IMAGE  EVALUATSON 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


■^'  ^,V  4b, 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


1 2.5 
M    12.2 


m 


I' 
i 


2.0 


IIW 

U    ill  1.6 


V] 


Vl 


v: 


V 


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PhotDgraphic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  IVIicroreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibiiographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


D 


D 


D 
D 
D 
D 

D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommag^e 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurde  et/ou  pelliculde 


□    Cover  title  missing/ 
Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

I      I    Coloured  maps/ 


D 


Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  init  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustiations  en  couleur 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serr6e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  int^rieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
il  S3  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajout^es 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  film6es. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppl6mentaires: 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
urte  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mithode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu6s  ci-dessous. 


□    Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

□    Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagies 

□    Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  pelliculdes 


i/ 


D 
0 


Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  d6color6es,  tachet^es  ou  piqu6es 


I      I    Pages  detached/ 


Pages  d^tachdes 

Showthroughy 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Qualitd  indgale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  materit 
Comprend  du  matdriel  suppldmentaire 


r^l    Showthrough/ 

I      I    Quality  of  print  varies/ 

I      I    Includes  supplementary  material/ 


Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilm&J  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Lee  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  film^es  d  nouveau  de  fapon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  ftem  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film6  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu6  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

y 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


ilaire 
IS  details 
ques  du 
nt  modifier 
(iger  une 
le  fiimage 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanlts 
to  the  generosity  of: 

National  Library  of  Canada 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  iceeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


L'exemplaire  film6  fut  reproduit  grdce  d  la 
g6n6rosit6  de: 

Bibiiothdque  nationaie  du  Canada 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  ia  nettetd  de  l'exemplaire  filmd,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
fiimage. 


d/ 
iu6es 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  ia  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimde  sont  fiim6s  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  ia 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  ie  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmds  en  commen^ant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  ^^>  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED "),  or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboies  suivants  apparaitra  sur  ia 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  ^*>  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  ie 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 


aire 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
fUmds  d  des  taux  de  r6duction  diffdrents. 
L(.<(.^q>je  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  ciich6,  il  est  fiimi  d  partir 
de  Tangle  sup6rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  k  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  ndcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mdthode. 


by  errata 
nc)  J  to 

lent 

une  pelure, 

faqon  d 


1 

2 

3 

32X 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

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aNADA 


NATIONAL  LIBRARY 
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ARCTIC  ADVENTURE 

BY      SEA      ANi:>       LAND 


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ELTPHA    KENT    KANE. 
Tlie  American    Arctic    Discoverer 


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ARCTIC  ADVENTURE 


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BY  SEA  AND  LAND 


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IN     S  K  A  K  C  H     OF 


SIR  JOHN   FRANKLIN. 


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K  1)  I  T  E  D     BY 

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■^TVTTH    :ma.i>s   .A,jsrx:»    iL3L.xJSTR,-A.rrioisrs. 


BOSTON: 

PHILLIPS,    SAMPSON    &    COMPANY. 

LONDOIi  :   SAMPSON  LOW,  SON  &  CO. 

U  DCCC  LVII. 


i-- 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  Eii!,'hteen  Hundred  and  Fifty- 
Seven,  by  EpES  Sargent,  in  tiio  Cleric's  OlBce  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United 
States  for  the  District  of  Massachusetts. 


8t<7«ot7p«d    hj 
HOBART    k    ROBUINS, 

RBW  KfQLAKD  VTPI  AMD  IITKBk  fTTPB  FO0NDKIIY, 
BOBTOM. 


PREFACE. 


and  Fifty- 
he  United 


The  interest  in  the  history  of  Arctic  adventure 
created  by  the  various  expeditions  in  search  of  Sir 
John  FrankHn,  has  been  wonderfully  increased,  of 
late,  by  the  deeply  interesting  narrative  of  Dr.  Kane. 
Presented  to  the  public  in  two  elegant  volumes,  and 
embellished  with  some  three  hundred  engravings 
and  wood-cuts,  conveying  new  and  striking  illustra- 
tions tf  the  characteristics  of  Arctic  scenery,  this 
work  is  at  once  an  honor  to  the  American  press  and 
to  the  much-lamented  author,  who  exhibited  the 
rare  union  of  those  Cassar-like  gifts  which  make 
both  the  successful  man  of  action  and  the  skilful 
historian.  To  Messrs.  Childs  &  Peterson,  of  Phila- 
delphia, the  liberal  publishers,  we  are  indebted  for 
the  wood-cuts  which  illustrate  that  chapter  in  the 
present  work  devoted  to  Kane's  expedition. 

No  one,  we  believe,  can  lay  down  Dr.  Kane's 
book,  after  perusal,  without  a  strong  desire  to  know 
something  more  of  Arctic  adventure  —  something 
of  the  preliminary  parts  of  a  history,  of  which  his 
volumes  form  the  fascinating  sequel.  It  has  cer- 
tainly been  our  fortune  to  hear  this  desire  expressed 
by  many,  and  we  have  prepared  the  present  work 
to  meet  an  actual  demand.  To  the  narratives  of 
Ross,  Parry,  Franklin,  Beechey,  Back,  and  other 
explorers  —  to  Sir  John  Barrow's  abstract  of  Arctic 


VI 


PREFACE. 


voyages — to  the  different  publications  on  Arctic 
subjects  of  the  Messrs.  Chambers,  of  Edinburgh,  and 
of  Nelson  &  Sons,  of  London  —  to  the  British  quar- 
terly reviews,  magazines,  and  journals  —  we  have 
been  largely  indebted  ;  in  many  instances  adopting, 
without  alteration,  the  language  in  which  events 
are  narrated.  Still,  with  all  our  obligations,  no 
small  amount  of  originfl  labor  and  research  has  been 
found  necessary,  in  order  to  render  our  narrative 
clear  and  complete. 

It  would  be  unjust  if  we  did  not  mention,  in  this 
connection,  our  indebtedness  to  Lieutenant  Sherard 
Osborn,  the  latest  Arctic  historian,  who,  in  his 
account  of  M'Clure's  expedition,  and  of  the  discovery 
of  a  north-west  passage,  has  given  us  the  record  of 
achievements  the  magnitude  of  which  has  been 
hardly  appreciated  as  yet.  The  world  looked  for 
the  denouement  of  a  personal  tragedy ;  and  turuF, 
with  comparative  indifference,  from  the  solution  of 
the  great  geographical  problem  of  the  last  three 
centuries. 


>    :;» 


TABLE  I  E  CONTENTS. 


.1  .■<:*. 


i 


CHAPTER    I.  pAcs 

THE  ARCTIC  OCEAN. — THE  NORTHMEN. — THE  CABOTS. — THE  CORTE- 
REAL9.  —  SIR  HUGH  WILLOUGHBV.  —  FROBISHEU.  —  SIR  HUMPHRET 
'lILBRnr.  —  DAVIS.  —  BARENTZ. — HUDSON.  —  BAFFIN 11 

CHAPTER    II.  '       #' 

RUSSIAN      EXPLORATIONS.    —   DESHNEFF.  —  LAPTEFF.   —   BEHBING.  — 

8CHALAR0FF.  —  VON  WRANGELL, 44 

CHAPTERIII.  "" 

BEARNE    —  PHIPPS.  —  COOK.  —  MACKENZIE.  —  SIR   JOHN  ROSS'S  FIRST 

VOYAGE.  —  BUCHAN    AND   FRANKLIN, 60 

'"'  CHAPTER    IV.  '  '        '^      ' 

•PAilRY'S   FIRST   VOYAGE, 81 

CHAPTER    V. 

franklin's   FIRST   LAND  EXPEDITION, 07 

CHAPTER    VI. 

parry's    SECOND   VOYAGE.  —  PARRY'S   THIRD   VOYAGE, 109 

CHAPTER   VII. 

LYON's    voyage.  —  BEECHEY'S    VOYAGE.  —  FRANKLIN'S    SECOND    LAND 

EXPEDITION, 127 

CHAPTER    VIII. 

SCORESBY.  —  CLAVERINQ.  —  PARRY's    POLAR -VOYAGE,   . 140 

CHAPTER    IX. 
sir  JOHN  Ross's  second  voyage, 160 


Vm  TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 

A  P  T  E  R   X .  PAOB 

back's  LAWD  expedition.  -  ACK'S  TOYAaF  IW  THE  TERROR.  — 
DRARU    AND   HIMPSON 181 

CHAPTER    XI. 

BAE's  PIRST    LAVD  EXPED'.TION.  —  sin  JOHN  FRANKLIW'S  LAST  VOYAGE,    211 

'  CHAPTER    XII. 

EXPEDITIONS    SENT   IN  SEARCH   OF  FRANKLIN.  —  KELLETT   AND  MOORE. 

—  RICHARDSON   AND  RAE.  —  SIR   J.   C.    ROSS, 22U 

CHAPTERXIII. 

OPINIONS   AS   TO   THE   FATE  OF  FRANKLIN.  —  EXPEDITIONS  SENT  OUT  IN 

1860. MEKTINO     IN     THE     ARCTIC     SEAS.  THE     PRINCE     ALBERT'S 

VOYAGE. — TRACES   OF   FRANKLIN.  —  AUSTIN'S   SQUADRON,    ....    250 

CHAPTER    XIV.  ., 

FURTHER    PARTICULARS    OF    THE    EXPEDITIONS.  —  SIR  JOHN    ROSS.  — 

PENNY. GRINNELL    EXPEDITION, 285 

CHAPTER    XV.  I    < 

KENNEDY'S  VOYAGE  IX  THE  PRINCE  ALBERT.  —  RAE'S  JOURNEY  IN 

1851, 314 

CHAPTER    XVI. 

DEPARTURE  OP  BELCHER's  EXPEDITION.  —  INGLEFIELD's  VOYAGE.  — 
THREE  MORE  EXPEDITIONS  FITTED  OUT.  —  m'cLURe's  VOYAGE.  — 
DISCOVERY   OF    THE   NORTH-WEST  PASSAGE, 340 

CHAPTER    XVII. 

THE   RESOLUTE   AND   INTREPID.  —  m'cLURE's   ADVENTURES   CONTINUED. 

—  VOYAGE   OP    THE   PHfENIX, 386 

CHAPTER    XVIII. 

belcher's  squadron. — vessels  ABANDONED. — THE  Pn(ENIX  AND 
TALBOT.  —  COLLINSON.  —  RAE'S  DISCOVERIES.  —  ANDERSON'S  JOUR- 
NEY,      403 

CHAPTER    XIX. 

DR.    KANE'S    EXPEDITION, 424 

CHAPTER    XX. 

EARTSTEIN'S     VOYAGE.  —  THE     RESOLUTE     FOUND    BY    AN     AMERICAN 

WHALER.  —  HER  RESTORATION, 461 


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TECHNICAL  TERMS 


PECULIAR   TO  THE   NAVIGATION   AMONG   ICE. 


Bay-ice.  —  Ice  newly  formed  upon  the  surface  of  the  sea.  The  expres- 
sion is,  however,  applied  also  to  ice  a  foot  or  two  in  thickness. 

B^aET.  —  The  situation  of  a  ship  when  closely  surrounded  by  ice. 

BiGiiT.  —  An  indentation  in  a  floe  of  ice,  like  a  bay,  by  which  name 
it  is  sometimes  called. 

Blink.  —  A  peculiar  brightness  in  the  atmosphere,  often  assuming  an 
arch-like  form,  which  is  generally  perceptible  over  ice  or  land  cov- 
ered with  SHOW.  The  blink  of  land,  as  Avell  aa  that  over  large  quan- 
tities of  ice,  is  usually  of  a  yellowish  cast. 

Bore.  —  The  operation  of  "boring"  through  loose  ice  consists  in 
entering  it  under  a  press  of  sail,  and  forcing  the  ship  through  by 
separating  the  masses. 

Brash. — Ice  broken  up  into  small  fragments. 

Cache.  —  Literally  a  hiding-place.  The  places  of  deposit  of  provision 
in  Arctic  travel  are  so  called. 

Calf.  —  A  mass  of  ice  lying  under  a  floe  near  its  margin,  and,  when 
disengaged  from  that  position,  rising  with  violence  to  the  surface  of 
the  water.  —  See  Tongue. 

Crow's  Nest.  —  A  small  circular  house,  like  a  cask,  fixed  at  the  mast- 
head, in  which  the  look-out  man  sits,  either  to  guide  the  ship  through 
the  ice,  or  to  give  notice  of  whales. 

Dock.  —  In  a  floe  may  be  natural  or  artificial :  the  former  being  simply 
a  small  "  bight,"  in  which  a  ship  is  placed  to  secure  her  from  the 
danger  of  external  pressure  ;  and  the  latter,  a  square  space  cut  out 
with  saws  for  a  similar  purpose. 

Field.  —  A  sheet  of  ice  generally  of  great  thickness,  and  of  too  great 
extent  to  be  seen  over  from  a  ship's  masthead. 

Fiord.  —  An  abrupt  opening  in  the  coast-line  admitting  the  sea. 

Floe.  —  The  same  as  a  field,  except  that  its  extent  can  be  distinguished 
from  a  ship's  masthead.    A  "  bay-floe  "  is  a  floe  of  ice  newly  formed. 

Floe-piece.  —  An  expression  generally  applied  to  small  pieces  of  floes, 
not  more  than  a  furlong  square. 

Glacier.  —  A  mass  of  ice  derived  from  the  atmosphere,  sometimes 
abutting  on  the  sea. 

Hummock.  —  A  mass  of  ice  rising  to  a  considerable  height  above  the 


X 


TECHNICAL  TERMS. 


iC 


ii 


general  level  of  a  floe,  and  forming  a  part  of  it.  Hummocks  are 
originally  raised  by  the  pressure  of  floes  against  each  other. 

Ice-anchor.  —  A  hooli  or  grapnel  adapted  to  take  hold  upon  ice. 

Ice-belt.  —  A  continued  margin  of  ice,  which,  in  high  northern  lati- 
tudes, adheres  to  the  coast  above  the  ordinary  level  of  the  sea. 

Iceberg.  — A  large  floating  mass  of  ice  detached  from  a  glacier. 

Ice-foot. — The  Danish  name  of  the  limited  ice-belt  of  the  more 
southern  coast. 

Land-ice.  —  Ice  attached  to  the  land,  either  in  floes  or  in  heavy 
grounded  masses  lying  near  the  shore. 

Lane  of  Water.  —  A  narrow  channel  among  the  masses  of  ice,  through 
which  a  boat  or  ship  may  pass. 

Lead.  —  A  channel  through  the  ice.  A  ship  is  said  to  "  take  the  right 
lead  "  when  she  follows  a  channel  conducting  her  into  a  more  navi- 
gable sea,  and  vice  versa. 

Nipped.  —  The  situation  of  a  ship  when  forcibly  pressed  by  ice  on 
both  sides. 

Pack,  — A  large  body  of  ice,  consisting  of  separate  masses,  lying  close 
together,  and  whose  extent  cannot  be  seen. 

Pancake-ice.  — Newly-formed  ice,  assuming  the  peculiar  conformation 
of  numberless  patches  of  "  sludge,"  and  giving  the  surface  of  the 
sea  the  appearance  of  a  handsome  pavement. 

Patch  of  Ice.  — The  same  as  a  pack,  but  of  small  dimensions. 

Pemmican.  —  Meat  cured,  pulverized,  and  mixed  with  fat,  containing 
much  nutriment  in  a  small  compass. 

Sailing-ice.  — Ice  of  which  the  masses  are  so  much  separated  as  to 
allow  a  ship  to  sail  among  them. 

Sludge.  —  Ice  of  the  consistence  of  thick  honey,  offering  little  impedi- 
ment to  a  ship  while  in  this  state,  but  greatly  favoring  the  formation 
of  a  "bay-floe." 

Stream.  —  A  long  and  narrow,  but  generally  continuous,  collection  of 
loose  ice. 

Tongue.  —  A  mass  of  ice  projecting  under  water  from  an  iceberg  or 
floe,  and  generally  distinguishable  at  a  considerable  depth  of  smooth 
water.  It  differs  from  a  "  calf  "  in  being  fixed  to,  or  a  part  of,  the 
larger  body. 

Tracking.  —  Towing  along  a  margin  of  ice. 

Water-sky.  —  A  dark  appearance  in  the  sky,  indicating  "  clear  water  " 
in  that  direction,  and  forming  a  striking  contrast  with  the  *'  blink  " 
over  land  or  ice. 

YouNQ-iCE.  —  Nearly  the  same  as  "  bay-ice,"  but  generally  applied  to 
ice  more  recently  formed  than  the  latter. 


II 


■iTl* 


AECTIC    ADVENTURE. 


CHAPTER  I. 

ASPECTS   OF   THE  ARCTIC  REGIONS.  —  PHENOMENA.  —  THE  ARCTIC    OCEAN. — 

EARLIEST    EXPLORERS.  THE    NORTHMEN. THE  CABOTS. THE    CORTE- 

REALS.  —  SIR    HUGH  WILLOUGHBY.  —  FROBISHER.  —  SIR  HUMPHREY  aiL- 
BERT.  — DAVIS.  —  BARENTZ.  —  HUDSON. BAFFIN. 


The  varied  physical  aspect  of  the  globe  oflfers  as 
much  to  charm  or  awe  the  eye  of  man  as  to  minister 
to  his  comfort  and  well-being.  From  the  glowing  heat 
and  gorgeous  vegetation  of  the  torrid  zone,  we  move 
through  all  gradations  of  climate  and  feature,  to  the 
frigid  regions  of  either  pole,  where  perpetual  ice  and  a 
depressed  temperature  present  an  extraordinary  con- 
trast to  the  lands  of  the  sun :  from  intensest  heat  we 
pass  to  intensest  cold ;  from  the  sandy  deserts  of  the 
south  to  the  icy  deserts  of  the  north.  Yet  there  is  as 
much  in  the  frozen  zone  to  impress  and  elevate  the  mind 
of  the  beholder  as  in  the  countries  where  nature  dis- 
plays herself  in  rich  and  exuberant  loveliness. 

Beyond  the  seventieth  degree  of  latitude  not  a  tree 
meets  the  eye,  wearied  with  the  white  waste  of  snow ; 
forests,  woods,  even  shrubs,  have  disappeared,  and  given 
place  to  a  few  lichens  and  creeping  woody  plants,  which 
scantily  clothe  the  indurated  soil.  Still,  in  the  furthest 
north,  nature  claims  her  birthright  of  beauty ;  and  in 
the  brief  and  rapid  summer  she  brings  forth  numerous 


i 


A 


12 


ARCTIC  PHENOMENA. 


Howers  and  grasses  to  bloom  for  a  few  days,  until  again 
blasted  by  the  swiftly-recurring  winter. 

In  these  regions  certain  mysterious  phenomena  exhibit 
their  most  powerful  cfl'ects.  Here  is  the  point  of  attrac- 
tion of  the  compass  needle  ;  and  h*:^!"  tlie  dipping  nee- 
dle, which  lies  horizontal  at  the  equator,  points  straight 
downwards.  Slowly,  in  its  cycle  of  nearly  two  thou- 
sand years,  this  centre  or  pole  of  magnetic  attraction 
revolves  in  obedience  to  laws  as  yet  unknown.  Two 
degrees  further  toward  the  north  is  situated  the  pole 
of  cold  —  a  my^vorj  like  the  former  to  science,  but 
equally  inciting  to  curiosity.  If  induction  may  be 
trusted,  the  pole  of  the  earth  is  less  cold  than  the  lati- 
tudes fifteen  degrees  below  it. 

Round  the  shores  and  seas  of  the  arctic  regions  ice 
over  accumulates  :  a  circle  of  two  thousand  miles'  diam- 
eter is  occupied  by  frozen  fields  and  floes  of  vast  extent, 
or  piled  high  with  hugest  forms,  awful  yet  fantastic  as 
a  dreamer's  fancy.     Mountain  masses  — 

"  Whose  blocks  of  sapphire  seem  to  mortal  eye 
Hewn  from  cerulean  quarries  in  the  sky. 
With  glacier  battlements  that  crowd  the  spheres, 
The  slow  creation  of  six  thousand  ^ears. 
Amidst  immensity  they  tower  sublime,  ^ 

Winter's  eternal  palace,  built  by  Time." 

Here  the  months  are  divided  into  long  periods  of  day- 
light and  darkness  :  for  many  weeks  the  sun  sinks  not 
below  the  horizon  ;  for  three  dreary  months  he  appears 
not  above  it  — 

"  And  morning  comes,  but  comes  not  clad  in  light ; 
Uprisen  day  is  but  a  paler  night." 

But,  in  the  absence  of  the  great  luminary,  the  vivid 
coruscations  of  the  aurora  borealis  illuminate  the  wintry 
landscape,  streaming  across  the  skies  in  broad  sheets  of 


L 


THE  ARCTIC   OCEAN. 


1^ 


c 


light,  flashing  in  multi-colored  rays,  or  quivering  in 
faint  and  feathery  scintillations  —  a  light  that  takes 
away  the  irksoraenoss  of  gloom,  and  makes  the  long 
night  wondrous. 

The  desolate  grandeur  of  the  scene  is  in  many  parts 
increased  by  the  entire  absence  of  animated  nature  ;  in 
others  the  dearth  of  vegetation  is  compensated  by 
superabundance  of  animal  life.  Wrangell  tells  us  that 
"countless  herds  of  reindeer,  elks,  black  bears,  foxes, 
sables,  and  gray  squirrels,  fill  the  upland  forests  ;  stone 
foxes  and  wolves  roam  over  the  low  grounds.  Enor- 
mous flights  of  swans,  geese,  and  ducks,  arrive  in 
spring,  and  seek  deserts  where  they  may  moult  and  build 
their  nests  in  safety.  Eagles,  owls,  and  gulls,  pursue 
their  prey  along  the  sea-coast ;  ptarmigan  run  in  troops 
among  the  bushes  ;  little  snipes  are  busy  along  the 
brooks  and  in  the  morasses  ;  the  social  crows  seek  the 
neighborhood  of  men's  habitations  ;  and  when  the  sun 
shines  in  spring,  one  may  even  sometimes  hear  the 
cheerful  note  of  the  finch,  and  in  autumn  that  of  the 
thrush." 

"Tliere  is,"  as  observed  by  Lieutenant-Colonel  Sa- 
bine, "a  striking  resemblance  in  the  configuration  of 
the  northern  coasts  of  the  continents  of  Asia  and  Amer- 
ica for  several  hundred  miles  on  either  side  of  Behring's 
Strait ;  the  general  direction  of  the  coast  is  the  same  in 
both  continents,  the  latitude  is  nearly  the  same,  and 
each  has  its  attendant  group  of  islands  to  the  north  : 
the  Asiatic  continent,  those  usually  known  as  the  New 
Siberian  Islands  ;  and  the  American,  those  called  by 
Sir  Edward  Parry  the  North  Georgian  Group,  and  since 
fitly  named,  from  their  discoverer,  the  Parry  Islands. 
The  resemblance  includes  the  islands  also,  both  in  gen- 
eral character  and  latitude."      /-■  '  '      ^      - 

With  respect  to  the  Arctic  Ocean,  a  late  writer  ex- 
2 


14 


THE   NORTHMEN. 


plains  :  "  We  may  view  this  great  polar  sea  as  enclosed 
within  a  circle  whose  diameter  is  40°,  or  two  thousand 
four  hundred  geographical  miles,  and  circumference 
seven  thousand  two  hundred  miles.  On  the  Asiatic 
side  of  this  sea  are  Nova  Zembla  and  the  New  Siberian 
Islands,  each  extending  to  about  the  IGth  degree  of 
latitude.  On  the  European  and  American  sides  are 
Spitzbergen,  extending  to  about  80°,  and  a  part  of  Old 
Greenland,  whose  northern  extremity  is  yet  unknown. 
Facing  America  is  the  large  island  washed  by  Regent's 
Inlet,  Parry's  or  Melville's  Islands,  with  some  others,  in 
latitude  10°  to  76°,  and  beyond  these  nothing  is  known 
of  any  other  land  or  islands  ;  and  if  we  may  form  an 
opinion,  by  inspecting  the  general  chart  of  the  earth,  it 
would  be  that  no  islands  exist  which  could  in  any  shape 
obstruct  navigation."  It  is  to  these  regions,  and  the 
labors  of  which  they  have  been  the  scene,  that  we  have 
for  a  short  period  to  direct  our  attention. 

The  history  of  Arctic  explorations  properly  begins  at 
a  period  earlier  by  several  centuries  than  is  generally 
believed.  Careful  researches  promoted  and  carried  on 
of  late  years  by  the  Society  of  Northern  Antiquaries 
of  Copenhagen,  and  others  interested  in  the  subject, 
have  established  the  fact,  that  Newfoundland,  Green- 
land, and  several  parts  of  the  American  coast,  were 
visited  by  the  Scandinavians  —  the  Northmen  and  Sea- 
Kings  of  old  —  in  the  ninth  and  tenth  centuries.  While 
Alfred  was  engaged  in  expelling  the  Danes  from  Eng- 
land, and  bestowing  the  rudiments  of  civilization  on  his 
country,  and  Charles  the  Bald  was  defending  his  king- 
dom against  a  host  of  competitors,  the  daring  sea-rovers 
were  forming  settlements  in  Iceland. 

One  hundred  and  twenty-five  years  later,  a.  d.  1000, 
Leif  Erickson,  as  many  antiquarians  believe,  led  the 
way  to  the  westward,  and  landed  on  the  shores  of  Mas- 


THE   NORTHMEN. 


15 


sachusetts,  naming  the  country  Vinland,  from  the  wild 
vines  which  grew  in  the  woods.  These  adventurers 
made  their  way  also  to  a  high  northern  latitude,  and  set 
up  stones,  car\  ad  with  Runic  inscriptions,  with  the  date 
1135,  on  Women's  Islands  — in  latitude  12°  55'  — Baf- 
fin's Bay,  where  they  were  discovered  in  1824.  The 
colonists  on  the  eastern  coast  of  this  great  bay  made 
regular  trips  to  Lancaster  Sound  and  part  of  Barrow'L 
Strait,  in  pursuit  offish  "  more  than  six  centuries  before 
the  adventurous  voyage  of  Parry,"  and  carried  on  a 
trade  with  the  settlers  in  Markland,  as  Nova  Scotia  was 
then  called.  Their  numbers  must  have  been  considera- 
ble, for  in  Greenland  there  were  three  hundred  home- 
steads or  villages,  and  twenty  churches  and  convents. 
They  kept  up  intercourse  with  Europe  until  1406,  when 
it  was  interrupted  by  extraordinary  accumulations  of 
ice  upon  their  coasts ;  and  though  the  Danish  govern- 
ment has  made  repeated  attempts  to  ascertain  their  fate, 
it  still  remains  in  doubt  ;  the  supposition  is,  that  all 
have  perished  from  privation  or  violence  of  the  natives. 
Spitzbergen,  too,  contained  numerous  colonists  :  graves 
are  frequently  met  with  on  its  shores  ;  in  one  place  Cap- 
tain Buchan  saw  several  thousands,  the  corpses  of  some 
of  them  as  fresh  as  when  first  interred,  preserved  by 
the  rigor  of  the  climate. 

These  early  explorers  were  unable  to  take  full  advan- 
tage of  their  American  discoveries  ;  this  was  reserved 
for  a  later  period.  "  Intervening,"  observes  Humboldt, 
"between  two  different  stages  of  cultivation,  the 
fifteenth  century  forms  a  transition  epoch,  belonging  at 
once  to  the  middle  ages  and  to  the  commen  3ement  of 
modern  times.  It  is  the  epoch  of  the  greatest  discov- 
eries in  geographical  space,  comprising  almost  all  de- 
grees of  latitude,  and  almost  every  gradation  of  elevation 
of  the  earth's  surface.     To  the  inhabitants  of  Europe  it 


y 


ni 


16 


THE    CABOTS.  —  THE    CORTEREALS. 


doubled  t?ie  works  of  creation,  while  at  the  same  time 
it  offered  to  the  intollcct  now  and  poworiul  incitements 
to  the  improvement  of  the  natural  sciences  in  their 
physical  an  I  mathematical  departments." 

As  we  approach  the  period  liere  referred  to,  we  find  a 
new  spirit  at  work  ;  no  longer  the  boisterous  advr/itnrous- 
ness  of  the  Northmen,  but  an  earnest  spirit  of  enterprise. 
In  1380,  the  Zeni,  two  Venetian  navigators,  voyaged  into 
the  north,  ignorant  of  the  fact  that  the  Scajidinavians 
had  preceded  them  by  three  centuries,  and  brought  liomo 
accounts  of  the  countries  they  had  seen.  In  1497,  dur- 
ing the  reign  of  Henry  VII.,  Britisli  enterprise  was  first 
directed  to  a  region  in  wliich  it  has  been  subsequently 
developed  to  a  degree  without  example  ;  and  Cabot,  or 
Cabota,  the  vounger,  landed  at  Labrador  eighteen  months 
before  Columbus  saw  the  mainland  of  tropical  America. 
He  contemplated  also  a  voyage  to  the  pole,  and  sailed 
up  to  61^°  of  north  latitude.  It  was  thought  scarcely 
possible  that  the  newly-discovered  continent  stretched 
so  far  from  north  to  south  without  a  single  opening  to  the 
westward,  and  the  search  for  this  became  the  prime 
object  with  mercantile  adventurers,  who  hoped  to  find  a 
way  to  the  rich  and  gorgeous  countries  lying  beyond. 

In  the  year  1500,  Gaspar  Cortereal,  a  Portuguese, 
animated  with  the  desire  to  emulate  Columbus  in  mak- 
ing discoveries  in  the  western  world,  set  sail  for  that 
part  of  the  globe,  and  reached  the  latitude  of  50°  north, 
whence  he  appears  to  have  run  as  far  as  60°.  The 
account  given  of  his  voyage  is  very  vague.  After  en- 
trapping on  board  no  less  that  fifty-seven  of  the  natives 
of  the  western  continent,  there  can  be  very  little  doubt 
for  the  purpose  of  making  them  slaves,  he  returned  to 
Portugal,  carrying  them  away  with  him.  He  arrived  at 
Lisbon  on  the  8th  of  October,  1501.  He  sailed  again 
the  next  season  with  two  vessels,  when,  in  entering  a 


THE  CORTEREALS. 


w 


strait,  supposed  to  be  that  known  since  as  IIudKSon's, 
the  ships  were  separated  by  a  storm.  One  of  thorn 
returned  home  in  sal'oty,  but,  as  if  it  were  a  retribution 
for  his  kidnapping  the  unfortunate  aborigines  of  tiie 
country  on  his  previous  voyage,  neither  (jaspar  Corte- 
real  nor  his  crew  returned  again,  nor  could  the  slightest 
trace  of  their  fate  ever  be  discovered,  Caspar  Corte- 
real  had  a  brother  named  Miguel,  who  was  much  at- 
tached to  him,  and  full  of  the  same  spirit  of  enterprise  ; 
—  he  determined  to  set  out  in  search  of  Gaspar. 

In  the  early  part  of  the  spring  of  1502,  Miguel  sailed 
from  Lisbon  with  three  vessels.  On  reaching  the  nu- 
merous straits  and  islets  about  Hudson's  Ba;-  the  ships 
separated  with  the  intention  of  exploring  each  of  them 
a  particular  inlet.  This  was  an  impolitic  measure,  as 
their  union  would  have  enabled  them  to  give  each  other 
aid  in  case  of  distress,  or  to  bring  off  the  crew,  should 
either  of  them  chance  to  be  shipwrecked  on  any  of  the 
numerous  islands,  either  rock  or  ice,  which  abound  in 
that  dangerous  navigation.  The  result  was  an  unfortu- 
nate one.  Two  of  the  ships  met  at  the  point  of  rendez- 
vous, and  returned  home  in  safety.  The  third,  with 
Miguel  Cortereal  on  board,  shared  the  melancholy  fate 
of  the  navigators  of  whom  it  had  gone  from  Portugal 
expressly  to  get  tidings,  —  it  never  returned.  The 
place  where  it  perished,  whether  by  storm,  rock,  ice,  or 
famine,  was  never  known.  The  two  vessels  which  were 
so  fortunate  as  to  reach  Lisbon  reported  the  disaster, 
in  addition  to  that  which  had  been  previously  known. 
There  yet  remained  a  third  brother,  Vasco,  who  endeav- 
ored to  obtain  leave  of  the  king  to  set  out  and  try  to  dis- 
cover his  two  absent  brothers.  The  king  refused  him 
permission,  upon  the  ground  that  the  loss  of  two  out  of 
such  an  adventurous  family  was  much  greater  than  he 

could  afibi  I  to  sustain,  in  servants  so  enthusiastic  and 

2# 


IS 


SIR  HUGH  WILLOUGHBY  —  FROBISHER. 


noble-minded.  Thus  died  the  brothers  Cortereal ;  and 
this  is  all  that  is  known  of  their  fate  to  the  present  hour. 
Sir  Hugh  VVilloughby  was  sent  out  by  the  Muscovy 
Company  with  two  ships  to  find  a  north-east  passage 
"  to  Kathay  and  India  ;  "  and  pushed  liis  way  as  far  as 
Nova  Zembla,  from  whence,  being  stopped  by  ice,  he 
returned  to  a  lower  latitude,  and  in  September,  1553,  put 
in  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Arzina,  in  Lapland.  A  mel- 
ancholy interest  attended  this  event,  little  anticipated 
by  the  unfortunate  leader  when  he  wrote  in  his  journal 

—  "  Thus  remaining  in  this  haven  the  space  of  a  weeke, 
seeing  the  ycare  farre  spent,  and  also  very  evill  wether 

—  as  frost,  snowo,  and  haile,  as  though  it  had  beene  the 
deepe  of  winter,  wee  thought  it  best  to  winter  there. '* 
The  dreary  season  passed  away,  and  in  the  following* 
year  some  Russian  fishermen  found  Sir  Hugh  and  his 
crew  all  frozen  to  death.  The  other  vessel,  commanded 
by  Richard  Chancelor,  reached  Archangel,  and  opened 
the  way  for  commercial  intercourse  with  Russia. 

Next  in  importance  are  the  three  voyages  by  Fro- 
bisher,  in  1576-78.  He  discovered  the  entrance  to  Hud- 
son's Strait,  and  explored  tliat  still  known  as  Fro- 
bisher's,  but  failed  in  penetrating  to  the  westward. 
Great  hopes  were  excited  by  some  lumps  of  yellow  glis- 
tening ore  v/hich  he  brought  home,  and  in  his  later 
voyages  gold-mines  werp  not  less  to  be  searched  for 
than  the  north-west  passage.  The  study  of  natural 
phenomena  was  not,  however,  altogether  lost  sight  of, 
as  appears  by  a  passage  from  the  instructions  issued 
under  the  authority  of  Elizabeth  for  the  gallant  seaman's 
guidance.  "  Yf  yt  be  possible,"  so  runs  the  oflBcial 
document,  "  you  shall  leave  some  persons  to  winter  in 
the  straight,  giving  the  i  instructions  how  they  may 
observe  the  nature  of  the  ayre  and  state  of  the  coun- 
trie,  and  what  tyme  of  the  yeare  the  straight  is  most  free 


SIR   HUMPHREY   GILBERT. 


19 


IVom  yce  ;  with  who  you  shall  leave  •  suflRcient  prepara- 
tion of  victiialls  iind  weapons,  and  also  a  pynnas,  with 
a  carpenter,  and  tliyngs  nccessarie,  so  well  as  may  be." 

Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert's  expedition  to  colonize  New- 
foundland soon  followed.  This  naval  commander  was 
distinguished  for  his  intellectual  acquirements,  his 
courage,  and  bold  actions.  He  was  nc^arly  related  to 
Sir  Walter  Raleigh.  In  1518,  he  obtained  full  power 
from  Queen  Elizabeth  to  undertake  a  voyage  of  discov- 
ery on  the  continent  of  America,  and  to  settle  such 
parts  as  no  Christian  prince  or  his  subjects  could  claim 
from  previous  possession.  A  discourse,  written  by  him, 
and  creditable  to  his  talents,  upon  the  practicability  of 
a  north-west  passage,  is  extant  in  Ilakluyt. 

In  1583,  Sir  Humphrey  left  England,  on  his  second 
voyage,  with  five  ships,  sailing  out  of  Plymouth  Sound 
on  the  11th  of  Juno.  On  the  30th,  four  vessels 
were  in  sight  of  Newfoundland ;  one  of  the  ships,  com- 
manded by  Captain  Butler,  and  the  property  of  Sir 
Walter,  then  Mr.  Raleigh,  having  returned  home  on 
account  of  a  contagious  disorder  breaking  out  on  board. 
On  the  3d  of  August  they  landed  in  Newfoundland, 
and  took  possession  of  the  harbor  of  St.  John's,  in  the 
name  of  the  Queen  of  England.  A  discovery  was  made 
at  the  same  time  of  a  supposed  silver-mine,  by  a  Saxon 
miner,  brought  out  on  purpose  in  the  squadron.  The 
vessels  remaining  with  Sir  Humphrey  at  this  time  were 
the  Delight,  Golden  Hinde,  Swallow,  and  Squirrel.  The 
largest  vessel  was  but  one  hundred  and  twenty  tons, 
while  the  smallest  was  only  ten.  The  Swallow  was 
sent  home  with  the  sick.  Sir  Humphrey  then  embarked 
in  the  Squirrel,  of  ten  tons. 

Sir  Humphrey  left  the  harbor  of  St.  John's  on 
the  20th  of  August.  On  the  2tth,  he  was  in  lati- 
tude 44*',  with   fair    weather.     On   the  29th,  a  storm 


20 


SIR   irUMPHIvfiY   GILBERT. 


arose,  and  the  Delight,  tho  largest  vessel  of  the 
squadron,  was  lost.  Sixtcsen  only  made  their  escape  in 
the  boat.  The  lirst  appeaniiice  of  change  was  j.  denae 
fog,  which  enveloped  the  ships,  followed  by  a  gale  of 
wind,  south  by  east.  They  could  not  see  beyond  the 
head  of  the  vessel.  The  (jfolden  Jlinde,  all  of  a  sudden, 
got  entangled  among  rocks  and  shoals.  The  Delight 
beat  still  further  in  among  them.  Finding  the  sound- 
ings constantly  varied,  a  signal  was  made  to  the  Delight, 
by  the  Golden  Ilinde,  to  stand  out,  but  it  remained 
unnoticed.  She  sooa  afterwards  struck  on  a  ..uoal,  and 
her  stern  was  quickly  beat  to  pieces.  This  was  a  fatal 
blow  to  the  prospects  of  Sir  IIumi)lirey. 

The  Golden  Ilinde  and  Squirrel,  all  now  left  of  the 
five  ships  which  originally  set  sail  from  Plymouth,  stood 
east  by  south.  The  water  shoaled,  and  then  deepened 
from  four  to  seven  fathoms,  and  then  shoaled  to  four  or 
five  again,  with  a  very  high  sea.  M  the  time  the  De- 
light went  on  the  rocks,  her  boat  was  afloat  at  the 
stern,  it  having  fortunately  been  hoisted  out  tho  day 
before,  when  the  weather  was  fine,  to  ]»ick  up  some 
birds  which  had  been  shot.  Into  this  boat  a  part  of  the 
crew  were,  by  great  exertion,  enabled  to  get,  and  to 
pick  up  others.  The  captain  and  a  hundred  of  the  crew 
perished  with  the  ship  ;  and  besides  the  Saxon  before 
mentioned,  who  said  he  had  discovered  the  silver  ore,  a 
learned  man  from  Buda,  in  Hungary,  called  Budaeus  on 
board,  bui  whose  name  was  Stephen  Parmenius,  who 
had  written  a  Latin  poem  in  praise  of  Sir  Humphrey, 
and  had  gone  out  to  write  an  account  of  the  voyage, 
and  what  he  saw,  in  the  Latin  tongue,  was  among  the 
sufierers. 

The  bearing  of  Captain  Browne,  who  had  been  trans- 
ferred frori  the  Swallow  into  the  Delight,  was,  upon  this 
occasion,  of  the  most  heroic  character.     When  the  fate 


Sni   HUMl'IIREY    fJILBKKT. 


21 


of  tho  vessel  was  seen  to  bo  inevitable,  he  was  advised 
to  save  himself  by  tho  boat,  or,  at  least,  to  make  the 
attempt.  JIc  spurned  tho  counsel,  refusing"  to  set  the 
example  of  desertin*;  the  ship  and  abandoning  the  larger 
portion  of  the  crew,  who  could  have  no  hope  of  escape. 
Tie  continued  to  the  last  to  exhort  those  on  board  not 
to  give  way  to  despair  ;  and  firndy  upon  the  deck  of 
his  vessel  he  awaited,  with  magnanimous  resignation, 
the  termination  of  the  catastrophe.  He  could  not  endure 
the  apprehension  of  a  rei)roach  for  leaving  his  ship, 
even  when  hope  was  extinguished.  The  master,  named 
Richard  Clarke,  was  one  of  those  preserved  in  the  boat. 

During  two  days,  in  this  destitute  situation,  and 
without  provisions  of  any  kind,  they  drifted  before  the 
tempest.  It  was  feared  the  boat  could  not  live  much 
longer  in  such  a  sea  unless  lightened,  and  one  of  the 
party,  by  name  Ileadley,  proposed  that  lots  should  be 
drawn,  and  those  who  drew  the  four  shortest  of  the 
number  should  be  thrown  overboard.  Thus  a  better 
chance  would  be  afforded  to  the  survivors  of  keeping 
afloat  and  reachin<^  land.  The  master  nobly  answered, 
"No,  we  will  all  live  or  die  in  company!"  The  con- 
duct both  of  the  captain  and  master  of  this  vessel 
exhibited  tluit  striking  heroism  to  which  bravery  in  tho 
field  of  battle  is  but  secondary. 

The  third  and  fourth  day  passed  over  the  heads  of 
these  unfortunate  men  without  sustenance.  They  picked 
up  the  weed  borne  on  the  surface  of  the  foaming  waves 
around  them,  and  eagerly  devoured  it,  drinking  the 
sea-water.  Their  strength  was  rapidly  leaving  them, 
and  death,  in  its  most  fearful  form,  was  before  them. 
The  man  called  Headlcy,  and  another,  died  on  the  fifth 
day.  All  wished  it  would  please  God  to  take  them  out 
of  their  misery.  Since  they  had  left  the  ship,  the  sun 
had  been  but  once  visible.     All  the  nights  but  one  had 


22 


SIR  HUxMPHREY  GILBERT. 


been  starless,  so  that  the  darkness  augmented  their 
sufferings.  They  were  all,  except  the  master,  Richard 
Clarke,  praying  for  death.  On  the  sixth  day  after  the 
wreck,  Clarke,  calm  and  collected,  still  endeavored  to 
comfort  them  with  the  hope  of  soon  making  the  land. 
They  expressed  their  doubts  that  they  should  ever 
again  cast  their  eyes  on  the  welcome  shore.  He  told 
them  to  throw  him  overboard  if  they  did  not  make  land 
on  the  seventh  day  ;  and  this  rallied  their  spirits,  for 
they  seem  to  have  reposed  great  trust  in  his  skill  and 
knowledge. 

The  seventh  day  broke,  and  one  hour  before  noon 
they  got  a  sight  of  the  shore.  In  the  afternoon  they 
landed,  but  were  so  weak  that  it  was  with  difficulty 
they  could  assist  each  other  out  of  the  boat.  They  fell 
on  their  knees  and  thanked  God  for  their  deliverance. 
The  stronger  then  helped  the  more  feeble  to  a  brook, 
where  they  refreshed  themselves  with  the  water,  and 
quenched  their  intolerable  thirst.  They  gathered  and 
ate  of  some  berries  they  found  growing  wild  near  the 
spot. 

The  next  day,  Clarke  divided  them  into  parties  of 
three,  to  search  for  food  ;  being  to  rendezvous  together 
at  noon,  with  what  they  could  collect,  for  the  common 
stock.  They  were  fortunate  enough  to  find  a  great 
quantity  of  peas  growing  wild.  For  three  days  they 
lived  on  these  peas  and  on  berries,  and  at  night  sheltered 
themselves  in  a  hut,  rudely  constructed  of  the  boughs 
of  trees. 

They  had  preserved  their  boat,  and,  being  a  little 
recovered  from  their  former  feeble  state,  they  rowed 
along  the  shore,  with  the  design  of  making  the  Great 
Bay  of  Newfoundland,  which  was  then  annually  fre- 
quented by  Spaniards  engaged  in  the  whale  fishery. 
When   hungry,  they  landed  to  eat  berries   and   peas. 


SIR  HUMPHREY   GILBERT. 


23 


Tliey  had  not  proceeded  far  in  this  way,  when  a  Spanish 
ship  fell  in  with  them,  the  captain  of  which  proved  a 
kind  friend.  He  took  them  to  St.  Jean  de  Luz,  in  the 
Bay  of  Biscay  ;  and  when  the  Spaniards  came  on  board, 
told  them  they  were  poor  fishermen  cast  away  at  New- 
foundland. He  set  them  on  shore  in  the  night,  only 
ten  miles  from  the  French  frontiers,  which  they  reached 
before  day  broke,  and,  thus  having  escaped,  travelled 
to  England  through  France,  where  they  safely  arrived 
about  the  end  of  the  year  1583.  '       »** 

Their  history  having  thus  terminated,  it  will  be  proper 
to  go  back  to  the  Golden  Hinde  and  Squirrel.  The 
crews  of  these  ships,  dispirited  at  the  loss  of  the  best 
vessel  of  the  squadron,  still  continued  to  beat  about  in 
those  thick  fogs  which  are  so  common  on  the  shores  of 
Newfoundland.  The  crev/  of  the  Squirrel,  already  on 
short  allowance,  besought  Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert  to 
return  to  England.  The  crew  of  the  Golden  Hinde 
joined  in  the  same  request.  Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert, 
whose  enthusiasm  did  not  seem  abated  by  his  disasters, 
engaged  them  to  accompany  him  again  in  the  following 
spring.  On  the  31st  of  August  they  altered  their  course, 
during  a  fresh  breeze  and  high  sea,  and  directed  it  for 
their  native  land. 

Sir  Humphrey  bad  hurt  his  foot,  and,  on  the  2d 
of  September,  went  on  board  the  Golden  Hinde  to  get 
it  dressed  by  the  surgeon  of  that  ship.  He  repeated 
the  visit  to  partake  of  an  entertainment  with  the  captain, 
master,  and  crew.  He  spoke  of  his  disappointment  on 
losing  hifc'  papers  and  some  ore  which  the  Saxon  refiner 
had  procured  in  Newfoundland,  which  had  been  lost  in 
the  Delight.  The  Squirrel  was  overloaded,  having 
heavy  artillery  on  board,  and  things  on  deck  so  much 
above  her  tonnage,  that  her  situation  at  that  season  of 
the  year  was  considered  dangerous  by  those  on  board 


24 


DAVIS.  — BARENTZ. 


hi! 


the  Hinde.  They  advised  Sir  Humphrey  to  shift  into 
the  larger  vessel.  He  generously  replied  in  the  nega- 
tive. "I  will  not,"  said  he,  "now  desert  my  little 
vessel  and  crew,  after  we  have  encountered  so  many 
perils  and  storms  together."    •  -■       • 

The  Golden  Hinde  supplied  the  boat  of  the  Squirrel 
with  what  provisions  were  necessary,  and  Sir  Humphrey 
returned  in  it  to  that  ship.  They  were  then  about  three 
hundred  leagues  on  their  voyage  to  England.  A  vessel 
of  ten  tons,  laden  like  the  Squirrel,  was  too  small  to 
resist  the  waves  in  the  Atlantic,  On  the  9th  of 
September  she  foundered,  and  Sir  Humphrey  perished, 
when  they  were  in  the  latitude  of  England.  The  Squir- 
rel was  near  foundering  in  the  afternoon  of  the  same 
day  she  went  down  ;  at  which  time,  and  when  they 
were  in  imminent  danger.  Sir  Humphrey  was  seen  from 
the  Hinde,  sitting  in  the  stern  of  the  ship  with  a  book 
in  his  hand,  and  was  heard  to  call  out,  "  Courage,  ray 
lads  1  we  are  as  near  heaven  at  sea  as  on  land  !  "  It 
was  about  twelve  o'clock  at  night  when  the  ship  went 
down.    ''■;  _..-•-■  >  .    "  '       '.     .-  «  ■-  'i-'«  '  '-'■5 

The  three  voyages  by  Davis,  in  1585-88,  enlarged 
the  limits  of  research.  By  the  discovery  of  the  strait 
which  still  bears  his  name,  he  opened  the  way  to  Baffin's 
Bay  and  the  Polar  Sea  ;  he  also  surveyed  a  considerable 
extent  of  the  Greenland  coast.  Various  attempts  to 
find  a  passage  were  also  made  during  this  century  by 
Spaniards,  French,  Danes,  and  Dutch,  those  of  the  last- 
mentioned  nation  being  the  most  memorable.  To  avoid 
the  risk  of  a  voyage  to  India  across  the  ocean,  over 
which  Spain  claimed  the  supremacy,  they  sought  for  a 
shorter  passage  by  the  north-east. 

The  three  voyages  by  William  Barentz,  l«394-96, 
aiford  striking  examples  of  dangers  encountered,  and 
manful  perseverance  in  struggling  against  them.     He 


ij 


BARENTZ. 


25 


made  his  way  to  the  sea  between  Spitzbergen  and  Nova 
Zembla,  until,  to  quote  the  narrative  of  the  third  voyage, 
"  we  came  to  so  great  a  heape  of  ice  that  we  could  not 
sayle  through  it."     In  August  of  the  last-mentioned 
year,  the  vessel  was  embayed  by  an  unusual  drifting  of 
the  ice,  which,  crushing  around  them  with  a  violence 
that  "made  all  the  haire  of  our  heads  to  rise  upright 
with  feare,"   forced   them    "in   great    cold,   povertie, 
miserie,   and   griefe,  to   stay  all   that  winter."     Thoy 
exerted  themselves  to  the  utmost  to  avoid  so  terrible 
an  alternative  ;  but  on  the  11th  of  September,  as  is 
related,  "  we  saw  that  we  could  not  get  out  of  the  ice, 
but  rather  became  faster,  and  could  not  loose  our  ship, 
as  at  other  times  we  had  done,  as  also  that  it  began  to 
be  winter,  we   tooke   counsell  together  what  we  were 
best  to  doe,  according  to  the  time,  that  we  might  winter 
there,  and  attend  such  adventure  as  God  would  send 
us  ;  and  after  we  had   debated   upon   the   matter  (to 
keepe  and  defend  ourselves  both  from  the  colde  and 
wilde  beastes),  we  determined  to  build  a  house  upon 
the  land,  to  keepe  us  therein  as  well  as  woe  could,  and 
so  to  commit  ourselves  unto  the  tuition  of  God."    While 
casting  about  for  material  for  the  edifice,  to  their  great 
joy  they  discovered  a   quantity  of  drift  timber,  which 
they  regarded  rs  a  special  interposition  of  Providenc(i 
in  their  behalf,  and  "were  much  comforted,  being  in 
'  good  hope  that  God  would  show  us  some  further  favour  ; 
for  that  wood  served  us  not  onely  to  build  our  house,  but 
also  to  burne,  and  serve  us  all  the  winter  long ;  other- 
wise, without  all  doubt,  we  had  died  there  miserably 
with  extreme  cold."  ' 

Parties  were  thereupon  set  to  work  to  build  the  house, 
and  drag  their  stores  from  the  ship  on  hand-sleds,  in 
which  labors  they  were  grievously  interrupted  by  bears 
and  severity  of  the  weather.     If  any  one  held  a  nail 
8 


m 


BARENTZ. 


11 


l<  • 


ff:  ! 


between  his  lips,  the  skin  came  off  with  as  much  pain, 
on  taking  it  out  again,  as  though  the  iron  had  been  red- 
not ;  yet,  notwithstanding  the  cold,  there  was  open  sea 
for  many  weeks  an  "arrow-shot"  beyond  their  ship. 
The  dwelling,  slow  in  progress,  was  finished  by  the  end 
of  October,  and  thatched  with  sea-wrack,  the  more  effect- 
ually to  close  the  chinks  in  the  roof  and  walls,  and  "  we 
set  up  our  dyall,  and  made  the  clocke  strike."  On  the 
4th  of  November  "wee  saw  the  sunne  no  more,  for  it 
was  no  longer  above  the  horison  ;  then  our  chirurgion 
made  a  bath  (to  bathe  us  in)  of  a  wine-pipe,  wherein 
wee  entred  one  after  the  other,  and  it  did  us  much 
good,  and  was  a  great  meanes  of  our  health."  All  the 
spare  clothing  was  distributed,  regulations  established 
with  regard  to  diet,  and  duties  apportioned  ;  the  master 
and  pilot  being  exempted  from  cleaving  wood,  and  other 
rude  labors.  Traps  were  set  to  catch  foxes  for  food, 
and  cheerfulness  was  as  much  as  possible  promoted  ; 
but  at  times  they  were  snowed  up,  and  could  not  open 
their  door  for  many  days,  and  had  no  light  but  that  of 
their  fire  ;  they  were  tormented  with  smoke,  while  ice 
two  inches  thick  formed  in  their  sleeping-berths.  The 
clock  stopped  with  the  cold,  after  which  they  could 
only  reckon  time  by  "the  twelve-hour  glass." 

The  misery  they  endured  may  be  judged  of  by  the 
tone  of  some  of  the  entries  in  their  journal ;  such  suffer- 
ing was  but  too  frequent :  "It  was  foule  weather 
againe,  with  an  easterly  wind  and  extreame  cold,  almost 
not  to  bee  indured  ;  whereupon  wee  lookt  pittifuUy  one 
upon  the  other,  being  in  great  feare  that  if  the  extream- 
itie  of  the  cold  grew  to  bee  more  and  more,  wee  should 
all  dye  there  with  cold  ;  for  that  what  fire  soever  wee 
made  it  would  not  warme  us  ;  yea,  and  our  sacke,  which 
is  so  hot,  was  frozen  very  hard,  so  that  when  we  were 
every  man  to  have  his  part,  we  weic  forced  to  melt  it 


BARENTZ. 


^7 


in  the  fire,  which  we  shared  every  second  day  about 
halfe  a  pint  for  a  man,  wherewith  we  were  forced  to 
sustayne  ourselves  ;  and  at  other  times  we  dranke  water, 
which  agreed  not  well  with  the  cold,  and  we  needed  not 
to  coole  it  with  snow  or  ice ;  but  we  were  forced  to 
melt  it  out  of  the  snow." 

Linen  froze  in  an  instant  taken  out  of  warm  water. 
The  closeness  of  the  hut  nearly  suffocated  them  from 
the  smoke,  and  if  the  fire  became  low  the  walls  were 
soon  covered  with  thick  ice,  —  even  the  beds  were  lined 
with  it.  Except  when  employed  in  cookhig',  they  lay 
constantly  in  their  beds.  Oftentimes  they  heard  tre- 
mendous noises  like  thunder  break  the  fearful  stillness 
of  the  unbounded  frozen  waste  around  them  ;  it  seemed 
like  the  bursting  asunder  of  mountains,  and  the  dashing 
them  into  atoms.  This  sound  w^as  probably  caused  by 
the  ffacture  of  the  ice  at  sea.  They  knew  not  day 
from  night,  the  moon  shining  brightly.  On  the  tth  of 
December  they  went  on  board  their  ship  for  some  coals, 
and  made  up  a  good  fire  in  the  evening,  which  gave 
them  much  comfort.  They  had  a  narrow  escape,  how- 
ever, from  the  vapor ;  for,  closing  every  aperture  of 
the  hut  to  keep  in  the  heat  as  much  as  possible,  a  sea- 
man, who  was  indisposed,  first  complained  of  not  being 
able  to  bear  it,  and  then  they  were  all  attacked  with 
vertigo,  and  could  scarcely  stand,  until  the  door  was 
opened,  when  the  first  who  reached  it  fell  down  faint  on 
the  snow.  Gerard  de  Veer  recovered  the  fallen  man  by 
sprinkling  his  face  with  vinegar,  and  the  fresh  air  rush- 
ing in  restored  them  again.  A  glass  of  wine  was  then 
served  out  to  each  man  to  recover  him  completely. 

On  the  19th  of  December  they  comforted  them- 
selves that  half  the  time  of  the  sun's  absence  w^as  over. 
The  seamen's  shocb  were  now  frozen  so  hard  that  they 
could  not  be  worn,  and  they  made  themselves  slippers  of 


28 


BARENTZ. 


skins,  and  put  on  several  pairs  of  socks  together,  to  keep 
their  feet  in  heat.  The  ice  was  an  inch  thick  on  the  sides 
of  their  hut,  and  when  they  went  out  in  clear  weather 
their  clothes  became  white  with  frost  and  ice.  They 
increased  the  size  of  their  fire,  but  from  their  recent 
warning  kept  an  opening  for  the  smoke.  They  had 
used  all  the  wood  laid  up  in  their  hut  by  the  middle  of 
January,  and  they  were  obliged  to  shovel  away  the 
snow  on  the  outside  to  get  at  a  fresh  stock.  This  they 
found  a  task  of  great  diflficulty,  from  the  excessive 
rigor  of  the  climate.  A  party  also  proceeded  to  the 
ship,  but  found  her  frozen  up  as  before,  and  the  ice 
accumulated  within.  They  caught  a  fox  in  the  cabin, 
which  they  took  to  their  hut  and  ate. 

They  had  been  economical  of  their  wine,  but  they 
kept  Twelfth  night  with  savings  from  their  scanty  allow- 
ance, thus  making  as  merry  as  their  dismal  situation 
would  permit.  They  fancied  themselves  at  home  in 
Holland.  They  made  pancakes  with  meal  and  oil,  and, 
soaking  biscuit  in  their  wine,  drank  to  the  three  kings 
of  Cologne,  and  comforted  themselves  as  if  they  had 
been  at  a  "  great  feast."  They  drew  lots  who  should 
be  king  of  Nova  Zembla,  and  it  fell  to  the  gunner  to  be 
the  monarch  of  that  domain  of  cold  and  desolation.  In 
short,  they  made  themselves  as  happy  as  if  they  had 
been  in  their  own  houses  among  the  dykes  of  Holland. 
Thus  does  enjoyment,  even  in  the  most  adverse  times, 
come  to  the  very  portal  of  misery  at  the  mind's  bidding. 

They  had  stormy  weather  for  several  succeeding  days, 
till  about  the  15th  of  January,  during  which  they 
confined  themselves  to  their  hut.  They  heard  the  foxes 
running  over  their  heads,  but  could  not  catch  them, 
which  they  regretted,  as  their  provisions  were  beginning 
to  run  short.  The  intense  cold  absorbed  every  other 
sensation.     They  applied  hot  stones  to  their  feet  and 


BARENTZ. 


29 


to  keep 
he  sides 
weather 
They 
r  recent 
hey  had 
niddle  of 
way  the 
'his  they 
excessive 
d  to  the 
1  the  ice 
le  cabin, 

but  they 
ity  allow- 
situation 
,  home  in 
oil,  and, 
■ee  kings 
they  had 
o  should 
ner  to  be 
tion.     In 
hey  had 
[Holland. 
le  times, 
bidding". 
Ing  days, 
Ich   they 
Ihe  foxes 
Ih  them, 
Bginning 
l-y  other 
feet  and 


bodies  to  keep  them  warm  :  comforting  themselves,  that 
now  the  sun  was  about  returning  to  tliem,  with  a  little 
patience  he  would  warm  and  gladden  them  again  witli  his 
beams.  Even  sitting  before  their  fire,  their  backs  would 
become  white  with  frost,  while  their  stockings  would  be 
burned  before  they  could  feel  the  heat  to  their  feet. 

They  visited  their  ship  a  second  time,  and  found 
traces  of  bears  ;  and,  going  below,  discovered  the  ice  a 
foot  higher  in  the  hold  than  it  had  been  originally. 
They  had  little  hope  now  that  their  vessel  would  ever 
float  again. 

Gerard  de  Veer  and  Jacob  Heemskirk,  going  with  a 
third  person  to  the  sea-side  towards  the  south,  on  the 
24th  of  January,  the  day  being  clear,  saw  the  edge  of 
the  sun  above  the  horizon.  They  imparted  the  welqpme 
news  to  their  friends,  but  Barentz  was  incredulous,  as 
the  return  was  thought  too  early  by  fourteen  days. 
For  two  days  afterwards  they  had  no  opportunity  ot- 
vciifying  the  fact,  owing  to  the  weather  being  thick 
and  cloudy.  ,  .    : 

They  lost  one  of  their  number  on  the  26th ;  he  had 
long  been  ill ;  they  dug  a  grave  seven  feet  in  the  snow  ; 
and  then,  as  is  mournfully  recorded,  "after  that  we 
had  read  certaine  chapters  and  sung  some  psalmos, 
we  all  went  out  and  buried  the  man."  As  the  days 
lengthened,  the  light  enabled  them  to  take  exercise, 
though  the  weather  still  remained  as  severe  as  before. 
A.  slight  relaxation  of  cold  in  February  was  followed  in 
tha  next  month  by  cold  of  increased  rigor.  They  were 
totally  blocked  up  in  their  hut  by  snow  on  the  24th 
of  March. 

On  the  6th  of  April  they  attempted  to  shoot  a  bear 
which  approached  close  to  their  dwelling ;  but  their  guns 
missed  fire,  and  the  animal  came  down  the  steps  they 
had  cut  in  the  snow  directly  against  their  door.     The 

3* 


m. 


ao 


BAREN'IZ. 


captain,  frig-htoncd  and  confused,  could  not  fix  the  bar 
of  wood  which  usually  constituted  the  fastening,  but  they 
contrived  to  hold  the  door  home  so  fast  that  the  animal 
could  not  enter,  and  it  then  walked  away.  The  creature 
soon  returned  again,  roaring  around  the  hut,  to  the  great 
terror  of  the  inmates  ;  at  last  it  got  on  the  roof,  which 
they  feared  it  would  have  broken,  being  quite  furious. 
A  sail  hoisted  on  the  outside  of  the  hut  the  bear  tore 
to  pieces  in  his  anger.     No  other  injury  ensued. 

The  sea  began  to  open,  as  early  as  the  middle  of 
March,  to  within  seventy-five  paces  of  the  ship  ;  though 
a  new  frost  came  on,  and  increased  the  distance  to  five 
hundred  on  the  4th  of  May.  They  did  not  wait  to 
see  whether  their  vessel  might  again  be  serviceable. 
The|r  preferred  the  chance  of  going  in  their  boats,  and 
of  venturing  in  them  to  cross  a  sea  three  or  four  hundred 
leagues  rather  than  to  trust  an  uncertain  event. 

They  now  set  about  preparations  for  departure.  They 
repaired  their  two  boats,  and  had  good  hope  "  to  got 
out  of  that  wilde,  desart,  irkesome,  fearfull,  and  cold 
countrey."  On  the  13th  of  June  the  survivors, 
twelve  in  number,  left  the  desolate  shore,  after  a  stay  of 
ten  months.  Their  privations  and  exposures  in  small 
boats,  in  an  ice-encumbered  sea,  may  be  imagined. 
Three  of  them  perished,  worn  out  with  disease.  The 
indefatigable  Barentz  himself  at  last  succumbed.  They 
had  passed  Icy  Cape  two  days  before.  This  cape  is  a 
headland  in  Russian  America,  in  the  Arctic  Ocean,  in 
lat.  10°.  20'.  N.  ;  Ion.  161°.  46'.  W.  ;  it  is  the  furthest 
land  attained  by  Cook  in  1118. 

As  they  were  approaching  this  cape,  Barentz  asked 
if  they  had  yet  reached  it ;  and,  on  being  told  it  was  in 
sight,  requested  he  might  be  lifted  up  to  see  it  once 
more,  the  ruling  passion  of  this  adventurous  seaman 
being   strong  in    death.     About   nine   o'clock   on   the 


BARENTZ. 


31 


'#iki;.» 


morning  of  the  20th,  it  was  communicated  to  those 
who  were  in  the  launch  that  Chies  Andriz  was  near  his 
end,  he  being  in  the  other  boat.  Barentz  then  told  his 
companions  he  should  not  long  survive  Andriz.  lie 
was  at  the  moment  examining  a  chart  of  all  the  coun- 
tries and  objects  they  had  seen  on  their  voyage,  made 
by  Gerard  de  Veer.  No  one  suspected  that  what  he 
said  was  so  immediately  to  be  fulfilled.  Putting  tlie 
chart  on  one  side,  he  asked  De  Veer  to  give  him  some- 
thing to  drink.  Barentz  swallowed  what  '^na  given 
him,  and  found  himself  worse  immediately ;  his  eyes 
moved  rapidly  about  for  a  moment,  and  he  died  so  sud- 
denly, they  had  not  time  to  call  the  captain,  who  was  i'l 
the  other  boat.  Andriz  expired  at  nearly  the  same 
moment.  The  death  of  Barentz  was  a  severe  blow  to 
his  companions.  Upon  his  experience  and  knowledge 
in  navigation  they  relied  for  their  safety  in  the  future 
conduct  of  their  navigation  during  a  perilous  voyage  in 
boats,  they  hardly  knew  whither. 

They  struggled  on,  however,  manfully  overcoming 
the  perils  that  beset  them ;  and  in  September  reached 
the  coast  of  Lapland,  where  "  wee  saw  some  trees  on  the 
river  side,  which  comforted  us  and  made  us  glad,  as  if 
wee  had  then  come  into  a  new  world ;  for,  in  all  the 
time  that  wee  had  been  out,  wee  had  not  seene  any 
trees."  On  the  eleventh  of  the  same  month,  after  a 
voyage  of  eleven  hundred  and  forty-three  miles,  these 
brave-hearted  men  set  up  their  boats  in  the  "  Merchants' 
house,"  at  Coola,  as  "  a  sign  and  token  of  their  deliv- 
erance ;  "  and,  embarking  on  board  a  Dutch  ship,  in  the 
course  of  a  few  weeks  ouce  more  set  foot  in  their  native 
country. 

The  survivors  appeared  before  the  people  of  Amster- 
dam in  the  dress  they  wore  at  Nova  Zembla.  Curiosity 
was  awakened  everywhere  respecting  them.     They  were 


32 


HUDSON. 


( 


taken  to  the  ministers  of  foreign  states,  at  the  Hague, 
to  relate  their  perils  and  give  an  account  of  the  frigid 
land,  which  none  of  the  southern  natives  had  visited 
before.  Their  treatment  on  their  arrival  home  must,  in 
those  dfiys,  have  been  an  ample  compensation  to  the 
survivors  for  their  past  sufferings. 

One  of  the  boldest  of  early  navigators,  and  one  of  the 
most  successful,  was  Ilcnry  Hudson,  the  discoverer  of 
the  immense  bay  which  will  carry  his  name  and  unfor- 
tunate end  to  the  latest  times.  This  intrepid  mariner 
lirst  uistinguished  himself  in  1607,  being  sent  out  by  the 
Muscovy  Company  on  a  voyage,  witli  instructions  to 
penetrate  directly  to  the  pole.  He  succeeded  in  push- 
ing north  as  far  as  latitude  81^**,  and  returned  home, 
after  coasting  Spitzbergen,  with  the  convioilon,  which 
modern  experience  has  not  impugned,  that  a  passage 
to  the  pole  was  completely  barred  out  by  the  ice  in  that 
direction.  In  1608,  he  again  set  sail,  to  decide  the 
practicability  of  a  north-east  passage,  then  a  favorite 
subject  of  debate  in  the  maritime  countries  of  Europe. 
He  saw  North  Cape  on  the  3d  of  June,  and  reached 
latitude  75",  when  he  got  among  the  ice.  He  now 
pushed  on  in  the  parallels  of  74*^  and  75*^  to  the  east- 
ward, and  made  the  coast  of  Nova  Zembla,  in  latitude 
72°  25';  but,  finding  a  further  course  impracticable,  he 
returned,  with  the  conviction  that  there  was  no  hope 
of  a  north-east  passage  ;  and  here  again  time  has  proved 
his  judgment  to  have  been  correct.  * 

The  Dutch  sent  him,  in  1609,  to  try  this  passage 
again  ;  but  he  gave  it  up,  after  passing  Wardhuys,  and, 
returning  past  North  Cape,  crossed  to  the  coast  of 
America,  where  he  searched  for  a  passage,  and  discov- 
ered the  bay  on  which  New  York  now  stands,  and  the 
magnificent  river  named  after  him,  the  Hudson.  On 
tlie  17th  of  April,  1610,  Hudson  set  sail  in  a  vessel 


HUDSON. 


88 


called  the  Discovery,  of  fifty-fivo  tons'  burthen,  fitted 
out  in  the  Thames,  at  the  expense  v^f  Sir  Joini 
Wolstenholrne,  Sir  Dudley  Digues,  and  other  distin- 
guished persons,  and  victualled  for  six  months.  The 
ship  touched  at  the  Orkney  and  Faro  Islands,  and,  on 
the  lltli  of  May,  the  crew  descried  the  south-eastern 
part  of  Iceland  ;  but  hearing  breakers,  and  a  fog  coming 
on,  they  cast  anchor.  They  now  found  themselves 
embayed.  Weigiiing  anchor,  they  next  proceeded 
northward  along  the  western  coast,  taking  a  quantity 
of  fine  fish  during  a  day's  calm,  which  overtook  them, 
A  south-east  wind  then  arose,  and  they  reached  the 
Vestmanna  Isles,  where  the  Danes  had  a  fort,  and  passed 
the  grand  and  awful  mountain  called  Snow  Fell,  which 
towers  to  a  vast  height  over  those  inhospitable  and 
desert  shores.  They  saw  Mount  Ilecla  in  the  blaze  of 
an  eruption,  surrounded  by  eternal  snows ;  and  fell  in 
soon  afterwards  with  a  mass  of  ice,  stretching  far  to  the 
westward  from  the  northern  part  of  the  island.  Here 
Hudson  entered  a  port  in  the  north-west  side,  where  they 
killed  a  quantity  of  wild  fowl.  They  sailed,  but  were 
again  obliged  to  put  back,  without  being  able  to  make 
the  harbor,  but  fortunately  fell  in  with  another  haven, 
where  they  found  some  hot  spmgs,  and  bathed.  The 
water  of  this  spring  was  so  hot  it  would  boil  a  fowl. 

On  the  first  of  June  they  set  sail  for  Greenland,  and 
soon  fancied  they  saw  land  to  the  westward,  but  it 
proved  to  be  fog.  It  was  Jiot  until  the  fourth  that 
Greenland  appeared  in  sight.  The  coast  was  lined  with 
a  vast  barrier  of  ice.  "  This  day,"  says  Hudson,  "wo 
saw  Greenland  perfectly,  over  the  ice ;  and  this  night 
the  sun  went  down  due  north,  and  rose  north-north-east ; 
so,  plying  the  fifth  day,  we  were  in  65^^." 

Their  course  lay  mostly  west  and  north-west,  till 
Cape  Desolation  appeared  on  the  western  side.     Here 


84 


HUDSON. 


thoy  Haw  a  [^roat  nuinbor  of  wlialos.  They  now  iiiado 
their  course  north-west,  the  wind  proventiiijj^  th(*m  IVonv 
sailing  more  to  the  north,  and  iiere  they  lirst  lell  in  with 
the  icebergs.  At  the  end  of  June  they  saw  an  is'  tud,  per- 
haps Resolution  Island.  Hudson  would  still  have  sailed 
more  to  the  north,  but  the  wind  would  not  permit ;  so  he 
went  south  of  the  island,  and  found  the  current  setting 
to  the  west.  They  entered  the  stream,  and  were  carried 
northwest,  until  they  fell  in  with  ice,  which  was  attached 
to. the  shore.  Hudson  then  kept  to  the  south  and  west 
again,  through  floating  ice,  upon  which  they  found 
numerous  seals.  They  now  had  a  clear  sea,  and  sailed 
until  they  again  encountered  icebergs,  and  floating 
pieces  of  ice,  keeping  north-west.  They  saw  a.  ice- 
berg overturn,  and  took  warning  from  it  not  to  approach 
too  near  them  in  future  ;  yet  they  wore  soon  obliged  to 
take  shelter  between  two  masses,  owing  to  a  storm,  and 
there  lie  snug. 

On  the  cessation  of  the  storm,  they  stood  on,  as  they 
found  it  clear  enough  of  ice  around  them  to  venture. 
Their  course  lay  with  the  ice,  and  whenever  it  permitted 
them  to  make  a  passage  they  moved  with  it,  though 
still  enclosed.  Hudson,  trying  to  get  clear  of  it  by 
steering  south,  found  the  more  he  tried  the  worse  they 
were  off,  until  he  could  go  no  further.  Here  the  navi- 
gator himself  was  in  despair,  thinking  they  should  never 
get  out  of  it.  He,  therefore,  brought  out  his  chart,  and 
showed  the  crew  that  they  had  sailed  a  hundred  leagues 
further  than  any  of  their  countrymen  had  gone  before, 
and  left  it  to  them  to  say  whether  they  should  proceed 
further  or  not.  Some  seem  to  have  replied  one  way 
and  some  another,  but  there  was  evidently  much  growl- 
ing and  discontent  among  them.  After  much  labor  they 
got  clear,  and  shaped  their  course  north  and  north-west 
It  is  most  probable  that  the  commander,  seeing  the  dis- 


HUDSON. 


86 


contont  of  a  part  of  his  crew,  ended  the  conference  and 
took  his  own  course.  He  still  seems  to  have  relied 
upon  his  own  resources  and  courag(«,  and  to  have  con- 
tinued to  pursue  the  object  of  his  voyage,  sometimes 
environed  by  the  ice,  yet  often  in  a  clear  sea.  lie  found 
a  harbor  among  Kome  islands,  which  he  named  the  *'  Isles 
of  (fod's  Alui'cy."  Here  some  of  the  crew  went  on  shore. 
They  saw  a  bay  to  the  north,  with  a  large  iceberg 
aground,  whi(^h  afterwards  floated  away.  They  took  in 
drift-wood,  which  they  found  cast  up  on  the  shore. 

After  a  good  deal  of  sailing  to  the  south  and  north- 
west, and  west,  and  then  south,  as  the  intricate  naviga- 
tion required,  they  stood  to  the  westward  in  a  clear, 
open  sea,  and  saw  three  headlands,  which  Hudson 
named  Prince  Henry's  Cape,  King  James's,  and  Queen 
Anne's.  They  now  proceeded  north  to  double  the  head- 
lands, until  they  saw  the  north  shore,  on  which  Hudson 
put  about  until  he  made  the  south  land  again,  but  very 
much  to  the  west  of  what  he  expected,  owing  to  a 
strong  current,  which  arose,  no  doubt,  from  the  set-in 
of  the  tide  to  the  great  bay  which  bears  his  name.  They 
now  saw  a  hill  on  the  south  shuic,  which  they  named 
Mount  Charles  ;  and  soon  after  a  cape,  which  was  tailed 
Cape  Salisbury.  Still  proceeding  along  the  south  shore, 
they  came  to  an  island,  distant  from  the  mainland  abcut 
two  leagues,  one  point  of  which  they  named  Deepes 
Cape,  the  other  Wolstenholme's.  At  this  island  the 
boat  was  sent  on  shore  to  make  discoveries.  Those  in 
it  were  overtaken  by  a  storm,  but  they  succeeded  in 
landing  and  climbing  up  the  rocks,  when  they  came  to 
some  level  ground,  in  which  they  found  a  herd  of  deer, 
but  could  not  get  within  musket-shot  of  them.  On  this 
island  they  found  plenty  of  fowl,  and  some  excellent 
herbage,  also  sorrel  and  scun'^y  grass.  They  saw  some 
hollow  cells  of  stone,  in  which  they  found  a  quantity  of 


36 


HUDSON. 


fowls  hung  up  by  the  necks.  The  ship  now  fired  a  gun 
to  call  ofi'  the  people  who  had  landed,  for  a  fog  had  come 
on.  Upon  returning  on  board,  Hudson  would  not 
stay  to  refresh  on  the  island,  as  some  of  the  crew 
recommended,  bu  proceeded,  his  mind,  no  doubt,  con- 
templating tlie  discovery  of  the  great  sea  on  which  ho 
was  about  to  enter. 

At  this  time  it  was  that  the  discontent,  which  had  no 
doubt  been  increasing  on  board,  was  visited  by  an  ex- 
ercise of  the  commander's  authority.  Some  discussion, 
it  appears,  took  place  about  entering  i.  bay,  and  going 
out  of  it.  On  this  occasion,  Hudson  is  said  to  have 
revived  somr^  old  grudge,  and  to  have  displaced  one 
Juet  from  the  situation  of  mate,  and  degraded  the 
boatswain  for  words  which  had  been  spoken  some  time 
before,  making  Billet,  or  Bylot,  his  mate,  and  William 
Wilson  his  boatswain.  The  crew  thought  it  harsh  in 
Hudson  to  revive  this  old  affair.  They  were  obedient, 
however,  and  sailed  again  in  a  northerly  direction  until 
they  saw  land,  and  then  to  the  south,  and  so  on  from 
land  to  land,  on  the  opposite  side  the  straits.  On 
Michaelmas  day  they  entered  a  bay,  which  >''idson 
named  Michaelmas  Bay.  They  afterwards  stood  to  the 
north  until  they  came  into  shoal  water,  with  thick,  foggy 
weather.  They  were  now  obliged  to  anchor,  and  so 
remained  for  eight  days,  when,  the  wind  dropping, 
Hudson  insisted  on  heaving  the  anchor  up,  against  the 
opinions  of  those  on  board.  While  the  crew  were 
lifting  the  anchor,  a  sea  struck  the  ship,  and  knocked 
all  hands  from  the  capstan,  several  of  whom  were  mucli 
hurt.  They  lost  an  anchor,  and  would  have  lost  all  their 
cable,  had  not  the  carpenter  fortunately  been  by  with 
an  axe  and  cut  it. 

They  now  stood  to  the  south  and  south-west,  through 
a  sea  clear  of  obstructions,  but  changing  in  soundings 


HUDSON. 


37 


and  in  color.  After  sailing  further,  they  came  into 
shallow  water,  —  so  shallow  that  their  boat  could  not 
reach  the  shore,  which  they  saw  at  some  distance,  and 
to  which  they  were  obliged  to  wade.  There  they 
discovered  the  mark^s  of  a  man's  foot  in  the  snow,  and 
plenty  of  wood,  of  which  they  shipped  a  good  stock, 
and  returned  on  board.  Soon  after,  they  saw  a  ledge 
of  rocks,  upon  which  they  ran,  and  remained  fast  for 
twelve  hours,  but  at  length  got  off,  not  wholly  unin- 
jured. 

They  now  began  to  look  out  for  a  place  where  they 
might  winter.  The  nights  were  become  long  and  cold, 
while  the  snow  covered  all  the  country.  The  party 
sent  to  explore  were  at  first  unsuccessful,  but  on  the  1st 
of  November  they  found  a  place  where  they  might  haul 
their  vessel  aground.  By  the  tenth  day  they  were 
frozen  in,  and  began  to  look  at  their  stock  of  provisions, 
when  they  found  they  must  be  fed  upon  such  an  allow- 
ance as  would  hardly  keep  in  life,  or  last  them  to  the 
headlands,  where  fowls  might  be  captured  for  their 
supply.  Hudson  regulated  the  present  allowances  in 
the  best  way  he  could,  and  offered  a  reward  to  those 
who  added  to  the  general  stock,  by  killing  or  capturing 
anything  serviceable  for  food.  In  this  they  must  have 
had  success,  or  their  subsistence  from  April,  the  1*1  th, 
even  as  far  as  Christmas,  is  a  miracle,  upon  six  months' 
victualling. 

It  appears  that,  on  taking  up  their  winter  quarters,  it 
had  been  proposed  to  Hudson  to  erect  a  house  on  shore, 
which  he  would  not  hear  of  being  done  while  it  was 
practicable.  The  severe  northern  winter  had  set  in, 
when  he  altered  his  mind,  and  desired  the  carpenter  to 
put  it  in  hand.  The  latter  said  he  neither  could  nor 
would  set  about  it.  Hudson  pursued  to  strike  him, 
calling  him  names,  and  threatened  to  hang  him.     The 


as 


HUDSON. 


carpenter  made  his  rejoinder  by  telling  Hudson  he  knew 
his  duty,  —  that  he  was  no  house-carpenter.  Such,  at 
least,  is  the  story  of  Pricket,  one  of  those  who  came 
home  in  the  vessel ;  but  the  subsequent  noble  conduct 
of  the  carpenter,  in  refusing  to  desert  Hudson,  shows 
that  the  latter  must  have  stood  high  in  his  esteem  and 
affection,  notwithstanding  this  altercation.  The  house 
was  ultimately  built,  but  proved  to  be  of  no  use. 

The  winter  was  intensely  cold,  and  the  ship's  com- 
pany ill  provided  with  necessaries.  Their  sufferings 
v/ere  great,  and  most  of  them  were  lamed,  or  some  way 
injured.  They  eked  out  their  provisions  by  wild  fowl 
of  several  kinds,  having  taken  more  than  a  hundred 
dozen  of  "  white  partridges,"  as  they  styled  them. 
When  these  birds  left  in  the  spring,  they  had  swans, 
geese,  ducks,  and  teal.  When  these  had  gone  away, 
they  devoured  moss,  frogs,  and  buds.  One  of  the  crew 
having  brought  the  buds  of  a  treefvU  of  some  substance 
like  turpentine,  a  decoction  of  it  was  made  by  the  sur- 
geon for  drink,  and  much  ease  was  experienced  by 
applying  it  hot  to  their  frozen  limbs.  While  the  spring 
lasted,  about  the  time  the  ice  was  breaking  up,  the 
savages  visited  them,  and  they  traflScked  with  them, 
and  gave  the  crew  furs  in  exchange  for  knives,  looking- 
glasses,  and  buttons. 

Hudson  now  prepared  to  return  home.  He  delivered 
out  the  last  pound  of  bread  to  each  man,  jnst  as  tliey 
were  preparing  for  along  and  perilous  voyage,  without 
provisions  for  the  entire  crew  for  more  than  ten  days ; 
and  also  gave  what  Pricket  calls  a  "  bill  of  returne," 
that  if  ever  they  got  home  they  might  show  it,  —  and 
he  wept  as  he  gave  it  to  them.  Fourscore  small  fish, 
taken  just  afterwards,  were  a  seasonable  relief  to  them, 
though  but  little  towards  satisfying  their  hunger  beyond 
the  moment.    -.  ,  ..  ,   w,.^. 


HUDSON. 


39 


They  now  set  sail,  and  came  to  anchor  in  the  sea  of 
that  immense  bay,  in  which  the  discoverer,  having 
undergone  so  much  suffering  and  danger,  was  to  find 
liis  grave.  They  were  without  bread  ;  five  cheeses  only 
were  left,  and  these  were  equally  divided  by  Hudson 
among  his  men. 

But  a  report  calumnious  of  Iludson,  for  secreting 
bread,  was  now  spread  among  the  crew.  The  discon- 
tent which  had  been  for  some  time  excited  by  one  Green, 
a  worthless  fellow,  whom  Iludson  had  befriended,  broke 
out  into  open  mutiny  on  the  2l8t  of  June.  The 
ship's  company,  both  sick  and  well,  were  in  berths,  dis- 
persed generally  two  and  two  about  the  ship.  King, 
one  of  the  crew  who  was  supposed  to  be  friendly  to 
Hudson,  was  up,  and  in  the  morning  they  secured  him 
in  the  hold  by  fastening  down  the  hatches.  Green 
then  went  and  held  the  carpenter  in  conversation  to 
amuse  him,  while  two  of  the  crew,  keeping  just 
before  Iludson,  and  one,  named  Wilson,  behind  him, 
bound  his  hands.  He  asked  what  they  were  about, 
and  they  told  him  he  should  know  when  he  was  in  the 
shallop.  Another  mutineer,  Juet,  went  down  to  King 
in  the  hold,  who  kept  him  at  bay,  being  armed  with 
his  sword.  lie  came  upon  deck  to  Hudson,  whom  lie 
found  with  his  hands  tied.  Hudson  was  heard  to  call 
to  the  carpenter,  and  tell  him  he  was  bound.  Two  of 
the  devoted  party,  who  were  sick,  told  the  muti- 
neers their  knavery  would  be  punished.  They  paid  no 
attention ;  the  shallop  was  hauled  up  to  the  side 
of  the  vessel,  and  the  sick  and  lame  were  made  to  get 
into  it. 

The  carpenter,  whom  they  had  agreed  to  retain  in  the 
vessel,  asked  them  if  they  would  not  be  hanged  when 
they  reached  England,  and  boldly  refused  to  remain 
with  them,  preferring  to  share  the  fate  of  Hudson  and 


1 


40 


HUDSON. 


II 


the  sick  men.  He  demanded  his  chest,  which  was 
given  him,  and  put  into  the  boat.  The  names  of  the 
persons  put  out  of  the  ship  were  Henry  Hudson,  John 
Hudson,  Arnold  Lodlo,  Sydrack  Faner,  Phillip  Staife, 
Thomas  Wodehouse,  Adam  Moore,  Henry  King,  and 
Michael  Bate.  The  carpenter  contrived  to  get  a  musket, 
powder  and  shot,  some  pikes,  an  iron  pot,  some  meal, 
and  a  few  other  necessaries.  The  crew  then  ait  the 
boat  off  the  ship,  loosened  the  topsails,  and  stood  out 
to  sea,  steering  to  the  eastward.  The  boat  in  which 
were  Hudson  and  his  companions  was  seen  no  more, 
nor  was  it  ever  heard  of  again. 

The  mutineers  now  stood  to  the  north-east,  contrary 
to  Juet's  opinion,  who  was  for  steering  north-west. 
The  i/cxt  day  they  bad  a  storm,  and  ran  into  ice,  where 
they  remained  fourteen  days,  locked  up.  In  that  storm 
the  intrepid  commander  and  his  forlorn  party  in  the  boat 
may  have  perished.  It  is  probable  they  either  died  of 
hunger  at  sea,  or  got  out  of  their  course,  and  perished 
in  the  storm.  They  might,  indeed,  have  been  starved 
on  the  shore,  or  killed  by  the  aborigines.  The  end  of 
IIudsoT^  is  a  melancholy  and  affecting  incident.  His 
talents,  courage,  and  perseverance,  rank  him  among  the 
first  navigators  of  any  age.  In  the  comparative  infancy 
of  discovery  in  the  northern  regions,  he  deserves  to 
take  the  lead.  Loft  in  the  great  bay  which  he  brought 
to  light,  the  victim  of  treachery,  he  has  not  been  for- 
gotten by  posterity,  like  many  of  his  contemporaries. 
The  mystery  of  his  fate  causes  his  name  to  be  pro- 
nounced, even  now,  with  pity,  while  his  skill  and 
courage  make  the  man  an  object  of  our  admiration, 
even  in  these  times,  when  a  northern  navigation  and 
wintering  are  not  considered  such  extraordinary  perils 
by  the  navigator. 

The  ship  continued  her  navigation  homeward.     Steer- 


HUDSON. 


41 


ing  north-east,  the  mutineers  shaped  their  course  for 
the  capes  or  headlands  where,  as  they  supposed,  the 
wild  fowl  frequented.  Landing  on  one  of  these,  in 
search  of  fowl,  they  fell  in  with  a  party  of  natives,  who 
behaved  bo  peaceably  that  the  Englishmen  soon  began 
to  traffic  with  them.  For  this  purpose,  they  ran  the 
ship  in  as  near  to  the  land  as  was  practicable,  and  sent 
a  boat  ashore  laden  with  goods.  Leaving  Pricket  in 
charge  of  the  boat,  the  rest  of  her  crew,  one  of  whom 
was  Green,  landed  and  mixed  among  the  natives,  show- 
ing them  looking-glasses  and  other  articles.  Suddenly, 
one  of  tr;k.  savages  came  into  the  boat  and  attacked 
Pricket  with  a  knife.  He  defended  himself,  and  a  deadly 
struggle  ensued,  in  which  the  savage  was  at  last  killed. 
In  the  mean  while,  those  of  the  crew  on  shore  were 
attacked.  Thomas  and  Wilson  were  stabbed  in  the 
bowels  ;  Perse  and  Green,  both  dreadfully  wounded, 
fell  together  into  the  boat ;  Motor  jumped  from  the 
rocks  into  the  sea,  and  swam  to  the  boat,  where,  hold- 
ing the  stern,  he  begged  to  be  taken  in  ;  Perse  beat  off 
the  savages  with  a  hatchet,  and  Green  with  a  frag- 
ment of  a  pike.  The  savages  then  took  their  bows  and 
arrows.  Green  was  killed  on  the  spot ;  Perse  received 
many  other  wounds,  aB  did  all  the  others,  but  he  pushed 
off  the  boat,  having  taken  in  Motor.  Perse  and  Motor 
then  rowed  away,  while  Pricket  received  a  bad  wound 
in  his  back  from  an  arrow,  as  the  boat  came  round. 
The  savages  ran  to  their  canoes,  but  did  not  pursue  the 
crew.  They  regained  the  ship,  but  three  died  of  their 
wounds.  There  were  now  scarcely  hands  enough  left 
to  work  the  ship  through  the  entrance  of  the  strait ; 
and  the  same  men  who  worked  the  ship  were  obliged 
to  go  in  the  boat  and  kill  fowls  for  subsistence  on  the 
passage  home.  With  great  labor,  they  killed  three 
hundred,  which  they  salted.  They  then  sailed  to  the 
4.# 


42 


BAFFIN. 


Cape  of  God's  Morcies,  and  thence  bent  their  course 
lor  Cape  Desolation,  in  Greenland.  But,  the  wind  coming 
on  adverse,  they  shaped  their  course  for  Ireland.  They 
suflfered,  during  the  passage,  the  most  dreadful  extremi- 
ties of  famine,  allowing  only  half  a  fowl  a  day  to  each 
man,  and  considering  it  a  luxury  to  have  it  fried  with 
candles,  of  which  a  weekly  distribution  was  made 
for  that  purpose.  Ivet,  now  the  sole  survivor  of  the 
ringleaders  in  the  atrocious  conspiracy,  sank  under 
these  privations.  The  last  fowl  v^as  in  the  steep-tub, 
and  the  men  were  become  nearly  desperate,  when  sud- 
denly it  pleased  God  to  give  them  sight  of  land,  which 
proved  to  be  the  north  of  Ireland.  They  complain  that, 
on  going  ashore  at  Berehaven,  they  did  not  receive  the 
sympathy  and  kindness  which  they  so  much  needed  ; 
nor  was  it  until  they  had  mortgaged  their  vessel  that 
they  obtained  the  means  of  proceeding  to  Plymouth. 

Strange  to  relate,  no  attempt  was  made  to  bring  the 
mutineers  to  trial ;  some  of  them,  indeed,  were  after- 
wards employed  in  making  further  explorations. 

Great  hopes  were  entertained  that  the  much-desired 
passage  would  be  found  leading  out  of  Hudson's  Bay  ; 
and  a  good  deal  of  controversy  on  the  question  arose, 
from  time  to  time,  among  contending  voyagers  and  their 
abettors.  Between  this  period  and  1616,  those  arms  of 
the  sea  known  as  Sir  Thomas  Rowe's  Welcome  and  Fox 
Channel  were  discovered  ;  and  in  the  year  just  men- 
tioned Baffin  sailed  into  and  explored  the  vast  bay, 
eight  hundred  miles  long,  and  three  hundred  wide, 
named  after  him.  For  a  long  time  his  report  of  its 
great  length  was  disbelieved,  but  later  researches  have 
confirmed  the  accuracy  of  his  statements  ;  even  the 
latitudes  laid  down  by  him  are  almost  identical  with 
those  recently  determined,  with  all  the  advantage  of 
superior  instruments.     Among   other  openings,  BaflSn 


BAFFIN. 


43 


saw  Lancaster  Sound,  and,  had  ho  explored  it,  Parry's 
discoveries  would  have  been  anticipated  by  two  hundred 
years,  as  they  had  been  to  some  extent  by  the  long- 
forgotten  Northmen.  The  opinion,  however,  at  that 
time,  and,  indeed,  until  within  the  past  fifty  years, 
was,  that  no  practicable  opening  to  the  Polar  Sea 
existed,  except  that  at  Bchring's  Strait.  From  this 
period  to  about  the  middle  of  last  century,  the  outlets 
to  the  west  of  Hudson's  Bay  were  the  points  to  which 
efibrt  was  directed  ;  and  truly  may  it  be  said,  that  these 
earlier  navigators  left  very  little  for  those  who  came 
later.  In  small  vessels,  varying  from  ten  to  fifty  tons' 
burthen,  they  accomplished  more  than  has  since  been 
effected  by  lavishly-equipped  expeditions. 


THE   WALRUS. 


CHAPTER  II. 

RUSSIAN  EXPLORATIONS. — DESHNEFF. — EXPEDITIONS  OF  1711.  —  FRUIT- 
LESS EFFORTS. —  LAPTEFF. — BEURING. — HIS  SHIPWRECK  AND  DEATH. 
—  FATE  OF  THE  SURVIVORS.  —  SCHALAROFF,  —  SLEDGE  EXPEDITION.  — 
ADMIRAL   VON    WBANGELL's  EXPEDITIONS. 

I 

Hitherto  wc  liave  been  chiefly  occupied  with  the 
explorations  on  and  around  Northern  America,  and  we 
now  come  to  the  history  of  those  along  the  continent 
of  Asia,  the  northern  limit  of  which  extends  over  a 
space  of  145°  of  longitude.  The  discovery  and  survey 
of  this  vast  region  is  due  entirely  to  the  Kussians  ;  for, 
although  other  nations  attempted  the  passage,  they 
penetrated  no  further  than  the  Karskoie  Sea  and  Cape 
North  on  the  east.  The  first  knowledge  of  the  coun- 
tries which  here  bound  the  polar  basin  was,  as  in  the 
case  of  the  other  continent,  derived  from  private  adven- 
turers, who  undertook  journeys  into  those  desolate 
regions  in  hopes  of  a  profitable  trade  in  furs,  skins,  and 
ivory.  Russian  traders,  sailing  from  the  White  Sea 
and  mouth  of  the  Petchora,  voyaged  as  far  as  Obi  and 
the  lennissei ;  their  vessels,  similar  to  those  of  early 
British  navigators,  were  little  better  than  shallops,  and 
it  is  impossible  not  to  be  struck  with  the  labors  of  those 
whose  chief  resource  was  indomitable  perseverance. 

The  first  endeavors  under  government  authority 
were  made  about  the  year  1600  ;  and  trading-stations 
were  establisiied  at  the  mouths  of  most  of  the  larger 


M 


RUSSIAN   EXPLORATIONS.  —  DESHNEFF. 


46 


(e 


Is 
Ir 


rivers,  with  the  double  view  of  exploration  and  of  sub- 
jecting the  natives  to  Russian  authority.  The  Lena, 
lana,  Indigirka,  Alaseia,  and  Kolyma,  were  discovered 
before  1640,  by  parties  sent  under  Cossack  leaders  to 
collect  tribute,  who  at  the  same  time  fell  in  with  the 
Tcliuktches,  and  hoard  their  reports  of  islands  lying 
olF  the  coast.  The  earliest  attempt  to  sail  to  eastward 
of  the  Kolyma  was  made  in  1616,  and  repeated  in  the 
two  following  years,  with  several  small  vessels,  all  of 
which  were  wrecked,  except  one  commanded  by  Desh- 
neff,  a  government  functionary,  whose  name  stands  high 
among  the  early  explorers.  Ilis  grand  object  was  to 
get  round  to  the  mouth  of  the  Anadyr,  on  the  eastern 
coast,  to  trade  for  sable-skins  ;  and  the  summer  of  1648 
proving  favorable  to  navigation  among  the  ice,  he  sailed 
along  the  shore,  and  through  the  strait  explored  by 
Behring  nearly  a  century  later,  and  founded  a  settle- 
ment at  the  place  to  which  he  was  bound  —  the  Anadyr 
river.  This  is  the  only  occasion  on  which  such  a  voyage 
has  been  made  ;  and  to  Deshneff  and  his  companions 
belongs  the  honor  of  having  been  the  first  and  sole 
nu,vigators  from  the  Arctic  Sea  to  the  Pacific,  and  of 
having  proved,  at  a  period  much  earlier  than  is  com- 
monly supposed,  that  the  American  and  Asiatic  conti- 
nents are  not  united. 

Other  expeditions  followed  ;  the  Bear  Islands  were 
seen  ;  and,  to  obtain  accurate  particulars  concerning 
them,  the  government  of  Siberia  sent  out  two  parties,  in 
1711,  who  crossed  the  ice  to  the  Likahoflf  Islands,  and 
saw  others  yet  further  to  the  north.  On  their  return  to 
the  mainland,  the  leaders  were  murdered  by  the  crews, 
who  feared  the  hardships  of  further  explorations.  Thus 
the  work  went  on  with  var^nn^;  fortune,  the  positions 
mostly  ill-defined,  as  must  be  the  case  in  the  absence  of 
accurate    instruments,   until    1134,    the    reign    of   the 


.  I 


t 


ikt 


46 


FUUITLESS   EFFORTS.  —  LAPTEFF.  —  BEIIRLNG. 


Empress  Anno,  when  the  RuHsian  adrr.  .ilty  fitted  out 
three  expeditions  "  to  obtain  a  correct  knowlodg'e  of 
the  northern  coast  of  Siberia  from  the  White  Sea  to 
Behrinf^'s  Strait ;  "  "  one,  consistinf^  of  two  vessels, 
was  to  sail  from  Archangel  eastward  to  the  mouth  of 
the  Obi ;  another,  from  the  Obi  to  the  lennissei.  The 
third  was  to  sail  from  the  Lena,  and  consisted  of  two 
vessels,  one  of  which  was  to  sail  westward  to  the  len- 
nissei, and  the  other  eastward,  past  the  Kolyma,  to 
Behring's  Strait."  • 

Insurmountable  impediments  to  navigation,  recall  of 
commanders,  wintering  in  the  rivers,  overland  journeys 
to  St.  Petersburg,  renewed  attempts,  scurvy,  and  ship- 
wreck, comprise  the  history  of  those  expeditions.  One 
of  the  mates,  in  observations  on  the  compass,  makes 
the  remark,  "  The  variation  of  the  needle  was  so  great, 
and  it  was  so  unsteady,  that  I  am  inclined  to  believe  the 
magnet  ceases  to  act  in  these  high  latitudes."  This 
fact  is  worthy  of  record,  as  bearing  on  phenomena 
which  have  subsequently  been  regarded  with  much 
attention.  But,  on  the  main  question,  the  Russian  ad- 
miralty refused  to  receive  the  reports  of  impossible 
navigation  ;  and,  in  1739,  sent  out  another  expedition, 
under  Lieut.  Lapteff,  who,  by  dint  of  perseverance  in 
four  successive  voyages,  did  at  last  pass  to  the  eastward 
of  the  Kolyma  ;  but  here  fields  of  \r.Qs,  extending  far  to 
the  north,  barred  his  further  progress. 

Next  in  order  come  the  voyages  by  Behring,  the 
explorer  of  the  strait  which  bears  his  name.  In  the 
year  1Y41  this  celebrated  navigator  set  sail  from  the 
harbor  of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul,  in  Kamtschatka,  in  two 
vessels,  from  which  he  had  named  the  port.  It  was  the 
4th  of  June  when  they  weighed  anchor,  and  on  the 
I2th  they  had  reached  latitude  46"  without  seeing  land. 
They  proceeded  as  high  as  50°  of  latitude  with  little 


BEIIUING. 


47 


h 

m 
ird 

to 


HuccesH.  Thoy  now  determined  to  steer  eastward, 
towards  the  American  continent.  On  the  20th  the  two 
siiips  were  separated  by  a  storm,  followed  by  hazy 
weather. 

On  the  18th  of  July,  Behring,  wliilo  waiting-  for  the 
other  vestiel,  discovered  the  American  continent,  in  lat- 
itude 58"  28',  and  in  50°  longitude,  from  Awatska.  Three 
days  before.  Captain  Tschirikov,  who  commanded  the 
second  vessel,  had  fallen  in  with  tlie  same  coast,  at  50° 
latitude,  and  50°  longitude,  from  Awatska.  lie  sent  on 
shore  his  long-boat  and  shallop  with  seventeen  men,  to 
observe  the  coast,  but  neither  the  one  nor  the  other 
ever  returned.  Upon  a  consultation,  in  consequence, 
held  on  board,  it  was  resolved  to  return  to  Kamtschatka. 
Behring,  in  the  mean  time,  endeavored  to  explore  the 
coast  he  first  saw,  and  to  take  in  water.  lie  set  sail  on 
the  2l8t  of  July,  determined  to  run  as  high  as  60°  north. 
He  found  it  impossible  to  advance  direct,  the  coast  con- 
stantly running  out  to  the  south-west,  lie  found  him- 
self in  a  labyrinth  of  islands  which  bordered  the  conti- 
nent, so  that  often,  when  he  thought  himself  clear,  he 
discovered  land  on  the  larboard  and  starboard  bow. 
He  was  then  obliged  to  drop  astern,  and  find  a  passage 
that  way,  encountering  great  difKculties  from  calms  and 
currents. 

On  the  3d  of  September,  while  still  among  those 
islands,  they  discovered  some  of  the  inhabitants,  by 
whom  they  were  well  received.  The  natives  presented 
whale's  flesh  to  the  Russians, — the  only  provision  they 
had  with  them,  — and  s  med  to  desire  they  would  regale 
themselves.  They  had  been  on  a  fishing  expedition,  as 
their  canoes  were  drawn  up  on  the  shore  ;  but  no  females 
or  habitations  were  seen,  their  dwellings  probably  being 
on  the  mainland.  They  were  unarmed.  After  some  other 
communications   with    the   natives,   and   encountering 


i 


48 


BEHRING. 


contrary  winds,  tlic  RusHians  wore  ovcrtukon  by  a  vio- 
lent storm,  wliicii  lasted  for  seventeen  days.  They 
found,  though  they  had  not  k(!pt  up  tlicir  sails,  that 
they  had  been  driven  back  to  48**  18'  of  latitude.  The 
scurvy  now  began  to  appear  among  them  ;  hardly  a  day 
passed  without  tlie  deatli  of  one  of  the  crew,  and  hands 
enougli,  in  health,  were  scarcely  left  to  niauceuvrc  the- 
vessel.  , 

A  return  to  Karatschatka  was  resolved  upon.  After 
discovering  and  naming  several  capes  and  islands,  they 
saw  two  which,  by  an  unfortunate  mistake?,  they  took 
for  the  two  first  of  the  Kourile  Isles.  By  this  they 
erred  in  their  reckoning.  They  in  vain  took  their  course 
to  the  west;  the  shore  of  Kamtschatka  remained  invisi- 
ble, and  there  was  soon  no  hope,  so  late  in  the  season, 
of  making  a  port  in  that  country.  The  crew,  notwith- 
standing their  sufferings  from  cold  and  continued  rain, 
attended  to  their  duty.  The  scurvy  had  already  so  far 
advanced  that  the  steersman  was  conducted  to  the  helm 
by  two  other  invalids,  who  happened  still  to  have  the 
use  of  their  legs,  by  supporting  him  under  the  arms. 
When  he  could  no  longer  steer,  from  suffering,  he  was 
succeeded  by  another  no  better  able  to  execute  the  labor 
than  himself.  Thus  did  the  miserable  crew  waste  away 
into  death.  They  were  obliged  to  carry  few  sails,  for 
th  y  had  not  hands  to  reef  them,  if  at  any  time  it 
should  be  required  ;  and  such  as  they  had  were  nearly 
worn  out,  so  that  the  slightest  storm  was  sufficient  to 
shiver  them  into  threads  ;  in  this  case  they  could  not 
be  replaced  from  the  stores,  for  want  of  sailors  able  to 
bend  new  ones.  The  rain  was  soon  succeeded  by  snow. 
The  nights  now  grew  longer  and  darker,  and  they  had 
now,  in  addition  to  their  former  precautions,  to  guard 
against  shipwreck.     The  fresh  water  on  board  was  rap- 


*  ■ 


BEHRINQ. 


48 


IS  rap- 


idly diminiBhing.     The  labor  of  tho  ship  became  too 
bard  for  the  few  who  were  still  able  to  be  al)()ut. 

For  Bomo  days  the  ship  had  remained  impasBive  in 
tho  water,  Ijiiig  as  the  wind  and  waves  drove  her.  On 
the  4th  of  November  they  again  endeavored  to  sail  to 
tho  westward,  without  knowing  in  what  latitude  they 
were,  or  at  what  distance  from  Kamtschatka ;  but  it 
was  the  only  point  on  which  a  sin^i^le  hope  of  their 
deliverance  remained.  The  joy  of  the  crew,  wlien  they 
'  ame  in  sight  of  land,  may  bo  conceived  ;  it  was  about 
eight  o'clock  in  the  morning.  They  attempted  to 
approach,  but  they  were  still  at  a  great  distance,  and 
could  oidy  see  tho  tops  of  mountains  covered  with 
snow.  As  they  drew  nearer,  night  came  upon  them. 
It  was  judged  best,  therefore,  to  keep  out  to  sea  until 
day  appeared,  that  they  might  not  be  exposed  to  ship- 
wreck in  the  dark.  In  the  morning  they  found  tho 
cordage  on  tho  starboard  side  of  the  vessel  had  given 
way.  They  could  not,  therefore,  manage  the  ship  much 
longer.  A  consultation  was  held.  It  was  agreed  that 
the  ship  was  no  longer  manageable,  that  the  water  was 
much  diminished,  and  the  Bickness  on  board  increased. 
The  humidity  had  been  succeeded  by  intense  cold,  of 
which  the  increase  was  now,  from  the  season,  lo  be 
expected,  aid  life  must  soon  become  insupportable.  It 
was,  therefore,  decided,  at  all  risks,  to  make  for  the 
land,  to  save  the^r  lives,  and,  perhaps,  their  ship. 

The  small  sails  were  alone  set,  from  the  weakness  of 
the  mast,  after  the  failure  of  the  cordage.  The  wind 
was  north  ;  the  depth  of  water  thirty-six  fathoms,  with 
a  bottom  of  sand ;  two  hours  after,  they  found  twelve 
fathoms.  They  now  contrived  to  get  overboard  an 
anchor,  and  run  it  out  three  quarters  of  a  cable's  length. 
At  six  the  cable  pcrted,  and  tremendous  waves  bore  the 
ship  upon  a  rock,  where  she  struck  twice,  yet,  in  a 
6 


! 

■4  ■ 


I 


50 


BEHRING. 


momont  after,  they  had  five  fathoms  of  water.  A  sec- 
ond anchor  was  tlirown  out,  and  tlie  cable  a<^ain  parted. 
They  liad  no  third  anclior  ready.  While  they  were  pre- 
paring- to  let  go  another,  a  huge  wave  lifted  the  vessel 
over  the  reel.  In  an  instant  she  lay  in  calm  water. 
The  anchor  was  put  out,  and  she  was  safely  moored  in 
four  fathoms  and  a  half  with  a  sandy  bottom,  and  only 
about  three  hundred  fathoms  from  the  shore.  The  next 
morning"  they  discovered  that,  by  a  good  providence, 
they  had  been  led  to  the  only  spot  where  it  was  pos- 
sible they  could  have  been  carried  over  the  ridge  of 
rocks,  and  that  twenty  fathoms'  distance  right  or  left 
of  the  place  high  rocks  rose  out  of  the  sea,  against 
which  they  must  have  perished  during  the  darkness  of 
the  night. 

Winter  was  now  come.  The  crew,  worn  down  with 
fatigue,  reposed  until  mid-day,  and  then  the  boat  was 
lowered.  On  the  6th  of  November,  the  second  in 
command,  Mr.  Waxall,  landed.  They  found  the  coun- 
try barren,  and  covered  with  snow.  A  clear  stream  of 
excellent  water,  not  yet  frozen,  ran  down  from  the 
mountains  to  the  shore.  No  trees,  or  even  shrubs, 
were  visible.  Firewood  might  be  obtained  from  what 
the  sea  had  drifted  on  the  land,  but  it  must  be  collected 
Irom  under  the  snow.  Hut  or  shelter  there  was  none  ; 
but  they  discovered  near  the  banks  of  a  torrent  some 
deep  hollows  in  the  sand,  which  they  prepared  to  clear 
out,  and  cover  over  with  the  ship's  sails,  so  as  to  make 
a  shelter,  until  they  could  construct  cabins  of  wood.  It 
was  accordingly  resolved  to  take  the  sick  on  shore  the 
next  day,  as  soon  as  places  were  prepared  for  them. 

On  the  8th  of  November  they  were  landed.  Some 
died  on  being  brought  up  into  the  air  from  below,  oth- 
ers in  the  boat,  and  some  upon  getting  ashore.  The 
bodies  of  the   dead  were  instantly  attacked  by   foxes.. 


:i  !l 


BEHRINO. 


61 


which  came  to  their  prey  without  fear,  as  if  they  had 
never  before  seen  man.  They  were  obliged  to  drive 
these  animals  away  from  the  corpses,  the  feet  and 
hands  of  which  were  mangled  before  they  could  bo 
interred.  On  the  9th  of  November  the  captain  was 
landed,  well  secured  from  the  atmosphere,  and  placed 
in  a  hollow  by  himself.  The  sick  were  all  brought  to 
the  land  in  a  day  or  two  more  ;  but  it  was  remarked 
that,  of  all  who  took  to  their  beds  in  the  ship,  not  one 
survived.  These  were  principally  such  as  were  indif- 
ferent to  existence,  or  feared  the  disease,  and  suc- 
cumbed to  it.  Their  disorder  commenced  with  extreme 
lassitude,  which  made  the  person  attacked  spiritless, 
and  indifferent  to  everything. .  A  sort  of  asthma  then 
came  on,  which  was  felt  on  the  smallest  movement  of 
the  body.  The  perscm  attacked  preferred  inactivity, 
and  would  rather  lie  down  and  die  than  move  about. 
Soon  after,  the  limbs  were  struck  with  severe  pains, 
the  legs  became  inflamed,  the  skin  yellow,  the  body 
covered  with  livid  marks,  the  teeth  loose,  and  the 
mouth  and  gams  bloody.  Some  of  those  attacked  were 
nervous,  and  terrified  at  the  slightest  sound  they  heard. 
Others  seemed  to  eat  heartily,  and  did  not  think  them- 
selves in  danger.  They  quitted  their  hammocks  when 
they  heard  the  order  for  going  on  shore,  dressed  them- 
selves, and  believed  they  should  quickly  be  well.  On 
leaving  the  interior  of  the  ship,  and  the  close,  corrupted 
air  of  the  hold,  and  coming  into  the  keen  atmosphere, 
they  speedily  expired.  '     • 

Those  survived  who  resisted  the  complaint  so  much 
as  not  to  take  to  their  beds,  —  who  kept  in  motion  on 
their  feet  as  much  as  possible,  especially  if  they  suc- 
ceeded, by  natural  lightness  of  temper,  in  driving  away 
melancholy  thoughts.  The  instances  of  successful  re- 
sistance to  the  disorder  v/ere  most  observed  in  the  offl- 


i 


52 


BEURING.— HIS  DEATH. 


cers  of  the  ship,  who  were  obliged  to  be  on  deck  to 
look  into  everything.  The  captain,  alone,  of  all  the 
officers,  died.  His  age  and  temperament  inclined  him 
to  inactivity.  lie  took  his  friends,  at  last,  for  his  ene- 
mies, and  some  could  not  come  into  his  sight,  on  that 
account,  towards  the  close  of  his  illness.  Two  of  the 
officers  took  the  disease  by  remaining  on  board  in  the 
bad  air  of  the  hold,  after  the  crew  had  quitted  the  ship, 
but  they  both  recovered. 

Bohring  died  on  the  8th  of  December,  IHl,  on 
the  island  which  now  bears  his  name.  He  had  a  great 
passion  for  voyages  and  travels  in  his  youth,  and  had 
seen  many  parts  of  the  world,  and  a  great  deal  of  ser- 
vice. In  a  previous  voyage  he  had  sailed  through  the 
strait  that  bears  his  name.  lie  had  served  under  Peter 
the  Groat;  was  made  lieutenant  in  ItOT,  and  captain- 
lieutenant  in  niO.  He  was  thus  a  seaman  from  his 
cradle,  and  was  chosen  to  command  the  expedition 
from  Kamtschatka  on  account  of  his  previous  services. 
He  left  his  name  a  record  to  the  end  of  time  in  the 
straits  that  separate  Asia  and  America.  His  death  was 
singular.  He  was  almost  buried  before  he  breathed  his 
last  sigh.  His  men  placed  him  in  the  most  commodi- 
ous spot,  the  day  after  the  tlisembarkation  of  the  sick 
commenced.  He  was  borne  with  great  care  into  a  sort 
of  tent,  upon  or  rather  in  the  sand,  and  as  well  secured 
as  possible.  Every  day  he  detached  the  loose  sand 
from  the  sides  of  the  place  where  he  lay,  so  that  he 
soon  covered  his  feet  with  it.  Those  who  attended  him 
cleared  it  away,  but  at  last  he  would  not  suffer  them  to 
doit  any  more.  He  showed  anger  if  it  were  attempted, 
and  by  degrees  had  so  accumulated  it  about  him  that 
when  he  died  he  was  half  covered.  They  buried  him 
near  the  spot ;  and  the  island  is  his  monument,  bearing 
his  name  in  the  charts  of  all  nations.  t**- 


FATE  OF  THE  SURVIVORS. 


68 


Not  long  after  the  death  of  the  captain,  the  Russians 
saw  their  vessel  wrecked  before  their  eyes.  It  was 
their  only  means  of  escape  from  the  dreary  spot  in. 
which  they  were  wintering.  A  storm  arose  on  the 
29th  of  December,  the  cable  snapped,  and  the  ship 
came  ashore  almost  close  to  where  the  Russians  were 
living.  In  the  morning  she  was  found  buried  eight 
or  ten  feet  in  sand,  and  completely  shattered.  The  sea 
had  spoiled  a  great  proportion  of  their  remaining  pro- 
visions.    This  was  a  fearful  loss  to  them. 

They  had  now  two  important  objects  to  attain.  The 
first  was  to  discover  on  what  part  of  the  world  they 
had  been  cast.  The  second,  to  find  the  means  of  sub- 
sistence. Parties  were  sent  out  to  explore.  After  an 
absence  of  three  days,  one  returned,  and  stated  that 
they  had  not  perceived  the  least  trace  of  men,  but  they 
had  seen  a  great  number  of  what  were  called  in  Kamt- 
schatka  sea-beavers.  They  had  also  seen  a  great  num- 
ber of  blue  and  white  foxes,  which  showed  no  signs  of 
fear  upon  observing  them.  Hence  they  concluded  that 
the  country  on  which  they  had  landed  was  not  inhab- 
ited. They  set  out  again  more  in  the  interior  of  the 
island,  with  the  design  to  cross  the  country  to  the 
opposite  side  from  that  where  they  had  come  on  shore. 
They  found  a  high  hill  three  or  four  leagues  from  the 
sea,  and,  ascending  it,  could  see  the  sea  both  to  the 
eastward  and  westward  of  them,  from  which  observa- 
tion they  had  no  doubt  they  were  upon  an  island.  They 
found  no  trees,  except  a  few  willows  on  the  sides  of  a 
rivulet. 

Having  thus  satisfied  themselves  they  were  upon  an 
-island,  they  proceeded  to  examine  what  stores  and  pro- 
visions had  been  left  them  that  tlioy  could  use.     They 
first  made  a  reserve  of  eight  hundred-weight  of  flour, 
which  was   to  serve  as  sea  stock  in  their  voyage  to 
5* 


iWraiSMMffff  mi— iiaa,  .v^a 


54 


PPvEf'ARATIONiS   FOR   RETURN. 


il 


III 
II 


Kamtschcatka,  after  which  they  regulated  tlie  daily 
allowance  of  each  person.  Although  thirty  of  the  crew 
had  died,  there  would  not  have  been  sufficient  for  their 
subsistence,  had  there  not  been  wild  animals  on  the 
island  to  eke  out  their  stores. 

The  flesh  of  the  beavers  was  hard  and  stringy.  They 
killed  a  great  number  for  their  skins,  of  which  they 
collected  nine  hundred.  The  surgeon  had  three  hun- 
dred to  his  own  share  when  they  embarked  from  the 
island  to  return  to  Siberia,  '    •''' 

In  the  month  of  March  no  more  beavers  were  seen, 
and  in  their  places  seals  made  their  appearance.  The 
llesh  of  these  animals  they  found  disagreeable.  They 
were  relieved  from  the  necessity  of  feeding  upon  them 
by  killing  sea-lions,  the  flesh  of  which  they  found  excel- 
lent. The  walrus,  or  sea-horse,  was  also  taken,  and 
served  them  for  food.  One  of  these,  of  eight  hundred- 
weight, was  sufficient  for  fifteen  days'  consumption. 
The  flesh  was  like  beef,  and  that  of  the  young  ones  not 
inferior  to  the  best  veal.  The  fat,  which  lined  the  flesh 
to  the  depth  of  three  or  four  inches,  very  much  resem- 
bled lai"d  ;  and  tlie  Russians  used  it  as  a  substitute  for 
Initter.  They  filled  several  hogsheads  with  the- flesh, 
which  they  salted,  as  part  of  their  provisions  for  their 
future  voyage, 

A  whale  came  on  shore  during  the  winter  near  their 
habitation,  and,  being  short  of  other  food  at  the  time, 
they  cut  out  the  blubber  in  square  masses,  and  boiled  it 
to  separate  the  oil,  which  they  ate.  On  the  commence- 
ment of  spring,  a  second  whale  was  cast  on  shore  in  the 
same  way,  and  then,  rejecting  the  stale  meat,  they  sup- 
plied themselves  with  that  which  was  more  fresli,. 

When  the  snow  melted  in  the  month  of  March,  1742, 
these  unfortunate  men  began  to  think  of  some  means  of 
return.      They  were  forty-five  in  number.      The  chief 


LAUNCH  (JF  TIIK  VESSKL. 


65 


officer,  Mr.  Waxall,  proposed  that  the  old  vessel  should 
be  pulled  to  pieces,  and  a  now  one  constructed,  of"  a  size 
to  carry  them  all.  This  plan  was  unanimously  adopted. 
It  was  now  the  beginning  of  April,  a  favorable  time  to 
commence  operations.  All  took  their  share  in  the  work, 
and  the  entire  month  was  employed  in  breaking  up  the 
wreck  to  obtain  materials  for  the  new  vessel. 
,  Three  Russian  carpenters  had  died  since  their  arrival 
on  the  island,  and  there  was  not  one  left.  A  Cossack 
of  Siberia,  named  Sawa  Slaradoubzov,  who  had  worked 
in  the  yard  at  Okhotsk,  offered  to  construct  the  vessel  if 
the  proportions  were  given  to  .lim.  He  succeeded  in 
laying  down  the  new  ship,  a  service  considered  of  such 
importance,  as  well  as  ingenuity,  tliat  he  was  rewarded, 
on  his  return,  by  being  elevated  to  th(}  rank  of  Sinboiar- 
skoy,  the  lowest  degree  of  nobility  in  Russia. 

On  the  Gth  of  May  they  began  to  construct  their 
new  ship.  It  was  forty  feet  long  by  thirteen  broad. 
At  the  beginning  of  June  it  was  ready  for  planking  up, 
the  frame  being  complete.  It  had  but  one  mast  and 
deck,  a  cabin  was  built  on  the  poop,  and  a  cooking 
place  in  the  forepart  of  the  vessel ;  it  had  four  places 
for  oars  on  each  side.  Many  things  were  still  want- 
ing, but  they  nevertheless  proceeded  to  calk  the  planks, 
that  the  ship  might  be  got  ready  for  sea.  They  took 
care  to  construct  a  boat  to  accompany  their  vessel,  capa- 
ble of  holding  nine  or  ten  persons. 

,,  They  launched  their  vessel  on  the  10th  of  August, 
and  called  it  the  St.  Peter,  after  the  ship  out  of  which 
she  had  been  built.  The  shot  and  iron-work  of  the  old 
vessel  they  employed  for  ballast  in  the  new.  The 
weather  was  fortunately  calm  for  six  days,  during  which 
time  they  got  in  the  mast  and  rudder,  bent  the  sails,  and 
took  in  their  provisions.  Their  vessel  drew  five  feet 
water.     All  having  embarked,  they  set  sail  on  the  IGth. 


56 


SCHALAROFP. 


'■is 


'I 


They  cleared  the  rocks  by  the  aid  of  their  oars,  and 
continued  to  row  until  they  were  about  three  leagues  at 
sea,  when  they  hoisted  their  sails  with  a  slight  breeze 
from  the  north.  They  found  that  their  ship  sailed  and 
worked  as  well  as  if  she  had  been  built  by  able  work- 
men. On  the  18th,  they  had  a  strong  gale  against  them 
from  the  south-west.  The  fear  of  a  storm  made  them 
fling  a  part  of  their  ballast  overboard.  On  the  25th, 
they  came  in  sight  of  Kamtschatka,  entered  the  Bay  of 
Awatska  the  next  day,  and  on  the  2tth  anchored  in 
the  port  of  Petropalanski. 

In  11Q0,  Schalaroff,  a  merchant  of  Yakutsk,  whose 
name  is  venerated  throughout  Siberia,  determined  on 
trying  whether  the  passage  attempted  by  Behring  could 
or  could  not  be  accomplished.  lie  persevered  during 
three  seasons,  in  defiance  of  mutiny  and  hardships  iimu- 
merable.  lie,  too,  was  wrecked  on  the  desolate  coast 
seventy  miles  east  of  Cape  Chclagskoi,  and,  with  all  his 
crew,  died  cf  starvation.  Three  years  later.  Sergeant 
Andrejeflf  conducted  a  sledge  expedition  across  the  ice  to 
the  Bear  Islands  ;  his  reports,  which  were  much  exagger- 
ated, led  shortly  afterwards  to  the  accurate  survey  of 
this  and  the  adjacent  country.  Cook's  exploration, 
of  which  we  shall  hereafter  speak,  led  to  another  expe- 
dition on  the  part  of  the  Russians,  which  sailed  from 
the  Kolyma  in  11S1,  under  Captain  Billings;  but  the 
attempts  made  to  navigate  either  to  the  east  or  the  west 
were  both  defeated.  Further  efforts  were  made  at  inter- 
vals during  the  first  quarter  of  the  present  century,  some 
of  them  mainly  to  search  for  the  northern  continent, 
whose  existence,  far  in  the  Polar  Sea,  had  so  often  been 
the  subject  of  rumor. 

Last  we  come  to  the  expeditions  commanded  by 
Lieutenant  Anjou  and  Admiral  von  Wrangell,  carried 
on  also  by  means  of  dogs  and  sledges,  from  the  year 


VON  WIlANaELL. 


57 


1820  to  1823;  the  latter  taking  the  mouth  of  the 
Kolyma  for  his  starting-point,  the  former  tlie  river 
lana.  These  undertakings  were  especially  promoted 
by  the  Emperor  Alexander,  and  were  conducted  with 
all  the  care  and  skill  warranted  by  an  advanced  state 
of  science  and  philosophy.  They  failed  but  in  one  par- 
ticular—  the  discovery  of  the  northern  continent,  llow 
diligently  and  perseveringly  this  was  searched  for, 
is  host  proved  by  the  narrative  of  perils  endured,  even 
to  the  risk  of  hfe,  in  the  arduous  enterprise.  Three 
times  was  the  frozen  surface  bf  the  sea  traversed  with- 
out leading  to  any  definite  result ;  on  the  fourth  jour- 
ney, in  March,  1823,  Von  Wrangell  reached  the  latitude 
of  10°  51',  longitude  175°  2Y  west  —  one  hundred  and 
five  wersts  in  a  direct  line  from  the  mainland.  Sound- 
ings gave  a  depth  of  twenty-two  and  a  half  fathoms  ;  the 
ice  here  was  thin  and  weak.  More  than  once  the  party 
had  only  been  saved  from  breaking  through  by  the  speed 
at  which  the  dogs  travelled  over  it.  In  the  distance  a 
screen  of  dense  blue  vapor  —  a  certain  indication  of  open 
water  —  was  visible,  on  which  the  admiral  remarks  : 

"  Notwithstanding  this  sure  token  of  the  impossibil- 
ity of  proceeding  much  further,  we  continued  to  go  due 
north  for  about  nine  wersts,  when  we  arrived  at  the 
edge  of  an  immense  break  in  the  ice,  extending  east  and 
west  further  than  the  eye  could  reach,  and  which  at  the 
narrowest  part  was  more  than  a  hundred  and  fifty  fath- 
oms across.  *  *  *  *  y^Tq  climbed  one  of  the  loftiest  ice- 
hills,  where  we  obtained  an  extensive  view  toAvards  the 
north,  and  whence  we  beheld  the  wide,  immeasurable 
ocean  spread  before  our  gaze.  It  was  a  fearful  and 
magnificent,  but  to  us  a  melancholy  spectacle.  Frag- 
ments of  ice  of  enormous  size  floated  on  the  surface  of 
the  agitated  ocean,  and  were  thrown  by  the  waves  with 
awful  violence  against  the  edge  of  the  ice-field  on  the 


h 


mmsmniKt^^wikm-mimm 


58 


VON   WIIANGELL. 


^j 


1 


P. 


i 


i 


further  side  of  tlie  channel  before  us.  The  collisions 
were  so  tr'jmondouH,  that  largo  masses  were  every 
insta!it  broken  away  :  and  it  was  evident  that  the  por- 
tion of  ice  wliich  still  divided  the  channel  from  tlio  open 
ocean  would  soon  be  completely  destroyed.  Had  we 
attempted  to  have  ferried  ourselves  across  upon  one  of 
the  floating  pieces  of  ice,  wc  should  not  have  lound  firm 
footing  upon  our  arrival.  Even  on  our  own  side,  fresh 
lanes  of  water  ''J  continually  forming,  and  extending 
in  every  directio  n  io  field  of  ice  behind  us.  With 
a  painful  feeling  o.  the  i.  ,  ossibility  of  overcoming  the 
obstacles  which  nature  opposed  to  us,  our  last  hope  van- 
ished of  discovering  the  land,  which  we  yet  believed  to 
exist."  '    1  ■  ■    '.,  -  ,■  %   .  .■ 

On  returning  from  this  extreme  limit  of  their  adven- 
tn.rous  journey,  the  party  were  placed  in  a  situation  of 
extreme  risk.  "  We  had  hardly  proceeded  ^ne  werst," 
writes  M.  von  Wrangell,  "when  we  found  ourselves  in 
a  fresh  labyrinth  of  lanes  of  water,  which  hemmed  us  in 
on  every  side.  As  all  the  floating  pieces  around  us 
were  smaller  than  the  one  on  which  we  stood,  which 
was  seventy-five  fathoms  across,  and  as  we  saw  many 
certain  indications  of  an  approaching  storm,  I  thought 
it  better  to  remain  on  the  larger  mass,  which  offered  us 
somewhat  more  security  ;  and  thus  we  waited  quietly 
whatever  Providence  should  decree.  Dark  clouds  now 
rose  from  the  west,  and  the  whole  atmosphere  became 
filled  with  a  damp  vapor.  A  strong  breeze  suddenly 
sprang  up  from  the  west,  and  increased  in  less  than 
half  an  hour  to  a  storm.  Every  moment  huge  masses 
of  ice  around  us  were  dashed  against  each  other,  and 
broken  into  a  thousand  fragments.  Our  little  party  re- 
mained fast  on  our  ice-island,  which  was  tossed  to  and 
fro  by  the  waves.  We  gazed  in  most  painful  inac- 
tivity on  the  wild  conflict  of  the  elements,  expecting 


tv 


M^ 
1 


VON    WUANGKLL. 


69 


every  moment  to  be  swallowed  up.  We  had  been  tlireo 
long  hours  in  this  position,  and  still  the  mass  ol"  ico 
beneath  us  held  together,  when  suddenly  it  was  caught 
by  the  storm,  and  hurled  agaiist  a  large  field  of  ice. 
The  crash  was  terrific,  and  the  mass  beneath  us  was 
shattered  into  fragments.  At  that  dreadful  moment, 
when  escape  seemed  impossible,  the  impulse  of  self- 
preservation  implanted  in  every  liviilg  being  saved  us. 
Instinctively  we  all  sprang  at  once  on  the  sledges,  and 
urged  the  dogs  to  their  full  speed.  They  flew  across 
the  yielding  frf.gments  to  the  field  on  which  we  had 
been  stranded,  and  safely  reached  a  part  of  i  jf  firmer 
character,  on  which  were  several  hummocks,  and  /here 
the  dogs  immediately  ceased  running,  consc.  jus,  appa- 
rently, that  the  danger  was  past.  We  were  saved :  wo 
joyfully  embraced  each  other,  and  united  in  tUanks  to 
God  for  our  preservation  from  such  immin    >t  peril." 

More  than  once  during  this  trip  the  party  heard  from 
the  Tchuktches  that  land  could  be  seen  far  away  in  the 
northern  seas.  The  part  of  the  coast  alluded  to  was 
Cape  Jakan,  which  the  explorers  afterwards  visited  ; 
but,  although  "  they  gazed  long  and  earnestly  on  the 
horizon,  in  hopes,  as  the  atmosphere  was  clear,  of  dis- 
cerning some  appearance  of  the  northern  land,"  they 
"could  see  nothing  of  it." 


)■-. 


''H  ■>>,!■' 


ICE-UAFT, 


ir. 


■;.''     I    -7 


...1/ 


CHAPTER  III. 


OFFER  OF  PAnLIAMENT.  —  HEAUNE's  JOtmNEY.  —  PHIPPS.  — NELSON.  — 
COOK.  —  MACKENZIE.  —  SIR  JOHN  BOSS's  FIRST  VOYAGE.  —  DUCIIAN  AND 
FRANKMN.  —  DANGKR0U8   SITUATION   OF   TUB  TRENT  AND   DOROTHEA. 


In  1H3  the  British  Parliament  offered  a  reward  of 
twenty  thousand  pounds  to  any  one  who  should  sail  to 
the  north  west  by  way  of  Hudson's  Strait,  which  passage, 
it  was  declared,  would  bo  "  of  great  benefit  and  advan- 
tage to  the  kingdom."  Between  1169-12  Mr.  Ilcarnc 
undertook  three  overland  journeys  across  the  territories 
of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  to  the  shores  of  the  Polar 
Sea.  He  failed  in  the  first  two  attempts ;  in  the  third 
he  succeeded  in  reaching  a  large  and  rapid  river,  —  the 
Coppermine,  — and  followed  it  down  nearly  to  its  mouth ; 
but,  as  there  is  reason  to  believe,  without  actually  view- 
ing the  sea.  The  proof  of  the  existence  of  the  river 
was  the  most  important  result  of  Mr.  Hearne's  labors  ; 
for  such  scientific  observations  as  ho  attempted  are 
loose  and  unsatisfactory. 

In  the  following  year  (ITTS),  in  consequence  of  com- 
munications made  to  the  Royal  Society  on  the  possi- 
bility of  reaching  the  North  Pole,  Captain  Phipps  (after- 
wards Lord  Mulgrave)  was  sent  out  with  two  vessels 
to  effect  this  interesting  object.  He  coasted  the  eastern 
shore  of  Spitzbergen  to  80°  48'  of  latitude,  and  was 
there  stopped  by  the  ice.  With  Phipps  on  this  expe- 
dition was  Nelson,  the  future  naval  hero  of  England, 
then  a  mere  boy.  Young  as  he  was,  he  was  on  one 
occasion  appointed  to  command  a  boat,  sent  out  to 


PIIIPPS. 


61 


explore  a  paasage  into  the  open  water.  It  was  the 
meaiiR  of  Havinjj^  another  boat  from  imminent  danjijcr. 
One  of  the  ofiicers  hud  wonnded  a  wah'ua.  As  no  othc 
animal  haw  so  human-like  an  expression  of  countenance, 
so  also  is  there  no  one  that  seems  to  possess  more  of 
the  passions  of  humanity.  The  wounded  animal  dived 
immediately,  and  brought  up  a  nundjer  of  its  compan- 
ions ;  and  tliey  all  joined  in  an  attack  on  the  boat. 
They  wrested  an  oar  from  one  of  the  men,  and  it  was 
with  the  utmost  diiliculty  that  the  crew  could  prevent 
them  from  staving  or  upsetting  her,  till  Nelson  came 
np  :  and  the  wah'usea,  finding-  their  enemies  thus  rein- 
forced, dispersed.  Young  Nelson  exposed  himself  in  a 
most  daring  manner. 

For  a  time  Captain  Phipps  was  so  surrounded  by  ice, 


that  ho  made  preparations  to  abandon  his  ships.     On  the 
tth  of  August  the  men  began  to  haul  the  boats  over 


6 


G2 


TOOK.  — MACK  TNZIR 


I''  < 


ttio  ice.  Hut  on  tlio  0th  tlio  ships  wore  moved  a  little 
throiijj^h  some  small  o()onings  ;  and  in  the  coiirHO  of  the 
day  they  got  past  the  boats,  aiul  took  them  on  board 
ti<^ain.  On  the  morrow  a  favorable  wind  H[)raiig'  up  ;  all 
sail  was  set,  and,  after  foreing  their  way  throug'h  much 
heavy  ice,  the  ships  cleared  it,  and  plained  the  open  sea. 
The  season  was  now  so  far  advanced  that  nothiiij^  more 
could  be  attempted,  and  the  expedition  returned  to 
England. 

In  1776  Cook  sailed  on  the  fatal  expedition  which  cost 
England  her  famous  navigator,  with  instructions  to  at- 
tempt the  passage  of  the  ley  Sea  from  Behring's  Strait 
to  Ballin's  Bay.  The  clause  of  the  act  abcjve  referred 
to,  wherein  Hudson's  Strait  was  exclusively  specilied, 
was  altered  to  include  "any  northern  passage"  for  ships  ; 
and  live  thousand  pounds  was  further  voted  to  any  one 
who  sliould  get  within  one  degree  of  the  pole.  Cook, 
with  all  his  perseverance,  could  not  penetrate  beyond  Icy 
Cape,  latitude  70°  45',  where  he  found  the  ice  stretch- 
ing in  a  compact  mass  across  to  the  opposite  continent, 
which  he  also  visited,  sailing  as  far  as  Cape  North,  on 
the  coast  of  Asia.  It  would  appear  that  expectations 
prevailed  of  the  enterprising  mariner's  success  ;  for  a 
vessel  was  sent  to  Baffin's  Bay  to  wait  for  him,  in 
1777,  in  charge  of  Lieutenant  Pickersgill. 

One  other  journey  within  this  century  remains  to  be 
noticed  —  that  by  Mackenzie,  under  sanction  of  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company,  with  objects  similar  to  those  of 
Hearne.  In  1789  he  left  Fort  Chipewyan,  crossed  Slave 
Lake,  and  descended  the  Mackenzie  River,  a  stream  of 
much  greater  magnitude  than  the  Coppermine,  to  an 
island  where  the  tide  rose  and  fell.  But,  as  in  the  case 
of  his  predecessor,  we  have  no  certainty  that  he  reached 
the  ocean.  Rivers,  however,  play  an  important  part  in 
Arctic  discovery  ;  and  it  was  something  gained  to  know 


ROSS    AND   PAKRY 


G3 


iliiit  tho  Hoa  coiild  1)0  roacVcd  l»y  their  moans.  We  may 
]wri'  ol)sorvo,  once  for  all,  tliat  those  land  oxpoditioriM, 
whose  jtritne  object  liaH  been  to  determine  the  northern 
eoast-Iiiie  of"  America,  are  not  to  be  eonlonnded  with 
the  attempts  to  discover  the  north-west  passage. 

The  result  of  tliese  diHconrafJCements  was  a  cessation 
of  naval  researches,  which  continued  for  many  years  ; 
but  at  length  a  chanjL!;(f  took  place,  as  sudden  and  inex- 
plicabhi  as  tlio  accumulation  of  ice  from  centuries  before 
which  cut  off  the  Danish  colonies  in  Greenland  from 
communication  witli  the  mother  country.     In  1816--lt, 
the   Oreenlaiid  whalers  reported  tho  sea  to  bo  clearer 
of  ice  than  at  any  former  time  within  their  ktiowlodge. 
This  fact  engaged  the  attention  of  the  British  Admiralty; 
and  the  Council  of  the  Royal  Society  were  consulted  as 
to  tho  prospects  of  renewed  operations  in  tho  Arctic 
regions.     Their  reply  was  favorable  ;   and  in   1818  two 
expeditions  were  litted  out —  tho  one  to  discover  the 
north-west  passage,  the  other  to  reach  the  pole.     Cap- 
tain (soon    Sir  John)  Ross   and   Lieut,  (soon   Sir  Ed- 
ward)  Parry,  in  tho  vessels  Isabella   and  Alexander, 
were  intrusted  with  the  former  of  these  objects.     They 
wore  especially  charged  to  examine  the  great  openings 
described  by  Baffin  as  existing  at  the  head  of  the  vast 
bay  which  ho  so  diligently  explored  ;  and,  in  carrying 
out  these  instructions,  the  commanders  found  full  reason 
to  applaud  the  care  and  perseverance  of  the  able  navi- 
gator, who  had  preceded  them  by  two  hundred  years. 
It  must  be  remembered  that  we  are  now  treating  of  a 
perio  ^  when  science  put  forward  its  imperative  claims, 
and  wiion,  as  at  present,  something  more  was  required 
than  a  meagre  chart  of  a  previously-unexplored  coast, 
and  graphic  accounts  of  new  countries  and  their  inhab- 
itants.    Astronomy,  geology,  meteorology,  magnetism, 
natural  history,  were  all  clamorous  for  new  facts,  or  for 


I 

1 


ROSS  AND  PARRY. 


Batibi'actory  tests  of  those  already  known  ;  .and  not  only 
men  of  science,  but  the  public  at  large,  looked  with  deep 
interest  to  the  results. 

The  open  state  of  the  sea  greatly  facilitated  the  pur- 
poses of  the  expedition.  On  the  18th  of  April  the  navi- 
gators sailed  down  the  Thames,  and  by  the  end  of  the 
month  were  oft'  the  Shetland  Islands.  On  the  2Yth  of 
May  they  came  in  view  of  Cape  Farewell,  round  which, 
as  usual,  were  floating  numerous  and  lofty  icebergs  of 
the  most  varied  forms  and  tints.  On  the  14th  of  June 
thoy  reached  the  Whale  Islands,  where  they  were 
informed  by  the  governor  of  the  Danish  settlement  that 
the  past  winter  had  been  uncommonly  severe  ;  that  the 
neighboring  bays  and  straits  had  been  all  frozen  two 
months  earlier  than  usual ;  and  that  some  of  the  channels 
northward  of  his  station  were  still  inaccessible,  owing 
to  the  ice.  On  the  llth  of  June,  in  the  neighborhood 
of  Waygat  Island,  an  impenetrable  barrier  obliged  the 
discoverers  to  stop  their  course,  making  thomselves 
fast  to  an  iceberg,  and  having  forty-five  whale-ships  in 
company.  Observations  made  ashore  proved  this  island 
to  be  misplaced  on  the  maps  by  no  less  than  five 
degrees  of  longitude.  On  the  Tth  of  August,  in  tlie 
same  latitude,  a  heavy  gale  sprang  up,  which,  driving 
the  ice  against  the  vessels,  made  a  display  of  its  terrible 
power.  Providentially,  when  instant  destruction  was 
expected,  the  mass  receded,  and  the  ships,  owing  to  the 
extraordinary  strength  of  their  construction,  escaped 
without  material  injury. 

Proceeding  along  a  high  mountainous  coast,  the 
expedition  came  to  a  tribe  of  P'sqiiimaux,  who,  of  all 
human  beings,  seemed  to  live  in  a  state  of  the  deepest 
seclusion.  They  had  never  before  seen  men  belonging 
to  the  civilized  world,  or  to  a  race  difTerent  from  their 
own.     The  first  party  whom  the  navigators  approached 


ROSS  AND  PARRY. 


G.'^ 


showed  every  sig'u  t)f  alarm,  dreading,  as  was  after- 
wards understood,  a  iatal  inlluence  from  the  mere  touch 
of  beings  whom  they  regarded  as  members  of  an  un- 
known species.  They  soon,  however,  acquired  greator 
confidence,  and  gave  the  usual  proof  of  it  by  making 
free  with  whatever  they  could  carry  away.  Following 
the  general  usage,  they  have  sledges  drawn  by  large  and 
powerful  teams  of  dogs ;  their  chase  is  chiefly  confined  to 
hares,  foxes  of  various  colors,  the  seal,  and  the  narwal. 
They  rejected  with  horror  the  proffered  luxuries  of  bis- 
cuit, sweetmeats,  or  spirits  ;  train-oil,  as  it  streamed 
from  various  species  of  fish,  alone  gratified  their  palate. 
Captain  Eoss,  swa7-cd  by  national  impressions,  gave  to 
this  district  the  na..iO  of  the  Arctic  Highlands. 

In  the  northern  part  of  this  coast  the  navigators  ob- 
served a  remarkable  phenomenon  —  a  range  of  cliffs, 
the  snowy  covering  of  which  had  exclianged  its  native 
white  for  a  tint  of  deep  crimson.  The  latest  observa- 
tions on  this  red  snow  have  established  the  vegetable 
origin  of  the  color. 

Having  now  passed  Cape  Dudley  Digges,  the  com- 
modore found  himself  among  those  spacious  sounds 
which  Baffin  had  named,  but  su  imperfectly  described. 
They  all  appeared  to  him,  however,  to  be  either  bays 
enclosed  by  htnd,  or  obstructed  by  impenetrable  barriers 
of  ice.  He  sailed  past  Wolstenholme  and  Whale 
Sounds  very  quickly,  without  approaching  even  their 
entrance,  concluding  them  to  be  blocked  up  with  ice, 
and  to  afibrd  no  hope  of  a  passage.  As  these  openings 
stretched  towards  the  north,  it  must  be  admitted  that 
they  could  not,  in  this  high  latitude,  be  considered  very 
favorable  as  to  the  ol)jcct  he  had  in  view.  He  came 
next  to  Sir  Thomas  Smith's  Sound,  which  Baffin  de- 
scribed as  the  most  spacious  in  the  whole  circuit  of 
these  coasts.    This  was  regarded  with  greater  attention  ; 

6* 


;     ROSS   AND    1>ARRY. 

but  Captain  Ross  satisfied  liimsclf  that  he  had  distinctly 
seen  it,  at  the  distan(;e  of  eighteen  h^agnes,  completely 
enclosed  by  land,  lie  soon  arrived  at  an  extensive 
bay,  which  had  hitherto  been  unobserved;  afterwards 
to  that  which  l>alliii  called  Alderman  Jones's  Sound  : 
but  iji  respect  to  both,  the  ice  at  their  entrance,  and  the 
apparent  boundary  of  high  land  in  the  interior,  led,  as 
in  the  other  instances,  to  an  unfavorable  conclusion. 

The  season  was  now  somewhat  advanced,  the  end  of 
August  approached,  the  sun  set  after  an  uninterrupted 
day  of  two  months  and  a  half,  and  a  thick  fog  rendered 
the  lengthening  nights  more  gloomy.  The  land,  seen 
at  some  distance,  consisted  of  very  high  and  steep  hills, 
presenting,  liowever,  some  spots  fit  for  liuman  habita- 
tion. An  opening  forty-five  miles  wide,  to  the  south- 
ward of  a  promontory  which  was  named  Cape  Charlotte, 
was  decided  against  on  the  usual  grounds.  On  the  30th 
of  August  the  expedition  came  to  a  most  magnificent 
iidet,  bordered  by  lofty  mountains  of  peculiar  grandeur, 
while  the  water,  being  clear,  and  free  from  ice,  pre- 
sented so  tempting  an  appearance,  that  it  was  impossi- 
ble to  refrain  from  entering*.  This  channel,  which  soon 
proved  to  bo  Lancaster  Sound,  was  ascended  for  thirty 
miles,  during  which  run  ofilcers  and  men  crowded  the 
topmast,  filled  with  enthusiastic  hope,  and  judging  that 
it  aflbrded  a  much  fairer  prospect  of  success  than  any 
of  those  so  hastily  passed.  Captain  Ross,  however, 
soon  thought  that  he  discovered  a  high  ridge  stretching 
directly  across  the  inlet :  and  though  a  great  part  of  it 
was  deeply  involved  in  mist,  a  passage  in  this  direction 
was  by  him  judged  to  be  hopeless.  The  sea  being 
open,  liowever,  the  commander  procced(;d  ;  but  about 
twelve  o'clock,  Mr.  Beverley,  the  assistant-surgeon, 
came  down  from  the  crow's  nest,  and  stated  that  he  l;iad 
seen  the  land  extending  very  nearly  across  the  entire 


BUCIIAN   AND   FRANKLIN. 


G7 


bay.  Hereupon,  it  is  said,  all  hopes  were  renounced, 
even  by  the  most  sanguine,  and  Captain  Ross  sailed  on- 
ward merely  ior  the  purpose  of  making  some  inagnoti- 
cal  observations. 

At  three  o'clock,  tlic  sky  having  cleared,  the  com- 
mander himself  went  (m  deck,  when  he  states  that  he 
distinctly  saw  across  the  bottom  of  the  bay  a  chain  of 
mountains,  continuous,  and  connected  with  those  which 
formed  its  opposite  shores.  The  weather  then  becom- 
ing unsettled,  he  made  the  signal  to  steer  the  vessels 
out  of  Lancaster  Sound. 

On  regaining  the  entrance  of  this  great  channel,  Cap- 
tain Ross  continued  to  steer  southward  along  the  west- 
ern shore,  without  seeing  any  entrance  which  ailbrded 
equal  promise.  Cmnberland  Strait  alone  was  similar  in 
magnitude  ;  but,  as  it  could  lead  only  into  the  higher 
latitudes  of  Hudson's  Bay,  it  ailbrded  little  chance  of  a 
passage  into  the  Arctic  Sea.  After  surveying,  there- 
fore, some  of  these  shores,  he  returned  home  early  in 
October.  Tlic  captain  arrived  in  England  under  the 
most  decided  conviction  that  Ballin's  observations  had 
been  perfectly  correct,  and  that  Lancaster  Sound  was  a 
bay,  affording  no  entrance  into  any  western  sea.  If 
even  any  strait  existed  between  the  mountains,  it  must, 
he  conceived,  be  forever  innavigable,  on  account  of  the 
ice  with  wi.ich  it  is  filled. 

The  Dorothea  and  Trent,  commanded  by  Captain 
Buchan  and  Lieut,  (afterv.'ards  Sir  John)  Franklin,  com- 
prised the  expediti(jn  destined  for  the  polo.  Franklin, 
in  regard  to  whose  fate  so  nuich  public  interest  was  in 
subsequent  years  excited,  entered  the  navy  in  early  life 
as  midshipman  of  the  Porpoise,  one  of  the  ships  em- 
ployed by  ('aptain  Flinders  on  the  survey  of  the  coasts 
of  Australia,  and  was  wrecked  in  her.  Next  in  tlnj 
rolyphemus,  as  midshipman  and  master's  mate,  from 


I    ! 


^   !l 


68 


BUCHAN  AND  FIANKLIN. 


;!  I 


11 


1801  to  1808,  he  was  in  the  fleet  with  Nelson  at  the 
iiattio  of  Copenlia^on.  lie  was  next  appointed  acting- 
lieutenant  in  the  B(!dford  ;  and  was  lieutenant  of  the 
Belleropiion  in  the  battle  of  Trafalgar,  in  1805,  and  also 
in  the  Bedford  in  tlie  attack  on  New  Orleans,  in  1815, 
where  he  commanded  in  the  boats,  was  wounded,  gazet- 
ted, and  higldy  spoken  of.  lie  was  considered  a  good 
nautical  surveyor,  well  versed  in  the  use  of  instruments, 
and  a  thorough  seaman. 

Captain  Beechey,  to  whom  we  are  indebted  for  an 
interesting  account  of  the  present  voyage,  observes  : 
"  The  peculiarity  of  the  proposed  route  afforded  oppor- 
tunities of  making  some  useful  experiments  on  the  ellip- 
tical figure  of  the  earth  ;  on  magnetic  phenomena ;  on 
the  refraction  of  the  atmosphere  in  high  latitudes  in 
ordinary  circumstances,  and  over  extensive  masses  of 
ice  ;  and  on  the  temperature  and  specific  gravity  of  the 
sea  at  the  surflice,  and  at  various  depths  ;  and  on  mete- 
orological and  other  interesting  phenomena."  The 
vessels  sailed  in  April,  1818  ;  Magdalena  Bay,  in  Spitz- 
bergen,  having  been  appointed  as  a  place  of  rendezvous, 
in  case  of  separation. 

Though  this  expedition,  like  that  of  Ross,  was  a  fail- 
ure in  its  main  object,  yet,  unlike  iiie.  fther,  it  was  not 
owing  to  any  want  of  exertion,  zcai,  or  intelligence,  in 
the  two  commanders  or  officers  ;  on  the  contrary,  the 
two  ships  were  supplied  with  some  of  those  who,  in 
future  voyages,  so  greatly  distinguished  themselves  as 
to  obtain  the  highest  steps  of  promotion,  and  to  receive 
honorary  rewards.  The  instructions  directed  that  they 
were  to  make  the  best  of  their  way  into  the  Spitzbergen 
Beas,  where  they  should  'endeavor  to  pass  to  the  north- 
Vv'ard,  between  Spitzbergen  and  Greenland,  without 
stoj/ping  Oil  either  of  their  coasts,  and  use  their  best 
endeavors  to  reach  the  North  Pole;  v/ith  a  suggestion, 


BUCIIAN  AND  FRANKLiN. 


69 


that  where  the  sta  is  deepest  and  least  connected  with 
the  land,  it  will  be  found  most  clear  of  ice. 

On  the  18th  of  May  the  ships  encountered  a  severe 
gale,  and  under  even  storm  staysails  were  buried  gun- 
wale deep  in  the  waves.  On  the  24th  they  sighted 
Chorie  Island,  situated  in  lat.  14°  33'  N.,  and  long.  17° 
40'  E.,  formerly  so  t  oted  for  its  fishery,  being  much 
frecjuented  by  walrusv.'S.  For  many  years  the  Mus- 
covy Company  carried  on  a  lucrative  trade  by  sending 
ships  to  the  island  for  oil  ;  as  many  as  a  thousand  ani- 
mals being  often  captured  by  the  crew  of  a  single  shi[) 
in  the  course  of  six  or  seven  hours. 

The  discovery  ships  passed  slowly  througli  the  small 
floes  and  huge  masses  of  ice  which  floated  by  in  succes- 
sion. The  progress  througli  such  a  labyrinth  of  frozen 
masses  was  a  most  interesting  sight.  The  officers  and 
crew  did  not  tire  of  watching  the  scene.  Captain 
Beechey  thus  describes  the  general  impression  created  : 
"  Very  few  of  us  had  ever  seen  the  sun  at  midnight ;  and 
this  night  happening  to  be  particularly  clear,  his  broad 
red  disc,  curiously  distoitcd  by  refraction,  and  sweep- 
ing majestically  along  the  northern  horizon,  was  an  ob- 
ject of  imposing  grandeur,  wliich  riveted  to  the  deck 
some  of  our  crew,  who  would  perhaps  have  beheld  with 
indifference  the  less  imposing  efl'ect  of  the  icebergs. 
The  rays  wore  too  oblicjue  to  illuminate  more  than  the 
inequalities  of  the  floes,  and,  ftilling  thus  partially  on 
the  grotesque  shapes,  either  really  assumed  by  the  ice 
or  distorted  by  the  unecpial  refraction  of  the  atmos- 
phere, so  betrayed  the  imagination  that  it  required  no 
great  exertion  of  fancy  to  trace  in  various  directions 
architectural  edifices,  grottos,  and  caves,  here  and  there, 
glittering  as  if  with  precious  metals." 

At  Cherie  Island  the  walruses  were  found  very  nu- 
nsercus.     Of  the  habits  and  character  of   the    walrus 


i 


cf 


70 


BUCHAN   AND   FRANKLIN. 


I 


(1 


•If:    ■ 


u 


Lieut.  Beechey  gives,  after  frequent  intercourse  with 
them,  a  very  interesting'  account.  Their  aflection  for 
their  young,  and  their  unflinching  courage  in  defending 
them,  are  remarkable  ;  not  more  so  tlieir  compassionate 
conduct  toward  a  wounded  companion,  whom  they  wili 
never  leave  till  carried  oft'  to  a  place  of  safety  ;  and 
even  the  young  ones  on  such  occasions  will  turn  fiercely 
against  the  boats  of  the  pursuers.  A  single  instance 
will  suffice  to  show  the  care  and  affection  bestowed  on 
their  young. 

"  We  were  greatly  amused  by  the  singular  and  affec- 
tionate conduct  of  a  walrus  towards  its  young.  In  the 
vast  sheet  of  ice  that  surrounded  the  ships  there  were 
occasionally  many  pools  ;  and,  when  the  weather  was 
clear  and  warm,  animals  of  various  kinds  would  fre- 
quently rise  and  sport  about  in  them,  or  crawl  from 
thence  upon  the  ice  to  bask  in  the  warmth  of  the  sun. 
A  walrus  rose  in  one  of  those  pools  close  to  the  ship, 
and,  finding  everything  quiet,  dived  down  and  brought 
up  its  young,  which  it  held  by  its  breast  by  pressfrig  it 
with  its  fhpper.  In  this  manner  it  moved  about  the  pool, 
keeping  in  an  erect  posture,  and  always  directing  the 
face  of  the  your»g  toward  the  vessel.  On  the  slightest 
movement  on  board,  the  mother  released  her  flipper  and 
pushed  the  young  one  under  water ;  but,  when  ever}'- 
thing  was  again  quiet,  brought  it  up  as  before,  and  for 
a  length  of  time  continued  to  play  about  in  the  pool,  to 
the  grefit  amusement  of  the  seamen,  who  gave  her  credit 
for  ahiiitioR  in  tuition  which,  though  possessed  of  con- 
siderable r-^agacity,  die  hardly  merited." 

On  one  occasion,  !>omc  of  the  crew  of  the  Trent,  having 
wounded  a  walrus,  took  to  their  boat,  when  they  were 
assailed  by  a  Itrge  number  of  walruses.  These  animals 
rose,  snorting  with  rag';,  and  rushed  at  the  boat ;  and 
it  wus  witii  the  utmost  difficulty  they  were  prevento<l 


BUCHim   AND   FRANKLIN. 


71 


from  upsetting  or  staving  it.  They  would  phicc  their 
tusks  on  the  gunwale,  or  rush  at  it  with  their  lu'uds. 
The  herd  was  S(j  numerous,  and  their  attacks  so  inces- 
sant, that  there  was  not  time  to  load  a  musket.  Tin; 
purser  fortunately  had  his  gun  loaded,  and  the  men  now 
being  nearly  exhausted  with  chopping  and  sticking  at 
their  assailants,  he  snatched  it  up,  and,  thrusting  the 
muzzle  down  tli(3  throat  of  a  large  and  formidable  wal- 
rus, who  seemed  to  be  the  leader  of  the  herd,  tired  into 
his  bowels.     The  wound  proved  mortal,  and  the  animal 


ATTACK    BV    WALIUJSES. 


fell  back  among  his  companions,  who  immediately 
desisted  from  the  attack,  assembled  round  him,  and  in  a 
moment  quitted  the  b(jat,  swimming  away  as  hard  as 
they  could  with  their  leader,  whom  they  actually  bore  up 
with  their  tusks,  and  assiduously  preserved  from  sinking. 
Many  similar  acts  of  compassion,  on  the  part  of  these 
animals  towards  their  v.'oai'.ded  companions,  were 
observed.      On    one  occasion,   when  several  waliuses 


72 


BUCriAN  AND  FRANKLIN. 


!►! 


were  attacked  upon  a  beach,  near  Magdalcna  Bay,  tlie 
first  diycliarge  of  muskets  drove  all  those  who  could 
crawl  into  the  sea  ;  but,  immediately  upon  their  panic 
subsiding,  uicjy  returned  to  the  shore  and  dragged  their 
wounded  compani(»nh  into  the  water,  either  by  main 
force,  or  by  rolling  them  over  with  their  tusks. 

On  the  28th  of  May,  the  weather  being  foggy  and 
severe,  with  heavy  falls  of  snow,  the  ships  separated, 
and  the  Trent  st(jod  to  the  northward  toward  Magdalcna 
Bay,  the  place  <jf  rendezvous,  along  the  edge  of  the 
main  body  of  ice :  they  met  here,  and,  scciing  it  impos- 
sible to  penetrate  the  marginal  line  of  the  ice,  and  the 
season  being  very  early,  the  commander  determined  on 
passing  a  few  days  in  that  bay,  in  which  they  anchored 
on  the  3d  of  June.  The  ice  was  in  the  cove  and  upper 
part  of  the  harbor,  but  was  in  a  rapidly  decaying  state, 
and,  on  revisiting  their  anchorage  here  in  the  beginning 
of  August,  it  had  entirely  disappeared.  Magdalcna  Bay 
is  rendered  conspicuous  by  four  glaciers,  the  smallest 
two  hundred  feet  above  the  sea,  on  the  slope  of  a  moun- 
tain. It  is  called  the  Hanging  Iceberg,  and  seems,  so 
Beechey  says,  as  if  a  very  slight  matter  would  detach 
it  from  the  mountain,  and  precipitate  it  into  the  sea. 
The  largest  oi"  the  four  extends  two  or  three  miles  in- 
land :  owing  to  the  great  rents  in  the  surface,  it  has 
been  named  the  Wagon-way,  from  the  resemblance  of 
the  fissures  to  ruts  made  by  wheels.  Several  glaciers 
similar  to  those  were  observed  near  Bane's  Gut,  the 
largest  about  ten  thousand  feet  in  length  by  two  or  three 
hundred  feet  in  perpendicular  height.  In  the  vicinity  of 
these  icebergs  a  strict  observance  of  silence  is  neces- 
sary ;  the  explosion  of  a  gun  scarcely  ever  fails  to  bring 
down  one  ( f  these  masses.  Mr.  Beechey  says  that  on 
two  occasions  thev  witnessed  avalanches  on  the  most 
magnificent  scale. 


BUCIIAN   AND  FRANKLIN. 


78 


I 


"  The  first  was  occasioned  by  tlie  discharge  of  a  mus- 
ket at  about  half  a  mile's  distance  from  the  glacier. 
Immediately  after  the  report  of  the  gun,  a  noise  resem- 
bling thunder  'vas  heard  in  the  direction  of  the  iceberg 
(glacier),  and  in  a  few  seconds  more  an  immense  pit!C(! 
broke  away,  and  fell  headlong  into  the  sea.  The  crew 
of  the  launch,  supposing  themselves  beyond  the  reach  of 
its  inlluence,  quietly  looked  upon  the  scene,  when  pres- 
ently a  sea  arose  and  rolled  toward  the  shore  with  such 
rapidity,  that  the  crew  had  not  time  to  take  any  jn-ecau- 
tions,  and  the  boat  was  in  consequence  washed  upon 
the  beach,  and  completely  filled  by  the  succeeding 
wave.  As  soon  as  their  astonishment  had  subsided, 
they  examined  the  boat,  and  found  her  so  badly  stove 
that  it  became  necessary  to  repair  her  in  order  to  return 
to  the  ship.  They  had  also  the  curiosity  to  measure 
the  distance  the  boat  had  been  carried  by  the  wave,  and 
found  it  to  be  ninety-six  feet." 

In  viewing  the  same  glacier  from  a  boat  at  a  distance, 
a  second  avalanche  took  place,  which  afforded  them  the 
gratification  of  witnessing  the  creation,  as  it  were,  of  a 
sea  iceberg ;  an  opportunity  which  has  occu;red  to  few, 
though  it  is  generally  understood  that  suih  monsters 
can  only  be  generated  on  shore. 

"  This  occurred  on  a  remarkably  fine  day,  when  the 
quietness  of  the  bay  was  first  interrupted  by  the  noise 
of  the  falling  body.  Lieutenant  Franklin  and  myself 
had  approached  one  of  these  stupe/idous  walls  of  ice, 
and  were  endeavoring  to  search  into  the  innermost  recess 
of  a  deep  cavern  that  was  near  the  foot  of  +he  glacier, 
when  we  heard  a  report  as  if  of  a  cannon,  and,  turning 
to  the  quarter  whence  it  proceeded,  v^e  perceived  an 
immense  piece  of  the  front  of  the  berg  sliding  down  from 
the  height  of  two  hundred  feet  at  least  into  the  sea,  and 
dispersing  the  water  in  every  direction,  accompanied  by 


74 


BUCHAN  AND   FRANKLIN. 


a  loud,  grinding  noise,  and  followed  by  a  quantity  of 
water,  which,  being  previously  lodged  in  the  lissures, 
now  made  its  escape  in  numberless  small  cataracts  over 
the  front  of  tlie  glucior." 

After  describing  the  disturbance  occasioned  by  the 
plunge  of  tiiis  enormous  fragment,  and  the  rollers  which 
swept  over  the  surface  of  the  bay,  and  obliged  the 
Dorothea,  then  careening  at  the  distance  of  four  miles, 
to  aright,  by  releasing  the  tackles,  he  thus  proceeds  : 

"  The  piece  that  had  been  disengaged  at  first  wholly 
disappeared  under  water,  and  nothing  was  seen  but  a 
violent  boiling  of  the  sea,  and  a  shooting  up  of  clouds 
of  spray,  like  that  which  occurs  ai  the  foot  of  a  great 
cataract.  After  a  short  time  it  reappeared,  raising  its 
head  full  a  hundred  feet  above  the  surface,  with  water 
pouring  down  from  all  parts  of  it ;  and  tiien,  laboring  as 
if  doubtful  which  way  it  should  fall,  it  rolled  over,  and, 
after  rocking  about  some  minutes,  at  length  became 
settled.  We  now  approached  it,  and  found  it  nearly  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  in  circumference,  and  sixty  feet  out  of 
the  water.  Knowing  its  specific  gravity,  and  making  a 
fair  allowanc(  for  its  inequalities,  we  computed  its 
weight  at  421,060  tons.  A  stream  of  salt  water  was 
still  pouring  down  its  sides,  aid  there  was  a  continual 
cracking  noise,  as  loud  as  that  of  a  cart-whip,  occa- 
sioned, I  suppose,  by  the  escape   of  fixed  (confined) 


an* 


n 


Mr,  Beechey  confirms  what  has  frequently  leen  found 
and  noticed  —  the  mildness  of  the  temperature  on  the 
western  coast  of  Spitzbergen,  there  being  little  or  no 
sensation  of  cold,  though  the  thermometer  might  be  only 
a  few  degrees  above  the  freezing  point.  The  brilliant 
and  lively  efiect  of  a  clear  day,  when  the  sun  shines 
forth,  with  a  pure  sky,  whose  azure  hue  is  so  intense  as 
to  find  no  parallel  even  in  the  boasted  Italian  sky,  affords, 


( 


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BUCHAN   AxND   FRANKLIN. 


75 


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in  Mr.  Booclicy's  opinion,  a  full  compensation  for  the 
cloudy  and  ndsty  weather,  when  the  hills  arc  clothed 
with  new-fallen  snow,  and  all  appears  dreary  and  deso- 
late. The  radiation  of  the  sun,  he  observes,  in  some 
sheltered  situations,  is  so  ])ovverful,  during  two  hours  on 
either  side  of  noon,  tliat  they  frequently  observed  tlie 
thermometer  upon  the  ice  in  the  ollino-  ut  58°,  02°,  GT°  ; 
and  once  at  midnitjid  it  rose  to  13°,  althou<i;'}i  in  the 
shade  at  the  same  time  it  was  oidy  3(5°.  Hence  are 
found  varieties  of  Alpine  j)lants,  grasses,  and  lichens, 
such  as  in  the  more  southern  aspects  flourish  in  great 
luxuriance  ;  they  are  here  found  ascending  to  a  consid- 
erable height,  "  so  tliat,"  says  Beechej'^,  "  we  have  fre- 
quently seen  the  reindeer  browsing  at  an  elevation  of 
fifteen  hundred  feet." 

On  account  of  the  mildness  of  the  temperature,  the 
shores  of  Spitzbcrgeu  arc  frequented  by  multitudes  of 
animals  of  various  descriptions.  "  From  an  early  hour 
in  the  morning  until  the  period  of  rest  returned,  the 
shores  around  us  reverberated  with  the  merry  cry  of  the 
little  auk,  willocks,  divers,  cormorants,  gulls,  and  other 
aquatic  birds ;  and,  wherever  we  went,  groups  of  wal- 
ruses, basking  in  the  sun,  mingled  their  playful  roar 
with  the  husky  bark  of  the  seal."  The  little  auks  or 
rotges  (the  Alca  alle)  are  stated  to  be  so  numerous,  that 
"  we  have  frequently  seen  an  uninterrupted  line  of  them 
extending  full  half-way  over  the  bay,  or  to  a  distance 
of  more  than  three  miles,  ai  >1  so  close  together  that 
thirty  have  fallen  at  one  shot.  This  living  column 
might  be  about  six  yards  broad  and  as  many  deep  ;  so 
that,  allowing  sixteen  birds  to  a  cubic  yard,  there  would 
be  four  millions  of  those  creatures  on  the  wing  at  one 
time."  This  number,  he  adds,  appears  very  largo  ; 
yet,  when  it  is  told  that  the  little  rotges  rise  in  such 
multitudes  as  to  darken  the  air,  and  that  their  chorus  is 


,.«^„.. 


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76 


BUCHAN  AiM)   FRANKLIN. 


distinctly  audible  at  a  distance  of  four  miles,  the  estimate 
will  not  appear  to  be  exaggerated. 

At  Vogcl  Sang  and  Cloven  Cliff,  between  which  is 
Fair  Haven,  wherein  the  ships  anchored,  the  surround- 
ing islands  are  described  as  clothed  with  lichens  and 
other  rich  pasturage  for  reindeer,  which  creatures  are 
here  so  abundant  (upon  Vogel  Sang  in  particular),  that 
this  island  alone  supplied  the  expedition  with  forty  car- 
casses in  high  condition,  the  fat  on  the  loins  being  from 
four  to  six  inches  thick,  and  a  carcass  prepared  for 
dressing  weighing  two  hundred  and  eighty-five  pounds. 
These  fine  creatures  showed  evident  marks  of  affection 
for  each  other.  "  They  were  at  this  time  in  pairs,  and 
when  one  was  shot  the  other  would  hang  over  it,  and 
occasionally  lick  it,  apparently  bemoaning  its  fate  ;  and, 
if  not  immediately  killed,  would  stand  three  or  four 
shots  rather  than  desert  its  fallen  companion."  "  This 
compassionate  conduct,"  continues  Beechey,  "it  is 
needless  to  say,  doubled  our  chance  of  success,  though 
I  must  confess  it  was  obtained  in  violation  of  our  better 
feelings."  These  animals  are  said  to  take  to  the  water 
freely,  and  swim  from  one  island  to  another.  The  boats 
■  of  the  Trent  took  four,  which  they  w'shed  to  retain 
^  ;ilive  ;  but  they  were  so  wild  that  they  broke  their 
slender  limbs,  and  inflicted  other  serious  wounds,  so 
that  it  became  necessary  to  put  an  end  to  their  suffer- 
ings by  killing  them. 

At  one  of  the  islets  near  Vogel  Sang  were  also  the 
'  King  Eider-ducks,  in  such  numbers  that  it  was  impossi- 
ble, almost,  to  walk  without  treading  on  their  nests, 
which  they  defended  with  determined  resolution.  If 
driven  off  by  foxes,  or  other  large  animals,  they  hastily 
draw  the  down  of  the  nest  over  the  eggs,  and  glue  it 
with  a  yellow  fluid,  not  only  to  preserve  the  warmth  of 
the  eggs,  but  that,  being  of  so  offensive  a  nature,  the 


i 


BUCHAN  AND  FRANKLIN. 


77 


s  ■ 

1l 


L 


foxes  would  not  touch  the  eggs  tainted  with  it.  Foxes 
and  bears  are  everywhere  found  on  the  shore  and  on 
the  ice  ;  and  the  sea  about  Spitzbergen  is  as  much  alive 
as  the  land,  from  the  multitude  of  burgomasters,  stront- 
jaggers,  malmouks,  kittiwakes,  and  the  rest  of  the  gull 
tribe,  while  the  amphibious  animals  and  the  fish  enliven 
both  the  ice  and  the  water,  from  the  huge  whale  to  the 
minute  clio  on  which  it  feeds,  swallowing  perhaps  a 
million  at  a  mouthful.  In  this  respect  of  animal  life, 
the  Arctic  regions  of  the  globe  essentially  differ  from 
those  within  the  Antarctic  Circle,  where  all  appears  to 
be  stillness,  silence,  and  solitude. 

-  On  the  Tth  of  June  the  ships  left  Magdalena  Bay,  and 
were  hampered  with  fragments  of  ice,  usually  called 
brash-ice,  which,  as  they  proceeded,  became  thicker  and 
more  solid,  and,  indeed,  imper(*.'trable  ;  but  a  breeze 
opened  and  dispersed  it,  and  carried  the  ships  into  clear 
water.  In  going  westerly  they  fell  in  with  several 
whale-ships,  by  which  they  learned  that  the  ice  in  that 
quarter  was  quite  compact,  and  that  fifteen  vessels  were 
beset  in  it.  Buchan,  therefore,  stood  to  the  northward. 
They  passed  Cloven  Cliff,  —  a  remarkable  isolated  r<»ck, 
which  marks  the  north-western  boundary  of  Spitzbergen, 
—  and  also  Red  Bay,  when  they  were  stopped  by  the 
ice  closing  the  channel  between  it  and  the  shore,  and 
became  firmly  fixed.  By  great  exertions,  however, 
they  got  into  tb'i  floe  of  ice,  where  they  remained  thir- 
teen days,  whe?  the  field  began  to  separate,  and  to  set 
to  the  southward,  at  the  rate  of  three  miles  an  hour, 
and  the  ships  got  into  an  open  sea,  where,  however, 
they  were  not  long  permitted  to  remain,  and  took 
shelter  in  Fair  Haven. 

Finding,  from  the  view  afforded  by  the  hills,  that  the 
ice  was  driving  to  the  northward,  they  again  put  to  sea 
on  the  6th  of  July,  and  sailed  as  far  as  80°  16'  N.,  where 


78 


BUCHAN   AND  FRANKLIN. 


tijo  same  impenetrable  barrier  obstructed  their  further 
progress.  On  the  following  clay,  however,  so  rapid 
had  been  the  motion  of  the  ice  during  the  night,  that 
channels  of  water  were  observed  in  every  quarter,  and 
the  wind  was  favorable  for  proceeding  along  one  of  the 
open  channels.  Captain  Buchan  lost  not  a  moment  in 
pushing  his  ship  into  one  of  those  openings,  spreading 
every  sail  his  masts  would  bear,  and  was  cheerfully 
followed  by  his  enterprising  consort,  to  the  great  joy 
of  all  on  board.  In  the  evening,  however,  the  channels 
began  to  close  again,  and  the  vessels  were  soon  beset 
and  pressed  close  by  the  packed  ice.  This  was  the  end 
of  their  voyage  northward,  and  the  latitude  gained 
was  80°  34'  N.  In  vain  they  labored  tw^o  days  in  drag- 
ging the  vessels  witli  ropes  and  ice-anchors  ;  for,  though 
they  had  left  the  ice  behind  them,  the  current  had  car- 
ried them  back  to  the  southward  three  miles,  and  it 
was  clear  that  all  attempts  to  get  one  mile  further  to 
the  northward  would  be  vain. 

Captain  Buchan  being  now  satisfied  that  he  had  given 
the  ice  a  fair  trial  in  the  vicinity  of  Spitzbergen,  resolved 
on  standing  over  toward  the  coast  of  Greenland.  Hav- 
ing succeeded  in  getting  the  ships  to  the  edge  of  the 
pack,  and  sailing  along  it,  a  violent  gale  of  wind  came 
on  so  suddenly  that  they  were  at  once  reduced  to  storm 
staysails.  The  ice  was  setting  fast  upon  them,  and  the 
Dorothea  being  nearest  to  it,  in  order  to  escape  imme- 
diate shipwreck,  it  was  deemed  necessary  to  take  refuge 
among  it.  The  Trent  followed  her  <  xample,  and  dashed 
into  the  "  unbroken  line  of  furious  breakers,  in  which 
immense  pieces  of  ice  were  heaving  and  subsiJing  with 
the  waves,  and  dashing  together  with  a  violence  which 
nothing,  apparently,  but  a  solid  body,  could  withstand, 
occasioning  such  a  noise  that  it  was  with  the  greatest 
diflSculty  we  could  make  our  orders  heard  by  the  crow." 


BUCIIAN   AND   FKANKLIN. 


79 


V 

! 


"  No  language,"  he  says,  "  1  am  convinced,  can  convoy 
an  adeqiuite  idea  of  tlic  terrific  grandeur  of  the  eflect 
now  produced  by  the  collision  of  the  ice  and  the  tem- 
pestuous ocean." 

But  when  the  moment  arrived  that  the  strength  of 
the  little  bark  was  to  be  placed  in  competition  with  that 
of  the  great  icy  continent,  and  doubts  might  reasonably 
have  arisen  of  her  surviving  the  unequal  conflict,  the 
crew  preserved  the  greatest  calmness  and  resolution. 
.  Captain  .Beechey  says :  .  .  ,:;  .,... 
j  "  If  ever  the  fortitude  of  seamen  was  fairly  tried,  it 
was  assuredly  not  less  so  on  this  occasion  ;  and  I  will 
not  conceal  the  pride  I  felt  in  witnessing  the  bold  and 
decisive  tone  in  which  the  orders  wcfc  issued  by  the 
commander  of  our  little  vessel  (Franklin),  and  the 
promptitude  and  steadiness  with  which  tliey  were  exe- 
cuted by  the  crew.  Each  ])crson  instinctively  secured 
his  own  hold,  and,  with  his  eyes  fi.Kcd  upon  the  masts, 
awaited  in  breathless  anxiety  the  moment  of  concussion. 
It  soon  arrived  ;  the  brig,  cutting  her  way  through  the 
light  ice,  ca.  in  violent  contact  with  the  main  body. 
If.  an  instant  we  all  lost  our  footing,  the  masts  bent 
with  the  impetus,  and  the  cracking  timbers  from  below 
bespoke  a  pressure  which  was  calculated  to  awaken  our 
serious  apprehensions." 

Captain  Beechey  proceeds  to  give  a  vivid  and  graphic 
account  of  tl:  3  state  of  the  ship,  accompanied  by  a  spirited 
and  well-executed  print,  descriptive  of  her  situation. 
"Her  motion,"  he  says,  "was  so  great,  that  the  ship's 
bell,  which  in  the  heaviest  gale  of  wind  had  never  struck 
of  itself,  now  tolled  so  continually  that  it  was  ordered 
to  be  muffled  for  the  purpose  of  escaping  the  unpleasant 
association  it  was  calculated  to  produce."  After  a  few 
hours  the  gale  ceased,  and  the  pack  broke  up  sufficiently 
to  release  the  ships,  which  were  so  disabled  that  the 


t) 


m 


BUCHAN   AND  FRANKLIN. 


Dorothea  waa  in  a  foundering  condition.  They  made 
the  best  of  their  way  to  Fair  Haven  in  a  sinking  state, 
where  they  repaired  their  damages  as  well  as  they 
could  ;  it  was  obvious,  however,  there  was  an  end  to 
any  further  attempt  as  regarded  the  main  object  of  tliG 
cx])edition.  The  Trent  being  the  less  damaged  of  the 
two,  Lieutenant  Franklin  requested  that  he  might  be 
alh^wed  to  proceed  alone  in  the  execution  of  the  service. 
This  could  not  be  acceded  to,  as,  in  the  event  which 
had  occurred.  Captain  Buchan  was  directed  by  his  in- 
Rt"uctions  to  take  command  of  the  Trent,  provided  her 
consort  was  rendered  unserviceable  ;  had  he  done  so, 
the  Dorothea,  unaccompanied  in  her  way  home,  might 
have  risked  the  lives  of  her  crew  in  a  ship  so  shattered 
and  unsafe.  It  was  therefore  decided  that  both  should 
return  home  ;  and  on  the  30th  of  August  they  put  to 
sea,  and  on  the  22d  of  October  arrived  at  Deptford. 


SITUATION'    t.F   TilK   TRENT. 


fi 


f 


%f 


■'hf 


CHAPTER  IV. 


parry's  first  voyage.  —  ICEBERCS.  —  PASSAGE  THROUGH  LANCASTER 
80r!TD.  —  PRINCE  REGENT'S  INLET.  — WEIiLINOTON  CHANNEL.  —  MEL- 
VILLE   ISLAND. WINTER    QUARTERS.  SCURVY SNOW    ItLINDNESS. 

THEATRICALS. —UREA  KINO     UP     OF     THE     ICE.  —  RETURN     OF     THE    EX- 
PEDITION. 


\ 


k 


Much  dissatisfaction  was  felt  in  England  at  the  result 
of  Ross's  expedition,  described  in  the  last  chapter.  The 
grounds,  in  particular,  on  which  Lancaster  Sound,  an 
opening  so  spacious,  and  in  a  position  so  favorable  in 
respect  to  western  discovery,  had  been  so  abruptly- 
quitted,  appeared  inadmissible.  The  "  Croker  Moun- 
tains, "  which  had  barred  the  progress  of  Sir  John 
Ross,  were  affirmed  by  some  who  had  borne  part  in  the 
abortive  voyage  to  be  an  ocular  illusion.  This  opin- 
ion was  very  decidedly  espoused  by  Lieut.  Parry,  the 
second  in  command.  It  was  determined,  therefore,  that 
a  fresh  expedition  should  be  equipped  and  intrusted  to 
him,  that  he  might  fulfil,  if  possible,  his  own  sanguine 
hopes,  and  those  of  the  government. 

He  was  furnished  with  the  Ilecla,  of  375  tons,  and  a 
crew  of  fifty-eight  men  ;  and  with  the  Griper  gun-brig, 
of  180  tons,  and  thirty-six  men,  commanded  by  Lieut, 
Liddon.  These  ships  were  made  as  strong  as  possible 
for  the  navigation  of  the  Arctic  seas  ;  and  were  stored 
with  ample  provisions  for  two  years,  a  copious  supply 
of  anti-scorbutics,  and  everything  which  could  enable 


i 

p' 

\[\ 

*.; 

.i 


82 


th 


PARRY'S   FIRST  VOY  \nK 


•lure  til 


.If 


ho  crows  t»»  (MPlun'  in«»  tiioHt  cxtn'mo  n^j^ors  ol  u  polar 
winter. 

liitMit.  I'lirrv,  (l(>stiii'(l  to  outstri])  all  liin  |i!(Ml«MM»HsorH 
ill  tlic  canM'r  of  iinrllicni  discnvn y,  wcij^lird  aiirlior  al. 
iho  Norc  on  tin-  lltli  May,  ISI«>,  and  on  tlio  LMKJi 
roiiiKJeil  tlu'  nMiiolrsl  |)oiiii  ol'  tlio  OiKiicvm.  1I(m«ihI«>iiv- 
orcii  to  cross  the  Atlantic  iiboiit  tin*  |>aiallcl  orfjS",  and, 
though  inipedtMJ  diirin<;"  the  lirst  tort  night,  of  ihme  by  !i 
cinirse  of  MnfuvoruMe  w»'ather,  ohtained,  on  the  If.th, 
from  the  distance  apparently  »>!'  not  less  than  forty 
leagues,  a  vi(»w  of  the  lofty  clill's  composing;  Vn\H)  Viwd- 
\vell.  On  the  JSth  the  ships  tirst  tell  in  witli  icehergs, 
i\\o  air  being  also  lilled  with  petrels,  kittiwakes,  terns, 
mid  other  wiiig(»d  inhabitants  of  the  northorn  sky.  Jlo 
now  made  tut  etl'ort  to  push  north  and  west,  through  the 
icy  masses,  in  tlu*  direction  of  Lancaster  Souml ;  but 
these  suddenly  closed  upon  him  ;  and  on  tlu*  'JAth  boMi 
vessels  were  so  immovably  beset,  that,  no  power  could 
t'.iru  their  heads  a  single  jx.int  of  the  compass.  Tli(\v 
remained  thus  tixed.  but  sale,  when,  on  the  morning  of 
the  s<H'ond  day,  a  heavy  roll  of  the  sea  loosened  flu> 
ice,  and  drovi^  it  ag;ainst  them  with  such  violence,  that 
only  their  very  strong:  construction  saved  them  Irom 
severe  injury.  The  discoNcrors,  theridore,  were  fain  to 
extricate  themselves  as  soo!i  as  possible ;  and,  resign- 
ing- the  idea  of  rtMching  Lar.caster  Sound  by  the  most 
direct  course,  resolved  to  ^teer  northward  along"  tho 
border  of  this  g-reat  icy  Held  till  tb.ey  should  lind  open 
water.  In  this  prog^ress  they  verified  the  observation 
of  Davis,  that  in  the  narrowest  part  of  tho  great  sea, 
misnamed  his  Strait,  the  shores  on  each  sido  could  be 
seen  at  the  same  moment.  Thus  they  proceeded  till 
they  reached  the  WomenV:  Islands  and  Hope  Sanderson, 
in  about  latitude  73°.  As  every  step  was  now  likely  to 
carry  them  further  from  iheir  destination,  Parry  deter- 


I 


l'AiUlV'8   FIIU^T   VOYAGE, 


^3 


1 1  ill' 


fho 


8oa, 

Id  be 

ll  till 

i-son, 

ly  to 

ietcr- 


r 
i 


iiiiiHMl  u|)(Mi  a  <lrn|)(»rut«!  jmihIi  to  ilio  wcHtwuid.  I'avorcil 
widi  11  ino(lciat('  hn'r/c,  (In-  HliipH  'vcro  nni  into  iIm; 
(icIaclisMl  picccH  and  Hoes  td'  ice,  ilirodj^h  wliic.li  they 
wort(  lioavi'd  with  hawHcrn  ;  Iml,  llio  ol)sl,a(;I(.'H  Ixfcoiniii^ 
uhvays  more  iiisiipcralilc,  lli<'y  vvcro  at  leiif^th  (toinpli'tcly 
l)t!H(!t,  and  a  heavy  I'o^  eondn^  on,  made  lliein  little;  aliie 
to  take  ailvanla^i'  of  any  lavoiable  «lianf^(\  V(!t,  in  tin' 
couiKti  (d'  a  we<'k,  <Iion;jfli  repeattMlly  and  Horncdinies 
danj^eronsjy  Huiroundctl,  they  vviiiiKMl  their  way  ri()ni 
hme  to  lan(!  of  open  water,  till  only  one;  len;^lhened  Hoe 
8(?para(ed  them  IVoni  an  open  soa.  liy  lahoiioiiHly  saw- 
ing' through  this  olt.strnetion,  lluty  finally  pcMudrated  tlu; 
j^roat  Itanier,  and  saw  the  shore,  elear  of  iee,  (txtctnding 
bolore  tluMn. 

The  navigators  now  Itoro  diroetly  for  Lancast<!r  Sonnd, 
and  on  the  JJOth  July  found  theinselvt's  at  its  entrances. 
They  f<dt  an  extraordinary  emotion  as  tlu;}'  re(!og'rd/e(l 
this  nia|;nilieent  chann(d,  with  t!ie  lofty  clilTs  by  whieh  it 
was  guarded,  aware  that  a  v(!ry  short  tiuKj  would  decide 
the  fate  of  their  grand  undertaking.  They  were  tanta- 
lized, however,  by  a  fresh  breeze  condng  directly  down 
the  Hound,  whieh  did  not  suUer  them  to  make  more;  than 
u  ver;'  slow  progress.  Still,  there  was  no  appearance 
of  cbstruction  either  from  ice  or  land,  and  even  the  heavy 
swell  whi(di  they  had  I;*  encounter,  driving  the  water 
repeatedly  in  at  the  stern  windows,  was  hailed  as  an 
indication  of  open  sea  to  the  west      rd. 

The  llecla  left  the  Griper  behind,  but  still  with(Hit 
!  making  any  great  way  herself,  till  the  3d  August,  when 
^  an  easterly  breeze  sprang  up,  carrying  both  vessels 
rapidly  forward.  A  crowd  of  sail  was  set,  and  they  pro- 
,  ceeded  triumphantly  in  their  course.  The  minds  of  all 
^  were  filled  with  anxious  liope  and  suspense.  The  mast- 
V  heads  wne  crowded  with  ofBccrs  and  n)en,  and  tho  suc- 
•    cessive  reports  brought  down  from  the  highest  pinnacle 


84 


PARRY'S   FIRST  VOYAGE. 


T      ,1 

rill 

jli 


riillod  the  crow's  nost,  were  oag-orly  listonod  to  on 
deck.  T'.icir  p.-ith  was  Htill  unol)8tructed.  They  passed 
various  headlands,  witli  several  wide  openings  towards 
the  north  and  south,  to  which  they  liastily  gave  the 
names  of  Crokcr  Bay,  Navy  Board  Inlet,  and  similar 
designations  ;  but  these  it  was  not  their  present  object 
to  explore.  The  wind,  freshening  more  and  more,  car- 
ried them  happily  forward,  till  at  nn'dnight  they  found 
themselves  in  longitude  83"  12',  nearly  a  hundred  and 
lifty  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  sound,  which  still 
retained  a  breadth  of  fifty  miles.  The  success  of  the 
expedition,  they  fondly  hoped,  was  now,  to  a  great 
ei:tcnt,  decided.  •  .  •  -     .'  .- 

The  Ilecla  at  this  time  slackened  her  course,  to  allow 
her  companion  to  come  up,  which  she  did  in  longitude 
85".  They  proceeded  together  to  longitude  86*  30',  and 
found  two  other  inlets,  which  they  named  Burnet  and 
Stratton  ;  then  a  bold  cape,  named  Fellfoot,  forming, 
apparently,  the  termination  of  this  long  line  of  coast. 
The  lengthened  swell,  which  still  rolled  in  from  the 
north  and  west,  with  the  oceanic  color  of  the  waters, 
inspired  the  flattering  persuasion  that  they  had  already 
passed  the  region  of  straits  and  inlets,  and  were  now 
wafted  along  the  wide  expanse  of  the  polar  basin. 
Nothing,  in  short,  it  was  hoped,  would  henceforth 
obstruct  their  progress  to  Icy  Cape,  the  western  bound- 
ary of  America.  An  alarm  of  land  was  given,  but  it 
proved  to  arise  only  from  an  island  of  no  great  extent. 
However,  more  land  was  soon  discovered,  beyond  Cape 
Fellfoot,  which  was  ascertained  to  be  the  entrance  to  a 
noble  recess,  extending  on  their  right,  which  they 
named  Maxwell  Bay.  An  uninterrupted  range  of  sea 
still  stretched  out  before  them,  though  they  were  some- 
what discomposed  by  seeing,  on  the  south,  a  line  of 


PARRY'S    FIRST   VOYAGE. 


continnons  ico  ;  l)ut  it  left  an  opon  paaaagc,  and  they 
hoped  to  find  it  merely  a  detached  stream. 

A  little  8pa(;e  onwards,  however,  they  discovered, 
with  deep  dismay,  that  this  ice  was  joined  to  a  com- 
pact and  impenetrable  body  of  floes,  which  completely 
crossed  the  channel,  and  joined  the  western  point  of 
Maxwell  Bay.  It  behoved  them,  therefore,  immedi- 
ately to  draw  back,  to  avoid  being  embayed  in  the 
ice,  along  the  edges  of  which  a  violent  surf  was  then 
beating.  The  officers  began  to  amuse  themselves  with 
fruitless  attempts  to  catch  white  whales,  when  the 
weather  cleared,  and  they  saw,  to  the  south,  an  open 
sea,  with  a  dark  water-sky.  Parry,  hoping  that  this 
might  lead  to  an  ur^ncumbered  passage  in  a  lower 
latitude,  steered  in  this  direction,  and  found  himself  at 
the  mouth  of  a  great  inlet,  ten  leagues  broad,  with  no 
visible  termination  ;  and  to  the  two  capes  at  its  en- 
trance he  gave  the  names  of  Clarence  and  Seppings. 

The  mariners,  finding  the  western  shore  of  this  inlet 
greatly  obstructed  with  ice,  moved  across  to  the  east- 
ern, where  they  entered  a  broad  and  open  channel. 
The  coast  was  the  most  dreary  and  desolate  they  had 
ever  beheld,  even  in  the  Arctic  world,  presenting  scarcely 
a  semblance  either  of  animal  or  vegetable  life.  Naviga- 
tion was  rendered  more  arduous,  from  the  entire  irregu- 
larity of  the  compass,  now  evidently  approaching  to  the 
magnetic  pole,  and  showing  an  excess  of  variation 
which  they  vainly  attempted  to  measure,  so  that  the 
binnacles  were  laid  aside  as  useless  lumber. 

They  sailed  a  hundred  and  twenty  miles  up  this  in'et, 
and  its  augmenting  width  inspired  them  with  correspond- 
ing hopes  ;  when,  with  extreme  consternation,  they 
suddenly  perceived  the  ice  to  diverge  from  its  parallel 
course,  running  close  in  with  a  point  of  land  which 
appeared  to  form  the  southern  extremity  of  the  eastern 
8 


80 


1»AIUIY\S   I'llUJT   VDVAOE. 


Hliorc.  To  thiH  fonjIaiKl  tlicy  gavo  the  name  of  Cape 
Kator.  Th(;  wcHtorn  liori/on  alHo  appeared  eovereil 
with  heavy  and  extensive  floes,  a  bright  and  dazzling 
ice-blink  extending  from  right  to  left.  The  name  of  the 
Prince  llegent  was  given  to  this  spacious  inlet,  which 
Parry  strongly  suspected  must  have  a  communication 
with  Hudson's  Bay.  He  now  determined  to  return  to 
the  old  station,  and  watch  the  opportunity  when  the 
relenting  ice  would  allow  the  ships  to  proceed  west- 
ward. That  point  was  reached,  not  without  some  difli- 
culty,  amid  ice  and  fog. 

At  Prince  Leopold's  Islands,  on  the  15th,  the  barrier 
was  as  impenetrable  as  ever,  with  a  briglit  blink ;  and 
from  the  top  of  a  high  hill  there  was  no  water  to  be 
seen  ;  luckily,  also,  tiiere  was  no  land.  On  the  18th, 
on  getting  once  more  close  to  the  northern  shore,  the 
navigators  began  to  make  a  little  way,  and  some  showers 
of  rain  and  snow,  accompanied  with  heavy  wind,  pro- 
duced such  an  efiect,  that  on  the  2l8t  the  whole  ice  had 
disappeared,  and  they  could  scarcely  believe  it  to  be 
the  same  sea  which  had  just  before  been  covered  with 
floes  upon  floes,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach. 

Parry  now  crowded  all  sail  to  the  westward,  and, 
though  detained  by  want  of  wind,  he  passed  Radstock 
Bay,  Capes  Kurd  and  Hotham,  and  Beechey  Island ; 
after  which  he  discovered  a  fine  and  broad  inlet  leading 
to  the  north,  which  he  called  Wellington.  The  sea  at 
the  mouth  being  perfectly  open,  he  would  not  have 
hesitated  to  ascend  it,  had  there  not  been  before  him, 
along  the  southern  side  of  an  island  named  Cornwallis, 
an  open  channel  leading  due  west.  Wellington  Inlet 
was  now  considered  by  the  officers,  so  high  were  their 
hopes,  as  forming  the  western  boundary  of  the  land 
stretching  from  Baffin's  Bay  to  the  Polar  Sea,  into 
which  they  had  little  doubt  they  were  entering.     For 


PARIIY'8   FIIUST   VOYAGE. 


87 


this  reason,  Lieutenant  Parry  did  not  licsitato  to  give  to 
tin?  pn'.it  cliiinnel,  which  WiiH  undoiHtood  to  eflect  ho 
dcsirabh;  a  junction,  the  merited  appeUation  of  Harrow's 
Strait,  after  tlie  much-esteemed  promoter  of  th(!  expedi- 
tion. A  favorable  bree/o  now  sprang*  up,  and  the  adven- 
turers passed  gayly  and  triumpiiantly  akMig*  the  exten- 
sive shore  of  Cornwallis  Island,  then  coasted  a  larg-cr 
island,  named  IJathurst,  and  next  a  smaller  one,  called 
JJyam  Martin.  At  this  last  place  they  judg-ed,  by  some 
experiments,  that  they  had  passed  the  ma<^netic  merid- 
ian, situated,  probably,  in  about  100°  west  longitude, 
and  where  the  compass  would  have  pointed  due  south 
instead  of  due  north. 

The  navigation  now  became  extremely  difficult,  in 
consequence  of  thick  fogs,  which  not  only  froze  on  the 
shrouds,  but,  as  the  compass  was  also  useless,  took 
away  all  means  of  knowing  the  direction  in  which  they 
sailed.  They  were  obliged  to  trust  that  the  land  and 
ice  would  preserve  the  same  line,  and  sometimes  em- 
ployed the  oddest  expedients  for  ascertaining  the  j)re- 
cise  point.  They  encountered,  also,  a  compact  floe, 
through  which  they  were  obliged  to  bore  their  way  by 
main  force. 

Notwithstanding  all  these  obstacles,  they  reached  the 
coast  of  an  island  larger  than  any  before  discovered, 
to  which  they  gave  the  name  of  Melville.  The  wind 
now  failed,  and  they  moved  slowly  forward  by  towing 
and  warping,  till,  on  the  4th  September,  the  lieutenant 
could  announce  to  his  joyful  crew  that,  having  reached 
the  longitude  of  110°  west,  they  were  become  entitled  to 
the  reward  of  five  thousand  pounds  promised  by  Parlia- 
ment to  the  first  ship's  company  who  should  attain  that 
meridian.  They  still  pushed  forward  with  redoubled 
ardor,  but  soon  found  their  course  arrested  by  an 
impenetrable  barrier  of  ice.     They  waited  nearly  a  fort- 


88 


PARRY'S   HRST  VOYAGE. 


:<■  ■•  't- 


night,  in  hopes  of  overcoming  it,  till,  about  the  20th, 
their  situation  became  alarming.  The  young  i('  began 
rapidly  to  form  on  the  surface  of  the  waters,  retarded 
only  by  winds  and  swells,  so  that  the  commanding  offi- 
cer was  convinced  that,  in  the  event  of  a  single  liour'fi 
calm,  he  v  ould  be  frozen  up  in  the  midst  of  the  sea. 

No  option  was  therefore  left  but  to  return,  and  to 
choose  between  two  apparently  good  harbors,  which 
had  been  recently  passed  on  Melville  Island.  Not 
without  difficulty  he  reached  this  place  on  the  24th,  and 
decided  in  favor  of  th  ;  more  western  haven,  as  alTordiiig 
the  fullest  security  ;  but  it  was  necessary  to  cut  his 
way  two  miles  through  a  large  floe  with  which  it  was 
encumbered.  To  clfect  this  arduous  operation,  the  sea- 
men marked  with  boarding-pikes  two  parallel  lines,  at 
the  distance  of  somewhat  more  than  the  breadth  of  the 
larger  sliip.  They  sawed,  in  the  first  place,  along  the 
path  tracked  out,  and  then,  by  cross-sawings,  detached 
large  pieces,  which  were  separated  diagonally,  in  order 
to  be  floated  out ;  and  sometimes  boat-sails  were  fas- 
tened to  thp'^,  to  take  the  advantage  of  a  favorable 
breeze.  On  the  26th  the  ships  were  established  in  five 
fathoms  water,  at  about  a  cable's  length  from  the 
beach.  For  some  time  the  ice  was  daily  cleared  round 
them  ;  but  this  was  soon  found  an  endless  and  useless 
labor,  c  'id  they  were  allowed  to  be  regularly  frozen  in 
for  the  winter. 

Parry  then  applied  himself  to  name  the  varied  group 
of  islands  along  which  he  had  passed.  lie  called  tiiein, 
at  lirst.  Now  Georgia ;  but,  recollecting  that  this  appel- 
lation was  preoccupied  by  one  in  the  Pacific,  he  gave 
the  title  of  the  "  North  Georgian  Islands,"  in  honor  of 
his  majesty  George  III.,  whose  reign  had  been  so  emi- 
nently distinguished  by  the  extension  of  nautical  and 
geographical  knowledge. 


'^^' 


,^>-'*T?^ 


4- 


^3y■ 


i 


.•^^.i^. 


0R8 

in 

)iip 
.'in, 

)0l- 

ivo 
of 

mi- 
nd 


.^- 


8.9 


r"VfiUY'S   FIH54T  V  >VaQF. 


>t 


.  ni^;](t,  5f/  k---\^t'^  .f  .>vt-r'.iv.im'x  it,  fiil,  about  tin;  20th. 
their  s-  m^-'U  ?.(.ratn«f  alaimujg',  Th*-  v-jiint,'  u'<:  r>*.<u!i 
r»f'j**?v-  <>,  Ji>itn  t»ij  tho  isnrfacu  of  IJm'  waters,  rf'h\i  "?  .j 
«mly  !.«'.  >i?4T:ftn  ur.ii  8W(!lis,  n-o  tlud  tfjc  oomivnrMlinir  ofii- 
^-»'f  *"!}x  ^>i-tiviMc«>d  tivit,  in  tho  event  ol  u  Kin^-k;  hour'M 
fair*,  r-.  -9*-*.>»iM  Ik*  fw/.on  nyi  in  tlio  niidiJi  oMij<«  8oa. 

?^^*t  .>t  '  -•♦  ^'as  tJicrefore  leR  Liit  to  return,  uini  to 
'-*■:>.«<  -st'-w^^H  two  .appareiitly  i-uo.!  Jiurbors,  v/hic.h 
JM^J  T^  *f  *TT»r«tly  pa>^«/'(i  on  ■M<»ivill.  Ulai>d.  Not 
Vfit'ff.  •,-  •l^sftt'S  .'  »u^  r«:>aciK\'i  th<s  pijto<»  on  liio  2itij.  uiid 
dtri.-J?;-  «';  i^vjv^"  i);"fHf>  :af'r<'  u- .-Hlvn.  hj»\'oi>.  »«  .lil'.r.hMK 
ih^-  }%uf**^  tSfcTinty;  i.ij{  }t  -A-.iX  MiiKy-hmrf  4.:v  cjis^t  ?««$ 
way  vH'-  ^i;*^  through  a  i:n,*c  fi.)o  w]ih  whir',  it  wa.. 
'n'-^inrsereKt  'JV»  cffft-?  this  ariUinua  opnratioa,  the  sca- 
iiH'U  rn.'jrk'^.Hi  vnth  iM-rjniiug-pikos  Uw  parailu)  linos, «;it 
the  t]istutH'f»  of  isoinewiuit  more  than  tho  breadth  ■>{'  tiio 
larjjTi.r  snip.  They  pawfui,  in  the  nrst  placo,  ^doni;  llio 
j  atli  tracK'.d  Dfit,  nn  J  fht-r;,  Lr  'rs^^-^-sawhig:?,  detacii- d 
!*»?,,;.•  oif^«',eP,  whioh  w^'Pi^  H#»pftr,?it«;?ti  ♦jirpjO}>«l'y.  in  or.l.'r 
i»;.  i(>  ,  'ijfi-tt#*I  <'«t  :  »itJ   >i«.'m<  itifH.-**  fisrHMMsati'*  ^■f't*'.  4-.v«' 


Ft:*'*., 

*>^<r  irJ»^4  t-:ji# 

:  ttd  i»S*;V    fs^t'-JiWi^    orfif^-i'^ 


'*h    from    ihe 
■  ■»'"^'i  round 

i'v*^-  in 


lor  tho  winter.  ,  - 

l*arry  tiuui  ap|yiie{l  hinnst-lf  to  nn-no  thw  varuvj  tfroup 
(f  Islaodrt  a}oi).ii^  which  he  had  pasKed.  Jfe  called  Ifioni, 
•if  first.  New  i.oor«"ia;  i)ut.  recollecting  that  tiiis  yppi't- 
i.-ilioif  v,'{i^  j>i-ooccupied  by  one  in  tfie  Pncitic,  he  pivo 
tiM  Utk-  of  the  •■'  Xortl»  <.Teorjriau  Islands."  in  lion-o  .if 
^*  Ooorg-i    lif.,  vv'h.ose  rei^^ii   had  ht^»u  &<- <'fni- 

}ii  ikk^K    '    •:»t?;«ru'rihed  hy  ihe  <.xt(.iision    ,♦!    .vo''iii  \\m\ 


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J 

PARRY'S  FIRST  VOYAGE. 


89 


Hunting  parties  occasionally  went  out  and  procured 
a  few  reindeer ;  but  a  migration  of  these  animals  took 
place  before  the  close  of  October,  leaving  behind  thoni 
only  wolves  and  foxes  to  keep  the  party  company  dur- 
ing the  long  winter  months.  Even  the  polar  hare,  so 
common  in  the  Arctic  regions,  never  once  showed  itself 
on  Melville  Island  in  the  course  of  the  winter.  The 
musk-ox,  also  very  common  during  its  proper  season, 
arrived  on  Melville  Island  in  the  middle  of  May,  by 
crossing  the  ice  from  the  southward,  and  quitted  it  by 
the  same  way  on  its  return  towards  the  end  of  Septem- 
ber. On  the  15th  the  last  covey  of  ptarmigan  was  met 
with  ;  and  on  the  samo  day  were  seen  fifteen  deer,  all 
lying  down,  except  one  large  one,  probably  a  stag ; 
this,  after  the  rising  of  the  rest,  seemed  to  guard  the 
animals  in  their  flight,  frequently  going  round  the 
herd,  sometimes  striking  them  with  his  horns  to  make 
them  go  on,  which  they  appeared  not  much  inclined  to 
do.  Even  seals  were  not  found  in  this  neighborhood  ; 
but  whales  of  different  kinds  were  commonly  met  with  ; 
gulls  and  ducks,  however,  so  numerous  in  Davis's  Strait 
and  the  Georgian  Islands,  condescended  not  to  visit 
Melville  Island,  but  "  two  or  three  specimens  of  a  cat- 
erpillar were  obtained,  one  of  which  was  brought  to 
England"  —  of  course  as  an  Arctic  curiosity.  One 
large  white  bear,  having  pursued  Captain  Sabine's  ser- 
vant to  the  ship,  was  shot  at  and  wounded,  but  made 
his  escape ;  it  was  the  only  one  met  with  during  the 
stay  of  the  party,  but  described  as  being  more  pure'v 
white  than  any  they  had  before  seen.  A  feeble  willow, 
a  saxifrage,  lichens,  and  stunted  grasses,  constitute 
pretty  nearly  the  Jlora  of  Melville  Island. 

The  total  privation  of  game  of  any  kind  now  afforded 
few  excursions  for  the  exercise  and  amusement  of  hunt- 
Parties,  however,  had  occasionally  been  sent  out 


>g- 


8=* 


90 


PARRY'S  FIRST  VOYAGE. 


shortly  after  the  taking  up  of  their  winter  quarters. 
One  of  these  did  not  return  on  beard  before  sunset,  as 
strictly  ordered,  and  the  consequence  is  stated  to  have 
been  as  follows  : 

"  John  Pearson,  a  marine  belonging  to  the  Griper, 
who  was  the  last  that  returned  on  board,  had  his  hands 
severely  frost-bitten,  havi.ig  imprudently  gone  av/ay 
without  mittens,  and  with  a  musket  in  his  hand.  A 
party  of  our  people  most  providentially  found  him, 
although  the  night  was  very  dark,  just  as  he  had  fallen 
down  a  bank  of  snow,,  and  was  beginning  to  feel  that 
degree  of  torpor  and  drowsiness  which,  if  indulged, 
inevitably  pi.aves  fatal.  When  he  was  brought  on 
board,  his  fingers  were  quite  stiff,  and  bent  into  the 
shape  of  that  part  of  the  musket  wii^'oh  he  had  been 
carrying  ;  and  the  frost  had  so  far  destroyed  the  anima- 
tion in  his  fingers  on  one  hand  that  it  was  necessary  to 
amputate  three  of  them  a  short  time  after,  notwith- 
standing all  the  care  and  attention  paid  to  him  by  the 
medical  gentlemen.  The  eflect  which  exposure  to  se- 
vere frost  has  in  benumbing  the  mental  as  well  as  the 
corporeal  faculties  was  very  striking  in  this  man,  as 
well  as  in  two  of  the  young  gentlemen,  who  returned 
after  dark,  and  of  whom  we  were  anxious  to  make 
inquiries  respecting  Pearson.  When  I  sent  for  them 
into  my  cabin  they  looked  wild,  spoke  thick  and  indis- 
tinctly, and  it  was  impossible  to  draw  from  them  a 
rational  answer  to  any  of  our  questions.  After  being 
on  board  for  a  short  time  the  mental  faculties  appeared 
gradually  to  return  with  the  returning  circulation  ;  and 
it  was  not  till  then  that  a  looker-on  could  easily  per- 
suade himself  that  they  had  not  been  drinking  too 
freely." 

So  early  as  the  29tl.  of  October  the  thermometer  was 
down  to  twenty-four  degrees  below  zero.     It  was  now 


i  I 


PARRY'S  FIRST  VOYAGE. 


91 


distressing  to  touch  any  metallic  substance  with  the 
naked  hand  in  the  open  air :  it  produced  a  feeling  of 
intense  heat,  and  took  off  the  skin.  If  the  eye-piece  of 
a  telescope  touched  the  face,  it  occasioned  an  intense 
burning  pain  ;  the  remedy  was  to  cover  them  and  other 
instruments  with  soft  leather.  The  officers,  notwith- 
standing, indulged  themselves  in  walking  for  an  hour  or 
two  in  the  middle  of  the  day,  in  the  depth  of  winter, 
even  when  the  thermometer  was  down  to  forty  degrees 
or  even  fifty  degrees  belov/  zero,  without  experiencing 
much  inconvenience  from  this  intense  degree  of  cold, 
provided  always  that  there  was  no  wind ;  but  the  least 
breeze  made  the  exposure  to  it  intolerable. 

The  commander,  finding  himself  and  his  ships  shut  in 
for  L  long  and  dreary  winter,  devoted  his  attention, 
with  a  mixture  of  firmness  and  kindness,  to  mitigate 
those  evils  which,  even  in  lower  latitudes,  had  often 
rendered  an  abode  in  the  Arctic  regions  so  fatal,  and  to 
economize  both  the  fresh  provisions  and  fuel. 

From  the  first.  Parry  was  aware  that  nothing  acted 
more  strongly  as  an  antiscorbutic  than  to  keep  the 
men's  minds  in  a  lively  and  cheerful  state.  Arrange- 
ments were  accordingly  made  for  the  occasional  per- 
formance of  a  play,  in  circumstances  certainly  very 
remote  from  any  to  which  the  drama  appeared  conge- 
nial. Lieutenant  Beechey  was  nominated  stage-man- 
ager, and  the  other  gentlemen  came  forward  as  amateur 
performers.  The  very  expectation  thus  raised  among 
the  sailors,  and  the  bustle  of  preparing  a  room  for  the 
purpose,  were  extremely  beneficial ;  and  when  the 
North  Georgian  Theatre  opened  with  "  Miss  in  her 
Teens,"  these  hardy  tars  were  convulsed  with  laughter. 
The  Arctic  management  was  extremely  popular.  The 
officers  had  another  source  of  amusement  in  the  North 
Georgian    Gazette,  of  which   Captain   Sabine   became 


PARRT  'S  FIRST  VOYAGE. 


! 


editor,  and  all  were  invited  to  contribute  to  this  chroni- 
cle of  the  frozen  regions. 

On  the  Ist  and  2d  of  February  the  sun  was  looked 
for,  but  the  sky  was  wrapped  in  mist ;  however,  on  the 
3d  he  was  perceived  ftom  the  maintop  of  the  Ilecla. 

Ilealtli  was  maintained  on  board  the  ships,  by  enforced 
exerci.se  and  other  means,  to  a  surprising  degree.  Early 
in  January,  however,  Mr.  Scallon,  the  gunner,  felt  symp- 
toms, first  in  the  legs,  and  then  in  the  gums,  that  de- 
cidedly indicated  the  presence  of  scurvy,  of  which  the 
immediate  cause  appeared  to  be  the  great  collection  of 
dump  that  had  formed  around  his  bed-place.  At  this 
alarm,  all  the  antiscorbutics  on  board  —  lemon-juice, 
pickles,  and  spruce-beer  —  were  put  into  requisition  ;  a 
small  qur,ntity  of  mustard  and  cress  was  also  raised 
from  mould  placed  over  the  stove-pipe  ;  and  such  was 
the  success  of  these  remedies,  that  in  nine  days  the 
patient  could  walk  without  pain.        '  -   < 

"  Some  of  our  men,"  says  Parry,  "  having,  in  the 
course  of  their  shooting  excursions,  been  exposed  for 
several  hours  to  the  glare  of  the  sun  and  snow,  returned 
at  night  much  affected  with  that  painful  inflammation 
in  the  eyes  occasioned  by  the  reflection  of  intense  light 
from  the  snow,  aided  by  the  warmth  of  the  sun,  and 
called  in  America  '  snow  blindness.'  This  complaint, 
of  which  the  sensation  exactly  resembles  that  produced 
by  large  particles  of  sand  or  dust  in  the  eyes,  is  cured 
by  some  tribes  of  American  Indians  by  holding  them 
over  the  steam  of  warm  water  ;  but  we  found  a  coolinj^ 
wash,  made  by  a  small  quantity  of  acetate  of  lead  mixed 
with  cold  water,  more  efficacious  in  relieving  the  irrita- 
tion, which  was  always  done  in  three  or  four  days, 
even  in  the  most  severe  cases,  provided  the  eyes  were 
carefully  guarded  from  the  light.  As  a  preventive  of 
this  complaint,  a  piece  of  black  crape  was  given  to  each 


fl 


PARRY'S  FIRST  VOYAGK. 


a 


He": 


man,  to  be  worn  as  a  kind  of  Bhort  \  jil  attached  to  the 
hut,,  which  we  found  to  be  very  serviceable.  A  Btill 
mure  convenient  mode,  adopted  by  some  of  tlie  officerri, 
was  found  equally  efficacious  ;  this  consisted  in  taking 
the  glasses  out  of  a  pair  of  spectacles,  and  eubstitutiiig 
black  or  green  crapM,  the  glass  having  been  found  to 
heat  the  eyct?  and  inc  ease  the  irritation." 

On  the  IGth  '  March  the  North  Georgian  Theatre 
was  closed  with  an  appropriate  address,  and  the  general 
attention  was  now  turned  to  the  means  of  extrication 
from  the  ice.  By  the  17 th  of  May  the  seamen  had  so 
far  cut  it  from  around  the  ships  as  to  allow  them  to 
float ;  but  in  the  sea  it  was  still  immovable. 

This  interval  of  painful  inaction  was  employed  by 
Parry  in  an  excursion  across  Melville  Island.  The 
ground  was  still  mostly  covered  with  softened  snow, 
and  even  the  cleared  tracts  were  extremely  desolate, 
though  checkered  by  patches  of  fine  verdure.  Deer 
were  seen  travpising  the  plains  in  considerable  num- 
bers. Towards  the  north  appeared  another  island,  to 
which  was  given  the  name  of  Sabine.  It  was  found 
that  those  parts  of  Melville  Island  which  were  clear  of 
snow  produced  the  dwfirf  willow,  sorrel,  and  poppy, 
and  that  the  moss  was  very  luxuriant.  On  the  second 
day  they  saw  a  pair  of  ducks,  and  killed  seven  ptarn)i- 
gan  ;  sorrel  ana  saxifrage  were  abundant.  The  party 
found  pieces  of  coal  imbedded  in  sandstone  ;  passed  i 
very  extensive,  dreary,  and  uninteresting  level  plain, 
covered  with  snow  ;  and  this  kind  of  ground,  with  occa- 
sional ravines  and  foggy  weather,  continued  for  three 
days,  during  which  they  saw  not  a  living  animal,  except 
one  or  two  flocks  of  geese. 

Arrived  at  Bushman's  Cove,  in  Liddon's  Gulf,  on  the 
western  side  of  Melville  Island,  the  party  found  "  one 
of  the  pleasantest  and  most  habitable  spots  we  had  yet 


94 


PARRY'S  FIROT  VOYAGE. 


IK 


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J 


ill 


seen  in  the  Arctic  regions,  vegetation  being  more 
abundant  and  forward  than  in  any  other  place,  and  the 
situation  sheltered  and  favorable  for  game."  They 
found  here  a  good  deal  of  moss,  grass,  dwart-willow, 
and  saxifrage,  and  Captain  Sabine  met  with  a  ranunculuH 
in  full  flower.  Thus  we  see  that  even  in  this,  the  most 
desolate  region  of  the  earth,  the  superiority  of  the 
western  coast  predominates.  The  hunters  saw  and 
fired  at  a  musk-ox,  but  did  not  kill  him  ;  they  saw  also 
several  golden  plovers.  On  the  15th  of  June  they 
reached  the  ships,  and  were  complimented  by  their  ship- 
mates on  their  good  looks,  and  as  appearing  in  more 
robust  health  than  when  they  departed. 

"Having  observed,"  says  Parry,  "that  the  sorrel 
was  now  so  far  advanced  in  foliage  as  to  be  easily 
gathered  in  sufficient  quantity  for  eating,  I  gave  orders 
that  two  afternoons  in  each  week  should  be  occupied 
by  all  hands  in  collecting  the  leaves  of  this  plant ;  each 
man  being  required  to  bring  in,  for  the  present,  one 
ounce,  to  be  served  in  lieu  of  lemon-juice,  pickles,  and 
dried  herbs,  which  had  been  hitherto  issued.  The 
growth  of  the  sorrel  was  from  this  time  so  quick,  and 
the  quantity  of  it  so  great  on  every  part  of  the  ground 
about  the  harbor,  that  we  shortly  after  sent  the  men  out 
every,  afternoon  for  an  hour  or  two  ;  in  which  time, 
besides  the  advantage  of  a  healthy  v^^alk,  they  could, 
without  difficulty,  pick  nearly  a  pound  each  of  this  valu- 
able antiscorbutic,  of  which  they  were  all  extremely  fond. 

"  By  the  20th  of  June,  the  land  in  the  immediate 
neighborhood  of  the  ships,  and  especially  in  low  and 
sheltered  situations,  was  much  covered  with  the  hand- 
some purple  flower  of  the  saxifraga  oj^positifolia,  which 
was  at  this  time  in  great  perfection,  and  gave  something 
like  cheerfulness  and  animation  to  a  scene  hitherto 
indescribably  dreary  in  its  appearance.  a' 


PARRY'S  FIRST  VOYAGE. 


05 


"The  suddenness  with  which  the  changes  tuko  phice 
durinfT^  tlio  sliort  seuHoii  which  may  be  called  summer  in 
this  climate,  must  appear  very  striking  when  it  ia  re- 
membered that,  for  a  i)art  of  the  first  week  in  Jiuw,  wc; 
were  under  the  necessity  of  thawing  artilicially  the 
Know  which  we  made  use  of  for  water  during  the  early 
part  of  our  journey  to  the  northward  ;  tliat,  during  the 
second  week,  the  ground  was  in  most  parts  so  wet  and 
swampy  that  avo  could  with  dilTiculty  travel  ;  and  tluit, 
had  we  not  returned  before  the  end  of  the  third  week, 
we  should  probably  have  been  prevented  doing  so  for 
some  time,  by  the  impossibility  of  crossing  the  ravines 
without  great  danger  of  being  carried  away  by  the  tor- 
rents,—  an  accidert  that  happened  to  our  hunting  parties 
on  one  or  two  occasions  in  endeavoring  to  return  with 
their  game  to  the  ships." 

By  the  middle  of  June,  pools  were  every-here  formed ; 
the  water  flowed  in  streams,  and  even  in  t  n-rents,  which 
rendered  hunting  and  travelling  unsafe.  There  were 
also  channels  in  which  boats  could  pass  ;  yet,  through- 
out this  month  and  the  following,  the  great  covering  of 
ice  in  the  surrounding  sea  remained  entire,  and  kept  the 
ships  in  harbor. 

On  the  2d  of  August,  however,  the  whole  mass,  by 
one  of  those  sudden  movements  to  which  it  is  liable, 
broke  up,  and  floated  out,  and  the  explorers  had  now 
open  water  in  which  to  pro  secute  their  great  object. 

On  the  15th  they  were  enabled  to  make  a  certain 
advance,  after  which  the  frozen  surface  of  the  ocean 
assumed  a  more  compact  and  impenetrable  aspect  than 
had  ever  before  been  witnessed.  The  officers  ascended 
some  of  the  lofty  heightrf  which  bordered  the  coast ; 
but,  in  a  long  reach  of  sea  to  the  westward,  no  boundary 
was  seen  to  these  icy  barriers.  There  appeared  only 
the  western  extremity  of  Melville  Island,  named  Cape 


X] 


96 


PARRY'S  FIRST  VOYAGE. 


DuiKlaH,  and  in  the  iliHtanco  a  bold  coast,  which  iUvy 
named  Banks's  Land.  As  even  a  brisk  gale  from  the 
east  did  not  prodnce  the  slightest  movement  on  the 
glassy  face  of  the  deep,  they  were  led  to  believe  that 
on  the  other  side  there  must  be  a  large  body  of  land,  by 
which  it  was  held  in  a  fixed  state.  On  considering  all 
circumstances,  there  appeared  no  alternative  but  to 
make  their  way  homeward  while  yet  the  season  per- 
mitted. Some  additional  observations  were  made,  as 
they  returned,  on  the  two  coasts  extending  along  Bar- 
row's Strait. 

Parry's  arrival  in  Britain  was  hailed  with  the  warmest 
exultation.  To  have  sailed  upwards  of  thirty  degrees 
of  longitude  beyond  the  point  reached  by  any  former 
navigator ;  to  have  discovered  so  many  new  lands, 
islands,  and  bays  ;  to  have  established  the  much-con- 
teste^^  existence  of  a  Polar  Sea  north  of  America  ;  finally, 
after  a  wintering  of  eleven  months,  to  have  brought  back 
his  crew  in  a  sound  and  vigorous  state,  were  enough. to 
raise  his  name  above  that  of  any  other  Arctic  voyager. 


ESQVnrAlX    SNOW-HIT. 


CIlArTER    V. 


FIlAfTKLIN'H   FIRST   LAND   KXl'KDITIO.V. — INCIDBXTS.  —  BACK's  JOTJllNKV. — 
8HVERITY      OK     TIIK      WKATIIKIl.  — AlIllOUA      UOUKAMS.  —  ANKCDOTKS. — 

8UKVKY     OF   TUB     COAST.  nKTUBN     TKIP. SlJFKKIUNfiS.  —  MI'IUIKROF 

Ull.     UOOD.  —  DEATHS. —  UNEXI'ECTEU     RELIEF.  —  ARRIVAL     AT      YOHK 
FACTORY. 


In  September  of  the  same  year  tliat  Parry  sailed,  an 
overland  expedition  started  from  York  Factory,  Hud- 
son's Bay,  under  charge  of  Sir  John  Franklin,  accompa- 
nied by  Dr.  (now  Sir  John)  Richardson,  two  midshipmen, 
—  Messrs.  Back  and  Hood,  —  and  Ile})burn,  a  seaman, 
with  the  object  of  exploring  the  north  coast  of  America 
to  its  eastern  extremity  from  the  mouth  of  the  Copper- 
mine, There  was  a  chance  that  Parry  might  make  for 
the  coast  in  his  ships  ;  and,  if  so,  the  two  parties  would 
have  cooperated  with  mutual  advantage. 

On  the  19th  of  January,  1820,  Franklin  set  out  in 
company  with  Mr.  Back,  and  a  seaman  named  Hepburn, 
with  provisions  for  fifteen  days  stowed  in  two  sledges, 
on  their  journey  to  Fort  Chipewyan.  Dr.  P.ichardcon, 
Mr.  Hood,  and. Mr.  Connolly, -accompanied  them  a  short 
distance.  After  touching  at  difierent  posts  of  the  com- 
pany, they  reached  their  destination  safely  on  the  26th 
of  March,  after  a  winter's  journey  of  eight  hundred  and 
fifty-seven  miles.  The  greatest  diflBculty  experienced 
by  the  travellers  was  the  labor  of  walking  in  snow- 
shoes,  a  weight  of  between  two  and  three  pounds  being 
constantly  attached  to  galled  feet  and  swelled  ankles. 

Of  the  state  of  the  temperature  during  this  journey 
ft 


ws 


FRANKLIN'S  FIRST  LAND  EXPEDITION. 


/ 


••:a 


I  m '' 


w 


■w 


I 


there  is  no  record,  for  a  reason  explained  by  Franklin, 
who  says  that  "this  evening  (18th  of  January)  we 
found  the  mercury  of  our  thermometer  had  sunk  into 
the  bulb,  and  was  frozen." 

On  the  15th  of  April  the  first  shower  of  rain  fell ;  and 
on  the  lYth  the  thermometer  rose  to  7*1°  in  the  shade. 
The  return  of  the  swans,  geese,  and  ducks,  now  gave 
certain  indications  of  spring.  The  warm  weather,  by 
the  sudden  melting  of  the  snow  and  ice,  deluged  the 
face  of  the  country.  Mr.  Hood  says  :  "The  noise  made 
by  the  frogs  which  this  inundation  produced  is  almost 
incredible.  There  is  strong  reason  to  believe  that  they 
outlive  the  severity  of  winter.  They  have  often  been 
found  frozen,  and  revived  by  warmth  ;  nor  is  it  possible 
that  the  multitude  which  incessantly  filled  our  ears  with 
their  discordant  notes  could  have  been  matured  in  two 
or  three  days." 

Captain  Franklin  also  notices  the  resuscitation  of 
fishes  after  being  frozen  :  "  It  may  be  worthy  of  notice 
here,  that  the  fish  froze  as  they  were  taken  out  of  the 
nets,  and  in  a  short  time  became  a  solid  mass  of  ice, 
and  by  a  blow  or  two  of  the  hatchet  were  easily  split 
open,  when  the  intestines  might  be  removed  in  one 
lump.  If,  in  this  completely  frozen  state,  they  were 
thawed  before  the  fire,  they  recovered  their  animation. 
This  was  particularly  the  case  with  the  carp ;  and  we 
had  occasion  to  observe  it  repeatedly,  as  Dr.  Richardson 
occupied  himself  in  examining  the  structure  of  the  dif- 
ferent species  of  fish,  and  was  always,  in  the  winter, 
under  the  necessity  of  thawing  them  befbre  he  could  cut 
them.  We  have  seen  a  carp  recover  so  far  as  to  leap 
about  with  much  vigor  after  it  had  been  frozen  for 
thirty-six  hours."  It  maybe  stated  tl.at  the  same  eflcct 
is  produced  on  the  insect  tribe. 

Franklin  and  his  party,  increased  by  the  addition  of 


FRANKLIN'S  FIRST  LAND  EXPEDITION. 


I 


Bixteen  Canadian  voyageurs,  interpreters,  &c.,  left  Fort 
Chipewyan  in  July,  1820,  for  Fort  Enterprise,  on  Win- 
ter Lake,  more  than  five  hundred  miles  distant.  Here, 
after  walking  eighty  miles  to  get  a  look  at  the  Copper- 
mine, they  wintered,  while  Mr.  (now  Sir  George)  Back 
returned  on  foot  to  Fort  Chipewyan,  to  expedite  the 
transit  of  stores  required  for  the  next  year's  operations. 
At  the  end  of  five  months  he  rejoined  his  companions, 
after  a  journey  which  put  his  powers  of  endurance  to  a 
severe  test. 

Some  interesting  instances  of  Indian  generosity  are 
recorded  in  the  report  of  Back's  long  and  perilous  jour- 
ney.  "  One  of  the  women  caught  a  fine  pike,  by  making 
a  hole  in  the  ice,  which  she  gave  to  us  ;  the  Indians 
positively  refused  to  partake  of  it,  from  the  idea  (as  we 
afterwards  learned)  that  we  should  not  have  sufficient 
for  ourselves.  '  We  are  accustomed  to  starvation,'  said 
they,  'but  you  are  not.'  "  ■  \  t 

Back,  in  this  dreadful  journey,  was  not  only  exposed 
to  starvation  and  the  extremity  of  cold,  but  also  to 
the  danger  of  perishing  in  some  of  the  lakes  which  they 
had  to  cross  on  foot.  On  a  narrow  branch  of  the  Slave 
Lake  he  fell  through  the  ice,  but  escaped  without 
injury  ;  on  another  occasion  the  ice  bent  so  that  it 
required  the  utmost  speed  to  avoid  falling  through 
where  it  gave  way,  as  it  seems  to  have  done  at  every 
step  he  took.  In  short,  it  was  little  less  than  miracu- 
lous, considering  the  season  and  the  severity  of  the 
winter,  that  he  ever  returned  safe ;  which,  however,  he 
had  thp  good  fortune  to  do  on  the  ITth  of  March,  when 
he  arrived  at  Fort  Enterprise,  where,  he  says,  "  I  had 
the  pleasure  of  meeting  my  friends  all  in  good  health, 
after  an  absence  of  nearly  five  months,  during  which 
time  I  had  travelled  eleven  hundred  and  four  miles  on 
snow-shoes,  and  had  no  other  covering,  at  night,  in  the 


100 


FRANKLIN'S  FIRST  LAND  EXPEDITION. 


woods,  than  a  blanket  and  deer-skin,  with  the  thermom- 
eter frequently  at — 40°,  and  once  at  — 57°,  and  some- 
times passing  two  or  three  days  without  tasting  food." 

Franklin  gives  the  following  statement  in  regard  to 
the  severity  of  the  weather  in  December :  "  The  weather 
during  this  month  was  the  coldest  we  experienced  dur- 
ing our  residence  in  America.  The  thermometer  sank 
on  one  occasion  to  51°  below  zero,  and  never  rose 
beyond  6°  above  it ;  the  mean  for  the  month  was 
— 29°-'7.  During  these  intense  colds,  however,  the 
atmosphere  was  generally  calm,  and  the  wood-cutters 
and  others  went  about  their  ordinary  occupations  with- 
out using  any  extraordinary  precautions,  yet  without 
feeling  any  bad  .effects.  The  heat  is  abstracted  most 
rapidly  from  the  body  during  strong  breezes  ;  and  most 
of  those  who  have  perished  from  cold  in  this  country 
have  fallen  a  sacrifice  to  their  being  overtaken  on  a 
lake,  or  other  unsheltered  place,  by  a  storm  of  wind. 
The  intense  colds  were,  however,  detrimental  to  us  in 
another  way.  The  trees  froze  to  their  very  centres,  and 
became  as  hard  as  stones,  and  more  difficult  to  cut. 
Some  of  the  axes  were  broken  daily,  and  by  the  end  of 
the  month  we  had  only  one  left  that  was  fit  for  felling 
trees." 

The  aurora  borealis  made  its  appearance  frequently, 
with  more  or  less  brilliancy,  but  was  not  particularly 
remarkable  ;  in  the  month  of  December  it  was  visible 
twenty-eight  of  the  long  nights. 

The  Indians,  it  appears,  have  nearly  destroyed  the 
fur-bearing  animals  ;  and  so  scarce  is  the  beaver  bpcome, 
that  in  the  whole  journey  to  the  shores  of  the  Polar  Sea 
and  back,  one  single  habitation,  and  one  dam  only,  of 
that  industrious  and  ingenious  creature,  were  met  with. 
Among  the  many  interesting  anecdotes  that  have  been 
told  of  this  animal.  Dr.  Richardson  relates  the  following : 


■^ 


FRANKLIN'S  FIRST  LAND  EXPEDITION. 


101 


"  One  day  a  gentleman,  long  resident  in  this  coun- 
try, espied  five  young  beavers  sporting  in  the  water, 
leaping  upon  the  trunk  of  a  tree,  pushing  one  another 
off,  and  playing  a  thousand  interesting  tricks.  He 
approached  softly,  u.  ler  cover  of  the  bushes,  and  pre- 
pared to  fire  on  the  unsuspecting  creatures ;  but  a 
nearer  approach  discovered  to  him  such  a  similitude 
between  their  gestures  and  the  infantile  caresses  of  his 
own  children,  that  he  threw  aside  his  gun.  This  gen- 
tleman's feelings  are  to  be  envied,  but  few  traders  in 
furs  would  have  acted  so  feelingly." 

On  the  last  day  of  June,  1821,  the  whole  party  having 
dragged  their  canoes  and  baggage  to  the  bank  of  the 
Coppermine,  —  a  tedious  and  fatiguing  service,  —  em- 
barked on  the  rapid  stream,  and  reached  the  sea  on  the 
I8th  July.  The  main  object  of  the  expedition  then 
commenced ;  and,  with  two  birch-bark  canoes,  each 
manned  by  ten  men,  and  fifteen  days'  provision,  Frank- 
lin paddled  to  the  eastward. 

Proceeding  along  the  coast  on  the  inside  of  a  crowded 
range  of  islands,  they  encamped  on  shore  after  a  run  of 
thirty-seven  miles,  in  which  they  experienced  little  inter- 
ruption. The  coast  was  found  of  moderate  height,  easy 
of  access,  and  covered  with  vegetation  ;  but  the  islands 
were  rocky  and  barren,  presenting  high  cliffs,  of  a  col- 
umnar structure.  In  continuing  their  voyage,  the  dan- 
gers which  beset  a  navigator  in  these  dreadful  polar 
solitudes  thickened  gloomily  around  them.  The  coast 
became  .broken  and  sterile,  and  at  length  rose  into  a 
high  and  rugged  promontory,  against  which  some  largo 
masses  of  ice  had  drifted,  threatening  destruction  to 
their  slender  canoes. 

In  attempting  to  round  this  cape  the  wind  rose,  an 
awful  gloom  involved  the  sky,  and  the  thunder  burst 
over  their  heads,  compelling  them  to  encamp  till  the 
9*  • 


102 


FRANKLIN'S  FIRST  LAND  EXPEDITION. 


Btorin  subsided.  They  then,  at  the  imminent  risk  of 
having  the  eanoes  crushed  by  the  floating  ice,  doubled 
the  dreary  promontory,  which  they  denominated  Cape 
Barrow,  and  entered  Detention  Harbor,  where  tlicy 
landed.  Around  them  the  land  consisted  of  mountains 
of  granite,  rising  abruptly  from  the  water's  edge,  desti- 
tute of  vegetation,  and  attaining  an  elevation  of  four- 
teen or  fifteen  hundred  feet ;  seals  and  small  deer  were 
the  only  anima!'  seen,  and  the  former  were  so  shy  that 
all  attempts  to  approach  within  shot  were  unsuccessful. 

With  the  deer  the  hunters  were  more  fortunate,  but 
these  were  not  numerous ;  and,  while  the  ice  closed 
gradually  around  them,  and  their  little  stock  of  pro- 
visions every  day  diminished,  it  was  impossible  not  to 
regard  their  situation  with  uneasiness.  Rounding  Cape 
Kater,  they  entered  Arctic  Sound,  and  sent  a  party  to 
explore  a  river  upon  the  banks  of  which  they  expected 
to  find  an  Esquimaux  encampment.  All,  however,  was 
silent,  desolate,  and  deserted ;  even  these  hardy  na- 
tives, bred  amidst  the  polar  ices,  had  removed  from  so 
barren  a  spot,  and  the  hunters  returned  with  two  small 
deer  and  a  brown  bear,  the  latter  animal  so  lean  and 
sickly-looking  that  the  men  declined  eating  it ;  but  the 
officers  boiled  its  paws,  and  found  them  excellent. 

Proceeding  along  the  eastern  shore  of  Arctic  Sound, 
to  which  they  gave  the  name  of  Banks's  Peninsula  the 
expedition  made  its  painful  way  along  a  coast  indented 
by  bays,  and  in  many  places  studded  with  islands,  till, 
on  the  10th  of  August,  they  reached  the  open  sea ;  and 
sailing,  as  they  imagined,  between  the  continent  and  a 
large  island,  found,  to  their  deep  disappointment,  that, 
instead  of  an  open  channel,  they  were  in  the  centre  of  a 
vast  bay. 

The  state  of  the  expedition  now  called  for  the  most 
serious  consideration  upon  the  part  of  their  commander. 


FRANKLIN'S  FIRST  LAND  EXPEDITION. 


103 


lound, 
lla  the 
lented 
is,  till, 
;  and 
and  a 
i,  that, 
Ire  of  a 

most 
lander. 


So  much  time  had  already  been  spent  in  exploring  the 
sounds  and  inlets,  that  all  hope  of  reaching  Repulse  IJay 
was  vain  ;  both  canoes  had  sustained  material  injury  ; 
the  fuel  was  expended  ;  their  provisions  were  sufficient 
only  for  three  days  ;  the  appearances  of  the  setting  in 
of  the  Arctic  winter  were  too  unequivocal  to  be  mistaken  ; 
the  deer,  which  had  hitherto  supplied  them  with  fresh 
meat,  would,  it  was  well  known,  soon  disappear  ;  the 
geese  and  other  aquatic  birds  were  already  seen  winging 
their  way  to  the  southward ;  while  the  men,  who  had 
up  to  this  moment  displayed  the  utmost  courage,  began 
to  look  disheartened,  and  to  entertain  serious  apprehen- 
sions for  their  safety.  Under  these  circumstances,  the 
leaders  resolved  to  return.  After  spending  four  days 
in  a  careful  survey  of  the  bay,  they  terminated  their 
exploration  at  a  spot  which,  with  literal  truth,  was 
named  Point  Turnagain,  a  distance,  reckoning  the 
indentations  of  the  shore,  of  five  hundred  and  fifty-five 
geographical  miles.  To  attempt  to  reach  the  Copper- 
mine so  late  in  the  season  would  have  been  fatal  to  the 
whole  of  the  party ;  they,  therefore,  made  for  Hood's 
River,  discovered  by  them  a  few  days  previously,  up 
which  they  had  ascended  to  the  first  rapid  by  the  26th 
of  August.  Two  small  portable  canoes  were  then  con- 
structed from  the  two  larger  ones,  for  the  purpose  of 
crossing  rivers  on  the  journey  now  before  them ;  and, 
on  the  1st  of  September,  they  set  off  on  a  straight  course 
for  Fort  Enterprise,  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  distant. 
The  fatigues  and  privations  endured  on  this  route  are 
scarcely  to  be  paralleled  ;  short  of  food,  ill  supplied 
with  clothing,  and  exposed  to  the  howling  severity  of 
the  climate,  the  escape  of  any  one  of  the  number  appears 
almost  a  miracle.  Some  days,  when  there  was  nothing 
to  eat,  and  no  means  of  making  a  fire,  they  passed 
entirely  in  bed ;  on  others,  after  a  weary  and  exhaust- 


104 


FRANKLIN'S  FIRST  LAND  EXPEDITION. 


iug  travel,  their  only  nourishment  on  halting  for  the 
night  was  tripe  de  roche,  or  rock-tripe,  a  species  of 
lichen,  a  plant  of  most  nauseous  taste,  and  the  cause  of 
cruel  bowel  complaints  to  the  whole  party.  Daily  they 
became  weaker,  and  less  capable  of  exertion  ;  one  of  the 
canoes  was  so  much  broken  by  a  fall,  that  it  was  burned 
to  cook  a  supper ;  the  resource  of  fishing,  too,  was 
denied  them,  for  some  of  the  men,  in  the  recklessness 
of  misery,  threw  away  the  nets.  Rivers  were  to  be 
crossed  by  wading,  or  in  the  canoe :  on  one  of  these 
occasions  PVanklin  took  his  seat  with  two  of  the  voya- 
geurs  in  their  frail  bark,  when  they  were  driven  by  the 
force  of  the  stream  and  the  wind  to  the  verge  of  a  fright- 
ful rapid,  in  which  the  canoe  upset,  and,  but  for  a  rock 
on  which  they  found  footing,  they  would  there  have  per- 
ished. On  the  19th,  "  previous  to  setting  out,  the 
whole  party  ate  the  remains  of  their  old  shoes,  and 
whatever  scraps  of  leather  they  had,  to  strengthen  their 
stomachs  for  the  fatigue  of  the  day's  journey.  These," 
adds  Franklin,  "  would  have  satisfied  us  in  ordinary 
times,  but  we  were  now  almost  exhausted  by  slender 
fare  and  travel,  and  our  appetites  had  become  ravenous. 
We  looked,  however,  with  humble  confidence  to  the 
great  Author  and  Giver  of  all  good  for  a  continuance 
of  the  support  which  had  hitherto  been  always  supplied 
to  us  at  our  greatest  need." 

A  day  or  two  afterwards  the  remaining  canoe  was  left 
behind  ;  no  entreaties  could  prevail  on  the  men  to  carry 
it  further.  Dr.  Richardson,  too,  was  obliged  to  abandon 
his  collection  of  plants  and  minerals,  from  inability  to 
endure  the  burthen.  The  killing  of  five  small  deer  at 
this  time,  however,  enabled  them  to  rest  for  a  couple  of 
days  to  recruit  their  exhausted  strength.  On  the  26th 
they  came  to  the  Coppermine,  the  crossing  of  which, 
owing  to  their  weak  condition,  the  loss  of  the  canoe, 


lilANKLIN'S  FIRST   LAND  EXPEDITION. 


105 


as  left 
carry 
andon 
ity  to 
eer  at 
leof 
26th 
hich, 
noe, 


and  having  to  construct  a  raft  of  willow  branches, 
detained  them  until  the  4th  of  October.  Dr.  Richard- 
son, actuated  by  the  noble  desire  of  makings  a  last  effort 
for  the  safety  of  the  party,  and  of  relieving  his  sufllcring 
companions  from  a  state  of  misery,  which  could  oidy 
terminate,  and  tliat  speedily,  in  death,  volunteered  to 
make  the  attempt  to  swim  across  the  stream,  carrying 
with  him  a  line  by  which  the  raft  might  bo  hauled 
over. 

"  He  launched  into  the  stream,"  says  Franklin,  "  with 
the  line  round  his  middle,  but  when  he  had  got  to  a 
sliort  distance  from  the  opposite  bank,  his  arms  became 
benumbed  with  cold,  and  ho  lost  the  power  of  moving 
them  ;  still  he  persevered,  and,  turning  on  his  back,  had 
nearly  gained  the  opposite  shore,  when  his  legs  also 
became  powerless,  and,  to  our  infinite  alarm,  we  beheld 
him  sink.  We  instantly  hauled  upon  the  line,  and  ho 
came  again  on  the  surface,  and  was  gradually  drawn 
ashore  in  au  almost  lifeless  state.  Being  rolled  up  in 
blankets,  he  was  placed  before  a  good  fire  of  willows, 
and,  fortunately,  was  just  able  to  speak  suflficiently  to 
give  some  slight  directions  respecting  the  manner  of 
treating  him.  He  recovered  strength  gradually,  and, 
through  the  blessing  of  God,  was  enabled,  in  the  course 
of  a  few  hours,  to  converse,  and  by  the  evening  was 
sufficiently  recovered  to  remove  into  the  tent.  We  then 
regretted  to  learn  tliat  the  skin  of  his  whole  left  side 
was  deprived  of  feeling,  in  consequence  of  exposure  to 
too  great  heat.  He  did  not  perfectly  recover  the  sensa- 
tion of  that  side  until  the  following  summer.  I  cannot 
describe  what  every  one  felt  at  beholding  the  skeleton 
which  the  doctor's  debilitated  frame  exhibited.  When 
he  stripped,  the  Canadiaiis  simultaneously  exclaimed, 
*Ahl  que  nous  sommes  maigres!'"  They  were  now 
almost  in  the  last  stage  of  starvation ;  and,  had  it  not 


106 


FRANKLIN'S  FIRST  LAND  EXPEDITION. 


1 
f 


■■      5 


been  for  the  exertions  of  Repburn  in  collecting  tripe  de 
roche,  not  one  of  them  wonlcl  have  survived. 

On  the  Vth,  when  at  twenty-four  miles  from  Fort 
Enterprise,  a  division  of  the  party  took  place  :  Franklin, 
with  eight  of  the  men,  went  on,  while  Richardsoa  stayed 
behind  at  the  encampment  to  tend  on  Hood,  who  was 
scarcely  able  to  move.  Hepburn  remained  with  them. 
Franklin  was  most  unwilling  to  part  with  any  of  his  com- 
rades, but  saw  the  necessity  of  doing  so.  "  And,  after," 
he  says,  "  we  had  united  in  thanksgiving  and  prayers  to 
almighty  God,  I  separated  from  my  companions,  deeply 
afflicted  that  a  train  of  melancholy  circumstances  should 
have  demanded  of  me  the  severe  trial  of  parting,  in  such 
a  condition,  from  friends  who  had  become  endeared  to 
me  by  their  constant  kindness  and  cooperation,  and  a 
participation  of  numerous  sufferings," 

Three  of  the  voyageurs,  unable  to  proceed  with 
Franklin,  and  Michel,  an  Iroquois,  were  permitted  to 
return  to  the  halting-place,  where  they  would  be  at 
least  certain  of  fire  and  rock-tripe  ;  but,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  Indian,  they  perished  by  the  way  —  not  one 
of  them  was  ever  seen  again.  Franklin,  with  his  five 
survivors,  reached  Fort  Enterprise  on  the  11th.  What 
a  disappointment  awaited  them  !  Instead  of  a  cordial 
welcome  from  friendly  hunters,  and  abundance  of  pro- 
visions, as  had  been  promised,  all  was  a  blank ;  the 
building  was  tenantless. 

A  note  was  found  from  Mr.  Back,  who  had  journeyed 
on  in  advance,  stating  that  he  had  gone  in  search  of  the 
Indians,  and,  if  need  were,  to  Fort  Providence.  This 
was  but  poor  comfort  for  the  famished  travellers,  who 
were  obliged  to  take  up  their  quarters  in  the  dilapidated 
edifice.  The  rubbish-heaps  concealed  beneath  the  snow 
were  searched  for  old  skins,  bones,  or  any  kind  of  ofial 
that  might  serve  as  food  when  stewed  with  rock-tripe. 


FRANKLIN'S   FIRST   LAND   EXPEDITION. 


107 


A  grood  fire  was  a  luxury  seldom  enjoyed,  for  they  had 
scarcely  strength  to  collect  wood. 

Eighteen  weary  days  were  passed  in  these  painful 
privations,  wlien  the  monotony  was  interrupted  by  the 
arrival  of  Dr.  Richardson  and  Hepburn.  Their  ema- 
ciated countenances  gave  evidence  of  their  debilitated 
state.  "  The  doctor  particularly  remarked  the  sepulchral 
tones  of  our  voices,  which  he  requested  of  us  to  make 
more  cheerful,  if  possible,  unconscious  that  his  own 
partook  of  the  same  key."  A  partridge  which  Hepburn 
had  shot  was  held  to  the  fire,  and  then  divided  into  six 
portions.  "  I  and  my  three  companions,'  says  Frank- 
lin, "  ravenously  devoured  our  sliares,  as  it  was  the 
first  morsel  of  flesh  any  of  us  had  tasted  for  thirhj-one 
days,  unless,  indeed,  the  small,  gristly  particles  which 
we  found  occasionally  adhering  to  the  pounded  bones 
may  be  called  flesh,"  Richardson  brought  the  melan- 
choly intelligence  that  Mr.  Hood  and  the  Iroquois  were 
both  dead.  Michel,  in  a  fit  of  sullen  spite,  to  which 
uncivilized  natures  are  liable,  had  shot  the  young  and 
talented  officer  at  the  encampment  where  they  had  last 
parted ;  and  his  demeanor  towards  the  two  survivors 
becoming  more  and  more  threatening,  the  doctor,  under 
the  imperious  instinct  of  self-preservation,  took  upon 
himself  the  responsibility  of  putting  the  Indian  to  death 
by  a  pistol-shot.  As  afterwards  appeared,  there  was 
reason  to  believe  that  two  of  the  missing  voyageurs  had 
also  been  murdered  by  the  Iroquois. 

Two  others  of  the  wretched  party  died  on  the  second 
day  after  Richardson's  arrival  at  the  fort.  At  last,  on 
the  Tth  of  November,  relief  came,  borne  by  three  In- 
dians sent  by  Mr.  Back.  The  messengers  proved  them- 
selves 1  lost  kind,  assiduous  attendants,  "  evincing 
humanity  that  would  have  done  honor  to  the  most  civil- 
ized people."     And,  with  good  fires  and  sufficient  food, 


108 


rilAX KLIN'S   FIRST   LAND   EXPEDITION. 


the  suflbrcrs  began  to  recover  strength.  A  week  later, 
thoy  were  al)le  to  set  out  for  Fort  Chipewyan,  where 
tliey  reniained  until  June  of  the  following  year.  In 
July  they  reached  York  Factory,  from  whence  they  had 
started  three  years  before ;  and  thus  terminated  a  jour- 
ney of  live  tiiousand  five  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  during 
which  human  courage  and  patience  were  exposed  to 
trials  such  as  few  can  bear  with  fortitude,  unless,  as  is 
seen  in  Franklin's  interesting  narrative,  it  arises  out  of 
reliance  on  the  over-sustaining  care  of  an  Almighty 
Providence. 


SIU   JOHN   ''RANKLIN. 


"i 


rr:    ■    ,    •  /•  >    ;-r* 

' '     M 

• 

• 

- 

CHAPTER 

VI. 

parry's 

SECOND 

VOYAGE.  —  ARRIVAL    AT 

uudson's 

STRAIT 

—  repulse 

BAY.— 

BAFFLING   NAVIGATION.  —  ESQUIMAUX    FRIENDS. — 

ARCTIC   CLI-                                          j 

MATK.  - 

-FROZEN    UP AMUSEMENTS. — 

ILIGLIUK.  - 

—  lyon's  journey. 

—  8M0W  HUTS. 

LAND  EXCURSIONS. HARUOR  AT  lOLOOIK. 

—  ANOTHER 

WINTER 

.  —  PARHELIA.  —  RETURN   UOME.  - 

—  parry's 

THIRD 

VOYAGE. 

The  possibility  of  entering  the  Polar  Sea  having 
been  proved  by  Parry's  first  voyage,  it  was  considered 
that  the  north-west  passage  might  probably  be  effected 
in  a  lower  latitude  than  that  of  Melville  Island,  where 
the  icy  barrier  had  proved  impassable.  Parry  accord- 
ingly was  sent  out  a  second  time  with  the  Hecla  and 
Fury,  in  May,  1821,  with  instructions  to  make  for  Re- 
pulse Bay  by  way  of  Hudson's  Strait.  The  former  never 
having  been  fully  examined,  it  was  supposed  that  some 
opening  would  be  found  leading  from  it  to  the  ocean 
beyond. 

Parry,  now  promoted  to  the  rank  of  captain,  hoisted 
his  flag  on  board  the  Fury,  while  Captain  Lyon,  already 
distinguished  by  his  services  in  Africa,  received  the 
command  of  the  Hecla.  The  equipment,  the  victualling, 
and  the  heating  of  the  vessels,  were  all  accomplished 
with  the  greatest  care,  and  with  various  improvements 
suggested  by  experience. 

The  adventurers  quitted  the  Nore  on  the  8th  of  May, 
1821,  passed  through  the  Pentland  Frith  and  by  Cape 
Farewell,  and  on  the  2d  of  July  were  at  the  mouth  of 
I^  idson's   Strait.      Parry,   accustomed   as   he   was  to 

10 


no 


PARRVS  Sl'CONl)   VOYAOf:. 


viowfl  of  polar  doHolation,  waH  RtriK.'k  with  tlio  oxcood- 
iiig-ly  dreary  aspc(;t  which  thoHo  shores  prosontod.  TIm; 
naked  rocks,  the  snow  still  covering-  the  valleys,  and 
the  thick  logs  that  hung  over  them,  rendered  the  scene 
indescribably  gloomy.  The  ships  were  soon  surrounded 
by  icebergs,  amounting  to  the  number  of  lifty-four, 
one  of  which  rose  at  least  two  hundred  and  fifty-eight 
feet  above  the  sea.  They  were  attend(»d  by  large  Hoes, 
and  rendered  very  formidable  by  their  rotatory  motion. 

In  spite  of  every  obstruction,  Tarrj^  early  in  August, 
reached  the  entrance  of  Fox's  Cliannol,  and  came  in 
view  of  Southampton  Island.  It  was  now  the  question 
whether  to  sail  directly  up  this  inlet,  and  reach,  by  a 
comparatively  short  route,  Repulse  Bay  and  the  higher 
latitudes,  or  to  make  the  south-western  circuit  of  South- 
ampton Island,  and  ascend  the  beaten  track  of  the  Wel- 
come. Parry  judiciously  preferred  the  former,  notwith- 
standing its  uncertainties,  on  account  of  the  great  time 
which  would  be  saved  should  the  course  be  found  prac- 
ticable. On  the  15th  he  came  to  an  opening  stretching 
westward,  and  apparently  separating  the  island  from 
other  land  on  the  north.  Hoping  to  find  this  the  Frozen 
Strait  of  Middleton,  he  entered  it ;  but  it  soon  proved 
a  spacious  and  beautiful  basin,  enclosed  by  land  on 
every  side.  lie  named  it  the  Duke  of  York's  Bay,  and 
considered  it  one  of  the  finest  harbors  in  the  world ; 
but,  after  ndmiring  a  large  floe  covered  entirely  with 
minerals,  shells,  and  plants,  he  moved  out  of  it,  and 
pursued  the  voyage. 

On  the  21st  the  navigators  found  themselves  in 
another  strait,  not  much  encumbered  with  ice,  but  dark- 
ened by  thick  fogs ;  and  before  they  knew  distinctly 
where  they  were,  a  heavy  swell  from  the  southward 
showed  that  they  had  already  passed  through  the 
Frozen  Strait,  and  were  in  the  broad  channel  of  the 


PARRY'S  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


Ill 


from 

rozen 

Droved 

11(1  on 

,  and 

vorld ; 

with 

;,  and 

es  in 
dark- 
inctly 
iward 
the 
f  the 


Wolcome.  Thoy  Hpecdily  entered  Ucpulse  liay,  in 
which  inodorii  specuhition  had  clioriishcMl  the  hope  of  a 
paKH.'igo  ;  but  a  Khf)rt  invoHtigation  iiukU;  by  boats  in 
every  direction  proved  tliat  it  was  really,  as  Mi(hUeto!i 
liad  described  it,  coinpUHely  enclosed.  A  good  deal  of 
time  had  thus  been  lost  through  the  scepticism  so  un- 
justly attached  to  the  narrative  of  that  eminent  seaman. 

The  appearance  of  the  shores  of  Repulse  IJay  was  I'ar 
from  uninviting.  "The  surrounding  land  rose  from  six 
or  seven  hundred  to  a  thousand  feet,  and  there  was  no 
want  of  vegetation  usually  found  in  this  part  of  the 
Arctic  regions,  and  in  many  parts  it  was  extremely  lux- 
uriant." Reindeer  and  hares  were  plentiful;  so  were 
ducks,  dovekios,  and  snow-buntings.  Several  black 
wlialos  also  were  observed  in  the  bay.  In  one  spot  the 
remains  of  no  less  than  sixty  Esquimaux  habitations 
were  found,  consisting  of  stones  laid  one  over  the  oth^r, 
in  very  regular  circles,  eight  or  nine  feet  in  diameter  ; 
besides  about  a  hundred  artificial  structures,  fireplaces, 
store-houses,  and  other  walled  enclosures  four  or  five 
feet  high,  used  for  keeping  their  skin  canoes  frcjm  being 
gnawed  by  the  dogs.  In  various  parts  of  the  shore 
were  found  numbers  of  circles  of  stones,  which  were 
supposed  to  have  been  burying-places,  a  human  skull 
being  found  near  one  of  them. 

Leaving  Repuioe  Bay,  Parry  began  the  career  of  dis- 
covery along  a  coast  hitherto  unknown.  An  inlet  was 
soon  observed,  and  called  by  the  name  of  Gore  ;  but 
was  not  found  to  extend  far  into  the  interior.  At  the 
mouth  of  this  opening,  the  valleys  were  richly  clad 
with  grass  and  moss,  the  birds  singing,  butterflies  and 
other  insects  displaying  the  most  gaudy  tints,  so  that 
the  sailors  might  have  fancied  themselves  in  some  hap- 
pier climate,  had  not  the  mighty  piles  of  ice  in  the 
Frozen  Strait  told  a  different  tale.  ,      .        ^  ^ 


112 


PARRY'S    SECOND  VOYAGE. 


Having  passed  Gore  Inlet,  the  discoverers  found 
themselves  among  those  numerous  isles  described  by 
Middleton,  which  formed  a  complete  labyrinth  of  various 
shapes  and  sizes,  while  strong  currents  setting  between 
them  in  various  directions,  amid  fogs  and  drifting  ice, 
rendered  the  navigation  truly  perilous.  However,  one 
channel  was  observed,  by  which  the  mariners  at  last 
made  their  way  through  this  perilous  maze.  No  sooner 
had  they  reached  the  open  sea,  than,  being  obliged  to 
run  before  a  strong  northerly  breeze,  they  were  much 
disheartened  to  find  themselves,  on  the  3d  of  Septem- 
ber, at  the  very  point  which  they  had  left  on  the  6th  of 
August.  All  the  interval  had  been  employed  in  the 
merely  negative  discoveiy,  that  there  was  nothing  to 
discover. 

The  commander  soon  reached  the  northern  coast,  and 
resumed  his  task,  which  was  rendered  very  tedious  by 
the  necessity  of  examining  every  opening  and  channel, 
in  the  hope  that  each  might  prove  the  desired  passage 
into  the  Polar  Ocean.  He  first  explored  a  large  inlet, 
the  name  of  which  he  gave  to  Captain  Lyon  ;  then  a 
smaller  one,  which  was  named  from  Lieutenant  Hopp- 
ner  ;  and  by  connecting  these  with  Gore  Inlet,  he  com- 
pleted his  delineation  of  the  coast. 

The  seamen  had  the  pleasure  of  opening  a  traffic  with 
a  party  of  Esquimaux,  whose  first  timidity  was  soon 
overcome  by  the  hope  of  being  supplied  with  some  iron 
tools.  In  the  course  of  this  transaction,  the  surprise 
of  the  crew  was  roused  by  the  conduct  of  a  lady,  who 
had  sold  one  boot,  but  obstinately  retained  the  other, 
in  disregard  of  the  strongest  remonstrances  as  to  the 
ridiculous  figure  she  in  consequence  made.  At  length 
suspicion  rose  to  such  a  pitch,  that,  all  courtesy  being 
sot  aside,  her  person  was  seized,  and  the  buskin  pulled 
off.     Then,  indeed,  it  proved  a  complete  depository  of 


rfHk 


PARRY'S  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


113 


stolen  treasure,  there  being*  no  less  than  two  spoons  and 
a  pewter  plate  secreted  within  its  capacious  cavity. 

The  end  of  September  now  approached,  and  Parry 
found  himself  suddenly  in  the  depth  of  winter.  An 
alarming  symptom  appeared  in  the  rapid  formation  of 
the  soft  or  pancake  ice  on  the  surface  of  the  deep.  The 
obstacle  thereby  occasioned  was  at  first  so  slight  as  to 
be  scarcely  felt  by  a  ship  before  a  brisk  gale ;  but  it 
continually  increased,  till  at  length  the  vessel,  rolling 
from  side  to  side,  became  like  Gulliver  bound  by  the 
feeble  hands  of  Lilliputians.  At  the  same  time  the 
various  pieces  of  drift-ice,  which  were  tossing  in  the 
sea  without,  had  been  cemented  into  one  great  field 
called  "the  ice,"  that  threatened  every  moment  to  bear 
down  upon  the  brigs  and  dash  them  in  pieces.  Under 
these  circumstances,  the  navigators  could  no  longer 
even  attempt  to  reach  the  land,  but  determined  to  saw 
into  the  heart  of  an  adjoining  floe,  and  there  take  up 
their  winter  quarters.  There  was  about  half  a  mile  to 
penetrate,  which,  in  the  soft  state  of  the  pancake  ice, 
was  not  very  laborious.  It  was,  however,  far  from 
pleasant,  as  it  bended  like  leather  beneath  their  feet, 
and  caused  them  sometimes  to  sink  into  the  water, 
whence  it  was  impossible  they  could  escape  without  a 
very  cold  bath.    >    ,  t  .    ,^   .*'  i 

An  observation  of  Parry  shows  that  the  Arctic  cli- 
mate, equally  with  our  own,  is  influenced  by  a  change 
of  the  wind.  Thus,  on  the  20th  of  October,  when  the 
wind  was  N.  N.  W.,  the  fhermomtier  fell  to  — 10°  5  but, 
veering  to  the  S.  E.  on  the  24th  and  25th,  it  rose  to 
-j-23''.  "  I  may  possibly,"  he  says,  "incur  the  charge 
of  aifectation  in  stating  that  this  temperature  was  much 
too  high  to  be  agreeable  to  us ;  but  it  is,  nevertheless, 
the  fact,  that  everybody  felt  and  complained  of  the 
change.     This  is  explained  by  their  clothing,  bedding, 

10* 


V 


114 


PARRY'S  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


fires,  anxi  other  precautions  against  the  severity  of  the 
climate,  having  been  once  adapted  to  a  low  degree  of 
cold,  an  increase  of  temperature  renders  them  oppress- 
ive and  inconvenient."  Another  circumstance  is  men- 
tioned, which  may  serve  to  confirm  a  conjecture  which 
has  long  been  maintained  by  some,  that  an  open  sea, 
free  of  ice,  exists  at  or  near  the  pole.  "  On  the  2d  of 
November,"  says  Parry,  "  the  wind,  freshened  up  to  a 
gale  from  N.  by  W.,  lowered  the  thermometer  before 
midnight  to  — 5",  whereas  a  rise  of  wind  at  Melville 
Island  was  generally  accompanied  by  a  simultaneous 
rise  in  the  thermometer  at  low  temperatures.  May  not 
this,"  he  asks,  "be  occasioned  by  the  wind  blowing 
over  an  open  sea  in  the  quarter  from  which  the  wind 
blows,  and  tend  to  confirm  the  opinion  that  at  or  near 
the  pole  an  open  sea,  free  of  ice,  exists  ?  " 

Parry  was  now  frozen  up  for  another  winter  in  the 
midst  of  the  Northern  Sea,  and  he  forthwith  applied 
himself  to  make  the  necessary  arrangements,  with  that 
judicious  foresight  which  had  been  already  so  conspic- 
uous in  the  same  trying  circumstances.  As  the  result 
of  experience,  not  less  than  of  several  ingenious  con- 
trivances, the  ships  were  much  more  thoroughly  heated 
than  in  the  former  voyage  ;  the  provisioning,  too,  was 
more  ample,  and  antidotes  against  scurvy  still  more 
copiously  supplied.  The  Polar  Theatre  cpened,  on  the 
9th  of  February,  with  "  The  Rivals."  The  two  captains 
appeared  as  Sir  Anthony  and  Captain  Absolute  ;  while 
those  who  personated  the  ladies  had  very  generously 
removed  an  ample  growth  of  beard,  disregarding  the 
comfortable  warmth  which  it  afforded  in  an  Arctic  cli- 
mate. The  company  were  well  received,  and  went 
through  their  performances  with  unabated  spirit.  But 
the  discomfort  of  a  stage,  the  exhibitions  of  which  were 


PARRY'S  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


115 


not 


the 
cli- 
rent 
But 
rere 


attended  with  a  cold  thirty  degrees  under  the  freezing- 
point,  became  rather  severe. 

The  sailors  found  for  themselves  a  more  sober  and 
useful,  as  well  as  efficacious  remedy  against  ennui. 
They  established  a  school,  in  which  the  better  instructed 
undertook  to  revive  the  knowledge  of  letters  among 
those  who  had  almost  entirely  lost  the  slight  tincture 
that  they  had  once  imbibed.  These  hardy  tars  applied 
themselves  to  their  book  with  ardent  and  laudable  zeal, 
and  showed  a  pride  in  their  new  attainments  like  that 
of  little  boys  in  their  first  class.  At  Christmas,  sixteen 
well-written  copies  were  produced  by  those  who,  two 
months  before,  could  scarcely  form  a  letter.  Amid 
these  varied  and  pleasing  occupations,  the  shortest  day 
passed  over  their  heads  almost  unobserved,  especially 
as  the  sun  did  not  entirely  leave  them.  Captain  Lyon 
never  saw  a  merrier  festival  than  was  celebrated  on 
board. 

The  first  day  of  the  new  year  is  described  as  being  a 
very  severe  one  in  the  open  air,  the  thermometer  down 
to  —  22°,  and  the  wind  blowing  strong  from  the  N.  W., 
on  which  it  may  be  observed,  that  the  effect  of  a  strong 
breeze  on  the  feelings,  even  in  temperate  climates,  is 
well  known,  but  at  low  temperatures  it  becomes  pain- 
fiil,  and  almost  insupportable.  "  Thus,"  says  Parry, 
"  with  the  thermometer  at  — bb°,  and  no  wind  stirring, 
the  hands  may  remain  uncovered  for  ten  minutes  or  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  without  inconvenience  ;  while,  with 
a  fresh  breeze,  and  the  thermometer  nearly  as  high  as 
zero,  few  people  can  keep  their  hands  exposed  so  long 
without  considerable  pain." 

The  monotony  of  the  scene  was  now  greatly  relieved 
by  a  friendly  visit  from  the  natives,  and  an  invitation 
was  given  to  the  Esquimaux  to  repair  to  the  ships, 
wlien  fifty  accepted  it  with  alacrity.     Partly  walking, 


116 


PARRY'S  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


and  partly  skipping,  they  speedily  reached  the  vessels, 
where  a  striking  congeniality  of  spirit  was  soon  found 
to  exist  between  them  and  the  sailors ;  boisterous  fuii 
forming  to  each  the  chief  source  of  enjoyment.  A 
fiddle  and  drum  being  produced,  the  natives  struck  up 
a  dance,  or  rather  a  succession  of  vehement  leaps,  ac- 
companied with  loud  shouts  and  yells.  Seeing  the 
Kabloonas,  or  Whites,  as  they  called  our  countrymen, 
engaged  in  the  game  of  leap-frog,  they  attempted  to 
join  ;  but  not  duly  understanding  how  to  measure  their 
movements,  they  made  such  over-leaps  as  sometimes 
to  pitch  on  the  crown  of  their  heads ;  however,  they 
sprang  up  quite  unconcerned.  Their  attention  was  spe- 
cially attracted  to  the  effects  of  a  winch,  by  which  one 
sailor  drew  towards  him  a  party  of  ten  or  twelve  of  their 
number,  though  grinning  and  straining  every  nerve  in 
resistance ;  but,  finding  all  in  vain,  they  joined  in  the 
burst  of  good-humored  laughter  till  tears  streamed  from 
their  eyes. 

One  intdligent  old  man  followed  Captain  Lyon  to  the 
cabin,  and  viewed,  with  rational  surprise,  various  objects 
which  were  presented.  The  performance  of  a  hand-organ 
and  a  musical  snuff-box  struck  him  with  breathless  ad- 
miration ;  and,  on  seeing  drawings  of  the  Esquimaux 
in  Hudson's  Strait,  he  soon  understood  them,  and  point- 
ed out  the  difference  between  their  dress  and  appear- 
ance and  that  of  his  own  tribe.  On  viewing  the  sketch 
of  a  bear,  he  raised  a  loud  cry,  drew  up  his  sleeves,  and 
showed  the  scars  of  three  deep  wounds  recived  in  en- 
counters with  that  terrible  animal. 

As  spring  advanced,  the  attention  of  the  officers  was 
almost  wholly  engrossed  by  the  prospects  of  discovery 
during  the  approaching  summer.  The  Esquimaux,  by 
no  means  destitute  of  intelligence,  and  accustomed  to 
shift  continually  from  place  to  place,  were  found  to 


PARRY'S  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


117 


iimaux 
point- 

|,ppear- 

sketch 

js,  and 

in  en- 

rs  was 
^overy 
IX,  by 
led  to 
|nd  to 


have  acquired  a  very  extensive  knowledge  of  the  seas 
and  coasts  of  this  part  of  America.  One  female,  in  par- 
ticular, named  Iligliuk,  who  bore  even  among  her  coun- 
trymen the  character  of  "  a  wise  woman,"  was,  after 
a  little  instruction,  enabled  to  convey  to  the  strangers 
the  outlines  of  her  geographical  knowledge  in  the  form 
of  a  rude  map.  A  pencil  being  put  into  her  hand,  she 
traced  the  shore  from  Repulse  Bay  with  such  a  degree 
of  accuracy  as  inspired  great  confidence  in  what  she 
might  further  delineate.  She  then  began  to  exhibit  a 
coast  reaching  far  to  the  north,  being,  in  fact,  the  east- 
ern limits  of  Melville  Peninsula.  Next  her  pencil  took 
a  western  direction,  when  her  further  progress  was 
watched  with  the  deepest  interest ;  in  the  course  of 
which  she  represented  a  strait  between  two  opposite 
lands,  that  extended  westward  till  it  opened  oh  each 
side,  and  spread  into  an  ocean  apparently  unbounded. 
This  sketch,  which  p'-omised  to  fulfil  their  most  sanguine 
hopes,  gratified  the  officers  beyond  measure,  and  they 
loaded  Iligliuk  with  attentions. 

Parry  gives  an  interesting  account  of  the  sudden 
appearance  of  an  Esquimaux  snow  village  near  the 
ships.  "If  the  first  view,"  he  says,  "of  the  exterior 
of  this  little  village  was  such  as  to  create  astonishment, 
that  feeling  was  in  no  small  degree  heightened  on 
accepting  the  invitation  soon  given  us  to  enter  these 
extraordinary  houses,  in  the  construction  of  which  we 
observed  that  not  a  single  material  was  used  but  snow 
and  ice.  After  creeping  through  two  low  passages, 
having  each  its  arched  doorway,  we  came  to  a  small 
circular  apartment,  of  which  the  roof  was  a  perfect 
arched  dome.  From  this  three  doorways,  also  arched, 
and  of  larger  dimensions  than  the  outer  ones,  led  into 
as  many  inhabited  apartments,  one  on  each  side,  and  the 
other  Hieing  us  as  we  entered.     The  interior  of  these 


118 


FABRY'S  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


presented  a  scene  no  less  novel  than  interesting.  The 
women  were  seated  on  the  beds  at  the  sides  of  the 
huts,  each  having  her  little  fireplace,  or  lamp,  with  all 
her  domestic  utensils  about  her ;  the  children  crept 
behind  their  mothers,  and  the  dogs,  except  the  female 
ones,  which  were  indulged  with  a  part  of  the  beds, 
slunk  out  past  us  in  dismay.  The  construction  of  this 
inhabited  part  of  the  huts  was  similar  to  that  of  the 
outer  apartment,  being  a  dome  formed  by  separate 
blocks  of  snow,  laid  with  great  regularity  and  no  small 
art,  each  being  cut  into  the  shape  requisite  to  form  a 
substantial  arcl ,  from  seven  to  eight  feet  high  in  the 
centre,  and  having  no  support  whatever  but  what  this 
principle  of  building  supplied." 

These  Esquimaux  display  much  skill  in  fitting  and 
sewing  their  dresses,  and  in  the  manufacture  of  canoes, 
weapons,  and  domestic  implements.  They  eat  little  else 
than  animal  food,  and,  whenever  they  can  get  it,  will 
devour  from  ten  to  twelve  pounds  of  flesh  or  blubber 
in  a  day.  Their  only  domestic  animal  is  the  dog  ;  de- 
prived of  this  useful  creature,  their  existence  would  be 
extremely  precarious.  On  the  long  journeys  which  they 
take  in  search  of  food,  six  of  these  dogs  will  draw  a 
sledge  with  a  load  of  half  a  ton  from  seven  to  eight 
miles  an  hour  during  a  whok.  day. 

Captain  Lyon,  in  the  middle  of  March,  undertook  a 
journey  across  a  piece  of  land  lying  between  the  station 
of  the  ships  and  the  continent,  which  had  been  named 
Winter  Island.  The  party  were  scarcely  gone,  when 
they  encountered  a  heavy  gale,  bringing  with  it  clouds 
of  drift,  and  a  cold  so  intense  that  they  could  not  stop 
for  a  moment  without  having  their  faces  covered  with 
frost-bites  ;  and  their  escape  with  their  lives  during  the 
night  and  following  day  was  nearly  miraculous.  Their 
sledge  was  lost  in  the  snow.     Some  began  to  sink  into 


PARRY'S  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


119 


that  dreadful  insensibility  which  is  the  prelude  to  death 
by  cold,  and  to  reel  about  like  drunken  men.  In  fact, 
they  had  resij^ned  almost  every  hope  of  escape,  when, 
providentially,  there  appeared  a  newly-beaten  track, 
which  they  determined  to  follow,  and  in  ten  minutes  it 
led  them  to  the  ships.  Their  arrival  there  caused 
indescribable  joy,  as  they  had  been  nearly  given  up  for 
lost;  while  no  one  could  be  sent  in  search  of  them 
without  imminent  risk  of  sharing  their  fate. 

After  various  incidents,  and  unsuccessful  attempts  to 
free  the  vessels  from  the  ice,  they  at  length,  on  the  2d 
July,  resumed  their  voyage  of  discovery.  They  had  a 
favorable  run  through  the  entrance,  which  formed  a 
continuation  of  Fox's  Channel ;  but  a  strong  current 
from  the  north  was  still  bringing  down  the  ice  with 
great  force.  The  Hecla  underwent  some  severe  press- 
ures, and,  within  five  or  six  hundred  yards  of  the  Fury, 
two  large  floes  dashed  against  each  other  with  such  a 
tremendous  concussion,  that  numberless  huge  masses 
were  thrown  fifty  or  sixty  feet  into  the  air.  The  ves- 
sel, had  she  come  for  a  second  within  the  sphere  of 
these  movements,  must  have  been  crushed  to  pieces  — 
happily  she  escaped.  This  current,  however,  was  highly 
promising,  since  it  could  not  be  traced  to  the  mouth  of 
Hudson's  Strait,  and  must  therefore,  they  concluded, 
have  come  from  the  Western  Ocean,  which  they  were  so 
anxious  to  reach. 

The  ice  passed  by,  and  the  ships  proceeded  with  a 
favoring  wind  and  tide.  The  shores  began  now  to  put 
on  their  summer  aspect ;  the  snow  had  nearly  disap- 
peared, and  the  ground  was  covered  with  the  richest 
bloom  of  Arctic  vegetation.  The  navigators  came 
to  a  fine  river  named  Barrow,  which  formed  a  most 
picturesque  fall  down  rocks  richly  fringed  with  very 
brilliant  plants.     Here  the  reindeer  sporting,  the  eider- 


120 


PARRY'S  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


'it- 


duck,  the  golden  plover,  and  the  snow  bunting  spread- 
ing their  wings,  produced  a  gay  and  delightful  scene. 
On  the  14th  they  reached  the  island  of  Amitioke,  which 
had  been  described  as  situated  near  the  strait  they  were 
then  endeavoring  to  attain. 

The  discoverers  now  proceeded  northwards,  and  saw 
before  them  a  bold  and  high  range  of  coast,  apparently 
separated  from  that  along  which  they  were  sailing. 
This  leature,  agreeing  with  the  indications  of  Iligliuk, 
flattered  them  that  they  were  approaching  the  strait 
exhibited  by  her  as  forming  the  entrance  into  the  Polar 
Basin.  They  pushed  on,  full  of  hope  and  animation,  and 
were  further  cheered  hy  reaching  the  small  island  of 
Igloolik,  which  she  had  described  as  situated  at  the  very 
commencement  of  the  passage.  Accordingly,  they  soon 
saw  the  strait  stretching  westward  before  them  in  long 
perspective  ;  but,  alas  1  they  discovered  at  the  same 
moment  an  unbroken  sheet  of  ice  from  shore  to  shore, 
crossing  and  blocking  up  the  passage  ;  and  this  not  a 
loose  accidental  floe,  but  the  field  of  the  preceding 
winter,  on  which  the  midsummer  sun  had  not  produced 
the  slightest  change.  Unable  to  advance,  they  amused 
themselves  with  land  excursions  in  different  directions  ; 
and  Parry  at  length  determined,  on  the  14th  August, 
with  a  party  of  six,  to  undertake  an  expedition  along  the 
frozen  surface  of  the  strait.  '  >i 

The  journey  was  very  laborious,  the  ice  being  some- 
times thrown  up  in  rugged  hummocks,  and  occasionally 
leaving  large  spaces  of  open  water,  which  it  was  neces- 
sary to  cross  on  a  plank,  or  on  pieces  of  ice,  instead  of 
boats.  In  four  days  they  came  in  view  of  a  peninsula 
terminated  by  a  bold  cape,  the  approach  to  which  was 
guarded  by  successive  ranges  of  strata,  resembling  the 
tiers  or  galleries  of  a  commanding  fortification.  The 
party,  however,  scrambled  to  the  summit,  whence  they 


PiVRRY'S  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


121 


3ome- 

fnally 

leces- 

idof 

Insula 

was 

the 

The 

they 


enjoyed  a  most  gratifying  spectacle.  They  were  at  the 
narrowest  part  of  the  strait,  here  about  two  miles  acrosi', 
with  a  tide  or  current  running  through  it  at  the  rate  of 
two  miles  an  hour.  Westward,  the  shores  on  each  side 
receded,  till,  for  three  points  of  the  compass,  and  amid 
a  clear  horizon,  no  land  was  visible.*  Parry  doubted 
not  that  from  this  position  he  beheld  the  Polar  Sea, 
into  which,  notwithstanding  the  formidable  barriers  of 
ice  which  intervened,  he  cherished  the  most  sanguine 
hopes  of  forcing  his  way.  He  named  this  the  Strait  of 
the  Fury  and  Ilecla. 

He  now  lost  no  time  in  returning  to  the  ships,  where 
his  arrival  was  very  seasonable  ;  for  the  opposing  bar- 
rier, which  had  been  gradually  softening  and  breaking 
into  various  rents  and  fissures,  at  once  almost  entirely 
disappeared,  and  the  vessels  next  morning  were  in 
open  water.  On  the  21st  they  got  under  weigh,  and, 
though  retarded  by  fogs  and  other  obstructions,  had 
arrived  on  the  26th  at  that  central  and  narrowest  chan- 
nel which  the  commander  had  formerly  reached.  A 
brisk  breeze  now  sprang  up,  the  sky  cleared,  they 
dashed  across  a  current  of  three  or  four  knots  an  hour, 
and  sanguinely  hoped  for  an  entire  success,  which 
would  compensate  so  many  delays  and  disappointments. 

Suddenly,  it  was  announced  from  the  crow's  nest 
that  ice,  in  a  continuous  field,  unmoved  from  its  winter 
station,  occupied  the  whole  breadth  of  the  channel.  In 
an  hour  they  reached  this  barrier,  which  they  found 
soft,  porous,  and  what  is  termed  rotten.  Spreading  all 
their  canvas,  they  bore  down  upon  it,  and  actually  forced 
their  way  through  a  space  of  three  or  four  hundred 
yards  ;  but  there  they  stuck,  and  found  their  progress 
arrested  by  an  impenetrable  mass.  From  this  point, 
during  the  whole  season,  the  ships  were  unable  to 
11 


122 


PARilY'S  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


jnlvance  a  single  yard  ;  nor  had  the  crews  any  means 
of  exerting  tlieir  activity  except  in  land  journeys. 

Captain  Lyon  undertook  an  expedition  southward,  to 
ascertain  if  any  inlet  or  passage  from  sea  to  sea  in  this 
direction  had  escaped  notice.  The  country,  however, 
was  so  filled  with  rugged  and  rocky  hills,  some  a  thou- 
sand feet  high,  and  with  chains  of  lakes  in  which  much 
ice  was  floating,  tliat  he  could  not  proceed  above  seven 
miles.  Though  it  was  the  beginning  of  September,  the 
season  was  only  that  of  early  spring  ;  and  the  buds  of 
the  poppy  and  saxifrage  were  just  unfolding,  to  be  pre- 
maturely nipped  by  the  fast-approaching  winter. 

More  satisfactory  information  was  derived  from 
another  excursion  made  by  Messrs.  Reid  and  Bushman, 
who  penetrated  sixty  miles  westward  along  the  southern 
coast  of  Cockburn  Island,  till  they  reachou  a  pinnacle, 
whence  they  saw,  beyond  all  doubt,  the  Polar  Ocean 
spreading  its  vast  expanse  before  them  ;  but  tremendous 
barriers  of  ice  filled  the  strait,  and  precluded  all  ap- 
proach towards  that  great  and  desired  object. 

It  was  now  tho  middle  of  September,  and  the  usual 
symptoms  of  deer  trooping  in  herds  southward,  floating 
pieces  of  ice  consolidated  into  masbes,  and  the  thin 
pancake  crust  forming  on  the  surface  of  the  waters, 
reminded  the  mariners  not  only  that  they  could  hope 
for  no  further  removal  of  the  obstacles  which  arrested 
their  progress,  but  that  they  must  lose  no  time  in  pro- 
viding winter  quarters.  The  middle  of  the  strait,  at  the 
spot  where  they  had  been  first  stopped,  occurred  as  the 
station  whence  they  would  be  most  likely  to  push 
future  discovery ;  but  prudence  suggested  a  doubt, 
whether  the  ships,  enclosed  in  this  icy  prison,  with 
such  strong  barriers  on  each  side,  might  ever  be  able  to 
effect  their  extrication.  Tfic  cliance  of  being  shut  up 
here  for  eleven  months,  amid  the  privations  of  an  Arctic 


PARRY'S  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


123 


winter,  appeared,  at  all  events,  a  serious  consideration. 
By  returning  to  Ig-loolik,  they  would  bo  ready  to  catch 
the  earliest  opening-,  which  was  expected  to  take  place 
on  the  eastern  side,  from  whence  a  few  days  would 
bring  them  back  to  their  present  station. 

On  the  30th  of  October,  by  the  usual  operation  of 
sawing,  the  ships  were  established  in  a  harbor  at  Igloo- 
lik.  The  ensuing  season  was  passed  with  the  most 
careful  attention  to  +he  health  and  comfort  of  the  crews  ; 
but,  though  their  spirits  did  not  sink,  there  appears  to 
have  been,  on  the  whole,  less  of  gayety  and  lightness 
of  heart  than  in  the  two  former  years.  We  hear  nothing 
of  the  drama,  or  even  of  the  school.  In  this  position, 
north  of  Winter  Island,  they  were  deprived  for  about 
seven  weeks  of  the  sun's  cheering  beams.  On  the  2d  of 
December  refraction  still  showed,  from  the  deck  of  the 
Fury,  about  the  sixteenth  part  of  his  disk.  At  the  New 
Year,  Arcturus  and  Capella,  stars  of  the  first  magnitude, 
were  visible  half  an  hour  before  and  after  mid-day.  On 
the  5th  of  January,  1823,  the  horizon  was  so  brightly 
suffused  with  red,  that  they  hoped  ere  long  to  see  the 
sun's  orb  burst  forth  ;  but  a  fortnight  of  thick  fog  occa- 
sioned a  disappointment.  On  the  19th,  the  sky  having 
cleared,  they  saw  him  rise,  attended  by  two  parhelia, 


'.>!. 


PARHELIA. 


and  both  crews  turned  out  to  enjoy  the   novelty  and 
splendor  of  this  cheering  spectacle.     One  of  tiese  par- 


124 


PAIlllY'S  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


Vi 


liclia  waH  very  brig-ht  and  prismatic,  being  thrown  upon 
a  thick  cloud  ;  the  other  scarcely  perceptible,  having  a 
blue  sky  as  its  back-ground.  To  each  of  these  mock 
suns  bright  yellow  bands  of  light  were  at^  ichcd,  as 
shown  in  the  diagram. 

The  sailors  found  at  Igloolik  a  colony  of  Esquimaux, 
who  received  them  at  first  with  surprise  and  some  de- 
gree of  alarm  ;  but,  on  learning  they  were  from  Winter 
Island,  and  intimate  with  its  tenants  of  last  season,  they 
welcomed  them  as  familiar  acquaintances.  The  crews 
spent  the  winter  with  them  on  a  friendly  footing,  and 
rendered  important  services  to  many  individuals  during 
a  period  of  severe  sickness.  •, 

The  spring  proved  unfavorable.  Captain  L/on  at- 
tempted to  penetrate  across  Melville  Peninsula,  but 
found  the  road  so  barred  by  steep  chains  of  mountains, 
that  he  was  obliged  to  return  in  nineteen  days,  without 
any  discovery,  except  of  two  rapid  rivers  falling  into 
the  sea  near  Igloolik.  Lieut.  Iloppner  accompanied  a 
party  of  Esquimaux  to  Cockburn  Island,  but  could  not 
make  his  way  to  any  distance  inland.  It  was  the  Tth 
of  August  before  they  were  able,  by  severe  sawing,  to 
reach  the  open  sea  ;  by  which  time  Parry  had  renounced 
the  hope  of  effecting  anything  important  during  the 
short  remnant  of  this  season.  He  formed,  however,  a 
very  bold  plan,  which  was  to  bring  all  the  stores  of  the 
other  vessel  on  board  the  Fury,  and  with  it  alone  to 
brave  a  third  winter  in  the  polar  regions,  hoping  that 
the  succeeding  summer  might  be  more  propitious.  But, 
as  he  was  preparing  to  carry  this  too  daring  project  into 
effect,  a  report  was  made  that  symptoms  of  scurvy  had 
broken  out  on  several  of  the  crew,  whose  physical 
strength  appeared  to  be  generally  impaired  by  the  two 
hard  winters  through  which  they  had  passed.  This  left 
no  choice  ;  and,  in  compliance  with  the  general  opinion 


PARRY'S  THIRD  VOYAGE. 


125 


to 


of  his  oflBcers,  ho  forthwith  began  his  voyage  home- 
wards. 

The  ships  were  drifted  about  in  a  stormy  soa,  covered 
with  ice,  for  twenty-four  d;iys  ;  but,  ])eing  at  last  favorcl 
with  a  westerly  breeze,  they  crossed  the  Atlantic,  and 
on  the  10th  of  October,  1823,  arrived  in  Brassa  Sound, 
Shetland. 

Two  attempts  had  thus  been  made,  each  to  a  certain 
point  successful,  but  both  arrested  much  short  of  the 
completion  of  the  grand  enterprise.  The  govcniment 
at  home,  however,  were  not  willing  to  stop  short  in 
their  spirited  career.  The  western  extremity  of  Mel- 
ville Island,  and  the  Strait  of  the  Fury  and  Ilecla,  ap- 
peared to  be  both  so  blocked  up  as  to  afford  little  liope  ; 
but  Prince  Regerio's  Inlet  seemed  more  likely  to  lead  to 
a  prosperous  issue.  A  passage  through  this  channel 
would  bring  the  ships  to  tln^  great  sea  bounding  the 
northern  coast  of  America,  that  had  been  seen  from  the 
strait  mentioned  above,  and  by  which  there  was  the 
fairest  prospect  of  reaching,  by  the  most  diroct  route, 
the  waters  of  the  great  Pa^'ific,  To  follow  up  these 
views.  Parry  was  again  fitted  out  in  Lne  Ilecla  ;  while, 
in  the  accidental  absence  of  Captain  Lyon,  the  Fury 
was  intrusted  to  Lieutenant,  now  Captain,  Iloppner, 
who  had  taken  an  active  part  in  the  operations  of  the 
preceding  voyage. 

The  expedition  set  sail  from  Northfleet  on  the  19th 
of  May,  1824,  and  was  in  Davis's  Strait  by  the  middle 
of  June.  As  the  season,  however,  chanced  to  be  pecu- 
liarly rigorous,  it  was  not  till  the  10th  of  September 
that,  after  repeated  repulses  and  severe  straining,  they 
caught  a  view  of  the  bold  and  magnificent  shores  of 
Lancaster  Sound,  in  which  a  few  solitary  icebergs  were 
floating.  After  this  they  thought  themselves  fortunate 
when,  by  pushing  their  way  through  many  miles  of 
11* 


126 


PARRY'S  THIRD  VOYAGE. 


ill 


;n! 


tiGwIy-formed  ice,  they  reached  Port  Bowen,  in  time  to 
make  it  their  winter  quarters. 

Here  they  remained  until  the  20th  of  July,  1825, 
when  the  voyage  was  resumed,  but  under  very  dis- 
couraging circumstances.  Great  accumulations  of  ice 
renderod  it  almost  impossible  to  advance  ;  the  Fury 
was  driven  on  shore,  and  abandoned,  though  most  of 
her  stores  were  saved  and  piled  on  the  beach  ;  and  the 
Hecla  returned  to  England  with  a  double  complement 
of  men  and  officers.  This  was  the  least  successful  of 
Parry's  voya; ,  ;s,  but  there  is  a  fact  connected  with  it 
which  deserves  to  be  recorded  :  it  proved  that  the 
anxiety  and  difficulty  consequent  on  the  loss  of  power 
in  the  compasses  need  no  longer  exist.  The  placing  of  a 
small  circular  plate  of  iron  in  the  line  of  nu  direction  of 
the  ship,  and  near  to  the  needle,  effects  a  compensation 
which  keeps  the  latter  in^working  condition.  This  con- 
trp-ance  is  due  to  Mr.  Peter  Barlow  of  Woolwich,  and 
Parrj'^  says,  "  Never  had  an  invention  a  more  complete 
and  satisfactory  triumph  ;  for  to  the  last  moment  of  our 
operations  at  nea  did  the  compass  indicate  the  true 
magnetic  direction.*' 


■  r-.i   J 


r  J 


'iy.'V 


CHAPTER   VII. 


lyon's  voyage.  —  beechey's  expedition.  —  franklin's  second  land 
expedition. — fort  franklin. — winter  at  great  bear  lake. — 
embarkation.  — separation  op  the  party. — progress  of  frank- 

LIN's   DIVISION. — ATTACK    BY   ESQUIMAUX. — RETURN    TO   FORT  FRANK- 
LIN.—  Richardson's  division.  —  second  winter  at  the  fort. 


Concurrently  with  Parry's  third  voyage,  three  other 
expeditions  were  undertaken,  with  the  two-fold  object 
of  making  the  north-west  passage  and  of  completing  the 
survey  of  the  North  American  coast.  The  first,  by 
Captain  Lyon,  in  the  Griper,  was  to  proceed  by  Hud- 
son's Strait  and  Sir  Thomas  Rowe's  AVelcome  to  Re- 
pulse Bay  ;  then  to  cross  over  Melville  Isthmus,  and 
survey  the  coast  of  America  as  far  as  where  Franklin 
left  off,  at  Point  Turnagain.  The  vessel  sailed  in  June, 
1824,  but,  being  totally  unfit  for  the  service,  except  in 
the  quality  of  strength,  she  was  nearly  wrecked  on  two 
occasions  in  the  Welcome,  and  all  on  board  placed  in 
imminent  peril  of  their  lives  ;  and  at  last.  Repulse  Bay 
being  eighty  miles  distant,  the  enterprise  was  aban- 
doned. 

The  second  expedition,  in  the  Blossom,  under  the 
command  of  Captain  Beechey,  was  despatched  in  1825, 
to  sail  round  Cape  Horn,  and  enter  the  Polar  Sea  ly 
Behring's  Strait,  so  as  to  arrive  at  Chamisso  Island,  in 
Kotzebue  Sound,  by  the  10th  of  July,  182G,  there  to 
wait  for  the  third  expedition,  under  Franklin,  of  which 
more  presently. 


128 


BEECHEY'S  EXPEDITION. 


On  the  2d  of  June,  having  left  the  Sandwich  Islands, 
he  shaped  his  course  for  Karntschatka,  and  on  the  27th 
was  becalmed  within  six  miles  of  Pctropalauski.  The 
best  guides  to  this  harbor  are  a  range  of  high  moun- 
tains, on  one  of  which,  upwards  of  eleven  thousand  feet 
in  height,  a  volcano  is  in  constant  action.  It  was  a 
serene  and  beautiful  evening  when  they  approached  this 
remote  quarter  of  the  world,  and  all  were  struck  with 
the  magnificence  of  the  mountains  capped  with  peren- 
nial snow,  and  rising  in  solemn  grandeur  one  above  the 
other.  At  intervals  the  volcano  emitted  dark  columns 
of  smoke  ;  and,  from  a  sprinkling  of  black  spots  upon 
the  snow  to  the  leeward,  it  was  conjectured  there  had 
been  a  recent  eruption. 

From  Pctropalauski,  Beechey  sailed,  on  the  1st  of 
July,  for  Kotzebue's  Sound.  "  We  approached,"  says 
he,  "the  strait  which  separates  the  two  great  continents 
of  Asia  and  America,  on  one  of  those  beautiful  still 
nights  well  known  to  all  who  have  visited  the  Arctic 
regions,  when  the  sky  is  without  a  cloud,  and  when  the 
midnighi:  sun,  scarcely  his  own  diameter  below  the 
horizon,  tinges  with  a  bright  hue  all  the  northern  circle. 
Our  3hip,  propelled  by  an  increasing  breeze,  glided  rap- 
idly along  a  smooth  sea,  startling  from  her  path  flocks 
of  aquatic  birds,  whose  flight,  in  the  deep  silence  of  the 
scene,  could  be  traced  by  the  ear  to  a  great  distance." 
Having  closed  in  with  the  American  shore  some  miles 
northward  of  Capo  Prince  of  Wales,  they  were  visited 
by  a  little  Esquimaux  squadron  belonging  to  a  village 
situated  on  a  low  sandy  island. 

Tlie  natives  readily  sold  everything  they  possessed, 
and  were  cheerful  and  good-humored,  though  exceed- 
ingly noisy  and  energetic.  Their  bows  were  more  slen- 
der than  those  of  the  islanders  to  the  southward,  but 
made  on  the  same  principle,  with  drift-pine,  assisted 


BEECHEY'S  EXPEDITION. 


129 


[ce. 

Inilos 
dted 
flage 

3sed,  . 
teed- 
3len-  < 
but 
Isted  > 


with  thongs  of  hide,  or  pieces  of  whalebone  placed  at 
the  back,  and  neatly  bound  with  small  cord.  The 
points  of  their  arrows  were  of  bone,  flint,  or  iron,  and 
their  spears  headed  with  the  same  materials.  Their 
dress  was  similar  to  that  of  the  other  tribes  on  the 
coast.  It  consisted  of  a  shirt,  which  reached  half-way 
down  the  thigh,  with  long  sleeves,  and  a  hood  of  rein- 
deer-.skin,  and  edged  with  gray  or  white  fox  fur.  Be- 
sides this  they  had  a  jacket  of  eider-drake  skins  sewed 
together,  which,  when  engaged  in  war,  they  wore  below 
their  other  dress,  reckoning  it  a  tolerably  efficient  pro- 
tection against  an  arrow  or  a  spear-thrust.  In  wet 
weather  they  threw  over  the  fur  dress  a  shirt  made  of 
the  entrails  of  the  whale,  which,  being  well  saturated 
with  oil  and  grease,  was  water-tight :  and  they  also  used 
breeches  of  deer's  hide,  and  seal-skin  boots,  to  the 
upper  end  of  which  were  fixed  strings  of  sea-horse 
hide.  It  was  their  fashion  to  tie  one  of  these  striuga 
round  the  waist,  and  attach  to  it  a  long  tuft  of  hair,  the 
wing  of  a  bird,  or,  sometimes,  a  fox's  tail,  which,  dan- 
gling behind  as  they  walked,  gave  them  a  ridiculous 
appearance,  and  may  probably  have  occasioned  the 
report  of  the  Tschuktschi  recorded  in  Muller,  that  the 
people  of  this  country  have  tails  like  dogs. 

On  the  22d  of  July  the  ship  anchored  in  Kotzebue's 
Sound,  and,  after  exploring  a  deep  inlet  on  its  northern 
shore,  which  they  named  Ilotham  Inlet,  proceeded  to 
Chamisso  Island,  where  the  Blossom  was  to  await 
Franklin.  A  discretionary  power  had,  however,  been 
permitted  to  Beechey,  of  employing  the  period  of  his 
stay  in  surveying  the  coast,  provided  this  could  be  done 
without  the  risk  of  missing  Franklin.  Having,  accord 
ingiy,  directed  the  barge  to  keep  in-shore  on  the  look- 
out for  the  land  party,  he  sailed  to  the  northward,  and, 
doubling  Cape  Krusenstern,  completed  an  examination 


130 


BEECHEY'S  EXPEDITION. 


^ii 


of  the  coast  by  Cape  Thomson,  Point  Hope,  Cape  Lis- 
burn,  Cape  Beaufort,  and  Icy  Cape.  As  there  were 
here  strong  indications  of  the  ice  closing  in,  and  his 
instructions  were  positive  to  keep  in  open  water,  if  pos- 
sible, he  determined  to  return  to  Kotzebue's  Sound, 
whilst  he  despatched  the  barge,  under  his  lieutenants, 
to  trace  the  coast  to  the  north-eastward,  q'j  ^ar  as  they 
could  navigate.  -  ■    '! 

On  this  service  the  barge  set  out,  on  the  1*7 th  of 
August.  She  proceeded  along  the  coast,  and  surveyed 
one  hundred  and  twenty-six  miles  of  new  shore,  until 
stopped  by  a  long,  low,  projecting  tongue  of  land,  to 
which  the  name  of  Point  Barrow  was  given,  but  without 
iieeting  or  hearing  any  tidings  of  the  expected  overland 
party ;  though  it  was  afterwards  ascertained  that 
Point  Barrow  was  distant  only  one  hundred  and  forty- 
six  miles  from  the  extreme  point  reached  by  Franklin. 

In  the  mean  time  Beechey  returned  with  the  Blossom 
to  Kotzebue's  Sound.  There  she  remained  at  the  an- 
chorage till  October,  when  it  became  necessary  to 
depart,  to  prevent  her  being  frozen  in  for  the  winter ; 
anJ,  after  a  cruise  in  the  Pacific,  she  shaped  her  course 
once  more  for  the  rendezvous  at  Chamisso  Island.  Dur- 
ing the  voyage  to  that  point,  where  they  arrived  August 
21th,  1827,  Beechey  and  his  men  had  repeated  inter- 
views with  the  Esquimaux,  whose  habits  and  disposi- 
tion were  in  no  respect  different  from  those  of  the 
natives  already  described.  They  found  them  uniformly 
friendly,  sociable,  devotedly  fond  of  tobacco,  eager  to 
engage  in  traffic,  and,  upon  the  whole,  honest,  though 
disposed  to  drive  a  hard  bargain.  On  some  occasions 
they  attempted  to  impose  upon  their  customers,  by 
skins  artfully  put  together,  so  as  to  represent  an  entire 
fish  ;  but  it  was  difficult  to  determine  whether  they 
intended  a  serious  fraud  or  only  a  piece  of  humor,  for 


FRANKLIN'S  SECOND  LAND   EXPEDITION. 


131 


they  laughed  heartily  when  detected,  and  appeared  to 
consider  it  a  good  joke.  Their  persons,  houses,  and 
cookery,  were  all  exceedingly  dirty,  and  their  mode  of 
salutavion  was  by  a  mutual  contact  of  noses  ;  sometimes 
licking  their  hands,  and  stroking  first  their  own  faces, 
and  afterwards  those  of  the  strangers. 

The  weather  proved  unfavorable  for  further  operations ; 
there  was  very  little  open  sea  ;  and,  in  endeavoring  to 
push  alono-  the  fc:hore,  the  barge  was  wrecked,  and  sev- 
eral of  her  crew  drowned ;  and  on  the  6th  of  October 
Beechc/  was  obliged  to  abandon  further  exploration, 
grieved  and  disappointed  that  he  had  not  the  satisfac- 
tion of  bearing  with  him  the  adventurous  party  whom 
he  had  been  sent  especially  to  meet.  He  arrived  in 
England  October  12,  1828,  having  been  absent  on  his 
voyage  three  years  and  a  half. 

The  party  under  Franklin  comprised  the  third  of  the 
expeditions  to  which  we  have  referred.  In  1824,  Frank- 
lin, undeterred  by  the  recollection  of  the  fearful  hard- 
ships endured  in  his  former  overland  journey,  proposed 
a  second,  which,  descending  the  Mackenzie  River  to 
the  sea,  should  there  divide  its  force  ;  and,  while  one 
party  explored  the  coast  easterly  to  the  Coppermine, 
the  other  should  make  its  way  westerly  to  ley  Cape, 
or,  if  possible,  Behring's  Strait.  The  project  was  duly 
sanctioned,  and  every  preparation  made  to  insure  suc- 
cess, by  building  boats,  providing  scientific  instruments, 
and  supplying  abundant  provisions.  Besides  three 
strong  and  light  boats,  better  suited  to  navigation 
among  ice  than  bark  canoes,  a  smaller  one,  cove  red 
with  Mackintosh's  prepared  canvas,  weighing  o  ly 
eighty-five  pounds,  and  named  "  The  Walnut  Shell  " 
was  constructed  for  the  purpose  of  crossing  rivers. 

In  the  preparations  nothing  appears  to  have  been 
omitted.     Scientific  instruments  of  all  kinds,  fowling- 


132 


FRAN Iv LIN'S  SECOND  LAND  EXPEDITION. 


pieces  and  ammunition,  marquees  and  t^nts,  bedding, 
clothing,  and  water-proof  dresses,  flour,  arrow-root, 
maccaroni,  portable  soup,  chocolate,  essence  of  coffee, 
sugar,  and  tea,  not  omitting  an  adequate  supply  of  that 
essential  article  for  all  North  American  travellers, 
pemmican,  —  were  supplied. 

The  officers  under  Franklin's  orders  were  his  old  and 
tried  companions  and  fellow-sufferers  in  the  former 
journey,  Dr.  Richardson  and  I<ieut.  Back,  with  Mr. 
Kendall,  a  mate  in  the  navy,  and  Mr.  T.  Drummond,  a 
naturalist.  Four  boats,  specially  prepared  for  the  pur- 
poses of  the  expedition,  were  sent  out  by  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company's  ship.  In  July,  1825,  the  party  arrived 
at  Fort  Chipewyan.  They  reached  Great  Bear  Lake  in 
safety,  and  erected  a  winter  dv^eUing  on  its  western 
shore,  to  which  the  name  of  Fort  Franklin  was  given. 
To  Back  and  Mr.  Dease,  an  officer  in  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company's  service,  were  intrusted  the  arrangements  for 
their  winter  quarters. 

From  here  a  small  party  set  out  with  Franklin  down 
the  Mackenzie  to  examine  the  state  of  the  Polar 
Sea.  The  sixth  day  after  their  departure  they  passed 
the  last  of  the  fir-trees,  in  latitude  68°  40',  these  being 
succeeded  by  stunted  willows,  which  became  more 
dwarfish  as  they  approached  the  sea.  After  the  dis- 
sipation of  a  thick  fog,  the  expanse  of  water  to  the 
northward  was  so  great,  that  Franklin  was  inclined  to 
think  they  had  reached  the  sea ;  and  in  this  he  was 
almost  confirmed  on  reaching  the  shore  of  Ellice  Island, 
where  they  *'  were  rejoiced  at  the  sea-like  appearance 
to  the  northward."  "  This  point  was  observed  to  be  in 
latitude  69°  14',  longitude  135°  57',  and  forms  the  north- 
eastern entrance  of  the  main  channel  of  the  Mackenzie 
River,  which  from  Slave  Lake  to  this  point  is  one  thou- 
sand and  forty-five  miles,  according  to  our  survey."  On 


«■• 


FRANKLIN'S  SECOND  LAND  EXPEDITION. 


133 


reaching"  Garry  Islaiid,  they  ascended  the  summit,  and 
from  it  "the  sea  appeared  in  all  its  majesty,  entirely 
free  from  ice,  and  without  any  visible  obstruction  to  its 
navigation,  and  never  was  a  prospect  more  gratifying 
than  that  which  lay  open  to  us." 

Franklin  had  left  England  under  affecting  circum- 
stances. His  first  wife,  who  was  then  lying  at  the 
point  of  death,  with  heroic  fortitude  urged  his  depart- 
ure at  the  very  day  appointed,  entreating  him,  as  he 
valued  her  peace  of  mind  and  his  own  glory,  not  to 
delay  a  moment  on  her  account ;  that  she  was  fully 
aware  that  her  days  were  numbered,  and  that  his  delay, 
even  if  she  wished  it,  could  only  be  to  close  her  eyes. 
She  died  the  day  after  he  left  her.  His  feelings  may  be 
inferred,  but  not  described,  when  he  had  to  elevate  on 
Garry  Island  a  silk  flag  which  she  had  made  and  given 
him  as  a  parting  gift,  with  the  instruction  that  he  was 
to  hoist  it  only  on  reaching  the  Polar  Sea. 

On  the  8th  of  September,  Franklin  and  his  party  got 
back  to  their  companions  on  Great  Bear  Lake,  and  pre- 
pared to  pass  the  long  winter  of  seven  or  eight  months. 
On  5th  October  the  last  swan  had  passed  to  the  south- 
ward, and  on  the  11th  the  last  brown  duck  was  noticed. 
On  6tli  May  the  first  swan  was  seen,  and  on  the  8th  the 
brown  ducks  reappeared  on  the  lake.  The  mosses  began 
to  sprout,  and  various  singing-birds  and  orioles,  along 
with  some  swifts  and  white  geese,  arrived  soon  after. 

It  is  remarked  by  Dr.  Richardson  that  the  singing 
birds,  which  were  silent  on  the  banks  of  the  Bear  Lake 
during  the  day,  serenaded  their  mates  at. midnight ;  at 
which  time,  however,  it  was  quite  light.  On  20th 
May  the  little  stream  which  flowed  past  the  fort  burst 
its  icy  chains,  and  the  laughing  geese  arrived,  to  give 
renewed  cheerfulness  to  the  lake.  Soon  after  this  the 
winter-green  began  to  push  forth  its  flowers  ;  and  under 

12 


'I 


134 


FRANKLIN'S   SECOND   LAND   EXPEDITION. 


the  increasing  warmth  of  the  sun's  rays  the  whole  face  of 
nature  underwent  a  delightful  change.  The  snow  grad- 
ually melted,  the  ice  broke  up  from  the  shores  of  the 
lake,  the  northern  sky  became  red  and  luminous  at  mid- 
night, the  dwarf-birch  and  willows  expanded  their  leaves, 
and  by  the  3d  June  the  anemones,  the  tussilago,  the 
Lapland  rose,  and  other  early  plants,  were  in  full  flower. 

On  the  28th  June  they  embarked  upon  the  Mackenzie  ; 
on  the  4th  July  they  reached  that  part  where  the  river 
divides  into  various  channels,  and  the  two  parties  were 
to  pursue  difierent  directions.  The  western  branch  was 
the  route  to  be  pursued  by  the  boats  of  Franklin's  party, 
and  the  eastern  branch  by  those  of  Richardson :  the 
former  to  proceed  along  the  northern  coast  westerly 
as  far  as  Icy  Cape,  where  it  was  expected  to  fall  in 
with  the  Blossom ;  the  latter  to  examine  the  coast-line 
between  the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie  and  that  of  the 
Coppermine. 

The  parties  now  separated.  On  reaching  the  mouth 
of  the  Mackenzie,  the  western  expedition  came  in  con- 
tact with  the  Esquimaux.  Franklin  proceeded  to  open 
a  communication  with  them.  At  first  everything  pro- 
ceeded in  a  friendly  manner.  Augustus,  after  deliver- 
ing a  present,  informed  them  that  if  the  English  suc- 
ceeded in  finding  a  navigable  channel  for  large  ships,  an 
advantageous  trade  would  be  opened.  This  intimation 
was  received  with  a  deafening  shout ;  the  boats  were 
in  a  moment  surrounded  by  nearly  three  hundred  per- 
sons, oifering  for  sale  their  bows,  arrows,  and  spears, 
with  a  violence  and  perseverance  which  became  at  last 
troublesome,  and  Franklin  directed  the  boats  to  be  put 
to  seaward.  ':i  f- 

At  this  moment  a  kayak  was  upset  by  one  of  the  oars 
of  the  Lion,  and  its  unhappy  possessor  was  stuck  by 
the  accident  with  hie  head  in  the  mud,  and  his  heels  in 


1 


FRANKLIN'S  SECOND   LAND   EXPEDITIUN. 


185 


lin 


the  air.  lie  was  instantly  extricated,  wrapt  in  a  warm 
great-coat,  and  placed  in  the  boat ;  where,  though  at 
first  frightened  and  angry,  he  soon  became  reconciled  to 
his  situation,  and,  looking  about,  discovered  many  bales 
and  other  articles  which  had  hitherto  been  carefully  con- 
cealed. Ilis  first  impulse  was  to  ask  for  everything  he 
saw  ;  his  next,  to  be  indignant  that  his  requests  were  not 
granted  ;  and,  on  joining  his  com})anious,  he  proposed  a 
plan  for  a  general  attack  and  pillage  of  both  the  boats. 
This  scheme  was  immediately  carried  into  execution  ; 
and,  though  the  plunderers  at  first  afiectcd  to  be  partly 
in  sport,  matters  soon  assumed  a  serious  complexion. 

Two  of  the  most  powerful  men,  leaping  on  board, 
seized  Captain  Franklin,  forced  him  to  sit  between  them  ; 
and  when  he  shook  them  off,  a  third  took  his  station  in 
front  4o  catch  his  arm  whenever  he  attempted  to  raise 
his  gun,  or  lay  his  hand  on  the  broad  dagger  which 
hung  by  his  side.  During  this  assault  the  two  boats 
were  violently  dragged  to  the  shore,  and  a  numerous 
party,  stripping  to  the  waist  and  brandishing  their  long 
sharp  knives,  ran  to  the  Reliance,  and  commenced  a  reg- 
ular pillage,  handing  the  articles  to  the  women,  who, 
ranged  in  a  row  behind,  quickly  conveyed  them  out  of 
sight.  No  sooner  was  the  bow  cleared  of  one  set  of 
marauders,  than  another  party  commenced  their  opera- 
tions at  the  stern.  The  crew  in  the  Lion  were  nearly 
overpowered,  and  their  commander  disarmed,  when  all 
at  once  the  natives  took  to  their  heels,  and  concealed 
themselves  behind  the  drift  timber  and  canoes  on  the 
beach.  This  sudden  panic  was  occasioned  by  Captain 
Back,  whose  boat  at  this  time  had  been  got  afloat,  com- 
manding his  crew  to  level  their  muskets.  The  Lion 
happily  floated  soon  after  ;  and  as  both  boats  pulled  off, 
Franklin  desired  Augustus  to  inform  the  Esquimaux  that 


i: 


136 


FRANKLIN'S  SECOND  LAND   ^:;PEDIT10N. 


I 


I 


he  would  Hhoot  tlio  first  man  who  veiu  red  to  approach 
within  mu8kot-ranf>'e. 

An  amicable  leave  was,  however,  afterwards  taken 
of  these  people,  and  on  the  13th  of  July  Franklin  put 
to  sea.  On  the  27th  he  came  to  the  mouth  of  a  wide 
river,  to  which,  as  it  proceeded  from  the  British  ran<^n 
of  mountains,  and  was  near  the  line  of  demarkation 
between  Groat  Britain  and  Russia,  Franklin  j^ave  tho 
name  of  Clarence.  They  were  now  in  lat.  70°  5',  long. 
143°  55'.  The  further  they  advanced  westerly  the  more 
dense  became  the  fogs  ;  the  temperature  descended  to 
35°,  and  the  gales  of  wind  became  more  constant ;  at 
night  the  water  froze  ;  and,  the  middle  of  August  having 
arrived,  the  winter  might  here  be  said  to  have  set  in  ; 
the  more  early,  probably,  from  the  vicinity  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  the  extensive  swampy  plains  between 
them  and  the  sea.  The  men  had  suffered  much,  and  on 
the  18th  Franklin  set  out  on  his  return  to  the  Macken- 
zie, from  the  extreme  point  gained,  named  by  him  the 
Return  Reef,  in  lat.  70°  24'  N.,  long.  149°  37'  W. 

About  this  time,  as  it  afterward  appeared,  the  Blos- 
som's boat,  sent  by  Beechey  from  Behring's  Strait, 
arrived  on  the  coast,  on  which  Franklin  observes : 
"  Could  I  have  known,  or  by  possibility  imagined,  that 
a  party  from  the  Blossom  had  been  at  the  distance 
of  only  one  hundred  and  sixty  miles  from  me,  no  diffi- 
culties, dangers,  or  discouraging  circumstances,  should  ' 
have  prevailed  on  me  to  return  ;  but,  taking  into  account 
the  uncertainty  of  all  voyages  in  a  sea  obstructed  by 
ice,  I  had  no  right  to  expect  that  the  Blossom  had 
advanced  beyond  Kotzebue  Inlet,  or  that  any  party 
from  her  had  doubled  the  Icy  Cape."  '  ' 

Franklin   states   the   distance   traced  westerly  from 
the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie  River  to  have  been  three   ' 
hundred  and  seventy-four  miles,  along  one  of  the  most 


FRANKLIN'S  SECOND  LAND    EXPEDITION. 


137 


ie 


dreary,  miserable,  and  uninteresting"  portions  of  sea-coast 
that  can  perhaps  be  found  in  any  part  of  the  worhl ;  and 
in  all  that  space  not  a  harbor  exists  in  which  a  ship 
could  find  shelter.  ^         > 

On  tlte  21st  of  September  the  party  reached  Fort 
Franklin,  after  a  voyage  of  two  thousand  and  forty-eight 
miles.  Here  they  had  the  happiness  of  meeting  all 
their  friends  in  safety ;  the  eastern  detachment  had 
arrived  on  the  1st  of  September,  after  a  most  successful 
voyage. 

Richardson's  party  had  been  generally  favored  with 
fine  weather.  On  one  occasion  a  storm  compelled  them 
to  take  shelter  in  Refuge  Cove,  in  lat.  69°  29',  which 
they  left  the  following  day.  At  their  halting-place  on 
the  13th  July,  the  doctor  says  :  "  Myriads  of  mosqui- 
tos,  which  reposed  among  the  grass,  rose  in  clouds  when 
disturbed,  and  gave  us  much  annoyance.  Many  snow- 
birds were  hatching  on  the  point ;  and  we  saw  swana, 
Canada  geese,  eider,  king,  Arctic,  and  surf  ducks  ; 
several  glaucous,  sil- 
very, black-headed, 
and  ivory  gulls,  to- 
gether with  terns 
and  northern  divers. 
Some  laughing  geese 
passed  to  the  north- 
ward in  the  evening, 
which  may  be  con- 
sidered as  a  sure  in- 
dication of  land  in 
that  direction."  On 
the  14th  the  party 
took  shelter  from  the  fog  and  a  heavy  gale  in  a  cove 
called  Browell  Cove,  in  latitude  10°,  longitude  130°  19'. 

With  some  interruptions,  their  sail  of  five  hundred 
12* 


EIDER   DUCK. 


(    1 


138 


FRANKLIN'S  SF.COND   LAND   EXPP:DITI<)N. 


i': 


,f  V 


iiiilt'«,  or  nine  hundred  and  two  by  the  cuust-line,  from 
one  river  to  anotlier,  aflbrded  a  pleasant  voyage,  during 
which  they  added  Boniewhat  to  the  stores  of  natural 
history,  botany,  and  geoh)gy. 

A  second  winter  passed  at  the  fort.  The  (Jbld  was 
intense,  the  thermometer  at  one  time  standing  at  58° 
below  zero  ;  but  such  a  temperature  even  as  this  may 
be  defied,  with  a  weather-tight  dwelling,  plenty  of  pro- 
visions, and  congenial  companions.  A  series  of  mag- 
netic observations  was  commenced  ;  and,  as  the  locality 
lay  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  magnetic  polo  to  that 
along  which  Parry  had  sailed  in  his  voyages,  some 
interesting  results  were  arrived  at.  "  It  appears,"  says 
Franklin,  "that  for  the  same  months,  at  the  interval  of 
only  one  year.  Captain  Parry  and  myself  wore  making 
hourly  observations  on  two  needles,  the  north  ends  of 
which  pointed  almost  directly  towards  each  other, 
though  our  actual  distance  did  not  exceed  eight  hun- 
dred and  fifty-five  geographical  miles  ;  and  while  the 
needle  of  Port  Bowen  was  increasing  its  westerly  direc- 
tion, ours  was  increasing  its  easterly,  and  the  contrary 
—  the  variation  being  west  at  Port  Bowen,  and  east  at 
Fort  Franklin  —  a  beautiful  and  satisfactory  proof  of 
the  solar  influence  on  the  daily  variation." 

In  addition  to  magnetism,  observations  of  the  aurora 
borealis  were  also  recorded,  and  the  fact  established 
that  no  disturbance  of  the  needle  (in  that  locality,  at 
least)  takes  place  during  the  play  of  the  phenomenon. 
A  course  of  lectures,  too,  on  practical  geology,  was  de- 
Kvered  by  Richardson  —  an  eminently  useful  subject  in 
a  new  district.  And,  as  an  instance  of  what  a  love  for 
science  may  accomplish,  when  animated  by  a  perse- 
vering and  self-reliant  spirit,  we  must  not  omit  to  men- 
tion Mr.  Drummond,  one  of  the  party,  who  passed  the 
winter  alone  at  the  foot  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  in  a 


FllANKUN'S  SECOND  LAND  EXPEDITION. 


139 


Kmall  hut  erected  by  himself,  whore  he  collected  fifteen 
hundred  specimens  of  plants,  and  two  hundred  birds  and 
quadruped^',  besides  insects.  These,  though  points  of 
minor  interest,  when  compared  witli  the  grand  objects 
of  the  expeditions,  serve,  nevertheless  to  connect  the 
individuals  whose  names  they  distinguish,  by  many 
links  of  sympathy  and  esteem,  with  unobtrusive  thou- 
sands who  can  admire  where  they  cannot  imitate. 


MUSK  OX. 


,  ^•.'ikli 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


SCORESBy's     discoveries.  —  CLAVERINO.  —  PARRY'S     POLAR    VOYAGE.   — 

THE    REINDEER.  —  HECLA    COVE.  —  BOAT    AND     SLEDGE     EXPEDITION.  

NIGHT  TRAVELLING. HUMMOCKS.  —  SOFTENING  OF  THE  ICE.  —  DRIFTING 

OP   THE   FLOES.  —  iTIGHEST  POINT   REACHED.  —  THE   POLAR    BEAR.  —  RE- 
TURN TO  THE  SHIP.  —  HOMEWARD  BOUND. 


While  Parry,  under  tho  auspices  of  the  Britisli  gov- 
ernment, was  engaged  in  his  second  attempt  to  effect 
the  north-west  passage,  a  private  adventurer,  Mr. 
Scoresby,  was  making  a  voyage  towards  the  north 
pole,  which  must  not  be  passed  without  notice.  As 
early  as  1806,  this  gentleman,  who  was  bred  a  practical 
whaleman,  had,  in  the  pursuit  of  his  calling,  penetrated 
to  latitude  81°  30',  being  a  degree  higher  than  Phipps 
had  attained,  and  only  five  hundred  geographical  miles 
from  the  pole.  In  1817  he  also  made  an  excursion  on 
Jan  Mayen's  Island.  He  had,  on  both  occasions, 
made  observations  and  explorations  with  an  intelligent 
and  scientific  eye,  very  unusual  among  those  who  pur- 
sue a  calling  so  rough  and  dangerous  as  whaling. 

At  Mitre  Cape  he  ascended  to  the  summit  of  the  sin- 
gular cliff  of  which  it  consists,  and  which  is  estimated 
to  be  three  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  ocean. 
The  view  is  described  as  sublime :  on  the  east  were 
two  finely-sheltered  bays  ;  the  sea  formed  an  immense 
unruffled  expanse  to  the  west,  the  icebergs  rearing  their 
fantastic  forms,  glittering  in  the  sunshine  ;  the  ^alleyiJ 


'  "^^j 


sm- 
lated 
lean. 

TOTe 

}rise 
thfcir 
leyy 


SCORESBY'S  DISCOVERIES. 


141 


WILD    DUCK. 


were  enamelled  with  beds  of  snow  and  ice,  and  in  the 
interior  mountains  rose  beyond  mountains,  till  they 
melted  in  the  distant  horizon.     The  beach  of  this  cape 

was  found  nearly 
covered  with  the 
nests  of  terns, 
ducks,  and  other 
tenants  of  the 
Arctic  air,  in 
some  of  which 
were  young*,  over 
whom  the  pa- 
rents kept  watch, 
and,  by  loud  cries 
and  quick,  vehe- 
ment movements, 
sought  to  defend  them  against  the  predatory  tribes 
which  hovered  round. 

.  But  the  most  important  discoveries  made  by  Scoresby 
were  in  1822,  when  he  sailed  in  the  ship  Baffin,  of  three 
hundred  and  twenty-one  tons,  and  fifty  men,  for  the 
whale  fishery.  In  search  of  a  better  fishing-ground,  he 
was  led  to  the  eastern  coast  of  Greenland  —  a  tract 
absolutely  unknown,  unless  at  a  few  points  which  the 
Dutch  had  approached  ;  and  it  formed  a  continuous  line 
with  the  shore  on  which  the  colonies  of  old  Greenland, 
the  subject  of  much  controversy,  were  supposed  to  have 
been  situated. 

On  the  8th  of  June,  in  14°  6'  north  latitude,  the  coast 
was  discovered,  extending  fron»  north  to  south  about 
ninety  miles ;  and  of  which  the  most  northerly  point 
was  concluded  to  be  thij.t  named  on  the  charts  Gale 
Ilamkes's  Land,  while  the  most  southerly  appeared  to 
be  Hudson's  Ilold-with-Ilope.  Scoresby's  ambition, 
however,  to  mount  some  of  its  crags,  which  no  European 


'  1 


I 


142 


SCORESBY'S  DISCOVERIES. 


foot  had  ever  trodden,  was  defeated  by  an  impassable 
barrier  of  ice  ;  and  a  similar  one  having  closed  in  behind 
him,  he  was  obliged  to  sail  back  and  forward  several 
days  through  a  narrow  channel.  During  this  interval 
he  had  a  good  opportunity  of  taking  the  bearings  and 
directions  of  the  principal  objects  on  land.  The  lati- 
tudi',  as  given  in  the  maps,  was  tolerably  correct,  and 
was,  indeed,  his  only  guide  in  tracing  the  positions ; 
for  the  longitude,  after  the  most  careful  observation, 
was  found  to  differ  seven  degrees  from  that  in  the  best 
charts,  and  ten  degrees  from  what  is  found  in  those 
usually  supplied  to  the  whale-fishers.  The  country  was 
generally  mountainous,  rugged,  and  barren,  bearing 
much  resemblance  to  Spitzbergen,  though  less  covered 
with  snow. 

Scoresby  followed  the  usual  system  of  naming  the 
more  prominent  objects  in  the  territory  embraced  by  his 
discoveries.  The  two  principal  bays,  or  inlets,  were 
designated  Captain  Kater  and  Sir  Walter  Scott ;  while 
two  spacious  forelands,  or  projecting  peninsulas  —  the 
former  supposed  to  be  an  island  —  were  assigned  to 
Dr.  Wollaston  and  Sir  Everard  Home.  Other  bays  and 
capes  were  bestowed  on  some  of  the  author's  personal 
friends.  He  now  made  a  movement  eastward,  in  search 
of  whales,  of  which  he  found  no  traces  in  the  vicinity  of 
land. 

On  the  19th  of  July  the  navigators  came  in  view  of  a 
range  of  coast  of  a  very  bold  and  peculiar  character, 
extending  about  forty  miles.  It  presented  a  mountain 
chain  from  three  to  fonr  thousand  feet  high,  rising  at 
once  from  the  beach  in  precipitous  cliffs,  which  termi- 
nated in  numberless  peaks,  cones,  and  pyramids.  In 
one  instance  there  appeared  to  rise  six  or  seven  tall 
parallel  chimneys,  one  of  which,  crowned  with  two  ver- 
tical towers,   was  called  Church   Mount.     This   coast 


1 


SCORESBY'S  DISCOVERIES. 


143 


received  the  name  of  Liverpool,  while  to  the  mountains 
was  given  that  of  Roscoe.  The  range  of  shore  termi- 
nated at  Cape  Hodgson  ;  beyond  which,  liowever,  steer- 
ijig  south-west,  they  descried  three  other  promontories  ; 
to  these  were  successively  given  the  appellation  of  Cape 
Lister,  Cape  Swainson,  and  Cape  Tobin.  • 

i  Here  Scoresby  landed  ;  when  he  found  the  beach 
much  lower  than  that  further  to  the  north,  and  consist- 
ing, in  a  great  measure,  of  loose,  stony  hills.  After 
some  examination,  he  came,  nenr  Cape  Swainson,  to  an 
enclosure  similar  to  those  which  the  Esquimaux  con- 
struct for  their  summer  huts,  and  within  which  were 
hollow  structures,  like  bee-hives,  such  as  they  use  for 
stores. 

Resuming  his  course  at  sea,  and  still  holding  south- 
westwaid,  he  now  discovered  a  spacious  inlet,  to  which, 
in  looking  upwards,  no  boundary  could  be  seen.  While 
penetrating  this  opening,  he  observed  another  sound 
branching  to  the  northward  behind  the  Liverpool  coast, 
and  supposed  to  form  it  into  an  island.  The  opposite 
shore  of  this  entrance  was  named  Jameson's  Land,  from 
the  eminent  professor  of  natural  history  in  Edinburgh. 
Beyond  Cape  Hooker,  the  southern  point  of  the  coast 
just  described,  another  large  inlet  stretched  towards  the 
north,  to  which  was  given  the  name  of  Basil  Hall.  It 
had  every  appearance  of  converting  Jameson's  Land 
into  an  island  ;  and  the  coast  to  the  westward  of  it 
received  the  name  of  Milne's  Land,  Between  Cape 
Leslie,  constituting  the  northern  point  of  that  coast, 
and  Cape  Stevenson,  on  the  opposite  shore,  the  original 
opening  continued  to  stretch  into  the  interior,  without 
any  appearance  of  a  termination.  There  appeared  a 
strong  presumption  that,  instead  of  the  continuous  mass 
of  land  which  our  maps  represent,  Greenland  composes 
only  an  immense  archipelago  of  islands.     To  this  great 


m 

■■  I; 


144 


SCORESBY'S  DISCOVERIES. 


inlet,  the  entrance  of  which  was  bounded  by  Cape  Tobin 
on  the  north,  and  Cape  Brewster  on  the  south,  the  nav- 
igator gave  the  name  of  his  father,  though  posterity  will 
probably  be  apt  to  associate  with  himself  the  name  of 
"  Scoresby's  Sound." 

These  coasts,  especially  that  of  Jameson's  Land,  were 
found  richer  in  plants  and  verdure  than  any  others  seen 
on  this  occasion  within  the  Arctic  circle,  and  almost 
meriting  the  distinction  of  Greenland.  The  grass  rose 
in  one  place  to  a  foot  in  height,  and  there  were  mead- 
ows of  several  acres,  which  appeared  nearly  equal  to 
any  in  England.  But  nowhere  could  a  human  being  be 
discovered,  though  there  were  everywhere  traces  of 
recent  and  even  frequent  inhabitation.  At  the  foot  of 
certain  cliffs,  named  after  Dr.  Neill,  were  several  ham- 
lets of  some  extent.  The  huts  appear  to  have  been 
wmter  abodes,  not  constructed  of  snow-slabs,  like  the 
cells  of  the  Esquimaux  of  Hudson's  Bay,  but  resembling 
those  of  the  Greenlanderr,  dug  deep  in  the  ground, 
entered  by  a  long  winding  passage  or  funnel,  and  roofed 
with  a  wooden  frame  overlaid  with  moss  and  earth. 
The  mansion  had  thus  the  appearance  of  a  slight  hillock. 
Near  the  hamlets  were  excavations  in  the  earth,  serving 
as  graves,  where  implements  of  hunting,  found  along 
with  the  bones  of  the  deceased,  proved  the  prevalence 
here  of  the  general  belief  of  savage  nations,  that  the 
employments  of  man  in  the  future  life  will  exactly 
resemble  those  of  the  present. 

On  emerging  from  this  large  sound,  and  proceeding 
southward,  Scoresby  discovered  another  continuous 
range  of  coast. 

Disappointed  as  to  any  appearance  of  whales  on  this 
coast,  he  again  steered  to  the  northward,  where  ice- 
bergs surrounded  him,  amounting  at  one  place  to  the 
number  of  five  hundred.     This  course  brought  him  in  a 


fe  Tobin 
;he  nav- 
rity  will 
lame  of 

id,  were 
Drs  seen 
almost 
iss  rose 
e  raead- 
squal  to 
)eing  be 
aces  of 
foot  of 
•al  ham- 
^e  been 
[ike  the 
3mbling 
ground, 
I  roofed 
[  earth, 
hillock, 
serving 
d  along 
valence 
hat  the 
exactly 

3eeding 
tinuous 


I  ' 


on  this 
jre  ice- 
to  the 
ira  in  a 


Oi 

oi 

■■A 
C 


o 

o 
a 

•< 

PS 

o 

U 


K-     1 


8a»H^ 


•  m\m 


115 


ohin^  still  b.i'^!»*^r 
wjnctiiK';  them  witii 


09 


S5 

o 

< 

a 

CM 


.'red.     There  r.p- 
iM^ly    insular,   to 

•■.  iiainod  Sir 

i  ••iiitl  witli 

vvliore  he 

'.'•«:  k   ftiW 

•!  was 


few  *:>i\>  within  sigli 
ihtui  ili  >$;t' ror':iitiv  rfui' 
the  ovh'.M-^    which   he  hu'"    -' 
poured    I'v      l:trjjjo    tcrrii*  ;•' 
whi'-h  won;  given  the  nam«!H  <>? 
belw(M;n   thcrii  way  a  most  b, 
Ilvihs^iuo;'  i'avy.     Jio  landed  t'.ii   : 
ificn  tlihU*  i^^il  t'iftrj-ib*  rod   lo  the  lo^- 
hopcii   to  hav»;   fi>in«d   '^  !«'nali  pliiii' 
K{»eciiMejj«  of  Af*;i  -ioi' ;  but  en- 

•Hteeper  thai)  the  rv;.»  ;.i^^:hed  ru..i 

'.fi'l,  jiiid  net.  ibe  vijjjrt  -  ■  .  .-\^;       tfji  u  litti<-   ntjutf-tliAiryfrt 
;;-  would  have  foinid   much   -^   *       ♦"v  fn"  Rlidin^:  duvs'iu 

-  -  ,  ^*iik        ^^  -.«* 

«ii.'"  inlet,  iiaiuod  u'r  c  T.oril  M  ■  '■  v 

'■<■«,  the  j»'«h'iftd  oxtrcmiiv  "t' wiii 

V      Tlii»i  j?r.' fscfttory  hoing  at  rn   ,..     ,  -. 

v;  rrt'yf^kfOt.  whici;  h,)d  hi»f»u  seeii  in  tho  .^mi 

^'*»y,  fifit^fi^   <sr»f  thus  contphjt^^d  th«  obhu-rvatitin  of  a 

-f     •    of  feHir  is-itidjHMi  TEilef?  of  coayt,  formerly  known 

'he  irioe.t  Ip^jj^rpi^i  notice.".,  and   udiioh   n^ight, 

V^  ^itrietlv  00.J  idcrod  :*?*  a  now  di?4<.'<>v'»ry. 

■   rwariia  appi*'«i.*(.'h.o<i  more  rhis'dy  i(   i'xu- 

u'trate'i  a  fion.-id  betwiMMi  it  ma]  the 

.  »»;'tr'''ntly   with    HnrrN 'k  Inhd.     lie 

•  Ivi  ^ii:«iaRin&  iiH>re  of  the  Orcci!- 

♦ffVm  hii^l  i\  (air  proeirt'i* 


<fiA'!.     i-  '  /"."S-,  ^.  • 


.K'-:-'  ;^. 


(?» 


(   ;••    M    *  .     'r'r         I 


-.rf^iiVi  •     »> 


i.il 


yi: 


V^b;-;! 


a 


-•y-op."' 


iVi 


cc 


-"*>?»ii>»i^- 


"^^ 


'»:%'- 


#1^ 


:si 


"I  ■         * 


SCORESBY'S  DISCOVERIES. 


145 


few  days  within  sight  of  lands  stretching  still  higher 
than  those  recently  surveyed,  and  coiniecting  them  wivh 
the  others  which  he  had  first  discovered.  There  ap- 
peared two  large  territories,  seemingly  insular,  to 
which  were  given  the  names  of  Canning  and  Traill ;  and 
between  them  was  a  most  spacious  inlet,  named  Sir 
Humphrey  Davy.  lie  landed  on  Traill  Island,  and  with 
incredible  toil  clambered  to  the  top  of  a  hill,  where  he 
hoped  to  have  found  a  small  plain  cont;  '  Ang  a  few 
specimens  of  Arctic  vegetation  ;  but  this  ui  mit  was 
steeper  than  the  most  narrowly-pitched  r(  )f  of  a  house  ; 
and,  had  not  the  opposite  side  been  a  little  smoother, 
he  would  have  found  much  difficulty  in  s  "ding  down. 
Beyond  this  island,  and  separated  from  *t  by  a  consider- 
able inlet,  named  after  Lord  Mountnorns,  was  another 
coast,  the  pointed  extremity  of  which  received  the  name 
of  Parry.  This  promontory  being  at  no  great  distance 
from  Cape  Freycinct,  which  had  been  seen  in  the  first 
survey,  there  was  thus  completed  the  observation  of  a 
range  of  four  hundred  miles  of  coast,  formerly  known 
only  by  the  most  imperfect  notices,  and  which  might, 
therefore,  be  strictly  considered  as  a  new  discovery. 

Scoresby  afterwards  approached  more  closely  to  Can- 
ning Island,  and  penetrated  a  sound  between  it  and  the 
main,  connected  apparently  with  Hurry's  Inlet.  He 
would  have  been  happy  to  examine  more  of  the  Green- 
land coast,  having  on  one  occasion  had  a  fair  prospect 
of  being  able  to  run  southward  to  Cape  Farewell ;  but 
the  ship  was  not  his  own,  and  his  duty  to  his  employers 
compelled  him  to  turn  in  another  direction.  He  had 
hitherto  met  with  much  disappointment ;  and,  the  sea- 
son being  far  advanced,  he  was  apprehensive  of  being- 
obliged  to  return  with  a  deficient  cargo.  But,  on  the 
15th  of  August,  numerous  whales  appeared  round  the 
ship  ;  of  these  five  were  struck,  and  three  taken,  which 
13 


146 


CLAVERINO. 


i: 


at  once  rendcrod  the  ship  fidl-finhed,  and  placed  him 
among"  tiie  most  successful  adventurers  of  the  year, 
lie  could,  therefore,  return  with  satisfactory  feelings  ; 
and  the  pleasure  of  the  voyage  homeward  was  only 
alloyed  by  the  occurrence  of  a  violent  storm  off  Lewis, 
in  which  Sum  Chambers,  one  of  the  most  esteemed  and 
active  of  his  crew,  was  washed  overboard. 

To  these  discoveries  some  additions  were  made  next 
year  by  Captain  Clavering,  who  was  employed  by  the 
British  Admiralty  to  convey  Captain  Sabine  to  different 
stations  in  the  Arctic  Sea,  for  the  purpose  of  making 
obHorvations  on  the  comparative  length  of  the  pendu- 
lum, as  affected  by  the  principle  of  attraction. 

Clavering  sailed  on  the  3d  of  May,  1823,  and  on  the 
2d  of  June  arrived  at  Ilammerfest,  in  Norway,  where  he 
landed  the  philosopher  with  his  tents  and  instruments. 
The  observations  being  completed,  he  weighed  anchor 
on  the  23d,  reached  the  northern  coast  of  Spitzbergen, 
and  fixed  on  a  small  island  between  Vogel  Sang  and 
Cloven  Cliff  for  further  operations. 

He  left  this  coast  oii  the  22d  of  July,  and  steered  for 
the  eastern  shores  of  Greenland,  of  which  he  came  in 
view  on  the  5th  of  August.  The  scene  appeared  the 
most  desolate  he  had  ever  beheld.  The  mountains  rose 
to  the  height  of  several  thousand  feet,  without  a  vestige 
of  vegetation,  or  the  appearance  of  any  living  creature 
on  the  earth  or  in  the  air.  Even  the  dreary  waste  of 
Spitzbergen  appeared  a  paradise  to  this.  He  landed 
his  passenger  and  the  scientific  apparatus  on  two  islands 
detached  from  the  eastern  shore  of  the  continent,  which 
he  called  the  Pendulum  Islands,  and  of  which  the  out- 
ermost point  is  marked  by  a  bold  headland  rising  to  the 
height  of  three  thousand  feet. 

While  Sabine  was  employed  in  his  peculiar  researches, 
the  other  surveyed  a  part  of  the  coast  which  lay  to  the 


If 

II 


, 


:* 


( 


CLAVERING. 


147 


nortlnvanl,  being  tho  first  wliich  Scorosby  saw.  It  lay 
at  some  distance,  with  an  icy  barrier  interposed  ;  but 
was  found  indented  witli  deep  and  wpacious  bays,  sus- 
pected even  to  penetrate  so  far  as  to  convert  all  tiiis 
range  of  coast  into  a  cluster  of  islands.  The  iidet 
which  the  former  navigator  had  assigned  to  Sir  Walter 
Scott  was  believed  by  Clavering  to  be  that  discovered 
by  the  Dutch  mariner,  Gale  llamkes  ;  but  we  have  not 
ventured  to  remove  this  last  from  the  more  northerly 
position  preferred  by  the  scientific  whaler.  Other 
openings,  which  occurred  in  proceeding  towards  the 
north,  were  named  by  the  captain  P^oster's  Bay,  Ardin- 
caple,  and  Koseneath  Inlets  ;  and  he  saw  bold  and  high 
land  still  stretching  in  this  direction  as  far  as  the 
seventy-sixth  degree  of  latitude. 

In  regard  to  the  natives  this  commander  was  more 
fortunate  than  his  predecessor,  who  saw  only  their 
deserted  habitations.  On  landing  at  a  point  on  tho 
southern  coast  of  Sir  Walter  Scott's  Inlet,  he  received 
intelligence  of  Esquimaux  having  been  seen  at  the  dis- 
tance of  a  mile,  and  hastened  thither  with  one  of  his 
officers.  The  natives,  on  seeing  them,  immediately  ran 
to  the  top  of  some  rocks  ;  but  the  English  advanced, 
made  friendly  signs,  deposited  a  mirror  and  a  pair  of 
worsted  mittens  at  the  foot  of  the  precipice,  and  then 
retired.  The  savages  came  down,  took  these  articles, 
and  carried  them  away  to  the  place  of  their  retreat ;  but 
they  soon  allowed  the  strangers  to  approach  them, 
though  their  hands,  when  shaken,  were  found  to  trem- 
ble violently.  By  degrees  confidence  was  established, 
and  they  conducted  the  visitors  to  their  tent,  five  feet 
high,  and  twelve  in  circumference,  composed  of  wood 
and  whalebone.  Their  aspect  and  conformation,  their 
boats  and  implements,  exactly  corresponded  to  those 
observed  by  Parry  and  Lyon  in  Hudson's  Bay.    A  child, 


!(     i 


:! 


ill  I    ; 

ijiil:  ! 


148 


PARRY'S  POLAR  VOYAGE. 


after  boing  diligoiitly  cleared  of  its  thick  coatinpf  of  dirt 
and  oil,  was  found  to  have  a  tawny,  copper-colored 
Bkin.  Tlie  natives  were  astonished  and  alarmed  beyond 
measure  by  the  efl'ect  of  fire-anns.  A  seal  bein}^  shot, 
one  of  them  was  sent  to  fetch  it.  He  examined  it  all 
over  till  he  found  the  hole  made  by  the  ball,  when, 
thrusting  his  finger  into  it,  he  set  up  a  shout  of  aston- 
ishment, dancing  and  cajjering  in  the  most  extravagant 
manner.  Another  was  prevailed  upon  to  fire  a  pistol ; 
but  instantly,  on  hearing  the  report,  start(.'d  and  ran 
back  into  the  tent.  ' 

The  observations  were  not  completed  till  the  begin- 
ning of  September,  when  the  season  was  too  late  to 
allow  Clavering  to  gratify  his  wish  of  making  a  run  to 
the  northward.  Nor  did  ho  extricate  himself  from  the 
ice  without  some  severe  shocks  ;  but  nevertheless,  after 
spending  six  weeks  at  Drontheim,  ho  entered  the 
Thames  about  the  middle  of  December. 

After  the  abortive  voyage  of  Buchan  and  Franklin,  in 
1818,  no  further  attempt  was  made  to  reach  the  pole  in 
shij)^ ;  but  a  plan  was  devised  to  accomplish  that  object 
in  vehicles  drawn  over  the  frozen  surface  of  the  ocean 
—  a  scheme  first  suggested  by  Scorcsby,  who  endeav- 
ored to  prove  that  such  a  journey  was  neither  so  vision- 
ary nor  so  very  perilous  as  it  might  appear  to  those 
who  were  unacquainted  with  the  Arctic  regions. 

His  suggestions  did  not,  for  a  considerable  time, 
attract  attention  ;  but  at  length  Captain  Parry,  after  his 
three  brilliant  voyages  to  the  north-west,  finding  reason 
to  suspect  that  his  further  progress  in  that  direction 
was  hopeless,  turned  his  thoughts  to  the  probability  of 
penetrating  over  the  frozen  sea  to  the  pole.  Combining 
Scoresby's  ideas  with  his  own  observations,  and  with  a 
series  of  reflections  derived  by  Captain  Franklin  from 
his  extensive  experience,  he  submitted  to  the  Lords  of 


PARRY'S  rOLAR  VOYAGE. 


149 


tho  Admiralty  the  plan  of  an  expotlition  over  the  polar 
ice.  Their  lordHliips,  liaviiig  referred  this  proposal  to 
tho  council  and  comniitteo  of  tho  Koyul  Society,  and 
received  a  favorable  report  as  to  tho  advantages  which 
science  might  derive  from  such  a  journey,  applied  them- 
selves with  their  usual  alacrity  to  supi)ly  the  captain 
with  everything  which  could  assist  him  in  this  bold 
undertaking. 

The  IIe<  la  was  employed  to  carry  him  to  the  northern 
coast  of  Ijpitzbergen,  where  she  was  to  be  secured  in  a 
safe  liarbor  or  cove  ;  and  with  her  were  sent  two  boats, 
to  be  dragged  or  navigated,  according  to  circumstances, 
from  that  island  to  the  polo.  These  boats  being  framed 
of  ash  and  hickory,  covered  with  water-proof  canvas, 
over  which  were  successive  planks  of  fir  and  oak,  with 
a  sheet  of  stout  felt  interposed,  united  the  greatest  pos- 
sible degree  of  strength  and  elasticity.  The  interior 
was  made  capacious,  and  flat-floored,  somewhat  as  in 
troop-boats  ;  and  a  runner,  attached  to  each  side  of  tho 
keel,  fitted  them  to  be  drawn  along  the  ice  like  a  sledge. 
Wheels  were  also  taken  on  board,  in  case  their  use 
should  be  found  practicable. 

Tho  adventurers  started  on  the  2Tth  of  March,  182t, 
and  on  the  19th  of  April  entered  tho  fine  harbor  of 
Hammerfest,  in  Norway,  where  they  remained  two  or 
three  weeks,  and  took  on  board  eight  reindeer,  with  a 
quantity  of  picked  moss  for  their  provender.  Departing 
on  the  11th  of  May,  they  soon  found  themselves  among 
til  ice,  and  met  a  number  of  whale-ships.  On  the  13th 
they  were  in  view  of  Ilakluyt's  Headland,  when  tho 
captain  endeavored  to  push  his  way  to  the  north-east, 
in  the  track  of  Phipps.  The  vessel,  however,  was  soon 
completely  beset,  and  even  enclosed  in  a  large  floe,  which 
carried  her  slowly  along  with  it. 

As  every  day  was  now  an  irretrievable  loss,  Parry 
13* 


150 


PARRY'S  POLAR  VOYAGE. 


ii\ 


:  J 


became  impatient  in  the  extreme,  and  formed  a  plan  to 
push  off  northward,  leaving  the  ship  to  find  a  harbor  for 
herself,  where  he  trusted,  on  his  return,  to  trace  her 
out.  But  the  survey  of  the  route  in  the  proposed  di- 
rection was  most  discouraging.  In  consequence  of 
some  violent  agitation  the  preceding  season,  the  ice  had 
been  piled  up  in  innumerable  hummocks,  causing  the 
sea  to  resemble  a  stone-mason's  yard,  except  that  it 
contained  masses  ten  times  larger.  This  state  of  the 
surface,  which  would  have  rendered  it  impossible  to 
drag  the  boats  more  than  a  mile  in  the  day,  was  found 
to  prevail  for  a  considerable  space  with  little  interrup- 
tion. 

The  current,  meantime,  continued  to  carry  the  ship, 
with  the  floe  to  which  she  was  fastened,  slowly  to  the 
eastward,  till  it  brought  her  into  shoal  water.  Parry 
lowered  a  boat,  and  found  some  heavy  masses  of  ice 
attached  to  the  bottom  in  six  fathoms  ;  after  which  he 
felt  it  quite  out  of  the  question  to  leave  her  with  a 
diminished  crew,  and  exposed  to  so  much  danger,  aris- 
ing from  the  combined  difficulty  of  unsurveyed  ground 
and  Ice.  Tl.ie  conclusion  was  therefore  irresistibly 
forced  upon  his  mind,  that  a  secure  harbor  must  be 
sought  for  the  vessel  before  setting  out  with  the  boats. 
No  choice  was  then  left  but  to  steer  back  for  the  coast 
of  Spitzbergon,  where  he  unexpectedly  lighted  on  a 
very  convenient  recess,  named  by  him  Hecla  Cove  ;  and 
it  proved  to  be  part  of  the  bay  to  which  an  old  Dutch 
chart  gives  the  name  of  Treurenbcrg. 

The  animals  met  with  here  during  the  ITecla's  stay 
were  principally  reindeer,  bears,  foxes,  kittiwakes, 
glaucous  and  ivory  gulls,  torn,  eider-ducks,  and  a  few 
grouse.  Looms  and  rotgcs  were  numerous  in  the  offing. 
Seventy  reindeer  were  killed,  chiefly  very  small,  and, 
UTLtil  the   middle   of  August,  not  in   good   condition. 


M 


■    ri 


I 


PVRRY'S  POLAR  VOYAGE. 


151 


^ 


:  1 


Thoy  wore  usually  met  with  in  herds  of  from  six  or 
oig-hi  to  twenty,  and  were  most  abundant  on  the  west 
and  north  sides  of  the  bay.  Three  bears  were  killed. 
The  vegetation  %vas  tolerably  abundant. 

The  neighborhood  of  this  bay,  like  most  of  the  north- 
ern shores  of  Spitzbergen,  appears  to  have  been  much 
visited  by  the  Dutch  at  a  very  early  period.  There  are 
thirty  graves  on  a  point  of  land  on  the  north  side  of  the 
bay.  The  l)odies  are  usually  deposited  in  an  oblong 
wooden  coffin,  which,  on  account  of  the  difficulty  of 
digging  the  ground,  is  not  buried,  but  merely  covered 
by  large  stones  ;  and  a  board  is  generally  placed  near 
the  head,  having,  either  cut  or  paiuted  upon  it,  the 
name  of  the  deceased,  with  those  of  his  sliip  and  com- 
mander, and  the  month  and  year  of  his  burial.  Several 
of  these  wore  fifty  or  sixty  y».ars  old  ;  one  bore  the  date 
pf  1138  ;  and  another,  which  Pai-ry  foiand  on  thQ.bqach 


6  ?^ 


i.tjiMir»»jB^«iii»:i" 


152 


PARRY'S  POLAR  VOYAGE. 


■i:n 


to  the  eastward  of  Ilecla  Cove,  that  of  1600 ;  the  in- 
scription distinctly  appearing  in  prominent  relief,  occa- 
sioned by  the  preservation  of  the  wood  by  the  paint, 
while  the  iinpainted  part  had  decayed  around  it. 

It  was  now  the  20th  of  June,  and  the  best  of  the 
season  had  been  spent  in  beating  backwards  and  for- 
wards on  these  ice-bound  shores  :  he  therefore  resolved, 
without  further  delay,  to  prosecute  the  main  object  of 
his  enterprise  ;  and,  though  scarcely  hoping  to  reach  the 
polo,  he  determined,  at  all  events,  to  push  as  far  north  as 
possible.  He  took  with  him  seventy-one  days'  provi- 
sion, consisting  of  pemmican,  biscuit,  cocoa,  and  rum. 
The  spirit  of  wine,  as  the  most  portable  and  concen- 
trated fuel,  was  alone  used  for  that  purpose.  There 
were  provided  changes  of  warm  clothing,  thick  fur 
dresses  for  sleeping  in,  and  strong  Esouimaux  boots. 
The  reindeer,  and  also  the  wheels,  were  given  up  at 
once,  as  altogether  useless  in  the  present  rugged  state 
of  the  ice  ;  but  four  sledges,  constructed  out  of  the 
native  snow-shoes,  proved  very  convenient  for  dragging 
along  the  baggage. 

On  the  22d  of  June  the  expeditionary  party  quitted 
the  ship,  and  betook  themselves  to  the  boats,  amid  the 
cheers  of  their  associates.  Although  all  the  shores 
were  still  frozen,  they  had  an  open  sea,  calm  and  smooth 
as  a  mirror,  through  "wdiich,  with  their  loaded  vessels, 
they  advanced  slowly,  but  agreeably.  After  proceeding 
thus  for  about  eighty  miles,  they  reached,  not,  as 
they  had  hoped,  the  main  body  of  the  ice,  but  a  surface 
iutermediato  between  ice  and  water.  Tliis  could  neither 
be  walked  nor  sailed  over,  but  was  to  be  passed  by  the 
two  methods  alternately  ;  and  it  was  on  such  a  strange 
■and  perilous  plain  that  they  had  to  laud,  in  order  to 
commence  their  laborious  journey  toward  the  pole. 
^  l"  Parry  describes  in  an  interesting  manner  the  singular 


% 


1)  a  '  0 


■a     0 
n  « 


•i  .« 


PARRY'S  POLAR  VOYAGE. 


153 


mode  of  travelling  which  they  were  compelled  to  ado{)t. 
The  first  step  was  to  convert  night  into  day  —  to  begin 
their  journey  in  the  evening,  and  end  it  in  the  morning. 
Thus,  while  they  had  quite  enough  of  light,  they 
avoided  the  snow-glare,  and  the  blindness  wliich  it 
usually  produces  ;  besides,  the  ice  was  drier  and  harder 
beneath  them ;  and  they  enjoyed  the  greatest  warmth 
when  it  was  most  wanted,  during  the  period  of  sleep, 
though  they  were  a  little  annoyed  by  dense  and  fre- 
quent fogs.  Thus  their  notions  of  night  and  day  became 
inverted.  Several  of  tljo  men  declared  that  they  never 
knew  night  from  day,  during  the  whole  excursion.  They 
rose  in  what  they  called  the  morning,  but  which  was 
really  late  in  the  evening,  and,  having  performed  their 
devotions,  breakfasted  on  warm  cocoa  and  biscuit ;  then, 
drawing  on  their  boots,  usually  cither  wet  or  hard 
frozen,  and  which,  though  pcrlectly  dried,  would  have 
been  erjually  soaked  in  fifteen  minutes,  the  party  trav- 
elled five  or  six  hours,  and  a  little  after  midnight  stopped 
to  dine.  Tliey  next  accomplished  an  equal  journey  in 
what  wai?  called  the  afternoon  ;  and  '.n  the  evening,  that 
is,  at  an  advanced  hour  in  the  moriving,  halted  as  for  the 
niglit.  After  applying  themselves  to  obtain  rest  and 
comfort,  they  put  on  dry  stockings  and  fur  boots, 
cooked  something  warm  lor  supper,  smoked  their  pipes, 
told  over  their  exploil.s,  and,  forgetting  the  toils  of  the 
day,  enjoyed  an  interval  of  uase  and  gayety  ;  then,  well 
wrapped  in  their  fur  cloaks,  they  lay  down  in  the  boat, 
rather  too  close  together,  perhaps,  but  with  very  tolera- 
l>le  comfort;  and  in  due  time  the  sound  of  a  bugle 
roused  them  to  their  breakfast  of  cocoa,  and  to  a  repe- 
tition of  the  same  arduous  duties.        ■>     «   "'.»,''  -"  '•   ° 

The  progress  for  several  days  was  iKiost  slow  antl 
laborious.  The  Hoes  wore  small,  exccodingly  rough, 
and  intersected  by  lanes  of  water,  which  emildvixot  be 


"V   g 


ft 


1   t 

i,'  * 


154 


PARRY'S  POLAR  VOYAGE. 


n    f ; 


crossed  without  iinloadiug  the  boats.  It  wad  commonly 
necessary  to  convey  tlicse  "and  the  stores  by  two  stages  ; 
and  the  sailors,  being  obh'ged  to  return  for  the  second 
portion,  liad  to  go  three  times  over  the  same  ground. 
Sometimes  they  were  obliged  to  make  three  stages,  and 
thus  to  pass  over  it  five  tiuies. 

There  fell  as  much  rain  as  they  had  experienced  dur- 
ing the  whole  course  of  seven  years  in  the  lower  lati- 
tude. A  great  deal  of  the  ice  over  which  they  travelled 
was  formed"  into  numberless  irregular  needle-like  crys- 
tals, standing  upwards,  and  pointed  at  botn  ends.  The 
horizontal  surface  of  this  part  had  sometimes  the  ap- 
pearance of  greenish  velvet,  while  the  vertical  sections, 
when  in  a  compact  s'.ate,  resembled  the  most  beautiful 
satin  spar,  and  asbestos  when  going  to  pieces.  These 
peculiar  wedges,  it  was  supposed,  were  produced  by 
the  drops  of  rain  piercing  through  the  superhcial  ice. 
The  needles  at  first  afforded  tolerably  firm  looting  ;  but, 
becoming  always  more  loose  and  movable  as  the  sum- 
mer advanced,  they  at  last  cut  the  boots  and  feet  at-'  ii' 
they  had  been  pen-knives.  Occasionally,  too,  there 
arose  hummocks  so  elevated  and  rugged  that  the  boats 
could  only  be  borne  over  tuetu.  in  a  c^irection  almost 
perpendicular,  by  those  vigorous  operations  called  "  a 
standing  pull  and  a  bowline  haul." 

The  result  of  all  this  was,  that  a  severe  exertion  of 
five  or  six  hours  did  not  usually  produce  a  progress  of 
above  a  mile  and  a  half  or  two  milea,  and  that  in  a  wind- 
ing direction  ;  so  that,  after  having  entered  upon  the 
ice  on  the  24th  of  June,  in  latitude  81°  13',  they  found 
themselves  on  the  29th  only  in  81"  23',  having  thus 
inade  oidy  about  eight  miles  of  direct  nortliin^  Parry 
Boor  .'clinquished  all  hope  of  reaching  the  polo  •  how- 
ever, it  was  re»olvod  to  push  on  as  far  as  j^ossible  ;  and 
°ti',e  party  coming  at  length  to  somewhat  smoother  ice 


^'    °„  -f 


o  o    » 


f» 


I 


tra " 


■ift 


PARBY'3  POLAR  VOYAGE. 


155 


a 


and  larger  floes,  made  rather  better  progress.  While 
the  boats  were  landing  on  one  of  these,  the  commander 
and  Lieut.  Koss  usually  pushed  on  to  the  other  end,  to 
ascertain  tlie  best  course.  On  reaching  the  extremity, 
they  commonly  mounted  the  largest  hummock,  whence 
they  beheld  a  Hij-'at  of  which  nothhig  could  exceed  the 
dreariness.  The  eye  rested  solely  upon  ice,  and  a  sky 
hid  in  dense  and  dismal  fogs. 

One  warm  day,  two  flies  on  the  ice  were  regarded 
with  a  degree  of  attention  that  would  have  been  ludi- 
crous under  other  circumstances  ;  and  equally  important 
was  the  sight  of  an  ap/i/.s  horealin,  in  a  languid  state,  a 
hundred  miles  away  from  land.  Amid  this  scene  of 
inanimate  desolation,  the  view  of  a  passing  bird,  or  of 
ice  in  anj"  peculiar  shape,  excited  an  intense  interest, 
which  they  smiled  to  recollect ;  but  they  were  princi- 
pally cheered  by  viewing  the  two  boats  in  the  distance, 
the  movhig  figures  of  the  men  winding  with  their  sledges 
among  the  hummocks,  and  by  hearing  the  sound  of 
human  voices,  which  broke  the  silence  of  this  frozen 
wilderness.  The  rain  and  the  increasing  warmth  of  the 
season,  indeed,  gradually  softened  the  ice  and  snow, 
but  this  only  caused  the  travellers  to  sink  deeper  at 
every  step.  At  one  place  they  sank  repeatedly  three 
feet,  and  required  three  hours  to  make  a  hundred  yards. 
ITaving  attained  82°  40',  they  began  to  hold  it  as  a  fixed 
point  that  their  efforts  would  be  crowned  with  success 
80  far  as  to  reach  the  eighty-third  parallel.  This  hope 
seemed  converted  into  certainty  when,  on  the  22d,  they 
had  travelled  seventeen  miles,  the  greater  proportion  of 
which  was  directly  i.orth.  But  tliore  now  occurred  an 
unfavorable  change,  which  l)aIIlod  all  their  exertions.  ;  ' 

Down  to  the  19th,  the  wind  had  blown  steadily  from 
the  south,  which,  though  without  aiding  theni  miach.,-' 
lad  at  least  chocked  the  usual  movement  of  the.  io.e?iii^' 


''i 


'f't 


1    ■;  ' 


^1 


156 


PARRY'S  POLiVR  VOYAGE. 


that  direction.  On  the  last  of  these  clays,  however,  a 
breeze  sprang  up  from  the  north,  which  opened,  indeed, 
a  few  lanes  of  water ;  but  this,  it  was  feared,  could  not 
compensate  for  the  manner  in  which  it  must  cause  the 
loosened  masses  of  ice,  with  the  travellers  upon  them, 
to  drift  to  the  southward.  Tliis  effect  was  soon  found 
to  take  place  to  an  extent  still  more  alarming  than  had 
been  at  first  anticipated ;  for,  instead  of  ten  or  twelve 
miles,  which  they  reckoned  themselves  to  have  achieved 
northward  on  the  22d,  they  were  found  not  to  have 
made  quite  four.  This  most  discouraging  fact  was  at 
first  concealed  from  the  sailors,  who  onlv  remarked  that 
they  were  very  long  in  getting  to  the  eighty-third  degree. 
The  expedition  was  now  fast  approaching  the  utmost 
limits  of  animal  life.  During  their  long  journey  of  the 
22d,  they  only  saw  two  seals,  a  fish,  and  a  bird.  On 
the  24th  only  one  solitary  rolge  was  heard  ;  and  it  might 
be  piosumed  that;  from  thence  i;o  the  pole,  all  would  bo 
a  uniform  scene  of  silence  and  solitude.  The  adventur- 
ers pushed  on  without  hesitation  beyond  the  realms  of 
life  ;  but  now,  after  three  days  of  bad  travelling,  when 
their  reckoning  gave  them  ten  or  eleven  miles  of  prog- 
ress, observation  showed  them  to  be  four  miles  south  of 
the  position  which  they  occupied  on  the  evening  of  the 
22d  —  the  drifting  of  the  snow-fields  having  in  that  time 
carried  them  fourteen  miles  backward. 

This  WPS  too  much ;  and  to  reach  even  the  eighty- 
third  degvciv  though  only  twenty  miles  distant,  was 
now  I>ejond  .11  reasonable  hope.     To  ask  the  men  to 
V,  undergo  f;  ■jh    inparallelod  toil  and  hardship,  with  the 
'danger  oi  their  means  being  exhausted,  while  an  invisi- 
ble  power   undid   what   their   most    strenuous    labors 
acjomplishtd,  was  contrary  to  the  views  of  their  con- 
fiderato  commander.     In  short,  he  determined  that  they 
: .  felould  V  takp;  a  dg_y  Qf  ^.^g^^  r,^^^  ^^iqh  get  out  on  their 


# 


1 1 

■  ( 


PARRY'S  POLAR  VOYAGE. 


157 


roturn.  This  rosulution  was  communicatod  to  the  crow, 
who,  though  deeply  disappointed  at  liaviiig  achieved  so 
little,  acquiesced  in  the  necessity,  and  consoled  them- 
selves with  the  idea  of  liaving-  gone  further  north  than 
any  previous  expedition  of  which  there  was  a  well- 
authentiv.atcd  record. 

The  furthest  point  of  latitude  reached  was  on  the  23d, 
and  was,  probably,  to  82°  45'.  "  At  the  extreme  point 
of  our  journey,"  says  Parry,  "our  distance  from  tho 
Hecla  was  only  one  hundi-cd  and  seventy-two  miles  in  a 
S.  8°  W.  direction.  To  accomplish  this  distance  we 
had  traversed,  by  our  reckoning,  two  hundred  and 
ninety-two  miles,  of  which  about  one  hundred  were  per- 
formed by  water  previously  to  our  entering  the  ice. 
As  we  travelled  by  far  the  greater  pa^-t  of  our  distance 
on  the  ice  three,  and  not  unfroquently  five,  times  over, 
we  may  safely  multiply  the  length  of  the  road  by  two 
and  a  half;  so  that  our  whole  distance,  on  a  very  mod- 
erate calculation,  amounted  to  five  hundred  and  (jighty 
geographical,  or  six  hundred  and  sixty-eight  statute 
miles,  being  nearly  sufficient  to  have  reached  the  pole 
in  a  direct  line.  Up  to  this  period  we  had  been  par- 
ticularly fortunate  in  the  preservation  of  our  health." 
Their  day  of  rest  (July  21th),  before  starting  to  return, 
was  one  of  the  plcasant(.'st  they  had  experienced  upon 
tho  ice  ;  the  thermometer  oidy  from  31"  to  36"  in  tho 
shade,  and  31°  in  the  sun  ;  no  bottom  with  five  hundred 
fathoms  of  line. 

The  return  was  equally  laborious  as  the  going  out, 
and  in  some  respects  more  unpleasant,  from  the  increas- 
ing softness  of  the  ice  and  snow  —  depriving  them  of 
confidence  in  any  spot  on  which  they  placed  their  boats 
or  persons,  and  often  sirikiug  two  or  three  feet  in  an 
instant.  On  the  1st  of  August  some  recent  bear -tracks 
wore  seen,  and,  soon  after.  Bruin  himself  appeared  ;  but, 


>o^ 


Stass 


I    111 '"'' *•' 


I  ^ 


ri 


I  ■! 


^ijl 


:i 


Ml! 


158 


PARRY'S  POLAR  VOYAGE. 


though  attempts  were  made  to  draw  liim  witliin  gun- 
shot, ho  o8capod  unliarrnod.     But,  on  the  4th,  a  fat  bear 


■-?T\'^^'\\\'S', 


-'/M^''  ;.-,,■■■  y-  ■mm 


A'/ 


m 


W^^' 


POr,AU   BEAR. 


was  shot  by  Lieut.  Ross  ;  and  "  the  men  were  frying 
steaks,  during  the  whole  day,  over  a  large  fire  made  of 
the  blnbbcr."  To  some  the  consequence  of  their  indul- 
gence was  an  indigestion.  On  the  10th  another  bear 
was  killed ;  "  and  our  encampment,"  sa3^8  Parry, 
"  became  so  like  an  Esquimaux  establishment  that  we 
were  obliged  to  shift  our  place  upon  the  floe  in  the 
course  of  the  day,  for  the  sake  of  cleanliness  and  com- 
fort." 

At  length,  on  the  11th  of  August,  Parry  and  his  party 
heard  the  sound  of  the  surge  breaking  against  the  exte- 
rior margin  of  the  great  icy  field.  They  were  soon 
launched  on  the  open  sea,  and  reached  Table  Island, 
where  a  sup:)Iy  of  broad  ha<l  h(*v\\  dopositod  ;  but  Bruin. 


I 


PARRY'S  POLAR  VOYAGE. 


159 


had  discovered  it,  and  devoured  the  whole.  They  found, 
liowever,  some  uccoinmodiitions,  while  the  8tores  lel't 
at  the  Warden  Island  were  still  quite  undisturbed.  On 
the  21st  ti»e  naviy;ators  arrived  in  Ilecla  Cove,  from 
whence,  soon  afterwards,  they  sailed  for  England. 

Such  was  the  result  of  the  first  and  only  attempt  to 
penetrate  to  the  pole  over  the  frozen  surface  of  the  deep. 
All  the  energy  and  hardihood  of  British  seamen  were 
exerted  to  the  utmost,  without  making  even  an  approach 
towards  the  fultihnent  of  their  intention ;  yet  there 
seems  nothing  in  the  details  just  given  to  deter  from 
the  enterprise,  as  impossible,  or  even  to  render  it  very 
unfeasible.  The  unfavorable  issue  was  evidently  owing 
to  the  advanced  season  of  the  year,  when  the  thaw  and 
consequent  dissolution  of  the  ice  had  nuide  great  prog- 
ress, and  all  the  materials  of  the  great  northern  lloor 
were  broken  up. 


'i       =•„' 


CHAPTER  IX. 


SOUND.  —  UOOTIFIA.  —  I)rS(;uVKHY     OK    TlfK    I'lliv's     STORES. —  UANfiKK- 

OrS     NAVIGATION.  I'llKI'AllA  TIONS      Foil      Wl.VTi:iUN(i.  VISIT       rituM 

KSQUIMAUX. EXCUUSIO.V. SKCO.VI)    WIXTKU    IN    TIIK    ICE.  — TUE     MAO- 

NETIC     POLE. THinD    AM>     iulJIlTII      WINTEIt.  —  AltANDONMENT    OP    THE 

VICTORY.  — MEETING    WITH    A    WIIAI.EIl. 


iiil;  ^ 


Next  in  clironological  order  is  tlio  expedition  equipped 
at  the  cost  of  Sir  Felix  Booth,  and  conducted  by  Capliiin 
Ross,  aii(<l  liis  nei)how,  Commander  (afterwards  Sir  James) 
Ross.  They  sailed  in  May,  1829,  in  the  Victory,  a 
vessel  iitt(!d  with  a  steam-engine,  in  addition  to  her 
sails,  so  as  to  be  able  to  navigate  in  calm  weather,  or 
in  ballling  winds.  The  object  of  the  voyage  was  to 
search  ibr  the  north-w^est  passage,  as  Parry  had  done 
before,  by  some  opening  leading  out  of  llegent's  Inlet. 

On  the  22d  of  July  they  entered  a  bay  wliich  opened 
into  two  magnificent  inlets,  bordered  by  rocks  of  impos- 
ing form  ;  and  every  spot,  not  absolutely  a  precipice, 
was  covered  with  such  briglit  verdure  as  to  justify  the 
appellation  of  Greenland.  In  sailing  upwards,  the  unex- 
pected appearance  of  a  Danish  flag  surprised  the  crew, 
and  they  learned  that  they  were  now  near  a  settle- 
ment belonging  to  that  nation,  called  Ilolsteinborg. 
The  governor  had  seen  the  masts  above  the  rocks,  and, 
apprehcns've  of  their  being  those  of  a  vessel  in  distress, 
kindly  sent  an  offer  of  aid.     The  party  were  immediately 


I'i 


ROSS'S  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


161 


coiKluctcd  to  tho  village,  whuro  they  liud  a  lM»spita])lo 
roct.'ption,  with  cDtcrlaiiniKMit  sucli  us  llicy  little  ex- 
pected oil  those  dreary  shores. 

They  here  ibiind  a  disal)U'd  vessel,  and  from  it  replen- 
ished their  stores  and  spars.  The  provisions  were  raised 
to  their  full  coniph.Mueut.  Some  boots  and  g-loves  were 
obtained  from  the  natives,  and  the  governor  made  a 
useful  present  of  six  Esquimaux  dogs. 

On  the  20 th  the  discoverers  sailed  to  the  northward  ; 
and  on  the  morning  of  the  28th  the  stupendous  moun- 
tains of  Disco  Island,  long  enveloped  in  mist,  burst  on 
their  view,  only  a  few  miles  distant.  The  range  nearest 
the  shore  was  entirely  free  from  snow,  and  the  interior 
hills  were  l)ut  partially  covered.  Hare  Island  was 
almost  ecpially  clear  ;  and,  though  forty  icebergs  were 
observed,  yet,  as  the  navigators  approached  the  latitude 
of  14°,  near  to  where  the  Ilecla  and  Fury  had  been 
beset  in  182 1,  not  a  vestige  of  ice  was  perceived.  They 
might  have  fancied  themselves  sailing  on  the  summer 
seas  of  England,  or  even  of  the  Mediterranean  ;  the 
men  threw  olf  their  jackets,  and  worked  in  their  shirts, 
without  shoes  or  stockings.  They  had  several  times 
recourse  to  the  engine,  though,  from  practical  defects, 
it  never  enabled  them  to  sail  above  a  mile  and  a  half  an 
hour  ;  and  it  was  subsequently  thrown  overboard,  as  a 
useless  encumbrance. 

On  the  6th  of  August,  a  thick  fog  having  dispersed, 
the  coast  was  suddenly  d'Nplayed,  with  all  its  highlands, 
among  which  Cape  Byara  Martin  was  conspicuous,  cov- 
ered with  snow.  On  reaching  the  entrance  of  Lancaster 
Sound,  and  reverting  to  the  blame  imputed  to  him  for 
not  having  explored  it,  the  captain  observes  that,  from 
the  deceptive  appearances  presented  by  bays  and  inlets, 
similar  mistakes  had  been  made  by  Cook,  and  other 
navigators  of  the  greatest  skill.  No  opinion  diifering 
14* 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


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^.-^ 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  US80 

(716)  872-4503 


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I        !  ! 


■I     '  . 


n. 


1 


162 


ROSS'S  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


from  his  bad  been  expressed  by  any  one  of  his  officers, 
who,  if  they  entertained  any  such,  were  unquestionably 
bound  to  have  stated  it.  The  ice,  moreover,  lay  ihen 
BO  thick  that  he  could  have  penetrated  but  a  fcv/  miles 
further. 

Now,  however,  he  sailed  through  the  middle  of  the 
strait,  perceiving  scarcely  any  trace  of  ice  or  snow, 
unless  on  the  tops  of  the  lofty  mountains.  The  ther- 
mometer stood  at  40°,  while  the  sensible  heat  was  so 
much  greater  that  they  felt  it  agreeable  to  dine  without 
a  fire,  and  with  half  the  skylight  removed.  For  two 
days  they  made  only  a  slow  and  laborious  progress,  by 
the  aid  of  steam  ;  but,  on  the  9th,  a  welcome  breeze 
sprang  up  from  the  cast,  and,  all  sail  being  set,  on  the 
10th  they  passed  Cape  York,  after  which  the  land  begins 
to  turn  southward,  and,  with  the  opposite  coast  of  North 
Somerset  (Boothia),  forms  the  broad  opening  of  Prince 
Regent's  Inlet.  This  being  the  channel  by  which  Ross 
hoped  to  accomplish  his  passage,  he  immediately  steered 
across,  and  reached  the  western  shore  on  the  afternoon 
of  the  11th,  between  Cape  Seppings  and  Elwin  Bay. 

In  sailing  southward  along  this  coast,  some  heavy 
gales  were  encountered ;  and  th(»  ice  having  been  broken 
off  in  the  various  forms  of  streams,  packs,  and  bergs, 
the  full  difficulties  of  Arctic  navigation  began  to  be 
experienced.  These  were  increased  by  the  near  ap- 
proach to  the  magnetic  pole,  so  that  the  compass 
ceased  to  traverse  ;  and  the  bearings  could  be  ascer- 
tained only  by  observations  on  the  sun,  which  was  often 
obscured  by  heavy  fogs.  The  navigators  made  their 
way,  however,  and  on  the  12th  descried  the  place  of 
the  Fury's  wreck,  with  the  poles  of  the  tents  standing. 
They  hastened,  with  intense  interest,  to  examine  this 
spot.  The  hull  of  the  ship,  which  was  left  on  the 
beach,  had  disappeared,  without  even  a  vestige  remain- 


ROSS'S  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


163 


iiig.  The  moving  masses  of  ice  had  either  carried  it 
out  in  a  body,  or  broken  it  into  fragments  and  scattered 
it  as  drift-wood  over  the  surrounding  sea.  But  it  was 
an  ample  compensation  to  find  that  the  canisters  of 
preserved  provisions,  after  being  exposed  during  four 
years,  were  in  as  perfect  condition  as  if  they  had  been 
newly  prepared.  The  tightness  of  these  vessels  had 
prevented  the  bear  from  smelling  the  rich  feast  they 
contained  for  him,  and  to  which  f'therwise  he  would 
soon  have  forced  his  way.  The  wine,  spirits,  sugar, 
bread,  flour,  and  cocoa,  were,  with  little  exception, 
equally  good,  and  the  sails  were  found  in  complete  pres- 
ervation. After  taking  in  all  the  provisions  they  could 
conveniently  stow,  raising  their  stock  to  two  years  and 
three  months'  supply,  the  accumulated  pile  seemed 
scarcely  diminished.  Here,  also,  they  procured  a  store 
of  coal. 

Crossing  now  the  broad  mouth  of  Cresswell  Bay,  they 
reached,  on  the  15th  of  August,  a  cape  to  which  the 
name  of  Garry  has  been  attached,  the  furthest  point 
seen  by  Parry.  The  land  trended  in  a  south-south-west 
direction,  which,  with  few  variations,  it  continued  to 
follow.  Deprived  of  all  aid  from  the  compass,  and  often 
enveloped  in  fogs,  they  worked  their  way  slowly,  amid 
many  diflBculties  and  frequent  dangers,  being  obliged 
to  steer  merely  according  to  the  direction  which  the 
wind,  or  even  the  floating  ice,  had,  in  the  last  clear 
interval,  been  observed  to  pursue.  While  r.ountains 
of  ice  were  tossing  around  them  on  every  side,  they 
were  often  forced  to  seek  safety  by  mooring  themselves 
to  these  formidable  masses,  and  drifting  with  them, 
sometimes  forward,  sometimes  backward.  In  this  man- 
ner, on  one  occasion,  no  less  than  nineteen  miles  were 
lost  in  a  few  hours  ;  at  other  times  they  underwent  fre- 
quent and  severe  shocks,  yet  escaped  any  serious  dam- 


I 


164 


ROSS'S  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


age.  Ross  conceives  that  his  little  bark,  merely  by  its 
moderate  draught  of  water,  was  much  better  fitted  for 
such  a  navigation  than  the  larger  vessels  employed  in 
previous  expeditions,  and  that  those  of  Parry  would 
have  been  shattered  to  pieces  by  the  rocks  over  which 
the  Victory  was  carried  in  safety. 

On  several  points  of  this  coast  they  observed  Esqui- 
maux tents, —  at  one  place  twenty  in  number, —  but  none 
of  the  natives.  Many  whales  appeared  on  the  surface 
of  the  water  close  to  them,  without  showing  any  appre- 
hension of  man. 

Among  the  leading  features  of  the  coast  was  Brent- 
ford Bay,  of  considerable  extent,  with  some  fine  harbors, 
thirty  miles  beyond  Cape  Garry.  Here  the  captain 
landed,  displayed  his  colors,  and,  drinking  the  king's 
health,  took  possession,  in  his  majesty's  name,  of  the 
land,  to  which  he  gave  the  name  of  Boothia. 

Under  all  impediments,  in  the  course  of  August  and 
September,  he  worked  his  way  along  three  hundred 
miles  of  undiscovered  coast,  and  to  within  two  hundred 
and  eighty  miles  of  the  point  which  Franklin  had 
reached.  Here  the  land,  taking  a  westerly  direction, 
seemed  to  afford  the  fair  promise  of  a  passage  between 
the  country  now  surveyed  and  the  continent  of  America. 
But,  by  the  end  of  September,  snow  began  to  fall  thick  ; 
the  thermometer  sank  far  below  the  freezing-point,  while 
ice  in  large  masses  was  closing  around  them.  They 
therefore  considered  themselves  fortunate  when,  in  a 
spacious  bay  between  a  rocky  island  and  two  icebergs, 
they  found  a  station  in  Felix  Harbor,  in  which,  after 
due  arrangements,  they  could  reckon  on  passing  the 
dreary  season  in  security. 

On  the  Yth  of  October,  by  sawing  through  the  ice, 
the  vessel  was  placed  in  the  position  where  it  could  be 
most  advantageously  lodged  for  the  winter.     On  the 


ROSS'S  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


165 


8th,  there  appeared  no  longer  an  atom  of  clear  water  ; 
and,  except  some  occasional  points  of  rock,  "nothing 
but  one  dazzling  and  monotonous,  dull  and  wearisome, 
extent  of  snow  was  visible."     The  temperature,  which 
had   been   ranging  between   10°  and  22°,  rapidly  fell, 
and,  on  the  nigiit  of  the  20th,  descended  as  low  as  9° 
under  zero,  or  41°  below  the  freezing-point,  and,  before 
the  end  of  the  month,  was  at  — 16°. 
•    In  preparing  for  the  gloom  and   rigor  of  this  long 
winter,  Ross  made  some  improvements  even  upon  the 
admirable    arrangements  of  Parvy.      The    upper   deck 
having   been   covered   two  feet  and  a  half  deep  with 
snow,  it  was  trodden  down  to  the  consistence  of  solid 
ice,  and  sand  spread  over  it,  till  it  resembled  a  rolled 
gravel-walk.      It  was  then  roofed  with  canvas,  which 
was  conducted  over  the  sides  till  it  united  with  a  bank 
of  snow  that  had  been  formed  around  the  vessel,  thus 
completely  fencing  it  in  on  every  side.     The  vapor  from 
the  steam-kitchen  and  oven,  instead  of  being  allowed  to 
spread  through  the  cabins,  was  conveyed  by  apertures 
in  the  apper  deck,  over  which  were  placed  to  receive  it 
iron   tanks,  with   the   open   side   downwards,  where  it 
soon  froze,  and  the  ice  was  cleared  out  once  a  week. 
By  this  plan  the  apartments  were  preserved  perfectly 
dry,  and  it  was  not  necessary,  as  formerly,  to  keep  them 
up  to  the  temperature  of  *?0°,  in  order  to  prevent  the 
vapor   from   freezing  on  their   sides  ;  that  of  45°  was 
found   quite   sufficient   for  health  and  comfort,  and  a 
great  saving  of  fuel  was  in  consequence  effected.     Two 
small  ante-chambers  were  formed,  and  in  the  outer  one 
such  of  the  men  as  had  been  exposed  to  the  atmos- 
phere were  required  to  leave  the  clothes  on  which  snow 
had  fallen.     The  air  necessary  to  produce  combustion 
was  introduced  by  a  copper  pipe  direct  to  the  fireplace, 
where  it  was  immediately  warmed,  and,  instead  of  chill- 


1G6 


ROSS'S  SECOND  VOIAGE. 


U 


iiig,  eerved  to  heat  and  dry  the  room.  The  strength 
and  spirits  of  the  crew  were  supported  by  regular  meals 
and  constant  occupation.  Divine  service  was  duly  per- 
formed, and  religious  instruction  dispensed  at  a  school 
held  every  Sunday  evening.  On  the  other  nights  a 
school  also  waH  attended. 

The  stock  of  provisions,  on  examination,  was  found 
sufficient  for  two  years  and  ten  months  at  full  allowance, 
a  quantity  which  could  easily  be  managed  so  as  to  last 
three  years.  Fuel  was  equally  abundant.  The  only 
article  deficient  was  spirits,  of  which  th'^ie  was  only 
one  year's  full  supply  ;  but  this  want  the  commander 
by  no  means  regretted,  being  satisfied  that  their  habitual 
use  impaired  the  strength  of  the  seaman,  diminished  his 
power  of  enduring  cold,  and  rendei'ed  him  more  liable  to 
scurvy.  lie  was  gratified,  therefore,  when  the  crew 
cheerfully  consented  to  their  being  withheld,  unless  on 
special  occasions  ;  and  he  considers  this  circumstance 
as  having  remarkably  contributed  to  the  preservation 
of  their  health. 

Traces  of  Esquimaux  had  been  observed  on  difierent 
parts  of  the  coast,  but  none  had  been  hitherto  seen. 
At  length,  on  the  morning  of  the  9th  of  January,  1830, 
a  party  were  discovered.  Ross  immediately  proceeded 
to  the  spot,  upon  which  they  retreated,  but  soon  re- 
turned with  a  body  of  their  companions,  ranged  in  a 
line  of  ten  in  front  and  three  deep,  one  man  being 
detached,  who  appeared  to  be  sitting  in  a  sledge.  The 
captain,  having  sent  for  his  nephew  and  some  of  the 
crew,  desired  them  to  remain  behind,  while  he  walked 
toward  the  Esquimaux,  who  were  armed  with  spears 
and  knives.  He  hailed  them  by  the  well-known  national 
salutation,  Tima  !  tima  !  which  was  shouted  by  them  in 
return.  The  navigators  then  advanced,  and,  throwing 
away  their   guns,  called   out,  Aja,  tima!  upon  which 


ROSS'S  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


167 


;o  seen. 


Ilio  others  tossed  their  knives  and  spears  in  the  air, 
repeating  the  shout,  Aja!  and  extending  their  hands  to 
show  that  they  had  now  no  weapons.  As  they  stood 
still,  however,  tlie  discoverers  api)roached,  and  em- 
braced all  those  in  the  front  line,  stroking  their  dress, 
and  receiving  in  their  turn  this  customary  greeting. 
Their  gratification  was  testified  by  laughing,  clamor,  and 
strange  gestures.  Thus  full  confidence  was  at  once 
established  between  the  two  parties. 

Next  day  the  discoverers  visited  this  people  at  their 
own  village,  which  consisted  of  twelve  snow  huts,  con- 
structed in  the  same  manner  us  those  observed  by 
Parry.  Tliis  tribe  were  thought,  on  the  whole,  to  be 
cleanc  and  better  dressed  than  those  more  to  the  north- 
ward ;  besides,  they  kept  a  store  of  seal  and  reindeer 
buried  in  the  snow  —  a  precaution  not  before  noticed 
among  any  Esquimaux. 

While  the  British  remained  on  these  shores,  they 
held  frequent  intercourse  with  this  and  otlier  parties  of 
natives.  Some  of  the  places  about  Repulse  Bay  being 
named  and  described,  they  showed  an  intimate  acquaint- 
ance with  them,  stating  that  they  had  recently  journeyed 
from  that  quarter.  Two  of  them,  Tulluahiu  and  Ikmal- 
lik,  drew  a  sketch  of  the  line  of  coast  by  which  they  had 
travelled,  and  this  was  amended  by  a  learned  lady,  Tir- 
iksiu.  The  general  result  proved  to  be,  that  between 
the  present  station  and  Repulse  Bay  there  intervened  a 
very  extensive  gulf,  of  which  the  limits  were  Melville 
Peninsula  on  the  east,  the  American  coast  on  the  south, 
and  the  country  in  which  they  now  were,  on  the  west. 

The  grand  question,  whether  there  was  any  navigable 
opening  further  westward,  could  not  be  then  ascertained, 
though  they  had  reason  to  believe  that,  if  there  was,  it 
must  be  very  narrow.  The  strongest  interest,  however, 
was  excited  by  the  accounts  given  by  another  party  of 


t'4 


11 


'^1 


:^!l! 


4 


1  1 


168 


ROSS'S  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


a  groat  soa  lying  to  the  vv^cstward,  and  of  a  strait  which 
it  was  hoped  might  load  into  it.  On  the  5th  of  April, 
thorc'ibro,  when  tho  rigor  of  winter  had  soniewiuit 
abated,  Commander  Koss,  with  Mr.  Blanky,  tho  chief 
raate,  and  two  native  guides,  undertook  an  expedition 
to  explore  it.  Tiie  weather  being  still  very  inclement, 
they  were  frequently  obliged  to  pauso  and  seek  refuge 
from  tho  driit,  when  tho  Esquimaux  in  half  an  hour 
erected  snow  huts,  whicli  aflbrded  tolerable  shelter. 
Unluckily  the  lire  necessary  for  heat  and  light,  molting 
the  walls  of  this  frail  tenement,  enveloped  thorn  in 
moisture,  to  avoid  wliich  they  wore  obliged  to  creep  into 
their  fur  bags. 

After  a  difficult  journey  of  three  days,  they  reached  a 
bay  facing  tho  westward,  and,  on  proceeding  a  short  dis- 
tance inland  to  tho  south  and  south-east,  discovered  a 
very  extensive  lake,  called  by  the  natives  Nei-tyol-lc, 
■whence  a  broad  river  flowed  into  tho  bay.  On  their 
return  to  tho  coast,  tho  guides  pointed  out  a  lofty  capo, 
beyond  which  there  was  said  to  be  avast  sea,  the  termi- 
nation of  which  could  not  bo  descried.  They  declared, 
however,  that  a  tract  of  land,  or  isthmus,  connecting  the 
territory  on  which  they  stood  with  tho  continent  of 
America,  would  render  it  impossible  for  the  vessel  to 
roach  tho  wot'tern  soa  in  this  direction,  or  otherwise 
than  by  a  channel  considerably  north  of  her  present 
station.  •« 

The  journey  so  far  had  issued  onlj'^  in  disappointment. 
They  learned  that,  on  tho  coast  nearest  them,  facing 
the  eastward,  tliere  was  a  place  called  Shagavoke,  where 
the  water  rushed  through  a  narrow  strait  with  extraor- 
dinary rapidity.  Hence  arose  hopes  that  this  tide 
might  come  from  tho  opposi:e  sea,  and  afford  a  channel 
through  which  tho  ship  could  bo  worked.  But,  on 
examination,  this  idea  proved  fallaciouj,  and  evovy  idea 


ROSS'S  Si:COND   VOYAQK 


1G9 


trait  which 

1  of  April, 

somewhat 

i 

,  the  chief 

I 

expedition 

inclement, 

eek  ?-efuge 

If  an   hour 

' 

le    shelter. 

ht,  melting 

d   them   in 

J  creep  into 

1 

y  reached  a 

a  short  dis- 

iscovered  a 

Nei-tyel-lc, 

On   their 

i 

lofty  cape, 

3 

I,  the  termi- 

g 

y  declared, 

1 

necting  the 

1 

ntinent   of  . 

1 

3  vessel  to 

1 

•  otherwise 

1 

er  present 

' 

pointment. 

; 

lem,  facing 

i 

oke,  where 

th  extraor- 

this   tide 

I  a  channel 

.    But,    on 

; 

every  idea 

1 

of  a  passage  south  of  the  ship's  present  station  was 
renounced. 

It  was  to  the  north  that  all  ho^jcs  of  finding  the 
desired  passage  were  now  directed.  So  far,  liow 
ever,  as  they  were  personally  able  to  examine  the 
land,  its  aspect  was  unpromising,  and  the  most  intelli- 
gent natives  intin.iited  that  the  only  channel  was  in  a 
much  more  northerly  (piarter,  supposed  to  be  wo  other 
than  Barrow's  Strait,  through  which  Furry  had  already 
navigated. 

Before  prosecuting  further  discoveries  in  this  direc- 
tion, another  journey  was  resolved  upon  to  the  west- 
ward, beyond  the  istiimus,  to  trace  the  coast  of 
America  as  it  extended  along  the  newly-discovered  sea. 
They  thus  hoped  to  reach  Cai)e  Turnagain,  ami  to  con- 
nect their  discoveries  Avith  those  of  Franklin.  The 
younger  Ross  again  set  out  on  the  Itth  JSIay,  with  three 
companions,  e'ght  dogs,  and  provisions  for  twenty-one 
days  ;  and  on  the  F)th,  having  crossed  the  great  middle 
lake  of  the  isthmus,  he  reached  his  former  station  on 
the  western  sea.  The  first  view  of  it  was  celebrated  by 
three  loud  and  even  joyous  cheers,  though  tempered 
with  regret  at  the  diminished  prospect  of  ever  being  abb; 
to  navigate  it.  Having  to  spend  the  night  here,  they 
contrived  a  more  comfortable  sleeping-place,  by  ex- 
cavating a  sort  of  burro\'  in  the  snow,  roofing  it  with 
their  skin  boat,  and  placinjj,  a  block  of  snow  as  a  door. 

After  passing  Cape  Isabella,  formed  of  gray  granit<; 
five  hundred  feet  high,  the  party  travelled  along  \\w 
coast  west  and  north  for  twenty  miles.  On  the  morning 
of  the  21st  of  May  they  discovered,  behind  a  lofty  point, 
an  inlet,  which,  from  its  breadth  and  the  different  char- 
acter of  its  opposite  coasts,  afforded  the  hope  that  it 
might  open  into  the  Folar  Ocean.  They  therefore 
made  a  complete  circuit  and  a  careful  survey  of  its 
15  . 


170 


ROSS'S  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


nliorcH  ;  but  the  only  opening  found  wjih  clearly  ascer- 
taincd  to  be  the  mouth  of  a  river,  named  by  tlmm  (Jarry. 
On  ascending  a  high  hill,  they  perceivetl  several  large 
lakes  extending  to  the  north-east,  and  forming,  in  fact, 
au  almost  continuous  chain  to  Thom's  Bay,  near  the 
Victory's  station  ;  with  interruptions  enough,  however, 
to  prevent  a  ship  passing  through.  Next  day  they  pro- 
tu.'eded  north-west  along  the  coast ;  but,  resolving  to 
reach  the  opposite  land  some  miles  distant,  they  crossed 
the  frozen  surface  of  tiie  strait,  and  came  to  a  large 
island,  which  was  named  Matty.  They  pursued  their 
fatiguing  jouruey  along  its  uorthern  shore,  over  rough 
ice  ;  and,  passing  another  narrow  strait,  which  they 
called  Wellington,  found  themselves  on  the  mainland  of 
America. 

The  coast  now  stretched  due  west,  and,  the  surface 
being  level,  they  proceeded  with  comparative  ease  and 
rapidity.  The  direction  changing  to  the  north-west, 
they  soon  arrived  at  a  spacious  bay,  which  was  named 
Parry.  They  then  travelled  onwards  two  days,  but  with 
diiliculties  continually  increasing,  and  experiencing 
great  embarrassment,  as  regarded  both  their  advance  and 
return,  in  distinguishing  between  land  and  sea.  "  When 
all  is  ice,  and  all  one  dazzling  mass  of  white  —  when 
the  surface  of  the  sea  itself  is  tossed  up  and  fixed  into 
rocks,  while  the  land  is,  on  the  contrary,  very  often  Hat 
—  it  is  not  always  so  easy  a  problem  as  it  might  seem, 
on  a  superficial  view,  to  determine  a  fact  which  appears 
in  words  to  be  extremely  simple." 

After  experiencing  great  hardships  from  the  exhausted 
state  of  their  dogs,  and  the  necessity  of  abandoning  a 
great  part  of  their  provisions,  their  return  was  attended 
with  a  considerable  increase  of  suffering.  The  dogs  fell 
victims  to  successive  calamities,  till,  of  eight,  only  two 
remained  alive.     It  was  proposed  to  vary  the  scene  by 


m 

m 

m 


ROSS'S  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


171 


koopinp:  flonth  of  M.atty  Island,  nlonp  tlio  coast  of  tlio 
<?()iiliiH'iit ;  l)ut.  obsorviii^  that  it  fornuHl  an  extonsivtj 
bay  with  wiiidii)}^^  Khorcs.  to  follow  the  KimioHitics  of 
which  would  have  consiinied  too  much  time,  tliey  pushed 
forward  in  a  direct  line  over  the  frozen  Hurfaco  of  the  sea. 
On  the  8th  Juiu"  they  arrived  in  a  very  exhausted  state 
in  the  neighborhood  of  Xei-ty(d-le,  where  they  met  a 
party  of  natives,  who  received  them  hospitably,  and 
supplied  them  so  plentifully  with  fish,  that  they  wero 
able  to  take  a  day's  rest,  and  proceed  at  leisure  to  the 
vessel,  which  they  reached  on  tiie  13th. 

Meantime,  Captain  Ross  himself  had  made  a  journey, 
though  of  more  limited  extent,  with  the  intention  of  sur- 
veying the  isthmus  of  IJoothia,  when  ho  made  the  partial 
discovery  of  another  large  lake,  to  which  he  gave  the 
name  of  Lady  Melville. 

The  nephew,  upon  his  return,  found  that  he  had 
arrived  just  in  time.  The  early  spring,  the  only  season 
when  travelling  is  practicable  in  this  region,  was  over. 
The  thaw  had  •  set  in  with  extraordinary  rapidity  ;  the 
country  was  under  water  ;  the  streams  impassable,  and 
the  surface  of  the  ocean  could  not  have  been  traversed 
without  the  greatest  danger.  Except  a  short  excursion 
to  procure  fish,  all  their  attention  and  efforts  were 
directed  to  the  extrication  of  the  vessel  with  a  view  to 
her  voyage  northward,  in  which  direction  alone  they 
could  now  hope  to  discover  a  passage  to  the  western 
sea.  But  month  after  month  rolled  on,  the  height  of 
summer  passed,  and  the  sea  remained  still  ^ound  in 
icy  chains.  In  August  its  aspect  began  to  present 
hopes,  but  these  were  followed  by  successive  disap- 
pointments. Its  close  arrived,  and  they  had  the  morti- 
fication to  reflect  that  they  had  remained  eleven  months 
—  a  period  in  which  they  might  have  circumnavigated 
the  globe  —  fixed  to  that  dreary  spot. 


172 


ROSS'S  SI'X'OND  VOVAGK. 


At  last,  un  tlio  17<li  of  Scptouilior,  with  u  transport 
^•r^'y,  llif'y  found  tlKMiisclvcs  free,  ami  the  ship,  so  lonj^ 
iiniiiovabk',  ag'aiii  buoyant  on  the  waves.  They  atl- 
vancL'd  ahont  three;  miles,  wiion,  oncounterin;;;  a  ri(l<.;o 
of  ice,  they  inach;  fast  to  oiu;  of  its  (extremities,  in  a  tol- 
erably secure  position  between  two  ber}:,-s.  On  th(5  'I'M 
they  were  completely  frozen  in,  and  by  the  30th  the  sea 
C'xliil)it(Ml  one  unbroken  surface.  The  greater  part  of 
October  was  employed  in  laboriously  sawing  their  way 
through  the  ice,  the  thi(,'kness  of  which  was  always 
increasing;  and  they  were  at  length  obliged  to  desist, 
after  reaching  a  spot  not  exactly  such  as  could  bo 
wished,  but  which,  amid  an  ocean  immovable  on  every 
Bide,  atlbrded  tolerable  protection. 

Another  dreary  winter  having  now  sot  in,  it  became 
'necessary  to  look  narrowly  into  the  stock  of  provisions. 
A  certain  reduction  in  the  daily  allowance  was  found 
requisite,  leaving,  at  the  same  time,  enough  to  maintain 
the  crew  in  health  and  vigor,  which  they  continued  to 
preserve  uninterrui»tedly  during  the  season.  They  felt, 
however,  the  utter  monotony  of  their  situation  pressing 
upon  them  with  increasing  severity  ;  they  began  aluHJst 
to  envy  the  Esquimaux,  to  whom  eating  and  sleeping 
constituted  the  whole  of  existence.  In  this  manner 
passed  1830  ;  nor  was  it  till  April  of  the  following  year 
that  excursions  of  any  extent  could  be  undertaken  over 
the  frozen  surface  of  land  and  sea. 

The  first  adventure  of  this  kind  was  conducted  by 
Commander  Ross.  One  interesting  circumstance  in  his 
excursion  was  the  discovery  of  the  north  magnetic 
pole ;  the  situation  of  whi(;h  on  the  land  of  Boothia  is 
marked  on  the  circular  map  attached  to  this  volume. 
"The  place  of  the  observatory,"  he  remarks,  was  as 
near  to  the  magnetic  pole  as  the  limited  means  which  T 
possessed  enabled  me  to  determine.     The  amount  of  the 


HOSS'.S  SKCOND  VOYAGE. 


173 


a  transport 
lii|»,  so  loii^ 
They  ad- 
rill^-  a  ridfjfo 
ics,  in  a  tol- 

On  tlio  2:M 
iOiU  tlic  st'a 
atcr  part  of 
^  their  way 
was  always 
id  to  desist, 
as  could  bo 
}lc  on  every 

I,  it  becamo 

1"  provisions. 

i  was  found 

to  maintain 

ontinued  to 

They  felt, 

ion  pressing 

logan  abnost 

nd  sleeping" 

lis   manner 

owing  year 

jrtaken  over 


it*.. 


(lip,  as  indi(;ated  by  my  dipping-needle,  was  80°  .^»1)', 
being  thus  within  one  minute  of  tin;  vertical  ;  wiiih  tho 
proximity,  at  least,  of  this  pole,  if  not  its  actual  existence 
where  we  stood,  was  further  confirmed  by  the  action, 
or,  rather,  l)y  the  total  inaction,  of  the  several  horizon- 
tal needles  then  in  my  possession."  Tiiis  was  very 
nearly  the  position  assigned  to  it  by  scientific  men 
several  years  earlier,  and  r.rrived  at  by  protracting  tho 
direction  lines  of  compass-net'dles  in  varioiis  circumja- 
C(,'nt  latitudes,  till  they  met  in  a  central  point.  Parry's 
observations  placed  it  eleven  minutes  distant  only  from 
the  site  determined  bv  Koss. 

"  As  soon,"  says  the  latter,  "as  1  had  satisfied  my 
own  mind  on  the  snl)ject,  I  made  known  to  the  party 
this  gratifying  result  of  all  our  joint  lai)ors  ;  and  it  was 
then  that,  amidst  mutual  congratulations,  we  lixed  the 
]>ritish  ilag  on  the  spot,  and  took  possession  of  tho 
North  Magnetic  Pole  and  its  adjoining-  territory  in  tho 
name  of  (Jreat  ihitain  and  King  William  IV.  We  had 
abundance  of  materials  for  building  in  the  fragments  of 
limestone  that  covered  tho  beach,  and  wo  therefore 
erected  a  cairn  of  some  magnitude,  under  which  wo 
buried  a  canister  containing  a  record  of  the  interesting 
fact,  only  regretting  that  we  had  not  the  means  of  con- 
Btructing  a  pyramid  of  more  importance,  and  of  strength 
sufficient  to  withstand  the  assaults  of  time  and  of  tho 
Esquimaux.  Had  it  been  a  pyramid  as  large  as  that  of 
Cheops,  I  am  not  (piitc  sure  that  it  would  have  done 
more  than  satisfy  our  ambition,  under  the  feelings  of 
that  exciting  day.  The  latitude  of  this  spot  is  tO°  5'  It", 
and  its  longitude  96°  40'  45"  west." 

Even  if  the  pole  were  stationary,  this  determination 

;  could  only  be  regarded  as  approximate  ;  but  when  wo 

know  that  the  centre  of  magnetic  intensity  is  a  movable 

point,  we  shall  readily  understand  that  the  cairn  erected 

15* 


r 


174 


ROSS'S  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


^   f 


with  so  much  enthusiasm  can  now  only  show  where  it 
u)zs.  According  to  Ilanstcen,  llin  pole  moves  11'  4" 
every  year,  and  revolvos  within  the  frigid  zone  in  1890 
years,  so  that  it  will  not  reach  the  same  spot  in  Boothia 
until  the  year  3122  1  The  precise  determination  of  this 
point,  however,  is  said  to  be  comparatively  unimportant, 
because  its  position  can  always  be  ascertained  by  ob- 
servations of  the  compass  and  dipping-needles. 

As  soon  as  Commander  Ross  and  his  party  returned, 
it  was  thought  time,  amid  alternate  hopes  and  fears,  to 
watch  the  progress  of  the  icc,  and  escape,  if  possible, 
from  the  prison  of  a  third  dreary  winter.  The  season 
was  not,  on  the  whole,  more  favorable  than  that  of 
1830  ;  yet,  on  the  28th  August,  a  somewhat  earlier 
period,  they  contrived  to  warp  out  into  the  open  sea, 
and  on  the  morning  of  the  29th  were  in  full  sail.  But 
they  were  baffled  by  changes  of  wind  and  heavy  gales. 
On  the  14th  of  September  they  could  again  take  exer- 
cise by  skating  on  the  newly-formed  ice.  On  the  2*7 th 
they  found  themselves  completely  fixed  for  a  third  win- 
ter. Their  last  year's  navigation  had  been  three  miles 
—  this  season  it  was  extended  to  four  I 

The  spirits  of  the  adventure^  s  now  began  to  droop  in 
earnest.  Their  only  means  of  escape  seemed  to  be  to 
proceed  in  the  boats,  or  draw  them  over  the  ice  to  the 
wreck  of  the  Fury,  when,  after  supplying  themselves 
with  a  fresh  stock  of  provisions  out  of  her  stores,  they 
might  reach  Davis's  Straits,  and  be  taken  up  by  a  whale- 
ship.  In  November  the  scurvy  began  to  appear.  The 
extraordinary  exemption  hitherto  enjoyed  from  this 
dreadful  malady,  in  the  absence  of  the  grand  specific  of 
vegetable  food,  Ross  is  inclined  to  ascribe  to  the  abun- 
dance with  which  the  men  were  supplied  with  water, 
notwithstanding  the  quantity  of  fuel  requisite  to  melt 
the  snow  ;  to  their  never  having  been  too  long  at  once 


■%^i 


ROSS'S  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


176 


exposed  to  cold,  and  to  the  caro  that  was  taken  not  to 
allow  them  i  remain  in  their  wot  clothes. 
V  It  was  now  determined  to  abandon  the  Victory,  and 
move  away  to  Fury  Beach,  as  early  in  the  spring  as 
travelling  should  be  practicable.  The  beach  was  one 
hundred  and  eighty  miles  distant  in  a  direct  line,  and 
three  hundred  by  the  necessary  windings.  They  set 
out  on  the  23d  of  April,  1832,  on  the  first  part  of  their 
expedition.  The  loads  being  too  heavy  to  be  carried 
at  once,  made  it  necessary  to  go  back  and  forward 
twice,  and  even  oftener,  the  same  day.  They  had  to 
encounter  dreadful  tempests  of  snow  and  drift,  and  to 
make  circuits,  in  order  to  avoid  impassable  barriers. 
The  general  result  was,  that  by  the  21st  May  they  had 
travelled  three  hundred  and  twenty-nine  miles  to  gain 
thirty  in  a  direct  line,  having  in  this  labor  expended  a 
month.  wi 

After  this  preliminary  movement,  they  returned  to  the 
ship,  of  which  they  were  soon  to  take  a  final  leave. 
On  the  29th  of  May  they  hoisted  the  colors,  nailed  them 
to  the  mast,  and  drank  a  parting  glass  to  the  Victory, 
which  they  considered  worthy  of  a  better  fate.  In  a 
few  days  they  reached  their  former  deposit ;  and  the 
men,  extremely  exhausted,  were  anxious  to  leave  the 
boats  and  spare  provisions,  and  push  on  to  Fury  Beach. 
The  captain,  however,  considered  it  Indispensable  to 
carry  these  to  the  other  side  of  Elizabeth  Harbor,  as 
the  nearest  spot  to  which  there  was  full  security  of 
being  able  to  return.  The  9th  of  June  arrived  before 
everything  was  brought  forward  to  that  point.  It  was 
soon  after  arranged  that  his  nephew  and  two  others 
should  set  forward  as  a  light  party,  with  a  fortnight's 
provisions,  to  ascertain  the  state  of  the  supplies,  and 
then  return  with  their  report  to  the  main  body,  who 


176 


ROSS'S  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


I       ! 


were  to  proceed  by  slower  marches,  but  more  heavily 
loaded.  '  ■'  *'^'* 

On  this  laborious  journey  Ross  had  an  opportunity 
of  examining  the  coast,  and  ascertaining  that  the  large 
inlet  in  Brentford  Bay  was  formed  merely  by  a  river, 
and  could  afford  no  passage  to  the  western  sea.  On 
the  25th  of  June  he  met  the  advanced  paily,  who 
reported  that  they  had  found  three  of  the  boats  washed 
away,  but  enough  still  left  for  their  purpose,  and  all  the 
provisions  in  good  condition.  On  the  1st  of  July  the 
whole  crew  reached  their  destination.  They  imme- 
diately enjoyed  a  hearty  meal,  and  soon  reared  a  canvas 
mansion,  which  they  named  Soni  rsct  House. 

The  month  of  July  was  spent  in  fitting  out  the  boats, 
which  were  ready  by  the  1st  of  August,  when  there 
appeared  a  considerable  extent  of  open  sea,  cheering 
them  with  the  hope  of  being  able  to  penetrate  through 
Barrow's  Strait  into  Baffin's  Bay.  The  voyage,  how- 
ever, proved  very  difficult ;  masses  of  ice,  still  tossing 
amid  the  waves,  placed  them  sometimes  in  dangerous 
positions  ;  and,  when  they  sought  slielter  on  the  beach, 
it  was  mostly  bordered  by  lofty,  precipitous  cliffs,  from 
which,  at  this  season  of  thaw,  fragments  were  often 
detached,  one  of  which  might  have  crushed  them  to 
pieces.  It  was  the  29th  of  August  before  they  passed 
Cape  Seppings,  and  arrived  at  the  junction  between 
Prince  Regent's  Inlet  and  Barrow's  Strait.  After  sev- 
eral attempts  to  run  along  the  latter,  rendered  fruitless 
by  the  ice,  tliey  were  obliged  to  haul  the  boats  on  shore 
and  pitch  their  tents.  There  was  still  time  to  have 
accom})lished  their  object ;  but  repeated  surveys  from 
the  iieighboring  mountains  convinced  them  that  Bar- 
row's Strait  was  now,  and  had  been  during  the  whole 
summer,  an  impenetrable  mass. 

By  the  24th  of  September  all  were  agreed  that  no 


ROSS'S  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


177 


I  that  no 


choice  was  left  but  to  return  to  Fury  Beach,  and  there 
spend  their  fourth  Arctic  winter.  Proceeding-,  there- 
fore, in  the  boats,  on  the  30th  of  September  tliey 
reach(Ml  Batty  Bay,  more  than  half  the  distance  ;  but 
tlie  ice  rendering  it  impossible  to  sail  further,  they 
liauled  them  on  sliore,  and  left  them  above  higli-water 
marlc.  Tlien,  currying  the  provisions  on  sledges,  and 
making  a  somewhat  dillicult  journey,  they  arrived,  on 
the  Tth  of  October,  at  what  tliey  now  accounted  their 
home. 

The  party  suffered,  at  first,  a  good  deal  from  cold, 
against  wliich  their  canvas  covering  afforded  very  im- 
perfect slielter.  They  contrived,  however,  to  envelop 
it  in  a  wall  of  snow,  and  set  up  an  additional  stove, 
which  was  so  effectual  that  the  heat  of  51°  could  be 
maintained  within.  It  was  necessary  to  make  a  reduc- 
tion in  the  allowance  of  preserved  meats  ;  bread  was 
somewhat  deficient ;  and  the  stock  of  wine  and  spirits 
was  entirely  exhausted.  However,  as  they  had  caught 
a  few  foxes,  which  were  considered  a  delicacy,  and 
there  was  plenty  of  flour,  sugar,  soups,  and  vegetables, 
a  diet  could  be  easily  arranged  sufficient  to  maintain 
the  party  in  health  and  vigor. 

The  winter,  as  it  advanced,  proved  one  of  great  sever- 
ity ;  and,  when  the  cold  reached  its  utmost  rigor,  their 
slight  walls  could  no  longer  keep  the  mansion  in  a  com- 
fortable heat.  The  tempestuous  weather  made  it  impos- 
sible to  take  exercise  in  the  open  air ;  and  at  length 
their  patience  appears  to  have  been  wearied  out  by  this 
long  and  dreary  imprisonment  within  the  Arctic  wastes. 
On  the  IGth  of  February,  1833,  Thomas,  the  carpenter, 
died  of  scurvy  —  an  event  deeply  regretted  in  itself,  and 
regarded  as  a  warning  of  what  was  too  likely  to  befall 
the  rest.  Several  of  the  seamen,  in  fact,  became  afll'cted 
with  this  cruel  disease,  of  which  Ross  himself  felt  the 


i 


I 


178 


ROSS'S  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


sure  approach,  by  the  return  of  pain  in  liia  old  wounds. 
Their  situation  was  becoming  truly  awful ;  sine*'  if  thoy 
were  not  liberated  in  the  ensuing  summer,  little  pros- 
pect appeared  of  tlieir  surviving  another  year. 

In  April  and  May,  as  soon  as  it  was  possible  to 
travel,  while  yet  the  ice  remained  firm,  it  was  necessary 
to  carry  forward  an  ample  stock  of  provisions  to  the 
position  of  the  boats,  and  there  await  the  opportunities 
of  release.  Though  the  distance  was  only  thirty-two 
miles,  their  reduced  numbers,  and  the  weight  of  the 
loads,  obliged  them  to  go  over  the  same  ground  eight 
times,  raising  the  space  actually  traversed  to  two  hun- 
dred and  fifty-six  miles  ;  so  that  it  afforded  laborious 
employni  nt  for  a  whole  month.  They  then  returned 
to  Somerset  House,  where  they  remained  till  the  8th  of 
July,  on  which  day  the  whole  party  quitted,  witliout 
regret,  this  dreary  home,  and,  though  much  encumbered 
by  the  transport  of  the  sick,  arrived,  on  the  12th,  at 
their  boat-station  in  Batty  Bay. 

The  aspect  of  the  sea  w^as  now  watched  with  intense 
anxiety,  not  unmingled  with  dread ;  yet  the  very  habit 
of  observing  and  of  speculating  on  their  prospects  — 
some  daily  mounting  the  neighboring  hill,  and  others 
reviewing  their  report  —  kept  their  spirits  in  a  state  of 
salutary  activity.  The  pursuit  of  feathered  game,  which 
always  afforded  the  hope,  and  sometimes  the  reality,  of 
a  good  supper,  also  enlivened  their  time.  A  month 
.was  passed  in  vain  expectation ;  when,  at  length,  on 
the  evening  of  the  14th  of  August,  a  lane  of  water  ap- 
peared, leading  to  the  northward.  Next  morning  the 
seamen  were  in  movement  at  an  early  hour  ;  and,  hav- 
ing cleared  the  shore  of  the  ice  that  obstructed  it,  they 
embarked  the  provisions  and  stores,  and  by  eight  o'clock 
were  under  way,  with  a  favorable  wind.  -* 

.   At  midnight  they  passed  Elwin's  Bay,  and  on  the 


i: 


ROSS'S  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


179 


16th  had  come  to  the  furthest  point  reached  in  the  pre- 
ceding year,  a  spot  whicli  excited  some  painful  recollec- 
tions, novvever,  though  all  passage  to  the  east  was 
closed,  there  was  still  an  open  lane  by  which  they  coiild 
proceed  northwards.  In  the  evening  of  that  day  they 
were  at  the  north-eastern  point  of  America,  and  beheUl 
the  sea  in  that  direction  quite  navigable,  though  encum- 
bered with  ice.  At  three  in  the  morning  of  the  Ittli 
they  were  in  motion,  making  their  way  through  the 
loose  pieces,  till,  favored  by  a  southern  breeze,  they 
turned  the  point  of  the  solid  mass  which  obstructed  the 
iiilot,  and  saw  the  wide  expanse  of  Barrow's  Strait  open 
before  them.  Wafted  on  as  if  by  magic,  they  reached 
the  opposite  shore,  which  the}'  sailed  along  to  within 
twelve  miles  of  Cape  York,  having  made  in  this  day 
seventy-two  miles.  In  the  two  following  they  passed 
Admiralty  Inlet,  and  came  within  six  or  seven  miles  of 
that  called  Navy  Board  ;  after  which  they  were  detained 
four  days  by  contrary  winds,  and  obliged  to  reduce 
their  allowance  of  provisions.  On  the  25th,  however, 
they  could  again  use  their  oars,  and  reached  the  east- 
ern side  of  Navy  Board  Inlet,  where  they  found  a  good 
harbor  for  the  night. 

•  At  four  in  the  morning  of  the  26th  they  were  roused 
from  sleep  by  the  look-out  man  announcing  "  a  sail," 
which,  viewed  through  a  glass,  proved  evidently  to  be 
a  ship.  All  were  presently  in  motion,  and  their  hopes 
and  fears  were  variously  expressed.  But  they  were 
detained  by  calms  and  light  shifting  airs  ;  an^^,  a  breeze 
springing  up,  the  vessel  made  sail  with  a  rapidity  which 
left  them  hopelessly  behind.  About  ten,  however,  they 
descried  another,  which  seemed  to  be  lying  to  ;  but  she, 
also,  soon  bore  up  under  all  sail,  and  appeared  to  be 
fast  leaving  them.  Happily,  a  calm  succeaded ;  and, 
by  hard  rowing,  they  approached  so  near  that  their  sigr 


180 


ROSS'S  SECONL  VOYAGE. 


;;,' 


nals  were  perceived,  when  she  was  seen  to  heave  to 
and  lower  a  boat,  which  made  directly  towards  them. 

On  its  arrival,  the  mate  in  command  asked  if  they 
were  in  distress  and  had  lost  their  vessel,  proflering  his 
aid,  stating,  in  answer  to  their  inquiries,  thot  he  be- 
longed to  the  Isabella,  of  Hull,  once  commanded  by 
Captain  Ross,  now  by  Captain  Humphreys.  On  being 
told  that  the  former  person  stood  before  him,  his  brain 
was  so  puzzled  that  he  declared  the  captain  must  be 
under  a  mistake,  as  he  had  certainly  been  dead  two 
years.  When  satisfied,  however,  of  the  contrary,  and 
that  he  was  in  the  presence  of  the  long-absent  naviga- 
tor, he  offered  his  hearty  congratulations. 

Such  was  the  effect  of  previous  hardship,  that  few  of 
Ross's  men  could  sleep  on  a  bed  ;  and  some  time  was 
necessary  to  enable  them  to  enjoy  this  and  other  accom- 
modations of  ordinary  life. 

On  the  30th  of  September,  1833,  the  Isabella  left 
Davis's  Straits,  and  on  the  11th  of  October  reached 
Stromness,  in  Orkney.  On  Ross's  landing  at  Hull,  on 
the  18th,  such  crowds  were  attra'^ted  that  he  could  with 
difJiculty  reach  the  inn.  He  proceeded  next  day  to 
London,  and,  having  reported  himself  to  the  Admiralty, 
was  presented,  on  the  morrow,  to  his  majesty  at 
Windsor. 


TIIK    PTARMIGAN. 


lieavt)  to 
thorn, 
a  if  they 
ering  his 
t  ho  be- 
nded by 
3n  being 
his  brain 
must  be 
ioad  two 
rary,  and 
t  naviga- 

at  few  of 
time  was 
Dr  accom- 

,bella  left 
'  reached 

Hull,  on 
3iild  with 
day  to 

miralty, 
ijosty   at 


n. 


4 


f.  •>    '^%- 


4. 


A  80 


i:-KV^'C.  sy.C^hD  VOVAGE. 


•liil;    wi;.     »>..»•;  «-ivi»ti,    vIk.m  isjie  \<ru>*  at'cii  to  Jicave  to 
nntl  !  ••.  V    *  I'oal    v-'fi^.-li  mu'lt;  din.'f;U'    )( ",v:u' ■.!)-•  them. 

'..*       •     uiru?:.    ;;,,r  luitt.o   iii   <-<>nii!t  .'fi  "-kod  it'  tliey 

•  •       ..  tllS'l•os•^^  an-i  I'  .,i  I~,s;-.  their  vo.N'it  i.  ».»ri .;l«;i in^  hips 

3  >     i.i'.iiijr.  ;ii    .'lu.svver  to    Ihoir   tiujinn'.;,   thuf    )i"   lie- 

*     Ik'.';   '■'  \\u'  UuLh.'Uu,  'ij'  llul!,   ..,iio»'  ..oniniaii'l"'-!    bv 

t  <;••... i?i   Koss,  ".itw  '  y  Oapluin  llurnphn'VM.     ()u  boin[^ 

"H  n.ir  tiu    lifvi  M?r  porson  stooil  lujfurc  hiri:,  his  biaiu 

f /•  ;•«•>  piu-.,:i'-d  thai    ho  dec'  u't'tl   th»    'Jtptfwi.   must  bu 

<!  .  *•:     n   n.i>t  ik<;,   as  hc  hud  (.'•■.vuJuly   }^^^(:v  fU^n-A  twu 

.  s       Wiicn   Kutisfied,  lit»"«;-V'      »  •  ?Ni>  ''iM.'trdry,  aud 

i.h..    ..    was  in  tli<;  prfsoiicf  tf  r-u       ^S?  -!■  «^':rit  Liuviga- 

{(>1     ho  "(^M"0'!    luv  1       r.ry  «NHj;'-r.;tli!.Ui>'11S. 

.""■'luh  wutf  th'.'  Inflect  ot  prcviuUH  liiirdshij>,  tha*^  few  of 
It;>sf}",s  nura  '.('uid  sleop  tm  a  Ix-d  ;  and  some  tiui*'  was 
ii(-c<  ;>s}iry  to  oiiablc  ititni  to  enjoy  this  and  other  accoia- 
luddalions  ol"  oidiiKii-y  liic. 

i)n   i\'.t:   ^.itli   <./"  >»?|.tomkM'.    1X3:'.   the  iRabolk  loft 

"^ii;" ^-•>T'.^.•.^g,    bi    (hkl:'  \.      'br  ftos.*,  »,     nob    ^>  ftt  Ilidl.  oil 
f'''   :••-•.  .•       -   -   -     .     ■   i-  ...    :,«:co.^M  ^^  ith 

-''''■   >->;  ,v.       .        .  . >    ,.,.x.t  day   1o 

■r                   .    >:•            .    .  :   -t  "  ••<'   \  ♦njiralty, 

tc..a»     !  }'♦'.<•,!.».  f,,  uii     ti-.c  !.iuir..v\r,    to    jjus    iiiajesty    at 
'VV!:)d.-jin. 


''  nu-;< 


.i;  ,'f  > 


I: 


5§(f^-^^s^g^.  .ti.;'  _ 


iV', 


:M^0^.I' 


VIIK    i'lVh  111- 


tlUMIl, 

!  if  tlH'V 

|f      ll'J     ilC 

lidod  bv 
^)ii  bcinf^ 
}iis  biaiji 
mufit  be 
Ij^jVii  two 
rary,  and 

at  few  of 
time  was 
;r  accoiii- 

,bo!I.i  left 

J-;  .■•lied 

Hull,  on 

.d.I  >vith 

day   to 

'^1!  rally, 

ijesty    ;=t 


V3 


^ 


CHAPTER  X. 


back's  LAND  EXPKDITIO.V. — AKIUVAL  AT  FORT  WILLIAM.  —  ANECDOTE  OP 
A  CANOK  PAUTY.  —  FIIANKLIN.  —  SC'ENEllY.  — ASCENT  OV  UIVEK8.  — 
AYLMEll    LAKE. —  WINTER     gUARTEKS.  —  STARVING    INDIANS.  —  INTENSE 

COLD.  NEWS    OK    ROSs's  SAI'ETY.  EXl'ERT  CAN(lE-MAN.  —  ESCjUIMAUX 

FRIENDS.  TUE  TIILEW-EE-CIIOII.   —  TUE  POLAR    SEA. RETURN  TO  ENG- 
LAND  back's  VOYAGE  IN  TUE  TERROR.  — REMARKABLE  PERILS  AMONG 

TUE  ICE.  — HOMEWARD  BOUND.  —  DEASE  AND  SIMPSON's  DISCOVERIES. 


Ross's  protracted  stay  of  four  years  in  the  inhospita- 
ble north  induced  the  governme  to  send  out  an  expe- 
dition to  look  for  the  absent  >arty.  Back,  who  was 
then  in  Italy,  hurried  home  to  volunteer  his  services  ;  his 
offer  was  accepted  ;  and  with  Dr.  King,  surgeon  and 
naturalist,  he  loft  England  in  February,  1833.  At  Mon- 
treal he  engaged  three  artillery-men  and  some  voya- 
geurs,  and  embarked  on  the  St.  Lawrence  in  two  canoes. 
At  the  Sault  de  Ste  Mary,  on  the  11th  of  May,  they  pur- 
chased a  third  canoe,  and  commenced  coasting  along 
the  northern  shores  of  Lake  Superior.  On  the  20th 
they  arrived  at  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  establish- 
ment. Fort  William. 

Passing  the  height  of  land  which  separates  the  waters 
which  flow  into  Lake  Superior  from  those  which  enter 
Hudson's  Bay,  the  three  canoes  proceeded  rapidly  on 
their  ever-changing  and  romantic  route,  at  times  dash- 
ing down  rapids,  then  crossing  small  lakes,  or  making 
slow  progress  along  small  and  shallow  rivers,  so  that 
portages  were  often  necessary. 

16 


i 


.     ! 


M 


iin 


182 


BACK'S  LAND  EXl'EDITION. 


It  is  rolatcd  by  Back,  tliat,  not  many  yca-i  ap^o,  a 
canoe  was  pursuing  its  way  quic^tly  clown  or)e  of  the 
Hlreams  tlirough  wliicli  the  Arctic  cxplorinj^  party  was 
now  passing'.  It  was  approaciiing"  one  ot"  the  many  port- 
a;^os  with  whicii  these  stieanis  abound,  and  the  bowman 
and  steersman  were  standing  erect  at  stem  and  stern, 
casting  quick  glances  ahead  and  on  either  sidt!  as  they 
neared  the  waterfall  which  obstructed  tlieir  progress. 
The  approach  to  the  landing-place  was  somewhat  dilli- 
cnlt,  owing  to  a  point  of  rocks  which  projected  into  the 
stream,  in  the  direction  of  the  fall,  and  round  which 
point  it  was  necessary  to  steer  with  some  dexterity,  in 
order  to  avoid  being  drawn  into  the  strong  current. 
The  fearless  guides,  however,  had  often  passed  the 
place  in  former  years  in  safety,  and,  accordingly,  dashed 
at  the  point  with  reckless  iudillerence,  their  paddles 
flinging  a  circle  of  spray  over  their  heads,  as  they 
changed  them  from  side  to  side,  with  graceful  but  vigor- 
ous rapidity.  The  swift  stream  carried  them  quickly 
round  the  point  of  danger,  and  they  had  almost  reached 
the  quiet  eddy  near  the  landing-place,  when  the  stem 
of  the  canoe  was  caught  by  the  stream,  which  in  an 
instant  whirled  them  out  from  the  shore,  and  carried 
them  downwards  with  fearful  rapidity.  Another  mo- 
ment, and  the  gushing  waters  dragged  them,  despite 
their  most  frantic  efforts,  to  the  verge  of  the  waterfall, 
which  thundered  and  foamed  among  frightful  cliasnis 
and  rocks  many  feet  below.  The  stem  of  the  canoe 
overhung  the  abyss,  and  now  the  voyayt'iirs  plied  their 
paddles  with  the  desperation  of  men  who  felt  that  their 
lives  depended  on  the  exertions  of  that  terrible  minute. 
For  a  second  or  two  the  canoe  remained  stationary,  and 
seemed  to  tremble  on  the  brink  of  destruction ;  and  then, 
inch  by  inch,  it  began  slowly  to  ascend  the  stream. 
The  danger  was  past !     A  few  more  nervous  strokes, 


tits:,  ( 


:* 


'&ly 


^•1 


■■■.f 


'^^^W^': 


hi 


t*'  I 


rfcRJLOtS  JSSCArK  OF   VOV.\«ELK>^. 


I'.  t<a, 


182 


ft\('K';^   ?.\>'f'   FXPKDmoN. 


It  W  'r-iU'i   iy  J'>;i(  k,  that,  not  ftJfaoy  yearrf  a«-o,  a 

c.'Ui'i'    '  t'>-  pur.siiin^^'-  itn   \\.\y  (luictiy  d'^v-n  ,  ne  oi"  the 

st!-.-iur.  'u:-:**.!-   v<-i.,,»;  'h<-:  Arctic  r  Nfr-'.-'if, ;    L>iu'y  was 
now  |iL.  I  ..'uH  tipprJjiK^biui^'     ."  '.j(  rh,    '.isany  j».,,i 

/  '?;  .jtiiiu.M  vv<'n?  siaiidiug- cn-Jl  ut  Htoiit  and  shin, 
•:  .  )^'  v:j!a<k  ^laii^ns  ahoud  and  on  father  sid--  .;■;  tin  y 
.--li'i  li.f  waU'ifall  .vhich  obstrncted  ilioii-  mioi^toss. 
i Isv  »»'t'''>fi*^dt  t'»  ihc  I.viidiiig-]:l.iro  vv.ii^  >?i)n..Mvlir;.  diili- 
. .  '•'*,  owing  lv:t  a  poini  of  rockn  Mh.^  '  i»jt>,j<  '(tMl  into  ^lio 
f\  isn.  m  lljf-  dii«.i-rioii  ol'  the  ^*U  d^j^*  *•<■•?''  'v-ii.-h 
^hm\l  U  was  ncctSRfarv  tu  «tonr  -h  Miti!  ':>>;3U'  *=•  Aterity,  in 
-Tder  ty  ikvoid  bciug"  dr«vo  .i!l.»  the  strong  cuireiit. 
Til'-'  ftiurles*  guides,  ln.wrM'r  h:td  ofttrii  passed  ilio 
jilui'O  in  ii-naoi". }»,'aiiji  in  M.i'cty,  ■.\.u>\,  acoord:iigly,  das:i"d 
:i!  the  point  svitlr  ro<;kI-...-s  iudi,neii'!!.'e,  their  paddh  s 
Hi'ig-iiig  a  circle  of  8pray  over  their  heails,  as  tiiey 
chanircd  Iherti  IVom  side  iv  nidc,  with  graceful  but  \i.>\!r- 
v>o^  r'ipiijty.  'i'ue  ;•  f^  i:*'f  .-ficain  earrici  cheru  nnivjdy 
rv:;.^.,^;  thv  {loi'il  i  f  dariu'-i,  af:d  they  li-i«^  .ibi.t'^s*t  n,'a«,hed 

f^v    ':mei    *":4v     ;fa.     t^.     l*;,;UU>  ;  *IV«:^i     ^V^rl!    th*-    St(;m 


ir.* 


'n>  ^*- 


•"!•.•  «n 


;"i>.  iw^i,  w;'?M  fj   in  a  a 


;,S   1„ 


J'y. 


:  *•  .rt-    :*:«* 


Mtrne 


''V^i 


W  it. 


''Hit 


i'n'i   rapidit; 


iioUier  roi 


did   ilj>^  .(iusl.'iti):^  uat''iv  drajr^ed    thtuii,  despite 

'he  vor^e  of  tlie  vvaterliiU, 


th'ir  most    !Vh'  (K 
which    l!iuud<: 


i.<» 


i  eu 


and    /oiiiiiivl    aiuoii'r  frijiliiru]  uha.si 


ns 


and  rocks  inuiiv  feet  1 


X'ltjiV. 


Ti 


le  st'.-'iH  V 


ft! 


le  {.'aij<ie 


overhung  tiic  al.yHS,  and  now  ilie  voi/uiji  nrs  plied  thclc 
^paddloB  with  the  desperati  )n  of  men  wlio  felt  that  tijoii 
lives  depended  on  the  excrlionB  of  th.it  t.-rrible  nxinnte. 
For  a  seooiid  or  (wo  Ihe  eanoo  remainetl  statiee.ar 
scorned  toiicnil  le  on  llu:  I >rii.i  of  de«tri.ict,i^ 


y,  an-, I 


n  ;  i*»H 


I  th 

an   hdowiy  to   ascend  the   sIj'C; 


en, 
mi . 


if  inch  by  inch,  it  !• 

The  danger  vvaB  p  ii^t  !     A  io'.v  nioie  nervuUKS  strokes, 


PERILOrS  ESCAPE  OF   VOYAGEUllS.         1'.    1S2. 


L 


BACK'S  LAND  EXPEDITION. 


183 


and  the  trembling  bark  shot  like  an  arrow  out  of  the 
current,  and  floated  in  safety  on  the  still  water  under 
the  point.  The  whole  thing,  from  beginning  to  end, 
was  the  work  of  a  few  seconds  ;  yet  who  can  describe 
or  comprehend  the  tumultuous  gush  of  feelings  created, 
during  thcb  ^  short  seconds,  in  the  bosoms  of  the  care- 
less voyageurs?  The  sudden,  electric  change  from  tran- 
quil safety  to  the  verge  of  almost  certain  destruction  — 
and  then  —  deliverance  ! 

On  the  6th  of  June  the  canoes  arrived  at  Fort  Alex- 
ander—  situated  at  the  southern  extremity  of  Lake 
Winipeg.  Here  Back  remained  a  few  days,  to  await 
the  arrival  of  Governor  Simpson.  During  this  period 
he  and  Mr.  King  made  some  observations  on  the  dip  of 
the  needle,  while  the  men  busied  themselves  in  unpack- 
ing and  drying  the  provisions  and  packages. 

The  mosquitos  here  were  very  numerous  and  annoy- 
ing. Of  the  sand-flies,  near  the  lakes,  Back  says,  that 
even  the  Indians  do  not  contrive  any  way  of  escaping 
this  tormenting  insect.  Their  usual  mode  is  to  throw 
themselves  on  their  faces  to  the  ground,  and  to  moan 
with  pain.  Back  thought  of  killing  them  by  smoke  ; 
upon  which  Maufelly,  his  interpreter,  expressed  surprise 
that  he  "  should  be  so  unlike  the  old  chief,  who  would 
not  destroy  a  single  mosquito."  By  the  "old  chief" 
was  meant  Sir  John  Franklin,  of  whom  Back  says  :  "It 
was  his  custom  never  to  kill  a  fly  ;  and,  though  teased 
by  them  beyond  expression,  especially  when  engaged 
in  taking  observations,  he  would  quietly  desist  ".om  his 
work,  and  patiently  blow  the  half-gorged  intruders  from 
his  hands:  'the  world  was  wide  enough  for  both.'" 

Leaving  Fort  Alexander  on  the  11th  of  June,  Back 
coasted  Lake  Winipeg,  toward  Norway  House,  where 
he  arrived  on  the  17  th.  Here  he  obtained  the  requisite 
number  of  voyageurs  and   attendants,  amounting  to 


184 


BACK'S  LAND  EXPEDITION. 


a    I 


'■i  „;•: 


eighteen  in  all ;  and,  in  high  spirits,  they  started  for  their 
winter  quarters  on  the  eastern  shore  of  Great  SUive 
Lake. 

On  the  21st  of  July  they  arrived  at  Portage  La  Loche, 
the  high  ridge  of  landwhieh  divides  the  waters  running 
into  Hudson's  Bay  from  those  flowing  into  the  Arctic 
Ocean.  Here  they  had  to  carry  their  canoe  and  bag- 
gage over  the  ridge,  a  distance  of  fourteen  miles — a 
tedious  labor,  which  consumed  eight  days. 

01  .he  scenery  at  this  place  Mr.  King  says:  "  Within 
a  mile  of  the  termination  of  the  portage,  a  most  exten- 
sive and  magnificent  scene  burst  upon  our  view,  and  we 
discovered  ourselves,  through  an  opening  in  the  trees, 
to  be  on  a  hill  upw^ards  of  a  thousand  feet  high,  and  at 
the  brink  of  a  tremendous  precipice.  We  were  cer- 
tainly prepared  to  expect  an  extensive  prospect,  but  the 
beautiful  landscape  before  us  was  far  superior  to  any- 
thing that  could  be  anticipated  from  the  nature  of  the 
country  we  had  hitherto  seen.  At  a  depth  of  two 
hundred  fathoms  below  the  summit  on  which  we  stood, 
the  Clear  Water  Kiver  was  to  be  seen  winding  its  ser- 
pentine course  in  beautiful  meanders  for  thirty  miles, 
broken  here  and  there,  and  interrupted  by  intervening 
woods  ;  while 


'  the  tall  pines  dwindled  as  to  shrubs. 

In  dizziness  of  distance  ! ' 


"  The  valley,  at  once  refreshed  and  adorned  by  the 
smooth  pellucid  stream,  was  embanked  by  two  parallel 
chains  of  hills  extending  towards  the  west,  till  it  became 
lost  in  the  purple  hue  of  distance.  The  inclining  heights, 
here  and  there  covered  with  stately  forests,  and  occa- 
sionally interspersed  with  barren  spots  or  promontories  of 
the  most  luxuriant  verdure,  were  beautifully  contrasted 


m\.t^^ 


BACK'S  LAND  EXPEDITION. 


185 


with  the  icincrated  tiiigo  wliich  overspread  vast  tracts 
of  country  whore  once  the  dense  forests  had  been  con- 
sumed by  lire." 

Tlie  party  arrived  at  Fort  Chipewyan  the  21)tli  of 
July;  at  Fort  Resolution,  on  Great  Slave  Lake,  the  8tli 
of  August.  Here,  having-  obtained  all  possible  informa- 
tion from  the  Indians  relative  to  the  course  of  the 
northern  rivers  of  which  lie  was  in  search,  he  divided 
his  men  into  two  parties,  five  being  left  as  an  escort  for 
Mr.  McLeod,  and  four  being  appointed  to  accompany 
himself  in  search  of  the  Thlew-ee-choh  or  Great  Fish 
River,  since  named  after  Back  himself. 

On  the  lOtii  of  August,  Back  and  his  men  begar  -ne 
ascent  of  the  Hoar  Frost  River.  Its  course  was  a  series 
of  the  most  fearful  cascades  and  rapids.  Almost  im- 
pervious woods  of  stunted  firs,  bogs,  and  swamps, 
occasioned  great  trouble  to  the  party.  They  arrived,  at 
length,  in  an  open  space,  where  the  scene  was  one  of 
barrenness  and  desolation  :  crag  was  piled  upon  crag 
to  the  height  of  two  thousand  feet  from  the  base,  and 
the  course  of  the  river  here,  in  a  state  of  contraction, 
was  marked  by  an  uninterrupted  line  of  foam. 

Rapid  now  succeeded  rapid  ;  scarcely  had  the  party 
surmounted  one  fall  than  another  presented  itself,  rising 
like  an  amphitheatre  before  them  to  the  height  of  fifty 
feet.  They,  however,  gained  at  length  the  ascent  of 
this  turbulent  and  unfriendly  river,  the  romantic  betvUty 
and  wild  scenery  of  which  were  very  remarkable  ;  and, 
after  passing  successively  a  series  of  portages,  rapids, 
falls,  lakes,  and  rivers,  on  the  27th  Back  observed  from 
the  summit  of  a  high  hill  a  very  large  lake,  full  of  deep 
bays  and  islands,  and  which  has  been  named  Aylmer 
Lake,  after  the  Governor-General  of  Canada  at  tliat 
time.  The  boat  was  sent  out,  with  three  men,  to  search 
for  the  lake,  or  outlet  of  the  river  ;  which  they  discov- 
IG* 


18G 


BACK'S   LAND   EXPEDITION. 


\f  ^ 


■  i? : 


1 


cicd  on  the  second  day,  and  Back  himseli",  during"  their 
absence,  also  accidentally  discovered  its  source  in  the 
Sand  Hill  Lake,  nut  far  Ironiliis  encanii)nient.  Yielding- 
to  that  pleasurable  emotion  which  discoverers,  in  the 
first  bound  of  their  transport,  may  be  pardoned  for  in- 
dulging. Back  threw  himself  down  on  the  bank,  and 
drank  a  hearty  draught  of  the  limpid  water.  '-t 

On  the  30th  of  August  they  began  to  move  toward 
the  river,  but,  on  reaching  Musk-ox  Lake,  it  was  found 
impossible  to  stand  the  force  of  the  rapids  in  their  frail 
canoe,  and,  as  winter  was  approaching,  their  return  to 
the  rendezvous  on  Slave  Lake  was  determined  on.  At 
Clinton  Colden  Lake  some  Indians  visited  them  from  the 
chief  Akaitcho,  who  had  been  a  guide  of  Sir  John 
Franklin.  Two  of  these  hidians  remembered  Back,  one 
having  accompanied  him  to  the  Coppermine  River  on 
Franklin's  first  expedition.  At  the  Cat  or  Artillery 
Lake  they  had  to  abandon  their  canoe,  and  perform  the 
rest  of  the  journey  on  foot  over  precipitous  rocks, 
through  frghtful  gorges  and  ravines,  heaped  with 
masses  of  granite,  and  along  narrow  ledges,  where  a 
false  step  would  have  been  fatal.  At  Fort  Reliance  the 
party  found  Mr.  McLeod  had,  during  their  absence, 
erected  the  frame-work  of  a  comfortable  residence  for 
them,  and  all  hands  set;  to  work  to  complete  it.  After 
many  obstacles  and  difficulties,  it  was  finished.  Dr. 
King  joined  them  on  the  16th  of  September,  with  two 
laden  batteaux. 

On  the  5th  of  November  they  exchanged  their  cold 
tents  for  the  new  house,  which  was  fifty  feet  long  by 
thirty  broad,  and  contained  four  rooms,  besides  a  spa- 
cious hall  in  the  centre,  for  the  reception  and  accommo- 
dation of  the  Lidians,  to  which  a  sort  of  rude  kitchen 
was  attached.  .         .y>: 

An  observatory  was  constructed  at  a  short  distance, 


BACK'S  LAND  EXPEDITION. 


187 


'4 


wherein  certain  mysterious  and  complicated  instruments 
were  fixed  and  erected  ;  iron  in  all  forms  being  carefully 
excluded,  and  a  fence  run  round  it  to  guard  it  more  el- 
fectually  from  the  men,  as  they  walked  about  with  their 
guns,  ice-chisels,  and  axes.  Here  Back  and  Mr.  King 
used  to  sit  in  solemn  conclave  for  many  an  hour  during 
the  winter,  closely  observing  the  various  interesting 
phenomena  of  earth  and  sky  ;  and  awfully  mysterious 
did  this  building  appear  to  the  simple  Indians  and  voy- 
ageurs.  They  would  approach  as  near  as  they  dared, 
and,  with  their  arms  folded,  brows  knit,  and  heads  down, 
would  stand  for  hours  wondering  at  the  dead  silence  of 
its  occupants,  broken  only  at  long  intervals  by  such 
exclamations  as  "now  "  —  "  stop  "  —  insomuch  that  they 
at  last,  after  very  mature  and  grave  deliberation,  came 
to  the  conclusion  that  they  were  "  raising  the  devil  I  " 

As  the  winter  advanced  bands  of  starving  Indians 
continued  to  arrive,  in  the  hope  of  obtaining  some 
relief,  as  little  or  nothing  was  to  be  procured  by  hunt- 
ing. Tiiey  would  stand  around  while  the  men  were 
taking  their  meals,  watching  every  mouthful  with  the 
most  longing,  imploring  look,  but  yet  never  uttering  a 
complaint. 

At  other  times  they  would,  seated  round  the  fire, 
occupy  themselves  in  roasting  and  devouring  small  bits 
of  their  reindeer  garments,  which,  even  when  entire, 
aflbrded  them  a  very  insufficient  protection  against  a 
temperature  of  102°  below  freezing  point. 

The  sufierings  of  the  poor  Indians  at  this  period  are 
described  as  frightful.  "  Fami.ae,  with  her  gaunt  and 
bony  arm,"  says  Back,  "  pursued  them  at  every  turn, 
withered  their  energies,  and  strewed  them  lifeless  on 
the  cold  bosom  of  the  snow."  It  was  impossible  to 
aiford  relief  out  of  their  scanty  store  to  all,  but  even 
small  portions  of  the  mouldy  pemmican  intended  for 


188 


BACK'S  LAND  EXPEDITION. 


'ill 


U   h 


ii' 


:;;   i 


the  dogs,  unpalatable  as  it  was,  wore  gladly  received, 
and  saved  many  Ironi  perisliinj^'.  "Often,"  adds  J3ack, 
"did  I  siiare  my  own  plate  with  the  children,  whoso 
helpless  state  and  piteous  cries  were  peculiarly  distrcss- 
mg.  Compassion  ibr  the  lull-grown  may  or  may  not 
be  lelt,  but  that  heart  must  be  cased  in  steel  which  is 
insensible  to  the  cry  of  a  child  ibr  food." 

To  add  to  the  distress  of  Back,  he  received  informa- 
tion that  his  friend  Augustus,  the  aftectionate  Esquimaux 
interpreter  vyho  had  accompanied  him  on  a  former  jour- 
ney, hearing  of  his  being  again  in  the  country,  set  out 
from  Hudson's  Bay,  in  company  with  a  Canadian  and  an 
Iroquois  ;  they  lost  their  way,  were  separated,  and  poor 
Augustus  fell  a  sacrifice  to  famine.  His  remains  were 
Ibund  on  the  barrens  not  far  from  the  iviviere  a  Joan. 
It  appeared  that  the  gallant  little  fellow  was  retracing 
his  steps  to  the  establishment,  when,  either  exhausted 
by  sufiering  and  privation,  or  caught  in  the  midst  of  an 
open  traverse  in  one  of  those  terrible  snow-storms, 
which  may  be  almost  said  to  blow  through  the  frame, 
he  had  sunk  to  rise  no  more.  "Such,"  says  Back, 
"  was  the  miserable  end  of  poor  Augustus!  a  faithful, 
disinterested,  kind-hearted  creature,  who  had  won  the 
regard,  not  of  myself  only,  but,  I  may  add,  of  Sir  John 
Franklin  and  Dr.  Kichardson  also,  by  qualities  which, 
wherever  found,  in  the  lowest  as  in  the  highest  forms 
of  social  life,  are  the  ornament  and  charm  of  humanity." 

At  this  critical  juncture,  Akaitcho  made  his  appear- 
ance with  an  opportune  supply  of  a  little  meat,  which 
in  some  measure  enabled  Back  to  relieve  the  suilerers 
around  him,  many  of  whom,  to  his  great  delight,  went 
away  with  Akaitcho.  The  stock  of  meat  was  soon  ex- 
hausted, and  they  had  to  open  their  pemmican  The 
officers  contented  themselves  with  the  short  supply  of 
half  a  pound  a  day,  but  the  laboring  men  could  not  do 


BACKS    LAND   EXPEDITION. 


181) 


with  loss  than  a  poiiiul  ami  three  quarters.  The  cohl 
now  set  in  with  an  intensity  which  JJaek  had  nev(>r  be- 
fore experienced,  —  the  thermometer,  on  tiio  Hth  of 
January,  beiii<^- T()°  ludovv  zero,  "Such,  indeed,"  ho 
says,  "was  the  abstraction  of  lieat,  that,  with  oig'hL 
hir^e  h)n-H  of  dry  wood  on  tlio  fire,  I  eouhl  not  f^-et  the 
thermometer  liij^lier  than  12°  below  zero.  Ink  and 
paint  froze.  Tlio  sextant  cases  and  bt)xes  of  seasoned 
wood,  i)rincipally  fir,  all  s[)lit.  The  skin  of  the  hands 
hccame  dry,  cracked,  and  opened  into  unsig'.tly  and 
smarting  gashes,  wdiich  wo  vto  obliged  to  anoint  with 
grease.  On  one  occasion,  after  washing  my  face  within 
three  feet  of  the  fire,  my  hair  was  actually  clotted  with 
ice  before  I  had  time  to  dry  it." 

The  hunters  snllered  severely  from  the  intensity  of 
the  cold,  and  compared  the  sensation  of  handling  their 
guns  to  that  of  touching  red-hot  iron  ;  and  so  excessive 
was  the  pain,  that  they  were  obliged  to  wrap  thongs  of 
leather  round  the  trig-gers,  to  keep  their  lingers  from 
coming  into  contact  with  the  steel. 

The  suflerings  which  the  party  now  endured  were 
great,  and,  had  it  not  been  for  the  exemplary  conduct 
of  Akaitcho  in  procuring  them  game,  it  is  to  be  doubted 
wliether  any  would  have  survived  to  tell  thf,  misery 
they  had  endured.  The  sentiments  of  this  worth}''  sav- 
age were  nobly  expressed  —  "The  great  cliief  trusts  in 
us,  and  it  is  better  that  ten  Indians  perish  than  that  one 
white  man  should  perish  through  our  negligence  and 
breach  of  faith." 

About  the  middle  of  A  pril  preparations  were  begun 
for  their  intended  journey  to  the  sea-coast ;  but  on  the 
25th  a  messenger  arrived  bringing  to  Back  the  welcome 
intelligence  of  the  safety  of  Ross  and  his  party.  His 
feelings  at  this  news  are  thus  described:  "In  the  ful- 
ness of  our  hearts,  we  assembled,  and  humbly  oflered 


;   I 


I 


i 


■  ii 


190 


BACK'S  LAND   EXPEDITION. 


Up  our  thanks  to  that  morcifiil  Providence  which,  in 
the  beautiful  hinftuage  of  Scripture,  hatli  said,  '  Mine 
own  will  I  bring  again,  as  I  did  sometime  from  tli(3 
deeps  of  the  sea.'  " 

On  the  7th  of  June,  Back  and  Mr.  King  left  Fort  Re- 
liance for  the  Polar  Sea.  Their  boat,  thirty  feet  long, 
was  placed  on  runners,  and  dragged  over  the  yet  un- 
nielted  ice  of  the  lakes  and  swamps.  A  singular  fact 
in  regard  to  temperature  is  mentioned.  About  the  end 
of  May,  just  before  they  set  out,  the  weather  was  sul- 
try, the  temperature  in  the  sun  being  106"  !  an  extraor- 
dinary contrast  to  that  of  January  ITth,  when  it  was 
*10°  below  zero.  They  now  experienced  some  cold  and 
foggy  weather.  McLeod,  with  a  party  of  Indians,  was 
sent  on  ahead  to  hunt  and  make  cacJies  of  the  meat,  to 
be  picked  up  as  the  main  party  belnnd  came  up  to 
them. 

On  the  28tli  of  June  they  were  fairly  launched  on  the 
head  waters  of  the  Thlew-ee-choh.  From  this  time  till 
their  approach  to  the  sea,  a  constant  succession  of  falls, 
and  rapids,  and  cataracts,  more  or  less  obstructed  their 
progress,  and,  as  Back  says,  "  made  him  hold  his  breath, 
expecting  to  see  the  boat  dashed  to  shivers  against 
8om'3  protruding  vocks  amid  the  foam  and  fury  at  the 
foot  of  a  rapid."  in  passing  down  one  of  these,  where 
the  river  was  full  of  large  rocks  and  bowlders,  the  boat 
was  obliged  to  be  lightened  ;  and  Back  says,  "  I  stood 
on  a  high  rock,  with  an  anxious  heart,  to  see  her  run  it. 
Away  they  went  with  the  speed  of  an  arrow,  and  in  a 
moment  the  foam  and  rocks  hid  them  from  my  view.  I 
heard  what  sounded  in  my  ear  like  a  wild  shriek  ;  I  fol- 
lowed with  an  agitation  which  may  be  conceived,  and, 
to  my  inexpressible  joy,  found  that  the  shriek  was  the 
triumphant  whoop  of  the  crew,  who  had  landed  saftjly 
in  a  small  bay  below."     In  short,  strong  and  heavy 


¥ 


lb' 


BACK'S  LAiiD  EXI'EDITIUN. 


191 


rapids,  with  IuUh  and  wliirl|)0(d8,  kept  the  men,  I'tir 
eighty  or  ninety  miles,  in  a  conntunt  btute  of  exertion 
and  anxiety. 

lie  giveH  an  instance,  on  one  occasion,  of  the  consum- 
mate Bkill  of  l)e  Ciiarloit,  a  half-l)reed  canoe-man,  who 
"  ran  our  rickety  and  shattered  canoe  down  four  success- 
ive rapids,  which,  under  less  able  mana<j;-ement,  would 
have  whirled  it,  and  everybody  in  it,  to  certain  destruc- 
tion. Nothing-  could  exceed  the  self-possession  and 
nicety  of  judf^rnent  with  which  he  guided  the  frail  thing 
along  the  narrow  line  between  the  high  waves  of  the 
torrent  and  the  returning  eddy.  A  foot  in  either  direc- 
tion would  have  been  fatal  ;  but,  with  the  most  perfect 
ease,  and,  I  may  add,  elegant  and  graceful  action,  his 
keen  eyes  iixed  upon  the  riiu,  he  kept  her  true  to  her 
course  through  all  its  rapid  windings." 

On  the  13th  of  July  a  glimpse  of  sunshine  tempted 
the  captain  to  halt  for  the  purpose  of  taking  observa- 
t'ons  ;  and,  while  ho  was  thus  engaged,  the  men  were 
permitted  to  scour  the  country  in  pursuit  of  deer  and 
musk-oxen,  which  literally  swarmed  in  the  barren 
grounds.  The  hunters  soon  returned  with  four  fine 
bucks,  which  afforded  them  an  agreeable  change  from 
the  customary  meal  of  pemmican. 

The  latitude  was  65°  38'  21"  N.,  and  longitude  106° 
35'  23"  W.  At  this  place  the  river  began  tv.  take  an 
easterly  bend,  which  perplexed  them  much ;  causing 
great  anxiety  as  to  whether  it  would  ultimately  lead 
them  to  .the  Frozen  Sea,  or  terminate  in  Hudson's  Bay. 
In  any  case,  they  had  nothing  for  it  but  to  push  on  ;  and 
their  labors  were  rcw\arded  by  their  finding  that  the 
river  trended  again  in  a  northerly  direction,  and  their 
hopes  were  further  increased  by  the  discovery,  on  the 
loth  of  July,  of  some  old  Esquimaux  encampments. 
Once,  indeed,  they  thought  they  saw  tents  of  the  Esqui- 


192 


BACK'S  LAND  EXPEDITION. 


I   i 


.i] 


;  i; 


m.'iux  iihoiid  ;  but,  on  a  nouror  approiich,  they  IuiiumI  out 
to  1)0  HoMK!  luxuriant  cluiups  of  willows,  wliicli  wcro 
iiihiibitcd  by  thouHiUHls  of  geoso,  which  lui.l  scdcctod  the 
H[)ot  UH  couvoniciit  lor  tho  oixsrutiori  of  casiinj^  their 
IcjithcrH.  Thousuuda  u[)Oii  thousands  of  tho  most  exccl- 
lont  quills  woro  lound  scattonul  ovor  tho  sand.  A  curi- 
ous Ibaturo  in  this  part  of  the  country  was  tin;  number 
of  hug'o  bowldor-stoncs,  not  only  in  the  river,  but  on 
the  very  pinnacles  of  tho  highest  hills. 

On  the  28th  of  July  they  met  the  first  Esquimaux, 
who,  as  usual  on  their  first  seeing  Europeans,  exhibited 
consternation  by  shouts,  yells,  antics,  and  gesticula- 
tions ;  under  tho  impression,  apparently,  that  by  so 
doing  they  would  frighten  their  new  visitors  away. 
The  boat  continued  to  approach  the  shore,  despite  the 
brandishing  of  spears  and  other  belligerent  demonstra- 
tions ;  whereupon  the  whole  nation  formed  in  a  semi- 
circle round  the  spot  where  the  boat  grounded,  and 
stood  on  the  defensive.  iJack,  however,  soon  estab- 
lished friendly  relations  with  them,  by  walking  boldly 
up,  unarmed,  and  alone,  at  tho  same  time  calling  out 
Tima  —  peace  —  with  great  emphasis,  tossing*  up  his 
arms  in  true  Esquimaux  stylo,  and,  finally,  shaking 
hands  all  round.  This  quieted  them,  and  they  soon 
mingled  witn  the  men,  from  whom  they  received  a  few 
buttons  with  great  delight. 

A  portage  had  to  bo  made  at  this  place,  and  the 
Esquimaux  here  aided  them  in  transporting  their  boats, 
to  which  Back's  party  were  wholly  unequal ;  so  that  to 
the  natives  he  was  indebted  for  getting  to  the  sea  at 
all. 

On  the  29th  of  July,  while  threading  tlieir  course  be- 
tween some  sand  banks,  with  a  strong  current,  they  first 
caught  sight  of  a  majestic  headland  in  tho  extreme  dis- 
tance to  the  north,  which  had  a  coast-like  appearance. 


BACK'S   LAND   EXPEDITION. 


108 


This  iinportiuit  promontory  Back  HiibHOcpiciitly  named 
Victoria.  "  Tiiis,  then,"  ol)Hervc8  Back,  "  may  bo  cou- 
sidcnul  as  th(3  moutli  of  the  Tlilcw-co-clioli,  which,  iiflcr 
a  violent  and  tortuous  course  of  five  hundred  and  thirty 
geographical  miles,  running  through  an  iron-ribhcd 
country,  without  a  single  tree  on  the  whole  lino  of  ittj 
banks,  expanding  into  live  large  laket',  with  clear  horizon, 
most  embarrassing  to  the  navigator,  and  broken  into 
falls,  cascades,  and  rapids,  to  the  nund)er  of  eighty- 
three  in  the  whole,  pours  its  water  into  the  Polar  Sea, 
in  lat.  6t°  11'  N.,  and  long.  94°  30'  W.,  that  iy  to  say, 
about  thirty-seven  miles  more  south  than  the  mouth  of 
the  Coppermine  River,  and  nineteen  miles  more  south 
than  that  of  Hack's  River,  at  the  lower  extremity  of 
Bathurst's  Inlet." 

For  several  days  Back  was  able  to  make  but  slow 
progress  along  the  eastern  shore,  in  conscqueiiv.v>  "**  the 
solid  body  of  drift-ice.  A  barren,  rocky  elevation  of 
eight  hundred  feet  high  was  named  Cape  Beaufort.  A 
blufi' point  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  estuary,  which  he 
considered  to  be  the  northern  extreme,  he  named  Cape 
Ilay.  Dcase  and  Simpson,  however,  in  1839,  traced  the 
shore  much  beyond  this.  The  difficulties  met  with  hero 
began  to  dispirit  the  men.  They  were  almost  without 
water,  without  any  means  of  warmth,  or  ax\y  kind  of 
warm  or  comforting  food,  and  sinking  knee-deep,  as 
they  proceeded  on  land,  in  the  soft  slush  and  snow. 
So  damp  was  the  weather  that  for  ten  days,  while 
encamped  on  Montreal  Island,  they  could  not  light  a 
spark  of  fire,  or  obtain  a  warm  meal. 

The  low,  flat  country  ""vas  the  picture  of  desolation. 
"  It  was  one  irregular  plain  of  sand  and  stones ;  and, 
had  it  not  been  for  a  rill  of  water,  the  meandering  «jf 
which  relieved  the  monotony  of  the  sterile  scene,  one 
might  have  fancied  one's  self  in  one  of  the  parched 

U 


V      \     / 


194 


BACK'S  LAND  EXPEDITION. 


plains  of  the  East,  rather  than  on  the  shores  of  the 
Arctic  Sea." 

With  unflinching  ardor  did  Back  push  forward,  in  the 
hope  of  reaching  a  more  open  sea,  and  connecting  their 
discoveries  with  those  of  Captain  Franklin  at  Point 
Turnagain.  On  the  1th  of  August  they  reached  the 
extreme  point  of  land  which  terminates  the  wide  mouth 
of  the  river,  and  whence  the  coast  trends  to  the  west- 
ward. This  was  named  Point  Ogle,  and  another  cape, 
seen  far  to  the  west,  was  named  Point  Richardson. 
Several  portions  of  the  coast  of  Boothia  Felix  were  also 
seen  in  the  distance  to  the  northward.  Here  they  were 
completely  baffled  in  every  attempt  to  advance.  Back 
sent,  however,  a  small  party  to  the  westward  to  trace 
the  coast,  which  was  all  that  could  be  done  ;  but  they 
were  only  able  to  follow  the  shore  about  fifteen  miles. 
The  surface  was  level,  and  void  of  vegetation.  They 
found,  however,  several  pieces  of  drift-wood,  one  of 
which  was  nine  feet  long  and  nine  inches  in  diameter, 
which  the  men  jocularly  called  "a  piece  of  the  north 
pole." 

Back  now  resolved  to  retrace  his  steps.  Before 
doing  so,  however,  the  British  flag  was  unfurled,  and 
the  land  taken  possession  of,  with  thiee  enthusiastic 
cheers,  in  the  name  of  His  Majesty  William  IV.  The 
latitude  of  the  place  was  68°  13'  bV  N.,  longitude  94° 
58'  1"  W. 

In  the  middle  of  August  they  left  the  cold  precincts 
of  the  Arctic  Sea.  In  retracing  his  route  Back  ascended 
the  high  grounds  which  divide  the  northern  from  the 
southern  streams.  The  Aylmor,  the  Artillery,  and  the 
Clinton  Colden  Lakes  embellish  the  landscape,  and 
discharge  their  waters  into  the  Great  Slave  Lake. 
Here  he  found  a  splendid  cascade,  of  which  he  says  : 
"  The  color  of  the  water  varied  from  a  very  light  to  a 


fl 


BACK'S  LAND  EXPEDITION. 


195 


lores  of  the 


very  dark  green ;  and  the  spray,  which  spread  a  dim- 
ness above,  was  thrown  up  in  clouds  of  light  gray. 
Niagara,  Wilberforce's  Falls  in  Hood's  River,  the  fulls 
of  Kakabikka,  near  Lake  Superior,  the  Swiss  or  Italian 
falls,  although  they  may  each  '  charm  the  eye  with 
dread,'  are  not  to  be  compared  to  this  for  splendor  of 
eifect.  It  was  the  most  imposing  spectacle  I  had  ever 
witnessed  ;  and,  as  its  berg-like  appearance  brought  to 
mind  associations  of  another  scene,  I  bestowed  upon  it 
the  name  of  our  celebrated  navigator,  Sir  Edward  Parry, 
and  called  it  Parry's  Falls." 

Of  the  Indians,  Back  gives,  in  his  narrative,  some 
interesting  anecdotes. 

Once,  speaking  with  the  Camarade  de  Mandeville,  a 
potent  Chipewyan  chief,  regarding  the  due  observance 
of  certain  moral  precepts  for  his  future  guidance,  the 
chief  listened  with  most  profound  attention  and  gravity. 
When  Back  had  concluded,  he  raised  his  head  a  little, 
and,  with  eyes  fixed  on  the  floor,  said,  in  a  low  and 
solemn  tone,  "  The  chief's  words  have  sunk  deep  into 
my  heart,  and  I  shall  often  think  of  them  when  I  am 
alone.  It  is  true  that  I  am  ignorant ;  but  I  never  lie 
down  at  night  in  my  lodge  without  whispering  to  the 
Great  Spirit  a  prayer  for  forgiveness,  if  I  have  done  any- 
thing wrong  that  day." 

On  the  11th.  of  September  the  return  party  met  Mr. 
McLeod,  according  to  appointment,  at  Sandy-IIill  Bay. 
He  had  long  been  expecti.g  them,  and  had  spent  many 
an  anxious  hour  in  watching  the  distant  objects  in  the 
direction  of  their  route.  With  this  gentleman  they 
returned  to  Fort  Reliance,  where  they  arrived  on  the 
2Yth,  "  after  an  absence  of  nearly  four  months  ;  tired, 
indeed,  but  well  in  health,  and  truly  grateful"  for  the 
manifold  mercies  we  had  experienced  in  the  course  of 
our  long  and  perilous  journey." 


:T 


196 


BACK'S  VOYAGE  IN  THE  TERROR. 


■;'> 


i  ^ 


Proparations  woro  sooti  set  on  foot  to  spend  aiiofhor 
winter  in  tho  wildornoss.  Onco  more  tho  woods 
resounded  with  tlie  woodman's  axe,  and  the  littk^  rooms 
gh)wed  with  the  bhizinp;  fires  of  wood.  Again  the  nets 
were  set  and  tlie  guns  loaded,  and  tlie  white  man  and 
tlie  red  ranged  the  woods  in  company  ;  while  liack  and 
Mr.  King"  Ibund  ample  and  intc>resting  occupation  in 
niapi)ing  their  discoveries  and  writing  their  journals. 
On  the  2Sth  of  JMay,  1835,  Buck  bade  adieu  to  the  polar 
regions,  and  returned  to  England,  where  he  arrived  on 
the  8th  of  September,  after  an  absence  of  two  years  and 
seven  months. 

This  was  not  the  last  of  Back's  labors.  In  1836,  at 
the  instance  of  the  Cieographical  Socic^ty,  the  British 
government  equipped  an  expedition  to  complete  tiie  dis- 
covery of  the  coast-liiu^  between  Regent's  Inlet  and 
Point  Turnagain.  The  ship  Terror  was  set  apart  for 
the  service  ;  and  Captain  Back,  just  returned  from  his 
great  land  journey,  was  ai)pointed  to  the  connnand. 

The  Terror  left  Chatham  on  the  Uth  of  June,  1836. 
On  the  29th  of  July,  when  a  good  way  across  the  nu)uth 
of  Davis's  Straits,  slie  came  first  in  view  of  the  ice.  The 
quantity  of  it  was  great,  and  one  enormous  berg  pre- 
sented a  vertical  face  of  not  less  than  three  hundred  feet 
in  height.  Occasional  clear  and  pleasant  runs  were 
afterwards  made,  but,  in  general,  the  obstructions  were 
incessant  and  tremendous.  And,  so  early  as  from  tho 
1st  to  the  3d  of  August,  when  the  ship  was  near  the 
vexed  and  foggy  shores  of  Resolution  Island,  she  had 
to  bore  and  mantcuvre  her  way  among  dense  floes,  high 
packs,  and  surging  whirlpools. 

On  the  8th  of  August  she  was  moored  to  a  large  ice- 
berg for  protection  from  a  gale.  But  the  berg  looked 
dangerous,  and  was  anxiously  watched  by  the  oflicers, 
lest   it   should  capsize    and   overwhelm   them.      Early 


III. 

ipciul  another 
)    tho    wot)tls 
10  littlo  rooniH 
Vgain  the  nets 
^vhite  man  and 
/hiU;  Hack  and 
occupation   in 
their  journals, 
oil  to  the  pohvr 
0  he  arrived  on 
["  two  years  and 

•s.  In  1836,  at 
[]\y,  the  British 
oniplete  the  dis- 
-nt's  Inlet  and 
ts  set  apart  for 
turned  from  his 

0  connnand, 

1  of  June,  1830. 

,crosa  the  moutli 
of  the  ice.  The 
mo  us  berg  pve- 
•00  hundred  feet 
,sant  runs  were 
)structions  were 

|arly  as  from  th(^ 
[lip  was  near  the 
Island,  she  had 
flense  floes,  high 

to  a  large  ice- 
Ithe  berg  looked 
ll  by  the  oflicers, 
li  them.      Early 


BACK'S  VOYAGE  IN  THE  TERROR. 


107 


next  morning  it  was  violently  struck  on  the  weather- 
side  by  a  lieavy  drifting  floe,  and  for  some  muiutes  it 
rocked  and  osciUatod  in  awful  menace  of  an  Overturn  ; 
but  a  large  piece  fell  witii  a  splash  into  the  sea  from  one 
of  its  corners,  and  providentially  restored  the  equi- 
librium. 

On  the  14th  of  August  tlic  Terror  entered  the  nar- 
rows between  Salisbury  Island  and  the  north  coast.  A 
resolution  was  now  taken  to  steer  for  the  Frozen  Strait. 
Tho  course  for  four  days  continued  to  be  severe,  yet 
aflbrded  considerable  promise.  But,  on  the  18th,  after 
tho  shi})  had  worked  for  some  time  in  only  one  hole  of 
water,  she  was  arrested  by  a  dense  unbroken  pack.,  of 
fearful  extent  and  most  wiklly  rugged  surface.  Yet  tho 
ship  pushed  bohlly  into  it,  and  very  soon,  to  the  sur- 
prise and  joy  of  all,  the  stupendous  mass  went  asunder, 
and  disclosed  a  path  through  wliat  seemed  an  impenO' 
trable  barrier. 

On  the  23d  of  August  they  sighted  Bafiin  Island, 
which  flanks  the  north  side  of  the  entrance  of  tho 
Frozen  Strait.  But  they  found  not  a  channel  or  a  water- 
lane,  even  of  the  width  of  a  brook,  to  invite  them  on. 
The  scene  everywhere  around  was  a  tumulated  sea  of 
ice,  without  one  break,  without  one  cheering  feature, 
and  with  a  surface  so  rough,  and  heaved,  and  peaked, 
that  no  human  being  could  have  travelled  on  it  for  more 
than  a  very  brief  distance.  They  all  but  abandoned 
expectation  of  ever  getting  into  the  Frozen  Strait,  and 
wore  now  glad  to  attempt  to  work  their  way  toward 
Southampton  Island.  They  warped  and  bored,  and 
sp(Mit  many  an  liour  in  feverish  excitement.  On  the  25th 
they  made  sf)mo  littlo  distance  through  a  slack  ;  but  at 
sunset  they  were  stopped  near  an  extensive  Hoc,  where, 
from  tho  effects  of  pressure,  some  ponderous  masses, 
not  unlike  the  blocks  of  a  Titaniau  ruiu,  had  been  heaped 

11* 


198 


BACK'S  VOYAGE  IN  THE  TERROR. 


■  ■  -ft! 


up  to  the  height  of  thirty  feet.  "  The  land,  blue  from 
distance,  and  beautifully  soft  as  contrasted  with  the 
white  cold  glare  of  the  interminable  ice  around,  reflect- 
ing by  the  setting  sun  the  tints  of  the  intervening 
masses  thrown  into  the  most  picturesque  groups  and 
forms,  spires,  turrets,  and  pyramids,  many  iu  deep 
shade,  presented  altogether  a  scene  sufficient  for  a  time 
to  cheat  the  imagination,  and  withdraw  the  mind  from 
the  cheerless  reality  of  their  situation." 

On  the  5th  of  September,  when  they  were  firmly  fixed 
about  sixteen  miles  from  Southampton  Island,  and  saw 
some  tempting  lanes  of  water  at  no  great  distance,  they 
fell  to  the  spirited  task  of  cutting  a  way  through  the 
ice  by  mechanical  force.  All  the  ship's  company,  offi- 
cers and  men,  seized  axes,  ice-chisels,  hand-pikes,  and 
long  poles,  and  vied  with  one  another  in  driving  the 
blocks  asunder,  and  in  driving  them  away  to  the  nearest 
pool.  They  at  length  succeeded  in  setting  the  ship 
free,  and  got  her  into  a  run  of  several  miles  toward  the 
land  ;  but  so  early  as  next  morning,  they  were  once 
more  "in  a  fix."  High  winds  and  foul  weather  at  the 
same  time  came  on,  and  seriously  bewildered  them,  yet, 
on  the  whole,  did  them  good  service,  by  driving  them 
slowly  toward  the  shore. 

On  the  14th  of  September,  within  about  four  miles  of 
the  Cape  Comfort  of  Baffin,  the  ship  became  severely 
"nipped."  A  violent,  agitative,  landward  motion 
pressed  all  the  surrounding  ice  into  the  utmost  possible 
compactness,  raised  much  of  it  into  ponderous  pointed 
heaps  of  twenty  feet  and  upwards  in  height,  and  jammed 
the  ship  with  perilous  tightness  between  the  nearest 
masses. 

The  hapless  ship  was  for  many  days  drifted  backward 
and  forward  along  the  coast,  and  away  from  it,  over  a 
range  of  about  thirty  miles,  just  as  the  wind  or  the  cur- 


X 


OR. 


md,  blue  from 
sted  with  the 
tround,  reflect- 
le  intervening 
10  groups  and 
nany  in  deep 
;ient  for  a  time 
the  mind  from 

3re  firmly  fixed 
5land,  and  saw 
;  distance,  they 
ay  through  the 

company,  offi- 
land-pikes,  and 
in  driving  the 
f  to  the  nearest 
tting  the  sliip 
iles  toward  the 
ley  were  once 

weather  at  the 
ered  them,  yet, 
y  driving  them 

it  four  miles  of 
came  severely 
dward  motion 
itmost  possible 
derous  pointed 
it,  and  jammed 
en  the  nearest 

fted  backward 
from  it,  over  a 
nnd  or  the  cur- 


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hrijr-hi  oj'  thirty  fe(t.     ''Tliu  lat;  i.llue  ii-^An 
and    Iw'iu;rilui!y  aoft  a,^  cuatrui'tctl   with    ilio 


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tnvrotB.    aiul.   pyraniids     Tnauy   in   doep 


■!TK, 


•=l»;idc,  pivsonccd  altop.^lhor  u  scene  riuitiriont  for  a  time 
t..  (jlu-at.  the  iinagiiuitiuTi,  and  v^dtii'lraw  +'  ■•  Dnxtd  IVoru 


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IV 


•tii  uf  r\  I  t'sribcv,  vvK-  .;  y  wra-  nrmly  lixcd 
it'-.,-M^  >*ixr(-fn  ::vu!  .^  Iri/in  *^.  rt^ifun-piiMi  iriajsd,  and  saw 
.•7<  n.'  I'  r.ptiiiu'  !atH>'^  wj"  wator  .-if.  h'.  jrrrut  dit  lauce,  they 
r<'ii  t(..  tbf'  .Mi,,iriu*!  iu.:-;  of  .^'.niug-  a  way  ihrongh  the 
a;(.'  !•:>  iji<-M!lianicai  '"•vc!.'.  Ai!  llui  ship's  coi;ii>any,  offi- 
cers :ind  n:'  n,  •-'.  •/."i.l.  -txcs.  icM^-ohi.^ols,  iiand-pikos,  and 
lonA'  poles,  and  vied  wirh  one  anr;Uier  in  driving-  the 
blooks  asunder,  :.ti.i  in  driving  l.ln'tn  .-iway  to  tho  nearest 
pool.  Tliey  nl  !•  i.g-'l>  sut-oeedod  in  set.iino-  the  s.iip 
iir.e.,  .*iid  gtd  h^r  into  -j.  run  of  sovt^ral  ndlns  toward  Lhe 
'Hndrbot.  H.>  f;.iriy  Wi  i.ext  i^^ovning.  Uit-y  were  otice 
.^j^i'  '  m  H  tix  ■'  llJ-iiJ  ^ti.ulft  and  fb-ii  wraiher  at  the 
•*.H:it«  rifi^f  i":»-'<:  o-  .^r^d  «'••.••  us' r  ^M^vhh-rod  thcin,  yet, 
<ui  t^:-   ««,;:•'•..  flj..   '>s»^*'^   j:^.^=   strvJ'^*..  ny  drividg-  tiiem 

fiS<,.»^|v   lM'.VHV.i   'ho  hhoK'. 

«;ii  thc'  bstij  of  :'^^-ptenjher,  within  abont  ftmr  milej-'  of 
{h<;  (':ip'  Cui'iiji'l-  -d  jJafllu,  the  .Jiip  bocanic  fjoverely 
"nippfd."  A.  viohMit,  ag-itativ  •,  laadvvard  nsotion 
pressed  aii  the  i^urronndine;  ice  into  the  utmost  possi'do 
C"i;ij.>actnrw>r^,  raised  much  of  it  into  ponderous  pointed 
heaps  id"  twenty  feet  and  npu-ards  in  }ieii.jht,  and  jannneil 
tho  ship  with  peribus  tigiitne.ss  between  the  ueaiXKf. 
maBHOs. 

't  hehai/ieF.d  ship  wad  for  inai^y  days  drifted  backward 
and  t'..rward  alon^^  (Ise  coast,  and  away  from  it.  ovi-r  h 
ran^o  of  alK)iit  taiity  nules,  just  as  the  win<l  or  the  our- 


R. 


id,.llue  from 
tod  with  ibo 
ounrl,  rcti'!Ct- 
•  intervc-niiig 
^  gvoupH  and 
any  in  (ioep 
out  for  a  time 
'•.•  Diuid  from 

;<>  nrmly  fixod 
jiii.i,  aiid  saw 
.iu'taiice,  they 
y  ihvough  Iho 
coiiij'any,  offl- 
uui-pikos,  and 
n  driving-  the 
to  th(.'  11  ear*' ft 

|lilicr    lliC     •.>,ilp 

:i  toward  tlie 

,'  were   0'i((3 

.iiier  at  tlie 

■  ■  vijcrn,  yet, 


i^  lug  tueiu 


f'.fur  mile-J-  cf 
a'-uc  severely 
vara  inotiou 
mast  possii'lo 
•rous  poiiitod 
and  jair.rjH'ft 
tlie  Jiearuh^i. 

d  backM-ard 
m  it.  oviM-  » 

/  or  tL*'  ■■ur- 


r 


'  '•!     it*. 

•r. 

^     i 

= ; 

BACK'S  VOYAGE   IN  THE  TERROR. 


199 


rent  or  the  tide  directed.  The  black  frowning  cliffs  of 
Cape  Comfort  might  have  seemed  to  the  most  sluggish 
imagination  to  grin  upon  her  in  irony.  She  lay  in  the 
grip  of  the  ice-masses  as  helplessly  as  a  kid  does  in  the 
folds  of  a  boa-constrictor ;  and  once,  when  she  slipped 
from  that  grip,  or  was  hurtled  into  a  change  of  position, 
she  left  her  form  as  perfectly  impressed  behind  her  as  if 
it  had  been  struck  in  a  die.  The  many  old  Greenland 
seamen  on  board  all  declared  tha^  they  had  never  before 
seen  a  ship  which  could  have  resisted  such  a  pressure. 
The  perils,  too,  were  increasing;  and  at  length,  on 
the  24th  of  September,  the  oflScers  unr^nimously  ex- 
pressed a  conviction,  founded  on  the  experience  of  the 
preceding  thirty-four  days,  that  all  hope  of  making 
further  progress  that  season  toward  Repulse  Bay  was 
gone. 

Captain  Back  now  resolved  to  cut  a  dock  in  the  only 
adjacent  floe  which  seemed  sufficiently  large  and  high 
to  afford  the  ship  fair  protection.  But,  on  the  very  next 
day,  by  one  of  those  extraordinary  convulsions  which 
are  the  last  hope  of  the  ice-bound  Arctic  voyager,  the 
whole  body  of  ice,  for  leagues  around,  got  into  general 
commotion,  and  burst  into  single  masses,  and,  commenc- 
ing an  impetuous  rush  to  the  west,  tossed  many  blocks 
into  heaps,  ground  others  to  powder,  whirled  all  into  a 
hurly-burly,  and  bore  away  the  ship  like  a  feather  toward 
the  Frozen  Strait.  Nothing  could  be  done  by  the  crew 
but  to  await  the  issue  ;  and  when  the  storm  subsided, 
they  found  themselves  midway  between  Cape  Comfort 
and  the  en'.rance  of  the  Frozen  Strait,  about  three  miles 
from  the  shore,  without  any  prospect  of  either  forcing 
their  way  into  a  harbor,  or  finding  some  little  shelter  in 
a  floe.  They  were  once  more  firmly  beset,  with  the  ad- 
ditional calamity  of  being  so  much  tilted  up,  that  the 
stern  of  the  ship  lay  seven  and  a  half  feet  above  the 


rT" 


] 

ii 


fr 


% 


II 


'^  1 


J 


f 


M'i, 


200 


BACK'S  VOYAGE  IN  THE  TERROR. 


luiii/iJiikal,  and  the  bow  was  jammed  downward  on  the 
masses  ihcad.  "Thus,"  says  liack,  "  ended  a  month 
of  vexation,  disappointment,  and  anxiety,  to  me  per- 
sonally more  distressing  and  intolerable  than  the  worst 
pressure  of  tlie  worst  evils  whieh  had  befallen  mc  in 
any  other  expedition." 

After  a  long  series  of  such  trying  vicissitudes,  a  time 
of  repose  followed.  The  long  calm  of  winter  seemed 
at  hist  to  have  set  in.  Back,  remembering  the  example 
of  Parry,  induced  the  officers  to  assist  him  in  contriving 
some  amusement  for  the  men.  Theatricals  were  got  up, 
and  the  farce  of  Monsieur  Tonson  went  oft'  with  hearty 
laughter  and  abundant  plaudits.  An  evemng  school 
also  was  instituted,  and  kept  vigorously  going.  But  a 
startling  event  was  at  hand. 

The  iloe,  which  had  been  at  once  cradle,  wagon,  and 
bulwark,  to  the  ship,  now  cracked  and  split  to  within 
about  forty  paces  of  it,  and  gave  fearful  omen  of  being- 
ready  to  go  to  pieces.  It  had  become  a  home  to  the 
crew,  and  had  been  made  snug  with  snow-walls,  snow- 
houses,  galleries,  and  court-yard,  which  served  well 
some  of  the  best  purposes  of  a  deck.  It  still  held  to- 
gether, shattered  and  crazy,  for  three  or  four  days,  and 
carried  them  within  sight  of  Seahorse  Point,  the  south- 
eastern extremity  of  Southampton  Island.  Early  on 
the  mo'ning  of  the  18th  of  February,  there  occurred,  in 
rapid  succession,  first,  a  terrific  crash  on  the  eastern 
edge  of  the  floe  ;  next,  a  hoarse  rushing  sound  across  it ; 
next,  several  severe  shocks  against  the  ship,  and  next,  a 
visible  rending  of  the  floe  right  through  the  centre.  The 
ship  now  began  to  strain  and  quiver ;  and  she  then 
heeled  over  to  port,  and  relieved  herself  about  six 
inches  from  an  embankment  which  had  been  built  against 
her  side.  At  this  time  the  crashing,  grinding,  rushing 
noise  beneath  the  ship,  and  all  over  the  floe,  were  appall- 


K 

% 
it- 

» 


BACK'S   VOYAGE  IN   THE  TEilROK. 


201 


iiig.  About  two  hours  af'tor,  a  comiuotiuii  like  an  caith- 
(juako  took  place,  and  luade  '  racks  across  the  snow- 
houses,  g-alh'ries,  and  court-yard,  and  lorc(!d  tlie  ship  to 
creak  throu[^h  all  her  timbers.  A  semi-circular  rampar. 
of  ico  advanced  from  the  opened  sea  beyond  the  lloe  ; 
and  enormous  hillocky  masses,  some  round  and  niassy, 
and  others  like  small  packs,  had  broken  loose,  and 
seemed  bi";-  with  woe  anil  niin.  At  this  awful  moment 
the  tumult  suddenly  ceased.  ]iut  the  ship  was  in  a 
most  jjerilous  position ;  the  ice  all  around  was  so  splin- 
tered and  jagged,  aiid  so  fissured  and  holed,  that  it 
could  neither  bear  a  boat  nor  be  made  a  depository  of 
provisions  ;  and  the  land  was  seven  or  nine  miles  dis- 
tant, and  probably  could  not  have  been  reached  by  even 
the  expertest  ice-man,  who  should  have  had  nothing  but 
his  own  life  to  take  care  of. 

On  the  following  day  the  perils  continued  and  in- 
creased, and  on  the  20th  they  reached  a  crisis.  All 
the  ice  was  again  in  motion,  and  ono  of  its  heaves  broke 
up  the  floe  jdong  the  starboard  side  of  the  ship,  and 
threw  down  everything  in  its  way.  Some  of  the  galle- 
ries now  floated  away,  looking  like  tunnels  ;  and  the 
ship  herself  was  in  open  water,  subject  to  the  rubs  and 
nips  of  the  ice-masses.  A  little  after,  she  was  violently 
struck  far  below  the  water-line,  and  creaked  hideously 
from  stem  to  stern,  as  if  she  were  about  to  go  asunder. 
All  the  crew  were  confounded,  and  even  the  poor  sick 
went  tottering  aft,  in  an  agony  of  terror.  But  the  ship 
lifted  herself  fully  eight  inches  from  the  pressure  of  a 
force  which  would  have  crushed  a  less  strengthened 
vessel  to  atoms  ;  and  the  assailing  ice-mass  either  passed 
in  part  beneath  the  bottom,  or  was  wedged  against  the 
large  masses  at  the  extremities.  For  upwards  of  three 
weeks,  similar  scenes,  and  worse,  were  frequent ;  and 
never  on  the  polar  seas  was  there  a  more  marvellous 


202 


BACK'S  VOYAGE  IN  THE  TERROR. 


i  f ,;  I 


scene  of  awful  diinj^ers  without  n  catastrophe,  and  of 
providential  deliverances,  without  any  instrunientali'y 
of  man.  The  scenery  was  soinetinves  niag-nlficently  sol- 
emn, with  such  a  p(U8pectivi;  of  movin<:^,  frowning",  stu- 
pendous towers  and  bulwarks,  as  few  human  bein<;'H 
have  ever  witnessed  ;  and  often,  on  the  contrary,  was  it 
so  enwrapped  in  fog-,  that  its  dreadful  perils  were  much 
more  readily  heard  than  seen.  ' 

On  several  occasions  the  ship  was  violently  nipped, 
and  lifted  herself  up  vertically  to  more  than  twice  the 
former  height,  and  groaned  from  the  severity  of  the  un- 
der-pressure.  Once  the  ice-masses  near  her  came  im- 
petuously on,  and  tossed  their  enormous  weight  ag-ainst 
her,  and  threw  her  up  and  coi.  siderably  over  to  star- 
board. At  another  titne  the  lateral  pressure  crushed 
the  contiguous  ice  into  debris,  and  threw  up  a  huge 
mass  fully  nineteen  feet  above  the  general  level,  and 
rolled  the  adjacent  floe  into  hummocks,  mounds,  peaks, 
splinters,  walls,  and  ramparts.  At  another  time,  after 
some  alternations  of  commotion  and  quiet,  and  when  all 
bad  symptoms  of  an  uproar  had  disappeared,  the  vast 
contiguous  masses  suddenly  started  into  tumult,  rubbed 
and  tossed  one  another  in  furious  conflict,  flung  piece 
over  piece  till  all  was  a  chaos,  made  the  ship  rise  up 
abaft  and  tremble  through  hull  and  rigging,  and  accom- 
panied the  whole  with  such  a  whining,  and  screechhig, 
and  howling,  as  might  have  been  taken  for  a  revelry  of 
demons.  Worse  scenes  than  even  these  followed  ;  and 
one  of  the  chief  of  them  will  be  best  given  in  Back's 
own  graphic  words. 

After  describing  two  remarkable  escapes  from  the 
tremendous  shocks  of  driving  ice,  hurled  together  like 
mountain  masses  by  an  earthquake,  he  observes:  "On 
the  16th  of  March  another  rush  drove  irresistibly  on 
the  larboard  quarter  and  stern,  and,  forcing  the  ship 


BACK'S   VUVAOK   IN  THE  TKKIloK 


iioa 


ahead,  raiHod  hor  upon  the  Ice.  A  chaotic  ruin  fol- 
lowed ;  our  poor  uud  chcrinhod  court-yard,  its  wall  aud 
arched  doors,  gallery,  and  well-trodden  patliH,  were  rent, 
and  in  some  jjarts  plou;^lied  up  like  dust.  The  sliip  was 
careened  fully  lour  streaks,  and  sprang-  a  leak  as  before. 
Scarcely  wer(»  ten  minutes  left  us  ior  the  expression  of 
our  astonislimeiit  that  anythiu}^*  of  human  build  could 
outlive  such  assaults,  when  another  ecpially  violent  rush 
succeeded  ;  and,  in  its  way  ti>ward  the  starboard  quar- 
ter, threw  up  a  rolling-  wave  thirty  feet  high,  crowned 
by  a  blue  sipuire  mass  of  many  tons,  resembling  the 
entire  side  of  a  house,  which,  after  hanging  for  some 
time  in  doubtful  poise  on  the  ridge,  at  length  fell  with  a 
crash  into  the  hollow,  in  which,  as  in  a  cavern,  the 
aftcr-j'  irt  of  the  ship  seemed  irjibcdded.  It  was  indeed 
an  awful  crisis,  rendered  more  frightful  from  the  misti- 
ness of  the  night  and  dimness  of  the  moon.  The  poor 
ship  cracked  and  trembled  violently,  and  no  one  could 
say  that  the  next  minute  would  not  be  her  last ;  and, 
indeed,  his  own  too,  for  with  her  our  means  of  safety 
would  probably  perish." 

During  all  the  perio^l  of  disasters  nfter  the  disruption 
of  the  floe,  the  ship  was  carried  hither  and  thither  over 
a  range  of  from  twenty-six  to  forty-eight  miles  north- 
west of  Seahorse  Point,  and  seldom  further  than  about 
ten  miles  from  the  nearest  land.  But,  afver  the  16th  of 
March,  she  set  pretty  steadily  toward  the  south-east, 
and  kept  a  good  deal  nearer  the  shore.  The  officers,  at 
a  formal  consultation,  agreed  that  she  now  seemed 
liable  to  be  lost  at  any  moment,  and  that  a  light-boat, 
with  provisions,  should,  if  possible,  be  landed  to  serve 
as  a  last  resource,  to  communicate  with  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company's  factory,  in  the  event  of  her  going  down. 
She  still  held  marvellously  firm,  and  continued  to  be 
cradled  on  a  small  piece  of  floe.     On  the  16th  of  April, 


I 


204 


BACK'S  VOYAGE  IN  THE  TERROR. 


apparently  by  some  conflicting  action  of  strong  calm 
currents,  she  lost  the  sides  of  her  cradle  ;  yet  even 
then  she  retained  the  base  of  it,  and  was  borne  along 
on  this  as  on  a  truck. 

So  late  as  the  20th  of  June,  the  ship  still  lay  immov- 
ably fixed  '.n  the  middle  of  a  large  floe,  and,  though  dis- 
ruptions and  openings  then  became  common,  at  com- 
paratively small  distances  from  her,  she  continued  as 
firm  in  her  cradle  as  in  the  beginning  of  February.  No 
alternative  offered  but  to  cut  her  out  with  implements  ; 
and  this  proved  an  riormous  labor,  and  occupied  all  the 
crew  till  the  11th  uf  July.  On  that  day  the  men  had 
paused  to  draw  breath,  when  suddenly  the  ice-rock 
burst  asunder,  barely  allowing  them  time  to  clamber  up, 
in  hot  haste,  for  safety.  "  Scarcely,"  says  Captain  Back, 
"had  I  descended  to  my  cabin,  when  a  loud  rumbling 
notified  thot  the  ship  had  broken  her  ice-bonds,  and  was 
sliding  gently  riown  into  her  own  element.  I  ran  in- 
stantly on  deck,  and  joined  in  the  cheers  of  the  officers 
and  men,  who,  dispersed  on  different  pieces  of  ice,  took 
this  significant  method  of  expressing  their  feelings.  It 
was  a  sight  not  to  be  forgottei>  Standing  on  the  tafif- 
ridl,  I  saw  the  dark  bubbling  water  below,  and  enormous 
masses  of  ice  gently  vibrating  and  springing  to  the  sur- 
face :  the  first  lieutenant  was  just  climbing  over  the 
stern,  while  other  groups  were  standing  apart,  separated 
by  this  new  gulf;  and  the  spars,  together  with  working 
implements,  were  resting  half  in  the  water,  half  on  the 
ice,  whilst  the  saw,  the  instrument  whereby  this  sudden 
effect  had  been  produced,  was  bent  double,  and  in  that 
position  forcibly  detained  by  the  body  it  had  severed." 

A  piece  of  the  base  of  the  ship's  ice-cradle,  however, 
still  clung  to  her,  and  continued  to  do  so  till  the  13th  ; 
and  when  it  did  break  up,  it  did  not  set  her  free.  On 
the  contrary,  she  slowly  rose,  heeled  over  to  port,  and 


BACK'S   VOYAGE  IN  THE  TERROR. 


205 


seemed  for  some  moments  to  be  entirely  capsizing. 
Those  of  her  company  who  were  on  board  felt  suddenly 
as  if  on  the  verge  of  eternity.  Yet  they  evinced  no 
confusion,  and  cleared  off  and  provisioned  the  boats 
with  astonishing  coolness  and  promptitude.  She  went 
so  completely  on  her  beam  ends,  that  no  man  in  her 
could  move  without  holding  on ;  but  she  went  no 
further.  A  submerged  ice-mass,  whose  end  was  con- 
gealed to  her  bottom,  and  whose  other  end  projected 
right  out  from  her,  was  the  cause  of  her  overturn,  and 
it  now  held  her  firm  in  lier  perilous  position.  Officers 
and  men  beheld  it  with  awe,  and  set  promptly  and  ener- 
getically to  the  arduous  task  of  sawing  it  off.  Thoy 
worked  from  eleven  o'clock  in  the  forenoon  till  two  in 
the  following  morning,  afraid  that  a  squall  might  arise 
and  ruin  theni  ;  and  when  at  last  they  had  only  ten  feet 
more  to  saw,  but  were  compelled  by  fatigue  and  drowsi- 
ness to  go  in  quest  of  a  short  repose  on  the  deck, 
suddenly  there  was  a  grating  sound  of  breaking  ice,  and, 
before  a  word  could  be  spoken,  the  ship  sprang  free, 
and  entirely  righted.  The  cheering  of  the  crew  was 
vociferous,  and  their  joy  unbounded.  Four  months,  all 
but  a  day,  had  the  ship  been  in  the  grip  of  the  ice  ;  and 
now,  after  a  romance  of  perils,  and  a  cycle  of  providen- 
tial deliverances,  she  was  again  subject  to  the  control 
of  man. 

The  last  scenes  we  have  described  took  place  in  the 
vichiity  of  Charles  Island,  about  midway  between  Cape 
Comfort  and  the  mouth  of  Hudson's  Strait.  The  query 
was  naturally  raised,  whether  anything  could  now  be 
done  to  prosecute  the  object  of  the  expedition  ;  but  the 
ship  was  found  to  be  far  too  shattered  to  go  again  in 
her  present  state  into  collision  with  the  ice,  and  a 
serious  doubt  soon  arose  whetnor  she  should  be  able 
to  cross  the  sea  to  a  British  harbor.  There  was  noth- 
18 


'fr^" 


! 


Si 


m\ 


I 


!    S 


i  t 


' 


i  H    f 


206 


DBASE  AND  SIMPSON'S  DISCOVERIES. 


iiig  for  it  but  to  run  her,  with  all  possible  speed,  toward 
home.  She  was  utterly  crazy,  and  broken,  and  leaky ; 
and  not  even  her  perilous  tumbling  among  the  ice-masses 
around  the  dismal  Cape  Comfort  and  the  horrid  Sea- 
horse Point  were  more  perilous  than  the  struggling, 
staggering,  water-logged  voyage  which  she  made  across 
the  northern  Atlantic.  She  at  last  reached  the  north- 
west coast  of  Ireland,  gradually  sinking  by  the  head, 
and  was  run  ashore  in  Lough  Swilly  on  the  3d  of  Sep- 
tember ;  and,  had  she  been  three  hours  longer  at  sea, 
she  would  certainly  have  gone  to  the  bottom.  Her 
whole  frame  proved  to  be  strained  and  twisted  ;  many 
of  her  bolts  were  either  loosened  or  broken  ;  her  fore- 
foot was  entirely  gone  ;  and  upwards  of  twenty  feet  of 
her  keel,  together  with  ten  feet  of  her  stern-post,  had 
been  driven  over  more  than  three  feet  and  a  half  on  one 
side,  leaving  a  frightful  opening  astern  for  the  free 
ingress  of  wat  r.  Well,  therefore,  might  her  crew, 
when  they  afterwards  looked  on  her  as  she  lay  dry  on 
the  beach  at  low  water,  express  astonishment  that  ever 
they  had  floated  back  in  her  to  British  shores  ;  and  ample 
occasion  had  they  to  cherish  adoring  gratitude  to  the 
all-powerful  and  all-benevolent  Being  who  had  preserved 
them.  '■.'■-■■ 

Almost  simultaneously  with  Back's  expedition  in  the 
Terror,  in  1836,  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  resolved  on 
completing,  if  possible,  the  survey  of  those  portions  of 
the  northern  coast  which  Franklin  and  Back  had  failed 
to  reach.  This  service  was  intrusted  to  Messrs.  Dease 
and  Simpson,  two  of  their  employees,  with  a  party  of 
twelve  men,  who  were  instructed  to  descend  the  Mac- 
kenzie River,  and,  on  arriving  at  the  sea,  endeavor  to 
follow  the  coast  to  the  westward,  either  by  land  or  water, 
as  weather  and  other  circumstances  permitted,  to  the 
point  at  which  Beechey  turned  back.     They  were  after- 


M 

■  '  I'. 


DBASE  AND  SOIPSON'S  DISCOVERIES. 


207 


wards  to  explore  to  the  eastward  from  Point  Turnaguin 
of  Franklin  ;  to  determine  whether  Boothia  Felix  were 
a  peninsula.,  as  Ross  supposed,  or  an  island  ;  and  then  to 
push  on  in  the  same  direction  to  some  known  point  which 
had  been  visited  by  Back. 

In  July,  1837,  they  had  reached  Return  Reef,  where 
Franklin  was  stopped.  Beyond  this  all  was  new.  Two 
large  rivers  were  discovered,  the  Garry  and  Colville,  the 
latter  more  than  a  thousand  miles  in  length.  Although 
in  the  middle  of  the  dog-days,  the  ground  was  frozen  so 
hard  at  four  inches  beneath  the  surface,  that  they  could 
scarcely  drive  in  their  tent-pegs.  So  keen  was  the 
north-easterly  wind,  that  "  the  spray  froze  on  the  oars 
and  rigging  ;  and  out  in  the  bay  the  ice  lay  smooth  and 
solid,  as  in  the  depth  of  a  sunless  winter."  Yet  even 
here  a  few  flowers  cheered  the  eyes  of  the  travellers, 
and  enlivened  the  stubborn  soil.  On  the  1st  of  August, 
further  progress  by  water  being  impracticable,  —  they 
had  lE^-ained  but  four  miles  on  the  four  previous  days,  — 
Mr.  Simpson,  with  some  of  the  men,  continued  the  jour- 
ney on  foot,  while  Mr.  Dease  and  the  others  remained 
in  charge  of  the  boats.  The  walking-party,  after  two 
or  three  days'  travel,  fell  in  with  a  number  of  Esqui- 
maux, from  whom  they  hired  an  oomiak,  or  family-canoe, 
in  which  to  pursue  the  voyage  along  the  lanes  of  open 
water  occasionally  visible  close  to  the  beach.  On  the 
4th,  after  passing  the  mouth  of  a  large,  deep  river,  "  I 
saw,"  says  Mr.  Simpson,  "  with  indescribable  emotions, 
Point  Barrow  stretching  out  to  the  northward,  and  enclos- 
ing Elson  Bay,  near  the  bottom  of  which  we  now  were." 
This,  it  will  be  remembered,  was  the  furthest  point 
attained  by  the  Blossom's  barge  in  1826,  an  exploit  com- 
memorated by  naming  the  bay  after  Lieut.  Elson,  one  of 
the  officers  in  command. 

The  party  returned  to  the  winter  station  on  Great 


208 


DEASE  AND  SIMPSON'S   DISCOVERIES. 


;- 


i?     3 


{ - '  i\ 


Bear  Lake,  and,  while  there,  received  instructions  to 
renew  their  search  to  the  eastward,  and  were  informed 
of  Sir  G.  Back's  expedition,  with  which  they  were,  if 
possible,  to  communicate.  They  were  descending  the 
Coppermine  in"  June,  1838,  in  pursuance  of  these  in- 
structions, when  the  stream  was  swollen  by  spring- 
floods,  and  encumbered  w'n.  floating  ice  ;  and,  in  shoot- 
ing the  numerous  rapids,  "  had  to  pull  for  their  lives, 
to  keep  out  of  the  suction  of  the  precipices,  along 
whose  base  the  breakers  raged  and  foamed,  with  over- 
whelming fury.  Shortly  before  noon,  we  came  in  !.,ight 
of  Escape  Rapid  of  Franklin  ;  and  a  glance  at  the  over- 
hanging cliffs  told  us  that  there  was  no  alternative  but 
to  run  down  with  full  cargo.  In  an  instant,"  continues 
Mr.  Simpson,  "  we  were  in  the  vortex  ;  and,  before  we 
were  aware,  my  boat  was  borne  towards  an  isolated 
rock,  which  the  boiling  surge  almost  concealed.  To 
clear  it  on  the  outside  was  no  longer  possible  ;  our  only 
chance  of  safety  was  to  run  between  it  and  the  lofty 
eastern  cliff.  The  word  was  passed,  and  every  breath 
was  hushed.  A  stream  which  dashed  down  upon  us 
over  the  brow  of  the  precipice,  more  than  one  hundred 
feet  in  height,  mingled  with  the  spray  that  whirled 
upwards  from  the  rapid,  forming  a  terrific  shower-bath. 
The  pass  was  about  eight  feet  wide,  and  the  error  of  a 
single  foot  on  either  side  would  have  been  instant 
destruction.  As,  guided  by  Sinclair's  consummate  skill, 
the  boat  shot  safely  through  those  jaws  of  death,  an 
involuntary  cheer  arose.  Our  next  impulse  was  to  turn 
round  to  view  the  fate  of  our  comrades  behind.  They 
had  profited  by  the  peril  we  incurred,  and  kept  without 
the  treacherous  rock  in  time." 

They  had  navigated  but  a  short  distance  along  the 
coast  when  they  were  stopped  by  ice,  and  lingered  many 
days  at  Boathaven,  in  a  state  of  utter  hopelessness.    The 


:ries. 

instructions  to 
were  informed 
they  were,  if 
lesccnding  the 
3e  of  these  in- 
len    by  spring- 
and,  in  shoot- 
Por  their  lives, 
cipices,    along 
led,  with  over- 
came in  t.ight 
ce  at  the  over- 
ilternative  but 
it,"  continues 
md,  before  we 
s   an   isolated 
oncealed.     To 
ible  ;  our  only 
and  the  lofty 
every  breath 
own  upon  us 
one  hundred 
that   whirled 
shower-bath, 
he  error  of  a 
been    instant 
ummate  skill, 
of  death,  an 
3  was  to  turn 
hind.     The^' 
kept  without 

ce  along  the 
ngered  many 
ssness.    The 


DEASE  AND  SIMPSON'S  DISCOVERIES. 


209 


time  ibr  returning  had  arrived  ere  any  real  work  had 
been  accomplished.  At  length,  on  the  20th  of  August, 
Mr.  Simpson  started  with  seven  men  for  a  ten  days' 
walk  to  the  eastward,  on  the  lirst  of  which  they  passed 
Point  Turnagain,  the  limit  of  Franklin's  survey  in  1821. 
By  the  23d  they  had  toiled  onwards  to  an  elevated  cape, 
rising  from  a  sea  beset  with  ice  ;  and,  the  land  closing  all 
round  to  the  northwards,  further  progress  seemed  to 
be  impossible.  "  With  bitter  disappointment,"  writes 
Mr.  Simpson,  "  I  ascended  the  height,  from  whence  a 
vast  and  splendid  prospect  burst  suddenly  upon  me. 
The  sea,  as  if  transformed  by  enchantment,  rolled  its 
free  waves  at  my  feet,  and  beyond  the  reach  of  vision 
to  the  eastward.  Islands  of  various  shape  and  size 
overspread  its  surface,  and  the  northern  land  terminated 
to  the  eye  in  a  bold  and  lofty  cape,  bearing  east-north- 
east, thirty  or  forty  miles  distant,  while  the  continental 
coast  trended  away  south-east.  I  stood,  in  fact,  on  a 
remarkable  headland,  at  the  eastern  outlet  of  an  ice- 
obstructed  strait.  On  the  extensive  land  to  the  north- 
ward I  bestowed  the  name  of  our  most  gracious  sover- 
eign. Queen  Victoria.  Its  eastern  visible  extremity  I 
called  Cape  Polly,  in  compliment  to  the  governor  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company." 

In  1839  they  were  more  successful,  and,  favored  vrith 
mild  weather  and  an  open  sea,  they  sailed  through  the 
narrow  strait  that  separates  Victoria  Land  from  the 
main.  On  the  13th  of  August  they  doubled  Point  Ogle, 
the  furthest  point  of  Back's  journey  in  1834  ;  an  event 
which  terminated  the  long-pursued  inquiry  concerning 
the  coast-line.  They  had  thus  ascertained  that  the 
American  continent  is  separated  from  Boothia  to  the 
westward  of  Back's  Estuary.  The  survey  was  now 
conjplete.  A  day  or  two  later,  the  party,  with  flags 
flying,  crossed  to  Montreal  Island,  in  Back's  Estuary, 
18^ 


210 


DBASE  AND  SIMPSON'S  DISCOVERIES. 


[i 


where  they  discovered  a  deposit  of  provisions  which 
Back  had  left  there  five  years  previously.  The  pemnii- 
can  was  unfit  for  use  ;  but  out  of  several  pounds  of 
chocolate,  half  decayed,  the  men  contrived  to  pick  sufii- 
cient  to  make  a  kettle-full  of  acceptable  drink  in  honor 
of  the  occasion.  There  were  also  a  tin  case  and  a  few 
fish-hooks,  of  which,  observes  Mr.  Simpson,  "  Mr.  Dease 
and  I  took  possession,  as  memorials  of  our  having 
breakfasted  on  the  identical  spot  where  the  tent  of  our 
gallant,  though  less  successful  precursor,  stood  that 
very  day  five  years  before.^' 

They  had  now  obeyed  their  instructions  to  the  letter  ; 
the  coast-line  was  determined,  and  connected  with  what 
was  previously  known  to  the  eastward.  It  was  time  to 
think  of  returning,  but  it  still  remained  a  question 
whether  some  part  of  Boothia  might  not  be  united  to  the 
continent  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  estuary.  Doubling, 
therefore,  its  eastern  promontory,  they  passed  a  point 
of  the  continent  which  they  named  Cape  Britannia, 
and  another  called  Cape  Selkirk,  and  proceeded  toward 
some  islands  in  the  Gulf  of  Akkolee,  so  far  as  to  satisfy 
themselves  that  they  were  to  the  eastward  of  any  part 
of  Boothia.  By  the  20th  of  August  they  had  sailed  fur 
enough  to  see  the  further  shore,  with  its  capes,  of  the 
Gulf  of  Boothia,  which  runs  down  to  within  forty  miles 
of  Repulse  Bay  ;  and  they  then  turned  back.  On  their 
return,  they  traced  sixty  miles  of  the  south  coast  of 
Boothia,  where  at  one  time  they  were  not  more  than 
ninety  miles  from  the  site  of  the  magnetic  pole,  as  deter- 
mined by  Sir  James  Ross.  A  long  extent  of  Victoria 
Land  was  also  examined  ;  and,  on  the  16th  of  Septem- 
ber, they  once  more  happily  entered  the  Coppermine, 
after  a  boat  voyage  of  more  than  sixteen  hundred  miles, 
the  longest  ever  performed  in  the  Polar  Sea. 
.-- -  ,,-...   (L.'/.t; 


)son,  "  Mr.  Dease 


CHAPTER  XI. 


BAE's  land  expedition.  —  SHORES  OP  HUDSON'S  BAY.  —  ESQUIMAUX 
CANOES. — REPULSE  BAY. — GAME  IN  PLENTY.  —  SLEDGE  TRAVELLING. 
—  SNOW-HOUSES.  —  RETURN.  —  RENEWED  INTEREST  IN  THE  DISCOVERY 
OF  A  NORTH-WEST  PASSAGE.  —  THE  EREBUS  AND  TERROR.  —  SIR  JOHN 
franklin's   LAST   VOYAGE.  —  MYSTERY   OF   HIS   FATE. 


The  supposed  great  bay,  extending-  from  the  furthest 
point  reached  by  Messrs.  Dease  and  Simpson,  eastward 
to  the  Fury  and  Ilecla  Strait,  now  became  an  object  of 
intense  interest.  The  mystery  which  overhung  the 
north-east  corner  of  the  American  mainland  seemed,  at 
last,  to  be  almost  revealed.  Let  but  the  coast-line  from 
the  mouth  of  the  Castor  and  Pollux  to  the  eastern  ex- 
tremity of  the  Gulf  of  Akkolee  be  examined,  so  as  to 
connect  the  discoveries  of  Messrs.  Dease  and  Simpson 
with  those  of  the  second  voyage  of  Parry,  and  those  of 
the  second  voyage  of  John  Koss,  and  all  would  become 
plain. 

In  1846,  accordingly,  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company 
fitted  out  an  expedition  to  effect  this  object ;  and  Dr. 
John  Rae  was  appointed  to  the  command.  lie  was 
just  the  man  for  it :  he  was  surgeon,  astronomer,  steers- 
man, and  leader  to  the  party  ;  had  spent  several  years 
in  the  service  of  the  company  ;  and  added  to  his  other 
attainments  the  not  unimportant  accomplishments  of  a 
first-rate  snow-shoe  walker  and  a  dead  shot. 

On  the  8th  of  October,  Rae  landed  at  York  Factory, 
after  a  canoe  journey  of  about  two  months'  duration, 


■^Iff^ 


m 


m ! 


212 


RAE'S  LAND  EXPEDITION. 


through  the  interior,  from  Canada.  Here  he  wintered, 
and,  on  the  12th  of  June,  set  sail  in  two  boats,  with  six 
men  to  each,  along  the  shores  of  Hudson's  Bay,  which 
are  here  low,  flat,  and  uninteresting.  On  the  21th  they 
landed  at  Churchill.  They  found  the  people  here  en- 
gaged in  killing  white  whales,  which  are  often  seen 
rolling  their  bulky  forms  up  the  rivers  that  flow  into 
the  bay.  Their  flesh  is  used  as  food  for  dogs,  the  house 
in  which  it  is  kept  being  called  the  blubber-house  ;  to 
find  which  house,  especially  in  summer,  the  simple 
direction,  "  follow  your  nose,"  is  sufficient. 

Having  taken  on  board  Ooligbuck,  an  Esquimaux 
interpreter,  and  the  son  of  Ooligbuck,  a  sad  thief,  who 
had  a  peculiar  fancy  for  tobacco  and  buttons,  they  left 
Churchill  July  5th,  184G.  During  the  day  they  passed 
the  Pau-a-thau-kis-cow  river,  where  they  were  overtaken 
by  three  Esquimaux,  in  their  kayaks.  These  little 
canoes  were  propelled  by  their  vigorous  occupants  so 
swiftly,  that  they  easily  kept  up  with  the  boats,  while 
sailing  at  the  rate  of  four  miles  an  hour.  The  kayak  is 
about  twelve  feet  in  length,  and  two  in  breadth,  taper- 
ing off  from  the  centre  to  the  bow  and  stern,  almost  to 
a  mere  poin^  The  frame  is  of  wood,  covered  with  seal- 
skin, having  an  aperture  in  the  centre,  which  barely 
admits  of  the  stowage  of  the  nether  man.  They  are 
used  solely  for  hunting,  and,  by  means  of  the  double 
paddle,  are  propelled  through  the  water  with  the  veloc- 
ity of  the  dolphin.  No  land  animal  can  possibly  escape 
when  seen  in  the  water ;  the  least  exertion  is  sufficient 
to  keep  up  with  the  reindeer  when  swimming  at  its 
utmost  speed. 

The  oomiuk,  or  women's  boat,  is  much  clumsier, 
slower,  and  safer,  more  in  the  form  of  a  boat  than  a 
co.noe,  and  is  used  to  convey  the  female  portion  of  the 
community  and  their  families  from  one  part  of  the  coast 


RAE'S  LAND  EXPEDITION. 


213 


ere  he  wintered, 

''^^B 

0  boats,  with  six 

,5j^K. 

son's  Bay,  which 

''ii^^^B 

Dn  the  2nh  they 

j^^H 

people  here  en- 

are  often  seen 

rs  that  flow  into 

•  dogs,  the  house 

ubber-house  ;  to 

mer,   the   simple 

W^^K 

lent. 

,   an   Esquimaux 

a  sad  thief,  who 

'J^^^^^H' 

buttons,  they  left 

day  they  passed 

y  were  overtaken 

'^^^^^^Hl 

s.      These    little 

'^^^^^B 

us  occupants  so 

!^h| 

the  boats,  while 

•.     The  kayak  is 

^"^^K 

n  breadth,  taper- 

'^g^^^^^^^E 

stern,  almost  to 

'^'^B^^^^B' 

3vered  with  seal- 

a'^^^^^^B 

-e,  which  barely 

man.     They  are 

s  of  the  double 

?  with  the  veloc- 

possibly  escape 

tion  is  sufficient 

wimming  at  its 

}';  ;'j;';. 

much   clumsier, 

a  boat  than  a 

portion  of  the 

art  of  the  coast 

i 

,1 

to   another,  being   propelled   by  the  women,  who  use 
small  paddles  for  the  purpose. 

On  tiie  13th,  Chesterfield  Inlet  was  passed.  Walruses 
were  here  seen.  "  They  were  grunting  and  bellowing," 
says  Rae,  "making  a  noise  which  T  fancy  would  much 
resemble  a  concert  of  old  boars  and  buflaloes."  At  the 
head  of  Repulse  Bay,  where  they  landed  on  the  25th, 
they  fell  in  with  more  Esquiraaux,  and  procured  from 
them  some  seal-skin  boots.  When  about  to  put  on  a 
pair  of  these  boots,  says  Rae,  "one  of  our  female  visit- 
ors, noticing  that  the  leather  of  the  foot  was  rather 
hard,  took  them  out  of  my  hands,  and  began  chewing 
them  with  her  strong  teeth."  By  this  process  they 
were  softened  for  the  wearing. 

They  quitted  the  head  of  Repulse  Bay,  in  latitude 
6G°  32'  north,  and  succeeded  in  conveying  one  of  their 
boats  to  the  southern  extremity  of  the  Gulf  of  Akkolee, 
in  latitude  01°  13'  north.  They  found  a  chain  of  lakes 
lying  across  the  isthmus,  and  derived  great  aid  from  it 
in  the  conveying  of  the  boat.  They  proceeded  along 
the  coast  of  the  Gulf  of  Akkolee  till  the  5th  of  August, 
and  they  observed  the  tides  to  be,  on  the  average,  far 
higher  than  in  the  Polar  Sea,  but  exceedingly  irregular, 
and  varying  in  rise  from  four  to  ten  feet ;  and  already 
they  began  to  entertain  a  strong  presumption  that 
Boothia,  after  all,  is  a  peninsula  of  the  American  main- 
land. But  they  were  utterly  baffled  in  their  progress 
by  ice  and  fogs  and  northerly  winds,  and  felt  obliged  to 
return  at  about  latitude  67°  30'  north,  and  spend  the 
winter  at  Repulse  Bay.  There  they  built  a  house,  and 
procured  a  stock  of  provisions  by  hunting  and  fishing, 
principally  reindeer  and  salmon  ;  and,  excepting  what 
was  used  for  cooking,  they  had  no  fuel  throughout  the 
winter.  The  sporting-book  for  September  showed  that 
they  had  been  diligent :  sixty-three  deers,  five  hares, 


t 


s 


■   ■ 

•    }       K 


!   .;  I! 


'^B 

1 
1 

1 

t 

'S 

'1 

1         ^' 

1 

1 

214 


L^E'S  LAND  EXPEDITION. 


one  seal,  one  him^rcd  and  seventy-two  partridges,  and 
one  hundred  and  sixteen  salmon  and  trout,  having  been 
brought  in.  • 

On  the  5th  of  April,  184T,  six  of  the  party  again 
started  north  with  sledges,  drawn  by  dogs,  and  travelled 
along  the  west  shore  of  the  Gulf  of  Akkolee  ;  and,  on 
the  18th,  they  reached  the  vicinity  of  Sir  John  Ross's 
most  southerly  discoveries.  The  question  of  the  sup- 
posed communication  with  the  Polar  Sea  was  here  to  be 
set  at  rest.  They  decided  now  to  strike  off  from  the 
coast  across  the  land  as  nearly  north  as  possible  ;  and 
they  had  a  tiresome  march  through  snow,  and  across 
three  small  lakes  ;  and,  at  noon,  when  near  the  middle 
of  another  lake  of  about  four  miles  in  length,  they  ascer- 
tained their  latitude  to  be  69**  26'  1"  north.  They 
walked  three  miles  more,  and  came  to  still  another  lake  ; 
and,  as  there  was  not  yet  any  appearance  of  the  sea, 
Rae  gave  orders  to  the  men  to  prepare  their  lodgings, 
and  went  forth  alone  to  look  for  the  coast.  lie  arrived 
in  twenty  minutes  at  an  inlet  of  not  more  than  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  wide,  and  traced  this  westward  for  upwards 
of  a  league,  and  there  found  his  course  once  more 
obstructed  by  land. 

Some  rocky  hillocks  were  near,  and,  thinking  he  saw 
from  the  top  of  these  some  rough  ice  in  the  desired 
direction,  he  inhaled  fresh  hope,  pushed  eagerly  on  to 
a  rising  ground  in  the  distance,  and  there  beheld 
stretched  out  before  him  an  ice-covered  sea,  studded 
with  innumerable  islands.  But  it  was  the  sea  of  Sir 
John  Ross,  the  Lord  Mayor's  Bay  of  the  disastrous 
voyage  of  the  Victory  ;  and  the  islands  were  those 
which  Sir  John  had  named  the  Sons  of  the  Clergy  of 
the  Church  of  Scotland.  Rae,  therefore,  had  simply 
crossed  a  peninsula  of  the  orulf  of  Akkolee  ;  and  thus 
did  he  ascertain  that  the  shores  which  witnessed  the 


RAE'S  LAND  EXPEDITION. 


215 


le  party  again 
3,  and  travelled 
kolec  ;  and,  on 
ir  John  Ross's 
jn  of  the  sup- 
was  here  to  be 
e  off  from  the 
;  possible  ;  and 
ow,  and  across 
lear  the  middle 
^th,  they  ascer- 
north.  They 
11  another  lake ; 
ice  of  the  sea, 
their  lodgings. 


woes  of  the  "Victory,  the  eastern  shores  of  Boothia,  are 
continuous  with  the  niaiuhind  of  America. 

On  this  expedition,  "  our  usual  mode,"  says  Rae, 
"of  preparing  lodgings  fur  the  night  was  as  follows  : 
As  soon  as  we  had  selected  a  spot  for  our  snow-house, 
our  Esquimaux,  assisted  by  one  or  more  of  the  men, 
commenced  cutting  out  blocks  of  snow.  When  a  suffi- 
cient number  of  those  had  been  raised,  the  builder  com- 
menced his  work,  his  assistants  supplying  him  with  the 
material.  A  good  roomy  dwelling  was  thus  raised  in 
an  hour,  if  the  snow  was  in  a  good  state  for  building. 
Whilst  our  principal  mason  was  thus  occupied,  another 
of  the  party  was  busy  erecting  a  kitchen,  which,  although 
our  cooking  was  none  of  the  most  delicate  or  extensive, 
was  still  a  necessary  addition  to  our  establishment,  had 
it  been  only  to  thaw  snow.  As  soon  as  the  snow-hut 
was  completed,  our  sledges  were  unloaded,  and  every- 
thing eatable  (including  parchment-skin  and  moose-skin 
shoes,  which  had  now  become  lavorite  articles  with  the 
dogs)  taken  inside.  Our  bed  was  next  made,  and,  by 
the  time  the  snow  was  thawed  or  the  water  boiled,  as  the 
case  might  be,  we  were  all  ready  for  supper.  When  we 
used  alcohol  for  fuel  (which  we  usually  did  in  stormy 
weather),  no  kitchen  was  required." 

Sir  James  Clarke  Ross,  who  figured  in  the  voyage 
of  the  Victory  as  Commander  Ross,  says,  "Mr.  Rae's 
description  of  the  inlet  he  crossed  over  to  in  the  south- 
east corner  of  Lord  Mayor's  Bay,  accords  so  exactly 
with  what  observed  whilst  surveying  its  shores,  that 
I  have  no  doubt  of  his  having  reached  that  inlet  on 
which  I  found  the  Esquimaux  marks  so  numerous,  but 
of  which  no  account  was  published  in  Sir  John  Ross's 
narrative."  Rae  appropriately  named  the  peninsula 
Sir  John  Ross's  Peninsula ;  and  the  isthmus,  connecting- 
it  with  the  mainland,  and  flanking  the  inlet.  Sir  James 


! 


21G 


RAE'S  LAND  EXPEDITION. 


Rohh's  Istlinius.  TliP  latter  is  only  one  nnile  broad,  Jind 
has  three  Hniall  ponds  ;  but  it  bears  evident  marks  of 
beinj^  an  aiitinnnul  deer-pass,  and,  tjierelbre,  a  favorite 
resort  of  the  Ks(piiinaux.  llae  had  thus  reached  the 
goal  of  his  wishes. 

A  progress  to  tlie  furthest  point  reached  by  Messrs. 
Bease  and  Simpson  was  not  attempted,  for  it  was  now 
iiscertained  tliat  this  must  comprise  a  journey  over 
land,  and  either  a  voyage  across  a  large  land-locked 
estuary,  or  a  coasting  along  its  shores  ;  and  for  thesj 
the  explorers  had  neither  time  nor  resources.  They 
forthwith  began  to  retrace  their  route  to  the  fort  at 
Repulse  Bay.  All  the  caches  of  provisions  which  had 
been  made  during  the  outward  journey  were  found  quite 
safe,  and  thus  aflbrded  them  a  plentiful  supply  of  food. 
On  the  morning  of  the  5th  of  May  they  reached  some 
Esquimaux  dwellings  on  the  shores  of  Christie's  Lake, 
about  fifteen  miles  from  Fort  Hope.  "At  two  p.  m. 
on  the  same  day,"  says  Rae,  "we  were  again  on  the 
march,  and  arrived  at  our  home  at  halfpast  eight  p.  m., 
all  well,  but  so  black  and  scarred  on  the  face,  from  the 
combined  effects  of  oil,  smoke,  and  frost-bites,  that  our 
friends  would  not  believe  but  that  some  serious  accident 
from  the  explosion  of  gunpowder  had  happened  to  us. 
Thus  successfully  terminated  a  journey  little  short  of 
six  hundred  English  miles,  the  longest,  I  believe,  ever 
made  on  foot  along  the  Arctic  coast."  wt:-^ 

On  the  12th  of  May,  at  the  head  of  a  similar  party, 
Rae  set  out  to  examine  the  east  side  of  the  gulf;  and  on 
the  27th,  in  a  bewildering  snow-storm,  he  reached  his 
ultimatum,  at  a  headland  which  they  called  Cape  Cro- 
zier.  But,  during  a  blink  of  the  storm,  he  got  a  clear 
view  of  a  headland  nearly  twelve  miles  further  on, 
which  he  called  Cape  Ellice,  and  computed  to  be  in  lat- 
itude 69°  42'  north,  and  longitude  85"  8'  west,  or  within 


FRANKLIN'S  LAST  VOYAGE. 


217 


clicd  by  Messrs. 

1,  for  it  was  now 

a  jonnioy  ovor 

xrge  land-lockod 

s  •,  and  for  thesj 

esources.     They 

c  to  the  fort  at 

gions  which  had 

were  found  quite 

1  supply  of  food. 

»y  reached  some 

Christie's  Lake, 

"At  two   p.   M. 

ere  again  on  the 

-past  eight  p.  m., 

le  face,  from  the 

it-bites,  that  our 

serious  accident 

appened  to  us. 

little  short  of 

,  1  believe,  ever 


about  ten  miles  of  the  Fury  and  llecla  Straits,     "  Our 

journey,"  says   Dr.  Rae,  "  hitherto  had  been  the  most 

fatiguing  I  hud  ever  experienced  ;  the  severe  exercise, 

with  a  limited  allowance  of  food,  had  reduced  the  whole 

party  very  much.     However,  we  marched  merrily  on, 

.  tightening  our  belts,  —  mine  came  in  six  inches,  —  the 

:  men  vowing  that  whcui  they  got  on  full  allowance  they 

,  would  make  up  for  losjt  time."     On  the  12th  of  August 

,  the  whole  original  party  embarked  at  Repulse  Bay,  and 

on  the  3lBt  arrived  at  Churchill. 

The  return  of  Captain  Sir  James  Clarke  Koss,  in  181:4, 
from  his  brilliant  career  in  the  Antarctic  Ocean,  gave  a 
sudden  stimulus  in  England  to  the  old  craving  for  the 
discovery  of  a  north-west  passage.  The  ships  Erebus 
and  Terror  were  now  famous  for  their  fitness  to  bravo 
the  dangers  of  the  ice,  and  could  be  reequipi>ed  at  com- 
paratively small  cost.  Naval  officers  and  whale-fisher- 
men and  hardy  seamen  were  fired  with  the  spirit  of, 
adventure.  Statesmen  panted  to  send  the  British  flag 
across  all  the  breadth  of  the  Polar  Sea ;  scientific  gen- 
tlemen longed  for  decisions  in  terrestrial  magnetism, 
which  could  be  obtained  only  in  the  regions  around  the 
magnetic  pole  ;  and,  though  merchants  and  other  utilita- 
rians could  never  again  regard  the  old  notion  of  a  com- 
mercial highway  to  the  Indian  seas  through  Behring's 
St  "ait  as  worthy  of  consideration,  yet  multitudes  of  the 
carious,  among  all  classes  of  society,  were  impatient  to 
have  the  veil  penetrated  which  had  so  long  hid  from  th(» 
.  world's  wondering  gaze  the  mysteries  of  the  ice-girt 
archipelago  of  the  north.  The  very  difficulties  of  the 
v^nterprise,  together  with  the  disasters  or  failures  of  all 
fcrmer  expeditions,  only  roused  the  general  resolution. 
Sir  John  Barrow,  Secretary  to  the  Admiralty,  had  for 
thirty  years  been  the  fervent  advocate  of  every  enter- 
prise which  could  throw  light  on  the  Arctic  regions,  and 
19 


n 


4 


lliil 
i  I' 


113 


218 


FRANKLIN'S  LAST  VOYAGE. 


had  incessantly  bent  in  tliat  direction  the  powerful  influ- 
ence which  he  wielded  ;  and  now  ag'ain  was  ho  at  his 
vocation.  Lieut.  Col.  Sabine,  also,  wiiose  opinion  car- 
ried much  weight,  declared  "  that  a  final  attentpt  to 
make  a  north-west  passag'o  would  render  the  most 
important  service  that  now  remained  to  be  performed 
toward  the  completion  of  the  ma<j^netic  survey  of  the 
g-lobe."  The  Lords  of  the  Admiralty  and  the  Council 
of  the  Royal  Society  gave  a  formal  assent ;  and  Sir 
John  Franklin,  the  hero  of  some  most  perilous  exploits 
within  the  Arctic  circle,  who  now  stood  out  to  view  as 
the  likeliest  man  to  conduct  the  desired  enterprise,  had 
said  in  183G,  and  continued  to  say  still,  "that  no  ser- 
vice was  nearer  to  his  heart  than  the  completit)n  of  the 
survey  of  the  north-west  coast  of  America,  and  the 
accomplishment  of  a  north-west  passa<^e." 

The  Er(  bus  aiul  the  Terror  were  ordered  to  bo  g-ot 
ready.  Botli  had  braved  all  the  perils  of  the  Antarctic 
expedition  under  Sir  James  C.  Ross,  and  the  latter  was 
the  shi[)  of  the  terrific  ice-voyage  of  188G,  in  ]ludson's 
IJay.  They  wore  the  best-tested  and  the  best-ai)purte- 
nanced  vessels  which  had  ever  faced  the  frozen  regions  ; 
and  each  was  now  fitted  with  a  small  steam-engine  and 
screw-propeller.  Sir  John  Franklin  was  appointed  to 
the  chief  command,  and  hoisted  his  flag  in  the  Erebus; 
and  Captain  Richard  Crozier,  who  lunl  been  the  distin- 
guished colleague  of  Sir  James  C.  Ross  in  the  Antarctic 
voyage,  wa^-;  a[)pointed  to  the  Terror.  So  many  naval 
officers  volunteered  their  services,  that,  had  all  been  ac- 
cepted, they  might  themselves  have  completely  manned 
the  ships.  The  total  number  of  persons  put  on  boiU'd 
was  one  huiulred  ami  thirty-eight ;  and  they  formed  as 
select,  resolute,  and  experienced  ;i  luuly  <>f  adventurers 
as  ever  w(Mit  to  sea.  The  transport  Daretto  Junii>r, 
also,  under  the  connnand  of  Lieut,   (irillith,  was  laden 


FRANKLIN'S  LAST   VOYAGE. 


219 


owcrful  influ- 
viis  ho  at  liis 
opinion  car- 
il  uttontpt  to 
er    the    most 
be  performed 
survey  of  the 
I  the  Council 
ent ;    and  Sir 
ilouB  cxplt>its 
mt  to  view  aa 
iitcrprisc,  had 
"  that  no  scr- 
plction  of  the 
rica,  and   the 

ed  to  be  j?ot 
the  Antarctic 
he  hitter  waa 
in  Jludson'a 
best-appurte- 
vAon  re^'ions  ; 
n-en.i2;inc  and 
jippointed  to 
I  the  Erebus  ; 
:n  tlie  distin- 
he  Antarctic 
I)  many  naval 
all  been  ac- 
tely  manned 
ut  on  boiU'd 
•y  formed  as 
adventurcn-H 
'tto  Juni(.>r, 
,  was  laden 


with  out-stores,  to  be  discharged  into  the  ships  in 
Davis's  Strait. 

The  oflicial  instructions  to  Sir  Ji»hn  Franklin  W(M-e 
miinite,  compreliensive,  and  far-si<;-hted,  and  made  pro- 
vision for  all  important  continp,-encies.  But  only  those 
i)f  them  which  relate  to  the  main  conduct  of  the  expedi- 
tion possess  much  public  interest ;  aiul  these,  taken  in 
fomiection  with  the  mournful  and  excitinj;"  mystery  into 
which  the  ships  so  soon  passed,  seem  too  momentous  to 
allow  of  much  abridgment,  "On  putting  to  sea,"  said 
they,  "  you  are  to  proceed,  in  the  iirst  place,  by  such  a 
route  as,  from  the  wind  and  weather,  you  may  deem  to 
he  the  most  suitable  lor  despatch,  to  Davis's  Strait, 
taking  the  transport  with  you  to  sucdi  a  distance  uj) 
that  strait  as  yi'U  may  be  able  to  proceed  without  iniped- 
in>ent  from  ice,  being  careful  not  to  risk  that  vessel  by 
allowing  her  to  be  beset  in  the  ice,  or  exposed  to  any 
violent  contact  with  it.  You  will  then  avail  yourself 
of  the  earliest  opportunity  of  clearing  the  transport  of 
the  provisions  and  stores  with  which  she  is  charged  for 
the  use  of  the  expedition  ;  and  j-^ou  arc  then  to  send  her 
back  to  England,  giving  to  the  agent  or  master  such 
directions  for  his  guidance  as  may  appear  to  you  most 
proper,  and  reporting  by  that  opportunity  your  proceed- 
ings to  our  secretary  for  our  information.  You  will 
then  proceed,  in  the  execution  of  your  orders,  into  Baf- 
fin's Bay,  and  get,  aa  soon  as  possible,  to  the  western 
side  of  the  strait,  provided  it  should  appear  to  you  that 
the  ice  chiefly  prevails  on  the  eastern  side  or  near  the 
middle^  the  object  being  to  enter  Lancaster  Sound  with 
as  Irttle  delay  as  possible. 

"  But,  as  no  specific  directions  can  be  given,  oAving 
to  the  position  of  the  ice  varying  from  year  to  year,  you 
will,  of  course,  l>e  guided  by  your  own  (d)servations  as 
to   the  course   most  eligible   to  be  taken,  in  order  to 


I 


I; 


IliM 


tl  itill 


ll«  » 


i  m  I' 


w'm 


220 


FRANKLIN'S  LAST  VOYAGE. 


insure  a  speedy  arrival  in  the  sound  above-mentioned. 
As,  however,  we  have  thought  fit  to  cause  each  ship  to 
be  fitted  with  a  small  steam-engine  and  propeller,  to  be 
used  only  in  pushing  the  ships  through  channels  be- 
tween masses  of  ice  when  the  wind  is  adverse,  or  in  a 
calm,  we  trust  the  difficulty  usually  found  in  such  cases 
will  be  much  obviated.  But,  as  the  supply  of  fuel  to 
be  taken  in  the  ships  is  necessarily  small,  you  will  use 
it  only  in  cases  of  difficulty.  ? 

"  Lancaster  Sound  and  its  continuation  through  Bar- 
row's Strait,  having  been  four  times  navigated  without 
any  impediment  by  Sir  Edward  Parry,  and  since  fre- 
quently by  wlialing-sliips,  will  probably  be  found  with- 
out any  obstacles  from  ice  or  islands  ;  and  Sir  Edward 
Parry  having  also  proceeded  from  the  latter  in  a  straight 
course  to  Melville  Island,  and  returned  without  experi- 
encing any  or  very  little  difficulty,  it  is  hoped  that  the 
remaining  portion  of  the  passage,  about  nine  hundred 
miles,  to  Behring's  Strait,  may  also  be  found  equally 
free  from  obstruction  ;  and  in  proceeding  to  the  west- 
ward, therefore,  you  will  not  stop  to  examine  any  open- 
ings either  to  the  northward  or  southward  in  that  strait, 
but  continue  to  push  to  the  westward,  without  loss  of 
time,  in  the  latitude  of  about  H^",  till  you  have  reached 
the  longitude  of  that  portion  of  land  on  which  Cape 
Walker  is  situated,  or  about  98°  west.  From  that 
point'  we  desire  that  every  effort  be  used  to  endeavor  to 
penetrate  to  the  southward  and  westward,  in  a  course 
as  direct  towards  Behring's  Strait  as  the  position  and 
extent  of  the  ice,  or  the  existence  of  land,  at  present 
unknown,  may  admit. 

"  We  direct  you  to  this  particular  part  of  the  Polar 
Sea  as  affording  the  best  prospect  of  accomplishing  the 
passage  to  the  Pacific,  in  consequence  of  the  unusual 
magnitude  and  apparently  fixed  state  of  the  barrier  of 


FRANKLIN'S  LAST  VOYAGE. 


221 


vc-mentioned. 
3  each  ship  to 
fopeller,  to  be 
.  channels  be- 
Lverse,  or  in  a 
.  in  such  cases 
)ply  of  fuel  to 
[,  you  will  use 

L  through  Bar- 
igated  without 
and  since  fre- 
be  found  with- 
,nd  Sir  Edward 
;ter  in  a  straight 
without  experi- 
hoped  that  the 
t  nine  hundred 
found  equally 
g  to  the  west- 
,niine  any  open- 
■d  in  that  strait, 
[without  loss  of 
III  have  reached 
n  which  Cape 
,t.     From   that 
to  endeavor  to 
d,  in  a  course 
c  position  and 
,nd,  at  present 

:t  of  the  Polar 
jomplishing  the 
lof  the  Uiiusual 
r  the  barrier  of 


ice  observed  by  the  Ilecla  and  Griper  in  the  year  1820, 
oif  Cape  Dundas,  the  south-western  extremity  of  Mel- 
ville Island  ;  and  we  therefore  consider  that  loss  of  time 
would  be  incfurred  in  renewing  the  attempt  in  that 
direction.  But,  should  your  progress  in  the  direction 
before  ordered  be  arrested  by  ice  of  a  permanent  appear- 
ance, and  should  you,  when  passing  the  mouth  of  the 
strait  betwen  Devon  and  Cornwallis's  Islands,  have 
observed  that  it  was  open  and  clear  of  ice,  we  desire 
that  you  will  duly  '"Onoider,  with  reference  to  the  time 
already  consumed,  as  well  as  to  the  symptoms  of  a  late 
or  early  close  of  the  season,  whether  that  channel  might 
not  offer  a  more  practicable  outlet  from  the  archipelago, 
and  a  more  ready  access  to  the  open  sea,  where  there 
would  be  neither  islands  nor  banks  to  arrest  and  fix  the 
Heating  masses  of  ice. 

"  And  if  you  should  have  advanced  too  far  to  the 
south-westward  to  render  it  expedient  to  adopt  this 
new  course  before  the  end  of  the  present  season,  and  if, 
therefore,  you  should  have  determined  to  winter  in  that 
neighborhood,  it  will  be  a  matter  for  your  mature  delib- 
eration whether,  in  the  ensuing  season,  you  would  pro- 
ceed by  the  above-mentioned  strait,  or  whether  you 
should  persevere  to  the  south-westward,  according  to 
the  former  directions. 

"You  are  well  aware,  having*  yourself  been  one  of  the 
intelligent  travellers  who  have  traversed  the  American 
shore  of  the  Polar  Sea,  that  the  groups  of  islands  that 
stretch  from  that  shore  to  the  northward,  to  a  distance 
not  yet  known,  do  not  extend  to  the  westward  further 
than  about  the  one  hundred  and  twentieth  degree  of 
western  longitude  ;  and  that  beyond  this,  and  to  Beh- 
ring's  Strait,  no  land  is  visible  from  the  American  shore 
of  the  Polar  Sea.  In  an  undertaking  of  this  description, 
much  must  be  always  left  to  the  discretion  of  the  cora- 
19* 


*illi 


;l    nil 


222 


FRANKLIN'S  LAST  VOYAGE. 


maiiding  officer ;  and,  as  the  objects  of  this  expedition 
have  been  fully  explained  to  you,  and  you  have  already 
liad  much  experience  on  service  of  this  nature,  we  are 
convinced  we  cannot  do  better  than  IcaVe  it  to  your 
judgment." 

He  was  instructed,  also,  in  the  event  of  reaching 
Behring's  Strait,  to  proceed  to  the  Sandwich  Islands 
and  Panama,  and  to  put  an  officer  ashore  at  the  latter 
place  with  despatches. 

The  ships  sailed  from  the  Thames  on  the  19th  of 
May,  1845.  The  Erebus  and  tlie  Terror  received  the 
transport's  stores,  and  dismissed  her  in  Davis's  Strait, 
and  then  had  abundant  provisions  of  every  kind  for 
three  years,  besides  five  bullocks.  They  were  seen  by 
the  whaler  Prince  of  Wales,  on  the  2Gth  of  July,  moored 
to  an  iceberg,  waiting  for  an  opening  through  the  long 
vast  body  of  ice  which  extends  along"  the  middle  of  Baf- 
fin's Bay.  They  were  then  in  latitude  14°  48'  north,  and 
longitude  66°  13'  west,  not  far  from  the  centre  of  Baffin's 
Bay,  and  about  two  hundred  and  ten  miles  from  tlio 
entrance  of  Lancaster  Sound. 


CHAPTER  XII. 


ANXIETY    IX    REGARD    TO    FRANKLIN    AND    HIS    SHU'S. —  THREE    EXPEDI- 
TIONS   OP     SEARCH    SENT    OLT.  —  KEM.KTT   AND    JIOUUK's    EXPEDITION    UV 

BEHRING'S      STRAIT. — ITS     RETURN. RICHARDSON'S     AND     RAe's      LAND 

EXPLORATIONS.-     -  IR   J.    C.    ROSS's    EXPEDITION    BY   LANCASTER    SOUND. 

—  THE    EXPLORERS    RETURN  UNSUCCESSFUL. LIEUT.  PULLEN,  FROM  TUB 

BEHRIXG    STRAIT    EXPEDITION,    ASCENDS     THE     MACKENZIE. RETURN    TO 

THE    ARCTIC    SEA  AND    BACK.  THE    SEASON    OP    1850.  PULLEN'S  ARRI- 
VAL  IN   ENGLAND. 


Toward  the  end  of  the  year  1847,  anxiety  heg-an  to 
be  felt  in  regard  to  tlie  fate  of  Franklin  and  liis  men. 
No^  a  word  had  been  heard  from  them  since  they  had 
been  seen  by  the  Prince  of  Wales  whaler  ;  and  appre- 
hension became  general  that  they  had  shared  a  similar 
fate  to  the  Fury  of  Sir  Edward  Parry,  or  the  Victory  of 
Sir  John  Ross.  The  government,  therefore,  promptly 
determined  to  send  three  expeditions  in  search  of  them. 
The  first  was  a  marine  expedition,  by  way  of  Beh- 
ring's  Strait,  to  be  conducted  by  Captain  IIenf*y  Kellett, 
of  the  ship  Herald,  of  twenty-six  guns,  then  in  the 
Pacific,  aided  by  Commander  Thomas  E.  L.  Moore,  in 
the  Plover,  surveying  vessel ;  and  this  was  designed 
to  relieve  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his  companions  in 
the  event  of  their  having  gone  through  the  north-west 
passage,  and  stuck  fast  at  some  advanced  point  of  the 
Polar  Sea.  The  second  was  an  overland  and  boat  expe- 
dition, to  be  conducted  by  Sir  John  Richardson,  to 
descend  the  Mackenzie  River,  and  to  examine  the  coast 
eastward  to  the  Coppermine  ;  and  this  was  designed  to 
afford  relief  in  the  event  of  the  adventurers   having 


M 


ii  hi 


:{  l!  I 


224 


KELLEIT  AND  MOORE'S  EXPEDITION. 


taken  to  their  boats  westward  of  the  Northern  Archi- 
pehigo,  and  forced  their  way  to  the  American  continent. 
The  third  was  a  marine  expedition,  to  be  conducted 
by  Sir  James  Clarke  Ross,  with  the  ships  Enterprise  and 
Investigator,  through  Lancaster  Sound  and  Barrow's 
Strait,  to  examine  all  the  tracks  of  the  missing  ships 
westward  as  far  as  they  could  penetrate  into  the  archi- 
pelago ;  and  this  was  designed  to  aflbrd  relief  in  the 
event  of  the  adventurers  having  been  arrested  either  in 
the  very  throat  of  the  supposed  passage,  or  at  some 
point  on  this  side  of  it,  and  of  their  attempting  to 
retrace  their  steps.  This  plan  of  search  seemed  com- 
prehensive and  noble,  and  was  carried  with  all  possible 
promptitude  into  execution.  The  Plover  left  Sheerness 
on  the  1st  January,  1848  ;  but,  being  a  miserable  sailer, 
did  not  reach  Oahu,  in  the  Sandwich  Islands,  till  the  22d 
August.  She  was  then  too  late  to  attempt,  that  season, 
any  efficient  operations  within  the  Arctic  Circle,  and 
she  passed  on  to  winter  quarters  at  Noovel,  on  the  coast 
of  Kamtschatka,  The  Herald,  meanwhile,  had  received 
instructions  from  home,  and  gone  northward  as  far  as 
Cape  Krusenstern,  in  Kotzcbuo  Sound,  the  appointed 
rendezvous.  But,  not  being-  prepared  to  winter  there, 
nor  prepared  for  explorations  among  ice,  she  returned, 
in  autumn,  to  the  Sandwich  Islands. 

On  the  30th  June,  1849,  th  )  Plover  left  Noovel,  and 
on  the  14th  July  anchored  ofl"  Chamisso  Island,  at  the 
bottom  of  Kotzebue  Sound.  Next  day  she  was  joined 
by  the  Herald  and  by  the  Nancy  Dawson,  the  latter  a 
yacht  belonging  to  Robert  Shedden,  Esq.,  who,  in  the 
course  of  a  voyage  of  pleasure  round  the  globe,  got 
intelligence  in  China  of  the  intended  expedition  through 
Bohring's  Strait  in  search  of  Sir  John  Franklin,  and 
nobly  resolved  to  devote  his  vessel  and  himself  to  its 
aid.     On  the  18th  the  three  vessels  left  Chamisso;  on 


IN. 


KELLETT   AND   MOORE'S  EXPEDITION. 


225 


Lherii  Archi- 
,n  continent. 
e  conducted 
iterprise  and 
nd  Barrow's 
lissing  ships 
to  the  archi- 
relicf  in  the 
<ted  either  in 
,  or  at  some 
ttempting   to 
seemed  com- 
[i  all  possible 
eft  Sheerness 
5eral)le  sailer, 
is,  till  the  '22d 
;,  that  season, 
|C  Circle,  and 
,  on  the  coast 
had  received 
rd  as  far  as 
|ic   appointed 
winter  there, 
he  returned, 

Noovel,  and 
sland,  at  the 

Avas  joined 
[the  latter  a 
I  who,  in  the 
globe,  got 
tion  through 
]-anklin,  and 
Imself  to  its 

lamisso ;  on 


the  20th  they  were  off  Cape  Lisburn  ;  and  on  the  25th, 
after  having  passed  Icy  Point,  they  despatched  a  boat 
expedition,  under  Lieut,  Pullen. 

Tliis  boat  expedition  was  designed  to  connect  the 
proceedings  of  the  present  voyage  with  those  of  the 
overland  expedition  under  Sir  John  Richardson,  and  to 
institute  search  and  provide  succor  for  the  missing 
adventurers  on  the  likeliest  part  of  the  coast  and  main- 
land west  of  the  Mackenzie  River.  It  consisted  of  the 
Ilerald's  pinnace,  decked  over,  and  three  other  boats, 
and  comprised  twenty-five  men,  and  had  nearly  three 
months'  provisions  for  its  own  use,  besides  five  cases  of 
pemmican  for  the  use  of  Sir  John  Franklin's  party.  But 
it  was  accompanied  also  by  Mr,  Sliedden  in  his  yacht. 
It  was  directed,  after  proceeding  a  certain  distance  along 
the  coast  in-shore,  to  return  to  a  rendezvous  with  the 
Plover  at  Chamisso  Island,  but  at  the  same  time  to  des- 
patch from  its  furthest  point  a  detachment  in  two  whale- 
boats,  well  provisioned  and  equipped,  to  extend  the 
search  to  the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie  River,  and  then  to 
ascend  that  river,  and  proceed  homeward  by  Fort  Hope 
and  York  Factory,  in  the  summer  of  1850. 

The  Herald  and  the  Plover,  in  the  mean  while,  bore 
away  to  the  north,  and  on  the  26th,  in  latitude  71°  5' 
north,  reached  the  heavily-packed  ice.  They  sailed 
sometimes  along  the  edge  of  this,  and  sometimes 
through  streams  and  among"  floes,  till  the  28th,  when 
they  could  proceed  no  further,  on  account  of  the  per- 
fect impenetrableness  of  the  pack.  They  were  then  in 
latitude  12°  51'  north,  and  longitude  163°  48'  west. 
The  ice,  as  far  as  it  could  be  seen  from  the  mast-head, 
trended  away  west-south-westward ;  yet,  while  densely 
compact  for  leagues  distant,  seemed  to  be  broken  by  a 
water-line  in  the  northern  horizon.  On  the  28th  the 
ships   came    again  to  the  land,  and   the   Herald   bore 


■.»'riWI 


•*3U/£««* 


l!t»i 


I 

li 


226 


kelli:tt  and  moore's  expedition. 


in  to  examine  Wainwriglit's  Inlet,  while  Commander 
Moore  went  on  shore,  erected  a  mark,  and  buriiul  a 
bottle  containing  information  about  the  boats.  This 
place,  unliappily,  was  found  too  shallow  to  allbrd  harln>r- 
age ;  else  it  would  have  proved  an  excellent  retreat,  on 
account,  at  once,  of  its  high  latitude,  of  its  being  a  resort 
for  reindeer,  of  the  friendliness  of  the  natives,  and  of 
theio  being  no  nearer  harbor  to  the  south  than  Kotze- 
bue's  Sound,  while  even  that  place  was  regarded  by  the 
a  "-masters  as  aii  unsafe  wintering  quarter. 

.!•  /  :n  the  1st  of  August  till  the  lltii,  Cape  Lisburn 
being  appointed  for  a  rendezvous,  the  ships  made 
active  explorations  in  various  directions  near  shore, 
and  away  northward  as  far  as  they  could  penetrate.  On 
the  nth  the  Herald  discovered  a  new  territory.  "  At 
forty  minutes  past  nine,"  on  that  day,  says  Captain 
Kellett,  "  the  exciting  report  of  '  Land  ho  ! '  was  made 
from  the  mast-head :  both  mast-heads  were  soon  after- 
wards crowded.  In  running  a  course  along  the  pack 
toward  our  first  discovery,  a  small  group  of  islands  was 
reported  on  our  port-beam,  a  considerable  distance 
within  the  outer  margin  of  the  ice.  Still  more  distant 
than  this  group  (from  the  dock),  a  very  extensive  aiid 
high  land  was  reported,  which  I  had  been  watching  for 
some  time,  anxiously  awaiting  a  report  from  some  one 
else.  There  was  a  fine  clear  atmosphere  (such  a  one 
as  can  only  be  seen,  in  this  climate,  except  in  the  direc- 
tion of  this  extended  land),  where  the  clouds  rolled  in 
numerous  immense  masses,  occasionally  leaving  the 
very  lofty  peaks  uncapped  ;  where  could  be  distinctly 
seen  columns,  j^illars,  all  very  broken,  which  is  charac- 
teristic of  the  higher  headlands  in  this  sea  —  East  Cape 
and  Capo  Lisburn,  for  example.  With  the  exception  of 
the  north-east  and  south-cast  extremes,  none  of  the  lower 
land  could  be  seen,  unless,  indeed,  what  I  took,  at  first. 


JN. 


KELLETT  AND  MOOllE'S  EXPEDITION. 


227 


CommaTulcr 
md  buricil  a 
.)oats.  Thiri 
illbrd  liarlior- 
iit  retreat,  on 
l)eing  a  resort 
tives,  and  of 
I  than  Kotzc- 
garded  by  the 

Cape  Lisburn 
I   ships    Riade 
s  near  shore, 
penetrate.    On 
rritory.     "  At 
says  Captain 
o  ! '  was  made 
;;re  soon  after- 
ong  the  pack 
of  islands  was 
able    distance 
more  distant 
extensive  and 
watching'  for 
•om  some  one 
(such  a  one 
It  in  the  direc- 
)ud8  rolled  in 
leaving   the 
be  distinctly 
lich  is  charac- 
I — East  Cape 
exception  of 
of  the  lower 
:ook,  at  first, 


for  a  small  group  of  islan<ls  within  the  pack  edge  w^^ 
a  point  of  this  great  land.  This  island,  or  point,  w;  s 
distant  tvventy-liVe  miles  from  the  ship's  tiack  ;  higlu.r 
parts  of  the  laud  seemed  not  less,  I  consider,  than  sixty. 
When  we  hove  to  otf  the  first  land  seen,  the  northern 
extreme  of  the  great  land  showed  out  to  the  eastward 
for  a  moment,  and  so  clear  as  to  cause  some  who  had 
doubts  before  to  cry  out,  '  There;  sir,  is  the  land  quite 
plain.'  "  They  afterwards  ran  up  to  the  island,  and 
hnded  upon  it,  and  found  it  a  sob'-l  and  almost  inaccess- 
ible mass  of  granite,  about  four  mk;  x  half  miles  long, 
two  and  a  half  miles  broad,  au'^  foi-neen  hundred  feet 
high.  Its  situation  is  latitude  tl°  20'  north,  and  longi- 
tude 175°  16'  west.  The  dist'  nt  mouritainons  land 
seemed  to  be  extensive,  and  "'Vas  supposed  by  Captain 
Kellett  to  be  a  continuation  c  the  lofty  range  seen  by 
the  natives  off  Cape  Jakan,  in  Asia,  and  mentioned  by 
Baron  Wrangell,  in  his  Polar  Voyages. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Cape  Lisburn,  on  the  24:th  August, 
the  Nancy  Dawson,  and  the  return  boats  of  Lieut. 
Pullen's  expedition,  rejoined  the  Herald.  They  had 
searched  the  coast  as  far  east  as  Dease's  Inlet,  and  had 
there  parted  with  the  two  whale-boats  ;  and  had,  at 
several  points,  made  deposits  of  provisions,  but  had  not 
obtained  the  slightest  intelligence  of  the  missing  adven- 
turers. Mr.  Shedden  had  been  particularly  active  and 
daring,  and  had  many  times  put  his  yacht  in  peril. 
And,  it  is  pahiful  to  add,  though  this  is  said  in  antici- 
pation of  the  date,  that  he  fell  a  victim  to  his  excessive 
exertions  during  the  noble  service.  He  died,  eigiit  or 
ten  weeks  after,  at  Mazatlan. 

On  the  Ist  of  September  the  two  ships  and  the  yacht 
rendezvoused  in  Kotzebue  Sound.  Upwards  of  a  fort- 
night was  now  spent  in  making  an  interesting  explora- 
tion up  the  Buckland  River,  and  in  establishing  friend}y 


228 


RICHARDSON'S  AND  RAE'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


relations  witli  the  natives.  The  whoh?  month  of  Sop- 
tenibcr  was  rcMiuirkably  fine,  the  frost  to  the  hitest  so 
li^iit  as  not  to  arrest  tlie  streams,  and  strong  winds 
generally  blowing  from  the  east.  The  Plover  prepared 
to  winter  in  Kotzebuc  Sound,  with  the  view  of  making 
further  researehes,  and  received  from  her  consort  as 
much  provisions  as  she  could  stow  or  take  care  of. 
And  on  the  20th  September  the  Herald  and  the  yacht 
weighed  anchor,  and  stood  away  for  the  south. 

On  the  10th  July,  1850,  the  Herald  again  joined  the 
Plover  at  Chamisso  Island  ;  and  the  two  ships  then  set 
out  together  on  another  exploration.  They  proceeded 
northward  till  they  sighted  the  pack-ice,  and  then  sepa- 
rated—  the  Herald  to  return  in  quest  of  another  and 
stronger  expedition  which  had  sailed  from  England, 
and  which  we  shall  afterwards  have  occasion  to  notice  ; 
and  the  Plover  to  prosecute  the  search  eastward  along 
the  coast.  Commander  Moore,  by  means  of  his  boats, 
made  minute  examination  of  all  the  inlets  between  Icy 
Cape  and  Point  Barrow ;  he  and  his  men  suffered  se- 
verely from  cxposuro  to  cold ;  but  they  were  entirely 
unsuccessful  in  the  object  of  their  search.  The  two 
ships  again  fell  in  with  each  other  ofl'  Cape  Lisburn  on 
the  13th  August;  and  Captain  Kellett  eventually  gave 
full  victualling  to  the  Plover,  ordered  her  to  winter  in 
Grantley  Harbor,  and  then,  toward  the  close  of  the  open 
season,  returned  through  Behring's  Strait  on  his  way  to 
England.  Thus,  in  October,  1850,  ended  this  first  west- 
ern searching  expedition,  without  having  thrown  one 
ray  of  light  on  the  probable  fate  of  Sir  John  Franklin. 

The  second  searching  expedition  was  the  overland 
one,  under  the  command  of  Sir  John  Richardson.  In 
preparation  for  it,  several  boats,  seven  tons  of  pemmi- 
can,  large  quantities  of  other  provisions  and  stores,  five 
seamen,  and  fifteen  sappers  and  miners,  wore  embarked 


at  Gravosend,  on  board  of  .1  • 

co„,p,.„y,  „„  „,, ,„;;^;f  '"ps  of  ti,o  n„,,„„,,  ^.^ 

"'■d  Mr.  JUo  loft  Live     ,0,  !  ';,    ^"- ''"''"  'f-el.a.M.s.m 
and  succeeded  in  ovor  7:"'"  ■'"'  ^^'''^'K  l«l« 

of 'he  boat.,  and  I  c  >  ^'T''''''''''' ''''"' ''-I'-- 
20th  June.  The  wh  le  1  .;;'  "^r"'-''  ^'"'-'"ffo,  on  ,ho 
on  Slave  Ri,er  on  iJj.Tf  '"''''  "'"  '"'''  P"'taffo 
'•"';  a  -.award  or  «  „,!,  l"':^;-''  f--  ".e,  liividfd 
anlson  and  Jfr.  ]{,,„,  ,,„j  ,,^,,  ;"^'  "'»'<•■>■  «i.-  John  Rie|,. 
""'lof  Mr.  Bell      T  ,0  .„  "''"'''  "'^  ■'"•""'■"'v  party 

■^-r?.  -th  mil  .oi;:o7;r;  ,r^  -'-P-v/tir^' 

and  nmnediatel^  on.barked  T  "T'  7"  ^'■*'''"«"'  '"on, 
pn.sed  two  boats  and  the  sto  I  f"  ™'''  P"''^  «»">. 
"•ere  d.rected  to  ,nako  the  blst  of  o'  '"'""  "»'  ""'d 
Bear  Lake,  to  coast  ronnd  i^f        '  "''  ^''^^  '»  «reat 

Franklin,  for  the  convcnil,  c    "V""  ""■■  ^'^^  "^  ^ort 
t'e  event  of  its  havi„.    ot^  ,     "  '"''"^'"■J  P^^J.  in 
*e  erect,  at  its  nortl,-oa!tl'  v         •'"  "'^  Mackenzie; 
of  the  Bease  River  sn^HU    '■'"•"'""3'.  near  the  inflnx 
houses  tbr  winter  q™"  :'-;'"!"S*o«ses  and  sto" 
Soptcuber,  to  ae.^T^l,^^;^  '"^  ^««'"'"'"fe'  of 
"afve  hunter  to  the  banksTf '    o  r      '''  """"  '""'  * 
h-nt  till  the  20th  of  that  Lo,,»      ^"PP"™'™,  there  to 

°'^-'^- for  the  arrival  Of  tTtr''"'"^"^*-"^-" 
The  seaward  party  reached  ! 

^-Sm.  On  the^  way  down  tl  '""  ""  ""^  "">  »f 
Good  Hope,  the  lowest  of  tl  '"'^  ''"'  "^'""-e-  at  fort 
*^^eke„.ie,  three  ba"s  of  '/ '""''^"^'^  P^'^  »"  the 
P-ty  from  the  Plov:?,  or  C""?  '"■•  *"«  "««  of  any 
^''''0  might  reach  that  el  ,^  i      '  ^''""''  ^"''''»  «l>ip.s  - 

«on,  also,  whicb  fo  ms Tl  1  1  "t',  f  ''"'"'  Separ. 
kende,  they  deposited  onee  °^  "'f ''«"'' of  the  Mac- 
bottle  of  memoranda  and  Iter  "' P^'""'<'^»n  and  a 

^-■-""•^  party,  bn;y;:;t:ir:.r:;«''-^"'- 

20  "^  ^"cu'Tiference  of 


230       UICHARDSON'S  AND  RAE'S  KXPLOUATIONS. 


a  circle  with  a  ton-feet  radius,  from  tiie  point  of  a  broad 
arrow  painted  on  a  signal-post;  and  they  afterwards 
did  the  same  tiling,  or  similar,  on  Whale  Island,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Mackenzie  ;  on  Point  Toker,  in  latitude 
C9»  38'  north,  and  longitude  I.'J'i"  15'  west  ;  on  Capo 
Bathurst,  the  most  northerly  i)oint  between  the  Mac- 
kenzie and  the  (Joppermin  ■ ;  and  o!i  Cape  Tarry,  at  the 
east  side  of  the  entrance  of  Franklin  Bay. 

The  explorers  cncountouMl  head  winds  throughout 
most  of  their  prognvss  of  eight  hundred  miles  or  up- 
wards, from  the  exit  of  the  Mackenzie  to  the  mouth  of 
the  Coppermine  ;  and  they  always  kej)t  near  the  shore, 
and  landed  at  least  twice  a  day  to  cook,  occasionally  to 
hunt,  often  to  look  out  from  the  high  capes,  and  com- 
monly, at  nig-ht,  to  sleep  on  shore.  Immediately  oft' the 
efflux  of  the  IMackenzie  they  had  an  interview  with 
about  three  hundred  Esquimaux  ;  and  at  many  subse- 
quent points  they  communicated  with  other  parties, 
who  were  assembled  on  headlands  to  hunt  whales,  or 
scattered  along"  the  coast  iii  pursuit  of  reindeer  and 
water-fowl.  The  Escjuimaux  were  confiding  and  frank, 
and  all  said  that  no  ships  had  recently  appeared  on  the 
coast ;  and  those  west  of  Capo  Bathurst  further  said 
that  during  the  preceding  six  weeks  they  never  saw 
any  ice. 

One  fellow  alone,  in  answer  to  inquiries  after  white 
men,  said,  "A  party  of  men  are  living  on  that  island," 
pointing,  as  he  spoke,  to  Richard's  Island.  As  Rich- 
ardson had  actually  landed  there  on  the  preceding  day, 
he  ordered  the  interpreter  to  inform  him  that  he  knew 
that  he  was  lying,  lie  received  this  retort  with  a  smile, 
and  without  the  slightest  discomposure,  but  did  not 
repeat  his  assertion.  Neither  the  Esquimaux  nor  the 
Dog-rib  or  Ilare  Indians  feel  the  least  shame  in  being 
detected  in  falsehood  :  and  they  invariably  practise  it, 


P"tt.v  cM.is.   Kv,,,  i/n*^;    ''"'•'■^7  «■'"■"  ""r  "f  ti,..,-,. 

'"«'="H'o  ;  a,„l  if  „„.y  »„e,  e!^  ,''"  "."^,  "•""'  ■"'  <1"'  m„t 
-'"msl...,ont,   „,„i,  f„  ,  ;',■        '  "■"'^"'"f''  "'l-"v.M„„  or 

-"'•'■»-  ■•«  iu-«  t,.„u,  ,•,::';■':■  ;"'"•'■  "-■  i.-  his 

'"«;;.  '  '"  """"'"-'y  to  elicit  the  ,-oal 

W  ™t  and  fast  Grecian,!  ilr  ,,''''  '""■  ""••'"<]!"& 
"ato  .I.eir  nearest  apnr  Id    .  I  "       """'•  ''""'"y  "'^r 

■""-'-'.  there  ,-.„:„,^^^,^'-'»t  -a.'  range  l.ere 

""'■  any  variation  bevn    1     ^        ^'^^  '"  "'^•'•'' 'anffnag,. 

^»^-C  a  mere  pro^    .-r"";,:"'^  l?  -'--•«'" 

^l""  was  born  on  tl,o  East  Main  '  *''"  '"""■|^'-'-'f">-- 

James's  Bay,  ,,„.,  „o     J^  ^f^  "■  <"'  -ostern  shore  of 

""d  makin,.  m,„.olf  under  tood.T,'"  """"^^^-^-^'"^ 
"'«  '-tnary  of  the  Maeke,  ^.^  ,,''  l'  ''^^"™''»^  "^ 
coast  line  „,e  „,•,,,„,,  ,  *  ^    •        "ffh     y  the  nearest 

"^^w^rsr:::tfoi:tr"^r-'^-^- 

«"l-ation,-  „„d  ,„„,  of  ,    ::t  hT  r*'  *""'"*-^  "f 

he  company's  service   at    ho  f  ■"""  '•■"^■''"  "'t" 

'-  -ays  Of  their  whit    Lso    ..tt'T^'f'  ''"'  "'^"''^  ■•"*» 

'■'ous,  I'andy,  and  intelli  J,U  ;h;\r  ,  "''"  """■''  ""'»«- 

'»  orpreters  of  the  nation  thltT.^'  ^"'^'""'-    '"'-'  fo' " 

'^-ft(fourinall)„ere    ™  t Iv,         '^'  ""•"""  '''^'J"'"-"*' ■' 

.y  icason  to  believe  that 


fl 


,^j-i  nf  ■■u.  ■:;  iffifryf*"^'"-?^'^'^ 


l! 


>n 


232 


RICHARDSON'S  AND   RAE'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


within  their  own  community  the  rights  of  property  are 
held  in  great  respect,  even  the  hunting-grounds  of  fami- 
lies being  kept  sacred.  Yet  their  covetousness  of  the 
property  of  strangers,  and  their  dexterity  in  thieving, 
are  remarkable,  and  they  seem  to  have  most  of  the  vices, 
as  well  as  the  virtues,  of  the  Norwegian  Vikings.  Their 
personal  bravery  is  conspicuous,  and  they  are  the  only 
native  nation  on  the  North  American  continent  who 
oppose  their  enemies  face  to  face  in  open  fight.  In- 
stead of  flying,  like  tlio  northern  Indians,  on  the  sight 
of  a  stranger,  they  did  not  scrnple,  in  parties  of  two  or 
three,  to  come  off  to  our  boats  and  enter  into  barter ; 
and  never,  on  any  occasion,  showed  the  least  disposi- 
tion to  yitid  anything  belonging  to  them  through  fear." 
The  Esquimaux  winter  huts  are  thus  described  : 

"  These  buildings  are  generally  placed  on  points 
where  the  water  is  deep  enough  for  a  boat  to  come  to 
the  beach,  such  a  locality''  being  probably  selected  by 
the  natives  to  enable  them  to  tow  a  whale  or  seal  more 
closely  to  the  place  where  it  is  to  be  cut  up.  The 
knowledge  of  this  fact  induced  us  generally  to  look  for 
the  buildings  when  we  wished  to  land.  The  houses  are 
constructed  of  drilt-timber,  strongly  built  together,  and 
covered  with  earth  to  the  thickness  of  from  one  to  two 
feet.  Light  and  air  are  admitted  by  a  low  door  at  one 
end  ;  and  even  this  entrance  is  closed  by  a  slab  of  snow 
in  the  winter  time,  when  their  lamps  supply  them  with 
heat  as  well  as  light.  Ten  or  twelve  people  may  seat 
themselves  in  the  area  of  one  of  these  houses,  though 
not  comfortably'' ;  and  in  the  winter  the  imperfect  admis- 
sion of  fresh  air,  and  the  effluvia  arising  from  the  greasy 
bodies  of  a  whole  family,  must  render  them  most  disa- 
greeable as  well  as  unwholesome  abodes.  I  have  been 
told  that  when  the  tiimily  alone  are  present,  tlie  several 
members  of  it  sit  partly  or  even  wholly  naked." 


KAL  S  EXPLORATIONS.        233 

The  exploi-ors  mot /loos  of  rh'r.  • 
^fter  roundi..  Oupo  iC/  ,     ^'^^  ^^^  ^^-'  ^^'-t  time 
more  niirneruu«Iy  as  iho.r  ^^  encountered  them 

f -it.  0,.  u/z   r:;:rf "  f "'""■■'  -"^  ^'^^ 

Ihcmselvos  hem„,c..l  ,•„  by  j,„ '!'    '"""'"'S  they  fbund 
"«  «'e  eye  could  reaeh.     TJ,„  tV  ;'      ;  "-'""'"''"*?  "«  '^'^ 
ffomal,  but  now  it  parsed  Tt,  ,        ''' '""'  '"■"'«'■"'  beo„ 
que.-,t  snovv.«to™..      T,  ,  o         •"■'''"""''  '■'•"^''  ^""'  fro- 
'"•«'  great  difficulty ;  a  d  ^r     .?  '"'""'-■'"'■»'  S"'  «" 
™''  u-  the  west  s^-dc    ,f  ^f"  '  .'"^  ''•^<'  P«'otrated 
'■"S'fod    by  ri.o..ous\  tL     ::  'T,'^'"^'  "-^we..e 
'tondon  their  boats.     They     i,.,'    ,      ""  """P<--»>--^   to 
J"lhl  a  portiou  of  their  offidT;/  '■'■■' '™'-'^  "'■='l'le  to 

them  to  e..a„,i„e  the  we  te       .'"f  ""■^' "•'"^■'"'"-tod 
Wollaston  Laud,  lyiu,.'',    '      1    '"""'"■"  >*''»'•««  of 
''"d  duriug  elev„';°r;;"-^f°f  Coronation  «"if,- 
September,  they  travXd        I    ^,f  ,'■"  "^  '^tb  of' 
(^oppermine,   to  their  appoint  '       "  ''"^^'y  "''  «>« 

Ooufidcuce,  at  the  north  e^"  '""•"''  '"'"'«  ^t  Fort 

Bear  Lake.     J,-,,t  «u    , L  -1    j!  t'^P- T '^  "''  «'«  «''-' 
to  England.  *"'  '^"^"'  ^''ehardson  ret,u-ued 

I''  hi.s  official  repoi't  tn  ti     c 

Si-  John ,.,,..  ..';:'tt;trb7<'^'''-^^'>-'ty, 

z.eandCoppern,ine,Icareldl^  """"'  "'«  ^''^"oko.i- 

-fuctions  With   ;  ;:    "  '  ^;::'^"'«'  «-•'•  'ord.ship». 
«>a»t.]i„e,  and  became  fullv  ci     .'''^'"""""'•"n  of  the 
''■■"' passed  within  view  of   he        ■'.""■'^  "''"  »"  «'"> 
"-■'y  i™p..ssib,e  that  t  ey  eor/d 'f '""•     "  ■•«'  ""kod, 
^''■■-ocl  by  son,e  of  ,|,e  ,'LT  "  ''""«  «"  ""ob- 

?"  «.e  look-ont  for  .  ::°"■;v'"'■"■"°f^^«^"■•"'-- 
;"f»'■">od  by  the  Esquimau  of  R  V.  T"'"'  ""'■•«°^«'-, 
''»d  I'oen  pressinr.  on  t  !  ''^  '  '"''^'  """  tho  icj 

'"-:  and  its  elotc  W,d  r  ;'r'^ ''" '^'-'^ -'"•- 

-  «-  «h  of  SepteX  lat '  r:;  ..n"'"".  ^™  ""■'  '•'■       ' 

20*  ^  '"«^''3^  ""probable 


'I- 


i 


2M       RTCriARUSON'S  AND   RAE'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


wi 


that  it  would  open  for  ship  navigation  hitor  in  the 
season. 

"  I  regretted  extremely  that  the  state  of  the  ice  pre- 
vented me  from  crossing  to  Wolhiston  Land,  and  thus 
completing,  in  one  season,  the  whole  scheme  of  their 
lordshi[)s'  instructions.  The  opening  between  Wollas- 
ton  and  Victoria  Lands  has  always  appeared  to  me  to 
possess  great  interest ;  for  through  it  the  flood-tide  evi- 
dently sets  into  Coronation  (Julf,  diverging  t'o  the  west- 
ward by  the  Dolphin  and  Union  Strait,  and  to  the  east- 
ward round  Capo  Alexander.  By  the  fifth  clause  of  Sir 
John  Franklin's  instructions,  he  is  directed  to  steer 
Bouth-wcstward  from  Cape  Walker,  which  v/^ould  lead 
liim  nearly  in  the  direction  of  the  strait  in  question.  If 
Sir  John  found  Barrow's  Strait  as  open  as  when  Sir 
Edward  Parry  passed  it  on  four  previous  occasions,  I 
am  c<mvinced  that  (complying  as  exactly  as  he  could 
with  his  instructions,  and  without  looking  into  Welling- 
ton Sound,  or  other  opoTu'ngs  either  to  the  south  or  north 
of  iiarrow's  Strait)  he  pushed  directly  west  to  Cape 
Walker,  and  from  thence  south-westwards.  If  so,  the 
ships  were  probably  shut  np  on  some  of  the  passages 
betvN^een  Victoria,  Banks',  and  Wollaston  Lands. 

"  Being  apprehensive  that  the  boats  I  left  on  the 
coast  would  be  broken  up  by  the  Esquimaux,  and  being, 
moreover,  of  opinion  that  the  examination  of  the  open- 
ing in  question  might  be  safely  and  efficiently  p(U'formed 
in  the  only  remaining  boat  1  had  fit  fur  the  transport 
from  Bear  Lake  to  the  Coppermine,  I  d'^'ermined  to 
intrust  this  important  service  to  Mr.  Rae,  wiio  volun- 
teered, and  whose  ability  and  zeal  in  the  cause  I  cannot 
too  highly  commend.  He  selected  an  excellent  crew, 
all  of  them  experienced  voyageurs,  and  capable  of  find- 
ing their  way  back  to  Bear  Lake  without  guides,  should 
any  unforeseen  accident  deprive  them  of  their  leader. 


li 


SIR  J.   C.  ROSS'S   EXPEDITION. 


235 


In  the  month  of  March  (1819)  a  sufficient  supply  of 
pcmmican,  and  other  necessary  stores,  with  the  equip- 
ments of  the  boat,  were  transported  over  the  snow  on 
dog--sledges  to  a  navig-able  part  of  the  Kendall  River, 
and  left  there  under  the  charge  of  two  men.  As  soon 
as  the  Dease  broke  up  in  June,  Mr.  Rae  would  follow, 
with  the  boat,  the  rest  of  the  crew,  and  a  party  of  Indian 
hunters,  and  would  descend  the  (Joppermine  River  about 
the  middle  of  July,  at  which  time  the  sea  generally 
begins  to  break  up.  He  would  then,  as  soon  as  possi- 
ble, cross  from  Cape  Krusenstern  to  Wollaston  Land, 
and  endeavor  to  penetrate  to  the  northward,  erecting 
signal-columns,  and  making  deposits  on  conspicuous 
headlands,  and  especially  on  the  north  shore  of  Banks' 
Land,  should  he  be  fortunate  enough  to  attain  that 
coast.  JLe  w^as  farther  instructed  not  to  hazard  the 
safety  of  liis  party  by  remaining  too  long  on  the  north 
side  of  Dolphin  and  Union  Strait,  and  to  be  guided  in 
liis  movements  by  the  season,  the  state  of  the  ice,  and 
such  intelligence  as  ho  i.  i'!;ht  obtain  from  the  Esqui- 
maux. He  was  also  requested  to  engage  one  or  more 
families  of  Indian  hunters  to  pass  the  summer  of  1850 
on  the  banks  of  the  Coppermine  River,  to  be  ready  to 
assiSt  any  [)arty  that  may  direct  their  course  that  way." 
Mr.  Rae  repeated  iiis  elaborate  and  perilous  mission  in 
the  summer  of  1850. 

The  third  and  most  important  of  the  three  searching- 
expeditions  of  1848  was  the  marine  one  conducted  by 
Captain  Sir  James  Clarke  Ross.  This  comprised  two 
superb  shi})s,  —  the  Enterprise,  of  four  hundred  and  sev- 
enty tons  and  seventy  men,  and  the  Investigator,  of 
four  imndred  and  twenty  tons  and  seventy  men,  both 
as  strong  as  they  could  be  made,  and  furnished  with 
every  possible  appliance.  Each  was  provided  with  a 
scrcw-propcllod  steam-launch,  thirty-one  and  a  half  feet 


V 


* 
t 


Ei 


i 


236 


SIR  J.   C.   ROSS'S  EXPFDIIiON. 


'!';ti^ 


long,  and  capable  of  an  avcrag-o  speed  of  eleven  miles 
an  hour.  Captain  E.  J.  Bird  was  appointed  to  the  com- 
mand of  the  Investig-ator,  Tiie  ships  were  instructed 
to  proceed  together  to  the  liead  of  Barrow's  Strait ;  and 
the  Enterprise,  if  possible,  to  push  on  to  a  vintering- 
place  about  Winter  Harbor  or  Baid<s'  Land,  while  the 
Investigator  should  try  to  find  harborage  somewiiere 
about  (iarnier  Bay  or  Gape  lleimell.  Parties  were  to 
go  from  the  Enterprise  along  respectively  the  eastern 
and  the  westfjrn  sliores  of  Banks'  Land,  to  cross  Sir 
John  Richardson's  expedition  on  the  mainland ;  and 
parties  from  the  Investigator  were  to  explore  the  coasts 
of  North  Somerset  and  Boothia, 

The  expedition  l(;ft  the  Thames  on  tlio  12th  of  May, 
1848,  and  entered  Baflin's  Bay  early  in  July.  A  letter 
was  written  by  Sir  James  Clarke  Ross,  from  the  Danish 
settlement  of  Upernavik,  on  tlie  12ih  of  July,  stating 
that  if,  after  passing  a  second  winter  at  or  near  Port 
Leopold,  he  shouh^  get  no  intelligeiue  of  Sir  John 
Franklin  and  his  party,  he  would  send  the  Investigator 
home  to  Ertgland,  and  prosecute  a  further  search  in  the 
Enti  I'prise  alo)!i'.  The  Lo.-ds  of  the  Admiralty  took 
alarm  at  the  po,-'i'  io,  or  even  probable,  consequences 
of  this  excessive  heroism,  and  ordered  the  North  Star 
store-ship,  under  command  of  Mr.  James  Saunders,  to 
get  ready  with  all  speed  to  take  out  instructions  and 
supplies  to  the  expedition.  Iler  prime  object  was  to 
be  the  replenishing  of  the  expedition's  stock  of  pro- 
visions, and  the  enjoining  of  the  Investigator  not  to 
return  to  England  in  the  way  Sir  James  C.  Ross  had 
indicated,  but  to  remain  in  company  with  the  Enter- 
prise ;  and  if  the  North  Star  should  not  succeed  in 
promptly  fulfilling  this  object,  she  was  instructed  to 
land  the  supplies  at  the  furthest  prominent  point  she 
could  readily  reach,  and  by  all  means  to  keep  hersolf 


SIR  J.    C,   RUSSS  EXPEDITION. 


237 


!n  miles 
:ho  com- 
structcd 
lit ;  and 
iiitoring- 
^hilo  the 
[new  acre 
were  to 
3  eastern 
:;ross   Sir 
nd  ;    and 
he  coasts 

1  of  May, 
A  letter 
lie  Danish 
y,  statin*^' 
near  Port 
Sir   John 
estigator 
irch  in  the 
i)lty  took 
icqnences 
orth  Star 
indcrs,  to 
tions  and 
t  was  to 
of  pro- 
r  not  to 
iRoss  had 
ho   Enter- 
liccced   in 
ucted   to 
point  she 
[p  hers'/i** 


free  from  besetment  in  the  ice,  and  to  return  hofore  the 
close  of  the  season.  She  sailed  from  the  Thames  on  the 
IGth  of  May,  1849,  and  did  not  return  that  season  ;  and 
nhe  also  became  a  subject  of  much  public  anxiety. 

The  Enterprise  and  the  Investigator  left  Upernavik 
on  the  13tli  <  f  July,  JHbS  ;  and,  alter  running  through 
ill'  Intricaie  aichipelago  near  the  mainland,  they  arrived, 
on  the  2()th,  oil'  (/ape  Shackleton,  and  there  made  fast 
to  a  grounded  iceberg.  Tliey  were  joined  there  by  the 
Lord  Gambier  whaling-ship,  whose  master  informed  them 
that,  having  run  to  the  southward  with  the  rest  of  the 
whalers,  and  having  atirefully  examined  the  pack,  he 
had  found  it  all  so  close,  compact,  and  heavy,  as  not  to 
afford  the  slightest  hope  of  any  ship  being  able  to  find 
an  opening  through  it  that  season  to  the  west.  He  had, 
therefore,  returned  to  the  north,  and  expected  that  all 
the  other  whalers  would  soon  Ibllow  him  ;  and  he  had  a 
very  confident  ho})e  that  he  should  get  round  the  north 
end  of  the  pack  by  the  first  week  of  August.  But  "  the 
middle  ice,"  as  this  great  barrier  along  BalTin's  Ba}'  -j 
called,  has  ever  put  the  wits  of  the  whale-fisliors  to  thr 
severest  trial.  The  earliest  date  at  which  it  has  buon 
passed  in  any  year  is  the  12th  of  June  ;  th<>  latest  at 
which  it  has  been  found  impassable  is  the  9th  of  Septem- 
ber :  and  the  average  date  of  the  first  ship  of  the  season 
passing  it  is  about  the  13th  of  July.  But  in  1848  it 
could  be  passed  only  with  extreme  difficulty,  and  only 
by  far  rounding  to  the  north  ;  and,  as  was  afterwards 
ascertained,  the  first  and  almost  only  vessel  which  then 
got  past  it  was  the  Prince  of  Wales,  of  Hull,  on  the  (Jth 
of  August,  about  latitude  75°. 

Early  on  the  morning  of  the  2Ist  of  July,  the  expedi- 
tion cast  ofl"  from  the  iceberg,  and  began  to  tow  their 
way  through  loose  streams  of  ice  tijwtu'd  some  lanes  of 
vatcr  in  the  distance.     But  both  on  this  day  and  on  the 


^ff ' 


w^ 


i 

i 


V 


238 


SIR  J.   C.   ROSS'S  EXPEDITION. 


following  few  days  they  made  slow  progress,  and  were 
often  in  dilTiculty.  On  the  morning  of  the  20th,  when 
they  were  olfthe  Three  Islands  of  JJallin,  in  latitude  Y]° 
north,  at  the  clearing  away  of  a  fog,  they  saw  the  Lord 
Ganibier  at  some  distance,  standing  under  all  sail  to  the 
southward  —  the  unusually  bad  state  of  the  ice  having 
overturned  her  master's  hopes,  and  altered  liis  purpose. 
They  pursued  their  course  northward  amid  much  per 
plexity ;  and,  though  still  fully  expecting  to  bore  their 
way  through  tlie  pack,  they  were  so  excessively  retarded 
by  calms  and  barriers,  as  soon  to  lose  all  hope  of  being 
able  to  accomplish  any  considerable  part  of  their  mission 
before  the  setting  in  of  winter.  They  spared  no  exer- 
tions, but  forced  a  progress,  and  even  drove  on  at  the 
expense  of  danger. 

On  the  20th  of  August,  during  a  strong  breeze  from 
the  north-oast,  the  ships,  under  all  sail,  bored  through 
a  moderately  thick  pack  of  ice,  studded  with  perilously 
large  masses  ;  and  they  sustained  severe  shocks,  yet, 
hapi)ily,  did  not  receive  any  serious  damage.  They 
gained  the  open  water  on  the  afternoon  of  that  day,  in 
latitude  1.51°  north,  and  longitude  68°  west,  and  then 
steered  direct  for  Pond's  Bay.  That,  as  is  well  known, 
is  the  grand  scene  of  the  whale-fishery  ;  and  thither  the 
expedition  went  to  inquire  of  any  whaler's  crew  who 
might  have  got  across  to  the  west,  and  also  of  the 
Esquimaux  who  annually  visit  that  locality,  whether 
they  had  seen  anything  of  the  missing  adventurers.        ' 

On  the  22d  of  August  they  approached  the  shore, 
about  ten  miles  south  of  Pond's  Bav,  and  saw"  the  main 
pack  so  closely  pressed  home  to  the  land,  some  three  or 
four  miles  further  south,  as  to  leave  no  room  for  ships 
<»r  boats  to  pass.  They  next  stood  in  to  the  bay,  and 
pauseu  within  half  a  mile  of  the  points  on  which  the 
Esquimaux  are  known  to  have  their  summer  residences  ; 


-m- 


SIR  J.  C.    ROSS'S  EXPEDITION. 


239 


and  they  fired  guns  every  lialf-liour,  and  closely  exam- 
ined every  part  of  the  shore  with  their  glasses,  but  did 
not  get  sight  of  a  single  human  being.  They  then  went 
slowly  to  the  northward,  and  sometimes  could  not  hohl 
their  own  with  the  current,  and  always  kept  so  close  to 
the  land  that  neither  boats  nor  persons  could  escape 
their  notice,  yet  still  were  unsuccessful. 

On  the  26Lh  they  arrived  oft'  Possession  Bay,  at  the 
south  side  of  the  entrance  of  Lancaster  Sound.  A  party 
there  went  ashore  to  search  for  traces  of  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin having  touched  at  tnat  general  point  of  rendezvous, 
but  they  found  nothing  except  a  paper  recording  the 
visit  of  Sir  Edward  Parry,  in  1819.  The  expedition  now 
sailed  along  the  coast  of  Lancaster  Sound,  kecjjing  close 
in-shore,  scrutinizing  all  the  seaboard  both  from  the 
deck  and  from  the  mast-head,  and  fully  expecting  every 
hour  to  see  those  of  whom  they  were  in  search.  Every 
day  they  threw  overboard,  from  each  sliii),  a  cask  con- 
taining papers  of  information  of  all  their  proceedings  ; 
and  in  every  fog  they  periodically  fired  guns,  in  every 
time  of  darkness  they  burned  rockets  and  blue  lights, 
and  at  all  times  they  kept  the  ships  umler  such  easy 
sail  that  any  boat  seeing  the  signals  might  have  reached 
them.  The  drift  of  the  information  in  thoycasks  told  the 
missing  adventurers  that  no  assistance  could  be  given 
them  at  Pond's  Bay,  or  anywhere  else  on  the  west  coast 
of  Baffin's  Bay  ;  that  the  Entarprise  and  the  Investi- 
gator were  on  their  way  to  form  a  depot  '  f  provisions 
at  Port  Leopold  ;  and  that,  if  the  adventurers  would 
go  on  to  that  place,  they  would  either  find  one  of  the 
ships  there,  or  see,  ah)ng  with  the  provisions,  a  notice 
of  where  she  might  be  found. 

On  the  1st  of  September  the  expedition  arrived  oft" 
(^'ape  York,  at  the  east  side  of  the  entritnco  of  Prince 
Regent's  Inlet.     A  party  was  there  sout  ashore,  under 


ii 


240 


SIR  J.  C.  ROSS'S  EXPEDITION. 


very  difficult  circnmstancos,  to  seek  for  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin's company,  or  for  traces  of  thorn,  and  to  set  up  a 
conspicuous  mark,  with  a  paper  containing?  similar  in- 
formation to  that  in  the  casks.  From  Cppo  York  the 
expedition  stood  over  toward  North-East  Cape,  till  they 
came  to  the  edge  of  a  pack  about  fourteen  miles  broad, 
lying  in  the  way  to  Leopold  Island,  and  too  dense  fur 
them  to  penetrate.  They  wished  to  get  with  all  possi- 
ble speed  to  Port  Leopold,  to  fulfil  the  promise  made  in 
their  notices,  and  were  glad  to  observe  that  the  pack 
which  now  arrested  them  was  still  in  motion,  and  might 
be  expected  soon  to  go  to  pieces  under  some  favorable 
change.  But,  that  no  available  time  might  be  spent  in 
inaction,  they  stood  away,  in  the  mean  time,  to  the 
north  shore  of  Barrow's  Strait,  to  examine  its  numer- 
ous inlets,  and  to  seek  for  a  retreat  harbor.  They 
thoroughly  explored  Maxwell  Bay,  and  several  smaller 
indentations;  and  they  got  so  near  the  entrance  of  Wel- 
lington Channel  as  to  see  that  it  was  firmly  and  impen- 
etrably barred  from  side  to  side  by  ice,  wliicli  had  not 
been  broken  up  that  season.  Even  Barrow's  Strait  was 
embarrassed  by  a  greater  quantity  of  ice  than  had  ever 
before  been  seen  in  it  at  the  same  period  of  the  year. 

They  now  stood  to  the  south-west  to  seek  for  a  har- 
bor near  Cape  Rennell  :  but  they  found  a  heavy  body 
of  ice  extending  from  the  west  of  Cornwallis's  Island,  in 
a  compact  mass,  to  Leopold  Island.  They  coasted  along 
this  pack  during  stormy  and  foggy  weather,  and  had 
difficulty  during  the  nights  in  keeping  the  ships  fioiu 
being  beset.  With  the  thermometer  every  night  at  15°, 
young  ice  formed  so  rapidly,  and  became  so  thick,  as  to 
defeat  all  th(>ir  efforts  to  pass  through  some  of  even  the 
looser  streams.  Yet,  after  several  days  of  anxious  and 
ardnouH  toil,  thoug-h  the  pack  still  lingered  about  Leo- 
pold Island  and   North-East  Capo,  they  succeeded  in 


SIR  J.  C.  ROSS'S  EXPEDITION. 


241 


getting  through  it,  and  entered  the  harbor  of  Port  Leo- 
pold on  the  11th  September  ;  and,  had  they  not  got  in 
on  that  day,  they  would  not  have  got  in  at  all  ;  for,  on 
the  following  night,  the  main  pack  came  close  home 
to  the  land,  and  completely  sealed  the  mouth  of  the 
harbor. 

They  were  happy  in  having  reached  Port  Leopold, 
both  for  their  own  sake  and  for  the  sake  of  their  mis- 
sion. They  had  doubted  wliotlier  the  anchorage  would 
be  good  ;  but  they  found  it  excellent,  and  saw  at  onco 
that  there  could  not  bo  a  bettor  wintering  place  for  the 
Investigator.  Nor  could  there  have  been  a  litter  local- 
ity for  making  a  grand  deposit  of  provisions,  and 
preparing  a  temporary  retreat  for  any  of  Sir  John 
Franklin's  company  who  might  be  entangled  among  the 
intricacies  of  the  archipelago.  Port  Leopold  is  situ- 
ated at  the  junction  of  the  four  great  channels  of  Lan- 
caster Sound,  Barrow's  Strait,  Wellington  Channel,  and 
Prince  Regent's  Inlet,  and  lies  closely  adjacent  to  any 
route  which  Sir  Johii  Franklin  could  have  been  likely  to 
pursue  in  the  event  of  his  having  had  to  retrogress  from 
the  vicinity  of  Cape  Walker  ;  so  that  a  lodgment  in  it 
by  the  present  expedition  could  scarcely  escape  the 
notice  of  any  of  Sir  John's  company  who  might  happen 
to  be  proceeding  from  any  part  whatever  of  the  archi- 
pelago toward  Baffin's  Bay. 

An  effort  was  made  to  bring  the  Enterprise  out,  with 
the  view  of  her  going  westward  to  some  harbor  nearer 
Cape  Walker.  But  she  was  irretrievably  ice-bound. 
The  pack  which  closed  the  harbor's  mouth  never  once 
afforded  a  chance  for  the  egress  of  even  a  boat ;  and 
across  the  isthmus,  as  far  as  could  be  discerned  from  the 
neighboring  heights,  the  same  extensive  mass  of  heavy 
hurnmocky  ice,  which  repelled  and  limited  the  expedi- 
tion's movements  before  entering,  remained  imniovable, 

21 


flifl 


242 


SIR  J.  C.  ROSS'S  EXPEDITION. 


and  formed  a  firm  barrier  all  the  way  over  to  the 
shore  of  North  Somerset.  Even  if  the  Enterprise  had 
got  out,  she  could  not  have  proceeded  far  ;  and  in  all 
probability  would  cither  have  been  perilously  beset  in 
the  pack,  or  conipcUed  to  sail  away  from  it  to  England. 
On  the  I'ith  October,  therefore,  the  two  ships  wei*  laid 
fast  in  their  wintering  position,  within  two  hundred 
yards  of  each  other. 

The  earliest  days  after  entering  the  harbor  were  de- 
voted to  the  landing  of  a  good  supply  of  provision8 
upon  Whaler  Foint,  In  this  service  the  steam-launch 
proved  of  most  eminent  value,  not  only  c.irrying  a  large 
cargo  herself  but  towing  two  deeply-laden  cutters  at 
the  rate  of  four  or  five  knots  through  the  sheet  of  ice 
which  then  covered  the  harbor,  and  which  no  boat, 
unaided  by  steam,  could  have  penetrated  beyond  her 
own  length.  The  crews  spent  the  dead  of  winter  in  a 
similar  manner  to  those  of  former  Arctic  expeditions. 
But  they  probably  felt  much  depressed  by  thinking  on 
the  fate  of  those  whom  they  had  been  unsuccessfully 
seeking,  and  they  had  to  contend  against  a  rigorous 
cold,  prolonged  unusually  far  into  the  spring ;  so  that, 
though  they  had  more  comforts,  better  appliances,  and 
much  richer  fruits  of  experience,  than  the  crews  of  Sir 
Edward  Parry's  and  Sir  John  Ross's  ships,  they  were 
not  by  any  means  so  healthy.  During  the  winter  a 
great  many  white  foxes  were  taken  alive  in  traps,  and, 
as  they  are  well  known  to  travel  great  distances  in 
search  of  food,  they  were  fitted  with  copper  collars, 
containing  engraved  notice,:,  jf  the  position  of  the  ships 
and  depots  of  provisions,  and  then  set  at  liberty,  in  the 
hope  that  they  would  be  caught  by  the  crews  of  the 
Erebus  and  the  Terror, 

In  April  and  the  early  part  of  May  short  journeys 
were  made  to  deposit  small  stores  of  provisions  west- 


SIR  J.  C    ROSS'S   EXPEPITION. 


243 


to  the 
rise  bad 
1(1  ill  all 
beset  in 
Fingland. 
^vei'  laid 

bundred 

were  de- 
irovisions 
irn-launch 
ig  a  large 
cutters  at 
eet  of  ice 
no  boat, 
3yond  ber 
vinter  in  a 
ipcditions. 
linking  on 
ccessfully 
rigorous 
;  80  tbat, 
inccf^,  and 
3WS  of  Sir 
|thcy  were 
winter  a 
Iraps,  and, 
litances  in 
^r  collars, 
'  tbc  sbips 
rty,  in  tbe 
|ws  of  the 

journeys 
ions  west- 


ward of  Capo  Clarence,  and  southward  of  Capo  Sop- 
pings.  On  the  I5th  May  a  party  of  tbirtoon,  headed  by 
Sir  James  C.  Ross,  and  taking  witii  thorn  forty  days' 
provision,  and  a  supply  of  clotlics,  blankets,  ami  other 
necessaries,  on  two  sledges,  started  on  an  exploratory 
journey  to  the  south.  Tboy  were  accompanied  for  live 
days  by  a  fatigue  party  of  nearly  thirty,  under  Cai)tain 
Bird.  Tbeir  object  was  to  penetrate  as  far  as  possible 
in  the  direction  which  Sir  John  Franklin  was  instructed 
first  to  pursue,  and  to  make  a  close  scrutiny  of  every 
bay  and  inlet  in  which  any  ships  tiiight  have  found 
shelter.  They  got  on  with  difficulty,  and  did  their  work 
with  much  toil,  yet  went  resolutely  forward. 

The  north  shore  of  North  Somerset  trends  slightly  to 
the  northward  of  west,  till  it  attains  its  highest  latitude, 
the  highest  latitude  of  continental  America,  a  few  miles 
beyond  Capo  Rennell ;  it  thence  trends  slightly  to  the 
southward  of  west  till  it  rounds  Cape  Bunny  ;  and  then 
it  suddenly  assumes  a  direction  nearly  due  south.  From 
high  land  adjacent  to  Capo  Bunny  tboy  obtained  a  very 
extensive  view,  and  observed  that  all  Wellington  Chan- 
nel on  the  north,  and  all  the  space  between  Capo  Bunny 
and  Cape  Walker  on  the  west,  wore  occupied  by  very 
heavy  hummocky  ice ;  but  that  the  frozen  expanse  south- 
ward, along  the  west  flank  of  North  Somerset,  was 
smoother.  They  proceeded  to  the  south,  tracing  all  the 
indentations  of  the  coast,  and  heroically  enduring  great 
exposure  and  fatigue,  but  not  without  the  pain  and 
dolav  of  several  of  their  number  becoming  useless  from 
lameness  and  debility.  Thoy  stopped  on  the  5th  of  June. 
They  were  then  too  weak  to  go  further,  and  had  con-' 
sumed  more  than  half  of  their  provisions  ;  and  thoy 
encamped  for  a  day's  rest,  preparatory  to  their  return. 

Their  brave  leader  and   two  of  the  men,   however, 
went  onward  to  a  vantage-ground  about  eight  or  nine 


lit 


<^, 


^f^^. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


lU 


■22 
2.0 


1.8 


U   IM 


I 


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V] 


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7 


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PholDgraphic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  1458^ 

(716)  872-4503 


? 


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i/. 


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i9 


^ 


6^ 


«)^ 


244 


SIR  J.  C.  ROSS'S  EXl'ELITION. 


inilos  distant.  This  extreme  point  of  the  journey  is  the 
western  extremity  of  a  small  high  peninsula,  situated  in 
latitude  12°  38'  north,  and  longitude  95°  40'  ./est.  The 
atmosphere  at  the  time  was  peculiarly  clear,  and  would 
have  carried  the  eye  to  land  of  an}'^  great  elevation  at 
the  distance  of  one  hundred  miles.  But  the  most  dis- 
tant visible  cape  in  the  direction  toward  Boothia  and 
Victoria  Land  was  not  further  off  than  fifty  miles,  and 
lay  nearly  due  south.  Several  small  bays  and  inlets 
intervened,  and  though,  perhaps,  not  forming  a  contin- 
uous sweep  of  the  sea,  they  prove  Prince  Regent's  Inlet 
at  Cresswell  and  Brentford  Bays  to  be  separated  from 
the  western  ocean  by  a  very  narrow  isthmus  —  a  dis- 
tinct natural  boundary  between  North  Somerset  and 
Boothia. 

The  party  resting  at  the  encampment  were  not  idle. 
Lieut.  McClintock,  who  headed  them,  took  some  mag- 
netic observations,  which  had  groat  value,  on  account 
of  the  near  vicinity  of  the  place  to  the  magnetic  pole. 
Two  of  the  men  pierced  the  ice,  and  found  it  to  be 
eight  feet  thick,  and  set  in  a  stick  for  ascertaining  the 
state  of  the  tides  ;  and  all  the  others  who  could  work 
erected  a  large  cairn,  into  which  was  put  a  copper 
cylinder,  containing  all  requisite  information  for  the 
guidance  of  any  of  Sir  John  Franklin's  company  who 
might  journey  along  that  coast.  The  time  for  expecting 
those  missing  ones  there  that  season,  on  the  supposition 
of  their  having  abandoned  their  ships  in  the  vicinity  of 
Melville  Island,  had  almost  or  altogether  passed.  The 
thaw  had  commenced,  the  suitable  conditions  for  travel- 
ling were  over,  and  the  present  explorers  had,  at  least, 
the  satisfaction  of  knowing  that  no  wanderers  from  the 
Erebus  and  the  Terror  then  lay  unheeded  or  perishing 
on  the  coast  of  North  Somerset. 

The  explorers  began  their  return  journey  on  the  6th 


SIR  J.  C.  ROSS'S  EXPEDITION. 


245 


June.  They  forced  their  way  through  various  difli- 
culties,  and  arrived  at  the  ships  on  the  23d.  Tliey 
were  so  worn  and  injured,  that  every  man  of  them,  from 
some  cause  or  other,  went  into  the  doctor's  hands  for 
two  or  three  weeks.  One  of  the  assistant  surgeons, 
too,  had  died  ;  several  men  of  both  crews  were  severely 
ailing ;  and  the  general  health  was  far  from  good. 

During  the  absence  of  the  large  exploring  party  in 
North  Somerset,  three  small  ones  were  despatched  by 
Captain  Bird  in  other  directions.  One,  under  the  com- 
mand of  Lieut.  Barnard,  went  to  the  north  shore  of 
Barrow's  Strait ;  another,  under  the  command  of  Lieut. 
Browne,  went  to  the  east  shore  of  Prince  Regent's 
Inlet ;  and  the  third,  under  the  command  of  Lieut.  Rob- 
inson, went  to  the  west  shore  of  that  inlet.  These 
parties  were  comparatively  a  short  time  away ;  yet 
all  —  especially  the  last,  who  penetrated  several  miles 
beyond  Fury  Beach  —  suffered  from  snow-blindness, 
sprained  ankles,  and  debility. 

Preparations  were  now  made  for  leaving  Port  Leo- 
pold. The  season  was  far  advanced,  and  a  strong 
desire  was  felt  to  have  the  ships  as  soon  as  possible  set 
free,  in  order  to  push  them  on  toward  the  west.  But 
something  further  was  first  done  to  extend  the  appli- 
ances of  the  place  as  a  refuge  for  the  missing  adven- 
turers. A  house  was  built  of  the  spare  spars  of  the 
ships,  and  covered  with  such  of  the  housing-cloths  as 
could  be  wanted.  The  depot  of  provisions  and  fuel 
was  raised  to  a  suflScient  quantity  to  serve  for  a 
twelvemonth.  And  the  Investigator's  steam-launch 
was  lengthened  seven  feet,  and  made  a  fine  vessel, 
capable  of  conveying  the  whole  of  Sir  John  Franklin's 
party  to  the  whale-ships.  .  > 

The  crews  were  ill  able  to  work  the  ships  out  of  the 
harbor,  and  to  set  them  once  more  before  the  breeze  ; 
21* 


Il 


246 


SIR  J.    C.   ROSS'S  EXPEDITION. 


but  they  went  with  a  will  to  the  task.  The  season  was 
far  advanced,  and  exceedingly  unpromising,  and  seemed 
clearly  to  demand  the  utmost  promptitude  and  strenu- 
ousness  of  exertion.  At  a  time  when  most  other  navi- 
gable parts  of  the  Arctic  seas  wore  open,  Port  Leopold 
continued  as  close  as  in  the  middle  of  winter.  Not  a 
foot  of  water  was  to  be  seen  on  the  surface  of  the  sur- 
rounding ice,  except  only  along  the  line  of  gravel  about 
the  harbor's  mouth  ;  and  small  prospect  existed  that 
any  natural  opening  would  occur.  The  crews  were 
obliged  to  cut  a  way  out  with  saws.  All  hands  that 
were  at  all  able  went  to  work,  and  made  a  canal  two 
miles  in  length,  and  sufficiently  wide  to  let  the  ships 
pass  outward  to  the  adjacent  sound.  They  did  not 
complete  this  till  the  15th  of  August,  and  then  had  the 
mortification  to  see  that  the  ice  to  seaward  remained,  to 
all  appearance,  as  firmly  fixed  as  in  the  winter.  But  it 
was  wasting  away  along  the  shores,  and  it  soon  broke 
up,  and  gave  promise  of  a  navigable  channel.  The 
ships  got  out  of  the  harbor  on  the  28th  of  August, 
exactly  one  fortnight  less  than  a  twelvemonth  from  the 
time  when  they  entered  it. 

They  proceeded  toward  the  north  shore  of  Barrow's 
Strait,  with  the  view  of  making  further  examination  of 
Wellington  Channel,  and  of  scrutinizing  the  coasts  t  nd 
inlets  westward  to  Melville  Island.  But  they  were 
arrested  about  twelve  miles  from  the  shore  by  fixed 
land-ice,  which  had  remained  unbroken  since  the  pre- 
vious season,  and  which  appeared  to  extend  away  to 
the  western  horizon  in  a  uniform  heavy  sheet.  They 
were  in  a  loose  pack,  struggling  with  blocks  and  streams 
as  they  best  cotild,  and  they  kept  hovering  about  the 
spot  which  afibrdod  the  greatest  probability  of  an  open- 
ing. But,  on  the  1st  of  September,  the  loose  pack  was 
suddenly  put  in  commotion  by  a  strong  wind,  and  it 


SIR  J.   C.   ROSS'S  EXPEDITION. 


247 


came  down  upon  them  and  beset  them.  During  two  or 
three  days  the  heavy  masses  at  times  severely  stj[ueezed 
them,  and  ridges  of  hummocks  were  tlirown  up  all 
around  them,  and  then  the  temperature  fell  nearly  to 
zero,  and  congealed  the  whole  body  of  ice  into  a  solid 
mass.  The  crew  of  the  Enterprise  were  unable,  for 
some  days,  to  unship  the  rudder,  and  when  at  last  they 
released  it,  by  means  of  the  laborious  operation  of  saw- 
ing away  the  hummocks  which  clove  to  the  stern,  they 
found  it  twisted  and  damaged  ;  and,  at  the  same  time, 
the  ship  was  so  much  strained  as  to  increase  the  leakage 
from  three  inches  in  a  fortnight  to  fourteen  inches  in  a 
day.  ... 

The  ice  now  remained  for  some  days  stationary.  The 
lighter  pieces  had  been  so  interlaced  and  imbricated  by 
pressure,  as  to  form  one  entire  sheet  across  the  whole 
width  of  Barrow's  Strait,  and  away  eastward  and  west- 
ward to  the  horizon  ;  and  all  the  blocks  and  strata  below 
them  were  so  firmly  cemented  by  the  extreme  severity 
of  the  temperature  as  to  seem  little  likely  to  break  up 
again  that  season.  The  ships  appeared  fixed  for  the 
winter  ;  and  who  could  tell  whether  they  might  not  be 
exposed  to  a  series  of  as  terrific  perils  as  those  which 
Bo  often  menaced  the  Terror  with  destruction  in  her 
awful  ice-voyage  of  1836  ? 

On  the  wind  shifting  to  the  west,  the  crews,  with  a 
mixture  of  hope  and  anxiety,  beheld  the  whole  body 
of  ice  beginning  to  drive  to  the  eastward,  at  the  rate 
of  eight  or  ten  miles  a  day.  They  made  all  possible 
efforts  to  help  themselves,  but  made  them  in  vain,  for 
no  human  power  could  have  moved  either  of  the  ships  a 
single  inch.  The  field  of  ice  which  held  them  fast  in 
its  centre  was  more  than  fifty  miles  in  circumference. 
It  carried  them  along  the  south  shore  of  Lancaster 
Sound,  and  then  went  down  the  west  side  of  BaflSn's 


248 


SIR  J.   C.   ROSS'S  EXPEDITION. 


i'  If    •  !' 


Bay,  till  they  were  abreast  of  Pond's  Bay,  and  there  it 
threatened  to  precipitate  them  on  a  barrier  of  icebergs. 
But,  just  in  the  very  crisis  of  tlieir  alarm,  it  was  rent, 
as  if  by  some  unseen  power,  into  innumerable  fragments, 
and  they  were  set  almost  miraculously  free. 

The  crews  sprang  from  despair  to  hope,  and  from 
inaction  to  energy.  All  sail  was  set,  and  warps  were 
run  out  from  each  quarter  to  work  the  ships  past  the 
heavy  floes.  The  Investigator  got  into  open  water  on 
the  24th,  and  the  Enterprise  on  the  25th.  "It  is  impos- 
sible," says  Ross,  "to  convey  any  idea  of  the  sensation 
we  experienced  when  we  found  ourselves  once  more  at 
liberty  ;  many  a  heart  poured  forth  its  praises  and 
thanksgivings  to  Almighty  God  for  this  unlocked  for 
deliverance."  The  harbors  of  Baffin's  Bay  were  now 
all  closed  by  ice,  and  the  course  to  the  west  was  barred 
by  the  pack  from  which  the  ships  had  just  been  liberated. 
The  expedition,  therefore,  had  no  alternative  but  to 
return  to  England,  and  they  arrived  off  Scarborough  on 
the  3d  of  November,  1849.  Thus  ended  the  third  of 
the  government  explorations  in  search  of  Sir  John 
Franklin. 

Lieutenant  Pullen,  who,  it  will  be  remembered,  was 
despatched  from  the  Plover  on  the  western  coast,  and 
ordered  to  extend  his  search  to  the  mouth  of  the  Mac- 
kenzie, ascended  that  river  and  reached  Fort  Simpson 
on  the  13th  of  October.  Here  he  wintered,  and,  while 
on  his  way  to  York  Factory,  the  following  spring,  re- 
ceived instructions  by  express  to  attempt  a  passage  in 
boats  across  the  sea  to  Melville  Island.  He  immediately 
hurried  back,  and,  on  being  supplied  with  four  thousand 
five  hundred  pounds  of  pemmica.i  and  jerked  venison 
by  Rae,  descended  the  Mackenzie.  The  season  of  1850 
proved  more  severe,  however,  than  that  of  the  previous 
year.     Pullen   found   the   sea,  from  the  Mackenzie  to 


SIR  J.  C.  ROSS'S  EXPEDITION. 


249 


Cape  Bathurst,  covereci  with  unbroken  ice,  a  small  chan- 
nel only  exiHting  in-shore,  through  which  he  threaded 
his  way  to  the  vicinity  of  the  cape.  Failing  in  finding 
a  passage  out  to  sea  to  the  north  of  Cape  Bathurst,  ho 
remained  in  its  vicinity,  watching  the  ice  for  an  open- 
ing, until  the  approach  of  winter  compelled  him  to 
return  to  the  Mackenzie.  lie  had  reached  the  sea  on 
the  22d  of  July,  a.id  he  did  not  quit  it  till  the  1st  of 
September.  As  he  ascended  the  Mackenzie,  ice  was 
driving  rapidly  down.  "  It  was  one  continued  drift  of 
ice  and  heavy  snow-storms."  lie  reached  Fort  Simp- 
son on  the  5th  of  October,  and  arrived  in  England  to 
take  command  of  the  North  Star,  and  join  the  expedition 
under  Sir  E.  Belcher. 


<\ui 

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o-* 

r. 

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'„ 

n-» 

r' 

-t^r 

)  1 :" iV 

i 

CHAPTER    XIII. 


- ' 

I 


'"fit;ii 


OPINIONS  IN  REQARD  TO  THE  FATE  OP  FBA:iKLm.  —  CLIMATE.  —  RESOURCES 
OP  GAME.  —  REWARDS  OFFERED.  —  RIJPORTS  FROM  WHALERS.  —  RE- 
NEWED SEARCHES. — COLLINSON  AND  m'cLURE. — RAE'S  INSTRUCTIONS. 
—  OTHEI'.  EXl'EDITLONS,  PUBLIC  AND  PRIVATE.  —  GRINNEI  l'S  EXPEDI- 
TION.  MEETING      IN      THE      ARCTIC      SEAS. TRACES     OP      FRANKLIN. 

GRAVES.  —  SLEDGING  PARTIES.  —  RETURN    HOME. 

I 

It  was  the  opinion  of  Sir  John  Richardson,  the  fornner 
companion  of  Franklin,  that  his  plans  were  to  shape  his 
course,  in  the  first  instance,  for  the  neighborhood  of 
Cape  Walker,  and  to  push  to  the  westward  in  that 
parallel ;  or,  if  that  could  not  be  accomplished,  to  make 
his  way  southwards,  to  the  channel  discovered  on  the 
north  coast  of  the  continent,  and  so  on  to  Behring's 
Strait ;  failing  success  in  that  quarter,  he  meant  to 
retrace  his  course  to  Wellington  Sound,  and  attempt  a 
passage  northwards  of  Parry's  Islands ;  and  if  foiled 
there  also,  to  descend  Regent's  Inlet,  and  seek  the 
passage  along  the  coast  discovered  by  TIessrs.  Dease 
and  Simpson. 

Captain  Fitzjames,  the  second  in  command  under  Sir 
John  Franklin,  was  much  inclined  to  try  the  passage 
northward  of  Parry's  Islands  ;  and  he  would,  no  doubt, 
endeavor  to  persuade  Sir  John  to  pursue  this  course,  if 
they  failed  to  the  southward.  In  a  priv^-te  letter  to 
Sir  John  Barrow,  dated  January,  1845,  Fitiyames  writes : 
"  It  does  not  appear  clear  to  me  what  led  Parry  down 
Prince  Regent  Inlet,  after  having  got  as  tar  as  Melville 
Island  before.     The  north-west  passage  is  certainly  to 


'  m 


FATE  OF  FRANKLIN. 


251 


be  gone  througli  by  Barrow's  Strait,  but  whether  south 
or  north  of  Parry's  Group,  remains  to  be  proved.  I  am 
for  going  north,  edging  north-west  till  in  longitude  14:0°, 
if  possible." 

Captain  Sir  John  Ross  records,  in  February,  1847,  his 
opinion  that  the  expedition  was  frozen  up  beyond  Mel- 
ville Island,  from  the  known  intentions  of  Sir  John 
Franklin  to  put  his  ships  into  the  drift-ice  at  the  western 
end  of  Melville  Island:  a  risk  which  was  deemed  in  the 
highest  degree  imprudent  by  Lieutenant  Parry  and  the 
oflicers  of  the  expedition  of  1819-20,  with  ships  of  a  less 
draughr  of  water,  and  in  every  respect  better  calculated 
to  sustain  the  pressure  of  the  ice,  and  other  dangers  to 
which  they  must  be  exposed.  The  expedition  certainly 
did  not  succeed  in  passing  Bchring's  Strait ;  and,  if  not 
totally  lost,  must  have  been  carried  by  the  drift-ice  to 
the  southward,  on  land  seen  at  a  great  distance  in  that 
direction,  from  which  the  accumulation  of  ice  behind 
them  would,  as  in  Ross's  own  case,  forever  prevent  the 
return  of  the  ships.  When  we  remember  with  what 
extreme  difficulty  Ross's  party  travelled  three  hundred 
miles  over  much  smoother  ice  after  they  abandoned  their 
vessel,  it  appears  very  doubtful  whether  Franklin  and 
his  men,  one  hundred  and  thirty-eight  in  number,  could 
possibly  travel  six  hundred  miles. 

In  the  contingency  of  the  ships  having  penetrated 
some  considerable  distance  to  the  south-west  of  Cape 
Walker,  an  laving  been  hampered  and  crushed  in  the 
narrow  channels  of  the  archipelago,  which  there  are 
reasons  for  believing  occupies  the  space  between  Victo- 
ria, Wollaston,  and  Banks's  Lands,  it  is  remarked  by 
Sir  John  Richardson,  that  such  accidents  among  ice  are 
seldom  so  sudden  but  that  the  boats  of  one  or  of  both 
ships,  with  provisions,  can  be  saved  ;  and,  in  such  an 
event,  the  survivors  would  either  return  to  LaucaBtor 


252 


KATE  OP  FRANKLIN. 


Strait,  or  mako  fur  the  continent,  according  to  their 
nearnesa. 

Colonel  Sabine  remarks,  in  a  letter  dated  Woolwich, 
6th  of  May,  1817  :  "It  was  Sir  John  Franklin's  inten- 
tion, if  foiled  at  one  point,  to  try,  in  HUCceHsion,  all  the 
probable  openings  into  a  more  navigable  part  of  the 
Polar  Sea.  Tiie  range  of  coaisi  Ir,  considerable  in  which 
memorials  of  the  ships'  progress  would  have  to  bo 
sought  for,  extending  from  Melville  Island,  in  the  west, 
to  the  great  sound  at  the  head  of  Baflin's  Bay,  in  the 
east." 

Admiral  Sir  Francis  Beaufort,  in  his  report  to  the  Lords 
Commissioners  of  the  Admiralty,  Nov.  24,  1849,  ob- 
oerves  :  "  Th^re  are  four  ways  only  in  which  it  is  likely 
that  the  Erebus  and  Terror  would  have  been  lost  —  by 
fire,  by  sunken  rocks,  by  storm,  or  by  being  crushed  be- 
tween two  fields  of  ice.  Both  vessels  would  scarcely  have 
taken  fire  together  ;  if  one  of  them  had  struck  on  a  rock, 
the  other  would  have  avoided  the  danger.  Storms  in 
those  narrow  seas,  encumbered  with  ice,  raise  no  swell, 
and  could  produce  no  such  disaster ;  and,  therefore,  by 
the  fourth  cause  alone  could  the  two  vessels  have  been 
at  once  destroyed  ;  and,  even  in  that  case,  the  crews 
would  have  escaped  upon  the  ice  —  as  happens  every 
year  to  the  whalers  ;  —  they  would  have  saved  their 
loose  boats,  and  reached  some  part  of  the  American 
shores.  As  no  traces  of  any  such  event  have  been 
found  on  any  part  of  those  shores,  it  may,  therefore,  be 
safely  aflSrmed  that  one  ship,  at  least,  and  both  the 
crews,  are  still  in  existence  ;  and,  therefore,  the  point 
where  they  now  are  is  the  great  matter  for  consid- 
eration, r  .1 

"  Their  orders  would  have  carried  them  towards  Mel- 
ville Island,  and  then  out  to  the  westward,  where  it  is 
therefore    probable   that  they   are  entangled   amongst 


m^ 


FATE   OF   FliANKLIN. 


258 


islaiidH  and  ice.  For,  should  thoy  have  been  arrcHtod 
at  Hoiiic  intermediate  place,  —  for  iiiHtanco,  Capo  VValk«'r, 
or  at  one  of  the  northern  chain  of  islands,  —  they  would, 
undoubtedly,  in  the  course  of  the  three  folhAvin^  years, 
have  contrived  some  method  of  sending-  notices  of 
their  position  to  the  shores  of  North  Somerset  or  to 
Harrow's  Strait. 

"  If  they  had  reached  much  to  the  southward  of 
Baidvs's  Land,  they  would  surely  have  communicated  with 
the  tribes  on  Mackenzie  River  ;  and  if,  failing  to  get  to  the 
westward  or  southward,  they  had  returned  with  the 
intention  of  penetrating  through  Wellington  Channel, 
they  would  have  detached  })artie8  on  the  ice  towards 
liarrow's  Strait,  in  order  to  have  deposited  statements 
of  their  intentions.  The  general  conclusion,  therefore, 
remains  that  they  are  still  locked  up  in  the  .irchipelago 
to  the  westward  of  Melville  Island." 

Captain  Sir  George  Back,  in  a  letter  to  the  Secretary 
of  the  Admiralty,  December  Ist,  1849,  says  ;  "  You 
will  be  pleased,  sir,  to  impress  on  my  Lords  Commis- 
sioners that  I  wholly  reject  all  and  every  idea  of  any 
attempts  on  the  part  of  Sir  John  Franklin  to  send  boats 
or  detachments  over  the  ice  to  any  point  of  the  mainland 
eastward  of  the  Mackenzie  River,  because  I  can  say, 
from  experience,  that  no  toil-worn  aad  exhausted  party 
could  have  the  least  chance  of  existence  by  going 
there.  On  the  other  hand,  from  my  knowledge  of  Sir 
John  Franklin,  —  having  been  three  times  on  discovery 
together,  —  I  much  doubt  if  he  would  quit  his  ship  at 
all,  except  in  a  boat ;  for  any  attempt  to  cross  the  ice 
a  long  distance  on  foot  woulc  be  tempting  death  ;  and 
it  is  too  laborious  a  task  to  sledge  far  over  such  an 
uneven  surface  as  those  regions  generally  present.  That 
great  mortality  must  have  occurred,  and  that  one  ship 
may  be  lost,  are  greatly  to  be  feared :  and,   as  on  all 

22 


254 


FATE  OF  FRANKLIN. 


former  expeditions,  if  the  survivors  are  paralyzed  by 
the  dcproHsiiip  attacks  of  scurvy,  it  woul  i  then  bo 
impossiblo  for  them,  however  desirous  they  mi^ht  be,  to 
leave  the  siiip,  which  must  thus  become  their  last  most 
anxious  abode. 

"  If,  however,  open  water  should  have  allowed  Sir 
John  Franklin  to  have  resorted  to  his  boats,  then  I  am 
persuaded  he  would  make  for  cither  th(;  Mackenzie 
River,  or,  which  is  far  more  likely,  from  the  almost  cer- 
tainty he  must  have  felt  of  finding  provision,  Cap(? 
Clarence  and  Fury  Point.  1  am  aware  that  the  whole 
chances  of  life,  in  this  painful  case,  depend  on  food  ;  but 
when  1  reflect  on  Sir  John  Franklin's  former  extraor- 
dinary preservation  under  miseries  and  trials  of  the  most 
severe  description,  living  often  on  scraps  of  old  leather 
and  other  refuse,  I  cannot  despair  of  his  finding  the 
means  to  prolong  existence  till  aid  be  happily  sent 
him." 

In  regard  to  the  advantages  of  an  exploration  by  the 
way  of  Behring's  Strait,  Sir  John  Richardson  writes  : 

"  The  climate  of  Arctic  America  improves  in  a  sensi- 
ble manner  with  an  increase  of  western  longitude. 
On  the  Mackenzie,  on  the  135th  meridian,  the  sum- 
mer is  warmer  than  in  any  district  of  the  continent 
in  the  same  parallel ;  and  it  is  still  finer,  and  the 
vegetation  more  luxuriant,  on  the  banks  of  the  Yucon, 
on  the  150th  meridian.  This  superiority  of  climate 
leads  me  to  infer  that  ships  well  fortified  against  drift- 
ice  will  find  the  navigation  of  the  Arctic  seas  more 
practicable  in  its  western  portion  than  it  has  been  found 
to  the  eastward.  This  inference  is  supported  by  my 
own  personal  experience,  as  far  as  it  goes.  I  met  with 
no  ice  in  the  month  of  August,  on  my  late  voyage,  till  I 
attained  the  123d  meridian,  and  which  I  was  led,  from 


.Ji.;*.--- 


FATE  OF  FRANKLIN. 


255 


that  circumstance,  to  suppose  coiiiculcd  with  the  west- 
ern limits  of  Parry's  Archipelago. 

"The  greater  facility  of  navigating  from  the  west  has 
been  powerfully  advocated  by  others  on  f)rnier  occa- 
sions ;  and  the  chief,  perhaps  the  only  reason  why  the 
attempt  to  penetrate  the  I'olar  Sea  from  that  quarter 
has  not  been  resumed  since  the  time  of  Cook  is,  that 
the  length  of  the  previous  voyage  to  Behring's  Strait 
would  considerably  diminish  the  store  of  provisions ; 
but  the  facilities  of  obtaining  supplies  in  the  Pacific  are 
now  80  augmented,  that  this  objection  has  no  longer  the 
same  force." 

It  was  urged  that,  though  the  crews  of  the  Erebus 
and  the  Terror  had  provisions  with  them  for  only  throe 
years,  they  could  make  these  serve,  by  reduced  allow- 
ance, for  a  somewhat  longer  period,  and  would  in  all 
probability  obtain  large  additions  to  them  by  means  of 
their  guns.  The  Arctic  regions,  far  from  being  so  d(?s- 
titute  of  animal  life  as  might  be  supposed  from  the  bleak 
and  inhospitable  character  of  the  climate,  are  proverbial 
for  the  boundless  profusion  of  various  species  of  the 
animal  kingdom,  which  are  to  be  met  with  in  diflferent 
localities  during  a  great  part  of  the  year. 

The  air  is  often  darkened  by  innumerable  flocks  of 
Arctic  and  blue  gulls,  the  ivory  gull,  or  snow-bird,  the 
kittiwake,  the  fulmar  petrel,  snow-geese,  terns,  coons, 
dovekies,  &c.  The  cetaceous  animals  comprise  the 
great  Greenland  whale,  the  sea-unicorn,  or  narwhal, 
the  white  whale,  or  beluga,  the  morse,  or  walrus,  and 
the  seal.  There  are  also  plenty  of  porpoises  occasion- 
ally to  be  met  with  ;  and,  although  these  animals  may 
not  be  the  best  of  food,  yet  they  can  be  eaten.  Of  the 
land  animals,  we  may  instance  the  polar  bear,  the  musk- 
ox,  the  reindeer,  the  Arctic  fox,  and  wolves. 

Parry  obtained  nearly  four  thousand  pounds'  weight 


256 


FATE  or  FRANKLIN. 


V 


i; 


of  animal  food  during  his  winter  residence  at  Melville 
Island  ;  Ross  nearly  the  same  quantity  from  birds  alone, 
when  wintering  at  Port  Leopold. 

Sir  John  Richardson,  speaking  of  the  amount  of  food 
to  be  obtained  in  the  polar  region,  says  :  "  Deer  migrate 
over  the  ice  in  the  spring  from  the  main  shore  to  Vic- 
toria and  Wollaston  Lands  in  large  herds,  and  return 
in  the  autumn.  These  lands  are  also  the  breeding- 
places  of  vast  flocks  of  snow-geese  ;  so  that,  with  ordi- 
nary skill  in  hunting,  a  large  supply  of  food  might  bo 
procured  on  their  shores,  in  the  months  of  June, 
July,  and  August.  Seals  are  also  numerous  in  those 
seas,  and  are  easily  shot,  their  curiosity  rendering  them 
a  ready  prey  to  a  boat-party."  In  these  ways,  and  by 
fishing,  the  stock  of  provisions  might  be  greatly  aug. 
mented ;  and  we  have  the  recent  example  of  Mr.  Rae, 
who  passed  a  severe  winter  on  the  very  barren  shores 
of  Repulse  Bay,  with  no  other  fuel  than  the  withered 
tufts  of  a  herbaceous  andromada,  and  maintained  a 
numerous  party  on  the  spoils  of  the  chase  alone  for  a 
whole  year. 

With  an  empty  stomach  the  power  of  resisting  exter- 
nal cold  is  greatly  impaired  ;  but  when  the  process  of 
digestion  h  '^oing  on  vigorously,  even  with  compara- 
tively scanty  clothing,  the  heat  of  the  body  is  preserved. 
There  is,  in  the  winter  time,  in  high  latitudes,  a  craving 
for  fat  or  oleaginous  food  ;  and  for  such  occasions  the 
flesh  of  seals,  walruses,  or  bears,  forms  a  useful  article 
of  diet.  Captain  Cook  says  that  the  walrus  is  a  sweet 
and  wholesome  article  of  food.  Whales  and  seals  would 
also  furnish  light  and  fuel.  The  necessity  for  increased 
food  in  very  cold  weather  is  not  so  great  when  the 
people  do  not  work. 

In  March,  1848,  the  British  Admiralty  announced 
their  intention  of  rewarding  the  crews  of  any  whaling- 


REWARDS  OFFERED. 


257 


ships  that  brought  accurate  information  of  the  missing 
expedition,  with  the  sum  of  one  liundred  guineas  or 
more,  according  to  circumstances.  Lady  Franklin,  also, 
about  the  same  time  offered  rewards  of  two  thousand 
and  three  thousand  pounds,  to  be  distributed  among  the 
owner,  oflBcers,  and  crew,  discovering  and  affording 
relief  to  her  husband,  or  making  extraordinary  exertions 
for  the  above  object,  and,  if  required,  bringing  Sir  John 
Franklin  and  his  party  to  England. 

On  the  23d  of  March,  1849,  the  British  government 
offered  a  reward  of  twenty  thousand  pounds  "to  such 
private  ship,  or  by  distribution  among  such  private 
ships,  or  to  any  exploring  party  or  parties,  of  any  coun- 
try, as  might,  in  the  judgment  of  the  Board  of  Admiralty, 
have  rendered  efficient  assistance  to  Sir  John  Franklin, 
his  ships,  or  their  crews,  and  might  have  contributed 
directly  to  extricate  them  from  the  ice."  This,  also, 
was  meant  mainly  for  the  whalers,  but  was  not  pro- 
rnulged  till  most  of  them  had  sailed,  and  had  no  adapta- 
tion to  compensate  owners  and  masters  and  crews  pro- 
portionately to  their  losses  on  the  fishery,  and,  there- 
fore, did  not  produce  any  effect. 

In  the  spring  of  1849  Mr.  Parker,  master  of  the 
whaling-ship  Truelove,  carried  out  from  Lady  !  ranklin 
a  supply  of  provisions  and  coals  for  the  possible  use  of 
the  missing  expedition,  and  landed  them  on  the  con- 
spicuous promontory  of  Gape  Hay,  on  the  south  side  of 
Lancaster  Sound. 

In  1849  Dr.  Goodsir,  brother  of  the  assistant  surgeon 
of  the  Erebus,  embarked  in  the  whaling-ship  Advice,  of 
Dundee,  on  her  annual  trip  to  Baffin's  Bay,  in  the  hope 
that  he  might  get  early  intelligence  of  the  missing  expe- 
dition. Mr.  William  Penny,  the  master  of  the  Advice, 
was  well  known  for  enterprise  and  energy,  and  had 
made  strenuous  efforts,  in  1834,  to  assist  Sir  John  Ross 

90* 


258 


COLLINSON  AND  M'CLURE. 


and  his  party,  and  now  felt  fervid  and  generous  zeal  to 
be  useful  in  the  affair  of  Sir  John  Franklin.  They  pro- 
ceeded in  the  ordinary  manner  of  a  whaling  cruise,  yet 
penetrated  into  Lancaster  Sound,  and  proposed  to  go  as 
far  as  Prince  Regent's  Inlet ;  but  were  stopped,  on  the 
4th  of  August,  by  a  firm,  compact  barrier,  extending 
quite  across,  in  crescentic  outline,  from  Cape  York,  on 
the  south,  to  the  vicinity  of  Barnet's  Inlet,  on  the  north. 
They  were  only  seven  days  within  sight  of  the  shores  of 
Lancaster  Sound,  and  saw  few  other  parts  of  them  than 
such  as  had  been  closely  scrutinized  by  the  Enterprise 
and  the  Investigator ;  yet  they  searched  them  with  a  keen 
eye,  and  deposited  on  them  several  conspicuous  notices. 

The  demanu  for  new  researches  now  became  pressing. 
Three  great  divisions  of  search  were  adopted.  These 
corresponded,  in  general  sphere  and  character,  to  the 
three  primary  searching  expeditions  of  1848.  One  was 
marine,  by  way  of  Behring's  Strait ;  another  was  over- 
land, to  the  central  northern  coasts  ;  and  the  third  was 
marine,  by  way  of  Baffin's  Bay, 

The  ships  Enterprise  and  Investigator  were  refitted 
with  all  possible  speed,  to  go  round  South  America,  and 
up  to  Behring's  Strait.  Captain  Richard  Collinson  was 
put  in  command  of  the  Enterprise,  and  Commander 
M'Clure,  who  had  served  as  first  lieutenant  of  the  Enter- 
prise in  the  recent  expedition  under  Sir  James  C.  Ross, 
was  put  in  command  of  the  Investigator.  The  ships 
were  provisioned  for  three  years,  and  supplied  with  bal- 
loons, blasting  appliances,  ice-saws,  and  many  other 
contrivances  for  aiding  their  movements  and  research. 
Each,  also,  was  provided  with  a  pointed  piece  of  mech- 
anism, about  fourteen  pounds  in  weight,  attached  by  a 
tackle  to  the  end  of  the  bowsprit,  suited  to  be  worked 
from  the  deck,  and  capable,  by  means  of  a  series  of  sud- 
den falls,  to  break  ice  of  any  ordinary  thickness,  and 


COLLINSON  AND  M'CLURE. 


259 


open  a  passage  through  a  floe  or  light  pack.  The  ships, 
though  dull  sailers,  were  the  only  ones  fit  for  the  ser- 
vice which  could  be  got  promptly  ready  ;  and,  in  order 
to  expedite  their  progress,  steamers  were  put  in  requisi- 
tion to  tow  them  in  more  than  one  part  of  their  voyage, 
and  particularly  through  the  Magellan  Strait,  the  Wel- 
lington Channel,  and  on  to  Valparaiso. 

They  sailed  from  Plymouth  Sound  on  the  20th  of  Jan- 
uary, 1850.  The  captains  had  minute  orders  for  their 
guidance  on  the  way  to  Behring's  Strait,  and  with  ref- 
erence to  the  previous  expeditions  of  the  Herald  and  the 
Plover  ;  and  were  also  furnished  with  memoranda,  sug- 
gestions, and  conditional  instructions,  for  their  aid  in  the 
polar  seas  ;  but,  with  the  exception  of  two  or  three 
general  commands,  bearing  comprehensively  on  the 
grand  object  of  their  mission,  they  were  left  almost 
entirely  to  their  own  discretion,  after  they  should  enter 
the  ice.  They  were  told  to  reap  all  the  advantage  they 
could  from  the  experience  of  the  Herald  and  the  Plover ; 
to  form  a  depot,  or  point  of  succor,  for  any  party  to  fall 
back  upon ;  to  retain  the  Plover,  and  get  her  replen- 
ished from  the  Herald,  and  send  her  a  wintering  and 
cruising  on  nearly  her  former  ground  till  the  autumn  of 
1853  ;  to  keep  the  Enterprise  and  the  Investigator 
steadily  in  each  other's  company,  and  onward  as  far  as 
safety  would  permit  to  the  east ;  to  cultivate  the  friend- 
ship of  the  Esquimaux,  and  induce  them  to  carry  mes- 
sages to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  settlements  ;  to 
throw  occasionally  overboard  tin  cylinders  containing 
information,  and  to  use  every  precaution  against  getting 
into  any  position  which  might  possibly  hold  them  fast 
till  their  provisions  should  become  exhausted. 

Both  ships  made  a  comparatively  speedy  passage  to 
Behring's  Strait.  On  the  29th  of  July  the  Enterprise 
reached  the  western  end  of  the  Aleutian  Chain  ;  on  the 


260 


RAE'S  INSTRUCTIONS. 


11th  of  August  she  reached  the  island  of  St.  Lawrence  ; 
and  on  the  IGth  of  August  fell  in  with  the  ice.  But  the 
weather  was  then  so  unfavoruble,  and  tlie  ice  so  thick, 
that  Captain  CoUinson  abandoned  a  purpose  which  ho 
had  formed  to  attempt  to  penetrate  that  season  to  Cape 
Bathurst.  After  several  encounters  with  the  ice,  he 
reached  Grantley  Harbor,  and  there  found  the  Plover 
preparing  for  winter  quarters,  and  was  next  day  joined 
by  the  Herald.  On  consulting  with  Captains  Kellett 
and  Moore,  he  determined,  instead  of  wintering  in  the 
north,  to  proceed  to  Hong  Kong,  there  to  replenish  his 
provisions,  and  not  to  set  out  again  for  the  north  till  at 
least  the  first  of  April,  1851.  The  Investigator  was 
later  in  getting  through  th(3  Pacific  than  the  Enterprise  ; 
and  Commander  Moore,  of  the  Plover,  writing  at  sea,  in 
latitude  51°  26'  north,  and  longitude  112°  35'  west,  on 
the  20th  of  July,  gave  a  sketch  of  his  intended  opera- 
tions, and  said  that  no  apprehension  need  be  enter- 
tained about  his  safety  till  the  autumn  of  1854,  as  he 
had  on  board  full  provisions  of  every  kind  for  three  years 
after  the  first  of  September,  and  intended  to  issue,  in 
lieu  of  the  usual  rations,  whatever  food  could  be  obtained 
by  hunting  parties  from  the  ship. 

Dr.  Rae,  it  will  be  remembered,  was  left  by  Sir  John 
Richardson  to  attempt  to  overtake,  in  the  summer  of 
1849,  an  unaccomplished  part  of  the  objects  of  the  over- 
land expedition  of  1848.  This  had  special  reference  to 
the  examination  of  the  coasts  of  Victoria  Land  and  Wol- 
laston  Land  ;  and  now  that  Sir  John  Franklin's  ships 
were  believed  to  have  certainly  gone  beyond  Cape 
Walker,  and  to  have  probably  bored  their  way  south- 
westward  to  some  position  between  that  place  and  the 
mainland,  this  was  deemed  to  be  much  more  important 
than  before.  Early  in  1850  instructions  were  despatched 
to  Dr.  Rae,  by  Governor  Sir  George  Simpson,  of  the 


AUSTIN'S  EXPEDITION. 


261 


•cuce ; 
ut  the 
thick, 
ich  ho 
D  Cape 
ce,  he 
Plover 
joined 
Kellett 
<;  in  the 
lish  his 
h  till  at 
or  was 
3rprise  ; 
b  sea,  in 
rest,  on 
1  opera- 
e  enter- 
>4,  as  he 
ee  years 
issue,  in 
ibtained 

sir  John 
nmer  of 
le  over- 
ence  to 
nd  Wol- 
's  ships 
d   Cape 
y  south- 
and  the 
portant 
patched 
.  of  the 


Hudson's  Bay  Company,  requiring  him,  in  the  event  of 
his  explorations  of  1849  having  been  unsuccessful,  to 
organize  another  expedition  for  the  summer  of  1850. 
This  was  to  penetrate  further,  to  range  more  vv^idely, 
and  to  examine  the  coasts  of  Banks's  Island,  the  coasts 
around  Cape  Walker,  and  the  north  coast  of  Victoria 
Land.  Two  small  parties,  at  the  same  time,  were  to 
])roceed  westward  on  the  mainland  in  the  direction  of 
Point  Barrow  ;  and  one  of  these  was  to  descend  the 
Mackenzie,  and  explore  the  coast  to  the  west  of  it, 
while  the  other  was  to  pass  on  to  the  Colville  River, 
and  to  descend  that  stream  to  the  sea  ;  and  both  were 
to  induce  the  natives,  by  rewartls  and  otherwise,  to 
prosecute  the  search,  and  spread  intelligence  in  all  direc- 
tions. Dr.  Rao  was  particularly  instructed  to  keep  an 
ample  supply  of  provisions,  clothing,  ammunition,  fish- 
ing-tackle, and  other  necessaries,  at  Fort  Good  Hope, 
as  that  seemed  an  eminently  probable  retreat  to  which 
j)arties  of  the  missing  adventurers  might  try  to  force 
their  way.  But  in  most  other  matters,  and  especially 
in  all  the  details  of  the  expedition,  he  was  left  solely  to 
his  own  discretion. 

The  expedition  equipped  by  the  British  government 
for  renewed  search  by  way  of  Baffin's  Bay  and  Lancas- 
ter Sound  comprised  two  strong  teak-built  ships,  —  the 
Resolute  and  the  Assistance,  —  and  two  powerful  screw- 
propelled  steam-vessels  —  the  Pioneer  and  the  Litrepid. 
These  ships  had  a  tonnage,  the  former  of  five  hundred, 
and  the  latter  of  four  hundred  and  thirty  tons,  and  were 
alike  strong,  commodious,  e^'^^ant,  and  admirably  ap- 
purtenanced.  The  steam-vessels  had  strength  and 
adaptation  not  only  for  towing  the  ships  in. open  chan- 
nels, but  for  conflicting  with  the  perils  of  the  polar  seas, 
and  forcing  a  passage  through  small  floes  and  thin 
packs  of  ice.     Captain  IF.  T.  Austin  was  put  in  com- 


262 


ROPS.- PENNY. 


mand  of  the  Eesolute,  Caj,tain  E.  Ommapey  of  the 
Assistance,  and  Lieut.  Sherard  Osborne  of  the  Pioneer. 
Multitudes  of  oflScers  nobly  vied  as  volunteers  to  obtain 
the  subordinate  appointments ;  and  some  of  the  most 
experienced  whale-fisliers  were  obtained  for  the  fore- 
castle. The  instructions  given  were  similar  in  scope 
and  spirit  to  those  of  the  Behxing's  Strait  expedition, 
and  differed  chiefly  in  adaptation  to  the  difi'erent  route. 
The  expedition  sailed  in  the  spring  of  1850.  ^' ' 

An  expedition  under  the  command  of  the  veteran  Sir 
John  Ross  was  equipped  by  a  public  subscription, 
toward  v;^hich  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  contributed 
five  hundred  pounds.  This  consisted  of  a  schooner- 
rigged  vessel  of  one  hundred  and  twenty  tons  (which 
Sir  John  called  the  Felix,  in  honor  of  his  late  patriotic 
friend.  Sir  Felix  Booth),  and  of  a  small  tender,  of  twelve 
tons,  called  the  Mary.  They  were  provisioned  for 
eighteen  months,  and  they  set  sail  in  the  latter  part  of 
April.  Sir  John  was  in  excellent  spirits,  as  full  of  fire 
and  daring  as  in  his  younger  years  ;  and  he  enlisted  in 
his  service  an  old  expert  Esquimaux  interpreter.  His 
plan  was  to  proceed  as  quickly  as  he  could  to  Barrow's 
Strait  to  commence  operations  at  Cape  Hotham,  on  the 
west  side  of  the  entrance  of  Wellington  Channel ;  to 
examine  all  the  headlands  thence  to  Banks's  Land,  and 
then,  if  still  unsuccessful,  to  leave  the  Mary  there  as  a 
vessel  of  retreat,  and  to  push  the  search  in  the  Felix 
alone  during  another  year. 

An  expedition  also  was  equipped  at  the  instance  of 
the  devoted  Lady  Franklin,  wholly  by  her  own  zeal,  and 
mainly  at  her  own  expense.  This  was  put  under  the 
command  of  Mr.  Penny,  formerly  master  of  the  Advice 
wh«?.le-ship,  and  consisted  of  a  fine  ship  of  two  hundred 
and  twenty-five  tons,  called  The  Lady  Franklin,  and  a  new 
clipper-brig  of  one  hundred  and  twenty  tons,  named  the 


FORSYTH'S  EXPEDITION. 


263 


►f  the 
jneer. 
obtain 

most 
3  fore- 

scopo 
dition, 

route. 

ran  Sir 
ription, 
ributed 
hooner- 
(which 
)atriotic 
f  tweb- e 
ned   for 
part  of 
1  of  fire 
listed  in 
r.     His 
arrow's 
,  on  the 
iiel ;  to 
,nd,  and 
ire  as  a 
le  Felix 

tance  of 
ieal,  and 
ider  the 
Advice 
lundred 
id  a  new 
Imed  the 


Sophia.  The  larger  vessel  was  fitted  up  at  Aberdeen, 
and  the  smaller  one  at  Dundee  —  both  with  great  celer- 
ity, and  in  a  style  of  the  best  possible  adaptation  to  an 
Arctic  voyage  ;  and  they  also  sailed  in  the  spring  of 
1850.  Their  proposed  plan  of  procedure  was  somewhat 
coincident  with  that  of  the  government  expedition  ;  yet 
entirely  independent,  except  in  the  way  of  cooperation 
or  mutual  aid,  and  liable  to  be  much  controlled  or  mod- 
ified by  circumstances. 

Another  expedition,  supplementary  to  the  preceding, 
was  equipped  at  the  instance  of  Lady  Franklin.  She 
herself  defrayed  about  two  thirds  of  the  cost  of  it,  by 
means  of  selling  out  of  the  funds  all  the  money  whioh 
she  could  legally  touch  ;  and  her  friends  defrayed  the 
rest.  The  only  vessel  was  the  Prince  Albert,  a 
schooner-rigged  craft  of  ninety  tons,  but  as  fine  a  little 
structure  as  ever  "  walked  the  waters,"  and  strength- 
ened and  fitted  in  the  most  artistic  way  for  buffeting 
the  perils  of  the  Arctic  seas.  She  was  commanded  by 
Commander  Charles  C,  Forsyth,  of  the  Royal  Navy;  and 
was  served  in  a  variety  of  capacities,  most  laboriously 
and  dexterously,  by  Mr.  W.  P.  Snow,  — both  volunteers, 
who  wished  no  compensation  but  the  honor  of  the  en- 
terprise. The  object  was  to  examine  the  shores  of 
Prince  Regent's  Inlet  and  the  Gulf  of  Boothia,  and  to 
send  out  travelling  parties  to  explore  the  west  side  of 
the  land  of  Boothia  down  to  Dease  and  Simpson's 
Strait.  At  the  time  when  Sir  John  Franklin  sailed,  a 
belief  was  general  that  Boothia  was  an  island,  and  that 
Prince  Regent's  Inlet  communicated  with  the  Polar  Sea 
through  Dease  and  Simpson's  Strait ;  so  that,  in  the 
event  of  his  being  baffled  in  finding  a  north-west  pas- 
sage by  way  of  Cape  Walker,  or  up  Wellington  Chan- 
nel, he  would  very  probably  enter  Prince  Regent's  Inlet, 
with  the  view  of  passing  round  the  south  of  Boothia. 


264 


DE  HAVEN.— NORTH   STAR. 


Ilencc  the  present  expedition.  The  Prince  Albert  sailed 
from  Abordo(!n  on  the  5th  of  June. 

An  expedition  also  was  equipped  in  Amerca.  This 
was  g-ot  up  mainly  by  the  exertions  and  at  the  cost  of 
Henry  Grinnell,  Esq.,  a  merchant  of  New  York,  but 
was  put  in  order  and  sent  forth  by  the  United  States 
Navy  department.  It  consisted  of  two  vessels,  the 
Advance  and  the  Rescue,  of  respectively  one  hundred 
and  twenty-fi\  e  and  nimety-five  tons  ;  and  was  put  under 
the  command  of  Lieut.  De  Haven,  who  had  served  in 
the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition,  under  Commo- 
dore Wilkes,  in  the  Antarctic  seas.  It  sailed  from  New 
York  on  the  24th  of  May,  and  was  accompanied  for  two 
days  in  his  yacht  by  Mr.  Grinnoil.  Its  object  was  to 
push  promptly  forward,  in  any  way  it  could,  in  the  di- 
rection of  Melville  Island  and  Banks's  Land  ;  to  winter 
wherever  it  might  happen  to  stick  fast,  in  the  pack,  or 
out  of  the  pack  ;  and  to  move  on  and  make  search  as 
long  as  it  might  be  able,  in  any  direction  which  should 
offer  most  promise  of  succocs. 

The  North  Star  transport,  which  left  England  in  1849 
to  convey  stores  to  the  expedition  under  Sir  James  C. 
Ross,  may  in  some  ocnse  be  regarded  likewise  as  one  of 
the  exploring  ships  of  1850.  She  became  beset  in  Mel- 
ville Bay  on  the  29th  of  July,  1849,  and  gradually  drifted 
till  the  26th  of  September  ;  and  being  then  abreast  of 
Wolstenholme  Sound,  and  able  to  bore  a  way  through  the 
loosened  ice,  she  pressed  up  to  the  head  of  that  sound, 
and  there  wintered  i:i  lat.  16'"'  33'  N.,  being  the  most  north- 
erly position  in  which  any  vessel,  except  Dr.  Kane's,  has 
been  known  to  be  laid  up.  She  lost  four  of  her  crew 
during  the  disnial  seclusion  of  the  Arctic  night,  but  not 
from  causes  attributable  to  the  climate  ;  and  she  found  a 
large  proportion  of  the  preserv  id  meats  she  had  brought 
from  E:igland  to  he  of  bad  quality,  and  was  obliged  to 


niOGRESS  OF  THE  EXPEDITIUN. 


205 


iled 


sal 


This 

JOSt   v)f 

rk,  but 
.  States 
;ls,   the 
lundred 
it  under 
jrved  in 
Commo- 
om  New 

I  for  two 
t  was  to 

II  the  di- 
to  winter 

pack,  or 
search  as 
;h  should 


put  the  surviving^  crew  upon  two-thirds  allowance. 
She  got  out  of  Wolstenholmc  Sound  on  the  lat  of  xVuj^ust, 
1860,  passed  through  "the  middle  ice  "  in  the  centre 
of  Ross's  Bay,  reached  Possession  Bay  on  the  evening 
of  the  8th,  left  despatches  there,  and  arrived  at  Leopold 
on  the  13th.  She  found  that  harbor  full  of  ice,  and  was 
not  able  to  land  stores  at  it,  and  with  great  dilhculty 
communicated  with  the  shore  by  boat,  to  leave  a  notice 
of  her  visit.  She  next  went  toward  Port  Bowen,  but 
found  that  place  entirely  blocked  with  ice  ;  and  then 
stretched  across  out  of  the  inlet,  and  spoke  first  the 
Lady  Franklin,  and  afterwards  the  Felix,  and  got  intel- 
ligence from  them  of  the  great  searching  operations  of 
that  season.  She  next  proceeded  to  Navy  Board  Inlet, 
and  there,  on  the  mainland,  behind  Wollaston  Island, 
she  put  ashore  her  surplus  stores  of  fuel  and  provisions. 
She  had  suddenly  to  scud  away  before  a  gale  ;  and,  run- 
ning out  of  the  mid-channel  of  Lancaster  Sound,  on  the 
28th  of  September  she  arrived  in  Scotland. 

The  several  expeditions  of  1850  up  Baffin's  Bay  en- 
countered enormous  difficulties  from  "the  middle  ice  " 
and  the  Melville  Bay  barrier.  Though  the  ships  sailed 
from  widely  diflferent  points  at  widely  difl'erent  periods, 
they  nearly  all  got  into  view  of  one  another,  and  most 
were  for  some  time  closely  in  company.  All  were  at 
several  times  arrested  or  beset ;  and  the  best  and  largest 
spent  five  weeks  in  effecting  a  northward  distance  of 
thirty  miles.  The  perils  which  +;  :y  braved  were  only 
a  degree  or  two  less  terrible  thn  tl  )3e  of  the  Terror  in 
Hudson's  Bay  in  1836.  The  crev  .j  of  the  smaller  ves- 
sels were  repeatedly  all  prepared,  with  their  bundles 
and  loose  stores,  to  leap  on  the  ice  from  expected  ship- 
wreck, and  to  betake  themselves  to  sledging  or  foot- 
travelling  for  escape  to  the  land.  The  environment,  by 
massive  towering  icebergs,  was  sometimes  so  complete 
23 


266 


THE  PRINCE  ALBERT. 


us  to  exclude  every  perceptible  outlet,  Bomctimes  so 
cloHO  as  alinoHt  to  rub  the  ships,  and  Houietimes  bo  un- 
steady or  whirliup^  as  to  threaten  overwlK'huinj]^  somer- 
sets. Some  \vhaliii|^-ships  which  got  early  to  the  north, 
though  comnuinded  by  the  most  experienced  masters, 
and  manned  by  the  most  select  crews,  turned  about  and 
sailed  back  to  the  south,  fully  believing  the  penetration 
of  Melville  Bay  that  season  to  be  either  an  impossibility 
or  practicable  only  at  fearful  hazards. 

The  expedition  ships,  however,  were  little,  if  at  all, 
daunted,  conscious  of  possessing  higher  powers,  and 
resolutely  determined  to  get  on.  The  means  which 
they  used  for  forcing  their  way  comprised  all  the  known 
methods  of  boring,  tracking,  and  cutting,  and  were 
sometimes  effected  with  prodigious  labor  and  indomita- 
ble perseverance  :  and  they  comprised  also,  in  the  case 
of  the  British  government  expedition,  the  smashing  of 
all  thin  floes,  and  sometimes  the  perilous  assault  of 
thick  ones,  by  the  impetus  of  the  steamers.  The 
smaller  vessels  of  the  private  expeditions  might  have 
seemed  incompetent  for  such  rough  work  ;  but,  though 
ill  able  to  attack,  they  were  well  able  to  run  and  manoeu- 
vre ;  and,  on  the  average  of  the  voyage  through  the 
ice,  they  were  found  to  be  fully  as  safe,  and  more  than 
fully  as  manageable,  as  the  large  ships. 

The  little  Prince  Albert,  in  particular,  did  wonders  ; 
and  on  one  occasion,  disdaining  to  lie  ice-fast,  she  made 
a  daring  attack  upon  a  neck  of  ice  which  lay  between 
her  and  an  open  piece  of  water.  With  a  tremendous 
blow,  that  for  the  moment  made  her  rebound  and  trem- 
ble, she  struck  the  ice  in  the  exact  point,  and  rent  it 
into  fragments. 

The  steamers,  for  a  long  way,  accelerated  the  prog- 
ress not  only  of  the  government  ships,  but  also  of  the 
Felix  and  the  Prince  Albert,  by  towing  them  through 


MOVEMENTS  OF  THE  SHIPS. 


267 


[\C8   8" 

BO  un- 
Bomcv- 
north, 
I  asters, 
3ut  and 
jtration 
isibility 

f  at  all, 
jrs,  and 
9  which 
0  known 
nd   were 
ndomita- 
the  case 
ishing  of 
Bsault  of 
prs.     The 
trht  have 
t,  though 
i  manoeu- 
•ough  the 
nore  than 

wonders  *, 

she  made 

f  between 

emendous 

and  trein- 

,nd  rent  it 

the  prog- 

klao  of  the 

through 


pervious  inassos  of  loose  ice,  and  hy  forcing  a  pasHugo 
through  irnpediincnts.  One  of  the  scones,  deHcribod  by 
Snow,  in  this  part  of  the  voyage  illuKtnit<'M  its  arduous- 
ncss  and  novelty:  "  We  came  to  a  h(Mivy  nip,  and  all 
the  vessels  had  to  bo  made  fast  to  a  floe  until  a  pas- 
sage could  be  cleared.  The  Pioneer,  iinmodiately  on 
casting  oil'  the  Kesolute's  tow-rope,  was  directed  to  dash 
at  the  impediment,  under  full  power.  This  she  did 
boldly  and  fearlessly,  rushing  stem  on,  and  fairly  dig- 
ging her  bows  into  it  in  a  most  rennirkable  manner. 
Backing  instantly  astern,  and  tiien  again  going  ahead, 
she  performed  the  same  manoeuvre,  fairly  lifting  herself 
up  on  end.  like  a  prancing  war-horse.  By  this  time  tho 
nip  was  too  heavy  to  be  so  broken,  though  both  tho 
steamers  had  previously  cleared  many  similar  impedi- 
ments in  that  manner.  It  was  now,  however,  necessary 
to  resort  to  other  means  ;  and,  accordingly,  parties  from 
every  ship  were  sent  on  the  ice  to  assist  in  blowing  it 
up,  and  removii  ^  the  fragments  as  they  got  loosened. 
Tho  same  plan  as  that,  I  believe,  adopted  in  blasting 
rocks,  was  here  pursued.  Powder  was  sunk  to  a  certain 
depth,  a  slow  match  applied,  and  at  a  given  signal 
ignited.  Due  time  was  allowed,  and  then  tho  enormous 
masses  would  be  seen  in  convulsive  movement,  as 
though  shaken  by  a  volcanic  eruption,  until  piece  upon 
piece  was  sent  in  the  air,  and  the  larger  bodies  were 
completely  rent  into  innumerable  fragments.  The 
isteamers  then  darted  forward,  and  with  warps  dragged 
f  ut  the  immense  blocks  that  had  been  thus  dissevered. 
Several  efforts  had  to  be  made  by  blasting  and  forcing 
the  ice  before  a  passage  could  be  cleared." 

On  the  14th  of  August  the  Lady  P'ranklin  and  the 
Sophia  were  for  a  little  while  in  company  with  the  other 
ships,  and  then,  amidst  deafening  cheers,  stood  away, 
under  all  sail,  to  the  west.     On  the  following  night, 


1 

1 

i 

1 

1 

t 

208 


MOVKMKNTS   OF  THE  SIIII'S. 


wIkmi  th(»  lidlo  n<M>t  wore  ofl"  (Jiipij  Diulh'y  Dig'^os,  the 
Iiitr<>|)i(l,  till*  AKsistidicc,  uiul  the  l''(>lix,  parted  coiiipiiiiy 
ti)  miik(>  ii  Hcjircli  in  W'olstciiliolmc  Souihl.  Oii  tlio  ITitli 
tlio  I'ioiu'cr,  the  Hcsoliitc,  iiiid  1Im>  !*iiiit'(5  Albert,  vvoro 
(juito  into  tlio  "  North  Water,"  uvvay  from  tlio  ice  ;  and 
1)11  the  Kith  Captain  Austin  announced  liin  intention  to 
call  at  l*«)iMrH  Hay  and  J\)HHesHion  Ha^  .  Ilc^  exprcKned 
a  wish  that  the  J'rini'e  Albert  would  examine  tin;  Houth 
ishore  of  liancaster  Souml  from  Capc^  Hay  onward;  and 
stated-  that  the  Intrepid  and  the  AHsistaneo  would  ex- 
amine the  north  nhore,  and  come  to  a  rende/vouH  with 
the  Resolute  Homewhere  about  the  mouth  ol'  W'ellingtou 
Chaiuiel. 

Karly  on  the  'Jlst  of  Auj;ust  the  Prince  Albert  arriv<'d 
oft'  Port  Leopold.  A  landing:;  waH  ell'ected  with  jj^reat 
dilVu'ulty  in  a  ^utta-pereha  boat,  and  could  not  have 
been  etl'ected  at  all  in  any  ordinary  boat.  The  houno 
constructed  by  Sir  Jamea  C.  Hoaa  was  found  much  rent 
in  several  places  on  the  top  and  at  the  sides,  but  other- 
wise in  excellent  order,  and  quite  lit  to  be  a  temi)orary 
retreat  to  any  forlorn  or  cast-away  Arctic  adventurers. 
The  stores  were  abundant  and  in  prime  condition.  The 
steam  launch  seemed  a  noble  little  vessel,  in  which  a 
brave-hearted  party  might  venture  anywhere,  and  was 
so  placed  that  she  could  very  easily  be  run  into  the  sea. 
But  not  a  trace  was  found  of  the  visit  of  any  wanderer 
from  the  Erebus  and  the  Terror. 

The  Prince  Albert  now  stood  away  down  Prince  Re- 
gent's Inlet ;  and  towards  evening,  when  she  was  glid- 
itig  past  the  ice  of  Batty  Bay,  her  crew  were  startled 
for  a  moment  into  a  thrill  of  hope.  The  men  on  deck 
thought  they  heard  a  gun  iircd  on  shore  ;  the  olTicers 
ran  to  scrutinize  the  land  through  their  glasses  aloft ; 
the  vessel  was  steered  closer  to  the  bay  ;  the  howitzer 
was  cleared  away,  and  tired  ;  but  not  the  sliglitest  sign 


MOVKMENTS  OF  TIIF,  HllIPS. 


209 


'«,  the 
npuny 
10  ir)th 
,,  wcro 
? ;  aiul 
tioii  to 

J    BOlltli 

(I;  uud 

HlUl    t!X- 

UH  with 
Uingtou 

;  anivod 
Ih  ^leat 
lot  have 

10   llUUHC 

mch  ront 
nt  othcr- 
'inporary 
outurevs. 
on.     The 
winch  a 
and  was 
)  tho  Foa. 
wanderer 

'rn\cc  Rc- 
|was  pi  id- 
startled 
1 1  on  dock 
ie  officers 
Isos  alol't ; 
howitzer 
litest  sign 


of  lilo  couKl  1)0  Roon  ;  not  tho  faintewt  ariHworing'  Hound 
wuH  hoard.  Tho  Hupposod  Hhot  had  horn  inoroly  tlio 
fallinjif  of  a  pioce  of  rock,  or  tho  collision  of  soino  heavy 
uiaHscH  of  ico. 

•'  No.vt  morning  th(3  vohhoI  waH  off  Fury  Bcacli,  ami  ii» 
a  thick  fog;  and  when  the  fog  cleared  away,  she  j)rovo(l 
to  1)0  in  a  bight  of  th(^  ic(!,  within  a  f(!w  yards  of  a  con- 
tinuous, heavy,  hunnnoeky  expanse,  which  conlaincMl 
not,  as  far  as  it  could  be  seen  from  the  crow's  ntst,  one 
j)ool  or  crack,  or  the;  slightest  promise  of  an  opening. 
Tho  officers  examineil  this  long  and  anxiously,  and  wero 
forced  to  conclude  that  any  attempt  to  penotraie  it  that 
season  woulil  lu;  impracticable.  They  gloomily  but 
irresistibly  felt  the  specific  object  of  tluMr  voyage,  tlio 
examination  of  the  shores  of  IJoothia,  to  be  defeated  ; 
and  saw  at  once  that  they  must  turn  about  and  lose 
little  time  in  returning  to  Britain.  Hut  they  resolved 
first  to  look  at  some  of  the  most  accessible  shores  and 
headlands  about  tho  throat  of  Barrow's  Strait,  and  u 
brief  way  up  Wellington  ('haniM;!. 

During  twenty-four  hours,  Mr.  Sikjw,  with  a  small 
boat  party,  made  a  romantic  land  search  of  tho  coast 
around  Batty  Bay,  and  on  to  Port  Leopold  ;  and  he  found 
tho  latter  place  far  more  blocked  up  than  on  the  21st, 
and  did  not  get  away  from  it  without  enormous  labor 
and  difliculty.  When  he  again  reached  his  vessel  they 
had  to  stand  well  away  to  avoid  collision  with  a  heavy 
stream  of  ico  which  fiiled  a  large  portion  of  tho  adjacent 
sounds.  When  they  got  a  little  way  into  Barrow's 
Strait,  they  saw  coming  right  towards  them  a  schooner, 
which  they  first  supposed  to  bo  tho  Felix,  but  afterwards 
found  to  be  the  American  brig  Advance.  On  tho 
morning  of  the  24:th,  they  wero  standing  across  to  Capo 
nurd,  under  a  clear  sky  and  with  a  moderate  breeze, 
while  a  heavy  pack  was  visible  from  the  crow's  nest, 
23* 


Vb\ 


270 


MEETING  IN  THE  ARCTIC  SEAS. 


extending  all  along  the  coast  of  North  Somerset,  from 
outside  of  Leopold  Island  on  the  east,  to  the  vicinity  of 
Cape  Ilennell,  where  it  appeared  to  enlarge,  and  began 
to  take  a  curved  direction  toward  Cape  Ilotham. 
The  Advance  was  still  behind  tliem  ;  the  Lady  Franklin 
and  the  Sophia  were  to  windward,  struggling  along 
shore  in  the  vicinity  of  Radstock  Bay  ;  and,  as  the  day 
wore  on,  three  more  ships  were  observed  at  the  mouth  of 
Wellington  Channel. 

An  liour  before  noon  of  the  25th,  when  the  Prince 
Albert  was  off  Cape  Spencer,  her  oflScers  saw  that  she 
must  stop.  An  extensive  pack  was  then  a  short  dis- 
tance ahead,  broken  only  by  a  few  lanes  of  water, 
through  which  the  ships  in  advance  had  evidently 
passed ;  and  the  wind  was  blowing  in  a  direction, 
happily,  quite  favorable  for  carrying  these  ships  rapidly 
on  to  the  regions  of  most  desirable  search,  but  fitted 
also  to  make  a  prompt  closure  of  the  pack  against  any 
return  that  season  to  the  east.  If  the  Prince  Albert 
sliould  now  go  forward  more  than  a  mile  or  two,  she 
might  be  suddenly  caught  by  the  ice,  and  helplessly  and 
uselessly  shut  up  for  the  winter.  At  noon,  therefore, 
she  bore  up  when  about  midway  between  Cape  Spencer 
and  Point  Innes  ;  and  then  Mr.  Snow  went  to  the  mast- 
head to  take  a  last  view  of  the  position  and  seeming 
prospects  of  the  several  exploring  vessels. 

Cape  Ilotham  was  seen  to  the  west  enveloped  in  a 
thick  haze.  The  Assistance  appeared  some  distance  to 
the  north-east  of  it,  endeavoring  to  get  to  it,  seemingly 
cither  in  a  hole  of  water  or  along  a  lane.  The  Lady 
Franklin  was  not  far  from  the  Assistance,  but,  proba- 
bly, about  mid-channel,  cither  working  toward  Cape 
Hothani,  or  trying  to  get  right  away  to  the  west.  The 
Sophui,  also  under  all  sail,  was  some  distance  astern 
of  the  Lady  Franklin,  and  more  to  the  east.     The  Res- 


TRACES  OF  FKANKLIN. 


271 


,  from 
ity  of 
began 
)tliara. 
•anklin 
along 
he  day 
outh  of 

Princo 
hat  she 
ort  dis- 
'  water, 
vidcntly 
irection, 
5  rapidly 
ut  fitted 
inst  any 
e  Albert 
wo,  she 
ssly  and 
herefore, 
Spencer 
he  mast- 
seeming 


cue  was  still  further  to  the  east,  considerably  in-shore, 
and  apparently  beset.  All  these  vessels  were  among 
heavy  ice.  The  Advance  could  not  be  seen,  but  was 
supposed  to  be  behind  one  of  tlie  points  of  land  ;  and 
she  was  afterwards  spoken  in  tlie  vicinity  of  Cape  Riley, 
close  in-shore,  fast  to  an  iceberg.  The  Intrepid,  too, 
was  not  then  visible,  but  had  been  seen  in  the  morning. 
All  Wellington  Channel,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach, 
was  filled  with  one  solid  pack,  broken  only  here  and 
there  by  a  small  lane.  Some  high  land,  appearing  dim 
and  filmy  from  haze  and  distance,  was  seen  toward 
Cape  Bowden,  trending  apparently  to  the  north-west. 
One  heavy  pack  extended  athwart  all  the  south-west, 
and  seemed  to  be  impenetrable.  The  only  clear  water 
visible  lay  immediately  around  the  Prince  Albert,  and 
backward  along  the  way  by  which  she  had  come. 

On  the  same  day,  soon  after  iu.^.  Prince  Albert  had 
turned  her  bow  homeward,  a  flag-staff,  like  a  signal- 
post,  was  observed  on  Cape  Riley.  The  officers,  sup- 
posing this  to  have  been  set  up  by  a  party  from  some 
one  of  the  exploration  ships,  sent  a  boat  ashore  to 
ascertain  what  it  meant.  A  cylinder  was  found  at  the 
flag-staff,  containing  a  notice  that  the  officers  of  the 
Assistance  and  the  Intrepid  had  landed  on  Cape  Riley 
on  the  23d ;  that  they  had  collected  there  distinct 
traces  of  an  encampment  by  some  party  belonging  to 
the  royal  navy  of  Britain  ;  that  they  had  found  traces 
of  the  same  party  on  Beechey  Island,  and  that  they 
purposed  to  proceed  thence  to  Capo  Hothara  and  Cape 
Walker,  in  search  of  further  traces. 

The  little  boat-party  from  the  Prince  Albert  were  too 
zealous  to  be  satisfied  with  this  mere  notice.  They 
looked  eagerly  around,  and  soon  observed  five  spots 
on  which  tents  seemed  to  have  been  fixed,  and  also 
obtained  a  piece  of  navy  rope,  a  piece  of  canvas,  a  chip 


;» f 


272 


TRACES  OF   FRANKLIN. 


of  timber,  and  a  number  of  meat-bones.  These,  all 
poor  and  pitiful  thou<^h  they  might  seem  of  themselves, 
seemed  to  throw  so  perceptible  a  light  on  at  least  the 
commencement  of  the  mystery  of  the  Franklin  expedi- 
tion, that  they  were  esteemed  a  precious  prize. 

The  Prince  Albert  arrived  at  Aberdeen  on  the  1st 
of  October ;  and  the  relics  from  Cape  Riley  were 
speedily  sent  to  the  Admiralty,  and  subjected  there  to  a 
rigorous  scrutiny.  The  piece  of  rope  was  found  to  be 
of  navy-yard  manufacture,  not  later  than  1841  ;  the 
piece  of  canvas  to  have  a  corresponding  character  ; 
the  chip  of  timber  to  have  a  recent  cut,  with  seemingly 
an  European  axe ;  the  meat-bones  to  bear  exactly  the 
marks  of  a  ship's  provisions  used  about  five  years 
back ;  the  reported  tent-marks  to  be  nearly  such  as 
might  be  expected  from  a  party  making  a  long  stay  for 
the  purpose  of  scientific  observation  ;  and  the  entire 
circumstances  of  the  traces  on  Cape  Eiley  unaccount- 
able by  any  known  or  supposable  event,  except  a  pro- 
longed visit,  in  1845  or  1846,  by  a  party  from  the  Erebus 
and  the  Terror. 

The  first  traces  of  the  missing  ships  were  discovered 
by  Captain  Ommaney,  in  the  Assistance,  at  Cape  Riley, 
on  the  23d  August,  1850.  The  cape  is  a  point  at  the 
eastern  entrance  of  Wellington  Channel ;  about  three 
miles  west  of  it  rises  the  bold  abrupt  coast  of  Beechey 
Island  ;  and  between  the  shores  of  this  isle  and  the 
mainland  lies  a  bay  to  which  extraordinary  interest  is 
now  attached.  On  its  coast  were  observed  numerous 
sledge-tracks  ;  and  at  Cape  Spencer,  about  ten  miles 
from  Cape  Riley,  up  Wellington  Channel,  the  party 
discovered  the  ground-place  of  a  tent,  the  floor  neatly 
paved  with  small  smooth  stones. 

Around  the  tent  a  number  of  birds'  bones,  as  well  as 
remnants  of  meat-canisters,  seemed  to  indicate  that  it 


TRACES  OF  FRANKLIN. 


273 


e,  all 
elves, 
Lst  the 
ixpedi- 

;he  1st 
r  were 
3re  to  a 
d  to  be 
,\  ;   the 
iracter  ; 
emingly 
ctly  the 
e   years 
such  as 
stay  for 
le   entire 
^accoviiit- 
)t  a  pro- 
e  Erebus 

scovered 
)e  Hiley, 
it  at  the 
)ut  three 
Beechey 

and  the 
iterest  is 
lumerous 
ten  miles 
|he  party 

»r  neatly 

well  as 
[e  that  it 


had  been  inhabited  for  some  time  as  a  shooting-  station 
and  a  look-out  place,  for  which  latter  purpose  it  was 
admirably  chosen,  commanding  a  good  view  of  Barrow's 
Strait  and  WcHington  Channel. 

Some  sledge-tracks  -led  northward  for  about  twenty 
miles,  but  the  trail  ceased  south  of  Capo  Bowden,  and 
an  empty  bottle  and  a  piece  of  newspaper  were  the  last 
things  found.  The  results  of  examining  Beechey  Island 
must  be  given  in  more  detail.  Lieut.  Osborne  says  : 
"  A  long  point  of  land  slopes  gradually  from  the  south- 
ern bluffs  of  this  now  deeply  interesting  island,  until  it 
almost  connects  itself  with  the  land  of  North  Devon, 
forming  on  either  side  of  it  two  good  and  commodious 
bays.  On  this  slope  a  multitude  of  preserved-meat-tins 
were  strewed  about ;  and  near  them,  and  on  the  ridge 
of  the  slope,  a  carefully-constructed  cairn  was  dis- 
covered ;  it  consisted  of  layers  of  fitted  tins,  filled  with 
gravel,  and  placed  to  form  a  firm  and  solid  foundation. 
Beyond  this,  and  along  the  northern  shore  of  Beechey 
Island,  the  following  traces  were  then  quickly  dis- 
covered :  the  embankment  of  a  house,  with  carpenters' 
and  armorers'  working-places,  washing-tubs,  coal-bags, 
pieces  of  old  clothing,  rope, —  and,  lastly,  the  graves  of 
three  of  the  crew  of  the  Erebus  and  Terror,  bearing 
date  of  the  winter  of  1815-6.  We,  ihertfore,  noiv  had 
ascertained  the  first  winter  quarters  of  Sir  John  Franklin. 

"  On  the  eastern  slope  of  the  ridge  of  Beechey  Island  a 
remnant  of  a  garden  (for  remnant  it  now  only  was,  having 
been  dug  up  in  the  search)  told  an  'nteresting  tale  ;  its 
neatly-shaped,  oval  outline  —  the  border  carefully  formed 
of  moss  lichen,  poppies,  and  anemones,  transplanted 
from  some  more  genial  part  of  this  dreary  region  —  con- 
trived still  to  show  symptoms  of  vitality  ;  but  the  seeds 
which,  doubtless,  they  had  sowed  in  the  garden,  had 
decayed  away.     Nearer  to  the  beach,  a  heap  of  cinders 


274 


TRACES  OF  FRANKLIN. 


IP 


and  scraps  of  iron  showed  the  armorers'  working-place; 
and,  along  an  old  water-course,  now  chained  up  by 
frost,  several  tubs,  constructed  of  the  ends  of  salt-meat 
casks,  left  no  doubt  as  to  the  washing-places  of  the  men 
of  Franklin's  squadron.  Happening  to  cross  a  level 
piece  of  ground,  which  as  yet  no  one  had  lighted  upon, 
I  was  pleased  to  see  a  pair  of  cashmere  gloves  laid  out 
to  dry,  with  two  small  stones  on  the  palms  to  prevent 
their  blowing  away  ;  they  had  been  there  since  1846.  I 
took  them  up  carefully,  as  melancholy  mementoes  of 
my  missing  friends.  In  another  spot  a  flannel  was 
discovered  ;  and  this,  together  with  some  things  lying 
about,  would,  in  my  ignorance  of  wintering  in  the  Arctic 
regions,  have  led  me  to  suppose  that  there  was  consid- 
erable haste  displayed  in  the  departure  of  tlio  Erebus 
and  Terror  from  this  spot,  had  not  Captain  Austin 
assured  me  that  there  was  nothing  to  ground  such  a 
belief  upon,  and  that,  from  experience,  he  could  vouch 
for  these  being  nothing  more  than  the  ordinary  traces 
of  a  winter  station  ;  and  this  opinion  was  fully  borne 
out  by  those  officers  who  had,  in  the  previous  year, 
wintered  in  Port  Leopold,  one  of  them  asserting  that 
people  left  winter  quarters  too  well  pleased  to  escape, 
to  care  much  ibr  a  handful  of  shavings,  an  old  coal-bag, 
or  a  washing-tub." 

The  most  interesting  traces  of  winter  residence  were 
the  graves  of  Franklin's  three  seamen.  Each  grave 
was  marked  by  an  oaken  head  and  foot  board,  and  the 
inscriptions  were  as  follow  : 

"  Sacred  to  the  memory  of  J.  Torrington,  who  de- 
parted this  life  January  1st,  1846,  on  board  of  II.  M.  S. 
Terror,  aged  20  years." 

"Sacred  to  the  memory  of  J.  Ilartnell,  A.B.,  of 
IT.  M.  S.  Erebus,  died  January  4th,  1846,  aged  23  years. 


TRACES  OF   FRANKLIN. 


275 


place ; 

up  by 

,t-nicat 

le  men 

1  level 

I  upon, 

aid  out 

prevent 

L846.    I 

toes  of 

lel  was 

rs  lying 

e  Arctic 

I  consid- 

1  Erebus 
Austin 

I  such  a 

Id  vouch 
y  traces 
y  borne 
us  year, 
ing  that 
escape, 
coal-bag, 

Qce  were 
;h  grave 
and  the 

who  de- 
ll. M.  S. 

A.B.,  of 
]23  years. 


Thus  saifh  (he  Lord  of  Hosts,  Consider  your  ways. — 
llaggai  1:1." 

"Sacred  to  the  memory  of  Wm.  Braine,  R.M.,  of 
II.  M.  S.  Erebus,  died  April  3d,  184G,  aged  32  years. 
Choose  ye  this  day  whom  ye  will  serve.  —  Josh.  24  :  15." 

Lieut.  De  Haven,  of  the  Advance,  landed  on  Cape 
Riley  on  the  morning  of  the  25th  August,  where  he 
examined  the  traces  of  Sir  John  Franklin,  before  de- 
scribed, and  erected  a  second  signal-post.  On  the  same 
day  the  Prince  Albert  visited  the  place,  and  by  her,  as 
we  have  seen,  the  first  intelligence  of  the  discovery  was 
carried  to  England.  Afterwards  Captain  Penny  and 
his  officers  examined  Beechey  Isla: 'i  and  the  whole 
neighborhood  very  carefully  and  mmutely.  But  the 
thorough  search  made  by  all  these  parties  failed  to 
discover  any  memorandum  or  record  to  indicate  Frank- 
lin's past  efforts  or  future  intentions. 

All  that  can  be  learned  from  the  traces  discovered  is, 
that  Franklin's  ships  wintered,  in  1845-6,  on  the  south 
side  of  Beechey  Island,  and  that  three  of  his  men  died 
at  that  point.  The  mortality  does  not  exceed  that  of 
previous  expeditions  ;  and  we  may  tlierefore  conclude 
that  the  expedition  was  in  highly  effective  order  when 
it  left  that  anchorage,  with  only  a  moderate  inroad  into 
its  stock  of  preserved  meats,  the  seven  hundred  empty 
tins  found  on  the  island  forming  but  a  small  proportion 
of  the  twenty-four  thousand  canisterr  with  which  the 
ships  were  supplied. 

How  long  Franklin's  ships  remained  at  Beechey  Island, 
when  and  under  what  circumstances  they  left,  and  what 
course  they  pursued,  are  mere  matters  of  conjecture,  as 
to  which  various  opinions  have  been  formed.  Some  ex- 
perienced officers  believe  that  the  expedition  did  not 
leave  its  winter  anchorage  till  the  end  of  August  or 
beginning  of  September,  1846.     It  is  also  inferred,  from 


276 


SLEDGING  PARTIES. 


some  appearances,  that  it  left  suddenly  ;  that  probably  a 
great  and  unexpected  disruption  of  the  ice  had  sum- 
moned the  crews  to  resume  progress  in  tlie  ships  ;  but 
this  is  contested  by  other  officers  of  equal  experience, 
who  contend  that  there  could  have  been  no  hurry  in 
removing  from  Beechey  Island,  as  everything  bore  the 
stamp  of  order  and  regularity,  utterly  forbidding  tho 
idea  that  Franklin  had  been  forcjd  away  by  the  ice. 

On  the  8th  September,  1850,  most  of  the  searching 
vessels  got  once  more  free  from  tho  ice,  and  unfurled 
their  sails  in  open  water,  along  the  south  side  of  Corn- 
wallis  Island.  They  bore  boldly  away,  in  the  hope  of 
penetrating  well  to  the  west,  but  were  soon  arrested  by 
a  vast  floe,  which  extended  from  the  south-west  end  of 
Griffith  Island,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach.  They 
kept  close  to  this,  and  strove  with  it,  from  the  10th  till 
the  13th,  and  then  began  again  to  get  forward;  yet  pro- 
ceeded only  a  short  distance,  amid  great  embarrassment 
and  severe  exertion,  when  they  were  compelled  to  stick 
fast  for  the  winter.  The  government  ships  were  locked 
up  in  the  ice  between  Cornwallis  Island  and  Griffith 
Island  ;  and  all  the  others  were  sufficiently  near  to 
admit  of  easy  communication  among  the  whole  squad- 
ron. 

Arrangements  were  early  made*  for  performing  explor- 
atory journeys  with  sledges  in  spring.  Captain  Aus- 
tin superintended  those  for  the  lands  and  islands  along 
what  may  be  called  Parry's  Strait,  —  the  band  of  sea 
westward  from  Barrow's  Strait  to  Melville  Island,  and 
the  nortli  end  of  Banks's  Land ;  and  Captain  Penny  un- 
dertook to  conduct  the  search  of  Wellington  Channel. 
Sledges  were  sent  out,  before  the  severest  period  of  the 
winter,  to  place  provisions  in  depot  for  the  use  of  the 
explorers  in  spring  ;  and  exercises  of  walking  and  sledge- 
dragging  were  afterwards,  in  all  favorable  weather,  prac- 


SLEDGING  PARTIES. 


277 


ably  a 
I  Hum- 
, ;  but 
L-ieuce, 
\n-y  in 
)re  the 
ng  tlie 

CG. 

arching 
mfurled 
>f  Com- 
lope  of 
;sted  by 
;  end  of 
.  They 
10th  till 

yet  pro- 
L-assmcnt 

to  stick 

e  locked 
Griffith 

near   to 
10  squad- 


tised  near  the  ships,  to  keep  the  men  vigorous,  and  to 
train  them  for  their  journoyings. 

On  the  12th  of  April  the  parties  for  the  westward  ex- 
ploration, amounting  to  one  hundred  and  four  men,  with 
fourteen  sledges,  were  all  ready,  and  proceeded,  under 
the  command  of  Captain  Ommaney,  to  an  encampment 
at  the  north-west  end  of  Griffith  Island.  There  they 
underwent  a  close  inspection  by  Captain  Austin,  and 
spent  three  days  in  repose,  and  in  waiting  for  the  abate- 
ment of  a  tempestuous  wind.  On  the  evening  of  the 
15th  they  united  in  a  special  prayer  to  the  Divine  Be- 
ing for  protection  and  guidance,  and  then,  with  enthu- 
siastic determination,  started  on  their  arduous  enter- 
prise. 

Six  of  the  parties  were  "extended"  ones, — to  go 
to  the  utmost  possible  distance,  — three  along  the  south 
shore,  and  three  along  the  north  shore.  The  first  sledge 
on  the  south  shore,  the  Reliance,  under  Captain  Omma- 
ney, travelled  four  hundred  and  eighty  miles,  discov- 
ered two  hundred  and  five  miles  of  previously  un- 
known coast,  and  was  absent  sixty  days.  The  second, 
the  True  Blue,  under  Lieut.  Osborne,  travelled  five 
hundred  and  six  miles,  discovered  seventy  miles  of 
coast,  and  was  absent  fifty-eight  days.  And  the  third, 
the  Enterprise,  under  Lieut.  Browne,  travelled  three 
hundred  and  seventy-five  miles,  discovered  one  hundred 
and  fifty  miles  of  coast,  and  was  absent  forty-four  days. 
In  this  travelling  sails  were  occasionally  hoisted  on  the 
sledges,  and  large  kites  were  also  attached.  When  the 
wind  was  high,  these  aids  propelled  the  sledge  very 
rapidly,  and  the  whole  of  the  party  then  rode  ;  but  when 
the  wind  fell,  the  sledges,  with  their  provisions  ami 
stores,  had  to  be  dragged  by  main  force  over  the  ice 
by  the  men  harnessed  to  them.  The  most  western  point 
reached  was  the  extreme  one  of  the  True  Blue,  and  is 

24 


278 


SLEDGINQ  PARTIES 


situated  in  west  longitude  103°  25',  almost  half  way 
between  Leopold  Island  and  Point  Turnagain  on  tlio 
American  continent. 

The  first  sledge  on  the  north  shore,  the  Lady  Frank- 
lin, under  the  command  of  Lieut.  Aldrich,  travelled  five 
hundred  and  iif^y  miles,  discovered  seventy  miles  of 
coast,  and  was  absent  sixty-two  days.  The  second,  the 
Perseverance,  under  the  command  of  Lieut.  M'Clintock, 
trav(;lled  seven  hundred  and  sixty  miles,  discovered 
forty  miles  of  coast,  and  was  absent  eighty  days.  And 
the  third,  the  Resolute,  under  the  command  of  Surgeon 
Bradford,  travelled  six  hundred  and  sixty-nine  miles, 
discovered  one  hundred  and  thirty-five  miles  of  coast, 
and  was  absent  eighty  days.  Lieut.  M'CIintock's  party 
achieved  the  farthest  westing  of  the  three  ;  and  the  fur- 
thest, indeed,  which  has  ever  been  attained  in  the  polar 
seas,  —  a  point  in  latitude  14°  38'  and  west  longitude 
114°  20'. 

lie  left  the  ships  on  the  15th  of  April,  and,  taking  a 
course  due  west,  reached  Point  Griffith,  on  the  eastern 
shore  of  Melville  Island,  on  the  11th  of  May.  On  the 
21st  he  sighted  Winter  Harbor  :  but,  there  being  neither 
ships,  tents,  nor  any  sign  of  human  habitation,  to  be 
seen,  he  deferred  any  close  scrutiny  of  it  until  his  return. 
By  the  21th  of  May  he  had  reached  Cape  Dundas,  at  the 
western  extremity  of  Melville  Island  ;  and  on  the  follow- 
ing day,  ascending  a  high  cliff,  made  out  the  coast  of 
Banks's  Land.  . 

To  the  north  of  Banks's  Land,  at  a  distance  from  it 
of  about  seventy  miles,  he  discovered  a  range  of  land 
apparently  running  nearly  due  west.  "  This  does  not 
present  steep  cliffs,  but  a  bold  and  deeply  indented 
coast ;  the  land  rising  to  the  interior,  and  intersected 
by  valleys  rather  than  rav.  i."  The  sea  he  imagined 
to  continue  to  the  westward.     Following  the  coast  of 


SLEDGING   PiVKTIEa 


279 


Melville  Island  to  the  north-cast,  he  entered  Liddon 
(julf,  and  here  saw  fragments  of  coal  of  good  quality. 
Leaving  the  shore,  he  crossed  the  gulf  to  gain  liushinan 
Cove,  where  Parry,  in  his  journey  across  the  island,  in 
1820,  had  left  the  "  strong  but  light  cart,"  in  which  lie 
had  carried  his  tent  and  stores.  On  the  1st  of  June 
M'Clintock  reached  the  west  point  of  the  cove,  and, 
leaving  two  men  to  prepare  supper,  he  commenced  a 
search,  with  four  others,  for  Parry's  encampment  of  the 
nth  of  June,  1820  : 

"  On  reaching  the  ravhie  leading  into  the  cove,"  ho 
says,  "we  spread  across,  and  walked  up,  and  easily 
found  the  enca  ,)ment,  although  the  pole  had  fallen 
down.  The  very  accurate  report  published  of  his  jour- 
ney saved  us  much  labor  in  finding  the  tin  cylinder  and 
ammunition.  The  crevices  between  the  stones  piled  over 
them  were  fdled  with  ice  and  snow ;  the  powder  com- 
pletely destroyed,  and  cylinder  eaten  through  with  rust, 
and  filled  with  ice.  From  the  extreme  difficulty  of 
descending  into  such  a  ravine  with  any  vehicle,  I  sup- 
posed that  the  most  direct  route,  where  all  seemed 
equally  bad,  was  selected  ;  therefore  sent  the  men  di- 
rectly up  the  northern  bank,  in  search  of  the  wheels 
wliich  were  left  where  the  cart  broke  down.  They 
fortunately  found  them  at  once  ;  erected  a  cairn  about 
the  remains  of  the  wall  built  to  shelter  the  tent ;  placed 
a  record  on  it,  in  one  tin  case  within  another.  We  then 
collected  a  few  relics  of  our  predecessors,  and  returned 
with  the  remains  of  the  cart  to  our  encampment.  An 
excellent  fire  had  been  made  with  willow  stems  ;  and 
upon  this  a  kettle,  containing  Parry's  cylinder,  was 
placed.  As  soon  as  the  ice  was  thawed  out  of  it,  the 
record  it  contained  was  carefully  taken  out.  I  could 
only  just  distinguish  the  date.     Had  it  been  in  a  better 


y  I 


*« 


• 


'M^ 


280 


SLEDGING  PARTIES. 


state  of  preservation,  I  would  have  restored  it  to  its 
lonely  position. " 

As  the  weather  was  misty,  M'Clintockdid  not  explore 
the  head  oftlie  ^ulf,  but  struck  directly  across  the  land 
for  Winter  JIarbor.  It  was  evident  that  no  one  had 
visited  the  place  since  Parry's  departure,  in  1820. 

On  the  shore,  above  Winter  Harbor,  is  a  large  sand- 
stone bowlder,  near  the  site  of  Parry's  observatory,  on 
the  flat  face  of  which  Mr.  Fisher,  his  surgeon,  had  cut 
this  inscription  : 

His   Britannio  Majesty's 
Ships  IIECLA  anl  CJUIl'ER, 

Cominanded  by 

W.  E.  Parry  ami  Mr.  Litldon, 

Wintered  ia  the  adjacent 

Harbor  181'J-20. 

A.  Fiaher,  Sculpt. 

This  inscription,  M'Clintock  says,  appeared  quite 
fresh.  A  hare,  discovered  at  the  foot  of  this  rock, 
was  so  tanrie  that  she  entered  the  tent,  and  would  almost 
allow  the  men  to  touch  her.  "I  have  never  seen," 
ho  says,  "  any  animal,  in  its  natural  state,  so  perfectly 
fearless  of  man  ;  and  there  cannot  be  a  more  convincing 
proof  that  our  missing  corntrymen  have  not  been  here. 
A  ptarmigan  alighted  on  the  rock,  and  was  shot,  without 
in  the  least  disturbing  puss  as  she  sat  beneath  it." 

M'Clintock  carved  the  figures  1851  on  the  rock,  and 
left  it  and  the  hare. 

On  the  6th  June  he  left  Winter  Harbor,  and  reached 
the  ships  on  the  4th  of  July.  The  latter  part  of  his 
journey  was  fatiguing,  from  the  extensive  pools  of 
water  in  the  ice  ;  but  all  his  men  arrived  in  excellent 
health  and  spirits.  He  was  out  eighty  days,  and  had 
travelled  seven  hundred  and  seventy  miles.  Several 
reindeer,  musk-oxen,  and  bears,  were  shot,  besides 
numerous  birds ;   and  the  food  thus  obtained  was  of 


SLEDGING   PARTIES. 


281 


very  matorial  importance  to  the  pooplo.  Thoy  travollod 
when  11  '  coM  was  ho  iiitiMiHO  that  bottles  of  water,  car- 
ried by  the  men  in  their  breasts,  froze  after  an  hour  or 
80  ;  salt  pork  broke  like  snet,  and  rum  thickeiuMl.  This 
journey  made  it  certain  that  Franklin  liad  not  passed 
west  of  the  Parry  Islands. 

The  other  two  parties  moved  in  higher  latitudes,  and 
were  stopped  a  little  west  of  Sabine  Island,  yet  they 
traversed  tracts  and  encountered  incidents  of  high 
interest. 

The  parties  of  less  limited  range  than  the  "  extended  " 
ones  deposited  provisions,  set  up  marks,  made  obser- 
vations, ascertained  positions,  and  effected  minor  ex- 
plorations ;  and  were  absent  during  periods  of  from 
twelve  to  tliirty-four  days.  They  may  seem  to  have  had 
easier  work  than  the  others  ;  yet  they  suffered  more 
severely,  for  no  fewer  than  twenty-eight  of  their  men 
were  frost-bitten,  and  one  died  from  exhaustion  and 
cold.  The  extended  parties  got  back  in  good  health, 
and  needed  only  a  little  rest  and  comfort  to  repair  the 
effects  of  their  privation  and  fatigue.  But  not  one  of 
all  the  parties,  near  or  remote,  obtained  the  slightest 
trace  of  the  missing  adventurers  ;  and  Captain  Austin, 
after  receiving  and  considering  well  the  reports  of  all, 
"  arrived  at  the  conclusion  that  the  expedition  under 
Sir  John  Franklin  did  not  prosecute  the  object  of  its 
mission  to  the  southward  and  westward  of  Wellington 
Strait." 

The  sledge-parties  for  the  exploration  of  Wellington 
Channel  amounted  to  six,  and  comprised  forty-one  men, 
and  were  officered  by  Captain  Stewart,  Messrs.  Marshall, 
Reid,  and  J.  Stuart,  and  Surgeons  Sutherland  and 
Goodsir.  They  started  on  the  11th  of  April,  under  the 
general  superintendence  of  Captain  Penny  ;  but  they 
soon  encountered  severe  weather,  and  were   buffeted 

^'  ^  24* 


Jf  I 


fi 


■ 

'■',  t  ■ 
/   ;  ■ 


282 


SLEDGING   PARTIES. 


rtiid  bafllcd  by  it  for  a  Bcrios  of  days,  and  coiiipcllod  to 
rtjturn  ;  and  on  the  Gtli  of  May,  after  Kpoeial  prayer  to 
God  for  support  they  again  wtarted.  Some  coursed  so 
lar  and  so  curvingly  as  to  make  a  near  approacii  to  the 
most  northerly  of  Captain  Austin's  parties;  and  all 
(i;^iired  largely  and  respectably  in  the  scpiadron's  aggre- 
gate of  exploits.  But  their  chief  feat —  the  feat,  at  least, 
of  those  on  the  channel  and  west  of  it — was  a  discovery 
which  put  a  stop  to  their  progress  toward  the  north, 
and  gave  an  entirely  new  complexion  to  the  search  in 
which  they  were  engaged,  —  the  discovery  of  a  wide 
westward  strait  of  open  water,  lying  along  the  further 
side  of  the  lands  which  liank  Barrow's  Strait  and  I'arry's 
Strait. 

Captain  Penny  personally  shared  in  this  discovery, 
and  made  great  exertions  to  follow  it  up.  The  explor- 
ers, proceeding  up  Wellington  Channel,  arrived  in 
latitude  15°  22'  at  Capo  Duhorn,  and  thence  ten  miles 
north-westward  to  Point  Decision.  Penny,  on  the  15th 
of  May,  went  from  this  point,  over  the  ice,  north-west 
by  north,  to  an  island  which  he  called  Bailie  Hamil- 
ton Island.  The  ice  was  in  a  very  decayed  state  ;  and 
on  the  nth,  after  travelling  round  the  island,  first  in  a 
north-easterly  and  next  in  a  north-north-westerly  direc- 
tion, he  arrived  at  the  open  strait,  saw  in  it  twenty-five 
miles  of  clear  water,  and  discovered  a  headland  fifteen 
miles  distant,  west  by  north,  over-canopied  by  a  dark 
sky,  which  indicated  an  expanse  of  open  water  on  the 
further  side.  This  point  was  found  to  be  in  latitude  76°  2' 
and  west  longitude  95°  55'  ;  and  the  strait  received  the 
name  of  Victoria  Channel. 

Penny  hastened  back  to  the  ships  for  a  boat,  and  used 
every  exertion  to  have  one  promptly  mounted  on  sledges 
and  sent  forward  ;  but  he  did  not  get  it  up  to  the  strait 
without  vast  effort,  and  some  tantalizing  delays.     But 


KETURN  UOME. 


283 


lit  length  ho  launched  it,  loaded  it,  and  puslicd  ofT.  ITo 
had  proceeded  only  ten  miles,  when  he  wati  oblig'od  to 
seek  refuge  in  a  bay  from  a  westerly  gale  and  a  strong 
head  sea ;  and  he  afterwards  contended  much  and 
almost  constantly  with  unfavorable  winds  and  rapid 
tides  ;  yet  ho  succeeded  in  examining  three  hundred 
and  ten  miles  of  coast,  and  did  not  desist  till  his  stock 
of  provisions  began  to  fail.  Jle  put  about  on  the  2()th 
of  July,  and  made  his  way  to  the  sliips  amid  constant 
rain  and  tempest,  insomuch  that,  in  the  route  over  the 
ice,  he  had  to  ford  rapid  streams. 

Penny  thus  ranks  high  as  a  discoverer  ;  but  as  to  the 
immediate  object  of  his  adventures,  he  had  all  his  labor 
for  nothing,  lie  found  not  a  trace  of  the  Erebus  and 
the  Terror  ;  yet  he  confirmed  his  convictions  that  they 
had  gt)ne  up  Wellington  Channel  and  along  Victoria 
Channel.  • 

The  American  explorers  were  prevented  from  taking 
any  part  in  the  searching  operations  of  the  spring,  by 
their  experiencing  the  same  kind  of  involuntary  ejection 
from  Lancaster  Sound  which  befell  Sir  James  Ross's  ex- 
pedition in  the  Enterprise  and  the  Investigator.  Their 
vessels  were  frozen  in  opposite  Wellington  Channel,  and 
were  carried  thence  to  the  east,  slowly  and  rigidly,  and 
in  stern  defiance  of  all 'possible  resistance  by  man,  to  a 
point  south  of  Capo  Walsingham.  They  drifted  a 
linear  distance  of  at  least  one  thousand  and  fifty  miles, 
and  suffered  much  from  the  commotion  of  the  ice,  and 
were  not  set  free  till  the  10th  of  June. 

Captain  Austin  seems  to  have  concurred  with  Sir  John 
Ross  in  the  opinion  that  the  Erebus  and  the  Terror  had 
gone  back  to  Baffin's  Bay.  After  the  failure  of  searches 
for  further  traces  of  them  west  and  north  of  the  mouth 
of  Wellington  Channel,  Austin  supposed  that  they 
probably  tried  to  reach  the  Polar  Sea  through  Jones's 


1 


lii 


284 


RETURN  HOME. 


Sound,  which  opens  off  the  north  side  of  the  upper  part 
of  Baffin's  Bay.  He  accordingly  wont  round  to  that 
place  with  his  two  steamers,  and  explored  it.  IIo  found 
it  about  sixty  miles  wide  at  the  entrance,  —  a  width 
which  greatly  exceeds  that  given  it  in  the  Admiralty 
charts ;  and  he  sailed  about  forty-five  miles  up  its 
southern  shore,  and  was  there  arrested  by  a  fixed  bar- 
rier of  ice  ;  and  he  then  sailed  along  the  face  of  that 
barrier,  twenty-five  miles,  to  the  northern  shore,  and 
traced  that  shore  down  to  the  entrance.  But  he  saw 
nothing  to  indicate  that  the  Erebus  and  the  Terror  had 
been  there  ;  and  he  judged,  from  well-defined  appear- 
ances to  the  west,  that  the  sound  is  closed  by  land  not 
very  far  above  tlie  point  which  he  reached,  and  has  no 
communication  with  the  Polar  Sea.  lie  then  thought 
all  further  attempts  at  exploration  cither  useless  or 
inconsistent  with  his  instructions,  and  set  sail  for  Eng- 
land, where  he  arrived  in  the  autumn  of  1851. 


ESQUIMAUX  KAVAK. 


ft.  . 


•jili    .(' 


I  '  •  I 


/  .  > 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


further  pautrculaus  of  the  seanciiing  expeditions.  —  sir  john  ross  8 

voyage. results.  carrier-pigeons. — penny's  expedition. dr. 

Sutherland's  scientific  observations.  —  glaciers  and  icebergs.  — 

WINTER    climate.  ANECDOTES.  —  ESylllMAUX  DOGS.  —  USE     OP    SNOW. 

FIRST  GRINNELL    EXPEDITION. —  ADVENTURES  IN    THE    ICE.  —  WINTER 

IN  THE  ARCTIC  OCEAN.  —  DANGEROUS    DRIFTING.  — BREAKING  DP  OF  THE 
ICE. — RETURN.  '  .         ; 


Having  sketched  generally  in  the  last  chapter  the  prog- 
ress of  the  vessels  which  cooperated,  in  1850,  in  pros- 
ecuting the  search  for  Sir  John  Franklin  from  the  direc- 
tion of  Baffin's  Bay,  we  shall  now  take  up  each  expedi- 
tion separately,  and  present  such  further  details  as  may 
tend  to  add  interest  and  completeness  to  our  history  of 
their  proceedings. 

Of  the  four  vessels  comprising  the  squadron  of  Com- 
modore Austin,  and  also  of  the  Prince  Albert,  we  liave 
already  related  all  that  is  important,  concluding  with 
their  safe  return  to  England. 

Sir  John  Ross,  in  the  Felix  discovery  yacht,  with  her 
tender,  the  Mary,  after  obtaining  an  Esquimaux  inter- 
preter at  Ilolsteinborg,  and  calling  at  Whale  Fish 
Islands,  proceeded  northward  through  Waygat's  Straits, 
Jind  overtook  Commodore  Austin's  squadron  on  the  11th 
of  August,  1850.  Arrangements  were  made  with  that 
officer  for  a  combined  examination  of  every  part  of  the 
eastern  side  of  a  north-west  passage,  in  wliich  it  was 
probable  that  the  misshig  ships  could  be  found.     On  the 


286 


SIR  JOHN  ROSS'S  VOYAGE. 


13th  of  August,  in  company  with  Lieut.  Cator  in  the 
Intrepid,  Ross  hold  communication  with  a  party  of  Es- 
quimaux near  Cape  York,  who  told  him  a  story,  the 
purport  of  which,  according  to  his  interpreter,  was  that 
in  the  winter  of  1846  two  ships  were  crushed  in  the  ice 
in  the  direction  of  Cape  Dudley  Digges,  and  afterwards 
burned  by  a  fierce  tribe  of  natives  ;  and  that  their  crews, 
some  of  whom  were  described  as  wearing  epaulets, 
were  subsequently  killed  by  the  natives.  Although 
Mr.  Petersen,  the  interpreter  attached  to  the  Lady 
Franklin,  which  lay  a  few  miles  off,  wholly  discredited 
this  story,  and  gave  a  translation  of  the  Esquimaux  com- 
munication wholly  at  variance  with  the  other,  it  was 
thought  of  sufficient  consequence  by  Capt.  Austin  to 
merit  an  investigation.  Meantime  the  further  informa- 
tion was  received  that  a  ship  had  passed  the  last  winter 
safely  housed  in  Wolstenholme  Sound.  A  party,  taking 
both  interpreters,  was  accordingly  sent  to  examine 
Wolstenholme  Sound  ;  and  by  them  it  was  ascertained 
that  the  ship  which  wintered  there  was  no  other  than 
the  North  Star,  and  that  in  all  probability  that  circum- 
stance was  the  whole  foundation  of  the  Esquimaux 
story,  whatever  it  might  have  been.  Nevertheless,  Sir 
John  Ross,  who  was  long  ago  noted  for  "jumping  at 
conclusions,"  still  seems  to  have  had  a  lingering  belief 
that  in  this  wild  tale  he  had  learned  the  fate  of  the 
Erebu3  and  Terror.  It  was  perhaps  this  belief  which 
led  him  soon  after  to  announce  his  intention  of  return- 
ing to  England :  and  even  after  his  arrival  there  he  is 
said  to  have  adhered  to  his  theory  that  Franklin  and  his 
companions  perished  in  Baffin's  Bay.  He  pressed  on  to 
Cape  Riley,  however,  before  leaving  the  field  of  discov- 
ery, and  bore  his  part  in  the  search  there  made  fur 
traces  of  the  missing  navigators. 

There  is  little  more  to  relate  concerning  his  expedi- 


1 

I 

i  I 


CARllIER-PIGEONS. 


287 


•  in  the 
y  of  Es- 
ory,  the 
^as  that 
1  the  ice 
terwards 
ir  crews, 
jpaulets, 
Although 
he  Lady 
scredited 
aux  com- 
jr,  it  was 
Yustin  to 
informa- 
tst  winter 
by,  taking 
examine 
kcertained 
her  than 
circum- 
squimaux 
eless,  Sir 
imping  at 
ng  belief 
te  of  the 
[ief  which 
of  retm-n- 
here  he  is 
in  and  his 
ssed  on  to 
of  discov- 
made  for 

lis  expedi- 


1 


tion.  The  only  results  of  which  we  have  any  account 
are  stated  by  himself  to  be  that  he  was  able  to  make 
"many  important  corrections  and  valuable  additions  to 
tlie  charts  of  the  much-frequerted  eastern  side  of  Baf- 
fin's Bay,  whicli,"  he  adds,  "has  been  more  closely  ob- 
served and  navigated  by  this  than  by  any  former  expe- 
dition ;  and,  much  to  my  satisfaction,  confirming  the 
latitude  and  longitude  of  every  headland  I  had  the 
opportunity  of  laying  down  in  the  year  1818." 

One  interesting  incident,  however,  is  worthy  of  men- 
tion before  we  take  leave  of  Sir  John  Ross.  When  ho 
left  England  on  this  expedition,  he  took  with  him  four 
carrier-pigeons  belonging  to  a  lady  in  Ayrshire,  intend- 
ing to  liberate  two  of  them  when  the  state  of  the  ice 
rendered  it  necessary  to  lay  his  vessel  up  for  the  winter, 
and  the  other  two  when  he  discovered  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin. A  pigeon  made  its  appearance  at  the  dove-cot  in 
Ayrshire,  on  the  13th  of  October,  which  the  lady  recog- 
nized by  marks  and  circumstances  that  left  no  doubt  on 
her  mind  of  its  being  one  of  the  younger  pair  prcocnted 
by  her  to  Sir  John.  It  carried  no  billet,  but  there  were 
indications,  in  the  loss  of  feathers  on  the  breast,  of  one 
having  been  torn  from  under  the  wing.  Thougli  it  is 
known  that  the  speed  of  pigeons  is  equal  to  one  hun- 
dred miles  an  hour,  the  distance  from  Melville  Island  to 
Ayrshire,  being,  in  a  direct  line,  about  twenty-four  hun- 
dred miles,  is  so  great,  that  evidence  of  the  bird  having 
been  sent  off  as  early  as  the  10th  of  October  was  required 
before  it  could  be  believed  that  no  mistake  was  made  in 
the  identification  of  the  individual  that  came  to  the  dove- 
cot. It  was  afterwards  ascertained  that  Sir  John  Ross 
despatched  the  youngest  pair  on  the  6th  or  Tth  of  Octo- 
ber, 1850,  in  a  basket  suspended  to  a  balloon,  during  a 
W.  N.  W.  gale.  By  the  contrivance  of  a  slow-match,  the 
birds  were  to  be  liberated  at  the  end  of  twenty-four 


288        SUTHERLAND'S  SCIENTIFIC  OBSERVATIONS. 


hours.  The  reader  can  form  his  own  opinion  as  to  the 
identity  of  the  pigeon  in  question. 

We  have  aheady  alluded  to  Captain  Penny's  expedi- 
tion, fitted  out  by  Lady  Franklin.  Ilis  little  vessels, 
the  Lady  Franklin  and  the  Sophia,  entered  Davis's  Strait 
on  the  26th  of  April,  1850  ;  but  they  did  not  get  into 
the  open  water  at  the  head  of  BaflSn's  Bay  until  the  18th 
of  August.  Nearly  four  months  they  were  squeezed 
about  among  the  drifting  ice  in  this  tedious  and  terrible 
passage,  sometimes  closely  wedged  on  the  shore-ioe, 
and  sometimes  tracking  by  manual  labor  tlirough  the 
breaking  pack.  Some  facts  of  a  scientific  interest  are 
mentioned  by  Dr.  Sutherland,  who  accompanied  Penny. 

The  first  great  difficulty  the  Arctic  voyager  has  to 
contend  with  is  the  capricious  state  of  the  navigation 
in  the  grand  approach  to  the  Polar  Sea.  The  melting 
of  the  ice  and  snow  in  the  north  of  Baffin's  Bay  pro- 
duces a  continuous  stream  of  water,  which  flows  stead- 
ily to  the  south.  As  soon  as  this  current  leaves  the 
projecting  points  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  a  thin  film  of 
ice  is  formed  on  it.  This  ice  gets  thicker  and  thicker 
as  it  moves  southwards,  by  congealing  new  layers  of 
sea-water  on  its  under  surface,  and  by  storing  up  snow 
and  sleet  above,  until  it  becomes  what  the  whaler  calls 
the  middle-ice  of  the  bay.  In  winter  it  extends  from 
shore  to  shore  ;  but  in  summer  it  is  separated  from  the 
Greenland  coast  by  an  open  lane  of  water,  in  conse- 
quence of  its  connection  with  tlie  fringe  of  land,  ice  be- 
ing dissolved  where  northerly  winds  prevail.  An  open 
space  of  water  is  always  left  by  this  southward  drift  of 
the  ice-pack  at  the  northern  extremity  of  Baffin's  Bay ; 
the  extent  of  the  space  varies,  however,  with  tlic 
season.  In  winter,  it  is  diminished  by  the  shooting  out 
of  the  land-ice  towards  the  drift,  and  the  quickened  funn- 
ation  of  the  young  ice  ;  in  summer,  it  is  increased  by  the 


GLACLEKS  AND  ICEBERGS. 


289 


s  to  the 

expedi- 
vessels, 
's  Strait 
get  into 
the  ISth 
squeezed 
i  terrible 
diore-ice, 
uugh  the 
erest  are 
:d  Penny. 
;cr  has  to 
lavigation 
lG  melting 
Bay  pro- 
ws stead- 
leaves  the 
tin  film  of 
id  thicker 
layers  of 
up  snow 
aler  calls 
mds  from 
from  the 
in  conse- 
[id,  ice  be- 
An  open 
■d  drift  of 
fin's  Bay; 
with  the 
oting  out 
ned  forin- 
ied  by  the 


breaking  up  of  the  ^nd-ice,  and  the  arrest  of  the  forma- 
tion of  young  ice.  The  great  object  of  the  mariiior 
bound  to  Lancaster  Sound  is  to  push  his  way  through 
the  open  lane  of  water  along  the  Greenland  coast, 
and  to  get  round  the  northern  extremity  of  the  drift- 
ice.  But  he  finds  this  to  be  no  easy  task:  every 
southerly  gale  crushes  the  ice  in  upon  the  shores  of  the 
bay,  and  squeezes  any  unfortunate  vessel  chancing  to 
be  placed  therein  before  it,  often  wedging  it  up  immov- 
ably, or  even  breaking  it  to  pieces  under  the  violence 
of  the  nip.  The  only  resource  of  the  captive  voyager, 
under  such  circumstances,  is  to  seek  a  refuge  beneath 
the  lee  of  some  huge  ice-mountain  that  has  grounded  a 
mile  or  two  off  the  land,  or  to  take  timely  warning,  and 
cut  docks  in  the  solid  land-floe,  into  wliich  he  may  re- 
tire when  the  pressure  comes.  The  driving  iceberg  is, 
however,  a  fearful  neighbor,  if  the  water  prove  not 
shallow  enough  to  arrest  its  movement ;  for  it  will  then 
sometimes  plough  its  onward  way  through  miles  and 
miles  of  field  and  pack  ice,  heaving  up  the  frozen  masses 
before  its  tremendous  impulse,  and  sweeping  every- 
thing away  that  opposes  its  course. 

According  to  Dr.  Sutherland,  there  is  more  chance  of 
an  easy  passage  to  the  open  water  at  the  head  of  Baf- 
fin's Bay  early  in  the  season,  before  the  shore-ice  is 
much  broken,  and  when  the  middle-ice  moves  away 
from  it  bodily,  without  any  intervening  detritus,  than 
later  in  the  season,  when  there  is  a  greater  quantity  of 
loosened  ice  to  be  packed  into  the  channel. 

The  entire  length  of  the  Baffin's  Bay  coast  of  Green- 
land is  indented  with  bays  and  fiords,  towards  which  gla- 
ciers descend  from  the  higher  interior  land.  At  Cape 
Farewell  the  termination  of  the  glacier-ice  is  still  miles 
away  from  the  sea ;  between  Cape  Farewell  and  Cape 
York,  the  land,  devoid  of  the  incursions  of  glacier-ice, 
25 


290 


GLACIERS  AND  ICEBERGS. 


gets  narrower  and  narrower.  North  of  Cape  York  the 
ice-stream  projects  into  the  sea  itself,  even  beyond  the 
line  of  prominent  headlands.  It  is  from  this  region  that 
the  vast  icebergs,  drifted  out  into  the  open  Atlantic  by 
the  southward  current,  are  derived  ;  for  it  is  a  singular 
fact  that  there  is  no  glacier-ice  along  the  shores  west- 
ward of  Lancaster  Sound.  All  the  snow  which  there 
falls,  even  so  far  north  as  tt"  latitude,  escapes  to  the 
sea  in  streams  of  water,  carrying  with  them  vast  quan- 
tities of  mud  and  shingle.  The  land  on  both  sides  of  Bar- 
row's Strait  is  composed  of  limestone  ;  but  Greenland, 
and  the  coasts  which  form  Davis's  Strait,  Baffin's  Bay, 
and  Lancaster  Sound,  where  the  fallen  snow  is  retained 
for  ages  before  it  slips,  as  the  solid  glacier,  back  to  the 
ocean,  are  all  made  of  hard  crystalline  rock.  Dr.  Suth- 
erland thinks  that  this  difference  of  mineral  constitution 
may  in  some  way  affect  the  temperature,  and  so  deter- 
mine the  abundance  of  glaciers  in  the  one  position,  and 
their  absence  in  the  other. 

We  may  here  remark  that  the  ice  which  obstructs  the 
navigation  of  the  Arctic  seas  is  of  two  kinds  :  the  one 
produced  by  the  congelation  of  fresh,  and  the  other  by 
that  of  salt  water.  In  those  inhospitable  tracts,  the 
snow,  which  annually  falls  on  the  islands  or  continents, 
being  again  dissolved  by  the  progress  of  the  summer's 
heat,  pours  forth  numerous  rills  and  limpid  streams, 
which  collect  along  the  indented  shores,  and  in  the  deep 
bays  enclosed  by  precipitous  rocks.  There  this  clear 
and  gelid  water  soon  freezes,  and  every  successive  year 
supplies  an  additional  investing  crust,  till,  after  the 
lapse,  perhaps,  of  several  centuries,  the  icy  mass  rises  at 
last  to  the  size  and  aspect  of  a  mountain,  commensurate 
with  the  elevation  of  the  adjoining  cliffs.  The  melting 
of  the  snow,  which  is  afterwards  deposited  on  such 
enormous  blocks,  likewise  contributes  to  their  growth  ; 


GLAQERS  AND  ICEBERGS. 


291 


[•k  the 
id  tho 
»n  that 
itic  by 
ngular 
J  west- 
1  there 
to  the 
;t  qnan- 
1  of  Bar- 
lenland, 
.'b  Bay, 
retained 
k  to  the 
)r.  Suth- 
stitution 
so  deter- 
tion,  and 


and,  by  filb'ng  np  the  accidental  holes  or  crevices,  it 
renders  the  whole  structure  compact  and  uniform. 
Meanwhile  the  principle  of  destruction  has  already  be- 
gun its  operations.  The  ceaseless  agitation  of  the  sea 
gradually  wears  and  undermines  the  base  of  the  icy 
mountain,  till  at  length,  by  the  action  of  its  own  accu- 
mulated weight,  when  it  has  perhaps  attained  an  alti- 
tude of  a  thousand  or  even  two  thousand  feet,  it  is  torn 
from  its  frozen  chains,  and  precipitated,  with  a  tremen- 
dous plunge,  into  the  abyss  below.  This  mighty  launch 
now  floats  like  a  lofty  island  on  the  ocean  ;  till,  driven 
southwards  by  winds  and  currents,  it  insensibly  wastes 
and  dissolves  away  in  the  wide  Atlantic.  Icebergs  have 
been  known  to  drift  from  Baffin's  Bay  to  the  Azores. 

Such  is  believed  to  be  the  real  origin  of  the  icy 
mountains  or  icebergs,  entirely  similar  in  their  formatioii 
to  the  glaciers  which  occur  on  the  flanks  of  the  Alps  and 
the  Pyrenees.  They  consist  of  a  clear,  compact,  and 
solid  ice,  having  the  fine  green  tint,  verging  to  blue,  which 
ice  or  water,  when  very  pure  and  of  a  sufficient  depth, 
generally  assumes.  From  the  cavities  of  these  icebergs 
the  crews  of  the  northern  whalers  are  accustomed,  by 
means  of  a  hose  or  flexible  tube  of  canvas,  to  fill  their 
casks  easily  with  the  finest  and  softest  water. 

The  projecting  tongues  of  the  glaciers  are  not  dis- 
solved where  they  extend  into  the  sea,  but  broken  off 
by  a  species  of  "flotation."  Heavy  spring-tides  are 
driven  into  the  head  of  the  bay,  and  up  the  fiords,  by 
strong  southerly  winds  ;  and  the  buoyant  ice  is  heaved 
up  by  the  rising  water,  and  broken  ofi"  from  its  parent 
stream.  The  floating  power  of  large  masses  of  ice  must 
be  enormous.  Dr.  Sutherland  observed  ijpon  a  small 
island,  at  an  elevation  of  forty  feet,  a  block  of  granite 
that  measured  sixteen  feet  in  length,  and  must  have 
contained  at  least  one  hundred  and  eighty-six  tons  of 


.y^ 


h 


\ 


292 


GLACIERS  AND  ICEBERGS. 


solid  rock  !  lie  calciilutod  that  a  cube  of  ice,  forty  feet 
across  the  side,  could  easily  have  carried  oft"  this  burden 
in  water  seven  fathoms  deep.  Icebergs  thus  broken  off" 
from  the  parent  glacier  were  often  observed  tumbling 
about  in  the  sea.  Some  of  these  were  four  times  bigger 
than  St.  Paul's  Cathedral,  and  shrouded  themselves  in 
a  veil  of  spray  as  they  rolled  over,  emitting  sounds  that 
could  only  be  compared  to  terrific  thunder-peals,  and 
turning  up  the  blue  mud  from  depths  of  two  and  three 
hundred  fathoms.  Oscillations  in  the  sea  were  pro- 
duced by  such  disturbances,  which,  after  travelling  a 
dozen  miles,  pounded  into  fragments  the  ice-field  on 
which  they  ultimately  fell. 

While  icebergs  are  the  slow  growth  of  ages,  the 
fields  or  shoals  of  saline  ice  are  annually  formed  and 
destroyed.  The  ice  generated  from  melted  snow  is 
hard,  pellucid,  and  often  swells  to  an  enormous  height 
and  dimensions.  But  the  concretion  of  salt  water  wants 
solidity,  clearness,  and  strength,  and  never  attains  to 
any  very  considerable  thickness.  It  seldom  floats  dur- 
ing more  than  part  of  the  year  ;  though,  in  some  cold 
seasons,  the  scattered  fragments  may  be  surprised  by 
the  early  frost,  and  preserved  till  the  following  summer. 

Captain  Penny's  expedition  reached  the  entrance  of 
Wellington  Channel  on  the  25th  of  August.  On  the 
14th  of  September  young  ice  formed  round  the  ships ; 
and  they  were  compelled  to  take  up  their  winter  quar- 
ters in  Assistance  Bay,  near  the  south-west  point  of 
Wellington  Channel.  Captain  Austin's  squadron,  of 
four  ships,  was  fixed  on  Griffith's  Island,  a  few  miles 
further  west.  November  7th,  the  sun  was  beneath  the 
horizon  at  noon,  the  thermometer  was  seven  degrees 
below  zero,  and  the  sea-ice  three  feet  thick.  January 
13th,  mercury  froze  for  the  first  time.  At  the  end  of 
January  the  ice    was   five   feet  thick.     The  sun   rose 


y  feet 
)urdeii 
en  off 
Tibling 
bigger 
Ives  in 
els  that 
Is,   and 
i  three 
re   pro- 
filing a 
field  on 

res,  the 
ned  and 
snow   is 
is  height 
ter  wants 
Ittains  to 
jats  dur- 
)me  cold 
»rised  by 
summer, 
ranee  of 
On  the 
e  ships ; 
ter  quar- 
point  of 
,dron,   of 
;ew  miles 
oath  the 
degrees 
January 
le  end  of 
sun   rose 


%     ''V, 


'■>  ;,    ■,'tiBi*. 


^'1       .\ 


=.*«. 


i 


.:i<!ff 
111' 


'  ■'■'^ji^im-- 


I 


f-l 


.'  .*:m;<  A.vn  t»m-:t'K»v}?* 


*1 


». 


'        .  '      '"<  tiiH.1  ;.  (!.«}••  -r  ire,  f'ti'fv  t'  ft. 
\',|  ..«•,,.    1  »vi'  <  o'f.'-ft  i.u  ;  .  ■  bm'ti-' i 
.  •  ifh   tiis  )«•<••'       1' ','»'(; rL":-*  ti'\..-  lirok.'Ji  crt 
••   i..ir"iu  glacier  wvrn  ol'iou  o^wmvlmI  turnbliiv' 
!       ■■,!..•'•'. -a      Sotii  ^  «.f  tlios' w<T'..' tV.ur  tinjf'Mhii.af-r 
'■    •    -  !     rriura  iJatlfdral,  and  fthr«  .id(  J  tlictu:  'tlven 
■  •. , ,«    )■  sirniy  us  they  rollod    'vcr.  Mnitlirig  ;  'Ui-ds  tliu 
/r.;  f   on'v  h'^  rttm|)uro;!   to  n^rrifl'    '.nnder-pifib,   -iii-i 
h/: '.i:;s?  up  u^''  i'lj'-v  fimd  I'n-nV  (l<  jiH.-;  >>i'  iwo  and  tlire*^ 
.  und-^'d    fu'l'.  u..-.      ')isc.ill:tti<nis    ;!i    tlw    m'H    v^'fvr    p'/u 
dii'td  ;.y  siuiii  «iu,iui!-iiib  OH.   v.  itch.  Jvt'ler  truiv^'lHr.-  « 
iiozon  idHos,  p<»injdcd    ijitu  -fmctrntiiis   l\ui    lce-!'ol<i  Ofi 
\vh'"(  I:  t]t<>y  ulilmately  h^li. 


\Vh 


d"   :('ci)rvu;'fl 


yre    1hf    slow    t.:ro\vt,l)   of  {«; 


th 


lirldrf  (.>r  :*iji>alH  of  MiliiR'  u'.e  ure  {tiii.ually  ftirnied  and 


dostrovi'fi.     The    ice 


>nil'v!    frcMii    nicllc'd    t^iiow 


Ijard,  pclUh-irl  yud  <dtfu  swells  to  an  c.soniinus  height 
and  dJnH.'nsioiis.  Hut:  i.hc  coiicretioji  of  snit  svatcr^^anis 
BoVidity,  cleaiMiosw,  and  ;-!tr<:itj^^tlj,  and  luncr  aU:iifiB  to 
ar?/'  .LTV  oon.siderabic  thiokai>H  -It  sclfl  aa  iioatfi  dur- 
iiiff  mm*'  than   nart  f^f  lU':  yoar  ;  ilioiurh.  in  r^oino  cold 


I'  \ 


Wfi 


irifj-iou  <Jhann»'' 


on 


^iiTT-^-i-  '  ••    -nrpri-icd  by 

■  \  ':!;'  ■  -  -V  ui^i:  punnnifir, 
iti .  I    rviuUrd  thf!  entrance  ot' 

dn    2.>tb  of  Aiir.rnft.     On  th'-: 


u». 


14th  of  Scpii.'mbor  young"  iro   rbriricd  round  the  shipc* 
and  thoy  were  (,<  iMiell'"-*!  to  take  uj*   ihtii-  winter  4 
ters  in  Assistanv^  Bay,  Tienr  the  Boath-v\-(  st  poinl 
VVcilijnrton    Channel.     Cipt.aii;    AnHthrh    tsquadron, 


fo 


nr  s 


hips. 


was  i\\od  on  Griffith".^  iHiand,  a  l'«'w  tni' 


fun  I 
ho! 


KM* 


/est.     Nuvonibcv  Tth.  Jii"  !-»uri  wus  boiieath  thi 


i:'.o!i  at  noon,  iijf.  -I herniome;^;  wan  nevon  (h-gatMs 
bel'>\v  /'oro,  and  t!)''  i«'''::-ic«*  tirti-  ]fV«rt  thick  January 
18(h.  in- i-'Tirv    froze  for   i'-n;  iir^t   tinK:.      At.    tlie  <  n;!    i!" 


Ja')  u 


('.•v 


ih*» 


>.\'as   iive   Jy^'i     hie 


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2? 

o 

5; 


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t;linR   K> 
a  IS  dur- 
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M."  S 


I  or  qUrt.- 
iHl    111': 


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i 


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I 


. 


WINTIIR  CUM  AT  K. 


21  >S 


ubovo  lli(!  Hdutlicni  liori/on  for  an  iiiHtutit  iit  noon, 
Frbnmry  7(li.  l-'rliniiiry  'Jllli  wuh  IIk^  roMcHt  diiy, 
lh(!  Iliriiiidinclcr  Hiiikin^'  luily  livr  dcj^iccH  Ix'low  zero. 
April  JM,  llic  i('(!  WiiH  Hrvcn  fret  lliick.  In  Hm!  iM'^iiinin^- 
of  Miiy  it  iittiiiiKMl  itH  iiiiixiiniiiii   tliicknrHH  of  H(!V<Mt  t'cct 

IlilU)     illcllCH.       iJuiH!     PJMl,    tll(5     tluMIMOUM'tcr    r<»H(!   to   1^)^)°, 

llic  lii^lirHt  point  of  tlic  hcmihoii.  'i'wo  duyH  nl'Uw,  tlm 
(irst    I'ilitl     It'll.       At    tll(!    (Mill    of  .JlllM!    Htiiull  h(i-<>!iiiih  of 

wjit«;r  bc^iiii  to  How  fVotn  tin;  land.  7\t  ilio  end  of  Jnly 
tlio  H<ni-ic(5  wuH  diininiHlidd  in  a  llii(;kn(3HH  of  four  fotit  by 
(lie  nn'lliii^  of  th(?  upper  Hurlii(M».  Au^iirtt,  Mtli,  the  buy- 
ii^o  broko  up,  and  H(!t  tlu;  Hlii|)H  Wvm,  aft(3r  olcvuii 
uiontliH'  cloHt^  (bjtcnlion.  l"'our  dayn  al'tcrvvardM,  tlio 
youn/^'  ico  bc^^an  ii';'ain  lo  rnrni  on  tlio  Hoa  at  ni;^lit. 

Throughout  thin  winlfir  of  intense  eold,  tlu;  tfinipcra- 
tun;  of  the  wea  remained  nearly  unil'orin.  It  never  Hank 
NO  low  as  twenly-nino  (le}^'r(>eM.  A  hole;  wan  kept  open 
lhrou;;h  the  ice,  near  the  Hlii|)H,  for  the  jjurposo  of 
observinj.^*  the  water,  as  well  as  for  notiiMnj^-  the  rino 
and  fall  of  llu!  tid(;H.  The  ico  invariably  increased  its 
thickn<\sH  by  additions  to  its  lower  surliu^o.  As  the 
s(ia-water  iVo/e,  a  considerabUj  [)ortion  of  its  salt  was 
separated  from  it,  and  blown  alouf^  the  surlaco  of  the 
ice,  mixing  with  the  fnish-fallen  snow  as  it  went.  On 
this  account  snow-wreaths  could  never  bo  used  for 
melting  into  water ;  the-  snow  on  the  land  often  con 
taincd  traces  of  salt,  miles  away  from  the  sea.  Tiio 
sea-ice  hardly  over  contained  more  than  one  (j[uarter  the 
quantity  of  salt  found  in  an  equal  volume  of  sea-water. 

The  interior  of  the  ships  was  warmed  to  between 
forty  and  lifty  degrees.  This  was  found  to  bo  the 
highest  limit  of  safety  ;  in  it,  the  hoar-frost  was  never 
thawed  in  the  beds  ;  the  blankets  and  night-caps  of  the 
sleepers  often  adhered  inconveniently  to  the  ships' 
planks.  With  a  higher  temperature,  the  vapor  of  the 
25* 


;.!> 


'■ 

iil 

> 

ilte 

294 


WINTER  CLIMATE. 


interior  of  thtf  ships  was  deposited  in  the  beds  as  moist- 
ure instead  of  ice,  and  then  rheumatic  attacks  were 
troublesome  among  the  crew.  With  this  range,  the 
difference  of  heat  experienced  on  going  into  the  open 
air  often  amounted  to  one  hundred  degrees. 

Much  less  food  was  consumed  during  the  winter's 
rest  than  during  the  labors  of  summer.  On  this  ac- 
count, the  provisions  were  served  out  without  weighing, 
and  considerable  weekly  savings  were  effected.  The 
men  took  instinctively  just  what  nourishment  the  waste 
of  their  bodies  required. 

A  vast  abundance  of  the  lower  forms  of  life  was  found 
everywhere  in  the  inclement  region  in  which  the  ships 
sojourned.  Small  cavities,  from  two  to  six  feet  deep, 
studded  the  under  surface  of  the  sea-ice.  A  greenish, 
slimy  substance,  composed  of  animalcules  and  micro- 
scopic plants,  was  found  in  these.  The  cavities,  in 
fact,  had  been  hollowed  out  by  the  Iiigher  temperature 
attendant  upon  the  vital  action  going  on  in  these  minute 
creatures.  The  most  intense  cold  seemed  to  have  the 
power  of  destroying  some  kinds  of  life-germs.  Mity 
cheese,  th\t  had  been  exposed  throughout  the  winter, 
never  again  manifested  any  return  of  crawling  propen- 
sity. 

The  influence  of  solar  light  was  exceedingly  small 
during  the  depth  of  winter.  A  little  trace  of  daylight 
was  always  perceptible  at  noon;  but  for  seven  days 
before  and  after  the  22d  of  December,  chloride  of  silver 
was  not  blackened  by  exposure  to  the  south  horizon. 
On  the  1st  of  January  it  began  to  assume  a  slight  leaden 
tinge.  Mustard  and  cresses  were  reared  with  great 
care ;  but  the  young  plants  were  composed  of  ninety- 
four  per  cent,  of  water,  and  contained  only  half  the 
quantity  of  nutritious  and  antiscorbutic  matters  that 
had  been  present  in  the  seeds.  .:  .  >;  .  :.,i 


of 

dis 

tli( 

per 

for 

wet 


ESQUIMAUX  DOGS. 


295 


oistr 

ivere 

the 

open 

iter's 
a  ac- 
:hing, 
The 
waste 

found 

ships 
,  deep, 
3enish, 
micro- 
ties,  in 
erature 
minute 
kve  the 
Mity 
winter, 

ropen- 

small 
laylight 
In  days 
If  silver 
lorizon. 
,  leaden 
great 
ninety- 
lialf  the 
trs  that 


The  men  were  kept  amused  during  the  winter  by  the- 
atrical representations,  balls,  and  masquerades,  after 
Captain  Parry's  example  ;  but  the  schools  and  libraries 
were  the  most  valuable  auxiliaries  in  preventing  ennui. 
Geographical  studies  were  especially  popular.  After 
the  nightly  lessons,  it  was  often  necessary  to  settle 
forecastle  disputes  as  to  the  insular  character  of  Cape 
Horn,  the  Roman  Catholic  faith  of  the  Chinese,  and  the 
identity  of  the  crocodiles  of  the  Nile  with  the  alligators 
of  the  Mississippi. 

Far  from  the  least  interesting  members  of  this  Arctic 
community  were  a  kennel  of  Esquimaux  dogs,  that  had 
been  established  in  a  snow-hut  near  the  ships.  The 
four  oldest  had  accompanied  Mi.  Petersen,  the  Danish 
interpreter,  from  Greenland.  But  these  had  thriven 
and  multiplied  amid  the  congenial  scenes  of  ice  and 
snow,  so  that  complete  teams  for  two  sledges  could  be 
furnished  out  in  spring.  They  were  great  favorites 
among  the  seamen,  and  flocked  eagerly  round  the  first 
person  who  emerged  from  the  snow-covered  ships  in 
the  morning.  They  were,  nevertheless,  of  highly  jeal- 
ous temperament ;  for,  if  one  of  them  chanced  to  receive 
more  notice  than  his  companions,  the  lucky  fellow  was 
forthwith  attacked  by  the  rest  of  the  pack.  This  so 
constantly  occurred,  that  some  of  the  cunning  young 
dogs  became  afraid  of  the  men's  caresses,  and  ran  away 
the  moment  any  marked  demonstrations  of  kindness 
were  directed  towards  them. 

In  many  points,  amusing  instances  of  the  adaptation 
of  canine  instinct  to  the  necessities  of  Arctic  life  were 
displayed.  In  fine,  sunny  weather,  the  dogs  satisfied 
thoir  thirst  by  lapping  the  surface  snow  ;  but  in  colder 
periods  of  the  season  they  burrowed  some  inches  down 
for  their  supply  of  frozen  water.  In  extremely  severe 
weather,  they  constantly  coiled  themselves  closely  up, 


u 


296 


ESQUIMAUX  DOGS. 


and  covered  their  noses  with  the  shagj^y  fur  of  their 
tails.  At  these  times,  they  never  rose  even  to  shake 
oft'  the  accumulating  wreaths  of  falling  snow ;  if  their 
masters  called  them,  they  answered  by  turning  their 
eyes,  but  without  removing  their  natural  respirators 
from  their  nostrils,  and  no  demonstration,  short  of  a 
determined  kick,  could  make  them  shift  their  quarters  ; 
but,  at  other  times,  they  lay  stretched  out  at  full  length, 
and  were  on  their  legs  in  obedience  to  the  first  lone  of 
a  familiar  voice. 

The  young  dogs  had  to  learn  some  painful  expe- 
riences. The  first  time  they  were  taken  to  the  open 
water,  they  mistook  it  for  ice,  coolly  walked  into  it, 
and  were  nearly  drowned.  One  poor  fellow  undertook 
to  lick  a  tempting  morsel  of  fat  from  an  iron  shovel, 
when,  greatly  to  his  surprise,  the  cold  metal  stuck  fast 
to  his  tongue,  and  he  dragged  the  shovel  along  for  some 
distance,  at  last  only  extricating  himself  from  it  by  a 
strong  efibrt,  and  at  the  expense  of  leaving  some  inches 
of  mucous  membrane  behind  him.  When  the  dogs 
were  employed  in  sledging-work,  it  was  no  uncommon 
thing  for  them  to  start  off  with  their  loads  in  full  pur- 
suit of  bears.  In  the  spring,  two  carrier-pigeons  were 
despatched  in  the  car  of  a  small  balloon.  The  balloon 
fell  upon  the  ice,  while  still  in  sight,  and  dragged  along 
for  some  distance.  An  object  that  was  so  full  of  interest 
to  their  masters  could  not,  by  any  means,  be  slighted 
by  the  dogs  ;  in  a  moment  they  were  all  off  after  it,  the 
men  following  them  pell-mell  to  save  the  pigeons.  The 
four-footed  animals  had  by  far  the  best  of  the  race  ;  but 
the  balloon,  fortunately  for  its  freight,  cleared  the  edge 
of  the  ice  just  as  they  came  up  with  it.  When  the  ice 
around  the  ships  broke  up,  the  dogs  understood  the 
indication,  and  galloped  about  in  mad  joy,  leaping  from 
piece  to  piece,  and  whining  restlessly,  or  swimming 


USE  OF  SNOW. 


297 


f  their 
shake 
f  their 
T  their 
)irators 
rt  of  a 
alters ; 
length, 
lone  of 

i\  expe- 
he  open 
into  it, 
idertook 
shovel, 
:uck  fast 
for  some 
L  it  by  a 
le  inches 
he   dogs 
common 
full  pur- 
ns  were 
balloon 
■ed  along 
interest 
slighted 
iv  it,  the 
IS.     The 
ice ;  but 
Ithe  edge 
the  ice 
Itood  the 
iing  from 
rimming 


round  the  ship  until  they  were  picked  up  and  established 
upon  the  decks.  •  ' 

The  Esquimaux  dog  is  described  as  resembling  in 
form  the  shepherd's  dog,  rising  to  the  height  of  the 
Newfoundland,  but  broad  like  the  mastiff;  having  short 
pricked  ears,  a  furry  coat,  and  a  bushy  tail.  In  general 
they  are  observed  to  bear  a  strong  resemblance  to  the 
wolf,  and  the  opinion  is  even  prevalent  that  the  former 
exhibit  only  the  latter  in  a  tamed  state  ;  but  the  avidity 
with  which  the  wolf  devours  his  supposed  brethren  does 
not  seem  quite  consistent  with  so  close  an  affinity. 
Frequent  beatings  are  necessary  to  train  these  dogs  for 
acting  as  a  regular  team.  But  their  greatest  sufferings 
respect  the  want  of  food.  Captain  Parry  saw  one  which 
ate  a  large  piece  of  canvas,  a  cotton  handkerchief  laid 
out  to  dry,  and  a  piece  of  a  linen  shirt.  When  these 
animals  are  yoked  in  the  sledge,  a  whip  of  twenty  feet 
long  enforces  obedience  ;  while  peculiar  cries  indicate 
the  right  or  left,  to  turn,  or  to  stop. 

A  singular  fact  is  related  in  Dr.  Sutherland's  journal 
in  regard  to  the  use  of  snow  for  allaying  thirst :  "  'The 
use  of  snow  when  persons  are  thirsty  does  not  by  any 
means  allay  the  insatiuble  desire  for  water  ;  on  the  con- 
trary, it  appears  to  be  increased  in  proportion  to  the 
quantity  used,  and  the  frequency  with  which  it  is  put 
into  the  mouth.  For  example  :  a  person  walking  along 
feels  intensely  thirsty,  and  he  looks  to  his  feet  with 
coveting  eyes  ;  but  his  sense  and  firm  resolutions  are 
not  to  be  overcome  so  easily,  and  he  withdraws  the? 
open  hand  that  was  to  grasp  the  delicious  morsel  and 
convey  it  into  his  parching  mouth.  He  has  several 
miles  of  a  journey  to  accomplish,  and  his  thirst  is  every 
moment  increasing ;  he  is  perspiring  profusely,  and 
feels  quite  hot  and  oppressed.  At  length  his  good  res- 
olutions stagger,  and  he  partakes  of  the  smallest  par- 


i& 


298 


FIRST  GRINNELL  EXPEDITION. 


.1. 


tide,  which  produces  a  most  exhilanitiug  effect ;  in  leas 
than  ten  minutes  he  tastes  again  and  again,  always 
increasing  the  quantity  ;  and  in  half  an  hour  ho  has  a 
gum-stick  of  condensed  snow,  which  he  masticates  with 
avidity,  and  rephices  witli  assiduity  the  moment  that  it 
has  melted  away.  But  his  thirst  is  not  allayed  in  the 
slightest  degree ;  he  is  as  hot  as  ever,  and  still  per- 
spires;  ;  ;,-'  mouth  is  in  flames,  and  he  is  driven  to  the 
necessity  of  quenching  them  with  snow,  which  adds 
fuel  to  the  fire.  The  melting  snow  ceases  to  please  ti\e 
palate,  and  it  feels  like  red-hot  coals,  which,  like  a  fire 
cater,  he  shifts  about  with  his  tongue,  and  swaiiows 
without  the  addition  of  saliva.  He  is  in  despair ;  but 
habit  has  taken  the  place  of  his  reasoning  faculties,  and 
lie  moves  on  with  languid  steps,  lamenting  the  severe 
fate  which  forces  him  to  persist  in  a  practice  which  in 
an  unguarded  moment  he  allowed  to  begin.  ...  I 
believe  the  true  cause  of  such  intense  tliirst  is  the  ex- 
treme dryness  of  the  air  when  the  temperature  is  low." 

The  result  of  Captain  Penny's  labors,  so  far  as  explor- 
ation is  concerned,  is  already  known.  Sledging  parties 
went  out  in  the  spring.  A  large  whaling-boat  was 
dragged  bodily  up  Wellington  Channel,  and  launched 
in  the  clear  water  beyond  the  ice-barrier.  Two  thou- 
sand miles  w^ere  travelled  over,  seven  hundred  and  ten 
of  which  were  in  districts  seen  for  the  first  time  by  human 
e^^es.  No  further  traces  of  the  missing  expedition  were, 
however,  found.  The  Lady  Franklin  and  Sophia  left 
Assistance  Bay,  homeward  bound,  on  the  12th  of  Au- 
gust ;  five  weeks  afterwards,  they  were  in  the  Thames. 

We  have  seen  that  Mr.  GrinnelFs  expedition  was 
undertaken  with  two  small  brigs  —  the  Advance  and  the 
Rescue.  The  Advance  was  intended  originally  for  car- 
rying heavy  castings  from  an  iron  foundery.  Both  ves- 
sels were  strengthened  with  great  skill  and  at  large 


in  leas 
always 
3  has  a 
cs  with 
,  that  it 
in  the 
till  per- 
1  to  the 
3h  adds 
3ase  the 
[e  a  fire 
waiiOWS 
air;  but 
ties,  and 
c  severe 
which  in 
.     .     I 
5  the  ex- 
is  low." 
s  explor- 
g  parties 
oat  was 
aunched 
o  thou- 
and  ten 
IV  human 
on  were, 
[phia  left 
li  of  Au- 
Chanies. 
tion  was 
and  the 
for  car- 
Joth  ves- 
lat  large 


FIRST  GRINNELL  EXPEDITION. 


299 


expense  for  the  Arctic  service.  The  vessels  were 
placed  under  the  command  of  Lieut.  De  Haven.  His 
officers  consisted  of  Mr.  Murdoch,  sailing-master ;  Dr. 
E.  K.  Kane,  surgeon  and  naturalist;  and  Mr.  Lovell, 
midshipman.  The  Advance  had  a  crew  of  twelve  men 
when  she  sailed  ;  but  two  of  them  complaining  of  sick- 
ness, and  expressing  a  desire  to  return  home,  were  left 
at  the  Danish  settlement  at  Disco  Island,  on  the  coast 
of  Greenland. 

The  expedition  passed  the  eastern  extremity  of  New- 
foundland, June  3d,  1850,  ten  days  after  leaving  Sandy 
Hook,  and  then  sailed  east-north-east,  directly  for  Cape 
Comfort,  on  the  coast  of  Greenland.  The  weather  was 
generally  fine  ;  and  only  a  single  accident  occurred  on 
the  voyage  to  that  country  of  frost  and  snow.  Off*  the 
coast  of  Labrador  they  met  an  iceberg  making  its  way 
toward  the  tropics.  The  night  was  very  dark  ;  and  the 
Advance,  going  at  the  rate  of  seven  or  eight  knots  an 
hour,  ran  against  the  huge  voyager,  and  lost  her  jib- 
boom. 

The  voyagers  did  not  land  at  Cape  Comfort,  but, 
turning  northward,  sailed  along  the  south-west  coast  of 
Greenland,  sometimes  in  an  open  sea,  and  sometimes  in 
the  midst  of  broad  acres  of  broken  ice  (particularly  in 
Davis's  Straits),  as  far  as  Whale  Island.  From  this 
place  a  boat,  with  two  officers  and  four  seamen,  was 
sent  to  Disco  Island,  a  distance  of  about  twenty-six 
miles,  to  a  Danish  settlement  there,  to  procure  skin 
clothing  and  other  articles  necessary  for  use  during  the 
rigors  of  a  polar  winter.  The  officers  were  entertained 
at  the  government  house,  while  the  seamen  were  com- 
fortably lodged  with  the  Esquimaux,  sleeping  in  fur 
bags  at  night.  They  returned  to  the  ship  the  following 
day,  and  the  expedition  proceeded  on  its  voyage. 
When  passing  the  little  Danish  settlement  of  Uper- 


II 


I 


300 


FIRST  GRINNELL  EXPEDITION. 


navik,  they  were  boarded  by  natives  for  the  first  time. 
They  were  out  iu  government  whale-boats,  hunting  for 
ducks  and  seals.  These  hardy  children  of  the  Arctic 
Circle  were  not  shy,  for  through  the  Danes,  the  Fnglish 
whalers,  and  government  expeditions,  they  had  become 
acquainted  with  men  of  other  latitudes.  ,    ■■  ■    .-.v.„ 

When  the  expedition  reached  Melville  Bay,  which, 
on  account  of  its  fearful  character,  is  also  called  the 
Devil's  Nip,  the  voyagers  began  to  witness  more  of  the 
grandeur  and  perils  of  Arctic  scenes.  Icebergs  of  all 
dimensions  came  bearing  down  from  the  polar  seas  like 
vast  squadrons,  and  the  roar  of  their  rending  came 
over  the  waters  like  the  booming  of  the  heavy  broad- 
sides of  contending  navies.  They  also  encountered 
immense  floes,  with  only  narrow  channels  between ; 
and  at  times  their  situation  was  exceedingly  perilous. 

On  one  occasion,  after  heaving  through  fields  of  ice 
for  five  consecutive  weeks,  two  immense  floes,  between 
which  they  were  making  their  way,  gradually  approached 
each  other ;  and  for  several  hours  they  expected  their 
tiny  vessels  —  tiny  when  compared  with  the  mighty 
objects  around  them  —  would  be  crushed.  An  immense 
calf  of  ice,  six  or  eight  feet  thick,  slid  under  the  Rescue, 
lifting  her  almost  "high  and  dry,"  and  careening  her 
partially  upon  her  beam  ends.  By  means  of  ice-anchors 
(large  iron  hooks)  they  kept  her  from  capsizing.  In 
this  position  they  remained  about  sixty  hours,  when, 
with  saws  and  axes,  they  succeeded  in  relieving  her. 
The  ice  now  opened  a  little,  and  they  finally  warped 
through  into  clear  water.  While  they  were  thus  con- 
fined, polar  bears  came  around  them  in  abundance, 
greedy  for  prey,  and  the  seamen  indulged  a  little  in  the 
perilous  sports  of  the  chase. 

..,t  The  open  sea  continued  but  a  short  time,  when  they 
again  became  entangled  among  bergs,  floes,  and  hum- 


m 


FIItST  GRINNELL  EXPEDITION. 


301 


'U 


mocks,  and  encountered  the  most  fearful  perils.  Some- 
times they  anchored  their  vessels  to  icebergs,  and  some- 
times to  floes  and  to  masses  of  hummock.  On  one  of 
these  occasions,  while  the  cook,  an  active  Frenchman, 
was  upon  a  berg,  making  a  place  for  an  anchor,  the 
mass  of  ice  split  beneath  him,  and  he  was  dropped 
through  the  yawning  fissure  into  the  water,  a  distance 
of  almost  thirty  feet.  Fortunately,  the  masses,  as  is 
often  the  case,  did  not  close  up  again,  but  floated  apart, 
and  the  poor  cook  was  hauled  on  board  more  dead  than 
alive,  from  excessive  fright.  It  was  in  this  fearful 
region  that  they  lirst  encountered  pack-ice,  and  there 
they  were  locked  in  from  the  tth  to  the  23d  of  July. 

While  in  this  situation  they  were  joined  by  the  British 
yacht  Prince  Albert,  under  Captain  Forsyth,  and  to- 
gether the  three  vessels  were  anchored,  for  a  while,  to 
an  immense  field  of  ice,  in  sight  of  the  Devil's  Thumb,  a 
high,  rocky  peak,  situated  in  latitude  74°  22'.  It  was 
now  about  thirty  miles  distant,  and,  with  the  dark  hills 
adjacent,  presented  a  strange  aspect  where  all  was 
white  and  glittering.  The  peak  and  the  hills  are  masses 
of  rock,  with  occasionally  a  lichen  or  a  moss  growing 
upon  their  otherwise  naked  surfaces.  In  the  midst  of 
the  vast  ice-field  loomed  up  many  lofty  bergs,  all  of  them 
in  slow  and  majestic  motion. 

From  the  Devil's  Thumb  the  American  vessels  passad 
onward  through  the  pack  toward  Sabine's  Islands, 
while  the  Prince  Albert  essayed  to  make  a  more  west- 
erly course.  They  reached  Gape  York  at  the  beginning 
of  August.  Far  across  the  ice,  landward,  they  discov- 
ered, through  their  glasses,  several  men,  apparently 
making  signals  ;  and  for  a  while  they  rejoiced  in  the 
belief  that  they  saw  a  portion  of  Sir  John  Franklin's 
companions.  Four  men  were  despatched,  with  a  whale- 
boat,  to  reconnoitre.     They  soon  discovered  the  men  to 

26 


802 


FIBST  GRINNELL  EXPEDITION. 


be  Esquimaux,  who,  by  signs,  professed  great  friend- 
ship, and  endeavored  to  get  the  voyagers  to  accompany 
them  to  their  homes  beyond  the  hills.  They  declined  ; 
and,  as  soon  as  they  returned  to  the  vessel,  the  expedi- 
tion again  pushed  forward,  and  made  its  way  to  Cape 
Dudley  Digges,  which  they  reached  on  the  tth  of 
August. 

At  Cape  Dudley  Digges  they  sighted  the  Crimson 
Cliffs,  a  name  suggested  by  the  patches  of  red  snow, 
which  in  the  distance  impart  a  rose-hue  color  to  the 
acclivities.  Those  lofty  cliffs  are  of  dark  brown  stone. 
It  was  a  magnificent  sight,  in  that  cold  region,  to  see 
such  an  apparently  warm  object  standing  out  in  bold 
relief  against  the  dark  blue  back-ground  of  a  polar  sky. 
This  was  the  most  northern  point  ti)  which  the  expedi- 
tion penetrated.  The  whole  coast  which  they  had 
passed  from  Disco  to  this  cape  is  high,  rugged,  and 
barren,  only  some  of  the  low  points,  stretching  into  the 
sea,  bearing  a  species  of  dwarf  fir.  North-east  from  the 
cape  rise  the  Arctic  Highlands,  to  an  unknown  altitude  ; 
and,  stretching  away  northward,  was  the  then  unex- 
plored Smith's  Sound,  filled  with  impenetrabh  ice. 

From  Cape  Dudley  Digges,  the  Advance  and  Rescue, 
beating  against  wind  and  tide  in  the  midst  of  the  icv3- 
fields,  made  Wolstenholme  Sound,  and  then,  changing 
their  course  to  the  south-west,  emerged  from  the  fields 
into  the  open  waters  of  Lancaster  Sound,  Here,  on  the 
18th  of  August,  1850,  they  encountered  a  tremendous 
gale,  which  lasted  about  twenty-four  hours.  The  two 
vessels  parted  company  during  the  storm,  and  remained 
separate  several  days.  Across  Lancaster  Sound,  the 
Advance  made  her  way  to  Barrow's  Straits,  and  on  the 
22d  discovered  the  Prince  Albert  on  the  southern  shore 
of  the  straits,  near  Leopold  Island,  a  mass  of  lofty,  pre- 
cipitous rocks,  dark  and  barren,  and  hooded  and  draped 


HRST  GRINNELL  EXPEDITION. 


303 


ricnd- 
ipany 
ined ; 
xpedi- 
»  Cape 
th  of 

rimson 

snow, 

to  the 

stone. 
,  to  see 
in  bold 
lar  sky. 
expedi- 
ey  had 
;ed,  and 
into  the 
rom  the 
Ititude  -, 
n  unex- 

!e.    ' 

Rescue, 

the  ice- 
langing 
le  fields 

^,  on  the 
lendous 
Che  two 
3mained 
|ind,  the 
on  the 
rn  shore 

|fty,  pre- 
draped 


with  snow.  The  weather  was  fine,  and  soon  the  officers 
and  crews  of  the  two  vessels  met  in  friendly  greeting. 
Those  of  the  Prince  Albert  wore  much  astonished  at  the 
encounter.  They  had  left  the  Americans  in  Melville 
Bay  on  the  6th,  pressing  northward  through  the  pack ; 
and  could  not  conceive  how  they  so  soon  and  safely 
penetrated  it,  when  the  Prince,  though  towed  by  a 
steamer,  had  made  such  poor  progress.  Captain  For- 
syth had  attempted  to  reach  a  particular  point,  where 
he  intended  to  remain  through  the  winter ;  but,  finding 
the  passage  thereto  completely  blocked  up  with  ice,  he 
had  resolved,  on  the  very  day  when  the  Americans 
appeared,  to  return  home. 

The  two  vessels  remained  together  a  day  or  two, 
when  they  parted  company,  the  Prince  Albert  to  return 
to  England,  and  the  Advance  to  make  further  explora- 
tions. Ofi"  Leopold  Island,  on  the  23d  of  August,  the 
Advance  took  the  lead  through  the  vast  masses  of  float- 
ing ice.  "  The  way  was  before  them,"  says  Mr.  Snow, 
of  the  Prince  Albert,  who  stood  upon  the  deck  of  the 
Advance ;  "  the  stream  of  ice  had  to  be  either  gone 
through  boldly,  or  a  long  detour  made  ;  and,  despite  the 
heaviness  of  the  stream,  they  pushed  the  vessel  through 
in  her  proper  course.  Two  or  three  shocks,  as  she  came 
in  contact  with  some  large  pieces,  were  unheeded  ;  and 
the  moment  the  last  block  was  past  the  bow,  the  officer 
sang  out,  *  So  I  steady  as  she  goes  on  her  course  ; '  and 
came  aft  as  if  nothing  more  than  ordinary  sailing  had 
been  going  on.  I  observed  our  own  little  bark  nobly 
following  in  the  American's  wake  ;  and,  as  I  afterward 
learned,  she  got  through  it  pretty  well,  though  not  with- 
out much  doubt  of  the  propriety  of  keeping  on  in  such 
procedure  after  the  '  mad  Yankee,'  as  he  was  called  by 
Our  mate." 

From  Leopold  Island  the  Advance  proceeded  to  the 


304 


FIRST  GRINNELL  EXPEDITION. 


noi*  "'-west,  and  on  the  25th  reached  Cape  Eiloy,  anotlier 
amorphous  mass,  not  so  roguhir  and  precipitate  as 
Leopold  Lshmd,  but  more  lofty.  Here  a  strouj^  tide, 
settiuf^  ill  to  the  shore,  drifted  the  Advance  toward  the 
beach,  where  she  stranded.  Around  her  were  small 
bergs  and  large  masses  of  floating  ice,  all  under  the 
influence  of  the  strong  current.  It  was  about  two 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon  when  she  struck.  By  diligent 
labor  in  removing  everything  from  her  deck  to  a  small 
floe,  she  was  so  lightened,  that  at  four  o'clock  the  next 
morning  she  floated,  and  soon  everything  was  properly 
replaced. 

Near  Cape  Riley  the  Americans  fell  in  with  a  portion 
of  an  English  expedition  ;  and  there  also  the  Rescue, 
left  behind  in  the  gale  in  Lancaster  Sound,  overtook  the 
Advance.  There  was  Captain  Penny,  with  the  Sophia 
and  Lady  Franklin  ;  the  veteran  Sir  John  Ross,  with 
the  Felix,  and  Commodore  Austin,  with  his  flag-ship 
the  Resolute.  Together  the  navigators  of  both  nations 
explored  the  coast  at  and  near  Cape  Riley,  and  on  the 
21th  they  saw  in  a  cove  on  the  shore  of  Becchey  Island, 
or  Beechey  Cape,  on  the  east  side  of  the  entrance  to 
Wellington  Channel,  unmistakable  evidence  that  Sir 
John  Franklin  and  his  companions  were  there  in  April, 
1846.  There  they  found  the  articles  known  to  belong 
to  Franklin's  ships,  as  described  in  the  preceding  chap- 
ter. They  also  visited  the  graves,  the  inscriptions  on 
which  we  have  already  given. 

How  much  later  than  April  3d  (the  date  upon  one  of 
the  head-boards)  Franklin  remained  at  Beechey,  cannot 
be  determined.  There  were  evidences  of  his  having 
gone  northward,  for  sledge-tracks  in  that  direction  were 
visible.  It  was  the  opinion  of  Dr.  Kane  that,  on  the 
breaking  up  uf  the  ice  in  the  spring.  Sir  John  Franklin 
passed  northward  with  his  ships  through  Wellington 


FIIIST  GRINNKLL   EXl'EDITION. 


305 


other 
te   as 

tide, 
rd  tlio 

small 
iY  the 
t  two 
ili{2,-cut 
1,  small 
e  next 
■operly 

portion 

Icsciie, 

3 ok  the 
Sophia 

39,  with 
ag-sliip 
nations 
on  the 
Island, 
ance  to 
lat   Sir 
II  April, 
belong 
g  chap- 
ions  on 

one  of 
cannot 
having 

on  were 
on  the 
ranklin 

[UingtoQ 


Channel  into  the  great  polar  basin,  and  that  he  did  not 
return.  This,  too,  was  tlie  opinion  of  Captain  Fenny, 
who  zealously  urged  the  Britisii  government  to  send  a 
powerful  screw  steamer  to  pass  through  that  ciiaiinel 
and  explore  the  coasts  beyond. 

Leaving  Beechey  Cape,  the  American  expedition 
forced  its  way  tlirough  tlie  ice  to  Barlow's  Inlet,  where 
they  narrowly  escaped  being  frozen  in  for  tiic  winter. 
They  endeavored  to  enter  the  inlet,  for  the  purpose  of 


ADVANCE   AND   RESCUE    IN    BAULOW's   INLKT. 


making  it  their  winter  quarters,  but  were  prevented  by 
the  mass  of  pack-ice  at  its  entrance. 

It  was    on  the  4th  of  September,  1850,  when    the 
Advance  and  Rescue  arrived  at  Barlow's  Inlet ;   but, 

26* 


& 


I 


806 


FIRST  GRINNELL  EXPEDI'nON. 


hS)'"* 


after  rcrnaiiiinj^  Hcveii  or  eight  diiys,  tlicy  abuiiduiied  the 
attempt  to  enter.  On  the  right  and  left  of  the  entrance 
were  dark  rocks,  in  the  centre  the  frozen  waters,  and 
beyond,  a  range  of  hills.  There  was  nuich  smooth  ice 
within  the  inlet,  and,  while  the  vessels  lay  anchored  to 
the  "  field,"  officers  and  crew  exercised  and  amused 
themselves  by  skating.  On  the  left  of  the  inlet  they 
discovered  a  cairn  (a  heap  of  stones  with  a  cavity), 
eight  or  ten  feet  in  height,  which  was  erected  by  Capt. 
Ommaney,  of  the  English  expedition  then  in  the  polar 
waters.  Within  it  he  had  placed  two  letters,  for  "  whom 
it  might  concern."  Commander  De  Haven  also  depos- 
ited a  letter  there.  It  is  believed  to  be  the  only  post- 
office  in  the  world  free  for  the  use  of  all  nations.  The 
rocks  here  presented  vast  fissures  made  by  the  frost ; 
and  at  the  foot  of  the  clill'  on  the  right  that  powerful 
agent  had  cast  down  vast  heaps  of  debris. 

From  Barlow's  Inlet  the  American  expedition  moved 
slowly  westward,  battling  with  the  ice  every  rood  of 
the  way,  until  they  reached  Griffin's  Island,  at  about 
96°  west  longitude  from  Greenwich.  This  was  attained 
on  the  11th  of  September,  and  was  the  extreme  westing 
made  by  the  expedition.  All  beyond  seemed  impene- 
trable ice  ;  and,  despairing  of  making  any  further  dis- 
coveries before  the  winter  should  set  in,  they  resolved 
to  return  home.  Turning  eastward,  they  hoped  to  reach 
Davis's  Straits  by  the  southern  route,  before  the  cold 
and  darkness  came  on  ;  but  they  were  doomed  to  disap- 
pointment. Near  the  entrance  to  Wellington  Channel 
they  became  completely  locked  in  by  hummock-ice,  and 
soon  found  themselves  drifting  with  an  irresistible  tide 
up  that  channel  toward  the  pole. 

Now  began  the  most  perilous  adventures  of  the  navi- 
gators. The  summer  day  was  drawing  to  a  close  ;  the 
diurnal  visits  of  the  pale  sun  were  rapidly  shortening, 


FIRST  GRINNELL  EXPEDITION. 


307 


lod  the 
itruuce 
1*8,  aiul 
oth  i»'c 
orod  to 
amuBcd 
ct  thoy 
cavity), 
)y  Capt. 
lie  polar 
"whom 
0  depos- 
ily  post- 
is.     The 
10  frost; 
powerful 

n  moved 
rood  of 

at  about 
attained 
westing 
impenc- 
ther  dis- 
resolved 
to  reach 
the  cold 
to  disap- 
Channel 
-ice,  and 
tible  tide 

tho  navi- 
lose;  the 
ortening, 


and  soon  the  long  polar  night,  with  all  itH  darkiioss  and 
horrors,  would  fall  upon  thorn.  Slowly  thoy  drifted  in 
those  vast  lields  of  ice,  whither,  or  to  what  result,  thoy 
knew  not.  Locked  in  the  moving  yet  compact  mass ; 
liable  every  moment  to  be  crushed  ;  far  away  from  land ; 
the  mercury  sinking  daily  lower  and  lower  from  the  zero 
figure,  toward  the  point  where  that  metal  freezes,  thoy 
felt  small  hope  of  ever  reaching  home  again.  Yet  they 
prepared  for  winter  comforts  and  winter  sports,  as  cheer- 
fully as  if  lying  safe  in  Barlow's  Inlet.  As  the  winter 
advanced,  the  crews  of  both  vessels  went  on  board  the 
larger  one.  They  unshipped  the  rudders  of  each  to 
prevent  their  being  injured  by  the  ice,  covered  the  deck 
of  the  Advance  with  felt,  prepared  their  stores,  and 
made  arrangements  for  enduring  the  long  winter,  now 
upon  them.  I'liysical  and  mental  activity  being  neces- 
sfi-ry  for  the  preservation  of  licalth,  they  daily  exercised 
in  the  open  air  for  several  hours.  They  built  ice  huts, 
hunted  the  huge  white  bears  and  the  little  polar  foxes, 
and,  during  the  darkness  of  the  winter  night,  they 
arranged  in-door  amusements  and  employments. 

Before  the  end  of  October,  the  sun  made  its  appear- 
ance for  the  last  time,  and  the  awful  polar  night  closed 
in.  Early  in  November  they  wholly  abandoned  the 
Rescue,  and  both  crews  made  the  Advance  their  perma- 
nent winter  home.  The  cold  soon  became  intense  ;  the 
mercury  congealed,  and  the  spirit  thermometer  indi- 
cated 46"  below  zero.  Its  average  range  was  30°  to 
35°.  They  had  drifted  helplessly  up  Wellington  Chan- 
nel almost  to  the  latitude  from  whence  Captain  Penny 
saw  an  open  sea,  supposed  to  be  the  great  polar  basin, 
where  there  is  a  more  genial  clime  than  that  which  inter- 
venes between  the  Arctic  Circle  and  the  T5th  degree. 
Here,  when  almost  in  sight  of  the  open  ocean,  that 
mighty  polar  tide,  with  its  vast  masses  of  ice,  suddenly 


ii 


I 


308 


FIRST  GRINNELL  EXPEDITION. 


I :« 


ebbed,  and  our  little  vessels  were  carried  back,  as  resist- 
lessly  as  before,  through  Barrow's  Straits,  iuto  Lancaster 
Sound.  All  this  while  the  immense  fields  of  hummock- 
ice  were  moving',  and  the  vessels  were  in  hourly  danger 
of  being  crushed  and  destroyed.  At  length,  while  drift- 
ing through  Barrow's  Straits,  the  congealed  mass,  as  if 
crushed  together  by  the  opposite  shores,  became  more 
compact,  and  the  Advance  was  elevated  almost  seven 
feet  by  the  stern,  and  keeled  two  feet  eight  inches,  star- 
board. In  this  position  she  remained,  with  very  little 
alteration,  for  five  consecutive  months  ;  for,  soon  after 
entering  Baffin's  Bay  in  the  midst  of  the  winter,  the  ice 
became  frozen  in  one  immense  tract,  covering  millions 
of  acres. 

Thus  frozen  in,  sometimes  more  than  a  hundred  miles 
from  land,  they  drifted  slowly  along  the  south-west  coast 
of  Baffin's  Bay,  a  distance  of  more  than  a  thousand  miles 
from  Wellington  Channel,  Tor  eleven  weeks  that 
dreary  night  continued,  and  during  that  time  the  disc  of 
the  sun  was  never  seen  above  the  horizon.  Yet  nature 
was  not  wholly  forbidding  in  aspect.  Sometimes  the 
aurora  borealis  would  flash  up  still  further  northward ; 
and  sometimes  mock  suns  and  mock  moons  would  appear, 
in  varied  beauty,  in  the  starry  sky.  Brilliant,  too,  were 
the  northern  constellations  ;  and  when  the  real  moon 
was  at  its  full,  it  made  its  stately  circuit  in  the  heavens 
without  descending  below  the  horizon,  and  lighted  up 
the  vast  piles  of  ice  with  a  pale  lustre,  almost  as  vivid 
as  the  morning  twilights  of  more  genial  skies. 

Around  the  vessels  the  crews  built  a  wall  of  ice  ;  and 
in  ice  huts  they  stowed  away  their  cordage  and  stores,  to 
make  room  for  exercise  on  the  decks.  They  organized  a 
theatrical  company,  and  amused  themselves  and  the  offi- 
cers with  comedy  well  performed.  Behind  the  pieces  of 
hummock  eacli  actor  learned  his  part ;  and  by  means  of 


,s  resist- 
ancaster 
immock- 
Y  danger 
lile  drift- 
iss,  as  if 
,rae  more 
)st  seven 
:hes,  star- 
vQiVj  little 
;oon  after 
er,  the  ice 
g  millionB 

ired  miles 
-west  coast 
sand  miles 
greeks   that 

the  disc  of 
i^et  nature 

ctimes  the 

lorthward ; 

uld  appear, 

;,  too,  were 
real  moon 

fie  heavens 
lighted  up 

-st  as  vivid 

Dfice;  and 
|d  stores,  to 
)rganizcd  a 
lud  the  offi- 
Ic  pieces  of 
means  of 


FIRST  GRINNELL  EXPEDITION. 


309 


calico  tliey  transformed  themselves  into  female  charac- 
ters, as  occasion  required.  These  dramas  were  acted 
upon  the  deck  of  the  Advance,  sometimes  while  the  ther- 
mometer indicated  80°  below  zero  ;  and  actors  and  audi- 
ence highly  enjoyed  the  fun,  Tiiey  also  went  out  in  par- 
ties during  that  long  night,  fully  armed,  to  hunt  the  polar 
bear,  the  grim  monarch  of  the  frozen  north,  on  which 
occasions  they  often  encountered  perilous  adventures. 
They  played  at  foot-ball,  and  exercised  themselves  in 
drawing  sledges  heavily  laden  with  provisions.  Five 
hours  of  each  twenty-four  they  thus  exercised  in  the 
open  air,  and  once  a  week  each  man  washed  his  whole 
body  in  cold  snow-water.  Serious  sickness  was  conse- 
quently avoided  ;  and  the  scurvy,  which  attacked  them, 
soon  yielded  to  remedies. 

Often,  during  that  fearful  night,  they  cxj^ected  the 
disaster  of  having  their  vessels  crushed.  All  through 
November  and  December,  before  the  ice  became  fast, 
they  slept  in  their  clothes,  with  knapsacks  on  their 
backs,  and  sledges  upon  the  ice,  laden  with  stores,  not 
knowing  at  what  moment  the  vessels  might  be  demol- 
ished, and  themselves  forced  to  leave  them,  and  make 
their  way  toward  land.  On  the  8th  of  Decenber,  and 
the  23d  of  January,  they  actually  lowered  th^ir  boats 
and  stood  upon  the  ice,  for  the  crushing  masf- -"s  were 
making  the  timbers  of  the  gallant  vessel  creak,  and  its 
docks  to  rise  in  the  centre.  They  were  then  ninety 
miles  from  land,  and  hope  hardly  whispered  an  encour- 
aging idea  of  life  being  sustained.  On  the  latte-  occa- 
sion, when  officers  and  crew  stood  upon  the  ice,  with  the 
ropes  of  their  provision-sledges  in  their  hands,  a  terrible 
snow-drift  came  from  the  north-east,  and  intense  dark- 
ness slirouded  them.  Had  the  vessel  then  been  crushed, 
all  must  have  perished. 

A  strange  picture  might  have  been  seen  on  Christmas 


310 


FIRST  GRINNELL  EXPEDITION. 


day,  1850,  by  a  spirit  who  could  have  roamed  from  end 
to  end  of  the  icy  continent,  and  taken  it  in  at  a  glance. 
No  less  than  tej;  Arctic  discovery-ships  were  winter- 
ing within  a  few  hundred  miles  of  each  other.  Under 
GriflSth's  Island  lay  her  majesty's  ships  the  Resolute, 
Assistance,  Pioneer,  and  Intrepid ;  in  a  small  bay  in 
North  Devon  were  securely  sheltered  Captain  Penny's 
two  brigs ;  the  Investigator  lay  in  Prince  of  Wales 
Strait ;  and  at  the  mouth  of  Lancaster  Sound,  drifting 
helplessly  in  the  pack  which  had  borne  them  already 
twelve  degrees  to  the  eastward,  were  the  two  unfortu- 
nate ships  of  the  Grinnell  expedition.  But  this  was  not 
all.  Only  three  to  lour  hundred  miles  from  the  Investi- 
gator's winter  quarters,  Mr.  Rae  was  waiting  on  the 
border  of  Great  Bear  Lake  for  weather  that  would  allow 
him  to  start  on  his  land  journey.  And,  in  all  human 
probability,  on  that  same  Christmas  day.  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin and  his  men,  the  objects  of  so  many  expeditions  and 
so  much  anxious  hope,  were  miserably  subsisting  on 
short  allowance  somewhere  in  King  William's  Land, 
or  on  the  bank  of  Peel  Sound. 

Dr.  Kane,  who  wrote  a  deeply  interesting  account  of 
the  first  Grinnell  expedition,  says,  under  date  of  Febru- 
ary 28th,  1851,  when,  for  some  days,  the  average  tem- 
perature was  53  degrees  below  zero  :  "  Cold  as  it  was, 
our  mid-day  exercise  was  never  interrupted  unless  by 
wind  and  drift-storms.  We  felt  the  necessity  of  active 
exercise  ;  and,  although  the  effort  was  accompanied  with 
pains  in  the  joints,  sometimes  hardly  bearable,  we  man- 
aged, both  officers  and  crew,  to  obtain  at  least  three  hours 
a  day.  The  exercise  consisted  of  foot-ball  and  sliding, 
followed  by  regular  games  of  romps,  leap-frog,  and  tum- 
bling in  the  snow.  By  shovelling  away  near  the 
vessel,  we  obtained  a  fine  bare  surface  of  fresh  ice, 
extremely  glib  and  durable.     On  this  we  constructed  a 


■  r'  '-1 


FIRST  GRINNELL  EXPEDITION. 


311 


om  end 

glance. 

winter- 
Under 

,e  solute, 
bay  in 

Penny's 

f  Wales 

,  drifting 

i  already 
unfortu- 

s  was  not 

3  Investi- 

ig  on  the 

)uld  allow 

ill  human 

)hn  Frank- 

itions  and 

sisting  on 
's   Land, 

account  of 
of  Febru- 
|;rage  tem- 
as  it  was, 
[unless  by 
of  active 
[anied  with 
},  we  man- 
Ihree  hours 
id  sliding, 
[,  and  turn- 
near    the 
fresh  ice, 
Istructed  a 


skating-ground  and  admirable  slides.  I  walked  regu- 
larly over  the  floes,  although  the  snows  were  nearly 
impassable.  With  all  this,  aided  by  hosts  of  hygienic 
resources,  feeble,  certainly,  but  still  the  best  at  my 
command,  scurvy  advanced  steadily." 

On  the  21st  April  Dr.  Kane  encountered  a  bear  on  the 
ice,  on  which  he  remarks :  "  We  are  at  least  eighty 
miles  from  the  nearest  land.  Cape  Kater ;  and  channels 
innumerable  must  intervene  between  us  and  terra  firma. 
Yet  this  majestic  animal,  dependent  upon  his  own  pred- 
a+ciy  resources  alone,  and,  defying  cold  as  well  as  hun- 
ger, guided  by  a  superb  instinct,  confides  himself  to 
these  solitary,  unstable  ice-fields. 

"  Parry,  in  his  adventurous  polar  effort,  found  these 
animals  at  the  most  northern  limit  of  recorded  observa- 
tion. Wrangell  had  them  as  companions  on  his  first 
Asiatic  journey  over  the  Polar  Ocean.  Navigators  have 
also  found  them  floating  upon  berg  and  floe  far  out  in 
open  sea ;  and  here  we  have  them  in  a  region  some 
seventy  miles  from  the  nearest  stable  ice.  They  have 
seldom  or  never  —  if  we  except  Parry's  Spitzbergen 
experience  —  been  seen  so  far  from  land.  In  the  great 
majority  of  cases,  they  seem  to  have  been  accidentally 
caught  and  carried  adrift  on  disengaged  ice-floes.  In 
this  way  they  travel  to  Iceland ;  and  it  may  have  been 
so,  perhaps,  with  the  Spitzbergen  instances. 

"  There  is  something  very  grand  about  this  tawny 
savage  :  never  leaving  this  utter  destitution,  this  frigid 
inhospitableness  ;  coupling  in  May,  and  bringing  forth 
in  Christmas  time ;  a  gestation  carried  on  all  of  it 
below  zero,  more  than  half  of  it  in  Arctic  darkness  ; 
living  in  perpetual  snow,  and  dependent  for  life  upon  a 
never-ending  activity ;  using  the  frozen  water  as  a  raft 
to  traverse  tlie  open  seas,  that  the  water  unfrozen  may 
yield  him  the  means  of  life.  No  time  for  hibernatiou 
has  this  polar  tiger ;  his  life  is  one  great  winter." 


^  H 


)   1 


312 


FIRST  GRINNELL  EXPEDITION. 


Early  in  February  the  northern  horizon  began  to  be 
streaked  with  gorgeous  twiliglit,  the  herald  of  the 
approaching  sun  ;  and  on  the  1.8th  his  disc  first  appeared 
above  the  horizon.  As  the  golden  rim  rose  above  the 
glittering  snow-drifts  and  piles  of  ice,  three  hearty 
cheers  went  np  from  those  hardy  mariners,  and  they 
enthusiastically  welcomed  their  deliverer  from  the  chains 
of  frost.  Day  after  day  the  sun  rose  higher  and  higher, 
and  vast  masses  of  ice  began  to  yield  to  his  fervid  influ- 
ences. The  scurvy  disappeared,  and  from  that  time, 
until  their  arrival  home,  not  a  man  suffered  from  sick- 
ness. As  they  slowly  drifted  through  Davis's  Straits, 
and  the  ice  gave  indications  of  breaking  up,  the  voy- 
agers made  preparations  for  sailing.  The  Rescue  was 
reoccupied  (May  12th,  1851),  and  her  stern-post,  which 
had  been  broken  by  the  ice  in  Barrow's  Straits,  was 
repaired.  To  accomplish  this,  they  were  obliged  to  dig 
away  the  ice,  which  was  from  twelve  to  fourteen  feet 
thick  around  her.  They  re-shipped  their  rudders ; 
removed  the  felt  covering  ;  placed  their  stores  on  deck, 
and  then  patiently  awaited  the  disruption  of  the  ice. 
This  event  was  very  sudden  and  appalling.  It  began 
to  give  way  on  the  5th  of  June,  and  in  the  space  of 
twenty  minutes  the  whole  mass,  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
reach,  became  ore  vast  field  of  moving  floes. 

On  the  10th  of  June,  1851,  they  emerged  into  opon 
water  a  little  south  of  the  Arctic  Circle,  in  latitude  65° 
30'.  They  immediately  repaired  to  Godhaven,  on  the 
coast  of  Greenland,  where  they  re-fitted,  and,  unappalled 
by  the  perils  through  which  they  had  just  passed,  they 
once  more  turned  their  prows  northward,  to  encounter 
anew  the  ice  squadrons  of  Baffin's  B^y,  Again  they 
traversed  the  coast  of  Greenland  to  about  the  V3d  degree, 
when  they  bore  to  the  westward,  and  on  the  *7th  and  Htli 
of  July  passed  the  English  whaling-fleet  near  the  Dutch 


FIBST  GRINNELL  EXPEDITION. 


313 


I  to  be 

of   tho 

ppeared 

ove  the 
hearty 

nd  they 

le  chains 

i  higher, 

vid  influ- 

lat  time, 

[•cm  sick- 

B  Straits, 

,  the  voy- 

(scne  was 

)st,  which 

raits,  was 

p;ed  to  dig 

rteen  feet 
rudders  ; 

;  on  deck, 

,f  the  ice. 
It  began 
space  of 
eye  could 

into  open 
Ititude  65° 
m,  on  i\\G 
hn  appalled 

Issed,  they 
encounter 

.gain  they 

1 3d  degree, 

1th  and  8th 

the  Dutch 


Islands.  Onward  they  pressed  through  the  accumulat 
ing  ice  to  Baffin's  Island,  where,  on  the  11th,  they  were 
joined  by  the  Prince  Albert,  then  out  upon  another  cruise 
They  continued  in  company  until  the  3d  of  August,  when 
the  Albert  departed  for  the  westward,  determined  to 
try  the  more  southern  passage.  Here  again  the  Ameri- 
cans encountered  vast  fields  of  hummock-ice,  and  were 
subjected  to  the  most  imminent  perils.  The  floating  ice, 
as  if  moved  by  adverse  currents,  tumbled  in  huge  masses, 
and  reared  upon  tho  sides  of  the  sturdy  little  vessels 
like  monsters  of  the  deep  intent  upon  destruction 
These  masses  broke  in  the  bulwarks,  and  sometimes  fell 
over  upon  the  decks  with  terrible  force,  like  rocks 
rolled  over  a  plain  by  mountain  torrents.  The  noise 
was  fearful  —  so  deafening  that  the  mariners  could 
scarcely  hear  each  other's  voices.  The  sounds  of  these 
rolling  masses,  together  with  the  rending  of  the  icebergs 
floating  near,  and  the  vast  floes,  produced  a  din  like  the 
discharge  of  a  thousand  pieces  of  ordnance  upon  a  field 
of  battle.  '  -\ 

Finding  the  north  and  west  closed  against  further 
progress,  by  impenetrable  ice,  De  Haven  was  balked ; 
and,  turning  his  vessels  homeward,  they  came  out  into 
an  open  sea  somewhat  crippled,  but  not  a  plank  seri- 
ously started.  During  a  storm  ofi"  the  banks  of  New- 
foundland, a  thousand  miles  from  New  York,  the  vessels 
parted  company.  The  Advance  arrived  safely  at  tlio 
Navy  Yard,  at  Brooklyn,  on  the  30th  of  September,  1851 ; 
and  the  Rescue  joined  her  there  a  few  days  afterward. 
Toward  the  close  of  October  the  government  resigned 
the  vessels  into  the  hands  of  Mr.  Grinnell,  to  be  usfd  iu 
other  service,  but  with  the  stipulation  that  they  were  to 
be  subject  to  the  order  of  the  Secretary  of  the  Navy  in 
the  spring,  if  required  for  another  expedition  in  seai  ch 
of  Sir  John  Franklin. 

27 


CHAPTER  XV. 


THE   PHINCK   AliBEIlT   REFITTED   BY   LADY   FRANKLIN.  —  MR.    KENNEDY    THE 

COMMANDER.  —  DEI'AUTUUK    OF    THE  VESSEL.  —  XJPERNAMK. TRIAL   OF 

CARRIER-PIGEONS.  —  DISASTROUS    SEPARATION.  —  RELIEF    AND   REUNION. 

PREPARATIONS     FOR     WINTERING. WINTER     JOURNEYS.  —  VISIT     TO 

FURY    BEACH.  —  THE    GRAND   JOURNEY. — SEVERE    GALE.  —  THE   FURY's 
STORES.  —  DOGS.  —  CAIRNS     NOT     ALWAYS     SEEN.  —  CAPE     WALKER.  — 

RETURN  TO    BATTY  BAY. HOMEWARD   BOUND. BELLOT.  RAE's   LAND 

JOURNEY   IN   1S51. 


The  discovery  of  the  traces  of  Franklin's  visit  to 
Point  Riley,  the  account  of  which  was  brought  home  by 
the  Prince  Albert,  gave  encouragement  for  a  renewal  of 
the  search.  On  the  3d  of  June,  1851,  the  Prince  Albert, 
which  had  been  refitted  by  Lady  Franklin  for  the  pur- 
pose of  exploring  the  shores  of  Prince  Regent's  Inlet, 
set  sail  from  Stromness.  She  was  under  the  command 
of  Mr.  William  Kennedy,  formerly  in  the  service  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  who  has  published  an 
interesting  narrative  of  his  adventures. 

The  Prince  Albert  had  been  well  strengthened  for 
encounters  with  ponderous  masses  of  ice.  Along  her 
sides,  from  the  keel  to  about  two  feet  above  the  water- 
line,  there  was  a  doubling  of  elm  planking  of  fully  two 
and  a  half  inches  thick,  intended  not  only  to  fortify  tlie 
hull  of  the  little  vessel,  but  to  preserve  her  sides  from 
the  tear  and  wear  of  sailing  through,  and  rubbing 
against,  sharp,  rasping  pieces  of  ice.  The  bow  and 
stern-post  were  sheathed  with  wrought  iron  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  thick,  and  a  broad  strip  of  thick  sheet-iron 


Jo] 
of 

Fd 
resj 
buil 


BELLOT.— HEPBURN. 


315 


tKDY  THE 
TUIAL  OF 
REUNION. 
.  VISIT  TO 
BE  fury's 
rALKEB.  — 

lab's  land 


visit   to 

home  by 

inewal  of 

fe  Albert, 
the  pur- 

^t's  Inlet, 
jomniand 
ice  of  the 
lished   an 

lened  for 
Uong  ber 
|:he  water- 
fully  two 
lortify  the 
tides  from 
l\   rubbing 
how  and 
la  quarter 
sheet-iron 


ran  iilonjj;'  the  water-line  as  far  aft  as  the  main-mast. 
Her  hold  was  a  perfect  labyrinth  of  cross-beams  and 
massive  fastenings,  to  enable  her  to  withstand  the  evil 
consequences  of  a  "nip  ;  "  and  the  arrangements  gener- 
ally were  conducted  in  a  manner  which,  while  it  indi- 
cated the  dangerous  nature  of  the  service,  also  served 
to  assure  her  crew  that  nothing  had  been  left  undone 
which  could  in  any  way  conduce  to  their  comfort  and 
safety. 

She  vvas  supplied  with  several  boats.  One  was  made 
of  gutia-percha,  and  another  of  mahogany ;  the  third 
being  a  small  dingy,  of  the  ordinary  kind.  She  had  also 
one  of  Ilalkett's  Mackintosh  boats,  and  a  tin  kayak, 
made  in  imitation  of  those  used  by  the  Esquimaux. 
Dressed  moose-skins  and  parchment,  to  be  converted 
during  the  voyage  into  moccasins,  snow-shoes,  doo^- 
sledge-traces,  &c.,  were  abundantly  supplied.  Pro- 
vision for  two  years  was  put  on  board,  and  part  of  this 
consisted  of  a  ton  and  a  half  of  pemmican.  v,  v 

The  ship's  company  consisted  of  eighteen  in  all,  in- 
cluding Mr.  Kennedy,  the  commander.  Lieutenant  J. 
Bellot,  the  second  in  command,  and  Mr.  Cowie,  the  sur- 
geon. Bellot  was  a  spirited  young  officer  from  the 
French  navy,  whose  romantic  love  of  adventure  led  him 
to  offer  his  services  to  Lady  Franklin  in  the  search 
which  had  now  been  going  on  for  some  years.  He 
soon  proved  himself  to  be  in  every  way  a  most  useful 
auxiliary,  and  an  honor  to  the  nation  to  which  he 
belonged. 

Among  the  crew,  who  were  all  picked  men,  there  was 
John  Hepburn,  who  will  be  remembered  by  every  reader 
of  Arctic  travel  as  the  faithful  attendant  of  Sir  John 
Franklin  during  his  first  adventurous,  and  in  some 
respects  tragic  journey,  through  North  America.  Hep- 
burn's spirit  was  fired  with  an  irresistible  desire  to  assist 


816 


UPERNAVIK. 


in  searching  for  the  hero  with  whom,  in  his  youth,  ho 
had  shared  the  perils  of  the  wilderness  ;  and  now,  in  his 
old  age,  he  was  going  to  face  a  wilder  form  of  perils  on 
the  ice-laden  waters  of  the  Pohir  Sea.  Another  of  the 
men  had  travelled  with  Dr.  Rae,  on  his  first  expedition 
to  Repulse  Bay  ;  and  another  had  accompanied  Sir 
John  Richardson  in  his  boat  journey  through  the  inte- 
rior of  America.  Lady  Franklin  herself  was  present  to 
jee  the  vessel  oft".  She  took  an  afl'octionate  leave  of 
Dfficers  and  crew  ;  and  the  Prince  Albert  bounded  from 
the  shore  and  stretched  out  into  the  Avide  Atlantic,  the 
Union-Jack  at  her  peak,  and  the  French  flag,  in  honor 
of  Lieutenant  Bellot,  Hying  at  the  fore.  •    .. 

On  Sunday,  the  24th  of  June,  they  descried  the  coast 
of  Greenland  on  the  distant  horizon.  In  Baffin's  Bay 
they  were  visited  by  the  captains  of  two  whaling-vessels, 
who  created  great  excitement  by  telling  them  of  the 
discovery  of  Franklin's  winter  quarters  in  1845,  with 
the  details  of  which  the  reader  is  already  acquainted. 
This  information  induced  Kennedy  to  direct  his  course 
to  Upernavik,  the  Danish  colony  on  the  west  coast  of 
Greenland,  partly  for  the  purpose  of  taking  in  additional 
supplies  for  the  use  of  the  winter  travelling  parties,  but 
chiefly  with  the  hope  of  gaining  further  information  of 
the  recent  discoveries,  from  the  American  searching 
vessels  which  had  wintered  in  the  pack.  In  this,  how- 
ever, he  was  disappointed. 

Of  Upernavik,  which  he  reached  June  10th,  1851, 
Kennedy  says  :  "  It  is  one  of  that  interesting  group  of 
little  colonies  with  which  the  enterprise  of  the  Danes 
has  dotted  the  west  coast  of  Greenland.  Here,  con- 
siderably within  the  Arctic  Circle,  we  found  a  Christian 
community,  not  only  living,  but,  after  a  fashion,  thriv- 
ing. We  were  informed  by  the  governor  that  there  were, 
even  at  this  early  period  of  the  season,  one  thousand 


UPERNAVIK. 


817 


Danish  tons  of  oil  and  blubber  stored,  from  the  produce 
of  the  summer  lisliory.  There  w,  likewise  visible  evi- 
dence in  every  direction  of  an  abundance  of  venison, 
water-fowl,  and  cg^s,  as  well  as  seals.  The  houses 
were  built  of  wood,  very  small,  and  had  a  singularly 
amphibious  look  about  them,  from  being  covered  with 
tar  from  top  to  bottom,  —  appearing,  for  all  the  world, 
like  so  many  upturned  herring-boats,  ready,  on  any 
emergency,  to  ta^ke  to  the  water. 

"  A  party  of  the  Esquimaux,  attached  to  the  settle- 
ment, had  c  lie  in  with  the  produce  of  some  hunting 
excursion  in  vl  h  they  had  been  engaged  ;  and  I  was 
much  struc  with  their  intelligence,  and  their  well-cla^l, 
comfortable,  and  healthy  appearance.  This,  I  learned, 
was  in  a  grc  .t  measure  due  to  the  benevolent  interest 
of  the  D  nish  government  in  their  belialf  There  is  not 
a  station,  I  was  given  to  understand,  along  the  whole 
coast  of  Greenland,  which  has  not  its  missionary  and 
its  schoolmaster  for  the  instruction  of  the  natives  ;  and, 
judging  from  what  we  saw  and  learned  at  Upernavik, 
the  Danish  exchequer  is  not  without  material  and  sub- 
stantial proofs  of  the  gratitude  of  the  poor  '  Inmnt.' 
Thus  instructed^  cared  for,  and  their  energies  disciplined 
and  directed,  the  Esquimaux  of  Greenland  give  employ- 
ment to  six  ships  annually,  in  carrying  the  produce  of 
their  hunts  and  fisheries  to  Denmark." 

At  this  place  six  large  Esquimaux  dogs,  for  dragging 
sledges,  were  purchased.  A  few  pairs  of  seal-skin 
boots,  shoes,  and  trousers,  a  la  E.^^quimaux,  were  also 
procured,  and  the  Prince  Albert  proceeded  on  her 
voyage.  The  much-dreaded  "middle  ice''  was  reached 
soon  after  leaving,  and  four  days  were  spent  in  passing 
through  it  to  the  western  side  of  the  bay,  during  which 
time  the  men  were  constantly  employed  in  sailing, 
boring,  pushing,  thumping,  and  warping  —  not  unfre- 

21* 


818 


CARRIEIU-PiaEONS.  —  ESQUIMAUX. 


qucntly  exposed  to  tl)C  perilous  nips,  which  are  some- 
times productive  of  such  dire  consequences.  At  this 
point  in  the  voyage  it  was  deemed  advisable  to  test  the 
powers  of  some  carrier-pi;j:oons  with  which  they  had 
been  provided  ;  but  the  poor  birds  refused  to  take  the 
long  liig'ht  to  England,  and  resolutely  persisted  in 
returning  to  the  ship  again,  after  a  short  survey  of  the 
icy  region  in  which  they  were  let  loose. 

During  the  passage  of  the  middle-ice,  a  large  quantity 
of  provisions  had  been  got  up  on  deck,  to  be  ready  in 
case  an  unfortunate  crush  should  sink  the  vessel.  This 
was  now  re-stowed  in  the  hold,  on  getting  into  the 
cpmparativoly  clear  western  waters  of  Baffin's  Bay. 

One  evening  about  this  time,  while  they  were  sailing 
quietly  among  beautiful  and  fantastically  formed  frag- 
ments of  ice,  which  obliged  them  frequently  to  deviate 
a  little  from  their  course,  a  shout  was  heard  ringing 
through  the  calm,  still  atmosphere,  and  very  soon  four 
Esquimaux  paddled  out  to  them  in  their  seal-skin  kayaks. 
They  speedily  clambered  on  board,  and  one  of  the  crew 
happening  to  have  some  slight  knowledge  of  English,  a 
vigorous  flow  of  query  and  reply  commenced,  in  the 
course  of  which  much  useful  information  as  to  the 
nature  of  the  coast  and  inlets  was  obtained.  One, 
especially,  proved  to  be  an  expert  draftsman,  and  by 
means  of  a  bit  of  chalk  drew  on  the  deck  the  outlines 
of  various  parts  of  the  coast,  which  were  of  some  service. 

The  progress  of  the  vessel  was  now  much  interrupted 
by  ice  and  contrary  gales.  All  attempts  to  reach  Cape 
Riley,  and,  subsequently,  to  enter  Leopold  Harbor, 
were  completely  frustrated.  Far  as  the  eye  could  reach 
down  the  west  side  of  Prince  Regent's  Inlet,  —  which 
was  to  be  the  scene  of  their  searching  operations,  — 
huge  barriers  of  ice  met  the  view.  The  voyagers 
pushed  boldly  in  amongst  it,  however,  and  succeeded. 


DISASTROUS  SEPARATION. 


319 


after  a  tortuous  course,  in  reaching  Elwin  Bay,  which 
they  found  quite  closed  up.  Butty  Bay  and  Fury  Beach 
were  next  viwited,  where  they  met  witli  similar  disap- 
pointment, and  where  tliey  also  perceived  that  the  ice  — 
between  which  and  the  shore  they  had  hoen  sailing'  — 
was  setting  down  upon  them  ;  so  they  were  obliged  to 
beat  a  hasty  retreat,  in  order  to  escape  being  crushed 
to  pieces.  It  was  now  obviously  fViiitless  to  attempt 
the  western  side  of  the  inlet  under  present  circum- 
stances ;  so  they  put  about  and  ran  for  Port  Bowen,  on 
the  eastern  shore,  which  was  comparatively  free  from 
ice.  Here  they  found  traces  of  the  party  which  wintered 
at  this  s[)()t  with  Sir  Edward  Parry,  in  1825. 

To  winter  here,  while  all  their  intended  work  lay  ori 
the  other  shore  of  the  inlet,  was  quite  out  of  the  ques- 
tion ;  so  it  was  resolved  at  all  hazards  to  attempt  a 
landing  again.  Accordingly,  on  the  9th  of  September, 
they  recrossed  the  strait,  and  succeeded  in  approaching 
close  enough  to  the  shore  to  render  an  attempt  to  l.ind 
somewhat  feasible.  The  gutt;i-percha  boat  was  the  re- 
fore  got  out,  and  Kennedy,  with  four  of  his  men,  jumped 
into  her  and  rowed  for  the  beach.  This  they  reached 
without  difficulty,  by  means  of  a  narrow  lane  of  open 
water  which  was  opportunely  discovered.  On  ascend- 
ing the  clifls  of  Cape  Seppings,  Kennedy  found,  to  his 
joy,  that  the  harbor  of  Port  Leopold  was  quite  free  from 
ice,  and,  if  the  ship  could  maintain  her  position  for  a  few 
hours  longer,  he  had  no  doubt  of  being  able  to  effect  an 
entrance.  On  descending  to  the  beach,  however,  he 
found,  to  his  consternation,  that  the  passage  by  which 
they  had  entered  was  blocked  up.  The  boat  had  not 
been  fastened  to  the  beach,  but  to  a  large  piece  of  ice, 
which,  with  the  whole  body  of  the  pack,  was  drifting 
down  the  inlet,  carrying  boat,  ship,  and  men,  along 
with  it.     To  make  matters  worse,  night  was  coming  on, 


(i 


820 


DIS.VSTROUS  SEPARATION. 


and  nothing  could  bo  seen  or  heard  around  but  huge 
ina88(3H  of  ice  grinding,  tossing,  and  rearing  luriouHly 
on  every  side.  To  return  to  the  ship  under  these  cir- 
cumstances was  out  of  the  question  ;  so  they  made  for 
the  sliorc  as  fast  as  possible,  dragging  the  boat  along 
with  them.  On  reaching  it,  they  pulled  the  boat  up  and 
turned  it  over  so  as  to  form  a  kind  of  shelter  from  the 
night-air,  and  then  prepared  to  pass  the  nigiit  under  it, 
although  little  sleep  was  anticipated  ;  for,  besides  the 
anxiety  occasioned  by  their  strange  position,  their 
clothes  were  almost  covered  with  ice,  and  they  had  no 
blankets  or  coverings  of  any  kind.  From  his  former 
experience  in  Arctic  scenes,  Kennedy  knew  the  danger 
of  falling  asleep  under  such  circumstances  ;  and,  notwith- 
standing the  strong  desire  that  he  and  his  men  felt  to 
indulge  in  repose,  he  oidy  allowed  them  to  rest  for  an 
hour  at  a  time,  obliging  them  during  the  remainder  of 
the  night  to  keep  in  active  motion. 

With  the  dawn  of  the  following  morning  the  shivering 
party  scrambled  to  the  top  of  the  highest  clilf  of  Cape 
Seppings,  but  not  a  vestige  of  the  vessel  was  to  be  seen  I 
The  consternation  of  the  poor  men,  who  were  thus  cast 
away  on  this  bleak  shore,  may  be  imagined.  Without 
provisions,  scantily  clad,  no  vessel,  and  an  approaching 
hyperborean  winter,  their  condition  seemed  forlorn 
indeed.  One  fortunate  circumstance,  however,  cheered 
them  not  a  little  ;  and  this  was  the  fact  that,  two  years 
before.  Sir  James  Ross  had  left  a  deposit  of  provisions 
at  Whaler  Point,  on  the  other  side  of  the  harbor. 
Should  this  be  found  in  good  condition,  there  wa.  every 
reason  to  hope  that  they  might  manage  to  pass  the 
winter  in  at  least  some  degree  of  comfort.  Thither, 
therefore,  Kennedy  and  his  four  men  now  directed  their 
steps.  A  short  walk  brought  them  to  the  spot,  where, 
to  their  great  joy,  they  found  the  provisions  just  as  they 


mSASTROUS  SEPARATION. 


821 


Juul  h(.'(>ii  \o\'t,  and  quite  good,  with  the  exception  of  a 
cuHk  of  tallow,  a  ease  of  chocolate,  and  a  barrel  of  bis- 
cuit, which  had  been  dcHiroyed,  and  their  contents  de- 
molished, by  the  bears  and  foxea.  A  house  erected  by 
Sir  Jiinies  Koss  was  also  found  in  pn^ttygood  condition, 
being  only  a  little  damaged  in  the  roof.  Near  to  this 
there  was  a  tlag-staff,  to  which  a  cylinder  was  attached, 
contaiidng  a  notice  of  the  de[)osit  of  provisions,  and  of 
tluf  future  intentions  of  the  party  by  whom  they  had  been 
left. 

"  It  was  now,"  says  Kennedy,  "  the  10th  of  Septem- 
ber. Winter  was  evidently  fast  setting  in,  and,  from  the 
distance  the  ship  had  been  curried  during  that  disas- 
trous night,  —  whether  out  to  sea  or  down  the  inlet  wo 
could  not  conjecture,  — there  was  no  hope  of  our  being 
able  to  rejoin  her,  at  least  during  the  pn^sent  season. 
There  remained,  therefore,  no  alternative  but  to  make  up 
our  minds  to  pass  the  winter,  if  necessary,  where  we 
were.  The  first  object  to  be  attended  to  was  the  erect- 
ing of  some  sort  of  shelter  against  the  daily  increasing 
inclemency  of  the  weather  ;  and  for  this  purpose  the 
launch,  left  by  Sir  James  Ross,  was  selected.  Tier  main- 
mast was  laid  on  supports  at  the  bow  and  stern,  about 
nine  feet  in  height,  and  by  spreading  two  of  her  sails 
over  this  a  very  tolerable  roof  was  obtained.  A  stove 
was  set  up  in  the  body  of  the  boat,  with  the  pipes  run- 
ning through  the  roof;  and  we  were  soon  sitting  by  a 
comfortable  fire,  which,  after  our  long  exposure  to  the 
wet  and  cold,  we  stood  very  much  in  need  of." 

Kennedy  now  arranged  his  plans  for  the  future.  To 
undertake  a  long  winter  journey  over  the  country  on 
foot  had  been  his  original  intention  ;  but,  under  the 
present  circumstances,  this  was  impossible,  lie  there- 
fore determined  first  to  send  it  travelling  parties,  ais 
soon  as  the  state  of  the  ice  £:.   did  permit,  to  institute 


^1 


I 


i; 


I: 


822 


DISASTROUS  SEPARATION. 


ifll' 


a  strict  search  for  the  ship  in  every  direction  in  which 
it  was  likely  that  slie  could  have  been  carried  ;  and, 
secondly,  in  the  event  of  being  unsuccessful  in  this,  it 
was  determined  to  make  a  journey  early  in  spring-  <<» 
Cape  Walker,  to  search  in  that  direction  for  traces  of 
Captain  Franklin  and  his  crews  ;  and  so  accomplish  at 
least  part  of  the  object  for  which  this  expedition  had 
been  fitted  out. 

There  were  difficulties  in  the  way,  however.  Shoes 
were  wanted.  AVithout  shoes  nothing  could  be  done 
at  all ;  so  it  behoved  them  to  exert  their  ingenuity. 
There  was  nothing  in  the  depot  of  provisions  that  could 
be  turned  to  this  use  ;  but,  fortunately,  a  good  deal  of 
the  canvas  covering  of  the  old  house  was  left,  and  out 
of  this  several  pairs  of  shoes  were  made.  They  answered 
pretty  well,  although,  indeed,  they  lasted  not  much 
longer  than  a  few  days  ;  so  two  of  the  party  were  set 
to  wo'^k  to  devote  their  whole  time  to  the  making  of  a 
supply  of  canvas  shoes,  which  should  last  them  during 
the  whole  winter. 

In  contriving  and  constructing  such  clothing  and 
implements  as  were  absolutely  necessary,  and  in  pre- 
paring for  their  intended  journeys,  they  now  spent 
much  of  their  time.  The  Sabbaths  were  always  days 
of  rest,  and  devoted  to  tlie  worship  of  God,  whose  ten- 
der care  had  thus  provided  them  with  all  the  necessaries, 
and  not  a  few  of  the  comforts,  of  life. 

On  the  Itth  of  October,  while  they  were  engaged  in 
the  usual  routine  of  daily  duty,  a  shot  was  heard  to 
reverberate  among  the  cliffs  of  Cape  Seppings.  So 
unwonted  a  sound  caused  them  to  rush  tumultuously 
from  their  occupations,  when  they  found,  with  emotions 
of  inexpressible  thaidifulness  and  joy,  that  it  proceeded 
from  a  party  of  seven  of  the  Prince  Albert's  men,  headed 
by  Bellot,  who  had  dragged  the  jolly-boat  all  the  way 


RELIEF  AND  REUNION. 


323 


from  Batty  Bay,  in  the  hope  of  finding  and  succoring 
their  long-lost  comrades. 

"1  cannot  refrain,"  writes  Kennedy,  "from  record- 
ing here  my  warmest  thanks  to  Mr.  Bellot,  not  only  for 
this,  but  two  other  attempts  which  he  had  made  to 
communicate  to  us  the  intelligence  of  the  Prince 
Albert's  position,  and  to  bring  us  a  supply  of  clothing. 
He  had  set  out  with  two  men  to  come  by  land  to  Port 
Leopold,  the  third  day  after  getting  into  Batty  Bay  ; 
but,  after  three  days'  march,  over  the  wild  and  rugged 
hills,  wading  through  deep  snow,  and  walking  agaijist 
continual  drift,  tiiey  were  obliged  to  return  to  the  ship, 
after  much  suflering  from  cold  and  wet.  He  next  made 
a  gallant  attempt  along  shore  by  means  of  dogs  and 
sledges  ;  but,  getting  on  weak  ice,  fell  through,  and  had 
again  to  return,  with  the  loss  of  the  sledge  and  part  of 
its  contents.  The  third  (the  present)  attempt  was  more 
successful.  The  little  boat,  as  already  stated,  had  been 
dragged  all  the  way,  in  case  of  any  occasion  arising  for 
its  use  whore  the  ice  had  not  formed.  They  found  the 
ice,  however,  formed  all  the  way  to  this  point,  and  in 
many  places  so  rough  that  they  had  often  to  drag  their 
boats  over  points  of  land." 

From  those  who  had  thus  opportunely  arrived  to 
succor  them  they  learned  that  the  Prince  Albert  was 
securely  moored  in  Batty  Bay  ;  and,  as  there  was  noth- 
ing now  to  prevent  their  setting  out  to  rejoin  the  vessel, 
preparations  were  commenced  immediately.  The  activ- 
ity and  reactionary  flow  of  spirits  among  the  men  was 
very  high,  at  thus  meeting  with  their  long-lost  com- 
rades. Five  weeks  had  elapsed  since  their  disastrous 
separation  ;  and  that  evening  a  truly  joyous  party 
assembled  under  tlie  covering  of  the  old  launch,  and 
caused  her  timbers  to  quake  witli  the  sound  of  rough 
old  sea-songs,  and  tough  yarns,  while  they  quaffed  brim- 


\'" 


I 


324 


RETURN  TO  THE  SHIP. 


miiig  bowls  of  hot,  strong  chocolate  to  the  Buccess  of 
tlieir  expedition. 

On  Wednesday,  the  22d  of  October,  their  prepara- 
tions being  completed,  a  paper  was  deposited  in  the 
cylinder,  containing  an  account  of  their  proceedings, 
and  they  commenced  their  journey  to  Batty  Bay, 

A  strong  sledge  had  been  made,  on  which  the  boat 
was  placed  ;  then  all  their  goods  and  provisions,  etc., 
had  been  securely  stowed  away  in  the  latter,  and  hauled 
down  to  the  ice  on  Leopold  Harbor,  which  stretched  out 
a  smooth  and  level  plain  before  them.  The  mast  was 
then  erected,  the  saiis  set,  and,  the  whole  party  jumping 
in,  away  they  went  over  the  bay  before  a  spanking 
breeze,  at  a  rate  that  \;^as  quite  marvellous.  But,  just 
as  they  got  about  ho.li-way  across  the  bay,  the  sledge 
broke  down,  leaving  them  to  repair  damages  for  the 
remainder  of  the  day.  Night  overtook  them  ere  they 
could  gain  the  land  ;  and,  as  it  was  not  desirable  to  sleep 
on  the  frozen  sea,  they  were  obliged  to  make  their  way 
on  in  the  dark,  which  was  rendered,  if  possibh.',  still 
more  palpable  by  a  heavy  fall  of  snow.  After  much 
stumbling  into  crevices  and  cracks,  frequent  wanderings 
about  they  knew  not  where,  and  occasional  dashirgs  of 
the  shins  upon  sharp  pieces  of  projecting  ice,  a  small 
bit  of  solid  land  was  found  in  the  shape  of  a  flat  lune- 
stone  rock,  surrounded  by  large  masses  of  stranded  ice. 
Here  they  erected  a  tent,  and  with  some  coals  which 
had  been  brought  from  Whaler  Point  boiled  a  large 
kettle  of  tea,  and  enjoyed  themseh^es  exceedingly  after 
the  fatiguing  and  protracted  march  of  the  day. 

But  they  experienced  some  embarrassment  in  dispos- 
ing themselves  to  rest.  The  tent  was  small,  and  the 
party  numbered  thirteen.  Six  sat  down  on  one  side, 
and  six  on  the  other,  by  which  they  managed  to  have 
about  three    feet   of  space    for   stretching   their   legs. 


SNOW  HOUSES. 


325 


Bellot  —  whose  good-humored  aptitude  to  accommodate 
liimsolf  to  all  varieties  of  circumstances  was  always 
conspicuous  — undertook  to  squeeze  in  under  the  twelve 
pairs  of  leg's,  a  small  space  at  one  end  being  left  clear 
for  his  head.  But  the  arrangement  was  not  propitious 
to  sleep  ;  and  it  was  resolved  to  "  make  a  night  of  it." 
They  had  a  candle,  but  no  candlestick  ;  so  each  man 
held  the  candle  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and  then 
passed  it  to  his  neighbor.  SoTigs  were  sung,  and  there 
was  some  hilarious  merriment.  But  the  candle  went 
out,  and  then  there  was  a  renewal  of  the  abortive 
attempts  to  sleep.  These  were  accompanied  with  nods, 
groans,  ajid  sighs,  —  especially  from  poor  Bellot,  on 
whom  the  weight  of  twenty-four  heavy  legs  began  to 
te^l  with  the  oilect  of  a  hydraulic  press.  At  length  the 
gn\y  dawn  warned  them  to  rise  and  resume  their 
journey. 

Tht.";  discomforts  had  been  such  that  they  determined 
in  future  to  adopt  the  Esquimaux  plan  of  building  a 
snow  hut  each  night,  in  which  to  sleep,  Kennedy's 
description  of  these  primitive  dwellings  is  interesting  : 
'■'The  process  of  constructing-  a  snow-house  goes  on 
something  in  this  way,  varied,  of  course,  by  circum- 
stances of  time,  place,  and  materials.  First,  a  number 
of  square  blocks  are  cut  out  of  any  hard-drifted  bank  of 
snow  you  can  meet  with,  adapted  for  +he  purpose  ; 
which,  when  cut,  have  precisely  the  apMCirance  of 
blockt^  of  salt  sold  in  the  donkey-carts  in  the  sti'cets  of 
London.  The  dimensions  we  generally  selected  were 
two  feet  in  length  by  fourteen  inches  in  height,  and  nine 
inclies  in  breadth.  A  layer  of  these  blocks  is  laid  on 
the  ground  nearly  in  the  form  of  a  square  ;  and  then 
another  layer  on  this,  cut  so  as  to  incline  slightly 
inwards,  and  the  corner  blocks  laid  diagonally  over 
those  underneath,  so  as  to  cut  off  the  angles.     Other 

lis 


f! 


326 


PRi:PAB  VI  [ON?   FOR  WINTERING. 


M  I 


liiyors  folic  \r  in  the  Kanr^;  way,  until  you  have  gradually 
a  dome-shaped  structure  rising  before  you,  out  of  which 
you  have  only  to  cut  a  small  hole  for  a  door,  to  find 
yourself  within  a  veiy  li^''ht,  comfortable-looking  bee- 
hive on  a  large  scale,  in  which  you  can  bid  defiance  to 
wind  and  weather.  Any  chinks  between  the  blocks  are 
filled  up  with  loose  snow  with  the  hand  from  outside  ; 
as  these  are  best  detected  from  within,  a  man  is  usually 
sent  in  to  drive  a  tliin  rod  through  the  spot  where  he 
discovers  a  chink,  which  is  immediately  plastered  over 
by  some  one  from  without,  till  the  whole  house  is  as 
air-tight  as  an  egg.^' 

In  these  snowy  dwellings  fhey  afterwards  passed 
many  niglits  in  considerable  comfort,  and  on  the  pres- 
ent occasion  certainly  found  thoni  a  •^v(:it  improvement 
on  the  small  tent.  In  a  few  d.iys  they  reached  the 
ship,  where  a  hearty  welcome  from  their  comrades 
greeted  them. ' 

Preparations  w«ro  now  vigorously  begun  for  passing 
the  next  eight  months  of  the  winter  of  1851-2  in  the 
ice,  and  for  getting  ready  for  the  land  journeys  which 
it  was  intended  to  make  during  that  season.  Portions 
of  the  stores  were  removed  from  the  vessel's  hold  to 
the  shore,  where  snow-houses  were  built  to  receive  them. 
A  wash-house,  a  carpenter's  shop,  a  forge,  and  a  powder- 
magazine,  were  also  built  of  the  same  material.  Tiie 
decks  of  the  Prince  Albert  were  covered  with  a  housing, 
and  an  embankment  of  snow  as  high  as  the  gunwale 
built  around  her. 

In  all  the  excursions  of  the  adventurers,  Bellot,  the 
young  Frenchman,  seems  to  have  been  ever  foremost.  He 
headed  travelling  parties,  so  soon  as  the  ice  permitted, 
to  make  deposits  of  provisions,  etc.,  for  the  grand  trav- 
elling expeditions  in  prospect ;  and,  besid'^s  lending 
very  efficient  assistance  in  all  department;  ja  board, 


-.^'s 


wintj:;r  jouaiJuis. 


327 


made  daily  pilf^rimagos  to  a  hill  In  i'il-  Tir^i^i-hborhood, 
where  he  occasionally  succeeded  in  o'  ;  liniijg'  a  meridian 
observation  of  the  sun,  and  alway^i  b  '';ecdod  in  j^ettin^ 
his  fiiif^ers  frozen  in  the  operation. 

Kennedy,  being  almost  the  only  man  on  board  who 
had  ever  seen  a  snow-shoe  or  a  dog--sledg*e  before,  was 
constantly  engaged  in  constructing  these  indispensable 
implements  for  winter  travelling,  and  in  teaching  his 
crew  the  use  of  them.  Thus  occupied,  the  time  passed 
cheerfully  by.  The  nights  were  long  and  dark,  and  grew 
rapidly  longer  and  darker.  The  cold  winds  howled  over 
them  from  off  the  chilly  regions  around  the  pole,  bear- 
ing in  their  course  blinding  clouds  of  snow,  circling  and 
screaming  madly  round  the  solitary  ship,  and  whistling 
among  the  rigging  as  if  impatient  for  its  destruction, 
and  then  roaring  away  over  the  frozen  sea,  to  spend 
their  fury  at  last  on  the  black  wa^'Cis  of  Hudson's  Bay. 
Sometimes  the  sun  shone  brightly  out  in  a  clear,  cloud- 
less sky,  glittering  on  the  icy  particles  which  floated  in 
the  still,  cold  atmosphere,  and  blazing  on  the  tops  of  the 
neighboring  hills,  whose  white  atline<  were  clearly  and 
sharply  defined  against  the  blu':  .iea-vcns  *,  and,  as  if  Na- 
ture desired  to  make  some  ctiMpensation  for  the  length- 
ened period  of  darkness  to  whic')  siie  doomed  the  land, 
one,  and  sometimes  two  mock-smi;-;.  or,  as  the  sailors 
sometimes  call  them,  "sun-dogs,"  idione  in  the  firma- 
ment, vicing  in  splendor  with  the  glorious  orl)  of  day 
himself. 

About  the  5th  of  January,  1852,  all  was  ready  for  the 
commencement  of  the  long-talked-of  winter  Journeyy, 
and  the  morning  of  that  day  was  ushered  in  witli  the 
clattering  of  snow-shoes  and  sledges,  the  ci'iicking  of 
whips,  the  shouts  (jf  men,  and  the  howling  and  yelping 
of  dogs.  Although  all  the  men  of  the  Prince  Albert 
were  out  upcn  the  ice,  only  five  of  them  wore  appointed 


mt 

PI 

1^ 

Sffel 

h'M 


X. 

m 


328 


WINTER  JOURNEYS. 


i'*  -r 


to  undertake  the  first  exploratory  journey.  These  were 
Kennedy,  Bolh)t,  and  three  of  the  hardiest  ainoug  tlie 
crew.  "  Tiie  first  obj'ejt  of  the  journey,"  says  Ivennedy, 
"  was,  of  course,  t(j  ascertain  whether  Fury  Beacli  liad 
been  a  retreating-  point  to  any  of  Sir  Jolin  Franklin's 
party  since  it  was  visited  by  Lieut.  Kol)inson,  of  the  En- 
terprise, in  1849.  A  secondary  object,  should  our  ex- 
pectations in  this  respect  not  be  realized,  was  to  form  a 
first  depot  of  provisions  here,  with  the  view  of  carrying 
out  a  more  extended  search  as  soon  as  circumstances 
would  permit.  It  was  desirable  at  the  same  time  to 
ascertain  the  state  of  the  roads,  by  which,  of  course,  I 
mean  the  yet  untrodden  surface  of  the  snow  or  ice,  in 
the  direction  in  which  we  meant  to  go,  before  com- 
mencing any  transport,  on  a  large  scale,  between  the 
ship  and  Furj'^  Beach  ;  and  it  was  thought  advisable, 
therefore,  to  go  comparatively  light.  A  small  supply 
of  pemmican  was  all  we  took  with  us  in  addition  to  our 
travelling  requirements,  consisting  of  a  tent  and  poles, 
blanketing  and  provisions  for  a  week,  some  guns  and 
ammunition,  fuel,  and  a  cooking  apparatus,  in  all 
weighing  from  two  hundred  to  two  hundred  and  fifty 
pounds." 

Troubles  and  difficulties,  not,  however,  of  a  very  seri- 
ous kind,  assailed  them  at  the  very  commencement. 
The  "  roads  "  were  so  bad  as  to  be  almost  impassable, 
owing  to  the  ice  being  detached  from  the  shore,  and  so 
leaving  as  their  only  pathway  the  beach  at  the  base  of 
stupend(ni8  cliffs.  Huge  fragments  of  ice  and  large 
bowlder  stones  met  them  at  every  turn,  often  rendering 
it  a  work  of  extreme  difficulty  for  the  united  efforts  of 
dogs  and  men  to  drag  the  sledge  along.  Occasionally 
they  met  with  what  is  termed  a  "  pressure,"  or  a  set 
of  ice  upon  the  shore,  which  blocked  up  the  path  alto- 
gether, and  compelled  them  to  have  recourse  to  axes 


BELLOT. 


329 


to  cut  their  way  through  ;  and  sometimes  they  came  to 
banks  of  hard-drifted  snow  sloping  down  the  face  of  the 
clilFs,  and  leaving  only  an  inclined  plane  to  drag  the 
sledge  over.  On  one  occasion  Bellot  was  pitched  head 
foremost  into  one  of  these  huge  snow-drifts,  leaving 
only  six  inches  of  his  protruding  legs  to  tell  of  his 
whereabouts. 

The  first  night,  not  having  time  to  erect  a  snow-hut, 
owing  to  the  lateness  of  the  hour,  they  slept  in  the  tent, 
but  found  it  very  small  and  uncomfortable  ;  so  that,  on 
the  following  evening,  they  stopped  for  the  night,  after 
eight  hours'  walking,  and  built  their  snow-hut  at  the 
foot  of  a  high  precipice,  with  a  perpendicular  mass  of 
stranded  ice  at  the  bottom,  which  served  for  a  gable. 
The  ice,  which  was  undergoing  a  "  pressure,"  groaned, 
ground,  and  crashed  around  them  all  night,  and  finally 
left  them  in  the  morning  with  a  pile  at  least  thirty  feet 
high,  within  a  few  yards  of  the  encampment. 

On  the  8th,  being  within  a  short  distance  of  Fury 
Beach,  it  was  resolved  to  leave  the  sledge  and  two  of 
the  men,  while  Kennedy  and  Bellot,  with  one  man, 
should  proceed  forward  unencumbered.  Accordingly 
they  started,  and  got  over  the  ground  much  more  rap- 
idly than  before.  That  night  they  reached  Fury  Beach, 
and  stood  upon  the  spot  around  which,  for  reveral  days 
past,  their  anxious  hopes  had  been  circling ;  but  all 
was  still  and  desolate  as  the  grave.  "  Every  object  dis- 
tinguished by  the  moonlight  in  the  distance,"  says  Ken- 
nedy, "became;  animated,  to  our  imaginations,  into  the 
forms  of  our  long-absent  countrymen  ;  for,  had  they 
been  imprisoned  anywhere  in  the  Arctic  seas,  witliin  a 
reasonable  distance  of  Fury  Beach,  here,  we  felt  as- 
sured, some  of  them,  at  least,  would  have  been  now. 
But,  alas  for  these  fond  hopes  !  " 

It  was  with  sad  feelings  and  slow  steps  that  Keii- 
28* 


i'ti 


I 


ii 


11 


'  TV 


830 


WINTER  OCCUPATIONS. 


u 


nody  and  Bcllot  entered  the  ruined  walls  of  "  Somerset 
House,"  and  prepared  to  take  a  few  hours'  repose.  A 
fire  was  li;:!,-hted  iu  tlie  stove,  which  had  heated  the  end 
of  the  building-  occupied  by  Sir  John  Koss's  crew  during 
the  dreary  winter  of  1882-33.  Around  this  they  sat 
and  supped  ;  and,  after  reposing-,  set  out,  about  eleven 
p.  M.,  on  their  return  to  the  encampment  where  the 
sledge  had  been  left.  'They  reached  it  about  two  a.  m. 
of  the  following-  morning.  Prom  this  point  they  retraced 
their  steps  again  to  the  ship,  where  they  arrived  on  the 
10th,  at  live  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  without  having 
encountered  anything  worth  recording. 

During  the  winter,  travelling  parties  were  occasion- 
ally sent  out  for  the  purpose  of  placing  provisions  en 
cache,  for  the  benefit  of  those  who  should  afterwards 
undertake  a  journey  along  shore  to  the  southward,  and 
across  the  country  in  various  directions.  These  parties 
were  oi'ian  arrested  by  violent  gales  and  snow-storms, 
which  seem  to  have  prevailed  very  much  during  the 
whole  winter ;  so  much  so,  indeed,  that  the  veteran 
Hepburn  observed,  "  that  he  had  known  but  one  gale 
since  entering  Batty  Bay,  and  that  was  the  gale  which 
began  when  they  came,  and  ended  when  they  went 
aAvay  !  " 

They  had  a  good  library  on  board,  and  spent  much 
of  their  time  in  reading.  The  doctor  kept  school,  and 
the  crew  would  often  sit  in  groups,  listening  to  his  dis- 
courses, or  employed  in  making  flannel  socks,  canvas 
jackets,  and  other  useful  articles. 

Spring  now  drew  on  apace.  This  was  indicated  by 
the  increasing  power  of  the  sun  and  length  of  the  day, 
though  the  country  retained  its  wintry  aspect  for  months 
afterwards.  About  the  middle  of  February,  1852,  every- 
thing being  in  a  proper  state  of  advancement  for  the 
commeucement  of  the  "  grand  journey,"  preparations 


KENNEDY'S  JOURNEY. 


831 


:s,  canvas 


for  an  immediate  start  were  made  ;  and,  on  the  25th  of 
that  month,  equipped  witii  anow-shoes,  sledges,  and 
dogs,  they  left  the  vessel. 

The  party  which  now  set  out  were  a  detachment  of 
five  men,  under  the  command  of  Kennedy.  These  were 
to  be  followed  in  a  few  days  by  another  detachment, 
under  Bellot,  who  was  to  be  waited  for  at  P'ury  Beach, 
whence  the  whole,  amounting  to  fourteen  men,  were  to 
start  upon  hitherto  untrodden  ground.  They  were  es- 
corted as  far  as  the  south  point  of  Ba+iy  Bay  by  part 
of  the  ship's  company,  who  were  to  remain  l)ehind. 
At  this  point  they  separated  with  many  kind  farewells 
and  throe  hearty  cheers,  after  which  they  were  soon  lost 
to  each  other  in  th(;  mist. 

During  the  first  part  of  the  journey,  the  equinoctial 
gales  blew  with  great  violence.  They  wore  frequently 
detained  for  whole  days  at  a  time  iji  their  encampment 
by  these  fierce  winds,  from  whose  bitter  i'liry  they  were, 
however,  well  protected  by  the  snow-houses  which  they 
built.  "The  gale,"  says  Kennedy,  "  of  Saturday  (28th 
Fe])ruary)  continuing  during  three  days,  we  were  of 
necessity  com  3elled  to  remain  in  camp.  During  a  short 
interval,  abou :  the  2d  of  March,  the  weather  appearing  to 
get  more  moc  crate,  we  were  enabled  to  return  for  what 
cargo  had  been  left  behind  during  our  former  trip.  It 
was  taken  onward  as  far  as  we  dared,  and  we  returned 
to  the  camp  against  a  wind  so  keen,  that  no  face  escaped 
being  frost-bitten  —  the  strong  wind,  in  this  instance, 
being  tho  cause  rather  than  the  degree  of  temperature, 
for  this  was  comparatively  moderate.  On  the  morning 
of  the  3d  a  lull  of  an  hour  or  so  enticed  us  to  bundle 
up  and  lash  our  sleigh.  No  sooner  hcid  we  done  this, 
and  proceeded  a  short  distance,  than  the  gale  came  on 
with  redoubled  fury,  in  consequence  of  which  we  had 
to   hasten    back  to  our   snow  retreat,   and  wore   glad 


In  I 


832 


KENNEDY'S  JOURNEY. 


enough  to  have  been  still  so  near  a  sliclter  when  caught 
hy  it,  as  we  had  much  difliculty  in  keeping  on  our  feet, 
from  the  violence  of  the  whirling  eddies  that  came 
8weei)ing  along  an  exposed  headland  near  us.  Such 
was  the  force  of  the  wi'ul,  that  column  after  column  of 
whirling  spray  was  raised  ;V  it  out  of  a  continuous  lane 
of  water,  more  than  a  mile  broad,  which  the  present 
gale  had  opened  out  along  the  coast,  at  the  distance  of 
only  a  few  yards  from  our  present  encampment.  As 
these  successive  columns  were  lifted  out  of  the  water, 
they  were  borne  onward  with  a  speed  scarcely  less 
rapid  than  the  'wings  of  the  wind'  itself.  Whilst  de- 
tained here,  we  narrowly  escaped  being  buried  by  an 
infimt  avalanche  ;  a  hardened  mass  of  snow  of  several 
tons'  weight  having  been  disengaged  from  the  summit 
of  the  clilf  above  us." 

So  severe  did  this  part  of  the  road  prove,  that  the 
sledges,  moccasins,  and  snow-shoes,  were  severely  dam- 
aged. On  the  whole  party  being  collected  at  Fury 
Beach,  it  was  found  necessary  to  send  back  to  the  ship 
for  additional  supplies.  They  were  much  indebted  here 
to  the  old  stores  of  the  Fury,  which  were  found  to  be 
in  excellent  preservation,  although  they  had  lain  for 
thirty  years  exposed  to  the  weather  on  the  shores  of 
these  icy  seas. 

The  journey  on  which  they  had  now  entered  would 
occupy,  it  was  supposed,  about  three  months,  during 
which  time  they  hoped  to  survey  upwards  of  a  thousand 
miles.  It  was  found,  upon  calculation,  that  six  men 
could  not  carry  a  sufficient  quantity  of  provisions  to 
sustain  them  for  so  long  a  period ;  so  the  plan  was 
adopted  of  taking  fourteen  men  as  far  as  Brentford 
Bay,  from  which  point  eight  of  the  travellers  wore  to 
return  to  the  ship,  while  the  remaining  six  would  pro- 


KENNEDY'S  JOURNEY. 


833 


coed  onwards  with  as  much  as  thoy  could  jjossibly  drag 
or  carry  of  the  necessaries  of  life. 

Ainoiij^  their  provisioim  and  ecinipincnta,  procured 
from  the  oUl  ik'posit  at  Fury  JJeaeli,  were  seveu  hun- 
dred and  fifty  jxHinds  of  [)enimiean,  one  small  sack  of 
Hour,  live  gallons  of  spirits  of  wine,  a  liundred  and 
twenty  pounds  of  coal,  four  hags  of  biscuits,  and  various 
knives,  saws,  astronomical  instrument!^,  &c. 

Of  these  old  stores  of  tiio  Fury,  Ivennedy  says,  he  found 
the  provisions  "not  only  in  the  best  preservation,  but 
much  superior  in  quality,  after  thirty  years  of  exposure 
to  the  weather,  to  some  of  our  ov  u  stores,  and  those 
supplied  to  the  other  Arctic  expeditions.  This  high 
state  of  preservation  I  cannot  help  attributing  in  some 
measure  to  the  strength  and  tiiickness  of  the  tins,  in 
which  the  preserved  meats,  vegetables,  and  soups,  hiid 
been  i)lace(l.  The  Hour  had  all  caked  in  solid  hnnps, 
which  had  to  be  reground  and  passed  through  a  sieve 
before  it  was  fit  for  the  cook's  hainls.  In  other  respects 
it  was  fresh  and  sweet  as  ever,  and  supplied  us  with  a 
stock  of  excellent  biscuit." 

These  articles,  with  tiic  tackling  and  sledges,  made 
altogether  a  total  dead  weight  of  about  two  thousand 
tons  ;  the  whole  being  lashed  down,  to  the  smallest  i»os- 
sible  compass,  on  four  flat-bottomed  Indian  sledges,  two 
f)f  which  were  drawn  by  the  five  dogs,  assisted  by  two 
of  the  men,  the  other  two  being  dragged  by  the  rest  of 
the  party. 

It  was  a  fine,  clear,  mild  day  when  they  started,  and 
they  found  the  travelling  very  good  m  first,  the  beach 
being  flat,  and  the  ice  sufficiently  smootli  to  admit  of 
proceeding  with  facility.  Fortune,  however,  seldom 
favors  Arctic  travellers  long.  They  soon  iound  their 
bright  sky  overcast,  and  the  mild  breeze  changed  into 
a  cold,  bitter,  frosty  gale.     Under  these  circumstances 


!     * 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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23  WiST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


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884 


KENNEDY'S  JOURNEY. 


they  travelled  from  day  to  day,  enduring  it  as  stoically 
as  possible,  and  making  up  to  some  extent  for  their  dis- 
comfort while  travelling  by  enjoying  themselves  beneath 
their  snow-burrows  during  the  few  hours  allotted  to  re- 
pose. The  frost-biting  of  their  faces,  however,  became 
at  last  so  intolerable,  that  they  fell  upon  the  expedient 
of  protecting  the  parts  most  vulnerable  by  means  of 
sundry  curious  and  original  kinds  of  coverings.  "For 
the  eyes,"  says  Kennedy,  "we  had  goggles  of  glass,  of 
wire-gauze,  of  crape,  or  of  plain  wood  with  a  slit  in  the 
centre,  in  the  manner  of  the  Esquimaux.  For  the  face, 
some  had  cloth-masks,  with  neat  little  crevices  for  the 
mouth,  nose,  and  eyes  ;  others  were  muffled  up  in  the 
ordinary  chin-cloth,  and,  for  that  most  troublesome  of 
the  facial  members,  the  nose,  a  strong  party,  with 
our  always  original  carpenter  at  their  head,  had 
gutta-percha  noses,  lined  with  delicate  soft  flannel." 
These  contrivances,  though  admirable  in  theory,  proved 
complete  failures  in  practice.  They  were  ultimately 
discarded,  with  the  exception  of  the  chin-cloths  and 
goggles.  . 

The  daily  routine  of  operations  was  as  follows  :  They 
rose  at  six,  but  o'd  not  dress — having  slept  in  their 
clothes,  that  operation  was  unnecessary  ;  then  they 
breakfasted  ;  after  which  came  the  bundling  up  and 
lashing  of  the  sledges,  and  the  harnessing  of  the  dogs  — - 
the  latter  operation  always  being  accomplished  amidst 
considerable  uproar.  Then  came  the  start ;  Kennedy 
leading  the  way,  Bellot  following,  and  the  party  in  a 
string  bringing  up  the  rear.  So  on  they  went,  over  hill 
and  dale  and  along  shore,  from  morn  till  night,  stopping 
every  hour  for  five  minutes  to  rest  the  men  and  breathe 
the  dogs,  and  halting,  when  opportunity  offered,  to  find 
their  latitude  and  longitude.  The  construction  of  a 
enow-hut,  and  the  consumption  of  the  evening  meal, 


KENNEDY'S  JOURNEY. 


335 


concluded  the  labors  of  the  day,  which  were  seldom 
over  before  nine  or  ten  at  night. 

On  the  6th  of  April  they  arrived  at  Brentford  Bay, 
and  the  fatigue-party  began  their  retrograde  journey  to 
the  ship. 

At  this  point  Kennedy  discovered  a  strait  running 
westward,  which  was  found  to  separate  North  Somerset 
from  Boothia  Felix,  and  was  named  Bellot  Strait,  in 
honor  of  the  gallant  young  Frenchman,  who  had  secured 
the  aifectionate  regard  not  only  of  the  leader  of  the 
party,  but  also  of  all  the  men.  Thence  Kennedy  crossed 
over  Victoria  Strait  to  Prince  of  Wales  Land,  naming 
the  most  prominent  headlands,  bays,  and  islands.  Nu- 
merous tracks  of  deer,  wolves,  bears,  and  musk-oxen, 
were  seen  ;  but  none  of  the  animals  themselves,  except 
one  bear,  which  came  incautiously  close  to  the  snow- 
hut,  and  was  chased  away  by  the  dogs. 

On  the  nth  April  the  thermometer  indicated  -|-'^2  ; 
"  a  temperature,"  says  Kennedy,  "  which,  to  our  sensa- 
tions, was  absolutely  oppressive.  One  of  our  dogs, 
through  over-exertion,  combined  with  the  unusual  heat, 
fainted  in  his  traces,  and  lay  gasping  for  breath  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  ;  but,  after  recovering,  went  on  as 
merrily  as  ever.  These  faithful  creatures  were  perfect 
treasures  to  us  throughout  the  journey.  They  were  all 
suflfering,  like  ourselves,  from  snow-blindness,  but  did 
not  in  the  least  relax  their  exertions  on  this  account. 
The  Esquimaux  dog  is,  in  fact,  the  camel  of  these  north- 
ern deserts  ;  the  faithful  attendant  of  man,  and  the 
sharer  of  his  labors  and  privations." 

During  a  great  portion  of  the  journey  the  men  were 
much  annoyed  by  snow-blindness,  caused  by  the  fierce 
glare  of  the  sun  upon  the  snow ;  and  this  was  rendered 
all  the  more  unbearable  by  the  sharp  winds  which  pre- 
vailed so  much,  and  dashed  the  drift  into  their  eyes. 


Hi 


f 


836 


KENNEDY'S  JOURNEY. 


The  country  over  which  they  travelled  was  generally 
very  flat,  rendering  it  a  matter  of  no  small  difficulty  to 
keep  their  westerly  course,  the  compasses  being  of  lit- 
tle use  in  such  close  proximity  to  the  magnetic  pole. 
Their  great  hope  in  travelling  westward  was,  that  they 
should  meet  with  a  sea  which  would  conduct  them 
northward  to  Cape  Walker,  and  so  enable  them  to 
ascertain  whether  or  not  there  was  any  promising  west- 
ern channel  or  strait  through  which  Franklin  might  have 
penetrated.  After  thirteen  days'  marching,  however, 
they  reached  the  hundredth  degree  of  west  longitude 
without  meeting  with  the  wished-for  ocean  ;  so  it  was 
resolved  to  turn  their  steps  northward. 

"Being  now  satisfied,"  says  Kennedy,  "that  Sir 
James  Ross  had,  in  his  land  journey  along  the  western 
shore  of  North  Somerset,  in  1849,  mistaken  Me  very 
low  and  level  land  over  which  we  had  been  travelling 
for  a  western  sea,  I  felt  no  longer  justified  in  continuing 
a  western  course.  Whatever  passage  might  exist  to 
the  south-west  of  Cape  Walker,  I  felt  assured  must  now 
be  on  our  north.  I  determined,  therefore,  from  this  time 
forward,  to  direct  our  course  northward,  until  we  should 
fall  upon  some  channel  which  we  knew  must  exist  not 
far  from  us,  in  this  direction,  by  which  Franklin  might 
have  passed  to  the  south-west."  -    ■•  'T 

The  weather  still  continued  boisterous  and  change- 
able. The  channel  of  which  they  were  in  search  was 
nowhere  to  be  found.  Scurvy,  too,  began  to  show  itself 
among  the  m  n  ;  so  it  was  resolved  to  turn  eastward 
again,  and  proceed  towards  the  channel  laid  down  to 
the  east  of  Cape  Bunny,  which  they  resolved  to  follow 
up  to  Cape  Walker. 

During  the  march  they  met  several  herds  of  deer,  and 
succeeded  in  shooting  a  few  brace  of  ptarmigan.  As 
they  had   no   means  of  cooking  them,  however,  they 


KENNEDY'S  JOURNEY. 


337 


adopted  the  practice,  common  among  Indians,  oi  freez- 
ing them,  and,  wliile  in  this  state,  eating  them  raw  ; 
and  we  are  assured  that  a  "frozen  ptarmigan,  after  a 
hard  day's  march,  is  by  no  means  an  unwelcome  addi- 
tion to  an  Arctic  traveller's  bill  of  fare  !  " 

At  last  they  arrived  at  Cape  Walker.  Its  bold  and 
conspicuous  headland  first  met  their  gaze  on  the  4th 
of  May  ;  but  here,  as  at  Fury  Beach,  they  were  doomed 
to  disappointment.  Not  a  sign  of  Franklin's  expedition 
having  visited  the  spot  was  to  be  met  with.  Bellot 
carefully  followed  the  windings  of  the  rough  ice  outside 
the  beach,  in  order  to  have  a  commanding  view  of  the 
cliffs,  while  Kennedy  searched  along  shore  ;  but  all  with- 
out success.  Ignorant  that  he  had  been  preceded  by 
Captain  Austin's  parties,  Kennedy  mistook  the  large 
cairn  they  had  erected  for  a  part  of  the  cliff,  and  actu- 
ally walked  over  a  smaller  one  deeply  covered  with  snow, 
without  for  a  moment  suspecting  that  the  spot  had  been 
previously  visited.  If  the  large  cairns,  formed  by  the 
parties  of  Ommaney  and  Osborne  the  previous  spring, 
v.„uld  thus  be  overlooked,  might  not  signals  erected  by 
Franklin  have  been  equally  undistinguishable  amid  the 
deep  snow  which  enveloped  this  bleak  and  rugged 
coast  ? 

Their  stock  of  provisions  now  getting  very  low,  Ken- 
nedy's party  were  obliged  to  go  on  short  allowance  ; 
«,nd,  to  make  it  last  longer,  they  fed  the  dogs,  from  this 
time  forward,  on  "old  leather  shoes,  and  fag-ends  of 
buffalo  robes"  —  on  which,  we  are  told,  "they  thrived 
wonderfully."  It  is  added  that  one  old  snarling  brute, 
who  had  received  the  name  of  Boatswain  from  the  men 
on  account  of  his  ill-nature,  "  never  seemed  thoroughly 
to  enjoy  his  meals  till  put  upon  a  course  of  old  shoes." 

From  this  time  the  men  grew  worse  and  worse  with 
scurvy  ;   but  were  much  revived  by  lighting  upon  a 

m 


1 


338 


KENNEDY'S  JOURNEY. 


small  depot  of  provisions,  which  hud  boon  left  near 
Cape  McClintock  by  Sir  Jarnca  Ross,  in  1849.  This 
enabled  them  to  start  again  with  vigor  for  Whaler 
Point,  wliich  thoy  reached  on  the  15th,  and  at  which 
place  they  remained  until  tlie  27th,  making  free  use  of 
the  lime-juice,  cranberries,  etc.,  which  were  deposited 
there.  After  being  sufficiently  restored,  they  started 
on  their  return  to  the  ship,  which  they  finally  reached 
on  the  30th  of  May,  having  been  absent  ninety-seven 
days,  during  which  time  six  men  with  five  dogs  had 
travelled  about  eleven  hundred  miles,  dragging,  for 
most  of  the  way,  two  thousand  pounds'  weight,  sleep- 
ing in  snow-houses,  encamping  at  times  on  frozen  seas, 
and  rarely  having  fire  when  they  halted  to  recruit. 

The  travellers  found  that  all  had  gone  on  well  at 
Batty  Bay,  in  their  absence.  Nothing  now  remained 
but  to  get  the  ship  clear  of  ice  and  return  home.  But 
there  was  little  as  yet  in  the  appearance  of  ice  or  land 
to  indicate  that  June  had  returned,  except  the  falling  in 
of  some  of  tlie  snow-houses.  Gradually,  however,  the 
fierce  glare  of  the  sun  began  to  make  itself  felt :  and, 
on  the  6th  of  August,  after  some  sawing  and  blasting, 
the  imprisoned  vessel  was  liberated.  On  the  19th  Ken- 
nedy reached  Beechey  Island,  where  he  found  the  depot- 
ship  North  Star,  attached  to  SirE.  Belcher's  expedition, 
engaged  in  sawing  into  winter  quarters.  On  the  lib.  of 
October,  1853,  the  Prince  Albert  arrived  in  England. 

In  concluding  his  narrative,  Kennedy  remarks  of  the 
young  Frenchman  who  was  associated  with  him,  and 
whose  subsequent  fate,  in  connection  with  the  history 
of  Arctic  discovery,  is  interesting  :  ''  To  M  .  Bellot, 
my  constant  companion,  not  only  do  I  owe  the  most 
valuable  assistance  from  his  scientific  attainments,  but 
his  amiable  (Qualities  ha\'e  cemented  a  deep  personal 
regard,  which  can  only  end  with  my  life." 


RAE'S   LAND    tquRNEY. 


339 


near 
Thia 
baler 
yvhich 
ise  of 
osited 
tartecl 
jached 
-seven 
>'S  had 
,g,   for 
,  sleep- 
n  seas, 
it. 

well   at 
jmained 
e.     But 
or  land 
lling  in 
ver,  the 
t:  and, 
lasting, 
th  Ken- 
e  depot- 
edition, 
e  Uh  of 
Hand. 

of  the 
nn,  and 
history 
Bellot, 
le  most 
nts,  but 
;:>crsonal 


Meanwliile  researches  from  the  North  American  coast 
were  renewed  by  Mr.  Rae.  He  left  Fort  ConruU'nce,  on 
the  Coppermine,  April  25tli,  1851,  witli  four  men  and 
three  sledges  drawn  by  dogs.  Reaching  tlie  coast  ^lay 
1st,  he  found  the  ice  favorable  for  travel.  On  the  5th 
he  landed  at  Douglas  Island,  and  on  the  tth  gained  tlie 
opposite  shore.  Traversing  it  to  tlie  east,  until  ho 
reached  110°  W.  longitude,  where  his  survey  met  that 
of  Dease  and  Simpson,  he  retraced  his  steps,  and  ad- 
vanced west  until  lie  turned  Cape  Baring,  past  latitude 
70°,  and  longitude  117°  W.  From  some  elevated 
ground  in  this  neighborhood  high  land  could  be  seen 
to  the  north,  but  none  was  visible  to  the  west.  He  got 
back  to  his  provision  station  on  the  Kendall  River  upon 
the  10th  of  June,  having  travelled  eight  luindred  and 
twenty-four  geographical,  or  nine  hundred  and  forty- 
two  English  miles,  in  forty  days.  In  this  lengthened 
journey  his  arrangements  were  much  the  same  as  during 
his  survey  of  Committee  Bay.  lie  slept  in  snow  houses, 
and,  as  he  advanced,  buried  provisions  to  serve  for  his 
return.  In  the  months  of  July  and  August  he  explored 
the  coast  of  Victoria  Land,  east  and  north,  in  boats  ; 
marking  every  indentation,  from  the  101st  to  the  llltli 
degree  of  latitude  —  an  achievement,  under  the  circum- 
stances, of  which  any  oflBcer  might  be  proud.  On  this 
newly-discovered  coast  he  met  many  parties  of  Esqui- 
maux ;  but  his  inquiries  as  to  the  grand  subject  were 
all  fruitless.  The  American  coast  had  now  been  dili- 
gently examined,  from  the  entrance  of  Behring's  Strait 
to  the  head  of  Hudson's  Bay  ;  and  the  conclusion  was, 
that  Franklin  never  reached  so  low  a  latitude. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

BIU     EDWARD    BELCIIKr's     KXPEDITIOK. — ARRIVAL     IX    BAFFIN'S    BAY. — 
THB    AMERICAN    WIIALKR.  —  ARRIVAL     AT  BEECHEY    ISLAWU. — BKARCil 

COMMENCED. INGLEFIELD'S     VOYAGE. THREE    MORH     EXPEDITIONS. 

INGLEFIELD's    return. NEWS    FROM    m'cLTJRE. PARRY    AND    FRANK- 

Li:f. — m'cLUHE'S  EXPLORATIONS.  —  ADVENTURES  WITH  ESQUIMAUX. — 
PERILOUS  NAVIGATION. — DISCOVERY  OF  THB  NORTH-WEST  PASSAGE. — 
PERSONAL  PERILS.  —  ABUNDANCE  OP  GAME.  —  WINTER  QUARTERS.  — 
BLEDGE-PARTIES.  —  STILL  FROZEN   UP.  —  PLAN   OF   ESCAPE. 

The  unexpected  and  somewhat  premature  return  of 
the  squadions  under  command  of  Captains  Austin  and 
Penny,  in  the  autumn  of  1851,  Increased  the  universal 
desire  that  the  mysterious  fate  of  Sir  John  Franklin's 
expedition  should  be  thoroughly  investigated.  The 
interesting  details  brought  back  of  the  discovery  of 
Franklin's  winter  quarters  on  Beechey  Island,  in  1845- 
46,  revived  the  hopes  that  had  begun  to  fade  rapidly 
away.  The  opinion  of  those  engaged  in  the  sledging 
operations  of  1851,  that  the  missing  ships  had  pro- 
ceeded up  Wellington  Channel,  and  entered  the  open 
sea  discovered  by  Captain  Penny,  and  believed  by  him 
to  be  the  great  polar  basin,  —  and  the  supposition  that 
the  lost  ones  might  still  be  imprisoned,  and  alive,  in  its 
gloomy  solitude  of  ice,  —  all  tended  to  influence  the 
public  mind  in  favor  of  a  continuance  of  the  eearch. 

Accordingly,  in  the  spring  of  1852,  another  expedi- 
tion—  the  most  extensive  that  had  yet  sailed  for  the 
polar  regions — was  fitted  out,  and  placed  under  the 
command  of  Sir  Edward  Belcher.  This  squadron  con- 
sisted of  five  vessels  —  i;he  Assistance,  the  Resolute, 


SIR  EDWARD  BELCHER'S  EXPEDITTON. 


341 


the  North  S^ar,  and  two  steamers,  the  Pioneer  and 
Intrepid.  These  sot  sail  in  April  fur  BalTin's  Bay,  pnr- 
posing  to  make  lieochey  Island  their  head-quarters, 
whence  the  various  vessels  were  to  set  out,  separately 
or  together,  as  might  be  thought  best,  to  search  the 
neighboring  coasts.  The  Assistance  and  Pioneer  were 
directed  to  sail  up  Wellington  Channel,  under  the  com- 
n  and  of  Sir  Edward  lielcher.  The  other  two  were  to 
proceed,  under  Captain  Kellett,  to  Melville  Island,  there 
to  deposit  provisions  for  the  use  of  Captain  Collinson 
and  Commander  M'Clure,  should  these  gentlemen  bo 
successful  in  making  the  passage  from  Behring's  Strait, 
for  which  they  had  set  sail,  it  will  be  remembered,  in 
January,  1850.  The  North  Star  was  to  remain  at 
Beechey  Island,  as  a  depot  store-ship. 

The  squadron  sailed  from  England  on  the  28th  April, 
1852.  Ori  the  Gth  of  July  it  was  making  its  way  through 
the  ice  in  Baffin's  Bay,  in  company  with  a  fleet  of 
whalers,  which  were  there  beset.  Caught  at  the  head 
of  a  bight  in  the  ice,  with  the  Assistance  and  the  Pio- 
neer, the  Resolute  was,  for  the  emergency,  docked 
there  ;  and,  by  the  ice  closing  behind  her,  was  for  a 
while  detained.  Meanwhile  the  rest  of  the  fleet, 
whalert,  and  discovery  ships,  passed  on  by  a  little  lane 
of  water,  the  American  whaler  McLellan  leading. 

The  North  Star,  '>f  the  English  squadron,  followed  the 
McLellan,  Along  >,  lin  stretched  out  behind,  —  whalers 
and  government  ships,  as  they  happened  to  fall  into  line, 
—  a  long  three  quarters  of  a  mile.  It  was  lovely  weather, 
and,  though  the  long  lane  closed  up  so  that  they 
could  neither  go  back  nor  forward,  nobody  appre- 
hended injury,  till  it  was  announced,  on  the  morning  of 
the  Tth,  that  the  McLellan  was  nipped  in  the  ice,  and 
her  crew  were  deserting  her.  Sir  Edward  Belcher  sent 
his  carpenters  to  examine  her,  put  a  few  charges  of 

29* 


342 


blU  EDWARD   IIELCIIEU'S  EXPEDITION. 


powder  in  the  ice  to  relievo  the  pressure  upon  lier, 
and  by  the  end  of  the  day  it  was  ai^ieed  that  her  injuries 
could  be  repaired,  and  her  crew  went  on  board  ag'ain. 
liut  the  next  niorning-  there  wtv*  ii  I'resh  wind,  the  Mc- 
LelUui  was  caug'ht  aj^'ain,  and  the  water  poured  into  her, 
u  steady  stream.  Siie  drifted  about,  unnianii^.;:ible,  now 
into  one  sin'p,  now  into  another  ;  and  the  English  whale- 
men began  to  pour  on  board,  to  help  themselves  to  such 
l)lunder  as  they  chose.  At  the  captain's  request,  Sir 
Edward  Belcher,  to  put  an  end  to  this,  sent  sentries  on 
board  ;  and  he  also  sent  working-  parties,  to  clear  her  as 
lar  as  might  be,  and  keep  account  of  her  stores.  In  a 
day  or  two  more  she  sank  to  the  water's  edge,  and  a 
(•harge  or  two  of  powder  put  her  out  of  the  way  of 
harming  the  rest  of  the  licet.  After  such  a  week  spent 
together,  it  will  easily  be  understood  that  the  New 
London  whalemen  did  not  feel  strangers  on  board  one 
of  Sir  Edward's  vessels,  when,  as  we  shall  see,  they 
fcnind  her  "  ready  for  occupation,"  three  years  and  more 
afterwards. 

Ou  the  10th  August  the  squadron  reached  its  ap- 
pointed hcad-cjuarters  at  Beechey  Island.  The  season 
was  remarkably  open  ;  Wellington  Channel  and  Bar- 
row's Straits  were  equally  clear  of  ice.  On  the  14th  Sir 
E.  Belcher,  with  the  Assistance  and  Pioneer,  stood  up  the 
channel ;  and  the  following  day  Capt.  Kellett,  with  the 
Resolute  and  Intrepid,  sailed  in  open  water  for  Melville 
Island.  In  this  position  we  leave  the  expedition  for  the 
present,  and  proceed  to  give  an  account  of  the  next  that 
entered  the  field. 

In  consequence  of  the  report,  set  afloat  by  Sir  John 
Ross,  on  the  authority  of  liis  Esquimaux  interpreter, 
that  Franklin  and  his  crews  had  been  murdered,  by  the 
natives,  at  Wolsteuholme  Sound,  Lady  Franklin  refitted 
the  Isabel  screw-steamer,  and  sent  her  out,  under  Com- 


ING  LEFIELD'S   KX  I'KDITION. 


343 


mandor  Iiij::lofi«'l(l,  to  iiHccrttiiii  tlin  tnitli  of  tho  Hlory. 
Inf^Iclicld  HsiiliMl  irom  Eiigluiid  on  tin;  (Jtli  July,  IH52  ; 
coasted  the  injrtlicu'M  shores  of  JJullin's  Bay  ;  advanced 
much  furtlier  up  Whale  Sound  than  any  previous  navi- 
fi^ator,  —  findiufji',  as  he  procec^ded,  an  immense  expanse  of 
open  water  ;  and  pushed  throup;-!!  Smith's  Sound  as  far 
as  latitude  7^i**  28'  21"  north,  without  discovering^  any 
opposing^  land.  Instead  of  the  narrow  strait  which 
Smith's  Sound  has  usually  been  thought,  Captain  Ing'le- 
field  found  it  about  thirty-six  miles  across,  expanding 
considerably  as  it  extended  northward.  The  sea  was 
open  —  that  is,  free  from  islands,  except  one  looming  in 
the  extreme  distance,  to  which  the  discoverer  gave  the 
nani'^  of  Louis  Napoleon.*  From  appearances,  the 
header  of  the  expedition  iiderred  that  he  had  reachtul  a 
more  genial  climate  than  that  of  Baflin's  Bay  ;  instead 
of  the  eternal  snow  which  he  had  left  behind,  the  rocks 
appeared  of  their  natural  color.  Tiiere  was  ice,  indeed, 
and  in  pretty  large  quantities  ;  some  of  the  mariners 
conceived  they  saw  an  ice-blink  to  the  north  ;  but  the 
captain  thought  he  could  steam  through.  A  gale,  how- 
ever, arose,  which,  increasing  in  violence,  fairly  blew 
them  back  —  perhaps  providentially,  for  they  were  not 
well  fitted  to  winter  in  those  high  latitudes,  with  the 
probability  of  being  held  fast  for  an  indefinite  time. 

"  It  was  deemed,  by  every  one  on  board,  madness  to 
attempt  a  landing  ;  and  thus,"  says  Inglefield,  "  I  was 
forced  to  relinquish  those  desires  ere  we  bore  up,  which, 

♦  "  An  island  similar  in  position  to  that  design  ted  by  Capt.  Inglefield 
as  Louis  Napoleon  does  not  exist.  Tho  land  sighted  in  that  direction 
may  have  been  tho  top  of  a  high  mountain  on  tho  north  side  of  Franklin 
Piercfi  IJay,  though  this  pupposition  retiuires  us  to  assume  an  error  in  the 
bearing  ;  for,  as  given  in  tho  chart,  no  land  could  be  within  the  range 
of  sight.  In  deference  to  Capt.  Inglefield,  I  have  continued  for  this  prom- 
ontory tho  name  which  he  had  inipreseed  upon  it  as  an  island."  —  Kane^s 
Narrative  of  the  Second  Grinndl  Expedition,  vol.  i.,  page  323. 


844 


INGLEFIELD'S  EXPEDITION. 


with  the  liOHvy  f^ulo  that  now  bhiw,  waH  tho  most  pru- 
doiit  Htop  1  could  take.  Tho  rent  of  th(!  27th  and  the 
foUowin^  day  wore  spent  in  rcaciiing,  under  snug*  sail, 
on  either  tack,  whilst  tho  pitiless  northerly  gale  drove 
tho  sleet  and  snow  into  our  faces,  and  rendered  it  pain- 
ful work  to  watch  for  tlic  icebergs,  that  we  were  contin- 
ually passing.  On  this  account,  I  could  not  heave  the 
ship  to,  as  the  diflicuUy  of  discerning  ohjects  rendered 
it  imperative  that  she  should  bo  kept  continually  under 
full  command  of  tho  helm.  The  temperature,  25®,  and 
tho  continual  freezing  of  tho  spray,  j>.s  it  broke  over  the 
vessel,  cond)ined  with  the  slippery  state  of  tho  docks 
from  the  sleet  that  fell  and  the  ice  which  formed  from 
the  salt  water,  made  all  working  of  ropes  and  sails  not 
only  disagreeable,  but  almost  impracticable  ;  so  that  I 
was  not  sorry  when  the  wind  moderated. 

"  By  four  a.  m.,  of  tho  29th,  it  fell  almost  to  a  calm  ; 
but  a  heavy  swell,  the  thick  fog  and  mist  remaining, 
precluded  our  seeing  any  distance  before  us  ;  and  thus 
wo  imperceptibly  drew  too  near  the  land-pack  ofl'  the 
western  shore,  so  that,  a  little  after  Mr.  Abernethy  had 
come  on  deck,  in  the  morning  watch,  I  was  called  up, 
as  he  said  that  the  ship  was  drifting  rapidly  into  the 
ice.  Soon  on  deck,  I  found  that  there  was  no  question 
on  that  score  ;  for  even  now  tho  loose  pieces  were  all 
round  us,  and  the  swell  was  rapidly  lifting  the  ship  fur- 
ther into  the  pack,  whilst  the  roar  of  waters,  surging 
on  the  vast  floe-pieces,  gave  us  no  very  pleasant  idea 
of  what  would  be  our  fate  if  we  were  fairly  entrapped 
in  this  frightful  chaos.  The  whale-boat  was  lowered, 
and  a  feeble  effort  made  to  get  her  head  off  shore  ;  but 
still  in  we  went,  plunging  and  surging  amongst  the 
crushing  masses. 

"  While  I  was  anxiously  watching  the  screw,  upon 
which  all  our  hopes  were  now  centred,  I  ordered  the 


INGLEFIKLD'S  EXPEDITION. 


845 


boiler,  which  had  been  under  repair,  and  was  partly 
diHconnocted,  to  bo  ra[)idly  sccMired,  the  iiroH  to  bo 
lig'hted,  and  to  <^vt  up  the  Htoain  ;  in  the  mean  tini'j  the 
tacl<U.'S  were  ^ot  up  lor  hoiHtin^  out  our  loii<]^-boat,  and 
every  preparation  was  made  Ibr  the  worst.  Each  man 
on  board  knew  ho  was  working-  Ibr  his  lite,  and  each 
toiletl  with  his  utmost  mig-ht  ;  ice-anchors  were  laid  out, 
and  haw^sers  got  u[)on  either  bow  and  ([uarter,  to  keep 
the  ship  from  drivinj.^  furtljer  in  ;  but  two  hours  must 
elapse  before  we  could  expect  the  use  of  the  en<;-ine. 
Eager  were  tlie  incpiiries  when  will  the  steam  be  up  ? 
and  wood  and  blul)ber  were  heaped  in  the  furnace  to  get 
up  the  greatest  heat  we  could  conunand. 

"At  last  the  engineer  reported  all  was  ready;  and 
then,  warping  the  ship's  head  round  to  seaward,  wo 
screwed  ahead  witli  great  caution  ;  and  at  last  found 
ourselves,  througb  God's  providence  and  mercy,  relieved 
from  our  difliculties.  It  was  a  time  of  the  deepest  sus- 
pense to  me  ;  the  lives  of  my  men  and  the  success  of  our 
expedition  depended  entirely  on  the  safety  of  the  screw  ; 
and  thus  I  watched,  with  intense  anxiety,  the  pieces  of 
ice,  as  wo  drifted  slowly  past  them  ;  and,  passing  the 
word  to  the  engineer,  *  Ease  lier,'  *  Stop  her,'  till  the 
huge  masses  dropped  into  the  wake,  we  succeeded,  with 
much  difficulty,  in  saving  the  screw  from  any  serious 
damage,  though  the  edges  of  the  fan  were  burnished 
bright  from  abrasion  against  the  ice." 

Besides  penetrating  one  hundred  and  forty  miles 
further  than  previous  navigators,  and  finding  an  open 
sea  stretching  northwards,  from  ^^affin's  Bay,  to  at 
least  the  latitude  of  80°,  Captain  Inglefield  discovered 
a  strait,  in  about  ^1^°,  which  he  named  Murchison 
Strait,  and  which  he  supposed  to  form  a  northern  bound- 
ary to  Greenland.  In  addition  to  the  shores  of  the 
polar  basin,  he  more  accurately  surveyed  the  eastern 


346 


THREE  MORE  EXPEDITIONS. 


Bide  of  Balliu's  Bay,  IVoiii  Carey's  IslaiiTls  to  Capo  Alex- 
ander, often  reiiKiiniiij^  (  n  deck  the  four-antl-tweiity 
hours  round  —  for  night  there  was  none.  He  entered 
Jones's  Sound,  but  was  stopped  by  the  ice,  and  came  to 
the  conclusion  that  there  is  no  available  channel  from 
the  sound  into  the;  polar  basin,  thoug'h  there  is  possibly 
some  narrow  frozi'U  strait.  Inglelield  then  made  for 
Beochey  Island,  where  he  arrived  on  the  1th  Septend)er, 
and  where  he  met  the  North  Star,  the  depot  ship  of  the 
Admiralty  expedition.  Tiience,  after  a  short  delay,  ho 
shaped  his  course  houioward.  In  spite  of  the  advancing 
season,  he  examined  a  considerable  i)art  of  the  western 
coast  of  Baflin's  Bay  ;  and,  though  sorely  beset  on  more 
than  one  occasion,  nuimiged  to  get  through,  and  reached 
Stromness  on  the  4th  of  November  —  exactly  four 
months  from  the  date  of  his  departure  from  Woolwich. 

It  is  hardly  necessary  to  add  that  Inglelield's  investi- 
gations established  the  utter  falsity  of  the  story  told 
by  Sir  John  Koss's  interpreter. 

In  the  beginning  of  the  year  1853  three  expeditions 
were  fitted  out,  partly  to  continue  the  search  for  Frank- 
lin, and  partly  to  reinforce  the  vessels  already  in  the 
field  of  action.  The  ^Rattlesnake,  under  Commander 
Trollope,  and  the  Isabel  screw-steanier  —  again  refitted 
by  Lady  Franklin,  and  placed  under  the  command  of 
Mr.  Kennedy  —  sailed  for  Behring's  Strait,  in  order  to 
carry  supplies  to  Captains  ColHnson  and  M'Clure.  Mr. 
Rae  was  again  despatched  to  the  Isthmus  of  Boothia,  to 
make  a  further  examination  of  the  coast  in  that  quarter  ; 
and  Commander  Inglelield  was  sent  to  Barrow's  Straits, 
with  the  Ph(xinix  aiid  the  Lady  Franklin,  to  reinforce 
the  squadron  under  Sir  E.  Belcher.  Mr.  Grinnell,  of 
New  York,  aided  by  Mr.  Feabody,  of  London,  also  fitted 
out  an  expedition,  under  the  command  of  Dr.  E.  K. 
KaJie,  and  sent  it  to  explore  the  passages  leading  out 


TIDINGS  OF   M'CLURE. 


347 


of  Bnftin's  Bay  into  the  unknown  ocean  around  the 
pol(  '. 

In  the  autumn  of  1853  the  deep  interest  of  tlic  British 
nation  was  aroused  by  tlie  return  of  Captain  Inglelicld, 
in  tlic  Phoinix,  witli  desi)atclie8  conveying  the  intelli- 
gence tluit  the  north-west  passage  had  at  length  be(>n 
discovered  by  Captain  M'Clure,  of  the  Investigator,  who 
liad  passed  through  Behring's  Strait,  and  sailed  to 
within  a  few  miles  of  the  most  westerly  discoveries 
made  from  the  eastern  side  of  America,  at  wiiich  point 
ho  had  been  fro/en  up  for  more  than  two  years,  and 
where  his  ship  still  lay,  unable  to  advance  or  to  retreat. 
No  vessel  had  yet  made  the  entire  passage  ;  but,  from 
the  two  extreme  points  of  discovery,  on  either  side, 
parties  from  the  Investigator  had  walked  over  the  frozen 
ocean;  and  one  gentleman  —  namely,  Lieut.  Cresswell, 
the  bearer  of  despatches  Trom  Captain  M'Clure  —  had 
sailed  from  England,  entered  Behring's  Strait,  and 
returned  again  to  England  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  hav- 
ing thus  passed  through  the  long-sought  north-west 
passage.  ' 

This  interesting  intelligence,  coupled  with  the  an- 
nouncement of  M'CIiire's  safety,  concerning  which  mucl; 
anxiety  had  begun  to  be  felt,  was  joyfully  received  ; 
and  Lieut.  Cresswell,  the  bearer  of  the  good  news,  was 
treated  with  marked  attention  in  England.  At  a  public 
dinner,  given  him  in  his  native  town  of  Lynn,  Sir  Edward 
Parry,  who  was  present,  made  some  remarks  on  the 
probable  fate  of  Sir  John  Franklin,  which  will  be  read 
with  interest  in  this  connection  : 

"  While  we  are  rejoicing  over  the  return  of  our  friend, 
and  the  probable  return  of  his  shipmates,  we  cannot  but 
turn  to  that  which  is  not  a  matter  of  rejoicing,  but  rather 
a  matter  of  sorrow  and  regret  —  that  there  has  not  been 
found  a  single  token  of  our  dear  long-lost  Franklin  and 


t  :l 


m 


348 


SIR  EDWARD  PARRY'S  OPINIONS. 


his  companions.  Not  only  has  that  been  the  case  in  the 
expedition  in  which  Lieut.  Gurney  Cresswell  has  been 
engaged,  but  I  understand  it  to  be  tlie  case  with  Sir 
Edward  Belcher,  who  has  gone  up  the  Wellington  Inlet, 
where  I  certainly  thought  traces  must  be  found,  because 
at  Beechey  Island  we  knew  Franklin  passed  the  first 
winter  when  he  went  out.  There  we  found  three  graves 
of  his  men,  —  and  that  is,  up  to  the  present  moment, 
the  only  token  whatever  we  have  received  of  him.  I 
do  consider  it  a  most  mysterious  thing,*  and  I  have 
thought  of  it  as  much  as  anybody.  I  can  form  but  a 
single  idea  of  the  probable  fate  of  Franklin.  I  do  not 
agree  with  our  friend  Garney  Cresswell  about  the  prob- 
ability of  both  ships  having  gone  down,  and  nothing 
been  seen  of  them,  because,  although  it  is  true  that 
nothing  might  have  been  seen  of  the  ships  themselves, 
I  do  not  believe  the  crews  would  have  all  perished 
at  one  moment.  I  think  there  is  that  stuff  and 
stamina  in  one  hundred  and  thirty  Englishmen,  that, 
somehow  or  other,  they  would  have  maintained  them- 
selves as  well  as  a  parcel  of  Esquimaux  would.  They 
would  have  found  the  Esquimaux,  and  there  would  have 
been  something  like  a  trace  of  them,  if  they  had  been  on 
earth.  The  only  thing  which  I  can  suggest  is  this  : 
Wellington  Strait  was  discovered  by  myself,  on  the 
expedition  I  spoke  of.  It  is  a  large  opening  from  Lan- 
caster Sound. 

"  When  I  was  going  up  westward  from  Melville 
Island,  we  saw  Wellington  Strait  perfectly  free  from 
ice,  and  so  I  marked  it  on  my  chart.  It  was  not  my 
business  to  go  north  as  long  as  I  could  get  west,  and, 
therefore,  we  ran  past  and  did  not  examine  it ;  but  it 
has  always  been  a  ftivorite  idea  of  those  who  imagined 
that  tlie  north-west  passage  was  to  be  easily  made  by 
going  north.     That,  we  know,  was  the  favorite  idea  of 


SIR  EDWARD  PARRY'S  OPINIONS. 


349 


Franklin  ;  and  we  know  he  did  intend,  if  he  could  not 
p^et  westward,  to  go  up  Wellington  Channel.  We  have 
it  from  his  own  lips.  My  belief  is  still  that,  after  the 
first  winter,  he  did  go  up  that  channel ;  and  that,  having 
steam-power  (which  I  had  not  in  my  thne),  it  is  possible 
he  may  have  gone  up  in  a  favorable  season ;  for  you 
cannot  imagine  anything  more  different  than  a  favorable 
and  an  unfavorable  season  in  those  regions.  You  can- 
not imagine  the  changes  that  take  place  in  the  ice  there. 
I  have  been  myself  sometimes  beset  for  two  or  three 
days  together  by  the  ice,  in  such  a  way  that  from  the 
mast-head  I  could  not  see  sufficient  water  to  float  that 
bottle  in  ;  and  in  twenty-four  hours  there  was  not  a  bit 
of  ice  to  be  seen  —  nobody  could  tell  why  —  I  cannot 
tell  why  ;  and  you  might  have  sailed  about  as  you  may 
in  your  own  river,  as  far  as  ice  is  concerned. 

"  Therefore,  in  a  favorable  season  he  may  have  gone 
up  that  inlet,  and  may,  by  the  power  of  steam  and 
favorable  circumstances,  have  got  so  far  to  the  north- 
east that,  in  an  ordinary  season,  he  could  not  get  back 
again.  And  those  who  knew  Franklin  know  this  — 
that  he  would  push  on,  year  after  year,  so  long  as  his 
provisions  lasted.  Nothing  could  stop  him.  He  was 
not  the  man  to  look  back,  if  he  believed  the  thing  was 
still  possible.  lie  may  have  got  beyond  the  reach  of 
our  searching  parties  ;  for  Sir  Edward  Belcher  has  not 
been  able  to  get  far  up,  and  we  have  not  been  able  to 
get  the  investigation  completed.  In  speaking  of  Frank- 
lin, every  one  will  feel  sorrow  for  his  probable  fate. 
My  dear  friend  Franklin  was  sixty  years  old  when  he 
loft  this  country  ;  and  I  shall  never  forget  the  zeal,  the 
almost  youthful  enthusiasm,  with  which  that  man  entered 
upon  that  expedition.  Lord  Haddington,  who  was  then 
first  lord  of  the  Admiralty,  sent  for  me,  and  said,  '  T 
see,  by  looking  at  the  navy-list,  that  Franklin  is  sixty 
30 


350 


M'CLURE'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


years  old :  do  you  tliiiik  wc  ought  to  let  him  go?'  I 
said,  '  He  is  a  litter  man  to  go  than  any  I  know  ;  and  if 
you  don't  let  him  go,  the  man  will  die  of  disappoint- 
ment.' lie  did  go,  and  has  been  gone  eight  years  ;  and, 
therefore,  I  leave  to  yourselves  to  consider  what  is  the 
probability  of  the  life  of  that  excellent  and  valuable  man. 
In  the  whole  course  of  my  experience  I  have  never 
known  a  man  like  Franklin.  I  do  not  say  it  because  he 
is  dead  —  upon  the  principle  de  mortais  nil  nisi  bonum ; 
but  I  never  knew  a  man  in  whom  different  qualities 
were  so  remarkably  combined.  In  my  dear  friend 
Franklin,  with  all  the  tenderness  of  heart  of  a  simple 
child,  there  was  all  the  greatness  and  magnanimity  of  a 
hero." 

To  this  toucliing  tribute,  from  the  lips  of  a  fellow- 
navigator,  we  append  the  following  beautiful  lines, 
quoted  by  a  writer  in  one  of  the  British  quarterly  re- 
views : 

"  Where  is  he  ?  —  where  ?     Silence  and  darkness  dwell 
About  him  ;  as  a  soul  cut  ofif  from  men  : 
Shall  wo  behold  him  yet  a  citizen 
Of  mortal  lil'o  ?     Will  he  return  to  tell 
(Prisoner  from  Winter's  very  citadel 
Broken  forth)  what  ho  before  has  told,  again 
How  to  the  hearts  and  hands  of  resolute  men,  ■  •      ' 

God  aiding,  nothing  is  impossible  ?  .  j  j 

Alas  !  the  enclosure  of  the  stony  wave 
Is  strong,  and  dark  the  depths  of  polar  night  ;  , 

Yet  One  there  is  omnipotent  to  save,  z* 

And  this  we  know,  if  comfort  still  wc  crave,  ;    .        <  vt 

Into  that  dark  he  took  with  him  a  light  — 

The  lamp  that  can  illuminate  the  grave."  ., 

It  will  be  remembered  that  Captains  Collinson  and 
M'Clurc  sailed  for  Behring's  Strait  in  1850,  through 
which,  in  connection  with  the  Plover  and  Herald,  they 
endeavored  to  pass,  but  without  success,  except  in  the 
case  of  the  Investigator  (Captain  M'Clure),  which  was 


M'CLURE'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


351 


seoii  on  the  -ith  August,  1850,  bearing'  gallantly  into 
the  heart  of  the  "  polar  pack."  The  Enterprise  (Cap- 
tain Collinson),  finding  it  impossible  to  follow,  sailed  to 
I  long-Kong,  and  wintered  there  ;  but  in  May,  1851, 
returned  to  Behring's  Strait,  and  succeeded  in  enter- 
ing the  ice.  The  Plover  remained  at  Port  Clarence,  as 
a  reserve  for  these  two  vessels  to  fall  back  upon,  while 
the  Herald  returned  to  England.  From  that  date 
nothing  was  heard  of  these  two  vessels,  until  the  arrival 
of  the  Phcjenix,  with  the  despatches  of  Captain  M'Clure, 
bringing  assurance  of  the  safety  of  the  Investigator. 

On  parting  company  with  the  Ilorald  in  Behring's 
Strait,  in  July,  1850,  Captain  M'Clure  stood  to  the 
nortli-north-west,  with  a  fresh  breeze,  with  the  intention 
of  making  the  ice,  which  was  accomplished  on  the  2d 
of  August.  During  several  days  the  Investigator  battled 
with  the  foe  —  now  boring  through  densely-packed 
masses,  and  then  winding  among  the  lanes  which 
opened  here  and  there  as  the  currents  or  winds  acted 
upon  the  pack.  Occasionally  they  struck  with  consid- 
erable violence,  but  succeeded,  at  len.gth,  in  rounding 
Point  Barrow,  and  discovered  clear  water  on  the  after- 
noon of  the  Tth  —  so  far  ahead,  however,  that  it  could 
only  be  seen  from  the  "crow's  nest.'* 

Hundreds  of  walruses  were  seen  huddled  together  on 
the  ice,  like  sheep  in  a  fold.  M'Clure  seems  to  have 
been  rather  favorably  impressed  in  regard  to  these  ani- 
mals, on  account  of  the  aftection  shown  by  the  mothers 
for  their  young.     He  would  not  allow  them  to  be  shot. 

The  most  remarkable  feature  of  the  walrus  consists  in 
two  teeth,  or  tusks,  which  project  in  a  curved  line  from 
the  upper  jaw,  and  are  nearly  two  feet  in  length.  They 
are  of  beautiful  white  bone,  almost  equal  to  ivory,  and 
much  used  in  the  fabrication  of  artificial  teeth.  The 
front  face,  when  seen  at  a  little  distance,  bears  a  striking 


P 


352 


M'CLURE'S  EXPLOKATIONS. 


1:' 


resemblance  to  the  human  ;  and  its  appoirance  is  sus- 
pected to  have  sometimes  given  rise  to  the  fanciful 
reports  of  mermaids  in  the  nortliern  seas.  The  wah'us 
is  monogamous,  and  the  mother  brings  forth  her  young 
only  one  at  a  birth,  either  on  tlie  shore  or  on  the  ice. 
Like  all  the  cetaceous  tribes,  to  which  the  walrus  is 
allied,  he  is  disposed  to  be  peacefd  and  harmless. 
Pavry  describes  the  supine  security  with  which  a  num- 
ber of  them  lay  on  the  icp,  piled  over  each  other,  with- 
out discomposing  themselves  at  the  approach  of  a  party 
armed  for  their  destruction.  In  Spitzbergen,  however, 
where  they  have  been  long  the  object  of  chase  to  the 
Russian  hunters,  they  are  reported  to  keep  very  strict 
watch ;  it  being  said  that  one  stands  guard  while 
the  others  sleep.  Even  when  sensible  of  danger,  they 
are  not  forward  to  face  it,  but  rather  shun  the  attack  by 
rushing  beneath  the  ice,  while  those  behind,  with  their 
tusks,  urge  forward  their  companions.  Yet,  when  they 
are  compelled  to  combat,  they  give  battle  with  the 
utmost  coolness  and  courage  ;  they  then  stand  firm  by 
each  other,  rush  in  one  united  body  against  the  boats 
(as  in  the  attack  on  the  Trent's  boat,  page  Tl),  and,  strik- 
ing with  their  tusks,  endeavor  to  overset  them.  When 
repulsed,  too,  they  repeatedly  rally,  and  in  the  end 
yield  only  to  the  fire-arms  of  Europeans,  or  to  the  strat- 
agems of  the  Esquimaux.  Maternal  tenderness,  and 
the  determination  with  which  the  female  defends  her 
3'oung,  are  equally  conspicuous  in  them  as  in  the  whale 
species.     The  walrus  must  live  near  open  water. 

"  The  wind,"  writes  McClure,  "  almost  immediately 
failing,  the  boats  were  all  manned,  and  towing  com- 
menced amid  songs  and  cheers,  which  continued,  with 
unabated  good-humor,  for  six  hours.  Being  in  perfectly 
clear  water  in  Smith's  Bay,  a  light  air  springing  up,  we 
worked  to  the  eastward.     At  two  a.  m.  of  the  8th,  being 


IJiUll 


M'CLURE'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


353 


off  Point  Drew,  I  sent  Mr.  Court  (second  master)  on  shore 
to  erect  a  cairn,  and  bury  a  notice  of  our  having-  passed. 
Upon  landing,  we  were  met  by  three  natives,  wlio  at 
first  were  very  timid ;  but,  upon  exchanging  signs  of 
friendship,  which  consisted  of  raising  the  arms  three 
times  over  the  head,  they  approached  the  boat,  and, 
after  the  pleasant  salutation  of  rubbing  noses,  became 
very  communicative  ;  when,  by  the  assistance  of  our 
valuable  interpreter,  Mr.  Micrtsching,  we  found  the 
tribe  consisted  of  ten  tents  (this  being  the  only  approach 
to  their  numbers  he  could  obtain) ;  that  they  had  ariived 
only  three  days  previously,  and  that  they  hold  commu- 
nication with  a  party  inland,  who  trade  with  the  Kussian 
Fur  Company."  They  had  observed  us  the  evening 
before,  and  had  thought  our  masts  were  trees  in  motion, 
and  wondered  at  the  sight. 

The  natives  seen  here  had  spent  their  lives  between 
the  Coppermine  River  and  Point  Barrow  ;  and,  from  the 
circumstances  of  their  not  having  met  with  any  of 
Franklin's  party,  M'Clure  concludes  that  the  latter 
could  not  have  been  lost  on  these  shores.  "  The  coast," 
says  he,  "  is  inhabited  throughout,  and  the  natives  are, 
to  all  appearance,  a  kind  and  merry  race ;  and,  when 
we  gave  them  presents,  through  the  medium  of  the 
interpreter,  we  told  them  that  we  were  looking  for  our 
lost  brothers,  and  if  they  saw  any  white  men  in  distress 
they  were  to  be  very  kind  ;  to  which  they  ivssented  by 
saying  that  they  would,  and  would  give  them  '  plenty 
of  deer's  flesh.'  " 

So  narrow  was  the  passage  of  open  water  between 
the  ice  and  the  shore,  along  which  the  Investigator  had 
to  pass,  that  she  had  great  difficulty  sometimes  in  tack- 
ing, —  requiring  to  do  so,  in  some  places,  pearly  every 
ten  minutes  ;  and,  on  one  occasion,  they  actually  took 
the  ground  while  "  in  stays."  Fortunately  the  bottom 
30* 


854 


M'CLURE'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


■ 


was  soft  clay,  and  they  hove  ofl"  ag-aiii  irn.:^cdiatoly. 
(JradtiaUy,  liowover,  the  hiuc  widened,  the  reaches 
became  long'er  and  long-er,  and  all  ap})rehension  of  being 
forced  on  shore  was  soon  over.  On  the  10th  of  August, 
1850,  tlwy  passed  the  mouth  of  the  Colville  River,  the 
influence  of  which  stream  was  found  to  extend  twelve 
or  fourteen  miles  out  to  sea ;  the  surface,  at  that  dis- 
tance from  shore,  being  of  a  dirty  mud-color,  and 
scarcely  salt.  ■    • 

At  this  part  of  the  coast  they  again  fell  in  with 
natives,  who  came  off  in  two  haidars,  to  the  number  of 
thirty.  A  very  animated  and  curious  scene  ensued.  A 
vigorous  barter  was  immediately  commenced,  after  the 
curiosity  of  the  wondering  Esquimaux  with  regard  to 
the  ship  was  satisiied.  Their  imitative  propensity  was 
rather  oddly  brought  into  play  during  the  traffic.  See- 
ing- the  sailors  cut  the  tobacco  into  pieces,  to  give  in 
exchange  for  salmon-trout,  they  at  once  began  to  do 
the  same  with  i\\<)  fish  !  but  were  soon  checked  in  this, 
and  were  obliged  to  succumb  to  the  white  men. 

During  the  afternoon,  while  standing  along  a  low  flat 
island,  a  pair  of  seal-skin  inex^^  ressiblos  were  observed 
fluttering  from  the  top  of  a  pole,  held  up  by  a  number 
of  natives,  who  took  this  method  of  intimating  their 
desire  to  receive  a  visit.  Li  obedience  to  the  signal, 
the  boats  were  lowered,  and  pulled  in  to  the  shore. 
The  Esquimaux  appeared  to  regret  their  temerity,  how- 
ever ;  for,  on  the  near  approach  of  the  sailors,  the  inex- 
pressibles were  dropped,  i\\u\  the  whole  tribe  fled.  As 
usual,  however,  they  regained  courage  on  observing  the 
friendly  gesticulations  of  the  whito  men,  and  soon 
approached  them,  tossing  up  their  arms,  and  making 
other  signs  of  friendship ;  ending,  at  last,  by  rubbing 
noses  with,  and  affectionately  embracing,  the  gallant 
tars.       '  =    -  ^  ....•.,-  r  ..,.-,   >   ■     v-  -.)?•■ 


M'CLURE  S  EXPLORATIU^•S. 


365 


TIicso  poor  people  }>ad  never  seen  white  men  before  : 
they  had  no  article  of  European  manufacture  about  their 
persons,  and  spent  their  lives  in  liunting  walruses  and 
seals  on  these  low  islands  during  the  summer  months, 
retiring  to  their  warm  residences  on  the  mainland  during 
winter.  Afto"  holding  some  communication  with  them, 
throu  "h  the  medium  of  the  interpreter,  Captain  M'Clure 
l'>ft  them,  having  first  made  them  a  few  presents,  and, 
among  other  things,  a  boat's  ensign,  in  commemoration 
of  the  first  man-ol-war  whose  Hag  has  floated  over  these 
sterile  regions.  The  magnificence  of  this  latter  gift 
quite  astounded  them,  and  caused  them  to  rush  tumult- 
uously  to  their  canoes  to  carry  it  off  to  their  women, 
whiO  were  encamped  on  another  island  close  at  hand. 

Some  of  these  primitive  people  were  apparently 
addicted  to  stealing.  While  M'Clure  was  placing  some 
presents  in  the  right  hand  of  a  chief,  in  token  of  good 
will,  he  felt  the  fellow's  left  hand  in  his  pocket.  The 
Esquimaux,  however,  laughed  heartily  when  they  were 
caught  in  their  thefts  ;  and  so  the  Englishmen  thought 
best  to  do  the  same,  and  not  allow  peccadilloes  to  mar 
the  harmony  of  their  intercourse.        ^ 

Coasting  along,  as  they  found  opportunity,  the  voy- 
agers advanced  slowly  —  sometimes  with  much  and  some- 
times with  little  water  —  till  the  morning  of  the  13th, 
•^hen  the  ice  clqsed  round,  and  hemmed  them  in  com- 
pletely. In  this  dilemma,  the  boats  were  bcut  to  sound, 
and  shortly  returned,  reporting  a  pract.  .al'  passage  in 
three  fathoms  water.  Unfortunately,  the;'  hit  on  a  spot 
with  only  two  and  a  half  fathoms,  and  so  were  soon  fast 
aground.  As  it  turned  out,  however,  the  bottom  was 
sandy,  so  that  no  damage  was  done  to  the  ship  ;  but 
one  of  the  whale-boats,  which  contained  part  of  the 
cargo  taken  out  to  lighten  the  vessel,  upset,  and  eleven 
casks  of  salt  beef  were  lost.     This  was  a  serious  loss  at 


856 


M'CLURE'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


II ; 


sue  tiiiio.     Al'Uii'  five  hours'  hard  work,  they  got 

once  ihore  ijjto  deep  water. 

In  this  way  thoy  continued  to  coast  along  the  margin 
of  the  pack  lor  Hl)out  four  or  live  hundred  miles,  when 
it  became  sumevvliat  more  open.  It  was  now  resolved 
to  shape  a  ccnirse  to  the  north-north-west  for  Banks's 
Land.  In  doing  this,  however,  they  were  frequently 
obliged  to  alter,  and  often  to  retrace  their  course,  owing 
to  the  deceptive  nature  of  the  lanes  of  water,  and  the 
perplexing  fogs  that  constantly  prevailed,  obliging  them 
to  proceed  chiefly  by  soundings.  ,? 

On  the  2l8t  of  August  they  passed  the  mouth  of  the 
Mackenzie  Kiver,  and  made  the  Pelly  Islands.  Soon 
after,  they  reached  Warren  Point,  where  natives  were 
seen  on  the  shore  ;  and  as  M'Clure  wished  to  forward 
despatches  by  them,  if  possible,  to  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company's  posts  on  the  Mackenzie,  the  boats  were 
ordered  out.  M'Clure  believed  the  natives  to  have 
been  in  connection  with  these  posts,  and  expected  a 
friendly  reception  from  them.  "  Great,  therefore,"  says 
he,  "  was  my  surprise,  upon  approaching  the  beach,  to 
find,  instead  of  being  greeted  by  the  usual  friendly  signs, 
that  two  savages,  with  gesticulations  the  most  menacing, 
having  bended  bows,  with  arrows  on  their  strings,  and 
one  with  a  large  knife,  which  he  brandished  most  signifi- 
cantly, waved  us  ofl".  Taking  no  heed  of  these  hostile 
demonstrations,  we  pulled  in ;  they  retreated,  yelling 
furiously.  Upon  our  reaching  the  beach,  we  made  the 
same  signs  of  friendship  which  we  had  used  with  the 
Esquimaux  further  west,  but  without  any  effect,  until 
joined  by  the  interpreter,  who  was  in  full  native  costume. 
This  gave  them  confidence,  and,  upon  his  explaining  our 
friendly  intentions,  they  approached  ;  but  when  within 
about  thirty  yards,  remarking  some  muskets  which  the 
boat's  crew  had,  their  fury  revived.     To  pacify  them, 


M'CLUttE'S  EX1»L01UTI0NS. 


357 


licy  got 

)  margin 
!8,  when 
resolved 
Banks's 
cquently 
e,  owing 
,  and  the 
ing  them 

th  of  the     , 
:8.    Soon 
ves  were 
)  forward 
on's  Bay- 
tats  were 
I  to  have 
cpected  a 
re,"  says 
Deach,  to 
ly  signs, 
ncnacing, 
ings,  and 
st  signifi- 
50  hostile 
,  yelling 
made  the 
with  the 
ect,  until 
costume, 
iniug  our 
tn  within 
■hich  the 
lify  them, 


they  were  laid  upon  tiio  gronnd,  whore  they  bccatne  tlio 
object  of  a  cautious  cxuiiiiiiation.  Still  unsatislled,  tlicy 
beckoned  to  take  them  to  the  boat.  Seeing  that  noth- 
ing short  of  this  would  allow  of  any  communication,  1 
sent  them  away,  wiicn  tii(?y  approached,  and  perndtted 
us  to  examine  their  bows  and  arrows." 

It  was  found  that  these  Es(|uiinaux  had  no  communica- 
tion with  the  Mackenzie,  in  consequence  of  their  being  at 
war  with  the  neighboring  tribes,  and  having  had  several 
skirmishes  with  tiie  Indians  of  tliat  (juarter.  This  may 
in  some  measure  account  for  their  fierce  dispositions, 
BO  very  diilerent  from  tiiose  previously  met  with.  A 
flat  brass  button  was  observed  suspended  from  the  ear 
of  one  of  the  chiefs  of  tliis  tribe  ;  and,  on  being  ques- 
tioned as  to  where  he  got  it,  he  replied  that  "it  had 
been  taken  from  a  white  man  who  had  been  killed  by 
one  of  his  tribe.  The  white  man  belonged  to  a  party 
which  had  landed  at  oint  Warren,  and  there  built  a 
house  ;  nobody  knew  now  they  came,  as  they  had  no 
boat ;  but  they  went  inland.  The  man  killed  had 
strayed  from  the  party,  and  he  (the  chief)  and  his  son 
had  buried  him  upon  a  hill  at  a  little  distance." 

No  satisfactory  or  intelligible  reply  could  be  got  as 
to  when  this  event  occurred.  M'Clure  remained  at 
this  place  for  a  short  time  to  investigate  the  matter, 
but  only  found  two  huts,  which,  from  the  rottenness  of 
the  wool  of  which  they  were  built,  appeared  to  be  of  a 
very  old  date  indeed.  The  grave  of  the  white  man  was 
not  found.  - 

All  along  this  coast  they  met  with  parties  of  natives, 
who  almost  invariably  showed  a  hostile  front  on  their 
first  appearance,  and  as  invariably  became  amicable 
after  a  little  coquetting.  In  these  interviews  they  had 
frequently  curious  scenes,  especially  in  the  distribution 
of  presents  to  some  natives  near  Cape  Bathurst,  who 


3.08 


M'CLURE'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


could  scarcely  bo  rostraiuod  when  the  j^'iiudy  g"iftH  were 
iu'esented  to  tluur  loii^^iiig- eyes.  Mv,  Miertschiiig,  the 
interpreter,  was  always  of  the  greatest  use  on  these 
occasions,  and  won  so  much  the  esteem  of  one  old 
chiel',  that,  in  the  fulness  of  his  heart,  lie  i)rayed  him  to 
stay  with  the  tribe  forever;  and,  by  way  of  inducement 
to  do  so,  presented  him  with  his  daug-hter,  a  pretty  girl 
of  about  fifteen,  to  be  ids  wife,  assuring  him,  at  the 
same  time,  that  a  t<mt,  and  all  the  etceteras  of  an 
Esquimaux  establishment,  should  be  given  to  him  along 
with  her  I  They  were  frequently  invited  to  partake  of 
native  hosi)itality  in  the  shape  of  roasted  whale  and 
venison,  besides  salmon,  blubber,  and  other  Arctic 
delicacies. 

Great  numbers  of  whales  were  seen  about  this  time  ; 
also  a  polar  bear  on  a  fragment  of  ice.  On  the  r)th  of 
Septendier,  the  hopes  of  the  navigators  were  suddenly 
raised,  and  as  speedily  cast  down  again.  "  The  weather," 
says  M'Clure,  "  which  had  been  squally,  accompanied 
by  a  thick  fog  during  the  early  part  of  the  day,  cleared 
towards  noon,  when  a  large  volume  of  smoke '  was 
observed  about  twelve  miles  south-west.  ...  As 
divers  opinions  were  in  circulation  respecting  its  proba- 
ble cause,  and  the  ice-mate  having  positively  reported 
that  from  the  crow's  nest  he  could  distinguish  several 
persons  moving  about,  dressed  in  white  shirts,  and 
observed  some  white  tents  in  the  hollow  of  the  cliff,  I 
certaiidy  had  every  reason  to  imagine  they  were  a  party 
of  Europeans  in  distress  ;  for  I  was  convinced  that  no 
travellers  would  remain  for  so  long  a  period  as  we  had 
remarked  the  smoke,  for  their  pleasure  ;  therefore,  to 
satisfy  myself,  equally  as  others,  I  determined  to  send  a 
boat  on  shore,  as  it  was  now  calm.  The  first  whale- 
boat,  under  Lieut.  Cresswell,  with  Dr.  Armstrong  and 
Mr.  Miertsching,  was  despatched  to  examine  into  the 


ifts  woro 
liiip^,  tlU5 
m  tlioHO 
Olio  old 
(I  liim  to 
lucoinont 
•etty  girl 
n,  at  tho 
as  of  an 
lira  aloiij:^ 
intake  of 
lialc   and 
)r   Arctic 

Ilia  time ; 
;he  5th  of 
suddenly 
iveatlior," 
ompanied 
,  cleared 
okc ■ was 
As 
|its  proba- 
rcported 
h  several 
irts,  and 
|hc  cliff,  I 
a  party 
I  that  no 
we  had 
leforc,  to 
■o  send  a 
t  whale- 
long  and 
into  the 


M'CLUIiE'fcJ  EXI'LUKATIU.NS. 


CUU80,  who,  on  their  return,  reported  tliat  the  snioke 
einatiated  from  fifteen  small  inonnds  of  voh;anic  appt.'ar- 
unco,  occnpyin;^  a  H[)ace  of  ai)()ut  lifty  yards,  tlio  place 
stroiij^ly  impregnated  with  snlphur,  the  lower  inonnds 
being  about  thirty  feet  above  the  seadevel,  the  high- 
est about  lil'ty  feet.  Tiie  land  in  its  viirinity  was  blue 
clay,  much  intersected  with  ravines  and  deep  water- 
courses, varying  in  elevation  from  three  hundred  to  live 
hundred  teet ;  the  mark  of  a  reindeer  was  traced  to  a 
small  pond  of  water  immediate  ly  above  the  monnds. 
Notice  of  our  having  landed  was  left,  which  would  noo 
lc:ig  remain,  as  the  elilV  is  evidently  rapidly  crnnd)ling 
away.  Thus  th(j  mystery  of  the  white  shirts  and  tents 
was  most  satisfactorily  exi)lained.'' 

At  four  A.  M.  of  tho  Gth  they  were  ofl'  the  small 
islands,  near  Cape  Parry,  bearing  north-east-by-north, 
with  a  fine  westerly  breeze.  The  same  day,  high  land 
was  observed  on  the  port-bow,  on  tho  western  shore  of 
which  the  main  body  of  tho  ice  rested.  This  was  tho 
first  sight  obtained  of  terra  incogiiHa.  Hitherto  they 
had  been  sailing  along  a  shore  which  had  in  foriner 
years  been  surveyed,  on  foot  and  in  boats,  by  Fraidvlin, 
Back,  Deaae,  Simpson,  and  others  ;  althongh,  indeed, 
theirs  was  the  first  sliip  that  had  sailed  in  these  waters  ; 
bnt  the  land  which  now  appeared  to  them  on  the  left 
bow  was  quite  new.  Accordingly,  they  hove  to,  and 
landed  and  took  possession  in  tho  name  of  her  majesty, 
calling  it  "  Baring's  Island,"  in  honor  of  tho  first  lord 
of  the  Admiralty.  The  south  cape  of  this  land,  a  fine, 
bold  headland,  rising  almost  perpendicularly  to  tho 
height  of  about  a  thousand  feet,  was  named  "  Lord  Nel- 
son's Head."  The  latitude  was  found  to  be  11"  6'  north, 
longitude  123°  0'  west.  A  note  of  their  progress  being 
deposited  here,  they  returned  to  the  ship  and  sailed 
along  the  eastern   coast,   as  being  freer  from  ice  tliaii 


3G0 


M'CLURE'S   EXPLORATIONS. 


m  I 


that  on  the  west.  It  was  afterwards  found  that  the  land 
taken  possession  of,  instead  of  being  an  island,  was  the 
southernmost  point  of  the  shore  which  had  been  named 
"  Banks's  Land,"  by  Parry,  in  1820.  The  name  Baring 
Island  was  accordingly  changed  to  Baring  Land. 

"  We  observed,'^  writes  M'Cliire,  "numerous  traces 
of  reindeer,  hare,  and  wild-fowl.  Moss,  and  divers 
species  of  wild-flowers,  were  also  found  in  great  abun- 
dance ;  many  specimens  of  them,  equally  as  of  otlier 
subjects  of  interest  to  the  naturalist,  were  selected,  with 
much  care,  by  Dr.  Armstrong.  From  an  elevation 
obtained  of  about  five  hundred  feet,  we  had  a  fine  view 
towards  the  interior,  which  was  well  clothed  with  moss, 
giving  a  verdant  appearance  to  the  ranges  of  hills  that 
rose  gradually  to  between  two  thousand  and  three 
thousand  feet,  intersected  with  ravines,  which  must  con- 
vey a  copious  supply  of  water  to  a  large  lake  situated 
in  the  centre  of  a  wide  plain,  about  fifteen  miles  distant. 
The  sight  to  seaward  was  favorable  in  the  extreme  ; 
open  water,  with  a  very  small  quantity  of  ice,  for  the 
distance  of  full  forty  miles  toward  the  east,  insured 
good  progress  in  that  direction."  ■...:•{ 

At  noon,  September  9th,  1850,  observations  placed 
the  Investigator  only  sixty  miles  from  Barrow's  Strait. 
"I  cannot,"  writes  M'Clure,  "describe  my  anxious 
feelings.  Can  it  be  possible  that  this  water  communi- 
cates with  Barrow's  Strait,  and  shall  prove  to  be  the 
long-sought  north-west  passage  ?  Can  it  be  that  so 
humble  a  creature  as  I  am  will  be  permitted  to  perform 
what  has  baffled  the  talented  and  wise  for  hundreds  of 
years  "^  But  all  praise  be  ascribed  uiito  Him  who  hath 
conducted  us  so  far  in  safety.  His  ways  are  not  our 
ways  :  nor  the  means  that  He  uses  to  accomplish  his 
ends  within  oui  comprehension.  The  wisdom  of  the 
world  is  foolishness  with  Ilini."     Land  was  observed  to 


...-y    > 


M'CLURE'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


361 


t  the  land 
[,  was  the 
en  named 
lie  Baring- 
id. 

JUS  traces 
jid   divers 
reat  abun- 
}   of  other 
E!cted,  with 
elevation 
a  fine  view 
with  moss, 
,f  hills  that    -. 

and  three 
h  must  con- 
ike  situated 
liles  distant, 
e  extreme  ; 
ice,  for  the 
,st,  insured 

l^ons  placed 
j)w's  Strait, 
ay   anxious 
communi- 
to  be  the 
,be  that  so 
to  perform 
lundreds  of 
who  hath 
^re  not  our 
pmplish  his 
lorn  of  the 
:)bHerved  to 


the  eastward,  to  which  M'Clure  gave  the  name  of 
Prince  Albert's  Land.  Several  remarkable  peaks  ap- 
peared to  be  of  volcanic  origin. 

On  the  16th  the  Investigator  was  making  slow 
progress  toward  Barrow's  Strait;  and  on  the  17th  of 
September,  1850,  they  reached  their  most  advanced 
position,  in  latitude  T3°  10'  north,  and  longitude  111° 
10'  west,  about  thirty  miles  from  the  waters  of  that  series 
of  straits,  which,  under  the  names  of  Melville,  Barrow, 
and  Lancaster,  communicate  with  Baffin's  Bay.  At 
this  tantalizing  distance  the  ship  ceased  to  drift,  and 
the  ice  appeared  to  have  reached  a  point  beyond  which 
some  unknown  cause  would  not  allow  it  to  proceed. 
The  heavy  pack  of  Melville  Strait,  lying  across  the  head 
of  the  channel,  was  supposed  to  be  the  reason  of  the 
ice  of  Prince  of  AVales  Strait  ceasing  to  move  on  to 
the  north-east ;  and  the  impassable  nature  of  the  pack 
in  the  same  direction,  in  the  following  year,  confirmed 
this  hypothesis. 

On  the  9th  of  September  M'Clure  tells  us  he  had  de- 
bated in  his  mind  whether  to  abandon  all  hope  of  reach- 
ing Burrow's  Strait  that  year,  and  retrace  his  course 
southward  in  search  of  a  wintering  place,  or  to  hold  on, 
so  far  as  he  might,  and  run  the  risk  of  wintering  in  the 
pack.  "  I  decided,"  he  says,  "  on  the  latter  of  these 
two  courses  ;  "  and  the  consideration  which  influenced 
him  in  this  difficult  choice  was,  "  that  to  relinquish  the 
ground  obtained  through  so  much  labor  and  i.nxiety,  for 
the  remote  chance  of  finding  safe  winter  quarters,  would 
be  injudicious,  thoroughly  impressed  as  I  was  with  the 
absolute  importance  of  retaining  every  mile  to  insure 
any  favorable  results  while  navigating  these  seas." 
Besides  this,  it  was  desirable  to  hold  as  advanced  a 
position  as  possible,  in  order  that  the  spring  sledge- 
31 


362 


M'CLURE'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


IS 


I 


h 


III 


i 
V' 


II 


parties  in  1851  might  bo  at  once  set  to  work  upon  new 
and  unsearchod  coast-lines. 

The  smallest  pools  of  water  now  became  rapidly  cov- 
ered with  ice  ;  the  eider-duck,  the  hardiest  of  Arc  lic  birds, 
was  last  seen  on  the  23d  of  September.  On  the  2*7th, 
the  temperature  being  then  at  zero,  preparations  were 
begun  for  housing  over  the  ship.  These  preparations 
were  made  under  circumstances  that  might  well  shake 
the  nerves  of  a  strong  man.  As  the  ice  e.irged,  the 
ship  was  thrown  violently  from  side  to  side,  now  lifted 
out  of  water,  now  plunged  into  a  hole.  "  The  crushing, 
creaking,  and  straining,"  says  Captain  M'Clure,  in  his 
log,  "is  beyond  description  ;  the  officer  of  the  watch, 
when  speaking  to  me,  is  obliged  to  put  his  mouth  close 
to  my  ear,  on  account  of  the  deafening  noise." 

The  officers  had  just  time  to  congratulate  themselves 
upon  the  escape  from  past  dangers,  and  to  express 
gratitude  at  having  lost  only  thirty  miles  of  latitude  by 
the  drifting  of  the  pack,  when  a  change  of  wind  set  it 
all  again  in  motion.  The  28th  was  spent  in  breathless 
anxiety,  as,  helpless  in  their  icy  trammels,  they  swept 
northward  again  toward  the  cliffs  of  Princess  Royal 
Island. 

These  cliffs  rose  perpendicularly  from  the  sea  at  the 
part  against  which  the  ship  appeared  to  be  setting,  and, 
as  the  crew  eyed  them  for  a  hope  of  safety,  if  the  good 
craft  should  be  crushed  against  their  face,  they  could 
see  no  ledge  upon  which  even  a  goat  could  have  estab- 
lished a  footing,  and  an  elevation  of  four  hundred  feet 
precluded  a  chance  of  scaling  them.  To  launch  the  boats 
over  the  moving  pack  was  their  sole  chance,  —  and  that 
a  poor  one,  rolling  and  upheaving,  as  it  was,  under  the 
influence  of  wind,  tide,  and  pressure.         >  . 

"  It  looks  a  bad  job,  this  time,"  inquiringly  remarked 
one  of  the  sailors,  as  he  assisted  another  in  coiling  down 


DISCOVERY  OF  THE  NORTH-WEST  PASSAGE.      363 


pon 


new 


idly  cov- 
idc  birds, 
the  2*7  th, 
ions  were 
iparations 
rell  shake 
irged,  the 
now  lifted 
crushing, 
uvc,in  his 
i\\Q  watch, 
outh  close 


}} 


themselves 
to  express 
latitude  by 
ind  set  it 
breathless 
|they  swept 
|cess  Royal 

sea  at  the 
3tting,  and, 
lif  the  good 
they  could 
Ihave  estab- 
indred  feet 
kh  the  boats 
I — and  that 
under  the 

ly  rcTnarkcd 
l)iliiig  down 


neatly  a  frozen  hawser.  "  Yes  1 "  was  the  rejoinder,  as 
the  other  shaded  his  eyes  from  the  driving  snow,  and 
cast  a  glance  at  the  dark  clift'  looming  through  the 
storm,  "the  old  craft  will  double  up  like  an  old  basket 
when  she  gets  alongside  of  them  rocks  1  "  -       ' 

."'he  Investigator's  hour  was  not  yet  come,  however  ; 
and,  when  within  five  hundred  yards  of  the  rocks,  the 
ice  coach-wheeled  her  along  them,  and  finally  swept  her 
past  the  islands  upon  the  eastern  side. 

No  water  was  in  sight  from  the  mast-head ;  yet 
onwards  they  drifted  slowly,  and  on  the  30th  became 
again  stationary,  in  latitude  Vl°  60'  N.,  and  longitude 
in°  55'  W.,  very  nearly  as  far  north  as  they  had  sailed 
a  fortnight  before. 

"  On  the  8th  of  October,"  says  M'Clure,  "  our  per- 
plexities terminated  with  a  nip  that  lifted  the  vessel  a 
foot,  and  heeled  her  four  degrees  to  port,  in  conse- 
quence of  a  large  tongue  getting  beneath  her,  in  which 
position  we  quietly  remained."  Here  the  Investigator 
passed  the  winter  of  1850-51. 

From  the  10th  to  the  21st  of  October,  preparations 
were  made  to  despatch  a  sledge-party  to  the  northward 
to  reach  Barrow's  Strait,  and  get  assurance  of  the  fact 
of  the  discovery  of  a  north-west  passage.  A  remarka- 
ble rise  of  temperature  to  24°  plus  of  Fahrenheit,  from 
2°  minus,  with  the  wind  blowing  fresh  from  north-east, 
would  seem  to  indicate  that  the  winter  of  this  region  is 
modified  by  the  warm  air  from  the  open  water  of  Bar- 
row's Strait.  This  sudden  change  was  iu.  from  pleas- 
ant to  thcj  crew  ;  and  the  old  bauds  warned  the  novices 
against  "  being  fools  enough  to  pull  their  clothes  ofi*  on 
account  of  such  a  bit  of  sunshine  ;  for,  perhaps,  in  an 
hour's  time  Zero  would  be  about  again." 

On  the  21st  October,  1850,  IM'Cluro  started  for  Bar- 
row's Strait,  with  a  sledge  manned  with  six  men  ;  but  it 


864 


M'CLURE'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


\    ij 


broke  down  before  they  had  proceeded  far,  and  they  had 
to  send  to  the  ship  for  another.  It  did  not  reach  them 
till  the  next  day.  After  some  difficulty  in  crossing 
ridges  of  broken  ice,  they  reached  vast  fields  of  smooth 
ice  of  the  present  season's  formation ;  and  here  a  new 
obstacle  awaited  them.  The  autumnal  snow  had  accu- 
mulated upon  the  surface  of  these  young  ice-fields,  and, 
weighing  them  down,  caused  the  sea-water  to  flow 
through  sufficiently  to  render  the  under  part  of  the 
snow  almost  as  tenacious  as  clay.  The  fatigue  of  haul- 
ing two  hundred  pounds  apiece  over  such  a  road  was 
excessive.  Unfortunately,  no  water  could  be  had,  and 
the  crew  suficred  much  from  thirst ;  for  every  handful 
of  snow  which  they  thrust  into  their  parched  mouths 
augmented  rather  than  assuaged  their  suflerings,  as  it 
contained  more  or  less  of  the  salts  of  the  sea-water. 

On  the  24th  a  cape  was  seen  at  what  appeared  a  dis- 
tance of  twelve  miles,  and  every  man  now  dragged  with 
a  will,  in  the  hope  of  reaching  that  night  the  end  of  his 
journey  ;  but,  after  seven  hours'  labor,  the  cape  still 
retained  its  original  position,  and  they  seemed  not  a 
mile  nearer  to  it.  M'Clurc  then  saw  that  he  had  been 
much  deceived  in  its  apparent  distance,  owing  to  the 
clearness  of  the  atmosphere,  and  that  thirty  miles  was 
a  nearer  estimate  than  twelve  of  the  probable  length 
of  their  march.  After  a  night's  rest,  and  another  hard 
day's  work,  they  were  still  two  miles  off  the  cape,  when 
night  closed  in,  obliging  them  to  halt  and  encamp. 
Though  disappointed  in  not  sighting  Barrow's  Strait  on 
the  25th,  they  were  all  much  cheered  by  the  multiply- 
ing proofs  around  them  of  its  close  proximity.  Away  to 
the  north-east  they  already  saw  that  wonderful  oceanic 
ice  described  by  Sir  Edward  Parry  in  his  voyage  to 
Melville  Island,  in  1819.  The  latitude  was  now  13°  25'  N. 

The  morning  of  the  26th  October,  1850,  was  fine  and 


DISCOVERY   OF  THE  NORTH-WEST  PASSAGE.      8G5 


hey  had 
zh.  them 
crossing 
■  smooth 
re  a  new 
^ad  accu- 
;lds,  and, 
•  to  flow 
I't  of  the 

0  of  haul- 
road  was 

1  had,  and 
ry  handful 
3d  mouths 


L-ings, 


as  it 


L-water.      , 
3ared  a  dis- 
igged  with 
end  of  his 
cape  still 
imed  not  a 
had  been 
ing  to  the 
miles  was 
He  length 
other  hard 
|cape,when 
id  encamp. 
I's  Strait  on 
multiply- 
Away  to 
■ul  oceanic 
voyage  to 
13°25'N. 
,s  fine  and 


cloudless.  It  was  with  no  ordinary  feelings  of  joy  and 
gratitude  that  M'Oluro  and  his  party  started  before  sun- 
rise to  obtain  from  the  adjacent  hill  a  view  of  that  sea 
which  connected  their  discoveries  with  those  of  Sir 
Edward  Parry.  Ascending  a  hill  six  hundred  feet  above 
the  sea-level,  they  patiently  awaited  the  increase  of 
light  to  reveal  the  long-soughi-fur  north-wed  passage  from 
the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

As  the  sun  rose,  the  panorama  slowly  unveiled  itself. 
First  the  land  called  after  Prince  Albert  showed  out  on 
an  easterly  bearing  ;  and,  from  a  point  since  named 
after  Sir  Robert  Peel,  it  evidently  turned  &  <  y  to  the 
east,  and  formed  the  northern  entrance  of  tlie  channel 
upon  that  side. 

The  coast  of  Banks's  Land  terminated  about  twelve 
miles  further  on  than  where  the  party  stood ;  and  thenca 
it  turned  away  to  the  north-west,  forming  the  northern 
coast  of  that  land,  tae  loom  of  which  had  been  so  cor- 
rectly reported  by  Parry  more  than  thirty  years  before. 
Away  to  the  north,  and  across  the  entrance  of  Prince 
of  Wales  Strait,  lay  the  frozen  waters  of  Barrow's,  or, 
as  it  is  now  called,  Melville  Strait ;  and,  raised  as  they 
were  at  an  altitude  of  six  hundred  feet  above  its  level, 
the  eye-sight  embraced  a  distance  which  precluded  the 
possibility  of  any  land  lying  in  that  direction  between 
them  and  Melville  Island. 

The  north-west  passage  was  discovered  1  All  doubt 
as  to  the  water  communication  between  the  two  great 
oceans  was  removed  ;  and  it  now  alone  remained  for 
M'Clure,  his  officers  and  men,  to  perfect  the  work  by 
traversing  the  few  thousand  miles  of  known  ground 
betvreen  them  and  their  homes. 

The  position,  of  Mount  Observation,  from  which  the 
important  discovery  had  been  made,  was  ascertained  to 
be  in  latitude  73"  30'  39"  N.,  longitude  114"  39'  W. 
31* 


M! 
P* 

M  ^ 


3GG 


M'CLURE'S  EXPLORATIOXS. 


Tho  travellers  encamped  that  night  on  Cape  Lord  JoJin 
Russell,  and  cheered  lustily  as  they  reached  the  shores 
of  Barrow's  Strait.  A  mimic  bonfire,  oi  a  broken 
sledge  and  dwarf  willow,  was  lighted  by  the  seamen 
in  celebration  of  the  event. 

The  question  of  a  north-west  passage  was  now  placed 
beyond  all  doubt.  From  the  point  in  Bo,rrow's  Strait 
upon  which  they  were  looking — a  point  opposite  to 
Cape  Hay,  in  Melville  Island  —  Parry  had  sailed  into 
Baffin's  Bay  and  home.  The  existence,  therefore,  of  a 
water  communication  round  the  north  coast  of  America 
was  finally  demonstrated.  They  had  not  found  any 
trace  of  Franklin  ;  but  tliey  had  done  the  next  best 
thing,  and  enough  for  M'Clure's  fame. 

The  rapid  fall  of  temperature  now  warned  M'Clure 
that  he  should  return  without  delay  to  the  ship.  From 
Point  Lord  John  Russell,  the  coast  of  Banks^s  Land 
was  seen  to  trend  away  to  the  westward,  and  increase 
in  boldness  of  outline  and  altitude.  Much  vegetation, 
for  this  latitude,  was  observed,  and  numerous  traces  of 
animals,  such  as  the  deer,  hare,  and  ptarmigan,  as  well 
as  of  the  fox  and  wolf;  but  no  animal  was  seen.  A 
large  cairn  was  constructed,  a  duo  record  of  the  visil; 
of  the  part}''  placed  therein,  and  then,  in  the  teeth  of  a 
south-east  gale,  they  commemed  their  return  to  the 
Investigator. 

M'Clure  came  near  perishing  in  trying  to  get  back. 
On  the  30th  of  October,  at  two  p.  m,,  having  seen  the 
Princess  Royal  Isles,  and  knowing  the  position  of  the 
ship  from  them,  he  left  his  sledge,  with  the  intention  of 
pushing  for  the  ship,  and  having  a  warm  meal  ready  for 
his  men  on  their  arrival.  When  still  six  miles  from  the 
ship  the  night  overtook  him  ;  and  with  it  came  a  dense 
mist,  accompanied  with  snow-drift,  which  rolled  down 
the  strait,  and  obscured  every  object.     Unable  to  see 


DISCOVERY  OF  THE  NORTH-WEST  PASSAGE.       367 


3rd  John 
c  shores 
i  broken 
3  seamen 

3W  placed 
vv's  Strait 
)posite  to 
ailed  into 
ifore,  of  a 
f  America 
found  any 
next  best 

d  M'Clure 
lip.  From 
iks^s  Land 
[id  increase 
vegetation, 

s  traces  of 

■an,  as  well 
seen.     A 

3f  the  visit 
teeth  of  a 

,urn  to  the 


D 


get  back, 
g  seen  the 
tion  of  the 
ntention  of 
il  ready  for 
Hes  from  the 
,me  a  dense 
rolled  down 
able  to  see 


hia  road,  but  endcavorhig  to  preserve  a  couro  by  the 
wind,  M'Clure  continued  to  hasten  on,  until  repeated 
and  heavy  falls  amongst  the  broken  ice  warned  him  to 
desist,  or  incur  the  additional  peril  of  broken  limbs. 

"  I  now,"  he  says,  "  climbed  on  a  mass  of  squeezed-up 
ice,  in  the  hope  of  seeing  my  party,  should  they  pass 
near,  or  of  attracting  tlie  attention  of  some  one  on 
board  the  vessel  by  firing  my  fowling-piece.  Unfor- 
tunately, I  had  no  other  ammunition  than  what  it  was 
ioaded  with  ;  for  I  had  fancied,  when  I  left  the  sledge, 
that  the  two  charges  in  the  gun  would  be  all  I  should 
be  likely  to  require.  After  waiting  for  an  hour  patiently, 
I  was  rejoiced  to  see  through  the  mist  the  glare  of  a  blue 
light,  evidently  burnt  in  the  direction  in  which  I  had  left 
the  sledge,  I  immediately  fired  to  denote  my  position  ; 
but  my  fire  was  unobserved,  and,  both  barrels  being  dis- 
charged, I  was  unable  to  repeat  the  signal.  My  only 
hope  now  rested  upon  the  ship's  answering  ;  but  noth- 
ing was  to  be  seen  ;  and,  although  I  once  more  saw,  at 
a  greater  distance,  the  glare  of  another  blue  light  from 
the  sledge,  there  seemed  no  probability  of  my  having 
any  other  shelter  for  the  night  than  what  the  floe 
afforded.  Two  hours  elapsed  ;  I  endeavored  to  sec  the 
face  of  my  pocket-compass  by  the  light  of  a  solitary 
lucifcr  match,  which  happened  to  be  in  my  pocket ;  but 
in  this  hope  I  was  cruelly  disappointed,  for  it  fizzed 
and  went  out,  leaving  me  in  total  darkness. 

"  It  was  now  half-past  eight ;  there  wore  eleven  hours 
of  night  before  me,  a  temperature  15°  below  zero,  bears 
prowling  about,  and  I  with  an  unloaded  gun  in  my 
hands.  The  sledge-party  might,  however,  reach  the 
ship,  and,  finding  I  had  not  arrived,  search  would  bo 
made,  and  help  be  sent ;  so  I  walked  to  and  fro  upon 
my  hummock  until,  I  suppose,  it  must  have  been  eleven 
o'clock,  when  that  hope  flsd  likewise.     Descending 


b(j8 


M'CLURE'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


from  tde  top  of  the  slab  of  ice  upon  which  I  had  clam- 
bered, 1  found  under  its  lee  a  famous  bed  of  soft,  dry 
snow  ;  and,  thoroughly  tired  out,  I  threw  myself  upon  it 


'■!*^*rfL.^j5;^  *"' 


*S?*- 


UKSTING   IN   THE    SNOW. 


and  slept  for  perhaps  three  hours,  when,  upon  opening 
my  eyes,  I  fancied  I  saw  the  flash  of  a  rocket.  Jump- 
ing upon  my  feet,  I  found  that  the  mist  had  cleared  off, 
and  that  the  stars  and  aurora  borealis  were  shining  in 
all  the  splendor  of  an  Arctic  night.  Although  unable 
to  see  the  islands  or  the  ship,  I  wandered  about  the  ice 
in  different  directions  until  daylight,  when,  to  my  great 
mortification,  I  found  I  had  passed  the  ship  fully  the 
distance  of  four  miles." 

Ketracing  his  steps,  M'Clure  reached  the  Investigator 
on  the  31st  October,  very  tired,  but  otherwise  none  the 
worse  for  his  rough  and  dangerous  exposure  to  a  win- 
ter's night  in  1S°  north  latitude.  A  few  hours  after- 
wards the  sledge  arrived,  and  great  was  the  rejoicing 
on  board  at  the  news  confirming  the  discovery  of  a 
north-west  passage.  . 

During  the  absence  of  the  captain  and  his  party,  the 
officers  of  the  Investigator  had  no  '  3en  idle.  Upon 
the   adjacent  shores   of  Prince  of    vYales  Strait  they 


i  clam- 
ji't,  dry 
upon  it 


>  "V 


1  opening 
t.     Jump- 
leared  off, 
shining  in 
^h  unable 
ut  the  ice 
my  great 
fully  the 

Ivestigator 
none  the 
to  a  win- 

|>urs  after- 
rejoicing 

[very  of  a 

)arty,  the 
le.  Upon 
Irait  they 


DISCOVERY  OF   THE  NOllTU-WEST  PASSAGE.      3G0 

succeeded  in  killing  a  fine  herd  of  nuisk-uxen,  consisting 
of  three  bulls,  a  cow,  and  a  calf,  and  yielding  a  supply 
of  twelve  hundred  and  ninety-six  pounds  of  solid  nicut. 

During  the  first  fortnight  in  December  the  teinpor- 
ature  of  the  external  air  ranged  from  23°  to  37°  below 
zero,  whilst  between  decks  from  -\-iO°  to  -f-^^''  was 
the  average.  From  the  9th  January,  1851,  to  the  IGth, 
was  the  coldest  period  on  board  the  Investigator  —  the 
thermometer  showing  40°  to  50°  below  zero. 

Early  one  dark  and  icy  morning  in  January,  a  man 
named  John  Eames  was  walking  out  upon  the  floe, 
when  he  saw  a  small  Ik  -  1  of  reindeer  trot  by.  "  It  is 
pretty  evident,"  says  M'Clure,  "that,  during  che  whole 
winter,  animals  may  be  found  in  those  straits,  and  that 
the  want  of  sufficient  light  alone  prevents  our  larder 
being  stored  with  fresh  food."  "  Subsequent  observa- 
tion," says  Commander  Osborne,  "  has  completely  over- 
thrown the  idea  that  the  reindeer,  musk-ox,  or  other 
animals  inhabiting  the  archipelago  of  islands  north  of 
America,  migrate  southward  to  avoid  an  Arctic  winter. 
Throughout  Banks's  Land,  Melville  Island,  Bathurst, 
and  Cornwallis  Land,  there  have  been  found  indubitable 
proofs  of  the  reindeer,  bear,  musk-ox,  marmot,  wolf, 
hare,  and  ptarmigan,  —  in  short,  all  the  Fauna  of  these 
climes,  —  wintering  in  the  latitudes  in  which  they 
are  found  during  the  summer."  A  raven,  which  had 
haunted  the  ship  during  the  period  of  cold  and  dark- 
ness, left  it  before  the  sun  reappeared,  and  his  departure 
was  sensibly  felt  by  every  one  on  board. 

Early  in  March,  1851,  a  whale-boat  was  carried  on 
sledges,  with  much  labor,  to  the  Princess  Royal  Island, 
and  a  depot  established  of  three  months'  victualling  for 
the  entire  crew.  In  April  three  sledges  were  laden 
with  provisions  for  six  weeks,  and,  with  six  men  to  each 
sledge,  were  sent  on  different  courses.     One  sledge. 


ii 


n 


870 


M'CLURE'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


comniamlcd  by  Lieut.  Ilaswoll,  was  directed  to  proceed 
to  the  south-east,  ibHowing'  the  coast  of  Frinco  Allx.'rt's 
Land,  toward  the  land  seen  north  of  Dolphin  and  Union 
Strait,  and  named  by  its  discoverer  Wollaston  Land  ; 
another  sledge,  under  Lieut.  Cresswell,  was  to  follow  the 
coast  of  Banks's  Land  to  the  north-west ;  whilst  the 
remaining'  party,  with  j\[r.  Wynniatt,  was  charged  with 
the  duty  of  examining  the  coast  of  Albert  Land  to  the 
north-east,  toward  Cape  Walker.  On  the  18th  April  the 
several  parties,  with  their  sledges,  left  the  ship  to  search 
for  traces  of  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his  men. 

They  returned,  after  intervals  of  from  three  to  seven 
weeks,  but  without  having  found  any  traces  of  the  miss- 
ing navigators,  or  gained  any  contributions  of  moment 
for  geographical  science.  The  most  important  incident 
seems  to  have  been  Lieut.  IlaswelFs  encounter  with 
some  Esquimaux,  who  said  they  had  never  before  cast 
eyes  on  a  white  man.  Copper  of  the  purest  descrip- 
tion seemed  to  be  plentiful  with  them,  for  all  their  im- 
plements were  of  that  metal ;  their  arrows  were  tipped 
with  it,  and  some  of  the  sailors  saw  a  quantity  of  it  in 
a  rough  state  in  one  of  the  tents.  ri'Clure  afterwards 
had  some  friendly  interviews  with  these  people,  in 
whoso  lecaying  prospects  he  became  quite  interested. 

Ab  cpring  advanced,  signs  of  a  change  began  to  mul- 
tiply. First  came  a  seal  at  the  hole  in  the  floe  kept 
open  near  the  ship  in  case  of  fire  ;  then  a  large  polar 
bear ;  and,  lastly,  hares  and  ptarmigan.  Among  the 
startling  narratives  of  Arctic  escapes,  few  exceed  that 
of  Whitfield,  one  of  the  hunters,  who  lost  his  way  in  a 
snow-drift,  and  was  found  within  a  yard  of  4,he  tent, 
stifl  and  rigid  as  a  corpse,  his  head  thrown  back,  his 
eyes  fixed,  his  mouth  open  and  filled  with  snow,  his 
gun  slung  over  his  shoulder,  and  his  body  being  fast 
buried  in  a  snow-wreath.      When  happily  brought  to 


DISCOVERY  OF  THE  NORTH-WEST  PlsSAGE.       371 


proceed 
\ll)(n-l'H 
lI  Union 
I  Lund  ; 
How  the 
lilst  ll>o 
red  with 
id  to  the 
\pnl  the 
to  search 

to  seven 
the  miss- 
[  moment 
t  incident 
nter  with 
efore  cast 
it  descrip- 
their  im- 
!re  tipped 
y  of  it  in 
Xterwards 
leople,   in 
;erestod. 
in  to  mul- 
floe  kept 
irge  polar 
ong  the 
Iceed  that 
way  in  a 
the  tent, 
back,  his 
mow,  his 
\)emg  fast 
^'ought  to 


lilrnsolf,  he  i  latcd  lliat  wliilst  Ktniggling  witli  the  snow- 
storni  lie  Iblt  a  fliill,  and  then  a  lit  came  on,  during 
wliicii  li(!  iniagincd  people  came  close  to  iiim  ;  \w  had 
j)artially  recovered,  and,  discovering  a  track,  liad  nearly 
reached  the  tent-door,  when  he  was  overtaken  by 
another  lit,  and  had  sunk  down,  a  yard  from  the  tenl- 
door,  in  the  attitude  of  snpi)li(:ation  in  which  he  was 
found.  Had  not  one  of  the  hunters  looked  out  of  the 
door  by  chance,  he  must  have  been  frozen  to  death  in 
that  position,  within  a  yard  of  a  place  of  refuge  ! 

Tlnn-o  was  great  joy  on  board  the  Investigator  from 
the  lOtii  to  the  14th  of  July,  1851.  Tiie  floe  had  com- 
menced breaking  up,  and  on  the  17th  the  good  ship  cast 
off,  —  only,  however,  to  be  caught  in  the  pack-ice,  and 
once  more  drifted  with  the  crushing  floes  against  the 
cliffs  of  Princess  Itoyal  Island.  Finally  she  drifted  to 
the  tantalizing  distance  of  twentj'-five  miles  from  the 
waters  of  Barrow's  Strait.  Further  than  that,  no  effort 
could  advance  the  ship  ;  the  young  ice  at  nights  had 
already  begun  to  form  again,  the  sun  once  more  set  at 
night,  the  pack-ice  closed  up  the  exit,  and  M'Clure  was 
obliged  to  give  the  passage  up  as  a  hopeless  thing,  and 
to  retrace  his  stops,  in  order  that,  by  going  round  by  the 
south  of  Banks's  Land,  he  might  try  and  reach  Melville 
Island  frci  that  direction. 

It  was  a  truly  grievous  position  to  be  placed  in,  to  bo 
within  some  thirty  miles  of  a  clear  .  ^a,  which,  had  they 
once  been  able  to  pass  into,  they  could  have  reached 
England  the  same  summer,  —  and  to  have  to  turn  back 
with  the  prospect  of  another  winter  in  tlio  polar  regions. 
But  the  ice  was  as  inexorable  as  if  the  Isthmus  of  Pan- 
ama had  stood  between  them  and  the  Atlantic  ;  and  there 
was  no  help  for  it.  At  first  matters  went  on  well,  in 
their  southerly  progress  ;  not  a  particle  of  ice  was  met 
wuth.  Floes,  hummocks,  and  the  huge  piles  of  ice  that 
fringed  the  coast,  had  alike  disappeared. 


m 


372 


M'CLUUE'8  EXPLORATIONS. 


»!i|   'i 


On  the  24th  of  July  tlioy  had  nearly  reached  Toiiit 
Armstrong,  upon  which  the  ice  was  resting.  Hero  their 
courHc  was  checked.  ThciO  was  much  drift-wood  on 
the  beach,  of  large  dimensions,  mostly  American  pine. 
The  cutter  was  consequently  despatched  for  a  load,  and 
some  of  the  pieces  appeared  so  fresh  that  the  carpenter 
was  of  opinion  that  two  years  was  the  extreme  of  their 
quitting  the  forest.  "The  wind,  veering  to  the  west- 
ward during  the  night,"  says  M'Clure,  "set  large 
bodies  of  ice  into  the  water  we  occupied,  which  was 
rapidly  fdling.  To  prevent  being  forced  on  shore,  we 
were  obliged,  at  eight  a.  m.  of  the  25th,  to  run  into  the 
pack,  where  we  drifted,  according  to  the  tide,  about  a 
mile  and  a  half  from  the  beach  ;  but,  during  the  twenty- 
four  hours,  made  about  two  miles  and  a  half  to  the 
north-east,  from  which,  when  taken  with  the  quantity 
of  drift-wood  that  is  thickly  strewed  along  the  beach,  I 
am  of  opinion  that  on  this  side  of  the  strait  there  is  a 
slight  current  to  the  north-east,  while  upon  the  opposite 
one  it  sets  to  the  southward,  upon  which  there  is 
scarcely  any  wood,  ;ind  our  progress,  while  similarly 
situated,  was  in  a  southern  direction.  We  continued 
drifting  in  the  pack,  without  meeting  any  obstruction, 
until  ten  a.  li.  of  the  1st  of  August,  when  a  sudden  and 
most  unexpected  motion  of  the  ice  swept  us  with  much 
velocity  to  the  north-east,  toward  a  low  point,  off  which 
were  several  shoals,  having  many  heavy  pieces  of 
grounded  ice  upon  them,  toward  which  we  were  directly 
setting,  decreasing  the  soundings  from  twenty-four  to 
nine  and  a  half  fathoms.  Destruction  was  apparently 
not  far  distant,  when,  most  opportunely,  the  ice  eased 
a  little,  and,  a  fresh  wind  coming  from  the  land,  sail  was 
immediately  made,  which,  assisted  by  warps,  enabled 
the  ship  to  be  forced  ahead  about  two  hundred  yards, 
which  shot  us  clear  of  the  ice  and  the  poiut  into  sixteeu 


Toiiit 
i  tliuir 
od  oil 

piuo. 
kd,  and 
peutei* 
f  their 
3  weatr 

large 
ch  was 
ore,  wo 
into  tho 
about  a 
tweuty- 
;  to  the 
][uantity 
beach,  I 
ere  is  a 


DISCOVERY  OF  THE  NORTH-WEST  PASSAGE.       873 

and  a  half  iathoriiH,  in  which  water  wo  rounded  tho 
nhoals  ;  th«;  ice  thou  uf^'ain  closed,  and  tiio  HJiip  b(!Ciuno 
fixed  until  the  1  Itli  of*  August,  when  the  foj?,  which 
Hinee  the  previous  day  had  b(!en  very  dense,  ch'ared, 
and  di8cK)8ed  open  water  about  half  a  mile  from  tho 
vessel,  with  the  ice  loose  about  her." 

Tho  dilHculty  of  clearing  away  large  masses  of  ice 
was,  to  some  ext(Mit,  obviated  by  blasting.  "  Previously 
to  quitting  the  floe,"  says  M'Clure,  "  I  was  desirous  of 
trying  what  eflect  blasting  would  have  upon  such  a 
mass.  A  jar  containing  thirty-six  pounds  of  powder 
was  let  down  twelve  feet  into  the  water  near  the  cen- 
tre ;  the  average  thickness  was  eleven  feet,  and  its 
diameter  four  hundred  yards.  The  result  was  most  sat- 
isfactory, rending  it  in  every  direction,  so  that  with  ease 
we  could  effect  a  passage  through  any  part  of  it." 

Cape  Kellett  was  rounded  with  some  little  difliculty, 
the  ship  passing  between  the  edge  of  grounded  ice  and 
the  coast.  The  land  was  now  so  low  that  the  hand 
lead-line  became  for  a  while  their  best  guide  ;  the  sound- 
ings happily  were  regular,  and,  aided  by  it  and  a  fair 
wind,  they  advanced  apace  to  the  northward.  Through- 
out the  19th  of  August,  1851,  the  ship  sometimes  ran 
as  much  as  seven  knots  per  hour,  the  width  of  the  lane 
of  water  in  which  they  were  sailing  varying  from  three 
to  five  miles.  Noon  that  day  found  them  in  73**  55' 
north  latitude,  and  123**  52'  30"  west  longitude ;  and 
already  did  M'Clure  count  upon  extending  his  voyage 
to  the  north  of  Melville  Island,  and  then  striking  for 
some  strait  or  sound  leading  into  Baffin's  Bay. 

That  night,  however,  a  sudden  and  remarkable  change 
took  place.  They  had  just  crossed  Burnet  Bay,  within 
Norway  and  Robilliard  Island,  when  the  coast  suddenly 
became  as  abrupt  and  precipitous  as  a  wall ;  the  v/ater 
w.as  very  deep,  —  sixty  fathoms  by  the  lead-line  withiu 
32 


■Ii 


371 


M'CLURE'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


four  hundred  yards  of  the  face  of  the  cliffs,  and  fifteen 
fathoms  water  when  actually  touching  them.  The  lano 
of  water  had  diminished  to  two  hundred  yards  in  width 
where  broadest ;  and  even  that  space  was  much  ham- 
pered by  loose  pieces  of  ice  aground  or  adrift.  In  some 
places  the  channel  was  so  narrow  that  the  quarter-boats 
had  to  be  topped  up  to  prevent  their  touching  the  clifls 
upon  the  one  hand,  or  the  lofty  ice  upon  the  other  ;  and 
so  perfectly  were  they  running  the  gauntlet,  that  on 
many  occasions  the  ship  could  not  "  round  to,"  for  want 
of  space.  ' 

Their  position  was  full  of  peril ;  yet  they  could  but 
push  on,  for  retreat  was  now  as  dangerous  as  progress. 
The  pack  was  of  the  same  fearful  description  as  one 
they  had  fallen  in  with  in  the  offing  of  the  Mackenzie 
lliver,  during  the  previous  autumn ;  it  drew  forty  and 
fifty  feet  of  water,  and  rose  in  rolling  hills  upon  the 
surface,  some  of  them  a  hundred  feet  from  base  to  sum- 
mit. Any  attempt  to  force  the  frail  ship  against  such 
ice  was  of  course  mere  folly ;  all  they  could  do  was  to 
watch  for  every  opening,  trust  in  the  mercy  of  God, 
and  push  ahead  in  the  execution  of  their  duty.  If  the 
ice  at  such  a  time  had  set  in  with  its  vast  force  against 
the  sheer  cliff,  nothing,  they  all  felt,  could  have  saved 
them. 

Enough  has  been  said  to  give  a  correct  idea  of  the 
peril  incurred  at  this  stage  of  the  voyage,  without  en- 
tering into  minute  details  of  the  hair-breadth  escapes 
hourly  taking  place  ;  but  one  instance  may  be  given  as 
a  sample  of  the  rest.  After  the  20th  of  August  the  In- 
vestigator lay  helplessly  fixed  off  the  north-west  of 
Banks's  Land  ;  the  wind  had  pressed  in  the  ice,  and  for 
a  while  all  hopes  of  further  progress  were  at  an  end. 
On  the  29th  of  August,  however,  a  sudden  move  took 
place,  and  a  moving  floe  struck  a  huge  mass  to  which 


DISCOVERY   OF  THE  NORTH-WEST  PASSAGE.       875 


i  fifteen 
the  laiio 
n  width 
ch  ham- 
In  some 
tcr-hoats 
Aid  clifl's 
ler;  and 
,  that  on 
for  want 

;ould  but 
progress. 
)n  as  one 
lackenzio 
forty  and 
upon  the 
se  to  sum- 
linst  such 
lo  was  to 
f  of  God, 
If  the 
against 


xve 


:aved 


lea  of  the 
ithout  cn- 
li  escapes 

given  as 
st  the  In- 
i-west  of 
te,  and  for 
[t  an  end. 
10 ve  took 

to  which 


llic  ship  had  been  secured,  and,  to  the  horror  of  those 
on  board,  such  was  the  enormous  power  exerted  that 
the  mass  slowly  reared  itself  on  its  edge  close  to  the 
ship's  bows,  until  the  upper  part  was  higher  than  the 
fore-yard  ;  and  every  moment  appeared  likely  to  be  the 
Investigator's  last,  for  the  ice  had  but  to  topple  over  to 
sink  her  and  her  crew  under  its  weight.  At  the  criti- 
cal moment  there  was  a  shout  of  joy ;  for  the  mass, 
after  oscillating  fearfully,  broke  up,  rolled  back  in  its 
original  position,  and  they  were  saved. 

Hardly,  however,  was  this  danger  past  than  a  fresh 
one  threatened  ;  for  the  berg  to  which  the  ship  was  se- 
cured was  impelled  forward  by  the  whole  weight  of  the 
driving  pack  toward  a  low  point  of  land,  on  which  with 
frightful  pressure  the  great  floes  were  breaking  up,  and 
piling  themselves  tier  upon  tier.  The  Investigator  had 
no  power  of  escape  ;  but  every  hawser  was  put  in  re- 
quisition, and  hands  stationed  by  them.  An  attempt 
to  blow  up  a  grounded  berg,  upon  which  the  ship  was 
driving,  only  partially  succeeded  ;  the  nip  came  on,  the 
poor  ship  groaned,  and  every  plank  and  timber  quivered 
from  stem  to  stern,  in  this  trial  of  strength  between  her 
and  the  ice.  "  Our  fate  seemed  sealed,"  says  M'Clure  ; 
and  he  made  up  his  mind  to  let  go  all  hawsers.  The 
order  was  given,  and  with  it  the  wreck  of  the  Investi- 
gator seemed  certain  :  all  the  leader  hoped  for  was  —  to 
use  his  own  words  —  "that  we  might  have  the  ship 
thrown  up  sufficiently  to  serve  as  an  asylum  for  the 
winter."  li  she  should  sink  between  the  two  con- 
tending bergs,  the  destruction  of  every  soul  was  inev- 
itable. 

But,  at  the  very  moment  when  the  order  to  "  let  go 
all  hawsers  "  was  given,  and  even  before  it  could  be 
obeyed,  a  merciful  Providenoe  caused  the  berg,  which 
most  threatened,  to  break  up,  and  the  Investigator. was 


316 


M'CLURE'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


once  more  saved  ;  though  still  so  tightly  was  she  beset, 
that  there  was  not  room  to  drop  a  lead-line  down  round 
the  vessel,  and  the  copper  upon  her  bottom  was  hang- 
ing in  shreds,  or  rolled  up  like  brown  paper.  By  mid- 
night the  ice  was  stationary,  and  everything  quiet. 

They  were  now  upon  the  north-west  extreme  of 
Banks's  Land,  and  here  officers  and  men  rambled  into 
the  interior,  which  they  did  not  find  so  sterile  as  the 
view  from  the  sea  had  led  them  to  expect.  Traces  of 
musk-oxen  and  deer  abounded,  and  both  were  seen  ; 
but  perhaps  the  mast  extraordinary  discovery  of  all  was 
a  great  accumulation  of  fossil  trees,  as  well  as  frag- 
ments not  fossilized,  lying  over  the  whole  extent  of  the 
land,  from  an  elevation  of  three  hundred  feet  above  the 
sea  to  its  immediate  level.  Writing  on  the  21th  of 
August,  M'Clure  says  :  "  I  walked  to-day  a  short  dis- 
tance into  the  interior  ;  the  snow  that  had  fallen  last 
night  lay  unthawed  upon  the  high  grounds,  rendering 
the  prospect  most  cheerless.  The  hills  are  very  remark- 
able, many  of  them  peaked,  and  standing  isolated  from 
each  other  by  precipitous  gorges.  The  summits  of  these 
hills  are  about  three  hundred  feet  high,  and  nothing  can 
be  more  wildly  picturesque  than  the  gorges  which  lie 
between  them.  From  the  summit  of  these  singularly- 
formed  hills  to  their  base,  abundance  of  wood  is  to  be 
found ;  and  in  manj  places  layers  of  trees  are  visible, 
some  protruding  tv/elve  or  fourteen  feet,  and  so  firm 
that  several  people  may  jump  on  them  without  their 
breaking  :  the  largest  trunk  yet  found  measured  one 
foot  seven  inches  in  diameter." 

Again,  on  September  5th,  some  miles  from  the  hills 
just  alluded  to,  M'Clure  says  :  "  I  entered  a  ravine  some 
miles  inland,  and  found  the  north  side  of  it,  for  a 
depth  of  forty  feet  from  the  surface,  composed  of  one 
mass  of  wood  similar  to  what  I  had  before  seen.     The 


WINTER  IN  THE  BAY  OF  MERCY. 


377 


beset, 
round 
haug- 
y  mid- 
it. 

me   of 
}d  into 
I  as  the 
aces  of 
I  seen  ; 
all  was 
iS  frag- 
t  of  the 
(ove  the 
2nh  of 
lort  dis- 
len  last 
mdering 
remark- 
ed from 
lof  these 
ling  can 
[hich  lie 
gularly-  ^ 
lis  to  be 
visible, 
I  so  firm 
it  their 
red  one 

|he  hills 

le  some 

for  a 

of  one 

11.    The 


wliole  depth  of  the  ravine  was  about  two  hundred  feet. 
The  ground  around  the  wood  or  trees  was  formed  of 
sand  and  shingle  ;  some  of  the  woci  was  petrified,  the 
remainder  very  rotten,  and  worthless  even  for  burning." 

At  a  subsequent  period,  Lieutenant  Mecham  met 
with  a  similar  kind  of  fossil  forest  in  Prince  Patrick 
Island,  nearly  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  further 
north. 

This  phenomenon  gives  rise  to  speculation  as  to  some 
period  in  the  world's  history  when  the  absence  of  ice 
and  a  milder  climate  allowed  forest-trees  to  grow  in  a 
region  where  now  the  ground  willow  and  dwarf  birch 
have  to  struggle  for  existence.  ' 

On  the  1st  of  September,  1851,  winter  appeared  to 
have  overtaken  the  Investigator  in  her  forlorn  position  ; 
but  on  the  18th  the  wind  veered,  and  the  ice  went  off 
from  the  coast,  carrying  the  ship  with  it,  drifting  her  to 
the  northward.  On  the  19th,  having  got  free  of  the  ice 
which  clung  to  her  sides,  the  ship  got  int  i  a  lane  of 
water  stretching  eastward ;  and,  on  the  22d,  rounding 
Cape  Austin,  fairly  entered  into  Melville  Strait.  At 
length,  on  the  24th,  they  found  themselves  in  a  largo 
bay  at  the  western  extremity  of  Banks's  Land,  and, 
seeing  that  it  was  impossible  to  round  its  north-eastern 
horn,  M'Clure  made  up  his  mind  to  winter  where  he 
was  ;  and,  in  token  of  his  gratitude  for  his  many  provi- 
dential escapes,  he  appropriately  called  the  place  "The 
Bay  of  Mercy."     That  night  they  were  firmly  frozen  in. 

It  was  now  certain  that  they  would  have  to  spend 
another  winter  in  the  ice.  With  slight  exceptions,  the 
arrangements  made  were  much  the  same  as  those  of  the 
previous  winter.  The  allowance  of  food  was  reduced, 
to  meet  the  contingency  of  an  escape  from  the  ice  not 
being  efiected  the  following  year  ;  but  this  inconvenience 
was,  to  some  extent,  obviated  by  its  being  discovered 

32* 


\\ 


J**** 


878 


M'CLURE'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


that  the  land  teemed  with  deer  and  hares.  "As  there 
appeared  much  game  in  the  vicinity,"  writes  Captain 
M'Clure,  "  and  the  weatlier  continued  mild,  shooting' 
parties  were  estahlislied  in  diflbrent  directions  between 
the  9th  and  23d  of  October  ;  so  that,  with  what  was 
killed  from  the  ship,  our  supply  of  fresh  provisions  at 
the  commencement  of  the  winter  consisted  of  nine  deer, 
fifty-three  hares,  and  forty-ibur  ptarmigan,  all  in  fine 
condition,  the  former  having  from  two  to  three  inches 
of  fat." 

The  herds  of  deer  and  troops  of  hares  that  congregated 
on  the  broad  plains  of  dwarf  willow,  reindeer-moss,  and 
coarse  grasses  in  the  interior,  are  described  as  perfectly 
marvellous.  Wolves  and  foxes  also  abounded,  and,  as 
cold  and  darkness  increased,  the  former,  pressed  by 
hunger,  used  to  haunt  the  ship  to  a  disagreeable  extent ; 
and  the  sad  prolonged  howl  of  these  gaunt  creatures  in 
the  long  nights  added,  if  possible,  to  the  dismal  char- 
acter of  the  scene.  Two  ravens  also  established  them- 
selves as  friends  of  the  family  in  Mercy  Bay,  and  used 
to  trick  the  ship's  dog  out  of  his  meals  by  enticing  him 
away,  flying  a  few  j^ards  at  a  time,  he  running  at  them 
till  they  had  got  him  some  distance  away,  when  they 
would  make  a  direct  flight  back,  and  have  done  good 
execution  before  the  mortified  dog  detected  the  imposi- 
tion practised  upon  him,  and  rushed  back  again. 

"  In  consequence  of  our  favored  position,"  says 
M'Clure,  "the  crew  were  enabled  to  ramble  over  the 
hills  almost  daily  in  quest  of  game,  and  their  exertions 
happily  supplied  a  fresh  meal  of  venison  three  times  a 
fortnight,  with  the  exception  of  about  three  weeks  in 
January,  when  it  was  too  dark  for  shooting.  The  small 
game,  such  as  ptarmigan  and  hares,  being  scarce,  were 
allowed  to  be  retained  by  the  sportsmen  as  private 
property.     This  healthy  and  exhilarating  exercise  kept 


Is  there 
Captain 
iliootiiig 
between 
hat  was 
isions  at 
ne  deer, 
.  in  fine 
e  inches 

Tiegated 
loss,  and 
perfectly 
,  and,  as 
essed  by 
3  extent ; 
latures  in 
nal  char- 
led  them- 
and  used 
icing  him 
at  them 
[len  they 
>ne  good 
|e  imposi- 

/'   says 

lover  the 

exertions 

times  a 

reeks  in 

'he  small 

fee,  were 

private 

)ise  kept 


HUNTING  PARTIES. 


879 


ns  all  well  and  in  excLiient  spirits  during  another 
tedious  winter,  so  that  on  the  1st  of  April  we  had 
upwards  of  a  thousand  pounds  of  venison  hanging  at 
the  yard-arms." 

Musk-oxen  were  very  numerous.  They  were  found 
to  be  very  ferocious,  and  great  danger  sometimes 
attended  the  attacks.  They  were  easily  approached, 
but  when  wounded  they  ran  headlong  at  their  assailant. 
On  one. occasion,  Sergeant  Woon,  of  the  marines,  while 
in  pursuit  of  a  wounded  deer,  unexpectedly  met  a 
couple  of  musk-bulls,  which  he  succeeded  in  wounding. 
Having  expended  his  shot,  as  one  of  the  wounded  and 
infuriated  monsters  rushed  towards  him,  he  fired  his 
"  worm  "  when  at  a  few  yards,  but  without  much  effect. 
The  animal  continued  his  advances,  evidently,  however, 
weak  from  loss  of  blood,  till  he  had  reached  within  six 
feet,  when  he  put  his  head  to  the  ground,  as  if  for  a 
final  rush.  As  his  last  resource,  the  sergeant  fired  his 
iron  ramrod,  which,  entering  behind  the  animal's  left 
shoulder,  passed  through  the  heart  and  out  at  the  right 
flank,  dropping  him  lifeless.  -     ; 

December  found  the  crew  of  the  Investigator  passing 
their  time  cheerfully  in  their  far-distant  home  in  Mercy 
Bay.  The  month  came  in  with  a  succession  of  those 
tremendous  snow-storms,  which  are,  perhaps,  the  most 
frightful  visitations  of  the  polar  regions.  But,  after  the 
new  year  (1852)  began,  the  weather  was  fine,  with  a 
keen  and  steady  cold  of  from  seventy  to  eighty  degrees 
below  the  freezing-point  of  water  —  a  temperature  which 
severely  tests  the  vital  energies  of  man.  Yet,  what 
with  cheerfulness,  exercise,  and  regular  habits,  the  crew 
were  in  good  health. 

One  of  the  hunting  parties  had  well-nigh  proved  fatal 
to  a  colored  man  serving  on  board  the  ship.  He  had 
wounded  a  deer,  and  chased  it  till  a  fog  came  on,  and 


i 


380 


M'CLURE'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


he  lost  his  way.  It  was  in  January,  and  the  weather 
was  bitterly  cold ;  the  poor  fellow  began  to  fancy  him- 
self frozen  to  death,  and  lost  his  wits  entirely.  While 
in  this  state,  Sergeant  Woou  met  him,  and  offered  to 
lead  him  to  the  ship.  The  negro,  beside  himself  with 
terror,  could  not  be  made  to  understand  anything,  and 
stood  crying  and  shuddering  till  he  fell  down  in  a  fit. 
The  sergeant  waited  till  he  was  restored,  and  then 
either  carried  him  on  his  back  or  rolled  him  down  hills 
and  hummocks  for  ten  long  hours,  till  he  got  him  within 
a  mile  of  the  ship.  But  the  sergeant  was  by  this  time 
exhausted.  He  exerted  all  his  powers  of  eloquence 
upon  the  negro  to  induce  him  to  walk.  The  poor  creat- 
ure only  begged  to  be  "  let  alone  to  die."  Finding  all 
his  arguments  unavailing,  the  sergeant  laid  him  in  a 
bed  of  deep  snow,  and,  with  all  his  remaining  strength, 
ran  alone  to  the  ship.  lie  procured  assistance  directly, 
and,  returning  to  the  place  where  he  had  left  the  negro, 
found  him  with  his  arms  stiff  and  raised  abo'^e  his  head, 
his  eyes  open,  and  his  mouth  so  firmly  frozen  that  it 
required  great  force  to  open  it  to  pour  down  restora- 
tives. He  was  alive,  however,  and  eventually  recov- 
ered, though  his  hands,  feet,  and  face,  were  much  frost- 
bitten. This  case,  and  a  similar  one  already  related, 
illustrate,  in  a  striking  manner,  not  only  the  effect  of 
intense  cold  on  the  body  and  mind,  but  also  how  much 
the  safety  of  the  former  depends  on  the  exercise  of  the 
latter.  -'■.', a,-.' r.  ■  .«       >  -    '-■  ■ 

On  the  5th  of  February  the  sun  was  seen  above  the 
horizon,  and  the  sportsmen  became  more  successful, 
scarcely  a  day  passing  without  a  deer  or  har*^  being 
shot ;  and  keen  must  have  been  the  hunger  of  those 
sportsmen,  for  more  than  one  of  them,  when,  after  a 
long  and  weary  walk,  he  shot  a  deer  or  hare,  refreshed 
himself  with  a  draught  of  the  animal's  hot  blood,  or  by 


A  THIRD  WINTER  APPROACHING. 


381 


B  weather 
tincy  hira- 
^  While 
offered  to 
mself  with 
thing,  and 
n  in  a  fit. 

and  then 
down  hills 
him  within 
f  this  time 

eloquence 
poor  creat- 
Finding  all 
d  him  in  a 
g  strength, 
ce  directly, 
i  the  negro, 

e  his  head, 
zen  that  it 

wn  restora- 

ally  recov- 
uch  frost- 

,dy  related, 

|e  effect  of 
how  much 
cise  of  the 

above  the 
|successful, 

lare  being 
|r  of  those 

2n,  after  a 
I,  refreshed 
lood,  or  by 


eating  a  mouthful  or  two  of  the  raw  meat.  The  wolves 
had  also  become  exceedingly  bold,  and  tales  are  told  of 
the  sportsman  pulling  at  one  end  of  a  slain  deer,  and 
the  wolves  at  the  other  1 

On  the  11th  of  April,  1852,  a  sledge  excursion  waa 
made  to  Winter  Harbor,  Melville  Island,  —  the  old 
winter  quarters  of  Sir  Edward  Parry, —  and  notice  found 
of  Lieutenant  M'Clintock's  having  been  there  from  the 
west,  the  previous  summer.  M'Clure  here  deposited  a 
notice  of  his  own  visit,  under  the  same  cairn  that  had 
protected  the  notice  left  by  his  predecessor. 

It  is  remarkable  that,  shortly  after  M'Clure's  visit  to 
this  spot,  a  sledge-party  from  the  Enterprise,  which  had 
wintered  at  the  south  end  of  Prince  of  Wales  Strait, 
after  having  been  up  to  near  its  northern  extremity,  and 
having  been  foiled,  like  the  Investigator,  in  getting  into 
Melville  Strait,  actually  visited  the  same  spot,  without 
either  party  knowing  that  the  other  was  so  close,  so 
great  is  the  difficulty  of  meeting  one  another  in  regions 
like  those  of  the  Arctic  archipelago.  ,       ; 

Although  the  sportsmen  continued  to  meet  with  great 
success,  and  at  one  period  no  less  than  twenty  head  of 
deer  were  hanging  up  round  the  ship,  yielding  a  thou- 
sand pounds  of  meat,  scurvy  began  to  show  itself,  and  to 
make  marked  progress  among  the  crew.  On  the  1st  of 
July  there  were  six  men  in  their  beds,  and  sixteen  had 
evident  symptoms  of  debility,  with  incipient  scurvy. 
On  the  16th  open  water  was  seen  in  the  straits,  but  the 
ice  in  the  bay  prevented  their  getting  to  it,  and  on  the 
24th  the  lead  of  water  had  closed. !  It  became  too  obvi- 
ous that  the  winter  was  again  setting  in.  All  hope  of 
deliverance  for  another  season  was  cut  off  1 

"On  the  20th  of  August,  1852,"  says  M'Clure,  "the 
temperature  fell  to  21°,  when  the  entire  bay  was  com- 
pletely frozen  over;  and,  on  the  2Uh,  the  te*iiperature 


382 


M'CLURE'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


fell  to  19°,  so  that  the  whole  aspect  was  cheerless  in 
the  extreme.  The  young  ice  was  two  and  a  half  inches 
thick,  so  that  the  whole  bay  might  be  safely  perambu- 
lated. Indeed,  the  summer  was  fairly  gone,  for  the 
uplands  were  all  snow-covered,  the  wild-fowl  all  de- 
parted, and  the  flowers,  which  gave  cheerful  variety  to 
this  bleak  land,  were  all  withered.  The  very  season 
might  be  considered  as  one  long,  sunless  day,  as  since 
the  latter  part  of  May  the  great  luminary  had  been 
scarcely  visible,  or  his  influence  scarcely  felt  upon  those 
icy  masses  which  block  Barrow's  Strait  entirely  across  ; 
nor  do  I  imagine  that  the  Polar  Sea  had  broken  up  that 
season,  as  not  a  drop  of  water  had  been  seen  in  that 
direction. 

**  During  July,  and  the  earlj'^  part  of  August,  the 
crew  were  daily  employed  gathering  sorrel,  of  which 
there  was  a  great  quantity  upon  the  hills  in  this  vicinity. 
Eaten  as  a  salad,  with  vinegar,  or  boiled,  when  it 
resembled  spinach,  it  was  found  a  most  admirable  anti- 
scorbutic, and  a  great  benefit  to  all,  being  exceed- 
ingly relished ;  but  this  hardy  and  miserable  herbage 
could  not  withstand  the  rigorous  summer  beyond  the 
15th  of  the  month. 

"  For  several  days  the  ice  had  been  perfectly  station- 
ary, and  no  water  visible  in  any  direction,  that  along 
the  chff's  of  Banks's  Land  being  frozen  ;  so  that  I  felt 
assured  that  the  winter  had  fairly  set  in,  and  all  hopes 
of  any  release  this  year  were  totally  annihilated,  the 
young  ice  being  five  inches  thick.  Having  previously 
determined  what  course  I  should  adopt  under  circum- 
stances thus  unfavorable,  upon  the  8th  of  September  I 
announced  my  intentions  to  the  crew  of  sending  half  of 
them  to  England  next  April,  with  all  the  officers  not  in 
charge  of  stores,  via  Baffin's  Bay  (taking  the  boat  from 
Cape   Spencer)  and  the   Mackenzie,  detaining  the  re- 


GALLANT  RESOLVE 


^83 


rlcss  in 
f  inches 
erambu- 
for  tlio 
all   dc- 
iriety  to 
J  season 
as  since 
lad  been 
ion  those 
y  across ; 
n  up  that      \ 
1  in  that 

gust,  the 
of  which 
s  vicinity. 
,  when  it 
■able  anti- 
exceed- 
herbagc 
lyond  the 

[ly  station- 
lat  along 

bhat  I  felt 
all  hopes 

ilated,  the 
)reviously 

|r  circum- 

Iptember  I 

ig  half  of 

Icrs  not  in 

[boat  from 

Ig  the  re- 


mainder with  the  hope  of  extricating  the  vessel  during 
the  summer  of  1853  ;  or,  failing  thr.t,  to  proceed  with 
sledges  in  1854  by  Port  Leopold,  our  provisions  admit- 
ting of  no  other  arrangement. 

"  Although  we  had  already  been  twelve  months  upon 
two  thirds  allowance,  it  was  necessary  to  make  prepara- 
tions for  meeting  eighteen  months  more ;  a  very  severe 
deprivation  and  constitutional  test,  but  one  which  the 
service  we  were  employed  upon  called  for,  the  vessel 
being  as  sound  as  the  uay  she  entered  the  ice  ;  it  would, 
therefore,  be  discreditable  to  desert  her  in  1853,  when 
a  favorable  season  would  run  her  through  the  straits 
and  admit  of  reaching  England  in  safety,  where  the 
successful  achievement  of  the  long-sought-for  ind  almost 
hopeless  discovery  of  the  north-west  passage  would 
be  received  with  a  satisfaction  that  would  amply  com- 
pensate for  the  sacrifices  made  and  hardships  endured 
in  its  most  trying  and  tedious  accomplishment.  This 
statement  was  well  received,  and  its  execution  will,  I 
hope,  be  carried  out  without  difficulty." 

« It  is  due  to  Captain  M'Clure  to  reproduce  one  passage 
in  the  dispatch  which  he  had  prepared  to  send  home 
with  the  land  parties  he  was  about  to  forward  in  the 
spring  of  1853.         r,^  '  r     '  'f        ^     ^j' 

♦."Should  any  of  her  majesty's  ships  be  sent  for  our 
relief,  and  we  have  quitted  Port  Leopold,  a  notice,  con- 
taining information  of  our  route,  will  be  left  on  the  door 
of  the  house  at  Whalers'  Point,  or  on  some  conspicuous 
position.  If,  however,  no  intimation  should  be  found 
of  our  having  been  there,  it  may  at  once  be  surmised 
tnat  some  fatal  catastrophe  has  happened,  either  from 
our  being  carried  into  the  Polar  Sea,  or  smashed  in  Bar- 
row's Strait,  and  no  survivors  left.  If  such  be  the  case, 
—  which,  however,  I  will  not  anticipate,  —  it  will  then 
be  quite  unnecessary  to  penetrate  further  to  the  west- 


384 


M'CLURE'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


ward  for  our  relief,  as,  by  the  period  that  any  vessel 
could  reach  that  port,  wo  must,  from  want  of  provi- 
sions, all  have  perished.  In  such  a  case,  I  would 
submit  that  the  officers  may  be  directed  to  return,  and 
by  no  moans  incur  the  danger  of  losing  other  lives  in 
quest  of  those  who  will  then  be  no  more.'* 

The  ship  was  banked  up  with  snow  and  he  used  over 
on  the  18th  of  November,  and  every  preparation  made 
for  spending  a  third  winter  in  this  region  of  icy  desola- 
tion. The  spirits  of  the  crew,  however,  did  not  flag. 
Resort  was  again  had  to  the  hunting  expeditions  which 
had  occupied  and  cheered  them  so  much  in  previous 
years,  and  their  larder  was  kept  well  stocked  with  pro- 
visions. The  wolves  so  harassed  the  deer,  that  the 
latter  poor  creatures  actually  fled  to  the  ship  for  pro- 
tection. 

"  The  hares  and  ptarmigan,"  writes  M'Clure,  "have 
descended  from  the  high  ground  to  the  sea  ridges,  so 
that  a  supply  of  game  has  been  kept  up  during  the  win- 
ter, which  has  enabled  a  fresh  meal  to  be  issued  twice 
weekly,  and  the  usual  Christmas  festivities  to  pass  off 
with  the  greatest  cheerfulness.  As  it  was  to  be  our 
last,  the  crew  were  determined  to  make  it  memorable, 
and  their  exertions  were  completely  successful ;  each 
mess  was  gayly  illuminated  and  decorated  with  original 
paintings  by  our  lower-deck  artists,  exhibiting  the  ship 
in  her  perilous  positions  during  the  transit  of  the  Polar 
Sea,  and  divers  other  subjects ;  but  the  grand  features 
of  the  day  were  the  enormous  plum-puddings  (some 
weighing  twenty-six  pounds),  haunches  of  venison, 
hares  roasted,  and  soup  made  of  the  same,  with  ptar- 
migan and  sea  pies.  Such  dainties  in  such  profusion  I 
should  imagine  never  before  graced  a  ship's  lower-deck  ; 
any  stranger,  to  have  witnessed  this  scene,  could  but 
faintly  imagine  that  he  saw  a  crew  which  had  passed 


PLAN   OF   ESCAPE. 


885 


ny  vosBol 
of  provi- 
I   would 
'turn,  and 
r  lives  iu 

used  over 
ktion  made 
icy  desola- 
i  not  flag, 
ions  which 
in  previous     \ 
1  with  pro- 
r,  that  the 
hip  for  pro- 
lure,  "have 
|a  ridges,  so 
ng  the  win- 
Issued  twice 
to  pass  off 
to  be  our 
memorable, 
ssful;  each 
ith  original 
ng  the  ship 
,f  the  Polar 
d  features 
ngs   (some 
f   venison, 
with  ptar- 
iprofusion  I 
ower-deck ; 
,  could  but 
had  passed 


upwards  of  two  years  in  these  dreary  regions,  and 
three  entirely  upon  their  own  resources,  enjoying  niich 
excellent  health  —  so  joyful,  so  happy:  in'eed,  such  a 
mirthful  assemblage,  under  any  circumstances,  would 
be  most  gratifying  to  any  oflBcer ;  but,  in  this  lonely 
situation,  I  could  not  but  feel  deeply  impressed,  as  1 
contemplated  the  gay  and  plenteous  sight,  with  tho 
many  and  great  mercies  which  a  kind  and  beneficout 
I'rovidence  had  extended  toward  us,  to  wliom  alone 
is  due  the  heartfelt  praises  and  thanksgivings  of  all  for 
the  great  blessings  which  we  have  hitherto  experienced 
in  positions  the  most  desolate  which  can  be  con- 
ceived." 

So  another  winter  passed.  The  spring  again  returned, 
and  the  season  rapidly  approached  when  the  crew  was 
to  divide,  and  the  travelling  parties  were  to  set  out  on 
their  long  and  perilous  journeys :  the  one  to  return  home 
by  the  way  of  the  Mackenzie  River  and  Canada  ;  the 
other  to  proceed  to  Cape  Spencer  (where  a  boat  and 
provisions  had  been  deposited),  and  thence  by  Barrow's 
Strait  to  make  their  way  to  the  nearest  inhabited  coast. 
That  these  journeys  would  prove  long  and  dangerous 
in  the  extreme,  could  not  be  doubted  ;  for  the  return 
parties  were  composed  of  the  most  weakly  hands,  thirty 
of  the  healthiest  men  being  retained  to  stand  by  th% 
ship  with  the  captain,  and  brave  the  rigors  of  another 
Arctic  winter.  •    ■     .<  ■•    v  ,  m 

But,  while  M'Clure  and  his  gallant  comrades  were 
thus  about  to  resort  to  their  last  desperate  expedient 
for  communicating  with  the  civilized  world,  relief  was 
at  hand  of  which  they  had  little  expectation.  Provi- 
dential circumstances  interposed  to  do  away  with  the 
necessity  of  committing  their  forlorn  hopes  to  the  snow 
and  ice  deserts  of  the  polar  regions.  These  extraor- 
dinary circumstances  will  be  narrated  in  another  chapter. 
33 


CHAPTER  XVII. 


VOYAGE  or  THE  RESOLUTE  AND  INTHEPin. — ABBIVAL  AT  DEALT  I8LA5D. 
—  8LRDGE-PARTIES.  —  PARUy's  8AND8rC.«,E  AOAIX.  — NEWS  FROM  THE 
INVESTIOATOB.  —  PIM's  JOURNEY. — MEETING  WITH  m'cLURE. —  RETURN 
TO  THE  RESOLUTE. — MORE  DEATHS  REPORTED.  —  ABANDONMENT  OP  THB 
INVESTIGATOR.  —  A  WEARY  SUMMER.  —  t'RESSWELL  SENT  WITH  DIS- 
PATCHES. —  INCIDENTS  IN  THE  VOYAGE  OP  THE  PIICENIX.  —  LOSS  OP  THB 
BREDALBANE  TRANSPORT.  —  DEATH  OF  "ELLOT.  —  HIS  AMIABLE  CHAR- 
ACTER.—  THB   PHIENIX   AND   TALUOT   SENT   OUT. 

A  parentV;  policitude  for  his  son  saved  the  crew  of 
the  Invcsti.^ator.  We  must  now  again  take  up  the  story 
of  Sir  Edward  Belcher's  expedition,  which  we  left  at 
Beechey  Island  on  the  15tli  of  August,'  1852,  just  sep- 
arating into  two  divisions,  —  one  to  proceed  north,  the 
other  west.  It  is  the  westward  division  with  which  we 
have  now  to  do.  It  was  suggested  to  the  British  Ad- 
miralty by  Mr.  Cresswell,  who  had  a  son  with  M'Clure, 
that  that  part  of  Belcher's  expedition  which  was  des- 
tined for  Wellington  Channel  should  be  directed  upon 
iMelville  Island,  as  it  was  the  opinion  of  General  Sabine 
and  Captain  Kellett  that  if  Captains  Collinson  and 
M'Clure  were  unable  to  reach  that  island  with  their 
ships,  still  they  would  push  in  there  with  their  sledges. 
The  senior  lord  of  the  Admiralty  saw  the  soundness  of 
Mr.  Cresswell's  views  ;  and  the  Resolute  and  Intrepid, 
under  Captains  Kellett  and  M'Clintock,  were  ordered  to 
proceed  to  Melville  Island.         . 

In  nearing  Assistance  Bay,  only  thirty  miles  from 
Beechey  Island,  at  which  point  Captain  KelJott  was  to 
leave  a  depot,  the  Resolute  grounded,  was  left  with  but 


SLEDGE-PARTIES.  qo_ 

seven  ibet  of  wafftr  ih^^ 

there  as  1,0  proceeded  fa  T;t'';7'"^  f"'""'  ''"^«  »"<' 
I'acI  reached  Melville  Ishnd  '  "'"•  "''  "'"  «"""""' 

t--ncd  by  Parry  ,-,.   Z;^""'  ^';-»tor„m„at  p,„-„t  at- 

party  which  had  been  he  e  s  ";:""■"'"'«'  f'e  o„|y 
°ver  with  sledges  fro,„  a°  ."'"'  ""'^'  '""■"'ff  «"™e 
the  reader  will  mer"  ''''"''"'"■  "'  1«51,  as 

"'en  Capt.  Kellett  a  ,d  ,.      „  ^  "'"'^'^.l-'e-'s  ;  and 
began  to  prepare  for  the  ll?.  .    '  '""'  S'-ea'  spirit, 

•  the  next  spri::g.  offi!!:;: ;  i\--'"-".'  p-«- «; 

proposed  lines  of  search  -n!^  ^  assigned  to  the 

"earehes  as  much  asTossibl     ;".  ?'"  *°  ^«-'^  the 
for  the  work  when  it  sho  Id  1  ,  '"'''"''  "'«  ">en 

-nt  forward  to  make  Idvald  d^f '•'^"''•"""  ""'« 
under  the  charge  of  thel27  ""1''  '"  "■«  ^"t"n.n, 
n»e  them  in  the  spring    ^    """'"  ^'"'  ^""Id  have  to 

One  of  these  parties  — the  "C!n,m  ,• 
Wand"  party -was  „nde    a  s2t  .  "'  "' ^^'"■"'-' 
Mr.  Mecham,  who  had  seen  »      ?      "'^  ^"""^  °«eer, 
tion.     He  had  two  si  dgos    he  d"''  ""  ""^  ''^'  ^^P^""' 
'f «.  a  depot  of  twenty  davl'l?''-"'''^  """  *'"'  ^«'»'- 
the  spring,  and  enough  toT  twenr?"  '"  "^  "^"^  '" 
»»«•     All  the  Bledges  had  !««!«''     '  ''''^^'  P"'''"* 
f  nng  lady  friends   of  st  e  !    7%"''"  "^  ^°">e 
Mecham's  bore  an  armed  hafd.    ^'^'"'''''-      ^r. 
ground,  with  the  mot^   .  p"     ""'^  '''"''  <"■  ^  ^hite 
ffWm."    Over  mud  laml   «       ""'''"'  ^'"'  '«•'•«'»,  P«r 
their  burden  ;  and  wei-e  L;.  "7'  T'  T'  *^^  "-'^e^ 
of  October,  1852   Mr    lu   t  ^     *'  ''''"■"■  °n  the  I2th 
52,  Mr.  Mecham  visited  "Parry's  Sand! 


388 


A  DISCOVERT. 


um* 


"I'l 

li'l  , 


lir 


I 


stone,"  near  Winter  Harbor,  where  he  had  been  bidden 
to  leave  a  record.  He  went  on  in  advance  of  his  party, 
meaning  to  cut  the  date,  1852,  on  the  stone.  On  top 
of  it  was  a  small  cairn,  built  by  M'Clintock  the  year 
before.  Mecham  examined  this,  and,  to  his  surprise,  a 
copper  cylinder  rolled  out.  "  On  opening  it,"  he  says, 
"  I  drew  out  a  roll  folded  in  a  bladder,  which,  being 
frozen,  broke  and  crumbled.  From  its  dilapidated  ap- 
pearance, I  thought,  at  the  moment,  it  must  be  some 
record  of  Sir  Edward  Parry ;  and,  fearing  I  might  damage 
it,  laid  i;  down  with  the  intention  of  lighting  the  fire  to 
thaw  it.  My  curiosity,  however,  overcame  my  pru- 
dence, and,  on  opening  it  carefully  with  my  knife,  I  came 
to  a  roll  of  cartridge-paper  with  the  impression  fresh 
upon  the  seals.  My  astonishment  may  be  conceived  on 
finding  it  contained  an  account  of  the  proceedings  of. 
her  majesty's  ship  Investigator  since  parting  company 
with  the  Herald  (Capt.  Kellett's  old  ship),  in  August, 
1850,  in  Behring's  Strait ;  also  a  chart  which  disclosed 
to  view  not  only  the  long-sought  north-west  passage,  but 
the  completion  of  the  survey  of  Banks's  and  Wollaston 
Lands.  I  opened  and  endorsed  Commander  M'Clintock's 
dispatch,  and  found  it  contained  the  following  additions  : 


'  Opened  and  copied  by  his  old  friend  and  messmate,  upon  this  date, 
April  28,  1852.  Robekt  M'Clubb. 

*  Party  all  well,  and  return  to  Investigator  to-day.' "        -^  *    •     ,  Jav 


1    ■■'. 


I 


,'        1 


A  great  discovery,  indeed,  to  flash  across  one  in  a 
minute  1  The  Investigator  had  not  been  heard  from  for 
more  than  two  years.  Here  was  news  of  her  not  yet 
six  months  old  I  The  north-west  passage  had  been 
dreamed  of  for  three  centuries  and  more.  Here  was 
news  of  its  discovery,  —  news  that  had  been  known  to 
M'Clure  for  two  years  1     M'Clure  and  M'Clintock  were 


A  FORLORN  HOPE. 


389 


been  bidden 
Df  his  party, 
me.     On  top 
ck  the  year 
is  surprise,  a 
it,"  he  says, 
which,  being 
lapidated  ap- 
lust  be  some 
night  damage 
ing  the  fire  to 
ame  my  pru- 
Y  knife,  I  came 
pression  fresh 
e  conceived  on 
jroceedings  of. 
rtlng  company 
p),  in  August, 
hich  disclosed 
ist  passage,  but 
and  WoUaston 
jrM'Clintock's 
ving  additions : 

|atc,  npoti  this  date, 
loBERT  M'Clubb. 


press  one  in  a 

1  heard  from  for 

[of  her  not  yet 

]age   had  been 

re.     Here  was 

Leen  known  to 

I'CUntock  were 


lieutenants  together  in  the  Enterprib:  when  she  was 
sent  after  Sir  John  Franklin,  in  1848,  and  wintered  to- 
gether in  her  at  Port  Leopold.  Now,  from  difl'erent 
hemispheres,  they  had  come  so  near  meeting  at  this  old 
block  of  sandstone  !  Mr.  Mecham  bade  his  mate  build 
a  new  cairn,  to  put  the  record  of  the  story  in,  and  hur- 
ried on  to  the  Resolute  with  his  great  news. 

It  thus  became  known  to  Kellett  and  his  companions 
that  the  Investigator  had  been  frozen  up  in  the  Bay  of 
Mercy,  only  one  hundred  and  seventy  miles  from  their 
own  position.  It  must  have  been  a  sore  trial,  to  all  par- 
ties, to  wait  the  winter  through,  and  not  even  get  a 
message  across.  But,  until  winter  made  it  too  cold  and 
dark  to  travel,  the  ice  in  the  strait  was  so  broken  up 
that  it  was  impossible  to  attempt  to  traverse  it,  even 
with  a  light  boat  for  the  lanes  of  water.  So,  the  differ- 
ent autumn  parties  came  in,  and  the  officers  and  men 
entered  on  their  winter's  work  and  play,  to  push  off  the 
winter  days  as  quickly  as  they  could. 

The  system  of  travelling  in  the  fall  and  spring 
abridges  materially  the  length  of  the  Arctic  winter  as 
Ross,  Parry,  and  Back,  used  to  experience  it ;  and  it 
was  only  from  the  1st  of  November  to  the  10th  of 
March  that  Kellett's  party  were  left  to  their  own  re- 
sources. Late  in  October  one  of  the  Resolute's  men 
died,  and  in  December  one  of  the  Intrepid 's  ;  but,  ex- 
cepting these  cases,  they  had  little  sickness  —  for  weeks 
no  one  on  the  sick-list ;  —  indeed,  Capt.  Kellett  says  that 
a  sufficiency  of  good  provisions,  with  plenty  of  work 
in  the  open  air,  will  insure  good  health  in  the  Arctic 
climate. 

As  early  in  the  spring  as  he  dared  risk  a  travelling 

party,  namely,  on  the   10th  of  March,   1853,  he  sent 

what  they  all  called  a  forlorn  hope  across  to  the  Bay 

of  Mercy,  to  find  traces  of  the  Investigator ;   for  they 

33* 


390 


PIM'S  JOURNEY. 


scarcely  ventured  to  hope  that  she  was  still  there.  This 
start  was  earlier  by  thirty-five  days  than  the  early  par- 
ties had  started  on  the  preceding  expedition.  But  it 
was  every  way  essential  that,  if  M'Clure  had  wintered 
in  the  Bay  of  Mercy,  the  messenger  should  reach  him 
before  he  sent  off  any  or  all  his  men,  in  travelling  par- 
ties, in  the  spring.  The  little  forlorn  hope  consisted  of 
ten  men,  under  the  command  of  Lieut.  Pirn,  an  officer 
who  had  been  with  Kellett  in  the  Herald  on  the  Pacific 
side,  had  spent  a  winter  in  the  Plover  up  Behring's 
Strait,  and  had  been  one  of  the  last  men  whom  M'Clure 
and  his  crew  had  seen  before  they  sailed  into  the  Arctic 
Ocean,  to  discover,  as  it  proved,  the  north-west  pas- 
sage. 

Lieut.  Pim  started  with  a  sledge  and  seven  men  un- 
der his  own  immediate  command,  and  a  dog-sledge  with 
two  men  under  Dr.  Domville,  the  surgeon,  who  was  to 
bring  back  the  earliest  news  to  Captain  Kellett.  There 
was  also  a  relief-sledge  to  accompany  the  party  a  por- 
tion of  the  way.  Pirn's  orders  were  to  go  at  once  to 
the  Bay  of  Mercy  in  search  of  the  Investigator ;  if  she 
was  gone,  to  follow  any  traces  of  her,  and  if  possible  to 
communicate  with  her  or  her  consort,  the  Enterprise. 

One  of  the  sledges  broke  down  soon  after  the  party 
started,  and  they  had  to  send  back  for  another.  Bad 
weather  came  on,  and  compelled  them  to  encamp  on  the 
ice.  "Fortunately,"  says  the  lieutenant,  "the  temper- 
ature arose  from  fifty-one  degrees  below  zero  to  thirty- 
six  below,  and  there  remained  ;  "  while  the  drifts  accu- 
mulated to  such  a  degree  around  the  tents,  that  within 
them  the  thermometer  was  only  twenty  below,  and 
when  they  cooked  rose  to  zero.  There  they  lay  three 
days,  smoking  and  sleeping  in  their  bags.  On  the 
fourth  day  a  new  sledge  arrivx^d  from  the  ship,  and  they 
got  under  way   again.     Thus  far  they  were   running 


PIM'S  JOURNEY. 


891 


re.    This 
sarly  par- 
But  it 
wintered 
■each  him 
filing  par- 
nsisted  of 
an  officer 
the  Pacific 
Behring's 
m  M'Clure 
the  Arctic 
i-west  pas- 

T." 

m  men  tm- 
sledge  with 
who  was  to 
^ett.     There 
arty  a  por- 
at  once  to 
,tor ;  if  she 
possible  to 
iterprise. 
r  the  party 
ither.     Bad 
amp  on  the 
the  temper- 
■0  to  thirty- 
drifts  accu- 
that  within 
Ibelow,  and 
;y  lay  three 
On   the 
|p,  and  they 
ire   running 


along  the  shore ;  but  they  soon  sent  back  the  relief-party 
which  had  brought  the  new  sledge,  and  a  few  days  after 
set  out  to  cross  a  strait,  some  thirty  miles  wide,  which, 
when  it  is  open  (as  no  man  has  yet  seen  it),  is  one 
avenue  of  the  north-west  passage  discovered  by  these 
expeditions. 

They  got  on  slowly,  and  with  great  difficulty.  Only 
three  miles  the  first  day,  four  miles  the  second  day,  two 
and  a  half  the  third,  and  half  a  mile  the  fourth ;  this 
was  all  they  gained  by  most  laborious  hauling  over  the 
broken  ice,  dragging  one  sledge  at  a  time,  and  some- 
times carrying  forv/ard  the  stores  separately,  and  going 
back  for  the  sledges.  Two  days  more  gave  them 
another  eight  miles,  but  on  the  seventh  day  of  their 
passage  across  this  narrow  strait  the  great  sledge 
slipped  off  a  smooth  hummock,  broke  one  runner,  and 
brought  the  party  to  a  stand-still. 

Having  now  nothing  but  the  little  dog-sledge  tc  carry 
them  on,  —  with  the  ship  a  hundred  miles  ofi",  and  the 
thermometer  at  eighteen  below  zero,  —  the  two  officers 
had  some  discussion  as  to  their  future  proceedings. 
Dr.  Domville,  whose  sledge,  the  James  Fitzjames,  was 
still  sound,  thought  they  had  best  leave  the  stores  and 
go  back  ;  but  Lieut.  Pirn,  who  had  the  chief  command, 
thought  otherwise ;  so  he  took  the  James  Fitzjames, 
with  the  two  men  belonging  to  it,  and  pushed  on,  leav- 
ing the  doctor  in  the  floe,  but  giving  him  directions  to 
take  the  broken  sledge  back  to  land,  and  there  wait  for 
him  to  return.  /, 

On  went  the  lieutenant  and  his  two  men,  over  ice, 
over  hummock,  —  feeding  their  dogs  on  preserved  meats 
for  want  of  game,  —  until  they  left  the  strait  behind, 
and  came  to  Banks's  Land.  Still  they  found  no  game, 
Pim  was  taken  sick,  and  for  a  whole  day  was  obliged 
to  remain  shut  up  in  the  tent.     A  few  hours'  sleep  re- 


892 


MEETING  WITH  M'CLURE. 


freshed  him,  and  the  party  started  on  again.  At  last, 
after  many  weary  days'  travel,  they  got  upon  the  Bay 
of  Mercy.  No  ship  was  in  sight.  Right  across  the 
bay  went  the  lieutenant  to  search  for  records,  when,  at 
two  o'clock  p.  M.,  one  of  the  men  saw  something  black 
in  the  distance.  Pim  looked  through  his  glass,  and 
made  it  out  to  be  i  ship.  Forthwith  the  whole  party 
proceeded  as  fast  as  possible  toward  it.  Pim,  hurrying 
along,  soon  got  in  advance  of  the  sledge,  and  walked 
on  alone. 


On  the  6th  of  April,  1853,  the  little  crew  of  the  In- 
vestigator was  in  low  spirits  :  one  of  their  comrades 
had  just  poisoned  himself.  All  hands  were  preparing 
for  the  separation  which  was  to  take  place  in  the  follow- 
ing week,  and  were  looking  forward  with  gloomy  fore- 
bodings to  their  slender  chances  of  escape,  when  an 
event  occurred,  which  we  give  in  M'Clure's  own  words  : 

"  While  walking  near  the  ship,  in  conversation  with 
the  first  lieutenant  upon  the  subject  of  digging  a  grave 
for  the  man  who  died  yesterday,  and  discussing  how  we 
could  cut  a  grave  in  the  ground  whilst  it  was  so  hardly 
frozen  (a  subject  naturally  sad  and  depressing),  we  per- 
ceived a  figure  walking  rapidly  towards  us  from  the 
rough  ice  at  the  entrance  of  the  bay.  From  his  pace 
and  gestures  we  both  naturally  supposed,  at  first,  that 
he  was  some  one  of  our  party  pursued  by  a  bear ;  but, 
as  we  approached  him,  doubts  arose  as  to  who  it  could 
be.  He  was  certainly  unlike  any  of  our  men ;  but, 
recollecting  that  it  was  possible  some  one  might  be  try- 
ing a  new  travelling-dress  preparatory  to  the  departure 
of  our  sledges,  and  certain  that  no  one  else  was  near, 
we  continued  to  advance. 

"  When  within  about  two  hundred  yards  of  us,  the 
strange  figure  threw  up  his  arms,  and  made  gesticula- 


.     At  last, 
n  the  Bay 
across  the 
3,  when,  at 
hing  black 
glass,  and 
vhole  party 
n,  hurrying 
and  walked 


1  of  the  In- 
ir  comrades 
e  preparing 
n  the  follow- 
gloomy  fore- 
)e,  when  an 
;  own  words : 
3rsation  with 
iging  a  grave 
ising  how  we 
'as  so  hardly 
Ing),  we  per- 
jus  from  the 
•om  his  pace 
at  first,  that 
la  bear ;  but, 
|who  it  could 
men;   but, 
[light  be  try- 
le  departure 
le  was  near, 

Is  of  us,  the 
le  gesticula- 


': 


MEETING  WITH  M'CLURE. 


393 


tions  resembling  those  used  by  Esquimaux,  besides  shout- 
ing at  the  top  of  his  voice  words  which,  from  the  wind 
and  intense  excitement  of  the  moment,  sounded  like  a 
wild  screech  :  and  this  brought  us  both  fairly  to  a  stand- 
still. The  stranger  came  quietly  on,  and  we  saw  that 
his  face  was  as  black*  as  ebony  ;  and  really,  at  the  mo- 
ment, we  might  be  pardoned  for  wondering  whether  he 
was  a  denizen  of  this  or  the  other  world ;  as  it  was, 
wo  gallantly  stood  our  ground,  and,  had  the  skies  fallen 
upon  us,  we  could  hardly  have  been  more  astonished 
than  v/hen  the  dark-faced  stranger  called  out,  '  I  'm  Lieu- 
tenant Pirn,  late  of  the  Herald,  and  now  in  the  Reso- 
lute.   Captain  Kellett  is  in  her,  at  Dealy  Island.' 

"  To  rush  at  and  seize  him  by  the  hand  was  the  first 
impulse,  for  the  heart  was  too  full  for  the  tongue  to 
speak.  The  announcement  of  relief  being  close  at 
hand,  when  none  was  supposed  to  be  even  within  the 
Arctic  Circle,  was  too  sudden,  unexpected,  and  joyous, 
for  our  minds  to  comprehend  it  at  once.  The  news 
flew  with  lightning  rapidity  ;  the  ship  was  all  in  com- 
motion ;  the  sick,  forgetful  of  their  maladies,  leaped 
from  their  hammocks  ;  the  artificers  dropped  their  tools, 
and  the  lower  deck  was  cleared  of  men ;  for  they  all 
rushed  for  the  hatchway,  to  be  assured  that  a  stranger 
was  actually  among  them,  and  that  his  tale  was  true. 
Despondency  fled  the  ship,  and  Lieut.  Pirn  received  a 
welcome  —  pure,  hearty,  and  grateful  —  that  he  will 
surely  remember  and  cherish  to  the  end  of  his  days." 

On  the  8th  of  April,  Pirn  and  his  men,  accompanied 
by  M'Clure  with  a  sledge-party,  set  out  on  their  return. 
Dr.  Domville,  who  had  improved  his  time  by  mending 
the  broken  sledge  and  killing  five  musk-oxen,  joined 
them  on  the  way  ;  and  on  the  19th  they  all  arrived  at 
the  quarters  of  the  Resolute  and  Intrepid.     Capt.  Kellett 

'    ,  *  Rendered  black  by  the  lamp-smoke  in  his  tent. 


3y4 


ABANDONMENT  OF  THE  INVESTIGATOR. 


was  at  fli'st  inclined  to  favor  M'Clure's  plan  of  endeav- 
oring to  save  the  Investigator :  but  on  the  2d  May 
Lieut.  Gresswell  arrived  from  her  witli  the  report  of  two 
more  deaths.  Then  it  was  arranged  that  Dr.  Domville 
should  go  back  with  M'Clure  and  hold  a  survey  on  the 
health  of  the  crew ;  that  those  who  were  unfitted  to 
stand  another  winter  should  be  ordered  home,  and  that 
the  healthy  should  have  their  option  of  going  or  re- 
mainiuGT.  The  result  was  that  only  four  men  were  will- 
ing to  remain^  though  the  officers  all  gallantly  volun- 
teered to  stand  by  the  vessel.  Boats,  stores,  &c.,  were 
accordingly  landed  to  form  a  depot  for  the  use  of  Collin- 
son,  Franklin,  or  any  other  person  who  might  happen 
along,  and  on  the  3d  June,  1853,  the  colors  were  hoisted 
to  the  mast-head,  and  officers  and  crew  bade  a  last 
farewell  to  the  Investigator.  They  arrived  at  Dealy 
Island  on  the  Itth,  and  were  accommodated  on  board 
the  Resolute  and  Intrepid.       ,  '  ■    <  ^    .  ,  /  *  v.'/ 

Kellett's  plan  was  to  send  them  down  to  Beechey  Island 
in  the  Intrepid  at  the  first  breaking  up  of  the  ice.  More 
than  half  his  crews  were  out  on  searching  expeditions 
when  the  Investigator's  men  arrived.  Parties  under 
M'Clintock,  Mecham,  and  Hamilton,  were  searching 
every  foot  of  land  to  the  north  and  north-west  of  Mel- 
ville Island.  They  all  came  in  at  last,  having  found  no 
traces  of  Sir  John  Franklin.  Finding  that  nothing  more 
could  be  done  in  a  north-west  direction,  Kellett  deter- 
mined to  take  both  vessels  to  Beechey  Island  as  soon  as 
the  ice  would  admit.  All  his  arrangements  were  made 
for  starting  at  any  moment.  He  built  a  store-house  on 
the  inland,  stocked  it  well  with  provisions,  and  left  in  it 
this  record  : 

"  This  is  a  house  which  I  have  named  the  *  Sailor's  Home,'  under  the 
especial  patronage  of  my  Lords  Commissioners  of  the  Admiralty. 

"  Here  royal  sailors  and  marines  are  fed,  clothed,  aod  receive  double 
pay  for  inhabiting  it."  ^  ^ 


f  eudeav- 
i  2d  May 
ort  of  two 
.  Domville 
ey  on  the 
infitted  to 
},  and  that 
)ing  or  re- 
L  were  will- 
ntly  volun- 
i,  &c.,  were 
le  of  CoUin- 
rht  happen 
rere  hoisted 
bade  a  last 
;d  at  Dealy 
id  on  board 

schey  Island 
ice.    More 
[expeditions 
Irties  under 
searching 
[est  of  Mel- 
ig  found  no 
)thing  more 
jllett  deter- 
as  soon  as 
were  made 
:e-house  on 
id  left  in  it 


le,*  under  the 
ralty. 
[■eceive  double 


LOSS  OF  BREDALBANE  TRANSPORT. 


395 


All  the  other  usual  expedients  were  resorted  to  to  while 
away  the  time  ;  but  after  the  excitement  of  the  search- 
ing parties  was  over  the  summer  passed  drearily.  The 
ice  showed  no  sign  of  breaking  up.  Mr.  Roche,  mate 
of  the  Resolute,  who  had  been  sent  down  to  the  North 
Star  for  provisions,  returned  unexpectedly,  having  been 
to  Beechey  Island  and  back,  a  distance  of  six  hundred 
miles,  in  six  weeks.  Capt.  Richards  arrived  from  North- 
umberland Sound,  bringing  news  from  Belcher's  divi- 
sion.    Little  else  occurred  to  break  the  monotony. 

Meanwhile  Lieut.  Cresswell  had  been  sent  down  to 
Beechey  Island  with  dispatches  for  the  Admiralty. 
There  he  had  the  good  fortune  to  bo  taken  on  board  of 
the  Phoenix,  in  which,  as  we  have  seen,  he  returned  to 
England,  bringing  the  first  news  of  the  safety  of  the 
Investigator,  and  the  discovery  of  the  north-west  pas- 
sage. ' ' 

Before  we  proceed  further  w'th  the  adventures  of  the 
companions  whom  he  left  at  Dealy  Island,  there  are  some 
other  matters  of  interest  connected  with  this  voyage 
of  the  Phoenix,  which  it  will  be  well  to  relate  in  this 
place.  One  of  these  is  the  loss  of  the  Bredalbane  trans- 
port, by  one  of  those  terrible  "  nips  "  which  are  so  often 
encountered  in  the  polar  seas.  This  occurred  near  Cape 
Riley,  on  the  21st  August,  1853,  and  was  witnessed  by 
the  crew  of  the  Phoenix,  in  which  vessel  the  Bredalbane's 
crew  took  refuge.  It  shows  how  very  easily  a  vessel 
may  be  destroyed  in  the  Arctic  regions,  without  a  ves- 
tige being  left  behind  to  tell  the  tale.  We  give  the 
incident  in  the  words  of  Mr.  Fowckner,  the  agent  for 
the  ship,  who  was  on  board  at  the  time  : 

"About  ten  minutes  past  four  the  ice  passing  the 
ship  awoke  me,  and  the  door  of  my  cabin,  from  the 
pressure,  opened.  I  hurriedly  put  on  my  clothes,  and, 
on  getting  up,  found  some  hands  on  the  ice  endeavor- 


896 


LOSS  OF  BREDALBANE  TRANSPORT. 


ing  to  save  the  boats,  but  these  were  instantly  crushed  to 
pieces.  I  went  forward  to  hail  the  Phcenix,  for  men  to 
save  the  boats  ;  and  whilst  doing  so  the  ropes  by  which 
we  were  secured  parted,  and  a  heavy  nip  took  the  ship, 
making  her  tremble  all  over,  and  every  timber  in  her 
creak.  I  looked  in  the  main  hold,  and  saw  the  beams 
giving  way ;  I  hailed  those  on  the  ice,  and  told  them  of 
our  critical  situation.  I  then  rushed  to  my  cabin,  and 
called  to  those  in  their  beds  to  save  their  lives.  On 
reaching  the  deck,  those  on  the  ice  called  out  to  me  to 
jump  over  the  side  —  that  the  ship  was  going  over.  I 
jumped  on  the  loose  ice,  and,  with  difficulty,  and  the 
assistance  of  those  on  the  ice,  succeeded  in  getting  on 
the  unbroken  part.  After  being  on  the  ice  about  five 
minutes,  the  timbers  in  the  ship  cracking  up  as  matches 
would  in  the  hand,  the  nip  eased  for  a  short  time,  and  I, 
with  some  others,  returned  to  the  ship,  with  the  view 
of  saving  some  of  our  effects.  Captain  Inglefield  now 
came  running  toward  the  ship.  He  ordered  me  to  see 
if  the  ice  was  through  the  ship  ;  and,  on  looking  down 
in  the  hold,  I  found  all  the  beams,  &c.,  falling  about  in 
a  manner  that  would  have  been  certain  death  to  me 
had  I  Vv.ntured  down  there.  It  was  too  evident  that 
the  ship  could  not  last  many  minutes.  I  then  sounded 
the  well,  and  found  five  feet  in  the  hold  ;  and  whilst  in 
the  act  of  sounding,  a  heavier  nip  than  before  pres'^ed 
out  the  starboard-bow,  and  the  ice  was  forced  right  into 
the  forecastle.  Every  one  then  abandoned  the  ship, 
with  what  few  clothes  he  could  save  —  some  with  only 
what  they  had  on.  The  ship  now  began  to  sink  fast, 
and  from  the  time  her  bowsprit  touched  the  ice  until 
her  mast-heads  were  out  of  sight  it  was  not  above  one 
minute  and  a  half.  From  the  time  the  first  nip  took  her 
until  her  disappearance,  it  was  not  more  than  fifteen 
minutes." 


DEATH  OF  BELLOT. 


897 


crushed  to 
for  men  to 
3  by  which 
k  the  ship, 
iber  in  her 
the  beams 
)ld  them  of 
cabin,  and 
lives.     On 
ut  to  me  to 
ig  over.     I 
ty,  and  the 
getting  on 
!  about  five 
)  as  matches 
time,  and  I, 
ith  the  view 
glefield  now 
me  to  see 
>oking  down 
ing  about  in 
eath  to  me 
ivident  that 
len  sounded 
nd  whilst  in 
ore  pres'^ed 
d  right  into 
I   the  ship, 
e  with  only 
sink  fast, 
te  ice  until 
above  one 
lip  took  her 
;han  fifteen 


But  the  saddest  episode  in  Arctic  history  that  Ingle- 
field  had  to  report  was  the  death  of  Lieut.  Bcllot,  the 
gallant  young  Frenchman  who  acted  so  prominent  a 
part  in  the  voyage  of  the  Prince  Albert,  under  Kennedy. 
Bellot's  zeal  and  enthusiasm  had  led  him  again  into  the 
regions  of  ice  and  snow,  under  Inglefield.  While  there, 
he  volunteered  to  lead  a  party  over  the  ice,  in  August, 
1853,  to  Sir  Edward  Belcher's  squadron,  which  was  at 
that  time  near  Cape  Beecher,  in  Wellington  Channel. 
This  party  consisted  of  four  men  —  namely,  Harvey, 
Johnson,  Madden,  and  Hook. 

On  Friday,  the  12th  of  August,  he  started,  with  his 
little  band,  from  Beechey  Island  (at  which  place  the 
North  Star  was  lying),  in  charge  of  dispatches  from 
Captain  Pullen.  At  this  season  of  the  year  travelling 
on  ice  is  always  considered  dangerous,  both  on  account 
of  its  decayed  condition,  and  its  liability  to  separate 
fruiii  the  shore  and  break  up.  Accordingly,  Pullen  cau- 
tioned Bellot  to  keep  as  close  to  the  eastern  shore  of 
Wellington  Channel  as  possible,  and  provided  the  party 
with  one  of  the  light  India-rubber  boats,  which  could  be 
easily  dragged  on  their  sledge,  and  without  which,  at 
such  a  season,  it  would  have  been  very  unsafe  to  travel. 

That  evening  they  encamped  about  three  miles  from 
Cape  Innes.  Next  day  they  made  considerable  progress, 
and  when  night  approached  made  their  bed  upon  the 
broken  ice  over  which  they  had  been  plodding  during 
the  day.  This  was  near  Cape  Bodwen.  On  the  follow- 
ing day,  which  was  Sunday,  they  passed  a  crack  about 
four  feet  wide,  running  across  the  channel.  During  all 
this  time  no  doubts  were  entertained  as  to  the  safe  con- 
dition of  the  ice  ;  and  Bellot,  in  his  usual  encouraging 
way,  cheeied  on  the  men,  and  put  his  shoulder  to  the 
tracking-lines,  saying  that  he  wished  to  get  to  a  cape 
which  was  seen  a  good  way  ahead,  and  which  he  called 
34 


398 


DEATH  OF  BELLOT. 


i||i  '<;i!l 


Cape  Grinnell.  .  ear  this  it  was  desirable  to  encamp 
in-shorc,  if  possible. 

On  arriving  iit  the  capo,  it  was  found  that  there  was 
a  broad  bolt  of  water  between  the  ice  and  the  shore. 
This  would  have  been  a  matter  of  little  moment,  had 
there  been  no  wind,  as  they  could  have  easily  crossed 
it  in  the  boat ;  but  there  was  unfortunately  a  strong 
breeze  blowing  from  the  south-east,  which  curled  up  the 
surface  of  the  cold  black  waves  in  a  very  ominous  way. 
There  was  no  help,  however  ;  so  the  boat  was  launched, 
and  Bellot  endeavored  to  reach  the  shore  in  it  alone, 
intending  to  convey  a  line  by  which  the  remainder  of 
the  party  and  the  provisions  might  be  dragged  over. 
In  this  attempt  he  failed,  the  violence  of  the  gale  being 
too  much  for  him  ;  he  therefore  returned  to  the  ice, 
and  ordered  Harvey  and  Madden  to  get  in  and  attempt 
the  passage  together.  This  they  did,  and  were  suc- 
cessful in  landing ;  after  which  they  began  the  opera- 
tion of  passing  and  repassing  the  boat  between  the  ice 
and  the  shore,  by  means  of  linos.  In  this  way  three 
loads  were  landed  from  the  sledge,  and  the  party  on  the 
ice  were  hauling  the  boat  oft'  for  a  fourth,  when  Mad- 
den, who  had  hold  of  the  shore-line,  and  was  up  to  his 
middle  in  the  water,  called  out  suddenly  that  the  ice 
was  on  the  move,  and  driving  ofi"  shore.  It  was  evi- 
dent that  he  could  not  hold  the  line  longer  without 
being  dragged  into  deep  water ;  so  Bellot  called  out  to 
him  to  let  go,  which  he  did. 

Bellot  and  his  two  men  then  hauled  the  boat  on  to 
the  sledge,  and  ran  it  up  to  the  windward  side  of  the 
ice,  intending  to  launch  it  there  and  make  for  the  shore. 
Ere  this  could  be  accomplished,  however,  the  ice,  whose 
motion  was  rapidly  increasing,  had  drifted  so  far  from 
the  shore  as  to  render  all  idea  of  reaching  it  hopeless. 
It  may  be  imagined  with  what   feelings   Madden   and 


MATH      OF     BElLOr.  ggg 

Harvoy  now  hastened   to  .„ 

"'oir  comrades  dnfting.  out  T,    """'""""'•  ""^  watched 

'■"PO  of  escape    ™rf  rt  '  "'""-'''  "'"'  '■"'•"'cr  from 

»"-..' two  ho'ulti;.?;'  """^"^^  "-  ""fti»S  i^ 
'-t   they  were   los    i  It     "f  ""^  "«""•  "■'"I  "t 
When  last  seen,  th     two  J  ""'"'   "'"  ^'''^'"^  »"-• 
Pledge,  and  Uelbt  o    t  "tonn-r  T"  ''""'""^  "^  the 

Madden  and  jr  '°P  °' " '"""mock, 

and  instantly  bo>r-,!r>f  •'""'  '"'•''''""'ded  to  the  shore 
i:"oy  wa.ted'ror  G  ffi':  '^^"'nr""^  *"  *•"=  «'">' 
s>ons,  and  reached  Caoe  .  1  7'  "'"'  '""■^  ""'«  P^W- 
to  take  some  rest.  Wh,l  T,  '"'  "''"'^  ''"'^  ™'»-''ed 
hastening  toward  them  ToT-  *""  """'  '''"'  ^««n 
joy,  these  proved  to  hp  T  i  ^'''""  surprise  and 

almost  n>imculo„;iy  Lied  ;"""',>.'""'  ^°*'  '^''O  "ad 
o"  the  ice ;  but  tliTZ'''[Z  '"''  """'"'^  P»-«on 
that  their  companion,  ZbZTT'""':  *""  '^'^  *<"<» 
gone.        _  '""^'^  young  Frenchman,  was 

■      though  not  without  ™„ch  diffl   t  '"'^  ""^"""^  '■"  safety! 
The  melancholy  fateTfpo  fBe";  ^  ""^  ^^^"^  P-'afon. 
than  by  giving  i^  ;„  th'e  word  "of' J  T'  '"  '''""•  '<"•» 
"-ith  him  on  the  ice  at  tZT    "'^.'^ohnson,  who  was 
got  the  provisions  on  shore''  sf  f    "  ^"''^-    "  ^^ 
honth^    After  we  hadlne^t  V'""'''"'^^''^^' 
the  ,ce  Hook,  Lie„t.  Bellot  Zi       '    ^''^  ■'O'nained  on 
the  sledge,  Mackintosl^lfr.   '"T''  '■^^"'S-ith  us- 
-onced  trying  to  draw  the"  'fan'd    ,'"!"'  """'■     ^''- 
'^ard,  but  found  the  ice  l^T  ''''''se  to  the  south- 

*dge  and  took  the  boat  o7 '^ '"'  """ -"  'o"  tl-o 
strong  at  the  time  that  ifblew';;  'f  '""^  "'°'J  -as  so 
We  then  took  the  boat  with  ,7  .  ""'  "^"^  ""d  over, 
of  .-00,  and  Mr.  Bellot  'on  r;,™^*^:  ^'"^'ter  of  a  piece 
:-■  """"'OS  oommenced  cutting 


400 


DEATH   OF   BELLOT. 


an  icc-houso  with  our  knives  for  slielter.  Mr,  Bellot  sat 
for  half  an  hour  in  conversation  with  us,  talking  on  the 
danger  of  our  position.  I  told  him  I  was  not  afraid,  and 
that  the  American  expedition  was  driven  up  and  down 
this  channel  by  the  ice.  lie  replied,  '  I  know  they 
w(.'re  ;  and  when  the  Lord  protects  us,  not  a  hair  of  our 
heads  shall  be  touched,' 

"  I  then  asked  Mr.  Bellot  what  time  it  was.  lie  said, 
'  About  quarter  past  eight  a.  m.'  (Thursday,  the  18th), 
and  then  lashed  up  his  books,  and  said  he  would  go  and 
see  how  the  ice  was  driving.  lie  had  only  been  gone 
about  four  minutes,  when  I  went  round  the  same  hum- 
mock under  which  we  were  sheltered  to  look  for  him, 
but  could  not  see  him  ;  and,  on  returning  to  our  shelter, 
saw  his  stick  on  the  opposite  side  of  a  crack,  about  five 
fathoms  wide,  and  the  ice  all  breaking  up.  I  then 
culled  out  '  Mr.  Bellot  1  '  but  no  answer  —  (at  this  time 
blowing  very  heavy).  After  this,  I  again  searched 
round,  but  could  see  nothing  of  him. 

"  I  believe  that  when  he  got  from  the  shelter  the 
wind  blew  him  into  the  crack,  and,  his  south-wester 
being  tied  down,  he  could  not  rise.  Finding  there  was 
no  hope  of  again  seeing  Lieut.  Bellot,  I  said  to  Hook, 
'  I  'm  not  afi'aid  :  I  know  the  Lord  will  always  sustain 
us.'  We  commenced  travelling,  to  try  to  get  to  Cape 
De  Haven,  or  Port  Phillips ;  and,  when  we  got  within 
two  miles  of  Cape  De  Haven,  could  not  get  on  shore  ; 
and  returned  for  this  side,  endeavoring  to  get  to  the 
southward,  as  the  ice  was  driving  to  the  northward. 
We  were  that  night  and  the  following  day  in  coming 
across,  and  came  into  the  land  on  the  eastern  shore  a 
long  way  to  the  northward  of  the  place  where  we  were 
driven  off.  We  got  into  the  land  at  what  Lieut.  Bellot 
told  us  was  Point  Hogarth. 

"  In  drifting  up  the  straits  towards  the  Polar  Sea,  we 


DEATH  OF   BELLOT. 


401 


Bcllot  sat 
[ig  on  the 
fraid,  and 
md  down 
now  tlioy 
liair  of  our 

,   IIo  said, 
the  ISth), 
uld  go  and 
been  gone 
game  lium- 
)k  for  liim, 
3ur  shelter, 
,  about  five 
p.     I  then 
it  this  time 
n  searched 

shelter  the 
luth-wester 
there  was 
^d  to  Hook, 
lys  sustain 
;et  to  Cape 
got  within 
on  shore  ; 
get  to  the 
[northward, 
in  coming 
irn  shore  a 
e  we  were 
eut.  Bellot 

ar  Sea,  we 


saw  an  iceberg  lying  close  to  the  shore,  and  found  it 
on  the  ground.  We  succeeded  in  getting  on  it,  and 
remained  for  six  hours.  I  said  to  David  Hook,  '  Don't 
be  afraid  ;  we  must  make  a  boat  of  a  piece  of  ice.' 
Accordingly,  we  got  on  to  a  piece  pasaiiig,  and  I  hud  a 
paddle  belonging  to  the  India-rubber  boat.  By  this 
piece  of  drift-ice  we  managed  to  reach  the  shore,  and 
then  proceeded  to  where  the  accident  happened. 
Reached  it  on  Friday.  Could  not  find  our  shipmates,  or 
any  provisions.  Went  on  for  Cape  Bowdon,  and 
reached  it  on  Friday  night." 

When  the  Esquimaux  heard  of  Bellot's  death,  they 
shed  tears,  and  cried  "Poor  Bellot  1  poor  Bellot!" 
Two  years  before,  he  had  seen  an  Esquimaux  dragging 
himself  painfully  over  the  ice,  with  a  broken  leg.  To 
call  the  carpenter,  give  him  directions  to  make  a  wooden 
leg  for  the  poor  fellow,  and  to  teach  him  to  walk  with  it, 
were  matters  of  course  for  the  generous  young  French- 
man ;  but  they  were  unupual  kindnesses  for  a  white  man 
to  show  to  an  Esquimaux,  and  the  simple-hearted  peo- 
ple remembered  it  when  they  cried  "  Poor  Bellot !  " 

Poor  Bellot  1  —  his  was  a  brave,  a  generous,  and  a 
kindly  heart.  His  talents  and  energy  were  deeply 
appreciated  by  the  nation  to  which  he  had  volunteered 
his  services  ;  and  his  affectionate,  manly  disposition 
had  endeared  him  to  the  comrades  with  whom  he  had 
spent  so  many  stormy  days  and  nights  in  the  regions 
of  ice  and  snow.  The  howling  blast  of  the  north,  and 
the  dark  waters  of  the  polar  seas,  are  sweeping  over 
his  mortal  frame;  but  an  imperishable  wreath  —  a 
tribute  of  gratitude  and  afiection,  twined  by  the  hands 
of  France  and  England — shall  rest  upon  his  brow  for- 
ever. 

Mr.  Bellot  is  another  added  to  the  list  of  those  brave, 
enthusiastic   spirits,  that  have  been   thus  prematurely 
34* 


I 


402 


DEATH   OF  BELLOT. 


snatched  away,  and  vrrapt  in  the  cold  embrace  of  the 
Arctic  seas.  The  English  have  expressed  their  sense 
of  his  services  and  his  virtues  by  a  subscription  for  his 
family,  and  for  a  monument  to  be  erected  to  his  memory 
in  Greenwich  Hospital. 

Capt.  Inglefield,  in  his  steamer  the  Phoenix,  accom- 
panied by  the  sailing-vessel  Talbot,  was  sent  to  the 
Arctic  regions  again  in  1854,  with  dispatches  and  sup- 
plies for  Sir  E.  Belcher.  There  we  shall  hear  of  him 
again  in  the  course  of  our  narrative. 


!  .  r 


» 


1m- 


\ 


, ' .  ■  I 


■*-•  n     ■  -^     ^ 


3e  of  the 

eir  sense 
m  for  his 
3  memory 

x,  accom- 

nt  to  the 

and  sup- 

ar  of  him 


jx  ■■  n  i 


■.*'■ 

^.^r 

*  1^ 

\A\  I'-iH 

■••i 

■■■,v,in.T 

,.?>  Cild* 

» 

- 

M-» 



t 

fc*-^ 

^c 

;;,«? 

'-^ 

r-  -;.-Jr 

-     -.^ 

'^      ,'''i 

l*-'  fi'-jf 


!  '■•'  f'5 ;'  P 


,i'r 


CHAPTER   XVIII. 

THE   KESOLTJTE   AND    INTREPID. — BESET    AGAIN.  —  WINTER    IN   THE   PACK. 

BOTH    VESSELS    ABANDONED. BELCHER's    EXPLORATIONS. REMAINS 

OF  STRUCTURES. — ATTEMPT  TO  REACH  BEECHEY  ISLAND.  —  ABANDON- 
MENT  OF   THE   ASSISTANCE   AND  PIONEER. — ALL    PARTIES   ASSEMBLE    AT 

BEECHEY   ISLAND. ARRIVAL    OF    THE    PHCENIX     AND   TALBOT.  —  RETURN 

TO  ENGLAND.  —  OUTWARD  VOYAGE  OF  THE  PHCENIX.  —  COLLINSON's 
VOYAGE. —  RAe's  EXPEDITION. — RELICS  OF  FRANKLIN.  —  ANDERSON'S 
JOURNEY. 

The  Resolute  and  Intrepid,  with  their  inmates,  includ- 
ing the  sixty  men  from  the  Investigator,  remained  ice- 
bound at  Dealy  Island  during  the  best  part  of  the 
summer  of  1853.  At  last,  on  the  18th  of  August,  a 
strong  gale  blowing  off  shore  broke  up  the  ice.  The 
vessels  at  once  got  under  way  ;  by  night  they  were  at 
sea,  and  the  navigators  congratulated  themselves  that 
they  were  now  fairly  making  progress  towards  homo. 
But  within  twenty-four  hours  they  were  brought  up  by 
the  pack  of  Byam  Martin  Channel ;  and  there  they  lay 
watching  for  an  opening  to  dash  across  to  BathurstLand, 
and  run  for  Beechey  Island  under  its  lee. 

Day  after  day  passed.  The  drifting  pack  presented 
no  available  opening.  Winter  was  fast  advancing. 
The  prospect  of  escape  before  another  season  began  to 
look  gloomy.  Still,  the  navigators  did  not  abandon 
the  hope  ;  but  they  occupied  themselves  in  securing 
game,  as  a  provision  against  the  coming  winter.  This 
they  found  in  abundance,  especially  musk-oxen ;  and 
some  ten  thousand  pounds  were  obtained  and  frozen. 
An  attempt  was  finally  made  to  force  through  the  pack  ; 


404 


THE  RESOLUTE  AND  INTREPID. 


but  on  the  9th  of  September  the  vessels  became  firmly 
imbedded  in  the  newly-formed  ice,  and,  a  north-west  gale 
forcing  the  pack  upon  them,  they  were  fairly  beset,  and 
obliged  to  go  whither  it  and  Providence  listed. 

Two  months  they  were  drifting  helplessly,  amidst 
great  perils.  Right  pleased  was  Kellett  to  find  that 
after  the  12th  of  November  the  ships  were  at  rest, 
having  reached  a  point  about  due  east  of  Winter  Harbor, 
Melville  Island,  in  longitude  101°  west,  —  an  admirable 
position  for  an  early  escape  in  the  ensuing  season. 
Here  they  passed  the  winter  of  1853-4,  — long  months 
of  darkness  and  weariness,  but  with  no  worse  mishap 
than  the  loss  of  one  officer,  who  died  on  the  14th  of 
November. 

The  log-book  of  that  winter  is  a  curious  record ;  the 
iugenuity  of  the  officer  in  charge  was  well  tasked  to 
make  one  day  differ  from  another.  Each  day  has  the 
first  entry  for  "  ship's  position  "  thus  :  "  In  the  floe  oif 
Cape  Cockburn ; "  and  the  blank  for  the  second  entry 
thus :  "  in  the  same  position."  Lectures,  theatricals, 
schools,„etc.,  whiled  away  the  time. 

The  spring  of  1854  arrived.  M'Clure  and  his  crew 
started  with  sledges  on  the  14th  of  April  for  Beechey 
Island,  to  find  a  resting-place  on  board  the  North  Star 
and  at  the  depot.  Kellett  made  arrangements  to  con- 
tinue the  search.  While  thus  engaged,  he  received  a 
letter  from  Sir  Edward  Belcher,  suggesting  that,  rather 
than  risk  the  detention  of  another  season,  he  should 
abandon  his  ships  and  meet  him  (Belcher)  at  Beechey 
Island  before  the  26th  of  August.  Kellett  remon- 
strated, stating  that  the  vessels  were  in  a  favorable 
position  for  escape  ;  that  they  had  abundance  of  pro- 
visions, and  that  parties  concerned  in  deserting  ships 
under  such  circumstances  "  would  deserve  to  have  the 
jackets  taken  off  their  backs."     Then  came  a  positive 


REMAINS  OF  ESQUIMAUX  HOUSES. 


405 


i  firmly 
est  gale 
set,  and 

^  amidst 
ind  that 
at  rest, 
:  Harbor, 
,dmirable 
■  season. 
cr  months 
e  mishap 
!  14th  of 

cord;  the 
tasked  to 
ly  has  the 
;he  floe  off 
ond  entry 
eatricals, 

his  crew 
Beechey 
forth  Star 
|ts  to  con- 
received  a 
|at,  rather 
tie  should 
Beechey 
tt  remon- 
Ifavorable 
le  of  pro- 
[ng  ships 
1  have  the 
positive 


order  from   Belcher.      Both  vessels  were  to  be  aban- 
doned. 

Two  distant  travelling  parties  were  already  out  on 
searching  expeditions.  Word  was  left  at  a  proper  point 
for  their  guidance.  Then,  having  fitted  the  Intrepid's 
engines  so  that  she  could  be  got  under  steam  in  two 
hours,  having  stored  both  ships  with  provisions,  and 
made  them  in  every  respect  "  ready  for  occupation,"  Kel- 
lett  ordered  the  hatches  to  be  calked  down,  all  hands 
looked  their  last  on  the  Resolute  and  Intrepid,  and  on 
the  15th  of  May,  1854,  they  started,  with  sledges,  for 
Beechey  Island,  where  their  unexpected  arrival  caused 
much  surprise  to  the  officers  and  crew  of  the  Investi- 
gator, who  had  preceded  them. 

All  this  time  the  other  division  of  the  squadron, 
consisting  of  the  Assistance  and  Pioneer,  under  Sir 
Edward  Belcher,  which,  as  we  have  seen,  sailed  north 
on  the  day  before  Kellett  sailed  west,  namely,  on  the 
14th  of  August,  1852,  had  been  engaged  in  exploring 
Wellington  Channel.     Having  reached  latitude  '1Q°  52', 

^  and  longitude  St"  west,  the  vessels  came  to  anchor 
in  a  locality  near  Cape  Beecher,  which  was  chosen  for 
their  winter  quarters.  Boat  and  sledge  explorations  to 
the  northward  were  commenced  on  the  23d  of  August. 
On  the  25th,  when  rounding  a  point  where  the  coast 
suddenly  turns  to  the  eastward,  the  remains  of  several 
well-built  Esquimaux  houses  were  discovered.  "  They 
were,"  says  Belcher,  "  not  simply  circles  of  small 
stones,  but  two  lines  of  well-laid  wall  in  excavated 
ground,  filled  in  between  by  about  two  feet  of  fine 
gravel,  well  paved,  and,  withal,  presenting  the  appear- 
ance of  great  care  —  more,  indeed,  than  I  am  willing  to 
attribute   to  the  rude    inhabitants  or  migratory  Esqui- 

'    maux.     Bones  of  deer,  wolves,  seals,  etc.,  were  numer- 
ous, and  coal  was  found."     There  is  no  mention  of  any 


406 


BELCHER'S   EXPEDITION. 


i 


search  having  been  made  for  a  record,  though  in  all 
probability  this  was  not  neglected  ;  yet  the  absence  of 
any  cairn  would  seem  to  render  it  unlikely  that  such  a 
document  existed. 

The  explorations  led  to  the  discovery  of  various  lands, 
to  the  most  extensive  of  which  the  name  of  North  Corn- 
wall was  given,  and  of  several  islands  washed  by  a  sea 
open  to  the  north,  which  Belcher  regarded  as  the  polar 
basin.  The  name  of  Victoria  Aj'chipelago  was  given  to 
a  group  of  islands  in  1S°  10'  ;  and  the  easternmost,  form- 
ing the  channel  which  communicates  with  the  Polar  Sea, 
was  named  North  Kent.  ...  .     ,, 

On  the  2d  of  May,  1853,  the  north-east  division  of  the 
sledging-parties  loft  the  ship,  and  soon  reached  the  limit 
of  their  discoveries  of  the  previous  year. 

During  this  journey  Belcher  pushed  toward  North 
Cornwall  and  Jones's  Strait ;  but  was  unexpectedly 
stopped  beyond  Cape  Disraeli,  about  the  end  of  the 
month  on  which  he  set  out,  by  the  early  disruption  of 
the  ice. 

"  The  sight  which  I  obtained  from  this  cape,"  says 
he,  "  elevated  six  hundred  and  eighty  feet  above  the 
sea,  led  me  to  hope  for  better  success  duo  east.  On 
that  course  we  proceeded  three  days  on  a  smooth  floe, 
making  thirty-six  miles,  when  v  e  reached,  on  the  18th, 
the  entrance  of  a  splendid  channel.  Fog  had  for 
some  time  worried  us  with  indistinct  glimpses  of  the 
approaches  ;  but,  as  it  now  cleared  off,  and  the  sun 
enlivened  the  scene,  we  were  regaled  with  such  a  mag- 
nificent view  of  successive  beetling  headlands  on  either 
side  of  the  channel,  and  extending  for  about  twenty 
miles,  that  it  really  became  a  puzzling  matter  to  find 
names  for  them.  Of  one  thing  I  felt  quite  convinced  — 
namely,  that  we  were  now  really  in  Jones's  Channel. 
The  latitude,  the   direction,  the   limit  in  longitude  to 


BELCHER'S  EXPEDITION. 


407 


h  in  all 
ence  of 
t  such  a 

IS  lands, 
:th  Corn- 
by  a  sea 
;he  polar 
ofiven  to 
ost,  form- 
>olar  Sea, 

ion  of  the 
[the  limit 

ird  North 

jxpectedly 

pd   of  the 

uption  of 

^pe,"  says 
ibove  the 
least.     On 
looth  floe, 
the  18th, 
had   for 
5es  of  the 
the   sun 
ich  a  mag- 
Is  on  either 
lut  twenty 
ler  to  find 
ivinced  — ■ 
Channel, 
igitude  to 


wliich  we  could  see,  only  required  an  extension  of  sixty 
miles  to  lead  to  the  cairn  erected  by  Captain  Austin's 
party.  The  roughness  of  the  frozen  pack  now  com- 
pelled us  to  take  to  the  land,  and  we  advanced  easily 
five  or  six  miles,  when  a  further  stop  to  our  prog- 
ress was  opposed  in  the  shape  of  an  abrupt  glacier, 
and  the  moiufying  discovery  that  its  base  was  washed 
by  the  sea,  while  the  off-lying  pack  was  rotten  and 
tumbling  asunder. 

"  Not  easily  daunted,  it  was  determined  to  try  an 
overlanu  route,  and  avoid  this  unfortunate  hole,  as  we 
then  thought  it.  Provisions,  etc.,  were  strapped  on,  and 
we  soon  started  to  view  what  we  had  to  contend  with 
before  deciding  on  our  ultimate  mode  of  action.  The 
hills  continued  increasing  in  height  as  we  advanced, 
until  they  reached  fifteen  hundred  feet.  We  then 
dof'condcd  and  took  up  another  position  at  nearly  the 
same  height  as  the  last  bluff,  when  we  encamped  for 
the  night.  All  our  hopes  were  crushed  !  Between  us 
and  the  distant  bluff  the  open  sea  prevailed  on  the 
20th  of  May  !  The  horizon  was  streaked  with  open 
*  sailing-ice,'  and  all  communication  cut  off  for  sledges. 
The  bluff*,  distant  sixteen  miles,  was  clearly  the  turn- 
ing-point into  Jones's  Channel ;  no  land  was  visible 
beyond  it." 

More  than  once  their  hopes  were  raised,  during  the 
return-journey,  by  the  discovery  of  the  remains  of 
structures  that  had  evidently  been  made  by  human 
hands,  yet  not,  apparently,  by  those  of  Esquimaux. 
"  Our  progress  was  tantalizing,  and  attended  with  deep 
interest  and  excitement.  In  the  first  place,  I  discov- 
ered, on  the  brow  of  a  mountain  about  eight  hundred 
feet  above  the  sea,  what  appeared  to  be  a  recent  and 
a  very  workmanlike  structure.  This  was  a  dome,  —  or 
rather  a  double  cone,  or  ice-house,  —  built  of  very  heavy 


408 


BELCHER'S  EXPEDITION. 


and  tabular  slabs,  which  no  single  person  could  carry 
It  consisted  of  about  forty  courses,  eight  feet  in  diam- 
eter, and  eigh^  feet  in   depth,  when  cleared,  but  only 
five  in  height  from  the  base  of  the  upper  cone  as  we 
opened  it. 

"  Most  carefully  was  every  stone  removed,  every 
atom  of  moss  or  earth  scrutinized  ;  the  stones  at  the 
bottom  also  taken  up  ;  but  without  finding  a  trace  of 
any  record,  or  of  the  structure  having  been  used  by 
any  human  being.  It  was  filled  by  drift  snow,  but  did 
not  in  any  respect  bear  the  appearance  of  having  been 
built  more  than  a  season.  This  was  named  *  Mount 
Discovery.' " 

A  short  time  afterwards  he  writes :  "  Leaving  our 
crew,  pretty  well  fatigued,  to  pitch  the  tent  and  pre- 
pare the  customary  pemmican  meal,  I  ascended  the 
mountain  above  us,  and  discovered  that  we  really  were 
not  far  from  our  old  position  of  last  year,  on  Cape 
Hogarth,  and  had  Cape  Majendie  and  Hamilton  Island 
to  the  west,  about  twenty  miles. 

"  My  surprise,  however,  was  checked  suddenly  by 
two  structures  rather  in  European  form,  and  apparently 
graves  ;  each  was  similarly  constructed,  and,  like  the 
dome,  of  large  selected  slabs,  having  at  each  end  three 
separate  stones,  laid  as  we  should  place  head  and  foot 
stones.  So  thoroughly  satisfied  was  I  that  there  was 
no  delusion,  I  desisted  from  disturbing  a  stone  until  it 
should  be  formally  done  by  the  party  assembled. 

"The  evening  following  —  for  where  the  sun  is  so 
oppressive  to  the  eyes  by  day  we  travel  by  night  —  we 
ascended  the  hill,  and  removed  the  stones.  Not  a  trace 
of  human  beings  I  " 

Thus  Belcher  and  his  men  travelled  about  during  the 
whole  season,  exploring  the  coasts  around  Wellington 
Channel,  now  on  foot,  and  then  in  boats,  as  circum- 


BELCHER'S  EXPEDITION. 


409 


Id  carry 
in  diam- 
but  only 
ne  as  we 

3d,  every 
tes  at  the 
fc  trace  of 
I  used  by 
w,  but  did 
iving  been 
sd  '  Mount 

eaving  our 
t  and  pre- 
tended the 
really  were 
r,  on  Cape 
ilton  Island 

Suddenly  by 
apparently 

id,  like  the 

[h  end  three 

id  and  foot 

there  was 

lone  until  it 
jled. 

sun  is  so 
Inight  —  we 
JNot  a  trace 

during  the 

IWellington 

as  circum- 


stances permitted,  bat  without  discovering  any  clue  to 
the  fate  of  Sir  John  Franklin.  Belcher  differs  from 
M'Clure  and  other  explorers  in  regard  to  the  abundance 
of  animal  life  in  Arctic  climes.  "  By  extraordinary  good 
fortune,"  he  says,  "bears  might  fall  in  the  way  of  the 
traveller  ;  but,  having  killed  and  eaten  his  proportion, 
I  much  doubt  if  his  strength  would  enable  him  to  drug 
the  remains  until  another  piece  of  similar  good  fortune 
befell  him.  The  assertion,  therefore,  of  any  '  teeming 
or  abundance  of  anirual  life '  in  this  north-eastern  dis- 
trict, is  utterly  untonaiilc." 

On  his  return  from  this  journey,  Belcher  first  learned 
of  the  safety  of  Captain  M'Clure  and  his  crew  in  the 
Bay  of  Mercy. 

The  ships  wero  liberated  from  the  ice  on  the  14th  of 
July.  Belcher  did  not  persevere  in  his  attempts  to 
push  further  north,  notwithstanding  his  belief  in  an 
open  Polar  Sea,  but  shaped  his  course  for  Beechey 
Island.  Cape  Majendie  was  reached  at  an  early  day.' 
Some  time  was  then  spent  in  surveying  the  Bays  of 
Baring  and  Prince  Edward,  when  the  further  advance 
of  the  ships  was  stopped  by  a  solid  floe  of  ice.  After 
much  warping  and  blasting  to  no  purpose,  in  which 
many  serious  risks  were  encountered,  the  vessels  were 
beset  for  a  second  winter  (1853-4)  at  the  southern  horn 
of  Baring's  Bay. 

When  the  spring  came.  Sir  Edward's  whole  thouglits 
seem  to  have  been  turned  towards  getting  himself  and 
crews  safe  back  to  England.  He  determined,  at  all 
events,  that  they  should  not  remain  another  winter  in 
the  ice.  With  this  view,  he  sent  the  order  to  Captain 
Kellett,  which  we  have  related,,  and  proceeded  to  manage 
his  own  vessels  in  a  similar  spirit. 

On  the  6th  of  August,  1854,  the  Assistance  and 
Pioneer  broke  out  of  their  winter  quarters,  and  advanced 

35 


410 


INGLEFIELD'S   VOYAGE. 


slowly  down  the  channel.  The  ice  in  Barrow's  Strait 
broke  up  at  the  same  time,  and  by  the  22d  the  floe  of 
Wellington  Channel  was  open  for  fifteen  miles  north  of 
the  strait.  A.  bolt  of  ice,  only  twenty  miles  in  extent, 
and  that  much  cracked,  was  all  that  remained  between 
the  ships  and  the  waters  communicating  with  the 
Atlantic  ;  yet  it  was  determined  to  abandon  the  vessels, 
and,  on  the  26th  of  August,  1854,  both  the  Assistance 
and  Pioneer  ^^'ere  deserted,  and  the  crews  made  their 
v,ay  to  Beechey  Island. 

Kellett  and  M'Clure,  with  the  men  under  their  com- 
mand, were  there  awaiting  them.  The  searching  parties 
had  come  in  during  the  summer,  and,  on  the  12th  of 
June,  Lieutenant  Mecham  had  brought  from  Princess 
Royal  Island  news  of  the  Enterprise,  the  first  that  had 
been  heard  from  her  since  1851.  lie  had  found  records 
left  by  Collinson,  as  late  as  August,  1852,  in  which  the 
latter  announced  his  intention  to  follow  the  channel 
between  Wollastou  and  Prince  Albert's  Land.  Kellett 
was  in  favor  of  remaining  and  sending  parties  to  his 
relief ;  but  Belcher  was  bent  on  going  home.  All  the 
officers  and  men  of  the  Assistance,  Pioneer,  Resolute, 
Intrepid, '  and  Investigator,  accordingly  got  on  board 
the  North  Star,  and  had  just  made  sail  when  the  Phoenix 
and  Talbot,  under  Inglefield,  hove  in  sight,  rounding 
Cape  Riley.  A  distribution  of  the  crews  was  made 
among  the  three  vessels.  On  the  6th  of  September  they 
reached  Disco,  and  on  the  28th  of  September,  1854, 
were  all  safely  landed  in  England. 

The  outward  voyage  of  Inglefield  on  this  occasion 
seems  to  have  had  its  full  share  of  dangers.  After 
safely  crossing  the  Atlantic  in  his  steamer,  the  Phoenix, 
accompanied  by  the  sailing  vessel  Talbot,  he  proceeded 
up  Bafiin's  Bay,  speaking  some  whalers  by  the  way, 
and  touching  at  Lievely  for  coal,  which  is  abundant  in 


v4 


INGLEFIELD'S  VOYAGE. 


411 


v's  Strait 
tie  floe  of 
\  north  of 
n  extent, 
[  between 
with   the 
tie  vessels, 
Assistance 
nade  their 

■  their  com- 
ling  parties 
the  12th  of 
rii  Princess 
st  that  had 
and  records 
n  which  the 
|the  channel 
d.     Kellett 
[arties  to  his 
.e.     All  the 
ir,  Resolute, 
,t  on  board 
the  Phoenix 
tt,  rounding 
was   made 
[tember  they 
kber,  1854, 

jis  occasion 

rers.     Alter 

Che  Phoenix, 

]e  proceeded 

jy  the  way, 

abundant  in 


these  regions.  Ice  soon  began  to  retard  tl'-^m,  but 
they  were  enabled  to  break  thnnigh  it  much  moi  --.  easily 
than  were  the  navigators  of  formci-  years,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  power  of  steam,  which  has  greatly  aliored 
the  mode  of  progression  even  in  the  regions  of  the 
north,  not  only  by  enabluig  the  vessels  to  wend  their 
way  among  loose  ice  in  calm  weather,  but  by  giving 
them  the  power  of  charging  the  opposing  masses  under 
full  steam,  and  so  smashing  a  passage  in  places  where, 
ibrmerly,  the  unwieldy  sailing-ship  would  have  been 
detained  for  weeks,  and  p  'h;-   s  set  fast  for  the  winter. 

"For  ten  days,"  sayr  In-^iofield,  "we  pushed  on 
through  heavy  ice,  blasting,  boring,  charging  the  nips, 
and  making  but  slow  ad 'anco,  the  bay-ice,  forming 
strong  every  night,  mu'^h  retarding  our  progress  ;  and, 
on  the  Itth  of  Angus  ,  we  were  closely  beset  at  the 
edge  of  a  large  floe  some  miled  in  extent.  Luckily,  a 
strong  gale  from  the  westward  broke  up  the  edges  of 
this  floe,  and,  on  the  weather  moderating,  slacked  the 
ice  suflSciently  to  admit  of  our  pushing  through,  and  on 
the  19th  we  were  fortunate  enough  to  get  into  the  west 
water." 

After  this  he  proceeded  to  Wollaston  Island,  where 
he  found  that  a  depot  of  provisions  had  been  discovered 
by  the  Esquimaux,  and  almost  entirely  broken  up. 
"  Deeming  it  beneficial  for  the  service  upon  which  I 
was  employed,  and  acting  under  the  discretionary  orders 
with  which  their  lordships  have  been  pleased  to  supply 
me,  I  determined  upon  examining  the  depot  near  Wollas- 
ton Island,  deposited  by  the  North  Star,  in  1850.  For 
that  purpose  I  made  the  south  shore  of  Lancaster  Sound, 
and,  on  the  21st,  about  8.30  p.  m.,  we  passed  near 
enough  to  Cape  Hay  to  observe  the  coals  deposited 
there,  in  1849,  by  Captain  Parker,  of  the  Truelove.  Ob- 
serving that  the  staff  and  two  casks  containing  letters 


412 


INGLEFIELD'S  VOYAGE. 


and  provisions  wore  missing,  I  landed,  and  found  that 
no  trace  remained  of  these  but  a  portion  of  the  head  of 
one  of  them,  and  some  broken  preserved  meat-tins. 
The  coals,  too,  had  been  either  carried  away  by  the 
Esquimaux  or  the  ice,  there  being  only  twenty-one  bags. 
A  little  after  ten  we  rounded  Cape  Castlereagh,  and 
soon  found  the  remains  of  the  North  Star's  depot. 
Anchoring  in  five  fathoms,  we  lashed  the  Talbot  along- 
side, and  on  landing  I  found  that  this  spot  had  also 
been  visited  by  the  Esquimaux.  They  had  not  only 
plundered  it  of  all  that  was  useful  to  them,  but  had 
showed  a  reckless  wantonness  in  the  destruction  of 
every  remaining  article. 

"  Of  the  six  hundred  and  eight  casks  and  cases  that 
were  landed  by  Mr.  Saunders,  only  one  hundred  and 
fourteen  remained  ;  and  each  had  been  stove  for  the 
examination  of  their  contents,  which  consisted  of  flour, 
peas,  Scotch  barley,  oat-meal,  and  tobacco.  Finding 
the  flour  only  partially  destroyed  in  each  cask,  I  deter- 
mined on  embarking  all  that  still  remained ;  and  the 
whole  was  shipped  off  to  the  Phoenix,  with  ten  tons  of 
patent  fuel,  which  latter  I  did  not  hesitate  to  embark, 
as  Sir  Edward  Belcher  had  sent  a  vessel  two  years  before 
to  examine  this  depot,  and  directed  her  commander  to 
take  the  whole  of  the  coal  from  the  neighboring  point." 

From  this  point,  the  Phoenix  and  Talbot  sailed  to 
Cape  Warrender,  at  which  place  they  were  very  nearly 
lost.  Captain  Inglefield  went  ashore  to  examine  a  cairn 
that  he  had  erected  there  the  previous  year.  Returning 
on  board,  he  found  a  strong  westerly  breeze  with  ebb- 
tide, which  prevented  much  headway  being  made ;  so 
they  returned  to  seek  ancliorage  for  the  night  in  Dundas 
Harbor.  "  Unfortunately,"  says  Inglefield,  "  when  pick- 
ing up  a  berth,  we  struck  soundings  in  fifteen  fathoms, 
and,  immediately  after  three,  both  ships  grounded  on  a 


CAPTAIN   COLLINSON. 


418 


)und  that 
e  head  of 
meat-tins, 
ay  by  the 
-one  bags, 
•cagh,  and 
r's  depot. 
Ibot  along- 
b  had  also 
I  not  only 
n,  but  had 
truction  of 

1  cases  that 
imdred   and 
ove  for  the 
ted  of  flour, 
jO.     Finding 
„sk,  I  deter- 
|d ;  and  the 
ten  tons  of 
to  embark, 
[years  bofore 
imander  to 
ring  point." 
,t  sailed  to 
very  nearly 
nine  a  cairn 
Returning 
;e  with  ebb- 
made  -,  so 
[t  in  Dundas 
'  when  pick- 
|en  fathoms, 
.mided  on  a 


mud  bank,  and,  the  tide  falling,  every  exertion  to  get 
the  Phoenix  afloat  proved  useless,  though  the  Talbot 
was  warped  oft"  into  deep  water,  whore,  both  hor  bower 
anchors  being  let  go,  tlu;  chain  of  the  small  one  was 
passed  into  the  rhu3iiix'H  quarter  hawse-hole,  and  a 
heavy  strain  brought  upon  it.  At  three  the  following 
morning  the  strong  lireeze  broke  the  ice  away  from  the 
head  of  the  bay,  and,  driving  out,  took  the  Phoenix  on 
her  starboard  broadside,  and  laid  hor  over  on  her  beam 
ends,  forcing  her  still  further  on  shore,  and  tearing  off 
the  whole  of  the  false  keel.  The  Talbot,  though  pushed 
again  on  the  bank,  escaped  any  damage  from  the  ice, 
being  sheltered  by  this  vessel,  which  was  to  windward 
of  her.  The  day  flood  proving  only  a  half-tide,  we 
remahied  immovably  fixed  until  the  evening,  by  which 
time  all  the  boats  of  both  vessels  had  been  laden  with 
heavy  stores  to  lighten  tliis  vessel :  and  I  am  happy  to 
say  that,  about  11  p.  m.,  both  ships  floated  off  into  deep 
water,  with  no  other  damage  than  I  have  stated." 

Having  now  disposed  of  all  the  searching  expeditions 
on  the  Bafliii's  J3ay  side  of  the  continent,  excepting  only 
that  of  Dr.  Kane,  to  which  wo  shall  devote  a  separate 
chapter,  it  remains  for  us  to  complete  the  history  of 
the  other  expeditions  that  proceeded  by  way  of  Behring's 
Strait.  To  connect  the  thread  of  our  narrative,  we  must 
remind  the  reader  that  we  left  her  majesty's  ship  Enter- 
prise, Captain  Collinson,  consort  of  the  Investigator,  in 
the  Pacific  Ocean.  She  reached  the  latitude  of  Icy 
Cape,  September  22d,  1850  ;  when,  meeting  the  pack- 
ice,  she  went  south  for  a  warmer  climate,  so  as  to  be 
ready  to  resume  operations  in  the  season  of  1851.  All 
that  Collinson  knew  of  the  position  of  M'Clure  was  a 
report  from  the  Plover  that  the  Investigator  had  been 
seen,  under  a  press  of  canvas,  steering  northw  "d,  off 
Wainwright  Inlet.     Unfortunately,  one  of  the  rumors 

35* 


V 

i. 


( 

IS   ' 


.ill 


414 


LIEUTKiNANT  BARNARD'S  MURDER. 


connected  with  this  report  induced  CuUinHon  to  allow 
an  enterprisinf^  young  ofTlcor,  Lieutenant  Barnard,  to 
bo  landed  in  tiie  Russian  north-west  American  settle- 
ments, in  order  to  inquire  into  the  truth.  In  carrying 
out  this  service,  Barnard  was  brutally  murdered,  in 
February,  1851,  by  Indians,  in  a  surprise  of  one  of  tho 
Russian  posts,  called  Darabin  redoubt,  not  far  from 
Norton  Sound.  The  sad  catastrophe  is  briefly  told  in 
the  handwriting  of  poor  Barnard,  in  tho  annexed  note 
to  Dr.  Adams : 

"  Dear  Adams  :  I  am  dreadfully  wounded  in  tho  abdomen  ;  my 
entrails  are  ban-jing  out.  I  do  not  suppose  I  shall  live  long  enough  to 
8oe  you.  The  Cu-u-chuc  Indians  made  the  attack  while  wo  were  iu  our 
beds.     Boskey  is  badly  wounded,  and  Darabin  is  dead. 

"I  think  my  wound  would  have  been  trifling  had  I  had  medical  advice. 
I  am  in  great  pain.  Nearly  all  the  natives  of  the  village  are  murdered. 
Set  out  for  this  place  in  all  haste.  Joun  Barnard." 

The  hand-writing  of  this  note  betrayed  the  anguish 
which  the  gallant  writer  was  suffering,  and  parts  of  it 
were  nearly  illegible. 

On  tho  29th  of  July,  1851,  Collinson,  in  the  Enter- 
prise, rounded  Point  Barrow,  steered  up  Prince  of 
Wales  Strait,  and  here,  on  Princess  Royal  Island,  dis- 
covered the  Investigator's  depot,  and  a  cairn  containing 
information  up  to  June  15th,  1851.  Passing  on,  the 
Enterprise,  on  the  30th  of  August,  reached  the  north 
end  of  the  strait,  but  only  to  bo  foiled  in  any  attempt  to 
pass  beyond  it.  Collinson  now  decided  on  taking  a 
course  exactly  similar  to  that  of  his  more  fortunate  pre- 
decessor, M'Clure  ;  but,  on  the  3d  of  September,  little 
thinking  that  the  Investigator  had  preceded  him  in  his 
intended  course,  he  found,  to  his  surprise,  on  Cape 
Kellett,  a  record  placed  there  on  August  18th.  The  ice 
was  now  too  close  for  him  to  push  on  ;  and,  no  harbor 
fit  for  winter  quarters  offering  itself  as  high  as  latitude 


RETURN   OF  THE   ENTKRIMUSK. 


416 


1  to  allow 
laniard,  to 
can  settlc- 
n  carrying 
irdorcd,  in 
one  of  tho 
t   far   from 
iofly  told  in 
ncxod  note 


abdomen  ;  my 
lotiK  enough  to 
wo  were  iu  our 

medical  advice. 
0  are  murdered. 
N  Barnard." 

the  anguish 
parts  of  it 

the  Enter- 
Prince   of 
Island,  dis- 
[i  containing 
sing  on,  the 
the  north 
attempt  to 
)n  taking  a 
Irtunate  pre- 
Icmber,  little 
Id  him  in  his 
le,  on   Cape 
1th.     The  ice 
1,  no  harbor 
|i  as  latitude 


72"  54'  north,  Collinson  bore  up,  and  eventually  wintered 
his  ship  on  the  caKt(un  side  of  tho  entrance  of  Prince  of 
Wales  Strait.  Thence  he  pursued  his  explorations  in 
the  neighborhoo<l  of  Panks's  Land,  Albert  Land,  Wol- 
laston  Land,  and  Victoria  Land,  concerning  the  geogra- 
phy of  which  he  obtained  mnch  valuable  information. 
At  Cambridge  Bay,  in  Wollaston  Land,  where  the 
Enterprise  passed  the  winter  of  1852-o,  he  saw  in  the 
possession  of  the  Esquimaux  a  piece  of  iron  and  frag- 
ment of  a  doorway,  or  hatch-frame,  which  it  is  thought 
must  have  belonged  to  the  Erebus  or  Terror  ;  but  this 
trace  led  to  no  further  discoveries,  nor  was  anything 
ascertained  in  regard  to  tiie  fate  of  Sir  John  Franklin. 

The  Enterprise  was  absent  longer  than  any  of  the 
otlier  searching  expeditions,  and  was  equally  distin- 
guished by  the  ability,  heroism,  and  endurance,  displayed 
by  her  officers  and  crew  ;  but,  as  their  adventures  are 
similar  to  those  already  related,  we  do  not  think  it 
necessary  to  give  them  in  more  detail.  Long  after  the 
people  of  England  were  assured  of  the  safety  of  M'Clure, 
they  continued  to  feel  anxiety  regarding  the  fate  of 
CoUinson.  But  the  latter  had  the  good  fortune  to 
retrace  his  steps  by  the  way  he  came,  and  brought  his 
ship  and  crew  safely  back  to  England.  In  the  mean 
time,  the  Plover,  the  other  vessel  of  tlie  Pacific  squadron, 
had  also  reached  home  in  safety.  Mr.  Kennedy,  in  the 
Isabel,  who  sailed  in  1853  to  carry  assistance  to  CoUin- 
son, was  shipwrecked  on  the  coast  of  South  America, 
where  his  crew  having  mutinied  and  deserted,  his  voyage 
was  abandoned. 

Shortly  after  the  return  of  Belcher  and  M'Clure,  with 
the  crews  of  their  deserted  ships,  another  note  of  inform- 
ation was  sounded  from  the  Arctic  regie  but  its 
tone  was  very  sad.  The  Montreal  Herald  ■/  October 
21st,  1854,  pubhshed  a  letter  from  Dr.  Rae  to  the  gov- 


jpa*^-     .„, 


t    (i; 


4^t) 


D&.   rUE'S  DISCOVERY. 


enior  of  the  Hudson's  B;iy  Company,  giving-  an  account 
of  the  ox})loration  from  which  he  had  just  returned. 
From  this  letter,  which  was  dated  York  Factory,  4th 
August,  1854,  it  appeared  that  Hae  reached  his  old 
quarters,  at  Ilepulse  Bay,  on  the  15th  of  August,  1853, 
and  there  passed  the  ensuing  winter.  On  the  31st  of 
March,  1S54,  his  spring  journey  commenced.  On  the 
1*1  th  he  reached  Felly  Bay,  whore  he  met  Esquimaux, 
from  whom  he  obtained  several  articles  which  were 
identilied  as  belonging  to  various  members  of  Sir  John 
Franklin's  parly. 

The  possession  (jf  these  articles  by  the  Esquimaux 
was  accounted  for  by  a  story  which  is  related  in  the 
following  extract  from  Dr.  Rae's  journal,  published  soon 
after  his  arrival  in  England  :  "  On  the  morning  of  the 
20th  we  were  met  by  a  very  intelligent  Fsquimaux, 
driving  a  dog-sledge  laden  with  musk-ox  beef.  This 
man  at  once  consented  to  accompany  us  two  days' 
journey,  and  in  a  few  minutes  had  deposited  his  load 
on  the  snow,  and  was  ready  to  join  us.  Having  ex- 
plained to  him  my  object,  he  said  that  the  road  by 
which  he  had  come  was  the  best  for  «us  ;  and,  having 
lightened  the  men's  sledges,  we  travelled  with  more 
facility.  We  were  now  joined  by  another  of  the  natives, 
who  had  been  absent  seal-hunting  yesterday,  but,  being 
anxious  to  see  us,  had  visited  our  snow-house  early  this 
morning,  and  then  followed  up  our  track.  This  man 
was  very  communicative,  and,  on  putting  to  him  the 
usual  questions  as  to  his  having  seen  '  white  man '  be- 
fore, or  any  ships  or  boats,  he  replied  in  the  negative  ; 
but  said  that  a  party  of  '  Ivabloomans  '  had  died  of 
starvation  a  long  distance  to  the  west  of  where  we  then 
were,  and  beyond  a  large  river.  lie  stated  that  he  did 
not  know  the  exaci;  place,  that  he  never  had  been  tliere, 
and  that  he  could  not  accompany  us  so  far.     The  sub- 


RAE'S  DISCOVERY. 


417 


an  account 
!t  returuod. 
factory,  4th 
Lied  his   old 
Ligust,  1853, 
L  the  31st  of 
cd.     On  the 
Esquimaux, 
which  were 
?  of  Sir  John 

)   Esquimaux 
dated  in  the 
Liblislied  soon 
arniiig  of  the 
,   Esquimaux, 
t  beef.     Tiiis 
us  two   days' 
ited  his  load 
Having  ex- 
thc  road  by 
and,  having 
X  with  more 
f  the  natives, 
y,  but,  being 
use  early  this 
This  man 
g  to  him  the 
lite  man '  be- 
lie negative  ; 
had    died  of 
here  we  then 
d  that  he  did 
,d  been  there, 
ir.     The  sub- 


• 


stance  of  the  information  tlion  and  subsequently  obtained 
from  various  sources  was  to  the  following  effect : 

"  In  the  spring,  four  winters  past  (1850),  while  some 
Esquimaux  families  were  kilHng  seals  near  tlie  north 
shore  of  a  large  island,  named  in  Arrowsmith's  charts 
King  William's  Lund,  about  forty  white  men  were  seen 
travelling  in  company  southward  over  the  ice,  and  drag- 
ging a  boat  and  sledges  with  them.  Tliey  were  passing 
along  the  west  shore  of  the  above-named  isUmd.  None 
of  the  party  could  speak  the  Esquimaux  hinguago  so 
well  as  to  be  understood,  but  by  signs  the  natives  were 
led  to  believe  that  tlie  sliip  or  ships  had  been  crushed 
by  ice,  and  that  they  were  now  going  to  whore  they  ex- 
pected to  find  deer  to  shoot.  Erom  the  appearance  of 
the  men  —  all  of  whom,  witli  the  exception  of  an  officer, 
were  hauling  on  the  drag-ropes  of  the  sledge,  and  looked 
thin  —  they  were  then  s^'upposed  to  be  getting  short  of 
provisions  ;  and  they  purchased  a  small  seal,  or  piece  of 
seal,  from  the  natives.  The  ofFicer  was  described  as 
being  a  tall,  stout,  middle-aged  man.  When  their  day's 
journey  terminated,  they  pitched  tents  to  rest  in. 

"  At  a  later  date  the  same  season,  but  previous  to  the 
disruption  of  the  ice,  the  corpses  of  some  tliirty  persons 
and  some  graves  were  discovered  on  the  continent,  and 
five  dead  bodies  on  an  island  near  it,  about  a  long  day's 
journey  to  the  north-west  of  the  mouth  of  a  large  stream, 
which  can  be  no  other  than  Back's  Great  Eish  River 
(named  by  the  Esquimaux  Oot-koo-hi-ca-lik),  as  its  de- 
scription and  that  of  the  low  shore  in  the  neighborhood 
of  Point  Ogle  and  Montreal  Island  agree  exactly  witli 
that  of  Sir  George  Back.  Some  of  the  bodies  Avere  in 
a  tent,  or  tents  ;  others  were  under  the  boat,  wliich  had 
been  turned  over  to  form  a  shelter ;  and  some  lay  scat- 
tered about  in  different  directions.  Of  those  seen  on 
the  island,  it  was  supposed  that  one  was  that  of  an  officer 


!1'   i'  m 


,  » 


' 


■  u' 


J  im 


C   i 


418 


RELICS  OF  FRANKLIN. 


(chief),  as  ho  had  a  telescope  strapped  over  liis  shoul- 
ders, and  a  double-barrelled  gun  lay  underneath  hhn. 

"From  the  mutilated  state  of  many  of  the  bodies, 
and  the  contents  of  the  kettles,  it  is  evident  that  our 
wretched  countrymen  had  been  driven  to  the  dread 
alternative  of  cannibalism  as  a  means  of  snstaining  lii'e. 
A  few  of  the  unfortunate  men  must  have  survived  until 
the  arrival  of  the  wild-fowl  (say  until  the  end  of  May), 
as  shots  were  heard,  and  fresh  bones  and  feathers  of 
geese  were  noticed  near  the  scene  of  the  sad  event. 

"  There  appears  to  have  been  an  abundant  store  of 
ammunition,  as  the  gunpowder  was  emptied  by  the 
natives  in  a  heap  on  the  ground  out  of  the  kegs  or  cases 
containing  it,  and  a  quantitj'^  of  shot  and  ball  was  found 
below  high-water  mark,  having  probably  been  left  on 
the  ice  close  to  the  boach  before  the  spring  commenced. 
There  must  have  boon  a  number  of  telescopes,  guns 
(several  of  them  double-barrelled),  watches,  compasses, 
&c.,  all  of  which  seem  to  liave  been  broken  up,  as  1 
saw  pieces  of  thG>sc  difi'erent  articles  with  the  natives, 
and  I  purchased  as  many  as  possible,  together  with 
some  silver  spoons  and  forks,  an  Order  of  Merit  in  the 
form  of  a  star,  and  a  small  silver  plate  engraved  '  Sir 
John  Franklin,  K.C.B.'^' 

Dr.  Rae  concludes  by  expressing  the  opinion  that  no 
violence  had  been  offered  to  the  sufferers  by  the  natives, 
but  that  they  were  starved  to  death.  The  following  is 
a  list  of  the  articles  obtained  from  the  Esquimaux  : 
One  silver  table-fork  —  crest,  an  animal's  liead  with 
wings  extended  above  ;  three  silver  table-forks  —  crest, 
a  bird  with  wings  extended  ;  one  silver  table-spoon  — 
crest,  wi^h  initials  "  F.  R.  M.  C."  (Captain  Crozier,  Ter- 
ror) ;  one  silver  table-spoon  and  one  fork  —  crest,  bird 
with  laurel-branch  in  mouth,  motto,  "  Spero  meliora ; " 
one  silver  table-spoon,  one  tea-spoon,  and  one  dessert- 


il 


RAE'S  LETTUR  TO   THE  TIMES. 


419 


fork  —  crest,  a  fish's  heud  looking  upwards,  with  hiurel- 
braiiohes  on  each  side  ;  one  silver  table-fork  • —  initials, 
"  11.  D.  S.  G."  (Harry  D.  S.  Goudsir,  assistant-siirg-con, 
Erebus);  one  silver  table-fork  —  initials,  "A.  M'D." 
(Alexander  M'Uonald,  assistant-surgeon.  Terror)  ;  one 
silvxu-  table-fork  —  initials,  "  G.  A.  M."  (Gillies  A. Mac- 
bean,  second  master.  Terror)  ;  one  silver  table-fork  — 
initials,  "J,  T.  ;  "  one  silver  dessert-spoon  —  initials, 
"  J.  S.  P."  (John  S.  Peddie,  surgeon,  Erebus)  ;  around 
silver  plate,  engraved,  "Sir  John  Franklin,  K.C.B.;"  a 
star  or  order,  with  motto,  "  Ncc  aftpera  ierr'ent,  G.  R.  III. 
MDCCCXV." 

On  obtaining  the  above  information.  Dr.  Rac  instantly 
hastened  to  England,  for  the  purpose  of  preventing  any 
further  expeditions  being  despatched  in  search  of  the 
lost  navigators.  Ilis  report,  as  nn'ght  have  been  ex- 
pected, was  subjc:  tod  on  all  hands  to  criticism  and  com- 
ment. Many  were  of  opinion  that  the  information  ob- 
tained did  not  warrant  the  conclusion  that  the  whole 
party  was  lost.  Some  of  the  criticisms  made  on  his 
report  induced  Dr.  Rue  lo  take  up  the  pen  in  self-defence  ; 
and  in  a  letter  which  he  addressed  to  the  editor  of  the 
London  Times  we  find  the  following  remarks,  which 
come  with  grea,t  weight  from  one  who,  of  all  others,  is 
most  competent  to  speak  authoritatively.  They  were 
written  in.  reply  to  an  attack  made  upon  hitn  l)y  a  gen- 
tleman who  had  a  relative  with  the  lost  expedition,  and 
serve  to  show  how  difficult  it  is  to  form  a  correct  judg- 
ment on  subjects  of  which  we  have  not  had  personal 
experience. 

"It  is  asked  by  your  correspondent,"  says  Dr.  Rae, 
"  '  where  Esquiniaux  can  live,  where  Dr.  Rac's  party 
could  find  abundant  means,  what  should  prevent  Sir 
John  Franklin  and  his  party  from  subsisting  too  ?  ' 

"  No  man  but  one  perfectly  unacquainted  with  the 


I 


420 


RAE'S  LETTER  '!'<,►   'Uiti   THiES. 


hi 


i  ? 


t  i  m 


>  i 


subject  could  ask  such  a  quf^tion,  Af  the  season  when 
Sir  John  Franklin's  party  was  seen  travelling  over  the 
ice,  the  seal-holes  are  covered  by  snow,  and  can  only  be 
discovered  by  the  acute  sense  of  smell  of  the  native 
dop^s  ;  and,  after  the  seal-hole  is  discovered,  much  pa- 
tience, experience,  and  care,  are  requisite  to  kill  the  seal. 
As  soon  as  the  snow  thaws  (say  i.i  June)  the  seals 
show  themselves  on  the  ice  ;  but  they  are  ihen  so  dif- 
ficult of  approach  that  not  one  of  my  men  (Ouligbuck, 
the  interpreter,  excepted),  although  they  often  made 
the  att(impt,  could  approach  near  enough  to  shoot  any 
of  these  animals. 

"  I  wintered  at  a  part  of  the  Arctic  coast  remarkable 
by  its  geographical  ft)rmation  for  the  abundance  of  deer 
during  the  autunni  migrations,  but  only  then  ;  and  it 
was  at  that  time  that  we  laid  up  our  winter  stock  of 
food;  but  il  was  hard  work  even  for  us  (all  practised 
sportsmen, |)icked  men,  and  iu  full  strength  and  train- 
ing) to  collect  a  sufficiency. 

"That  portion  of  country  ncta'  to  and  on  which  a 
portion  of  Sir  John  Franklin's  party  was  seen  is,  in  the 
spring,  notoriously  the  most  barren  of  animal  life  of  any 
of  the  Ar^ ;  ..  hores  ;  and  the  few  deer  that  may  be  seen 
are  generi^^iy  /er}'  shy,  from  having  been  hunted  during 
the  winter  by  Indians,  on  the  borders  of  the  woodlands. 
To  prove  this  scarcity  of  game,  I  may  add,  that  during 
my  spring  journey  of  fifty-six  days'  duration,  one  deer 
only  and  a  few  partridges  were  shot  by  us, 

"  It  is  asked  by  your  correspondent,  '  Why  the  un- 
fortunate men  should  have  encumbered  themselves  'with 
silver  forks  and  spoons  and  silver  plates  ?  '  &c.  The 
total  weight  of  the  silver  forks  and  spoons  could  not  be 
more  than  four  or  five  pounds  at  the  utmost,  and  would 
not  appear  much  when  divided  among  forty  persons  ; 
and  any  officer  who  has  ever  had  the  misfortune  to 


KAE'S  LETTER  TO  TITE  TIMES. 


abandon  his  ship  or  boat  anywhere,  but  mom  ]  av ocu- 
larly in  the  Arctic  sea,  knows  how  apt  men  arj  .(  oa 
cumber  themselves  with  articles  far  more  usele^v.  end 
bulky  than  a  few  forks  and  spoons.  I  sui)pose,  by  '  Ml- 
ver  plates,'  your  correspondent  alludes  to  the  silver 
plate  with  Sir  John  Franklin's  name  engraved  thereon, 
an.l  which  may  possibly  weigh  half  an  ounce,  —  no  great 
addition  to  a  man's  load. 

"Again,  your  correspondent  says,   'that  the  ships 
have  been  abandoned,  and  pillaged  by  the  Esquimaux.' 
In  this  opinion   I  perfectly  agree  so  far  as  regards  the 
abandoimient  of  the  ships,  but  not  that  these  ships  were 
pillaged  by  the  natives.     Had  this  been  the  case,  wood 
would  have  been   abundant  among  thcoe  poor  people. 
It  was  not  so,  and  they  were  reduced  to  the  necessity 
of  making  their  sledges    of  musk-ox  skins    folded  up 
and  frozen  together,  —  an  alternative  to  which  the  want 
of  wood   alone   could   have    reduced    them.      Ani-ther 
proof  tliat  the  natives  had  very  little  wood  among  them 
may  be  adduced.     Before  leaving  Repulse   Bay,  T  col- 
lected together  some  of  the   most  respeoidble  (^'l  the 
old  Esquimaux,   and   distributed   among   v,<.mi  iiil  the 
wood  we  could  spare,  amounting  to  two  ta-  three  oars 
and  some  broken   poles.     When  these  thhigs  vere  de- 
livered to  them,  I  bade  the  Esquimaux  interpretei,  who 
speaks  both  his  own  and  the  English  language  fbiently, 
to  ask  whether  they  or  their  acquaintances  near  Felly 
I'ay  liad  now  most  wood.    They  all  immediately  shouted 
out,  holding  up  their  liands,  that  they  theniselvos  had 
most.     I  need  scarcely  add  that,  had  the  sliips  been 
found  by  the  Esquimaux,  a  stock  of  wood  sulhcient  for 
many  years   for   all   the    natives  within   an   extent  of 
several  hundred  riiiles  would  have  been  obtained." 

From  all  this  it  will  bo  seen  that  the  evidence  of  Dr. 
Rac  went  to  show  that  the  fute  of  thirty-five  men  of  the 

36 


t' 


ir  1 


sit 


'« 


422 


ANDERSON'S  JOURNEY. 


expedition  had  been  but  too  surely  ascertained  ;  but 
there  wore  yet  one  hundred  and  throe  to  be  accounted 
for.  No  one,  familiar  with  the  hiscory  of  Arctic  dis- 
covery, could  entertain  much  hope  of  ever  seeing  the 
gallant  crews  of  the  Erebus  and  Terror  alive ;  but  there 
was  every  reason  to  believe  that  the  t7'a,il  had  been  at 
last  struck,  and  that  in  a  short  time  we  should  have  the 
melancholy  satisfaction  of  at  least  knowing  how-,  when, 
and  where,  they  perished.  For  the  purpose  of  ascer- 
taining this,  of  obtaining  the  papers  of  the  lost  ships, 
and  of  burying  the  remains  of  their  crews,  if  they  should 
be  found,  the  British  government  resolved  to  send  out 
a  land  expedition  to  follow  up  the  search  of  Dr.  Rae. 

A  party  was  accordingly  organized  in  the  summer  of 
1855,  and  placed  under  the  command  of  Mr.  James 
Anderson,  chief  factor  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  ; 
Dr.  Rae,  to  whom  the  command  was  first  offered,  hav- 
ing declin'^d  it,  on  account  of  ill-health.  Anderson's 
expedition  started  from  Fort  Resolution  on  the  22d  of 
June,  1855,  and  commenced  the  descent  of  the  Great 
Fish  River  in  three  canoes.  They  were  unaccompanied 
by  any  interpreter.  On  the  30th  of  July,  at  the  rapids 
below  Lake  Franklin,  three  Esquimaux  lodges  were 
seen,  and  numerous  articles,  belonging  to  a  boat-equi- 
page, were  there  found  —  such  as  tent-poles,  paddles, 
copper  and  sheet-iron  boilers,  tin  soup-tureens,  chis- 
els, and  tools  of  various  kinds.  The  occupants  of  the 
lodges,  all  but  one  of  whom  were  women,  said  (by 
words  and  signs)  that  these  things  were  obtained  from 
a  boat,  and  that  the  white  men  belonging  to  it  had 
died  of  starvation. 

Pushing  on  again,  the  party  reached  Point  Beaufort, 
and  at  last  Montreal  Island.  There  they  found  some 
chain-hooks,  tools,  rope,  bunting,  and  a  number  of 
sticks  strung  together    on  one  of  which  was  cut  tho 


ANDERSON'S  JOURNEY, 


423 


name  of  "  Mr.  Stanley"  (surg-oon  of  the  Erobus)  ;  also 
chips,  shavings,  ends  of  plank,  etc.,  apparently  sawed 
by  unskilful  liands.  On  one  the  word  "Terror"  was 
carved.  It  was  evident  to  Mr.  Anderson  that  this  was 
the  spot  where  the  boat  was  cut  up  by  the  Esquimaux  ; 
but  not  a  vestige  of  human  remains  could  be  discov- 
ered, or  a  scrap  of  paper.  Point  Ogle  was  next  exam- 
iiied,  and  small  articles  of  a  similar  character  were  also 
found  there  ;  but  with  no  other  result. 

On  the  8th  of  August,  1855,  the  party  began  to  re- 
trace their  steps,  having  seen  no  Esquimaux,  except  the 
few  at  the  rapids  before  mentioned,  and  having  been 
unable  to  reach  King  William's  Land. 

This  information  was  received  in  England  early  in 
1856,  and  is  confirmatory  of  Eae's  supposition  that  the 
Great  Fish  was  the  river  on  which  the  party  he  heard 
of  had  retreated  ;  but,  so  far  as  the  particulars  of  their 
fate  is  concerned,  it  leaves  the  whole  matter  as  much 
involved  in  mystery  as  ever. 


illr'  m;-  . 


i 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


SKCOND   GRINNELL   EXPEDITION.  —  DR.    KAVe'S   PLAN.  —  DEPARTURE.  —  I.V 

THE    ICE.  SEARCH    FOR   A    'lAIlBOR. FROZEN    IN. TE.MPKRATURE.  

INCIDENTS.  LOSS     OP     DOGS.  DISASTROUS     SLEDGING-PARTY.  — THE 

RESCUE.  MEETING    AVITH     ESQUIMAUX.  DISCOVERIES.  —  ATTEMPT    TO 

REACH    BELCIIKR's    SQUADRON.  ANOTHER     WINTER.    PRIVATION    AND 

PERIL.  —  ABANDONMENT    OF   THE    VESSEL.  FARKWELL   TO     THE    ESQUI- 
MAUX.    IN    SAFETY.  REPORT   TO    NAVV     DEPARTMENT.    THE    OPEN 

POLAR  SEA. —  CHARACTER  OF  DR.  KANE'S  ADVENTURES. — HIS  PUBLISHED 
NARRATIVE. 


M 


m 

I  I  4 

•1  hi 


,«] 


m 


The  expedition  under  the  command  of  Dr.  Kane 
sailed  from  New  York  on  the  30th  of  May,  1853.  It 
consisted  of  eighteen  chosen  men,  besides  the  com- 
mander, embarked  in  a  small  brig  of  one  hundred  and 
forty-four  tons  burden,  named  the  Advance,  which  was 
furnished  by  Mr.  Grinnell,  other  expenses  being  con- 
tributed by  Mr.  Peabody  ai)d  several  generous  indi- 
viduals and  societies.  Dr.  Kane's  predetermined  course 
was  to  enter  the  strait  discovere  I  the  previous  year 
by  Captain  Inglefield,  at  the  top  of  Baffin's  Bay,  and 
to  push  as  far  northward  through  it  as  practicable.  lie 
engaged  the  services  of  a  native  Esquimaux,  of  the 
name  of  Hans  Christensen,  at  Fiskernaes,  in  Greenland, 
and  then  crossed  Melville  Bav  in  the  wake  of  the  vast 
icebergs  with  which  the  sea  is  there  strewn.  These 
huge  frozen  masses  are  often  driven  one  way  by  a  deep 
current,  while  the  floes  aie  drifted  in  another  by  winds 
and  surface-streams,  disruptions  being  thus  necessarily 
caused  in  the  vast  ice-fields.     The  doctor's  tactics  wera 


!PAnTtinB.  —  i^ 

K.Ml'KRATUBE.  

(i-l'AUTY.  THE 

.  ATTEMPT    TO 

.  I'lUVATlON  ANB 
,  TO  THE  ESQUI- 
NT.  — ■  THE  OPEK 
—  HIS  PUBLISHED 

of  Dr.   Kane 
ay,  1853.     It 
es   the    com- 
liundred  and 
,  which  was 
Is  being  con- 
nerous   indi- 
Imined  course 
|revious  year 
's  Bay,  and 
iticablc.     lie 
naux,  of  the 
|n  Greenland, 
of  the  vast 
lewn.     These 
lay  by  a  deep 
jier  by  winds 
necessarily 
tactics  \ver(i 


DR.   KANE'S  EXPEDITION. 


425 


to  dodge  about  in  the  rear  of  those  floating  ice-moun- 
tains, holding  upon  them  whenever  adverse  winds  were 
troublesome,  and  pressing  forward  whenever  an  oppor- 
tunity occurred. 

Dr.  Kane's  plan  was  based  upon  the  probable  exten- 
pion  of  tlie  land-masses  of  Greenland  to  the  far  north  — 
a  fact  at  tliat  time  not  verified  by  travel,  but  sustained 
by  the  analogies  of  physical  geograpliy.  Greenland, 
though  looked  upon  as  a  congeries  of  islands  comiected 
by  interior  glaciers,  was  still  regarded  as  a  peninsula, 
whose  formation  recognized  the  same  laws  as  other 
peninsulas  having  a  southern  trend. 

Believing  in  the  extension  of  this  peninsula  nearer  to 
the  pole  than  any  other  known  kind,  and  feeling  that 
the  search  for  Sir  John  Franklin  would  be  best  promoted 
by  a  course  that  might  lead  most  directly  to  the  sup- 
posed northerly  open  sea,  Dr.  Kane  advanced,  as  in- 
ducements in  favor  of  his  scheme  :  Terra  Firma  as  the 
basis  of  his  operations  ;  a  due  northern  line  which  would 
lead  soonest  to  the  open  sea  ;  the  benefit  of  northern 
land  to  :heck  the  southern  drift  of  ice  :  the  presumed 
existence  of  animal  life  ;  a  id  the  cooperation  of  Esqui- 
maux, whose  settlements  W3re  supposed  to  extend  far  up 
the  coast. 

The  good  whip  Advance  entered  the  harbor  of  Fisker- 
naes,  on  the  1st  of  July,  "  amid  the  clamor  of  its  entire 
population  assembled  on  the  rocks  to  greet  us."  On  the 
16th  of  July  she  passed  the  promontory  of  Swartehuk, 
or  Blackhead  ;  and,  on  the  2Tth,  Wilcox  Point ;  icebergs 
showing  themselves  on  all  sides,  and  rendering  the  nav- 
igation of  Melville  Bay  full  of  danger.  On  the  iid  of 
August  they  were  fairly  in  the  ice,  and  beset  by  fogs. 
It  was  only  at  times  that  the  floes  opened  sufficiently 
to  allow  the  ship  to  make  her  way  through  them.  At 
hiiduight  of  the  3d,  however,  they  got  clear  of  the  bay 

80* 


in 


426 


DR.   KANE'S   EXPEDITION. 


-    I 


'•i  \ 


uii(i  of  its  diflioulties,  Dr.  Kane  taking-  credit  to  himself 
for  liaviii)]^  ('flectod  this  by  an  outside  passage. 

The  North  VV^atcr,  the  hij^-livvay  to  Smith's  Sound, 
was  now  fairly  before  them.  On  the  5th  tiiey  passed 
Sir  John  Ross's  "  Crimson  Cliffs, "  and  tlie  patches  of 
red  snow  could  bo  seen  clearly  at  the  distance  of  ten 
miles  from  the  coast :  and  on  the  7th  they  d^jubled  Cape 
Alexander  —  the  Arctic  pillars  of  Hercules  —  and 
passed  into  Smith's  Sound.  Arrivin<;^  at  Littleton 
Island,  they  deposited  there  a  boat  with  a  supply  of 
stores,  not  far  from  the  vestiges  of  an  old  Esquimaux 
settlement. 

On  the  8tli  they  again  closed  with  the  ice,  and  were 
forced  into  a  land-locked  cove.  The  dogs,  of  which 
they  had  more  than  fifty  on  board,  began  to  be  very 
troublesome  ;  they  would  devour  almost  everything  that 
came  in  their  way,  from  an  Esquimaux  cranium  to  a 
whole  feather-bed  !  The  men  tried  to  shoot  some  wal- 
ruses, but  the  rifle-balls  rebounded  from  their  hides  like 
pebbles  ;  and  it  was  only  by  accident  that  they  found 
the  carcass  of  a  narwhal,  with  which  to  appease  the 
poor  dogs  for  a  time. 

All  attempts  to  work  the  vessel  seaward  through  the 
floes  proving  unsuccessful,  it  was  resolved  to  try  for  a  fur- 
ther northing  by  following  the  coast-line.  But,  although 
even  warping  was  had  recourse  to,  this  also  was  followed 
by  but  very  trifling  success.  On  midnight  of  the  14th 
they  reached  the  lee  side  of  a  rocky  island,  which,  from 
the  shelter  it  afforded,  was  designated  "  Godsend  Ledge." 
It  was,  however,  destined  to  be  so  but  a  short  time. 
On  the  20th  it  came  on  to  blow  a  hurricane  ;  the  haw- 
sers parted  one  after  the  other,  and  the  ship  was  left  at 
the  mercy  of  the  winds,  waves,  and  ice,  combined.  It 
was  a  most  trying  time,  and  the  party  underwent  many 
])orils  ere  they  found  +*^mporary  shelter  beyond  a  lofty 


DR.   KANE'S  EXPEDITION. 


427 


cape,  and  under  an  iceberg'  that  anchored  itself  between 
them  and  th(j  gale. 

The  point  to  which  they  were  thus  unceremoniously 
driven  was  ten  miles  nearer  the  pole  than  Godsend 
Lodge  ;  and  on  the  22d,  the  storm  having  abated,  the 
men  were  harnessed  to  the  tow-lines,  and  tliey  began  to 
track  along  the  ice-belt  ofl'  the  coast,  warping  also  at 


1HA(  K1.N(;    AI.ONU    TIIIO    KIO-UKI.T. 

times,  but  witli  so  litllo  cfloct  that,  on  the  29th,  Dr. 
Kane  rushed  on  ahen<l  with  a  small  boating-party  for  a 
personal  inspection  of  the  coast.  After  twenty-four 
hours'  toil,  the  boat  had  to  be  exchanged  for  a  sledge, 
with  which  they  also  got  on  but  slowly,  passing  Glacier 
Bay,  Mary  Minturn  River,  —  the  largest  known  in 
North  Greenland,  being  about  three  fourths  of  a  mile 
wide  at  its  mouth  —  Capes  Thackeray  and  Francis 
Ilawkes,  to  Cape  George  Russell,  from  whence  could  be 
seen  the  great  glacier  of  Humboldt,  Cape  Jackson  on 
the  one  sic'  >,  and  Cape  Barrow  on  the  other,  and  be- 
tween them  a  solid  sea  of  ice. 

The  gallant  captain  returned  satisfied  that  he  had 
seen  no  place  combining  so  many  of  the  requisites  of  a 
good  winter  harbor  as  the  bay  in  which  he  had  left  the 
Advance.  So  he  gave  the  orders  to  warp  in  between 
two  islands.     They  found  seven  fathom  soundings,  and 


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428 


DR.    KANE'S  EXPEDITION. 


y;!^i 


a  perlbct  slieltor  i'roiu  tlio  outKido  ice  ;  and  tlius  the  lit- 
tle brig  wiiH  laid  up  in  Van  Itonssolacr  Harbor,  near  a 
group  ol'  rock}'  islets,  in  the  sontli-eastcrn  curve  of  a 
bay,  whore  she  was  iio/cu  in  on  Soi)t('nd)or  10th. 

An  observatory  was  (erected  adjacent  to  the  ship,  and 
a  thermal  regislcrwas  kept  hourly.  The  mean  annual 
temperature  at  this  spot  appears  to  be  two  degrees 
lower  than  that  of  Melville  Island,  according  to  Parry. 
The  lowest  temperature  was  observed  in  February,  when 
the  mean  of  eight  instruments  gave  seventy  degrees 
Fahrenheit.  Chloroform  froze,  essential  oils  became 
partly  solid  and  licpiid,  and,  on  February  24th,  chloric 
ether  was  congealed  for  the  first  time  by  natural  tem- 
I)er!iture.  For  astronomical  observations,  a  transit  and 
theodolite  were  mounted  on  stone  pedestals,  cemented 
by  ice.  The  longitude  was  based  on  moon  culminations, 
corroborated  by  oceultatioiis  of  planets,  and  the  solar 
eclipse  of  May,  1855.  The  position  of  the  observatory 
was  found  to  be  in  lat.  1S°  SY,  and  long.  70°  40'  6". 
Magnetic  observations,  both  absolute  and  relative,  were 
also  kept  up. 

An  excursion  was  made  ninety  miles  into  the  interior, 
when  its  further  prog'css  was  arrested  by  a  glacier  four 
hundred  feet  high,  and  extending  north  and  west  as  far 
as  the  eye  could  reach.  As  to  the  sledging  outfit,  they 
kept  on  reducing  it,  until  at  last  they  came  to  the  Esqui- 
maux ultimatum  of  simplicity  —  raw  meat  and  a  fur 
bag.  For  the  time  being,  a  man  thus  becomes  a  mere 
animal,  only  with  another  animal's  skin  for  a  cover. 

Parties  were  organized  for  establishing  provision 
ddp6ts  to  facilitate  researches  in  the  spring,  and  more 
than  eight  hundred  miles  were  traversed.  The  Green- 
land coast  was  traced  for  one  hundred  and  twenty-five 
miles  to  the  north  and  east,  and  the  largest  of  the  three 
d'^pots  along  the  coast  was  formed  on  an  island  in  lat. 


DR.   KANE'S  EXPEDITION. 


429 


10"  12'  G",  and  l()n^^  0,^)°  25'.  DjirknoHs  ancstod  these 
pi'occodiiif^H  on  Novond)or  20tli,  and  tlio  ruii  contiiiuod 
one  hun<lnMl  and  twcMity  days  bolow  t\w  hori/on. 

One  of  the  iirsi  incidcntH  that  occurred  wan  settiiip^ 
the  ship  on  fire  in  an  attempt  U)  exterminate!  the  rats 
with  carbonic-acid  g-as.  It  ended  in  nearly  aHidiyxiatiii}^* 
the  commander  and  twf)  or  three  others.  The  next  inci- 
dent was  one  of  tiie  doji^s  goinn;-  rabid  —  a  phenonuMion 
usually  snpposed  to  be  associated  with  tiie  heats  of 
Bummcr.  (Jreat  inconv(Miience  was  experienced  in  the 
sledge-excursions,  and  in  making  "  cacdies  "  of  provi- 
sions in  this  region,  from  the  ire(pient  ice-cracks,  or  cre- 
vasses, as  the  Swiss  would  c;ull  them,  and  into  which 
dogs,  sledges,  and  travellers,  were  sometimes  tumbled,  at 
the  imminent  risk  of  being  carried  below  the  ice  by  the 
current  —  not  to  mention  the  danger  to  health  f)l' an  im- 
mersion with  the  thermometer  many  degrees  below  zero. 

The  point  at  which  the  party  were  wintering,  it  is  to 
be  observed,  was  in  a  higher  latitude  than  the  wintering- 
stations  in  the  Arctic  archipelago  ;  and,  except  on  Spit/- 
bergcn,  no  Christians  are  known  to  have  passed  a  win- 
ter so  near  to  the  pole.  The  darkness  was  so  intense 
that  it  necessarily  entailed  inaction  ;  and  it  was  in  vain 
that  they  sought  to  create  topics  of  thought,  and,  by  a 
forced  excitement,  to  ward  off  the  encroachments  of  dis- 
ease. The  thermometer  fell  to  ninety-nine  degrees  below 
freezing  point.  Human  beings  covdd  only  breathe  in 
such  a  temperature  guardedly,  and  with  compressed  lips. 

The  influence  of  such  severe  cold  and  long  intense 
darkness  was  most  depressing.  Most  of  the  dogs  died 
of  affections  of  the  brain,  which  began,  as  in  the  in- 
stance of  some  of  the  men  of  the  Investigator,  with  fits, 
followed  by  lunacy,  and  sometimes  by  lock-jaw.  Their 
disease.  Dr.  Kane  remarks,  was  as  clearly  mental  as  in 
the  case  of  any  human  being.     Fifty-seven  died  with 


430 


DR.   KANE'S  EXPEDITION. 


if:?' 


these  symptoms.  The  loss  of  his  dogs  seriously  affected 
Dr.  Kane's  plans  ;  now  arrangements  had  to  be  formed, 
which,  owing  to  the  smallness  of  the  party,  deprived 


DOG-SLEDGE. 

of  the  dogs,  were  necessarily  restricted.  The  addition 
of  four  dogs,  contributed  by  Esquimaux,  permitted 
the  operations  to  be  considerably  extended.  Out  of 
nearly  three  thousand  miles  traversed,  no  less  than 
eleven  hundred  were  made  with  the  dog-sledge ;  and 
during  the  following  year  Dr.  Kane  himself  travelled 
fourteen  hundred  miles  with  a  single  team. 

The  month  of  March  brought  back  perpetual  day.  The 
sunshine  had  reached  the  ship  on  the  last  day  of  Febru- 
ary ;  they  needed  it  to  cheer  them.  The  scurvy  spots 
that  mottled  the  faces  of  almost  all  gave  sore  proof  of 
the  trials  they  had  undergone.  The  crew  were  now 
(March,  1854)  almost  unfitted  by  debility  for  arduous 
work,  and  only  sir  dogs  remained  of  nine  splendid  New- 
foundlanders and  thirty-five  Esquimaux  dogs.  "  An  Arc- 
tic night  and  an  Arctic  day,"  Dr.  Kane  emphatically  re- 
marks, "  age  a  man  more  rapidly  and  harshly  than  a  year 
anywhere  else  in  all  this  weary  world."  Sometimes,  in 
their  excursions  over  the  ice,  the  men  had  to  drag  the 
sledge,  and  flounder  through  snow-drifts  in  which  they 
sank  at  every  step  nearly  over  their  legs. 


DR.   KANE'S  EXPEDITION. 


431 


,Jf*v- • 


SLEDGF.-l'ARTY. 


In  order  to  ascertain  whether  it  were  practicable  to 
force  a  way  over  the  crowded  bergs  and  monntainous 
ice  of  the  frozen  area  toward  the  north,  Dr.  Ivane  now 
organized  a  party  of  the  strongest  men,  who  volunteered 
their  services  for  the  hibor,  phicing  himself  at  tlieir  head  ; 
and,  on  the  19th  of  March,  sent  out  an  advanced  corps 
to  place  a  relief  cargo  of  provisions  at  a  suitable  dis- 
tance from  the  brig.  On  the  ninth  day  of  their  absence 
^'^e  latter  encountered  a  heavy  gale  from  the  north-east ; 
the  thermometer  fell  to  fifty-seven  degrees  below  zero, 
and  the  ice-ridges  became  so  obstructed  by  snow  as  to 
prevent  their  depositing  their  stores  beyond  fifty  miles 
from  the  brig,  ..  ,^ 

By  the  31st  three  of  the  members  of  this  advance 
party  returned  to  the  brig,  swollen,  haggard,  and  hardly 
able  to  speak.  They  had  left  four  of  their  number  in  a 
tent  on  the  ice,  frozen  and  disabled.  On  being  informed 
of  the  disaster.  Dr.  Kane  started  for  the  rescue  with 
nine  men,  under  the  direction  of  Mr.  Ohlsen,  one  of  the 
returned  party,  whose  previous  exposure,  however,  had 
rendered  his  services  as  a  guide  almost  useless.  We 
will  here  quote  the  commander's  own  graphic  words  : 

"  We  had  been  nearly  eighteen  hours  out  without 


432 


DR.  KANE'S  EXPEDITION. 


hi 


water  or  food,  when  a  new  hope  cheered  us.  I  think 
it  was  Hans,  our  Esquimaux  hunter,  who  thought  he 
saw  a  broad  sledge-track.  The  drift  had  nearly  effaced 
it,  and  we  were  some  of  us  doubtful  at  first  whether  it 
was  not  one  of  those  accidental  rifts  which  the  gales 
make  in  the  surface-snow.  But,  as  we  traced  it  on  to 
the  deep  snow  among  the  hummocks,  we  were  led  to 
footsteps  ;  and,  following  these  with  religious  care,  we 
at  last  came  in  sight  of  a  small  American  flag  fluttering 
from  a  hummock,  and  lower  down  a  little  Masonic  ban- 
ner hanging  from  a  tent-pole  ha^'dly  above  tlie  drift.  It 
was  the  camp  of  our  disabled  comrades  :  we  reached  it 
after  an  unbroken  march  of  twenty-one  hours. 

"  The  little  tent  was  nearly  covered.  I  was  not 
among  the  first  to  come  up ;  but,  when  I  reached  the 
tent-curtain,  the  men  were  standing  in  silent  file  on  each 
side  of  it.  With  more  kindness  and  delicacy  of  feeling 
than  is  often  supposed  to  belong  to  sailors,  but  which  is 
almost  characteristic,  they  intimated  their  wish  that  I 
should  go  in  alone.  As  I  crawled  in,  and,  coming  upon 
the  darkness,  heard  before  me  the  burst  of  welcome 
gladness  that  came  from  the  four  poor  fellows  stretched 
on  their  backs,  and  then  for  the  first  time  the  cheer  out- 
side, my  weakness  and  my  gratitude  together  almost 
overcame  me.  '  They  had  expected  me  ;  they  were  sure 
I  would  come  1 '  " 

We  copy  entire  Dr.  Kane's  spirited  account  of  the 
retreat  of  the  party,  now  consisting  of  fifteen  souls  : 

"  It  was  fortunate  indeed  that  we  were  not  inexpe- 
rienced in  sledging  over  the  ice.  A  great  part  of  our 
track  lay  among  a  succession  of  hummocks  ;  some  of 
them  extvinded  in  long  lines  fifteen  and  twenty  feet  high, 
and  so  uniformly  steep  that  we  had  to  turn  them  by  a 
considerable  deviation  from  our  direct  course ;  others 
that  we  forced  our  way  through,  far  above  our  heads  in 


<*. 


DR.  KANE'S  EXPEDITION. 


433 


;.     1  think 
bought  he 
rly  effaced 
whether  it 
1  the  gales 
;cd  it  on  to 
were  led  to 
IS  care,  we 
^g  fluttering 
[asonic  ban- 
he  drift.     It 
e  reached  it 

rs. 
I  was  not 
reached  the 

t  file  on  each 

tcy  of  feeling 

but  which  is 

wish  that  I 

[coming  upon 
of  welcome 
[ws  stretched 
[he  cheer  out- 
[ether  almost 
ley  were  sure 

Icount  of  the 
3en  souls : 
le  not  inexpe- 
It  part  of  our 
cs  ;  some  of 
jity  feet  high, 
Iru  them  by  a 
\m'Sii]  others 
our  heads  in 


height;  lying  in  parallel  ridges,  with  the  space  between 
too  narrow  for  the  sledge  to  be  lowered  into  it  safely, 
and  yet  not  wide  enough  for  the  runners  to  cross  with- 
out the  aid  of  ropes  to  stay  them.  These  spaces  too 
were  generally  choked  with  light  snow,  hiding  the 
openings  between  the  ice-fragments.  They  were  fear- 
ful traps  to  disengage  a  limb  from ;  for  every  man  knew 
that  a  fracture,  or  a  sprain  even,  would  cost  him  his  life. 
Besides  all  this,  the  sledge  was  top-lieavy  with  its  load  : 
the  maimed  men  could  not  bear  to  be  lashed  down  tiglit 
enough  to  secure  them  against  falling  off.  Notwith- 
standing our  caution  in  rejecting  every  superfluous  bur- 
den, the  weight,  including  bags  and  tent,  was  eleven 
hundred  pounds. 

"  And  yet  our  march  for  the  first  six  hours  was  very 
cheering.  We  made,  by  vigorous  pulls  and  lifts,  nearly 
a  mile  an  hour,  and  reached  the  new  floes  before  we 
were  absolutely  weary.  Our  sledge  sustained  the  trial 
admirably.  Ohlsen,  restored  by  hope,  walked  steadily 
at  the  leading-belt  of  the  sledge-lines  ;  and  I  began  to 
feel  certain  of  reaching  our  half-way  station  of  the  day 
before,  where  we  had  left  our  tent.  But  we  were  still 
nine  miles  from  it,  when,  almost  without  premonition,  we 
all  became  aware  of  an  alarming  failure  of  our  energies. 

"  I  was  of  course  familiar  with  the  benumbed  and 
almost  lethargic  sensation  of  extreme  cold :  and  once, 
when  exposed  for  some  hours  in  the  midwinter  of  Baf- 
fin's Bay,  I  had  experienced  symptoms  which  I  com- 
pared to  the  diffused  paralysis  of  the  electro-galvanic 
shock.  But  I  had  treated  the  sleepy  comfort  of  freezing 
as  something  like  the  embellishment  of  romance.  I 
had  evidence  now  to  the  contrary. 

"  Bonsall  and  Morton,  two  of  our  stoutest  men,  came 
to  me,  begging  permission  to  sleep  ;  '  they  were  not 
cold  :  the  wind  did  not  enter  them  now  :  a  little  sleep 

at 


434 


DR.   KANE'S  EXPEDITION. 


was  all  they  wanted.'  Presently  Ilans  was  found  nearly 
stift'  under  a  drift ;  and  Thomas,  bolt  upright,  had  his 
eyes  closed,  and  couhl  hardly  articulate.  At  last,  John 
Blake  threw  himself  on  the  snow,  and  refused  to  rise. 
They  did  not  complain  of  feeling  cold  ;  but  it  was  in 
vain  that  I  wrestled,  boxed,  run,  argued,  jeered,  or 
reprimanded  :  an  immediate  halt  could  not  be  avoided. 

"  We  pitched  our  tent  with  much  difficulty.  Our 
hands  were  too  powerless  to  strike  a  lire  :  we  were 
obliged  to  do  without  water  or  food.  Even  the  spirits 
(whiskey)  had  frozen  at  the  men's  feet,  under  all  the 
coverings.  We  put  Bonsall,  Ohlsen,  Thomas,  and 
Hans,  with  the  other  sick  men,  well  inside  the  tent,  and 
crowded  in  as  many  others  as  we  could.  Then,  leaving 
the  party  in  charge  of  Mr.  McGary,  with  orders  to  come 
on  after  four  hours'  rest,  I  pushed  ahead  with  William 
Godfrey,  who  volunteered  to  be  my  companion.  My 
aim  was  to  reach  the  half-way  tent,  and  thaw  some  ice 
and  pemmican  before  the  others  arrived. 

"  The  floe  was  level  ice,  and  the  walking  excellent. 
I  cannot  tell  how  long  it  took  us  to  make  the  nine  miles  ; 
for  we  were  in  a  strange  sort  of  stupor,  and  had  little 
apprehension  of  time.  It  was  probably  about  four 
hours.  We  kept  ourselves  awake  by  imposing  on  each 
other  a  continued  articulation  of  words  ;  they  must  ha\e 
been  incoherent  enough.  I  recall  these  hours  as  among 
the  most  wretched  I  have  ever  gone  through :  we  were 
neither  of  us  in  our  right  senses,  and  retained  a  very 
confused  recollection  of  what  preceded  our  arrival  at 
the  tent.  We  both  of  us,  however,  remember  a  bear, 
who  walked  leisurely  before  us,  and  tore  up  as  he  went 
a  jumper  that  Mr.  McGary  had  improvidently  thrown 
off  the  day  before.  He  tore  it  into  shreds  and  rolled  it 
into  a  ball,  but  never  offered  to  interfere  with  our  prog- 
ress.    I  remember  this,  and  with  it  a  confused  senti- 


/; 


DR.   KANE'S   EXPEDITION. 


435 


mcnt  that  our  tent  and  buifalo-robcs  might  probably 
sliare  the  same  fate.  Godfrey,  with  whom  the  memory 
of  this  day's  work  may  atone  for  many  faults  of  a  later 
time,  had  a  bettor  eye  than  myself;  and,  looking  some 
miles  ahead,  he  could  see  that  our  tent  was  undergoing 
the  same  unceremonious  treatment.  I  thought  I  saw  it 
too  ;  but  we  were  so  drunken  with  cold  that  we  strode 
on  steadily;  and,  for  aught  I  know,  witiiout  quickening 
our  pace. 

"Probably  our  approach  saved  the  contents  of  the 
tent ;  for  when  we  reached  it  the  tent  was  uninjured, 
though  the  bear  had  overturned  it,  tossing  the  builalo- 
robes  and  pemmican  into  the  snow ;  we  missed  only  a 
couple  of  blanket-bags.  What  we  recollect,  however, 
and  perhaps  all  we  recollect,  is,  that  we  had  great  diffi- 
culty in  raising  it.  We  crawled  into  our  reindeer 
sleeping-bags,  without  speaking,  and  for  the  next  three 
hours  slept  on  in  a  dreamy  but  intense  slumber.  When 
I  awoke,  my  long  beard  was  a  mass  of  ice,  frozen  fast 
to  the  buffalo-skin  :  Godfrey  had  to  cut  me  out  with  his 
jack-knife.  Four  days  after  our  escape,  I  found  my 
woollen  comfortable  with  a  goodly  share  of  my  beard 
still  adhering  to  it. 

"  We  were  able  to  melt  water  and  get  some  soup 
cooked  before  the  rest  of  our  party  arrived  :  it  took 
them  but  five  hours  to  walk  the  nine  miles.  They  were 
doing  well,  and,  con.  n-ing  the  circumstances,  in  won- 
derful spirits.  The  day  was  most  providentially  wind- 
less, with  a  clear  sun.  All  enjoyed  the  refreshment  we 
had  got  ready  :  the  crippled  were  repacked  in  their 
robes  ;  and  we  sped  briskly  toward  the  hummock-ridges 
which  lay  between  us  and  the  Pinnacly  Berg. 

"  The  hummocks  we  had  now  to  meet  came  properly 

■  under  the  designation  of  squeezed  ice.     A  great  chain 

of  bergs  stretching  from  north-west  to  south-east,  mov- 


436 


DK.  KAWE'S  EXPEDITION'. 


ing  with  tlio  tides,  liad  compressed  the  surface-flues ; 
and,  rearing-  thurn  up  on  their  edges,  produced  an  area 
more  like  the  volciuiic  pech'agal  of  the  basin  of  Mexico 
tliun  any  tiling  else  1  can  compare  it  to.  .  ■       , 

"  It  re<piired  desperate  eil'orts  to  work  our  way  over 
it  —  literally  desperate,  for  our  strength  failed  us  anew, 
and  we  began  to  lose  our  self-control.  We  could  not 
abstain  any  longer  from  eating  snow  ;  our  mouths 
swelled,  and  some  of  us  became  speechless.  Happily, 
the  day  was  warmed  by  a  clear  sunshine,  and  the  ther- 
mometer rose  to  — i°  in  the  shade  ;  otherwise  we  must 
have  frozen. 

"  Our  halts  multiplied,  and  we  fell  half-sleeping  on 
the  snow.  I  could  not  prevent  it.  Strange  to  say,  it 
refreshed  us.  I  ventured  upon  the  experiment  myself, 
making  Riley  wake  me  at  the  end  of  three  minutes  ; 
and  I  felt  so  much  benefited  by  it  that  I  timed  the  men 
in  the  same  way.  They  sat  on  the  runners  of  the 
sledge,  fell  asleep  instantly,  and  were  forced  to  wake- 
fulness when  their  three  minutes  were  out. 
i  "By  eight  in  the  evening  we  emerged  from  the  floes. 
The  sight  of  the  Pinnacly  Berg  revived  us.  Brandy, 
an  invaluable  resource  in  emergency,  had  already  been 
served  out  in  table-spoonful  doses.  We  now  took  a 
longer  rest,  and  a  last  but  stouter  dram,  and  reached 
the  brig  at  one  p.  m.,  we  believe,  without  a  halt. 

"  I  say  we  believe;  and  here,  perhaps,  is  the  most 
decided  proof  of  our  sufferings  ;  we  were  quite  delir- 
ious, and  had  ceased  to  entertain  a  sane  apprehension 
of  the  circumstances  about  us.  We  moved  on  like  men 
in  a  dream.  Our  foot-marks,  seen  afterward,  showed 
that  we  had  steered  a  bee-line  for  the  brig.  It  must 
have  been  by  a  sort  of  instinct,  for  it  left  no  impress  on 
the  memory.  Bonsall  was  sent  staggering  ahead,  and 
reached  the  brig,  God  knows  how,   for  he  had  fallen 


im.    KANE'S   EXPFDITTON. 


437 


,ce-floe8  *, 
I  an  area 
f  Mexico 

way  over 
UB  anew, 
couUl  not 
r  mouths 

Happily, 

the  ther- 
[3  we  must 

eeping  on 
3  to  say,  it 
int  myself, 
3  minutes  ; 
}d  the  men 
lers  of  the 
d  to  wake- 

the  floes. 
Brandy, 
[ready  been 
>ow  took  a 
id  reached 

Ult. 

the  most 
iuite  delir- 
)prehension 
m  like  men 
|rd,  showed 
It  must 
impress  on 
ahead,  and 
had  fallen 


repeatedly  at  the  track-lines  ;  but  ho  delivered,  with 
piuictilious  accuracy,  tlie  mcssap^os  1  had  sent  by  him 
to  Dr.  Hayes.  I  thought  myself  the  soundest  of  all ; 
for  I  went  throu^li  all  the  formula  of  sanity,  and  can 
recall  the  muttering  delirium  of  my  comrades  when  wo 
got  back  into  the  cabin  of  our  brig.  Yet  I  have  been 
told  since  of  some  speeches,  and  some  orders,  too,  of 
mine,  which  I  should  have  remembered  for  their  absurd- 
ity, if  my  mind  had  retained  its  balance. 

"  Petersen  and  Whipple  came  out  to  meet  us  about 
two  miles  from  the  brig.  They  brought  my  dog-team, 
with  the  restoratives  I  had  sent  for  by  Bonsall.  I  dt) 
not  remember  their  coming.  Dr.  Hayes  entered  with 
judicious  energy  upon  the  treatment  our  condition 
called  ibr ;  administering  morphine  freely,  after  the 
usual  frictions.  He  reported  none  of  our  brain-symp- 
toms as  serious,  referring  tlicm  properly  to  the  class  of 
those  indications  of  exhausted  power  which  yield  to  a 
generous  diet  and  rest.  Mr.  Ohlsen  suflered  some  time 
from  strabismus  and  bli.idness  ;  two  others  underwent 
amputation  of  parts  of  the  foot,  without  unpleasant 
consequences  ;  and  two  died,  in  spite  of  all  our  efforts. 
This  rescue-party  had  been  out  for  seventy-two  hours. 
We  had  halted  in  all  eight  hours,  half  of  our  number 
sleeping  at  a  time.  We  travelled  between  eighty  and 
ninety  miles,  most  of  the  way  dragging  a  heavy  sledge. 
The  mean  temperature  of  the  whole  time,  including  the 
warmest  hours  of  three  days,  was  at  minus  4P.2.  We 
had  no  water  except  at  our  two  halts,  and  were  at 
no  time  able  to  intermit  vigorous  exercise  without 
freezing. 

"Aprils,  2\iesday. — Four  days  have  passed,  and  I 
am  again  at  my  record  of  failures,  sound,  but  aching 
still  in  every  joint.     The  rescued  men  are  not  out  of 

3t*  f   ■ 


438 


DR.   KANE'S  EXPEDITION. 


danger,  but  tlioir  gratitude  is  very  touching.  Pray 
God  that  they  may  live  I  " 

The  first  appearance  of  the  Esquimaux  is  thus  de- 
scribed : 

"  Wc  were  watching,  in  the  morning,  at  Baker's 
death-bed,  wiien  one  of  our  deck-watch,  who  had  been 
cutting  ic(;  for  the  melter,  came  hurrying  down  to  the 
cabin  with  the  report,  '  People  hollaing  ashore  !  '  I 
went  up,  followed  by  as  many  as  could  mount  the  gang- 
way ;  and  there  they  were,  on  all  sides  of  our  rocky 
harbor,  dotting  the  snow-shores,  and  emerging  from  the 
blackness  of  the  cliffs  —  wild  and  uncouth,  but  evi- 
dently human  beings. 

"As  we  gathered  on  the  deck,  they  rose  upon  the 
more  elevated  fragments  of  the  land-ice,  standing  singly 
and  conspicuously,  like  the  figures  in  a  tableau  of  the 
opera,  and  distributing  themselves  around  almost  in  a 
half-circle.  They  were  vociferating  as  if  to  attract  our 
attention,  or,  perhaps,  only  to  give  vent  to  their  sur- 
prise ;  but  I  could  make  nothing  out  of  their  cries, 
except  *  Hoah,  ha,  ha  ! '  and  '  Ka,  kaah  !  ka,  kaah  I ' 
repeated  over  and  over  again. 

"  There  was  light  enough  for  me  to  see  that  they 
brandished  no  weapons,  and  were  only  tossing  their 
heads  and  arms  about  in  violent  gesticulations.  A  more 
unexcited  inspection  showed  us,  too,  that  their  numbers 
were  not  as  great,  nor  their  size  as  Patagonian,  as  some 
of  us  had  been  disposed  to  fancy  at  first.  In  a  word,  I 
was  satisfied  that  they  were  natives  of  the  country  ; 
and,  calling  Petersen  from  his  bunk  to  be  my  interpreter, 
I  proceeded,  unarmed,  and  waving  my  open  hands, 
toward  a  stout  figure,  who  made  himself  conspicuous, 
and  seemed  to  have  a  greater  number  near  him  than 
the  rest.     He  evidently  understood  the  movement ;  for 


DR.    KANE'S  EXPEDITION. 


189 


ho  at  once,  like  a  brave  fellow,  leaped  down  upon  the 
fioe,  and  advuneed  to  meet  nie  fully  luilf-way 

"  He  was  nearly  a  head  taller  than  niyHelf,  extremely 
powerful  and  well-built,  with  Hwarthy  complexion,  and 
black  eyes.  His  dress  was  a  hooded  r*rt/)o/(!  or  jumper, 
of  mixed  white  and  blue  fox-pelts,  arranp^ed  with  some- 
thing^ of  fancy ;  and  booted  trousers  of  white  bear-skin, 
which,  at  the  end  of  the  foot,  were  made  to  terminate 
with  the  cluws  of  the  animal. 

"  1  soon  came  to  an  understanding  with  this  gallant 
diplomatist.  Almost  as  soon  as  we  commenced  our 
parley,  his  companions,  probably  receiving"  signals  from 
him,  (locked  in  and  surrounded  us  ;  but  we  had  no  diffi- 
culty in  making  them  know,  positively,  that  they  must 
remain  where  they  were,  whilo  Metek  went  with  me  on 
board  the  ship.  This  gave  me  the  advantage  of  nego- 
tiating with  an  important  hostage. 

"  Although  this  was  the  first  time  he  had  ever  seen 
a  white  man,  he  went  with  me  fearlessly,  his  compan- 
ions staying  behind  on  the  ice.  Ilickey  took  them  out 
what  he  esteemed  our  greatest  delicacies  —  slices  of 
good  wheat  bread,  and  corned  pork,  with  exorbitant 
lumps  of  white  sugar  ;  but  they  refused  to  xouch  them. 
They  had  evidently  no  apprehension  of  open  violence 
from  us.  I  found,  afterward,  that  several  among  them 
were  singly  a  match  for  the  white  bear  and  the  walrus, 
and  that  they  thought  us  a  very  pale-faced  crew. 

"  Being  satisfied  with  my  interview  in  the  cabin,  I 
sent  out  word  that  the  rest  might  be  admitted  to  the 
ship  ;  and,  although  they,  of  course,  could  not  know 
how  their  chief  had  been  dealt  with,  some  nine  or  ten 
of  them  followed,  with  boisterous  readiness,  upon  the 
bidding.  Others,  in  the  mean  time,  as  if  disposed  to 
give  us  their  company  for  the  full  time  of  a  visit, 
brought  up  from  behind  the  land-ice  as  many  as  fifty-six 


U 


440 


DR.   KANE'S  EXPEDITION. 


li   * 


t  ^  tl 


jBne  dogs,  with  their  sledges,  and  secured  them  witliin 
two  hundred  feet  of  the  hvig,  driving  their  lances  into 
the  ice,  and  picketing  the  dogs  to  thera  by  the  seal-skin 
traces.  The  animals  understood  the  operation  perfectly, 
and  lay  down  as  soon  as  it  commenced.  The  sledges 
were  made  up  of  small  fragments  of  porous  bone,  admira- 
bly knit  together  by  thongs  of  hide  :  the  runners,  which 
glistened  like  burnished  steel,  wore  of  highly-polished 
ivory,  obtained  from  the  tusks  of  the  walrus.    - 

"  The  only  arms  they  carried  were  knives,  concealed 
in  their  boots  ;  but  their  lances,  which  were  lashed  to 
the  sledges,  wore  quite  a  formidable  weapon.  The  staff 
was  of  the  horn  of  the  narwhal,  or  else  of  the  thigh-bones 
of  the  bear,  two  lashed  together  ;  or  sometimes  the 
mirabilis  of  the  walrus,  three  or  four  of  them  united. 
This  last  was  a  favorite  material,  also,  for  the  cross-bars 
of  their  sledges.  They  had  no  wood.  A  single  rusty 
hoop  from  a  current-drifted  cask  might  have  furnished 
all  the  knives  of  the  party  ;  but  the  fleam-shaped  tips 
of  their  lances  were  of  unmistakable  steel,  and  were 
riveted  to  the  tapering,  bony  point,  with  no  mean  skill. 
I  learned  afterward  that  the  metal  was  obtained  in  traflSc 
from  the  more  southern  tribes. 

"  They  were  clad  r.  oh  as  I  have  described  Metek, 
in  jumpers,  boots,  and  white  bear-skin  breeches,  with 
their  feet  decorated  like  his,  en  griffe.  A  strip  of  knot- 
ted leather  worn  round  the  neck,  very  greasy  and  dirty- 
looking,  which  no  one  could  be  persuaded  to  part  with 
for  an  instant,  was  mistaken,  at  first,  for  an  ornament 
by  the  crew ;  it  was  not  until  mutual  hardships  had 
made  us  better  acquainted  that  we  learned  its  mys- 
terious uses. 

"  When  they  were  first  allowed  to  come  on  board, 
they  were  very  rude  and  difficult  to  manage.  They 
spoke  three  or  four  at  a  time,  to  each  other  and  to  us. 


DR.   KANE'S  EXPEDITION. 


441 


lem  within 
ances  into 
le  seal-skin 
1  perfectly, 
'he  sledges 
)ne,  admira- 
ners,  which 
tily-polished 

3. 

s,  concealed 
i-e  lashed  to 
n.  The  staff 
3  thigh-bones 
metimes  the 
them  united, 
he  cross-bars 

single  rusty 
ive  furnished 
_  -shaped  tips 
|el,  and  were 

lO  mean  skill. 

jned  in  traffic 

k'ibed  Metek, 
Ireeches,  with 
|strip  of  knot- 
isy  and  dirty- 
to  part  with 
an  ornament 
liardships  had 
[ncd  its  mys- 

le  on  board, 
mage.  They 
ler  and  to  us. 


laughinf  heartily  at  our  ignorance  in  not  understanding 
them,  a  d  then  talking  away,  as  before.  They  were  in- 
cessantly in  motion,  —  going  everywhere,  trying  doors, 
and  squeezing  tliomselves  through  dark  passages,  round 
casks  and  boxes,  and  out  into  the  liglit  again,  anxious  to 
touch  and  handle  everything  they  saw,  and  asking  for, 
or  else  endeavoring  to  steal,  everything  they  touched. 
It  was  the  more  difficult  to  restrain  them,  as  I  did  not 
wish  them  to  suppose  that  we  were  at  all  intimidated. 
But  there  were  some  signs  of  our  disabled  condition, 
which  it  was  important  they  should  not  see  ;  it  was 
especially  necessary  to  keep  them  out  of  the  forecastle, 
where  the  dead  body  of  poor  Baker  was  lying ;  and,  as 
it  was  in  vain  to  reason  or  persuade,  we  had,  at  last,  to 
employ  the  '  gentle  laying-on  of  hands,'  which,  I  believe, 
the  laws  of  all  countries  tolerate,  to  keep  them  in  order. 

"  Our  whole  force  was  mustered,  and  kept  constantly 
on  the  alert ;  but,  though  there  may  have  been  some- 
thing of  discourtesy  in  the  occasional  shoulderings  and 
bustlings  that  enforced  the  police  of  the  ship,  things 
went  on  good-humoredly.  Our  guests  continued  run- 
ning in  and  out  and  about  the  vessel,  bringing  in  pro- 
visions, and  carrying  them  out  again  to  their  dogs  on 
the  ice  ;  in  fact,  stealing  all  the  time,  until  the  after- 
noon, when,  like  tired  children,  they  threw  themselves 
down  to  sleep.  I  ordered  them  to  be  made  comfortable 
in  the  hold  ;  and  Morton  spread  a  large  buffalo-robe  for 
them  not  far  from  a  coal-fire  in  the  galley-stove. 

"  They  were  lost  in  barbarous  amaze  at  the  new  fael, 
—  too  hard  for  blubber,  too  soft  for  fire-stone,  —  but 
they  were  content  to  believe  it  might  cook  as  well  as 
seal's  flit.  They  borrowed  from  us  an  iron  pot,  and 
some  melted  water,  and  parboiled  a  couple  of  pieces  of 
walrus-meat ;  but,  the  real  piece  de  resistance,  some  five 
pounds  of  head,  the}"^  preferred  to  eat  raw.     Yet  there 


'' 


mi 


I 


li 


442 


DR.   KANE'S  EXPEDITION. 


was  something  of  the  gourmet  in  their  mode  of  assort- 
ing their  mouthfuls  of  beef  and  blubber.  Slices  of  each, 
or  rather  strips,  passed  between  the  lips,  either  to- 
gether or  in  strict  alternation,  and  with  a  regularity  of 
sequence  that  kept  the  molars  well  to  their  work, 

"  They  did  not  eat  all  at  once,  but  each  man  when 
and  as  often  as  the  impulse  prompted.  Each  slept  after 
eating,  his  raw  chunk  lying  beside  him  on  the  buffalo- 
skin  ;  and,  as  he  woke,  the  first  act  was  to  eat,  and  the 
next  to  sleep  again.  They  did  not  lie  down,  but  slum- 
bered away  in  a  sitting  posture,  with  the  head  declined 
upon  the  breast,  some  of  them  snoring  famously. 

"In  the  morning  they  were  anxious  to  go  ;  but  I  had 
given  orders  to  detain  them  for  a  parting  interview  with 
myself.  It  resulted  in  a  treaty,  brief  in  its  terms,  that 
it  might  be  certainly  remembered  ;  and  mutually  bene- 
ficial, that  it  might  possibly  be  kept.  I  tried  to  make 
them  understand  what  a  powerful  Prosper©  they  had  had 
for  a  host,  and  how  beneficent  he  would  prove  himself  so 
long  as  they  did  his  bidding.  And,  as  an  earnest  of  my 
favor,  I  bought  all  the  walrus-meat  they  had  to  spare, 
and  four  of  their  dogs  ;  enriching  them,  in  return,  with 
needles  and  beads,  and  a  treasure  of  old  cask-staves." 

The  flesh  of  the  seal  is  eaten  universally  by  the  Danes 
of  Greenland,  and  is,  at  certain  seasons,  almost  the 
staple  diet  of  the  Esquimaux.  These  animals  are  shot 
lying  by  their  afliik  or  breathing-holes.  Their  eyes  are 
so  congested  by  the  glare  of  the  sun  in  midsummer  as 
to  render  them  more  readily  approachable. 

"  On  one  occasion,"  says  Dr.  Kane,  "  while  working 
my  way  toward  the  Esquimaux  huts,  I  saw  a  large  Usuk 
basking  asleep  upon  the  ice.  Taking  off  my  shoes,  I 
commenced  a  somewhat  refrigerating  process  of  stalk- 
ing, lying  upon  my  belly,  and  crawling  along,  step  by 
step,  behind  the  little  knobs  of  floe.     At  last,  when  I 


m 


DR.  KANE'S  EXPEDITION. 


443 


was  within  long  rifle-shot,  the  animal  gave  a  sluggish 
roll  to  one  side,  and  suddenly  lifted  his  head.  The 
movement  was  evidently  independent  of  me,  for  he 
strained  his  neck  in  nearly  the  opposite  direction.  Then, 
for  the  first  time,  I  found  that  I  had  a  rival  seal-hunter 
in  a  large  bear,  who  was,  on  his  belly  like  myself,  wait- 
ing with  commendable  patience  and  cold  feet  for  a  chance 
of  nearer  approach. 

"  Wliat  should  I  do  ?  —  the  bear  was  doubtless  worth 
more  to  me  than  the  seal ;  but  the  seal  was  now  within 
shot,  and  the  bear  '  a  bird  in  the  bush.'  Besides,  my 
bullet  once  invested  in  the  seal  would  leave  me  defence- 
less. I  might  be  giving  a  dinner  to  a  bear,  and  saving 
myself  for  his  dessert.  These  meditations  were  soon 
brought  to  a  close  ;  for  a  second  movement  of  the  seal 
so  aroused  my  hunter's  instincts  that  I  pulled  the  trigger. 
My  cap  alone  exploded.  Instantly,  with  a  floundering 
splash,  the  seal  descended  into  the  deep,  and  the  bear, 
with  three  or  four  rapid  leaps,  stood  disconsolately  by 
the  place  of  his  descent.  For  a  single  moment  we 
stared  each  other  in  the  face,  and  then,  with  that  dis- 
cretion which  is  the  better  part  of  valor,  the  bear  ran 
off  in  one  direction,  and  I  followed  his  example  in  the 
other." 

The  month  of  April  was  about  to  close,  and  the  short 
season  available  for  Arctic  search  was  already  advanced, 
when  Dr.  Kane  started  on  his  grand  sledge  expedition 
to  the  north.  "  It  was,"  says  the  enterprising  com- 
mander, "  to  be  the  crowning  expedition  of  the  campaign 
to  attain  the  ultima  thiile  of  the  Greenland  shore,  meas- 
ure the  waste  that  lay  between  it  and  the  unknown 
west,  and  seek  round  the  furthest  circle  of  the  ice  for 
an  outlet  to  the  mysterious  channels  beyond."  The 
rigor  of  the  climate,  the  difficulties  of  the  country,  the 
failure  of  the  caches  which  had  been  broken  into  by  the 


444 


DR.  KANE'S  EXPEDITION. 


U. 


bears,  the  enfeebled  state  of  the  party,  and  the  inade- 
quacy of  means  and  equipments,  all,  how  over,  combined 
to  cause  failure.  By  the  5th  of  May,  Dr.  Kane  had 
become  delirious,  and  fainted  every  time  that  he  was 
taken  from  the  tent  to  the  sledge  ;  so  all  idea  of  further 
progress  had  to  be  given  up.  He  was  taken  into  the 
brig  on  the  14th,  ard  lay  fluctuating  between  life  and 
death  till  the  20th. 

Some  interesting  discoveries  were,  however,  made  on 
this  unfortunate  trip,  more  especially  of  two  remarkable 
freaks  of  nature,  one  of  which  was  called  the  "  Three 
Brother  Turrets,"  the  other,  "  Tennyson's  Monument." 
The  latter  was  a  solitary  column,  or  "  minaret  tower  " 
of  greenstone,  the  length  of  whose  shaft  was  four  hun- 
dred and  eighty  feet,  and  it  rose  on  a  plinth,  or  pedestal, 
itself  two  hundred  and  eighty  feet  high,  as  sharply  fin- 
ished as  if  it  had  been  cast  for  the  Place  Vendome.  But 
by  far  the  most  remarkable  feature  in  the  inland  Green- 
land sea  is  the  so-called  "  Great  Glacier  of  Humboldt." 

"  I  will  not  attempt "  (writes  Dr.  Kane,  speaking  of 
the  impossibility  of  giving  an  idea  of  this  great  glacier 
by  sketches)  "to  do  better  by  florid  description.  Men 
only  rhapsodize  about  Niagara  and  the  ocean.  My 
notes  speak  simply  of  the  '  long,  ever-shining  line  of 
cliflf  diminished  to  a  well-pointed  wedge  in  the  perspec- 
tive ;  '  and  again,  of  '  the  face  of  glistening  ice,  sweep- 
ing in  a  long  curve  from  the  low  interior,  the  facets  in 
front  intensely  illuminated  by  the  sun.^  But  this  line 
of  cliff  rose  in  solid  glassy  wall  three  hundred  feet  above 
the  water  level,  with  an  unknown,  unfathomable  depth 
below  it ;  and  its  curved  face,  sixty  miles  in  length , 
from  Cape  Agassiz  to  Cape  Forbes,  vanished  into 
unknown  space  at  not  more  than  a  single  day's  railroad- 
travel  from  the  pole.  The  interior  with  which  it  com- 
municated, and  from  which  it  issued,  was  an  unsurveyed 


DR.  KANE'S  EXPEDITION. 


445 


mer  de  glace,  an  ice  ocean,  to  the  eye  of  boundless 
dimensions. 

"  It  was  in  full  sig'ht —  the  mighty  crystal  bridge  which 
connects  the  two  continents  of  America  and  (jireenland. 
I  say  continents,  for  Greenland,  however  insulated  it 
may  ultimately  prove  to  be,  is  in  mass  strictly  conti- 
nental. Its  least  possible  axis,  measured  from  Cape 
Farewell  to  the  line  of  this  glacier,  in  the  neighborhood 
of  the  eightieth  parallel,  gives  a  length  of  more  than 
twelve  hundred  miles,  —  not  materially  less  than  that  of 
Australia  from  its  northern  to  its  southern  cape. 

"  Imagine  now  the  centre  of  such  a  continent,  oc- 
cupied through  nearly  its  whole  extent  by  a  deep  un- 
broken sea  of  ice,  that  gathers  perennial  increase  from 
the  water-shed  of  vast  snow-covered  mountains,  and  all 
the  precipitations  of  the  atmosphere  upon  its  own  sur- 
face. Imagine  this  moving  onward  like  a  great  glacial 
river,  seeking  outlets  at  every  fiord  and  valley,  rolling 
icy  cataracts  into  the  Atlantic  and  Greenland  seas  ;  and, 
having  at  last  reached  the  northern  limit  of  the  land  that 
has  borne  it  up,  pouring  out  a  mighty  frozen  torrent 
into  unknown  Arctic  space. 

"  It  is  thus,  and  only  thus,  that  we  must  form  a  just 
conception  of  a  phenomenon  like  this  Great  Glacier.  I 
had  looked  in  my  own  mind  for  such  an  appearance, 
should  I  ever  be  fortunate  enough  to  rea(  h  the  northern 
coast  of  Greenland.  But,  now  that  it  was  before  me,  I 
could  hardly  realize  it.  I  had  recognized,  in  my  quiet 
library  at  home,  the  beautiful  analogic  which  Forbes 
and  Studer  have  developed  between  the  glacier  and  the 
river.  But  I  could  not  comprehend  at  first  this  com- 
plete substitution  of  ice  for  water.  •    wi 

"  It  was  slowly  that  the  conviction  dawned  on  me 

4.' 

that  I  was  looking  upon  the  counterpart  of  the  great 
river  system  of  Arctic  Asia  and   America.     Yet  here 

38 


i 


Kil 


446 


DR.  KANE'S  EXPEDITION. 


were  no  water-feeders  from  the  acuth.  Every  particle 
of  moisture  had  its  origin  within  tlie  Polar  Circle,  and 
had  been  converted  into  ice.  There  were  no  vast  allu- 
vions, no  forest  or  animal  traces  borne  down  by  liquid 
torrents.  Here  was  a  plastic,  moving,  semi-solid  mass, 
obliterating  life,  swallowing  rocks  and  islands,  and 
plough'ng  its  way  with  irresistible  marcli  through  the 
crust  of  an  investing  sea." 

"  Humboldt  Glacier  "  and  "  Tennyson's  Monument  " 
will  deservedly  occupy  a  place  in  all  future  editions  of 
those  interesting  little  books  called  "  Wonders  of  the 
World."  As  soon  as  Dr.  Kane  had  recovered  enough  to 
become  aware  of  his  failure,  he  began  to  devise  means  for 
remedj-^ing  it.  Of  the  ship's  company,  the  only  one 
remaining,  qualihed  to  conduct  a  surv(»y,  was  Dr.  Hayes. 
He  accordingly  started  with  a  dog-team,  in  company 
with  William  Giodlre}'^,  across  Smith's  Straits,  on  the 
20th  of  May,  and  succeeded  in  reaching  *79°  45'  north 
latitude,  in  longitude  69°  12',  The  coast  was  sighted 
for  thirty  miles  to  the  northward  and  eastward,  and  two 
large  headlands,  called  Capes  Joseph  Leidy  and  John 
Frazer,  were  named  upon  it.  The  doctor  returned  to 
the  brig,  after  a  very  arduous  and  fatiguing  journey,  on 
the  1st  of  June,  worn  out  and  snow-blind.  In  many 
places  he  could  not  have  advanced  but  for  the  dogs. 
Deep  cavities  filled  with  snow  intervened  between  lines 
of  ice-barricades,  making  the  travel  slow  and  tedious. 
For  some  time  he  was  not  able,  from  snow-blindness,  to 
use  the  sextant.  The  rude  harness  of  the  dogs  would 
get  tangled  and  cause  delay.  It  was  only  after  appro- 
priating an  undue  ^hare  of  his  seal-skin  breeches  that 
Dr.  Hayes  succeeded  in  patching  up  his  mutilated  dog- 
lines.  His  pemmican  became  so  reduced  that  to  return 
was  a  thing  of  necessity.  The  land-ice  was  travelled 
for  '1  while  at  the  rate  of  five  or  six  miles  an  hour  ;  but 


DR.  KANE'S  EXPEDITION. 


447 


after  crossing  Dobbin  Bay,  the  snows  were  an  un- 
expected impediment. 

Notwithstanding-  the  perils,  privations,  and  suffer- 
ings, that  had  attended  all  the  sledge-parties.  Dr.  Kano 
determined  to  organize  another  before  the  brief  season 
for  such  had  gone  by.  This  last,  under  Messrs,  M'Cary 
and  Bonsall,  left  the  brig  on  the  3d  of  June,  and  reached 
Humboldt  Glacier  on  the  15th,  They  were  provided 
with  apparatus  for  climbing  ice,  but  failed  in  all  their 
efforts  to  scale  this  stupendous  glacial  mass.  The  bears 
were  so  bold  as  actually  to  poke  their  heads  in  at  the 
tent-door,  to  the  great  inconvenience  of  the  sleepers 
within.  Four  of  the  party  returned  to  the  brig  on  the 
2tth,  one  of  them  entirely  blind.  .  ,  .. 

Hans  and  Morton  remained  out,  pushing  northwards, 
and  keeping  parallel  to  the  glacier  at  a  distance  of  from 
five  to  seven  miles.  They  saw  rectangular  pieces  of  ice, 
apparently  detached  from  the  glacier,  more  than  a  mile 
long!  On  the  21st  of  June  they  sighted  open  water. 
This  was  afterwards  called  Kennedy  Channel.  After 
turning  Cape  Andrew  Jackson  they  made  better  way 
along  the  ice-foot ;  and  they  pursued  their  course  as  far 
as  Cape  Constitution,  on  "  Washington  Land,"  in  82* 
21'.  The  highest  point  on  the  opposite  coast  of  "  Grin- 
nell  Land  "  was  a  lofty  mountain,  estimated  to  be  in 
latitude  82°  30',  and  longitude  66°  west,  which  Dr.  Kane 
called  Mount  Edward  Parry  ;  who,  he  says,  "  as  he  has 
carried  his  name  to  the  movst  northern  latitude  yet 
reached,  should  have  in  this,  tlie  highest  known  northern 
land,  a  recognition  of  his  preeminent  position  among 
Arctic  explorers."  This  open  channel  was  found  to 
abound  in  seals  ;  bears  were  numerous —  one  with  its  cub 
they  succeeded  in  killing ;  and  birds,  among  which 
were  brent  geese,  eider-ducks,  king-ducks,  dovekies, 
gulls,  sea-swallows,  and  Arctic  petrels,  were  in  exceed- 


w  ■»  ' 


4^8 


DR.  KANE'S  EXPEDITION. 


ipjj*  plenty.  This  was  the  crowning  excursion  of  the 
expedition,  and  the  results  present  rich  matter  for  spec- 
ulation to  those  who  believe  in  an  open  polar  sea  beyond 
the  region  of  cmboyod  and  strangulated  ice-floes. 

Instead  of  the  Bay  of  Baffin  forming  a  cul  de  sac,  as 
the  old  tradition  of  the  whalers  conceived,  it  leads  to  a 
strait  (.Smith's  Strait),  which  passes  on  into  a  channel 
(Kennedy  Channel),  tliat  apparently  expands  into  an 
open  polar  sea,  abounding  with  life,  some  three  liundred 
miles  further  to  the  north  than  the  head  of  Baffin's  Bay. 
The  shores  of  this  channel,  terminating  in  the  Cape 
Constitution  of  Mr.  Morton,  in  latitude  81°  22',  on  the 
eastern  side,  and  in  Sir  Edward  Parry's  peak,  about 
latitude  82°  IT,  on  the  western  side,  had  now  been 
delineated  and  mapped  through  an  extent  of  nine  hun- 
dred and  sixty  miles,  at  a  cost  of  two  thousand  miles  of 
travel  on  foot  and  in  sledges.  Mr.  Morton  commenced 
his  return  on  the  25th  of  June,  and  reached  the  ship  on 
the  10th  of  July,  staggering  by  the  <side  of  the  limping 
dogs,  one  of  which  was  riding  as  a  passenger  upon  the 
sledge. 

The  summer  of  1854  was  now  v\  taring  on,  and  yet  no 
prospects  presented  themselves  of  the  ice  breaking  up, 
so  as  to  liberate  the  biig.  Under  these  circumstances, 
Dr.  Kane  determined  upon  making  an  attempt  to  com- 
municate with  Sir  Edward  Belcher's  squadron  at 
Beechey  Island.  For  this  purpose  a  boat  was  fitted  out, 
called  the  Forlorn  Hope,  and  was  carried  across  the 
heav}'^  ice-floe  to  be  launched  ii!  open  water.  On  their 
way  to  the  southward  they  fell  in  with  an  island,  upon 
which  they  killed  a  number  of  eider-ducks,  and  procured 
a  large  supply  of  eggs.  On  the  19th  of  July  they  made 
Cape  Alexander,  and  were  enabled  to  deter  nine  that 
the  narrowest  part  of  Smith's  Strait  is  not,  as  has  been 
considered,  between  Cape  Isabella  and  Cape  Alexander, 


DR.  KANE'S  EXPEDITION. 


440 


])iit  upon  the  parallel  of  tS*-'  24',  where  Capo  Isabella 
bears  due  west  of  Littleljn  Island,  and  the  diameter  of 


THE   FOBLOU.V    HOl'K    EyUU'l'ED. 


the  channel  is  reduced  to  thirty-seven  miles.  Hence, 
they  passed  from  the  straits  into  the  open  seaway.  At 
this  time  a  gale  broke  upon  them  from  the  north,  and 
they  were  oxi)Osed  to  all  its  fury  in  the  open  whale-boat. 
They  were  glad  to  drive  before  the  wind  into  the  in-shore 
floes.  The  pack,  so  much  feared  before,  was  now  looked 
to  -^  J  a  refuge. 

Working  their  way  through  the  broken  pack,  they 
reached  Ilakluyt  Island  on  the  23d  of  July,  where  they 
rested  a  while  and  dried  their  buffalo-robes.  The  next 
morning  they  renewed  their  labors,  but  were  arrested 
by  the  pack  off  Northumberland  Island.  For  four  days 
they  made  strenuous  efforts  to  work  through  the  half- 
open  leads,  but  in  vain  ;  they  had  reached  +'  dividing 
pack  of  the  two  great  open  waters  of  Baff  u  n  '^.ly,  and 
which  Dr.  Kane  considered  to  be  made  up  ^  the  ices 
which  Jones's  Sound  on  the  west,  and  Murchison's  on 
the  east,  had  discharged  and  driven  together.  Under 
these  circumstances,  they  were  obliged  to  return  to 
Northumberland  Island,  which  they  found  to  be  one 
enormous  homestead  of  auks,  dovekies,  and  gulls,  and 

38* 


450 


DR.  KANL'S   EXPEDITION. 


whoi  oy  procured  sorrel  and  cochlearia.  Foxes  were 
also  V  'lumerouH.  IJy  the  time  they  got  back  to  the 
brig,  the  commahdor  says  he  and  his  little  party  had 
got  quite  fat  and  strong  upon  the  auks,  eiders,  and 
scurvy-grass. 

On  board  of"  tiie  Advance,  however,  which  had  now 
been  imprisoned  by  closely-cementing  ice  for  eleven 
months,  as  the  season  travelled  on  and  the  young  ice 
grew  thicker,  faces  began,  also,  to  grow  longer  every 
day.  It  was  the  oidy  face  with  which  they  could  look 
upon  another  winter.  "  It  is  horribJc,"  writes  Dr.  Kane, 
—  "  yes,  that  is  the  word,  — to  look  forward  to  another 
year  of  disease  and  darkness,  to  be  met  without  fresh 
food  and  without  fuel." 

Under  these  circumstances,  Dr.  Kane  called  the  offi- 
cers and  crew  together,  and  left  to  every  man  his  own 
choice  to  remain  by  the  ship  or  to  attempt  an  escape  to 
the  Danish  settlements  to  the  southward.  Eight  out  of 
the  seventeen  survivors  resolved  to  stand  by  the  brig 
and  their  commander.  The  remainder  started  off,  on  the 
28th,  "with  the  elastic  step  of  men  confident  in  their 
purpose  ;  "  but  one  returned  a  few  days  afterwards,  and 
all  ultimately  either  found  their  way  back,  or  were 
brought  back  by  the  humane  Esquimaux,  after  hard 
trials,  and  almost  unparalleled  sufferings. 

Those  that  remained  with  the  ship  set  to  work  at  once 
gathering  moss  for  eking  out  the  winter  fuel,  and  willow- 
stems  and  sorrel  as  antiscorbutics.  The  "  mossing," 
although  it  had  a  pleasant  sound,  was  in  reality  a  fright- 
fully wintry  operation.  Tiie  mixed'  turf,  of  willows, 
heaths,  grasses,  and  moss,  was  frozen  solid.  It  had  ic 
be  quarried  with  crowbars,  and  carried  to  the  ship  like 
so  much  stone.  With  this  they  banked  up  the  ship's 
Bides,  and  below  they  enclosed  a  space  some  eighteen 
feet  square,  and  packed  it  with  the  same  material  from 


DK.   KANE'S  KXPKDITION. 


451 


floor  to  ceiling.  The  entrance  was  also  by  a  low,  moss- 
lined  tunnel,  aiul  in  tiiis  apartment  the  men  stowed 
away  for  the  winter.  The  closer  tlicy  lay,  the  warmer. 
Dr.  Kane  was  once  more  nearly  lost,  however,  before 
darkness  came  on.  In  an  attempt  to  kill  a  seal  he  got 
upon  thin  ice,  and  was,  with  dogs  and  sledge,  thrown 
into  open  water.  lie  owed  his  extrication,  when 
nearly  gone,  to  a  newly-broken  team-dog,  who  was  still 
fast  to  the  sledge,  and  drew  it  and  the  doctor  up  on  to 
the  floe. 

An  occasional  intercourse  had  always  been  kept  up 
with  the  Esquimaux.  We  have  seen  that  they  came  to 
pilfer,  and  Dr.  Kane  retorted  by  making  some  of  them 
prisoners.  A  treaty  of  friendship  was  then  made,  and 
never  broken  by  the  natives.  The  nearest  Esquimaux 
settlement  was  distant,  by  dog-journey,  about  seventy- 
five  miles  ;  and  with  this  rude  but  friendly  people  our 
adventurers  established  a  c  .imunication,  and  procured 
from  them  supplies  of  beai-meat,  seal,  walrus,  fox,  and 
ptarmigan,  which  were  eaten  raw, — the  custom  in  this 
region.  But  these  supplies  became  scanty  with  the 
approach  of  the  dark  months.  Attempts  to  reach  the 
Esquimaux  were  rendered  impracticable  by  the  rugged- 
ness  of  the  ice  ;  and  this  unfortunate  people  were  them- 
selves reduced  to  the  lowest  stages  of  misery  and 
emaciation  by  famine,  attended  with  various  frightful 
forms  of  disease. 

On  the  141h  of  January  Dr.  Kane  congratulated  him- 
self that  in  five  more  days  the  mid-day  sun  would  be 
only  "  eight  degrees  below  the  koiizon."  On  the  9th  of 
February  he  wrote  in  his  journal :  "It  is  enough  to 
solemnize  men  of  more  joyous  temperament  than  ours 
has  been  for  some  months.  We  are  contending  at 
odds  with  angry  forces  close  around  us,  without  one 
agent  or  influence  within  eighteen  hundred  miles  whose 


m\ 


452 


DR.    RANK'S   EXPEDITION. 


If 


Bympathy  is  on  our  side."  There  were  no  star  obser- 
vations this  winter;  tlie  observatory  had  become  the 
mauHoleiun  of  the  two  of  tlie  party  who  had  Huccumbed 
after  tlie  cxcurHion  in  the  snow-drift.  In  the  beginning- 
of  March  every  man  on  board  was  tainted  with  scurvy ; 
and  often  not  more  than  tliree  were  able  to  make  exer- 
tion in  behalf  of  the  rest.  On  the  4th  of  the  month 
the  last  remnant  of  fresh  meat  was  doled  out,  and  the 
invalids  begun  to  sink  rapidly.  Their  lives  were  only 
saved  by  the  success  of  a  forlorn-hope  excursion  of 
Hans  to  the  remote  Esquimaux  hunting-station  Etah, 
seventy-five  miles  away,  whither  he  went  in  search  of 
walrus. 

On  one  occasion  the  adventurers  killed  a  bear  that 
had  come  with  its  cub,  pressed  by  extreme  hunger, 
close  to  the  brig.  It  is  painful  to  read  the  details  of 
the  struggle,  from  the  wonderful  attachment  shown  by 
the  mother  to  its  cub,  and  by  the  latter  to  its  parent,  to 
whom  it  always  clung,  even  in  death.  But  the  men's 
lives  were  valuable  ;  and  it  was  thought  excusable  to 
kill  two  bears  when  the  glaucous  gulls  were  seen  gob- 
bling up  young  eider-ducks  in  the  face  of  their  dis- 
tracted mothers  by  mouthfuls.  Dr.  Kane  was  the  only 
person  who  would  eat  rats.  lie  attributes  his  compara- 
tive immunity  from  scurvy  to  "  rat-soup."  Among  the 
Arctic  dainties  wliich  seem  most  to  have  excited  his 
gastronomic  enthusiasm  was  frozen  walrus-liver,  eaten 
raw. 

Having  no  fuel,  they  were  now  reduced  to  the  Esqui- 
maux system  of  relying  on  lamps  for  heat ;  beds  and 
bedding  hence  became  black  with  soot,  and  their  faces 
were  begrimed  with  fatty  carbon.  The  journal  is  now 
little  more  than  a  chronicle  of  privations  and  sufferings, 
interspersed  with  extraordinary  efforts  to  keep  up  com- 
munications with  the  Esquimaux.    It  is,  without  compar- 


DR.    KANirS   EXPEDITION. 


458 


star  obaor- 
bccomo  tho 

succumbed 
c  boginning 
^ith  scurvy ; 
)  make  exer- 

tbo  month 
nut,  and  the 
38  were  only 
(xcursion  of 
,tation  Etah, 
in  search  of 

I  a  bear  that 
■cme   hunger, 
ho  details  of 
out  shown  by 
,  its  parent,  to 
ut  the  men's 
excusable  to 
re  seen  gob- 
of  their   dis- 
|was  the  only 
his  compara- 
Among  the 
e  excited  his 
s-liver,  eaten 

1  to  the  Esqni- 
lat  -,  beds  and 

id  their  faces 
lournal  is  now 
Ind  sufferings, 
Ikeep  up  com- 

thout  compar- 


ison, the  most  painfully  inloresting  record  of  experience 
iu  wintering  in  the  I'ur  north  that  has  ever  yet  been 
l)ul)lished.  In  the  niidHt  of  their  troubles  two  of  the  men 
tried  to  desert,  but  only  one  —  Godfrey  —  succeeded, 
lie  returned,  strange  to  say,  on  the  2d  of  April,  with 
food,  in  a  sledge,  but  would  not  himself  (|uit  the  EHijui- 
maux.  Under  a  misappreheiiHion  that  he  had  robl)ed 
Hans,  one  of  the  hunters,  of  his  sledge  and  dogs,  his 
life  was  n(!ar  being  sacrificed  by  the  commander  from 
whom  he  had  deserted. 

The  abandonment  of  the  brig  was  now  resolved  on. 
Befor"  spring  could  be  welcomed,  preparatiwns  had  been 
going  on  for  some  time  Ibr  a  sledge  and  boat  escape 
from  their  long  imprisonment.  The  employment  thus 
given  to  the  men  exerted  a  wholesome  influence  on  their 
moral  tone,  and  assisted  tiieir  convalescence.  They  had 
three  boats,  and  they  all  required  to  be  strengthened. 
There  was  clothing,  bedding,  and  provision-bags,  to 
make.  The  sledges  had  to  be  prepared.  The  llth  of 
May  was  appointed  for  the  start.  The  farewell  to  the 
ship  was  most  impressive.  Prayers  were  read,  and  then 
a  chapter  of  the  Bible.  The  flags  were  then  hoisted  and 
hauled  down  again,  and  she  was  left  alone  in  the  ice. 
Godfrey  had,  by  this  time,  it  is  to  be  observed,  rejoined 
the  ship  ;  so  the  party  consisted  altogether  of  seventeen, 
of  whom  four  were  unable  to  move. 

The  collections  of  natural  history  the  party  were 
reluctantly  compelled  to  leave  behind,  and  part  of  the 
apparatus  for  observations,  as  well  as  the  library  of  the 
commander,  and  the  books  furnished  by  the  govern- 
ment and  Mr,  Grinnell  for  the  use  of  the  vessel. 
Nothing  was  retained  but  the  documents  of  the  expe- 
dition. 

At  Etah  the  Esquimaux  settlement  were  found  "  out 
on  the  bare  rocks,"  enjoying  the  plenty  which  spring 


454 


DR.   KANE'S  EXPEDITION. 


had  brought.  "  Rudest  of  gypsies,  how  they  squalled, 
and  laughed,  and  snored,  and  rolled  about !  Some  were 
sucking  bird-skins  ;  others  were  boiling  incredible  num- 
bers of  auks  in  huge  soapstone  pots  ;  and  two  young- 
sters, crying,  at  the  top  of  their  voices,  '  Oopegsoak  I 
oopegsoak  1 '  were  fighting  for  an  owl. 


a 


j'-;:":^0 


■  V-         J 


ESQUi.MAlX    r.iiY    CAlCl: 


Al'KS. 


"  There  was  enough  to  make  thorn  improvident.  The 
little  auks  were  breeding  in  the  low  cones  of  rubbish 
under  the  cliffs  in  such  numbers  that  it  cost  them  no 
more  to  get  food  than  it  does  a  cook  to  gather  vegeta- 
bles.    A  boy,  ordered  to  climb  the  rocks  with  one  of 


DR.   KANE'S   EXPEDITION. 


455 


ley  squalled, 
Some  were 

Tcdible  num- 
two  young- 

'  Oopegsoak  I 


)rovident.    The 

|nes  of  rubbish 

cost  them  no 

[gather  vegeta- 

ca  with  one  of 


their  purse-nets  of  seal-skin  at  the  end  of  a  narwhal's 
tusk,  would  return  in  a  few  minutes  with  as  many  as  he 
could  carry." 

Up  to  the  23d  the  pro^^ress  of  Dr.  Kane's  party  was 
little  more  than  a  mile  a  day.  The  housed  boats  luck- 
ily afforded  tolerably  good  «lccping-bertlis  at  night.  On 
the  5th  of  June,  Ohlsen  injured  himseir  so  in  an  attempt 
to  rescue  a  sledge  from  falling  into  a  tide-hole,  that  he 
died  three  days  afterwards. 

"  Still  passing  slowly  on,  day  after  day,  —  I  am  reluct- 
ant," writes  Dr.  Kane,  "  to  borrow  from  my  journal 
the  details  of  anxiety  and  embarrassment  with  which  it 
abounds  throughout  this  period,  —  we  came  at  last  to  the 
unmistakable  neighborhood  of  open  water."  This  was 
off  Pekintlek,  the  largest  of  the  Littleton  Island  group. 

On  Tuesday,  the  19th  of  June,  after  a  long  lorewell 
given  to  their  long-tried  friends,  the  Esquimaux  of 
Etah,  who  had  brought  them  frequent  supplies  of  birds, 
and  aided  them  in  carrying  their  provisions  and  stores, 
they  put  to  sea,  and,  the  very  first  day's  navigation,  one 
of  the  boats  swamped.  They  spent  the  first  night  in 
an  inlet  in  the  ice,  and  on  the  22d  reached  Northumber- 
land Island  in  a  snow-storm.  Here  they  got  fresh  pro- 
visions. They  crossed  Murchison  Channel  on  the  23d, 
and  encamped  for  the  night  on  the  land-floe  at  the  base 
of  Cape  Parry  —  a  hard  day's  travel,  partly  by  tracking 
over  ice,  partly  through  tortuous  and  zig-zag  leads.  So 
it  was  for  many  successive  days.  One  day  fe"  ."able, 
with  open  leads  of  water  :  another,  slow  and  wearisome, 
through  alternate  ice  and  water.  Then  the  floe  would 
break  up  and  carry  them  resistlcssly  against  the  rocks. 
Three  long  days  they  passed  in  a  cavern  of  rock  and 
ice,  in  which,  however,   they  found   plenty  of  birds' 


eggs. 


On  the  nth  they  had  doubled  Cape  Dudley  Digges, 


1 


' ''  'I 


r  tl 


'I 

It 


I 


450 


DK.   KANE'S  EXPEDITION. 


and  plants,  and  birds,  and  birds'  eggs,  became  more 
common.  They  spent  a  week  to  regain  strength  at  so 
productive  a  spot,  which  they  designated  as  "  Provi- 
dence Halt."  At  the  Crimson  Cliffs  they  again  got  a 
plentiful  supply  of  birds.  On  the  21st  of  July  thfw 
reached  Cupe  York,  and  made  immediate  preparations 
for  crossing  Melville  Bay,  which  was  accomplished 
with  great  labor  and  suffering.  Once  more  they  were 
nearly  starving,  when  a  great  seal  came  providentiall}' 
to  their  succor.  Their  feet  were  so  swollen  that  the}' 
were  obliged  to  cut  open  their  canvas  boots.  The  most 
unpleasant  symptom  was  that  they  could  not  sleep.  On 
the  1st  of  August  they  sighted  the  Devil's  Thumb. 
Hence  they  fetched  the  Duck  Islands,  and,  passing  to 
the  south  of  Cape  Shackleton,  landed  on  terra  firma. 
Two  or  three  days  more,  and  they  were  under  the 
shadow  of  Karkamoot. 

"Just  then  a  familiar  sound  came  to  us  over  the 
water.  We  had  often  listened  to  the  screeching  of 
the  gulls,  or  the  bark  of  the  fox,  and  mistaken  it  for 
the  '  Huk  '  of  the  Esquimaux  ;  but  this  had  about  it  an 
inflection  not  to  bo  mistaken,  for  it  died  away  in  the 
familiar  cadence  of  a  'halloo.' 

"  '  Listen,  Petersen  1  Oars  —  men  ?  What  is  it  ? '  and 
he  listened  quietly  at  first,  and  then,  trembling,  said,  in 
a  half-whisper,  '  Dannemarkers  ! '  " 

It  was  the  Upernavik  oil-boat,  and  the  next  day  thpy 
were  at  Upernavik  itself,  after  being  eighty-four  days 
in  the  open  air.  They  could  not  remain  within  the  four 
walls  of  a  house  without  a  distressing  sense  of  suffo- 
cation. 

From  Dr.  Kane's  report  to  the  Navy  Department  wo 
quote  the  summing  up  of  the  results  of  the  expedition. 
They  embrace  : 


I 
I 


DR.  KANE'S  EXPEDITION. 


457 


ame  more 
iigth  at  so 
ts    ''Provi- 
gain  got  a 
July  thf^v 
reparations 
;cornplislied 
J  thoy  were 
ovidcutially 
11  that  tliey 
I.    The  most 
»t  sleep.   On 
il's   Thumb. 
,,  passing  to 
terra  firma. 
e   under  the 

us  over  the 
jreeching  of 
staken  it  for 
d  about  it  an 
away  in  the 

it  is  it  ?  '  and 
lling,  said,  in 

lext  day  they 
Ity-four  days 
Ithin  the  four 
Inse  of  suFo- 

partment  we 
expedition. 


"  1.  The  survey  and  delineation  of  the  north  coast  of 
Greenland  to  its  termination  by  a  great  glacier. 

"2.  The  survey  of  this  glacial  mass,  and  its  exten- 
sion northward  into  the  new  land  named  Washington. 


"  3.  The  discovery  of  a  large  channel  to  the  north- 
west, fre.  from  ice,  and  leading  into  an  open  and 
expanding  area,  equally  free.  The  whole  embraces  an 
iccless  area  of  four  thousand  two  hundred  miles. 

"4.  The  discovery  and  delineation  of  a  large  tract  of 
land,  forming  the  extension  northward  of  the  American 
continent. 

"6.  The  completed  survey  of  the  American  coast  to 
the  south  and  west,  as  far  as  Cape  Sabine ;  thus  con- 
necting our  survey  with  the  last  determined  position  of 
Captain  Inglefield,  and  completing  the  circuit  of  the 
straits  and  bay  heretofore  known  at  their  southernmost 
opening  as  Smith's  Sound." 

The  view  of  the  open  sea  referred  to  was  obtained 
by  William  Morton,  from  a  precipitous  headland, — the 
furthest  point  attained  by  the  party,  in  latitude  81°  22' 
N.,  and  longitude  65°  35'  W.,  at  an  altitude  of  five 
hundred  feet  above  the  sea.  The  reasons  assigned  by 
our  author  for  regarding  it  an  iceless  open  sea  are  the 
following : 

"1.  It  was  approached  by  a  channel  entirely  free 
from  ice,  having  a  length  of  fifty-two  and  a  mean  width 
of  thirty-six  geographical  miles. 

**  2.  The  coast-ice  along  the  water-line  of  this  channel 
had  been  completely  destroyed  by  thaw  anf'  water- 
action  ;  while  an  unbroken  belt  of  solid  ice,  one  hundred 
and  twenty-five  miles  in  diameter,  extended  to  the 
south.  -     •, 

"  3.  A  gale  from  the  north-east,  of  fifty-four  hours' 
duration,  brought  a  heavy  sea  from  that  quarter,  with- 
out disclosing  any  drift  or  other  ice. 
.39 


458 


DR.   KANE'S  EXPEDITION. 


"4.  Dark  nimbus  clouds  and  water-sky  invested  the 
north-eastern  horizon. 

"  6.  Crowds  of  migratory  birds  were  observed  throng- 
ing its  waters." 

There  is  much  in  Dr.  Kane's  wonderful  narrative  to 
remind  the  reader  of  the  story  of  old  William  Barentz, 
who,  two  hundred  and  fifty-nine  years  ago,  wintered  on 
the  coast  of  Nova  Zembla.  His  men,  seventeen  in 
number,  broke  down  during  the  trials  of  winter,  and 
three  died,  just  as  of  the  eighteen  under  Dr.  Kane  three 
had  gone.  Barentz  abandoned  his  vessel,  as  the  Ameri- 
cans abandoned  theirs,  took  to  his  boats,  and  escaped 
along  the  Lapland  coast  to  lands  of  Norwegian  civiliza- 
tion. The  Americans  embarked  with  sledges  and  boats 
to  attempt  the  same  thing.  They  had  the  longer  jour- 
ney, and  the  more  difficult  one,  before  them.  Barentz 
lost,  as  they  did,  a  cherished  comrade  by  the  wayside. 
But  one  resemblance  luckily  does  not  exist :  Barentz 
himself  perished  —  Dr  Kane  lived  to  write  an  account  of 
all  that  he  suffered  in  a  noble  cause.  No  mere  abstract 
of  his  narrative  can  give  an  idea  of  its  absorbing  inter- 
est. 

His  book  is  above  all  common  praise,  on  account  of 
the  simple,  manly,  unaffected  style  in  which  the  nar- 
rative of  arduous  enterprise  and  firm  endurance  is  told. 
It  is  obviously  a  faithful  record  of  occurrences,  made  by 
a  man  who  was  quite  aware  ^hat  what  he  had  to  tell 
needed  no  extraneous  embellishment.  There  is,  how- 
ever, so  much  of  artistic  order  in  the  mind  of  the  nar- 
rator, that  the  unvarnished  record  has  naturally  shaped 
itself  into  a  work  of  distinguished  excellence  upon 
literary  grounds.  The  scenes  which  it  describes  are 
so  vividly  and  vigorously  brought  before  the  reader, 
that  there  are  few  who  sit  down  to  the  perusal  of  the 
narrative  but  will  fancy,  before  they  rise  from  the  en- 


DR.   KANE'S  EXPEDITION. 


459 


nvested  the 
:ved  throng- 
narrative  to 
am  Barentz, 
wintered  ou 
leventeen  in 
winter,  and 
•.  Kane  three 
IS  the  Aineri- 
and  escaped 
;gian  civiliza- 
res  and  boats 
I  longer  jour- 
jm.      Barentz 
the  wayside, 
iist:    Barentz 
an  account  of 
mere  abstract 
sorbing  inter- 

m  account  of 
Ihich  the  nar- 
irance  is  told, 
ices,  made  by 
ie  had  to  tell 
lere  is,  how- 
Id  of  the  nar- 
irally  shaped 
lellence    upon 
Idescribes  are 
the  reader, 
perusal  of  the 
from  the  en- 


grossing occupation,  their  own  flesh  paralyzed  by  the 
cold  one  hundred  degrees  greater  than  frost,  and  their 
blood  scurvy-filled  by  the  four  months'  sunlessness. 

It  is  only  just  also  to  remark,  that  there  is  unmistak- 
able evidence,  in  the  pages  of  this  interesting  book,  that 
the  doctor  was  no  less  eminently  gifted  for  the  duties 
of  his  command  than  he  has  been  happy  in  his  relation 
of  its  histor3^  Every  step  in  his  arduous  path  seems  to 
have  been  taken  only  after  the  exercise  of  deliberately 
matured  forethought.  A  few  illustrations  must  be 
gleaned,  from  the  many  that  are  scattered  through  the 
pages  of  his  journal,  to  direct  attention  to  thishonor:;Me 
characteristic.  When  the  doctor  had  formed  his  own 
resolution  to  remain  by  the  brig  through  the  second 
winter,  he  made  the  following  entry,  under  the  date  of 
August  22  :  "I  shall  call  the  officers  and  crew  together, 
and  make  known  to  them,  very  fully,  how  things  look, 
and  what  hazards  must  attend  such  an  effort  as  has 
been  proposed  among  them.  They  shall  have  my  views 
unequivocally  expressed,  i  will  then  give  them  twenty- 
four  hours  to  deliberate  ;  and,  at  the  end  of  that  time, 
all  who  determine  to  go  shall  say  so  in  writing,  wuh  a 
full  exposition  of  the  circumstances  of  the  case.  They 
shall  have  the  best  outfit  I  can  give,  an  abundant  share 
of  our  remnant  stores,  and  my  good-by  blessing." 
,  On  the  6th  of  April  the  Esquimaux  auxiliary,  Hans, 
was  gone  to  Etah,  with  a  sledge,  to  seek  a  supply  of 
walrus-meat,  when,  as  we  have  already  stated,  William 
Godfrey  deserted  from  the  ship  ;  and,  the  commander 
suspected,  with  some  sinister  design  upon  Hans  and  the 
sledge.  Dr.  Kane  then  wrote  :  "  Clearly,  duty  to  this 
poor  boy  calls  me  to  seek  him  ;  and,  clearly,  duty  to 
these  dependent  men  calls  me  to  stay.  Long  and 
uncomfortably  have  I  pondered  over  these  opposing 
calls,  but  at  last  have  come  to  a  determination.     Hans 


460 


DR.   KANE'S  EXPEDITION. 


"'f 


I 


was  faithful  to  me  ;  the  danger  to  him  is  imminent,  the 
danger  to  those  left  behind  only  contingent  upon  my 
failure  to  return.  With  earnest  trust  in  that  same 
Supervising  Agency  which  has  so  often  before,  in 
graver  straits,  interfered  to  protect  and  carry  me 
through,  I  have  resolved  to  go  after  Hans." 

The  Esquimaux  lad  was  proof  both  against  the  vio- 
lence and  the  seduction  of  the  deserter.  The  com- 
mander found  him  invalided,  but  safe,  at  Etah.  Hans, 
however,  did  not  return  to  Fiskernaes  with  the  expedi- 
tion. His  fate  is  involved  in  romance.  Venus  Victrix 
has  a  representative  even  in  frost-land.  The  reader  must 
go  to  the  pages  of  Dr.  Kane  to  know  what  became  of 
Hans. 

When  the  preparations  for  the  final  escape  were 
under  consideration,  the  following  record  was  made  in 
the  doctor's  journal :  "  Whatever  of  executive  ability  I 
have  picked  up  during  this  brain-and-body-wcarying 
cruise  warns  me  against  immature  preparation  or  vacil- 
lating purposes,  I  must  have  an  exact  discipline,  a 
rigid  routine,  and  a  perfectly  thought-out  organization. 
For  the  past  six  weeks  I  have,  in  the  intervals  between 
my  duties  to  the  sick  and  the  ship,  arranged  the  sched- 
ule of  our  future  course  ;  much  of  it  is  already  under 
way.  My  journal  shows  what  I  have  done,  but  what 
there  is  to  do  is  appalling."  Appalling  as  it  was,  the 
heroic  man  who  had  to  look  the  necessity  in  the  face 
was  equal  to  the  position.  There  can  be  no  doubt  that 
it  was  "the  exact  discipline,  the  rigid  routine,  and  the 
perfectly  thought-out  organization,^^  which  restored  the 
sixteen  survivors  of  the  expedition  to  civilization  and 
their  homes.  , 


^'^^m 


'V,.|. 


linent,  the 

upon  my 
that  same 
before,   in 

carry   me 

ast  the  vio- 
The  corn- 
tab.     Hans, 
,  the  expedi- 
enus  Victrix 
reader  must 
tt  became  of 

escape  were 
was  made  in 
ative  ability  I 
,ody-wcarying 
■ation  or  vacil- 
discipUne,   a 
organization. 
>rvals  between 
ged  the  sched- 
already  under 
lone,  but  what 
as  it  was,  the 
^ty  in  the  face 
no  doubt  that 
mtine,  and  the 
„i  restored  the 
[ivilization  and 


CHAPTER  XX. 

ACTION  OP  CONGRESS. — RELIEF  EXPEDITION  IN  SEARCH  OP  DR.  KANE. — 
HARTSTEIN  THE  COMMANDER. — -ICE  ENCOUNTERS. — SEARCHES. — THE 
LOST   FOUND.  —  NARRATIVE  BY  JOHN  K.  KANE.  —  ICEBERGS.  —  BIRDS.  — 

'  ESQUIMAUX.  —  THE  MEETING.  —  THE  RESOLUTE. — FOUND  BY  AMERICAN 
■WHALERS.  —  INTERNATIONAL  COURTESIES.  —  DEMAND  FOR  NEW  EXPE- 
DITIONS. —  SPECULATIONS. 

The  apprehensions  caused  at  home,  by  the  detention 
of  Dr.  Kane  and  his  party,  produced  a  resolution  of 
Congress,  approved  February  3d,  1855,  authorizing  the 
Secretary  of  the  Navy  to  despatch  a  suitable  steamer 
and  tender  for  the  relief  of  the  absent  voyagers.  The 
bark  Release  and  the  steamer  Arctic  were  accordingly 
procured  and  equipped,  Lieut.  Hartstein  having  been 
appointed  to  the  command.  He  was  accompanied  by  a 
brother  of  Dr.  Kane.  They  reached  Lievely,  Isle  of  Disco, 
Greenland,  July  5th,  1855,  having  encountered  the  first 
iceberg  in  latitude  51°  30'  north,  longitude  51°  40'  west. 
With  seaman-like  generosity,  Hartstein,  in  his  letter 
from  this  place  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Navy,  says  :  "  To 
avoid  further  risk  of  human  life,  in  a  search  so  extremely 
hazardous,  I  would  suggest  the  impropriety  of  making 
any  efforts  to  relieve  us  if  we  should  not  return  ;  feeling 
confident  that  we  shall  be  able  to  accomplish  all  neces- 
sary for  our  own  release,  under  the  most  extraordinary 
circumstances." 

Entering  the  closely-packed  floe  of  Melville  Bay,  the 
39* 


! 
I 


4G2 


THE  KANE  RELIEF  EXPEDITION. 


1  5 


??  '  i 


relief  vessels  forced  a  passage  into  the  North  Water 
on  the  morning  of  the  13th  of  August.  Passing  in  good 
view  of  the  coast  from  Cape  York  to  Wolstenholme 
Island,  Ilartstein,  in  the  steamer,  examined  Cape  Alex- 
ander and  Sutherland  Island.  Passing  on  to  the  most 
north  ^. 'estorn  point  in  sight  (Point  Pelham),  he  noticed 
a  few  stones  heaped  together,  which,  on  examination, 
gave  assurance  of  Kane's  having  been  there  ;  but  no 
clue  was  afforded.  Pushing  on  to  latitude  '18°  32'  north, 
the  steamer  was  opposed  by  a  solid,  hummocky  field  of 
very  heavy  ice,  to  which  no  limit  was  visible,  inter- 
spersed as  it  was  with  bergs,  all  drifting  to  the  south- 
ward. Taking  now  a  retrograde  course,  they  examined 
Cape  Ilathertou  and  Littleton  Island,  and  finally  took 
refuge  under  a  projecting  point,  some  fifteen  miles  north- 
west of  Cape  Alexander.  Here  they  were  startled  by 
the  hail  of  human  voices.  Going  on  shore,  they  found  a 
party  of  Esquimaux,  and  among  them  various  articles 
that  must  have  belonged  to  Dr.  Kane  and  his  men.  An 
examination  of  the  most  intelligent  of  the  natives  led  to 
the  understanding  that  Dr.  Kane,  having  lost  his  vessel 
somewhere  to  the  north,  had  been  at  that  spot,  with  his 
interpreter  (Carl  Petersen),  and  seventeen  others,  in 
two  boats  and  a  sled,  and,  after  remaining  ten  days,  had 
gone  south  to  Upernavik. 

After  some  more  reconnoitring  of  the  coast.  Hart- 
stein,  in  the  Arctic,  found  himself  firmly  beset  by  the 
ice,  and  thought,  for  a  time,  he  was  in  winter  quarters  ; 
but,  after  twenty-four  hours'  heavy  battering,  he  got 
out.  After  having  made  nearly  the  whole  circuit  of  the 
northern  part  of  Baffin's  Bay,  with  the  exception  of  a 
deep  ice-locked  indentation  between  Capes  Cowbermere 
and  Isabella,  he  returned,  and,  in  cor^-^any  with  the 
Release,  examined  Possession  Bay  auv.  Pond's  Bay, 
firing  guns,  burning  blue-lights,  and  throwing  up  rock- 


{  % 


Mil.   J.    K.    KANE'S  NARRATIVE. 


463 


1  Water 
in  good 

;enholme 

,pe  Alex- 

the  most 

e  noticed 

minalion, 
;  but  no 

32'  north, 

y  field  of 

Die,  iiiter- 

;he  south- 
examined 

nally  took 

liles  north- 

tartled  by 

ey  found  a 

us  articles 
men.     An 

jves  led  to 

his  vessel 

,t,  with  his 

others,  in 

days,  had 

bast,  Hart- 
[set  by  the 
quarters  ; 
ig,  he  got 
pcuit  of  the 
eption  of  a 
[owbermere 
with  the 
bnd's  Bay, 
ig  up  rock- 


ets. He  now  determined  to  proceed  to  Upernavik,  and, 
if  he  did  not  there  find  the  missing  party,  to  proceed 
north  again,  and  winter  in  the  ice.  This  was  soon  found 
to  be  unnecessary.  At  Lievely  the  missing  party  were 
received  with  many  welcomes  on  board  the  vessels  sent 
for  tlieir  relief.  We  will  leave  it  to  Mr.  John  K.  Kane, 
the  brother  of  the  doctor,  to  narrate,  in  his  animated 
account  of  the  relief  expedition,  the  iniiiincr  and  the  inci- 
dents of  the  encounter.  The  article,  portions  of  which 
we  quote,  was  originally  contributed  to  Putnarri's  Mag- 
azine; and  conveys,  in  a  novel  and  spirited  style,  much 
interesting  description  and  information  in  regard  to  the 
latitudes  visited. 

At  Etah  the  relief  expedition  came  in  contact  with 
the  Esquimaux  who  had  befriended  Dr.  Kane  ;  and  Mr. 
J.  K.  Kane  selected  one  of  the  most  forward  and  intel- 
ligent of  the  natives,  a  boy  named  Mayouk,  and  endeav- 
ored by  signs  to  get  some  information  from  him.  We 
present  the  following  in  Mr.  Kane's  own  words  : 

"  Mayouk  was  very  quick  in  understanding  us,  and 
equally  ready  in  inventing  modes  of  conveying  intelli- 
gence. Lead-pencil  and  paper  were  called  into  requisi- 
tion. I  took  out  my  note-book,  drew  a  rough  sketch 
of  a  brig,  and  showed  it  to  him.  He,  at  once,  said 
'  Dokto  Kayen,'  and  pointed  to  the  north.  I  tiien  drew 
a  reversed  sketch,  and  pointed  south.  But  Mayouk, 
shaking  his  head,  began  to  sway  his  body  backward 
and  forward,  to  imitate  rowing ;  then  said  Dokto 
Kayen  again,  and  pointed  south.  On  this,  I  drew 
a  whole  fleet  of  boats,  and  invited  him  to  point  out 
how  many  of  these  he  referred  to.  He  took  the  pencil 
from  my  hand,  and  altered  the  sterns  of  two  into  sharp- 
pointed  ones,  and  then  held  up  two  fingers,  to  indicate 
that  there  were  two  of  such.  I  now  drew  carefully  two 
whale-boats  ;  he  made  signs  of  approval,  as  much  as  to 


j  i 


464 


MR.   J.   K.    KANE'S  NARRATIVE. 


h*' 


say  tliat  was  the  thing ;  and,  incontinently  squatting 
down,  imitated  the  voice  and  gestures  of  a  dog-driver, 
cracking  an  imaginary  whip,  and  crying  hup-hup-hup, 
at  the  top  of  his  voice.  After  which  performance,  he 
laughed  immoderately,  and,  again  pointing  south,  said 
Dokto  Kayen.  •      .    ■ 

"  I  was  not  certain  as  to  his  meaning  ;  but,  on  my 
drawing  a  picture  of  a  dog-team,  ho  went  through  the 
whole  performance  afresh,  and  showed  the  most  extrav- 
agant signs  of  delight  at  being  understood.  We  found 
out  how  many  dog-sledges  and  how  many  men  there 
were  of  the  doctor's  party,  in  the  same  mtJiner.  We 
examined  several  other  natives  separately,  and  they  all 
told  the  same  story  ;  nor  could  wc  confuse  them  as  to 
the  number  of  men  and  boats  ;  they  were  all  clear  on 
that  head.  Nineteen,  they  made  it,  neither  more  nor 
less.  We  tried  our  best  to  make  them  say  that  the 
boats  had  gone  north,  and  the  vessel  south  ;  but  with- 
out success.  Mayouk,  on  one  occasion,  being  hard 
pressed,  stopped  his  ears,  so  as,  at  least,  to  secure  him- 
self from  being  supposed  to  assent  to  what  he  had  not 
learning  or  language  enough  to  controvert. 

"  At  length,  a  bright  thought  struck  him.  He  ran 
down  to  tliC  beach,  and  got  two  white  stones  ;  laid 
them  on  Lhe  ground,  and,  pointing  to  the  floating 
masses  of  ice  in  the  bay,  signified  to  us  that  these  rep- 
resented the  ice.  Next,  he  took  a  common  clay  pipe 
of  Mr.  Lovell's,  and,  pointing  to  the  north,  said,  vomiak 
Booak,  or  big  ship,  '  vomiak  sooak,  Dokto  Kayen.'  lie 
next  pushed  the  pipe  up  between  the  pebbles,  and  then 
pressed  them  together  till  the  pipe  was  crushed.  Lastly, 
he  poinlod  to  the  south,  and  began  imitating  the  rowing 
of  a  boat,  the  cracking  of  whips,  and  the  hup-hupping 
of  a  dog-driver,  vociferating,  at  intervals,  *  Dokto  Kayen, 
he  I  he  I  he  I '     We  tried  our  best  io  find  out  how  long 


MR.  J.   K.    KANE'S  NARRATIVE. 


4G5 


it  had  been  since  ilio  D<ikto  Kayons  Imd  loft  thorn,  for 
it  was  eviikMit  that  tliis  was  their  name  lor  the  whole 
party  ;  but  wo  could  not  make  them  understand.  Tliny 
would  only  toll  us  that  their  guests  had  been  with  them 
for  some  time.  This  they  did  by  pointing  to  the  south, 
and  then  following  the  track  of  the  sun  till  it  reached 
the  north  ;  then,  after  stretching  themselves  out  on  the 
ground,  and  closing  their  eyes,  as  if  in  sleep,  would 
again  point  to  the  south,  rise  up,  go  down  to  the  lake 
and  protend  to  wash  their  faces.  The  gesture  lay  in 
pretence  only,  however,  for  they  seemed  to  regard  the 
washing  of  the  Dokto  Kayens  as  a  remarkable  religious 
observance.  It  certainly  was  not  one  which  had  been 
practically  ingrafted  into  their  own  formulary  of  good 
works.  These  unsophisticated  children  of  the  frost-land 
never  wash  off  dirt,  for  the  simple  reason  that  of  dirt, 
as  such,  they  have  no  conception  or  idea. 

"  Improvidence  is  another  trait  of  these  '  fresh  chil- 
dren of  impulse.'  We  were  at  their  village  as  late  as 
the  19th  of  August.  Yet,  although  the  auks  wore  flying 
round  them  in  such  quantities  that  one  man  could  have 
been  able  to  catch  a  thousand  an  hour,  they  had  not 
enough  prepared  for  winter  to  last  two  days.  They 
were  all  disgustingly  fat,  and  always  eating,  —  perhaps 
an  average  ration  of  eighteen  pounds  per  diem, — yet 
they  had  lost  seven  by  starvation  during  the  last  winter, 
though  relieved,  as  far  as  we  could  make  it  out,  by  the 
Dokto  Kayens. 

"  They  suffer  dreadfully  from  cold,  too  ;  yet  there  is 
an  abundance  of  excellent  peat,  which  they  might  dig 
during  the  summer.  They  know  its  value  as  fuel,  and 
are  simply  too  lazy  to  stack  it.  The  little  auk,  which 
forms  their  principal  food,  may  be  said  also  to  be  their 
only  fuel.  Indeed,  it  quite  fills  the  place  which  the 
seal  holds  among  the  more  southern  Esquimaux.     Their 


400 


MR.  J.   K.   KANE'S  NARRATIVE. 


clothes  ar(3  liiu^d  witli  its  skins,  they  burn  the  fat,  and, 
sotting  aHJdo  the  liveiH  and  hearts,  to  bo  (h'ied,  and  con- 
sumed as  bonbu}it<  duriiij^  the  winter,  they  cat  the  meat 
and  intestines  cooked  and  raw,  both  cold  and  at  blood 
heat. 

"  They  arc  very  hospitable  ;  the  minulo  wo  arrived, 
all  hands  bcg-an  to  catch  birds  and  prepare  them  for  us. 
Tearing  olf  tiic  skins  with  their  teeth,  they  stripped  the 
breasts  to  be  cooked,  and  presented  us  with  tiie  juicy 
entrails  and  nMiiaining  portions  to  eat  raw,  and  stay 
our  aj)petites.  The  viands  did  not  look  inviting  to  us, 
who  had  witnessed  their  preparation  ;  but  they  appeared 
so  hurt  at  our  refusing  to  eat,  that  we  had  to  explain 
that  it  was  not  cooked  but  raw  birds  we  wanted.  This 
was  satisfactory.  They  set  out  at  once  to  catch  some 
for  us  ;  and  in  a  few  moments  three  of  them  were  ou 
their  way  down  to  our  boat  loaded  with  birds. 

"  Though  all  the  natives  had  told  us  that  Dr.  Kane's 
party  had  gone  southwards  after  leaving  their  settle- 
ment, still  wo  were  far  from  certain  that  they  had  con- 
tinued their  progress  m  that  direction,  and  Captain 
Ilartstein  was  for  some  time  in  doubt  as  to  tho  course 
which  we  ought  to  pursue  ;  whether  we  should  return 
at  once  to  Upernavik  by  our  old  track,  or  run  across 
the  bay  and  examine  its  western  coast.  He  finally 
determined  on  the  latter,  believing  that,  if  Dr.  Kane 
and  his  party  had  gone  down  the  eastern  coast,  they 
would  by  this  time  either  have  been  lost  in  Melville 
Bay,  or  safely  arrived  at  Upernavik  ;  while,  on  the 
contrary,  if  they  had  tried  to  reach  the  English  fleet  in 
Lancaster  Sound,  being  ignorant  of  its  desertion,  they 
might  be  there  now  in  a  starving  condition. 

"  We  reached  Cape  Alexander  without  any  incident 
worthy  of  note,  and,  after  searching  its  barren  rocks  to 
no  purpose,  built  a  cairn,  and  in  it  deposited  the  record 


Mil.   J.   K.   KANE'S  NAUUATIVE. 


467 


fat,  and, 

arul  con- 

the  meat 

at  blood 

arrived, 

in  for  U8. 
ippod  tho 
iho  juicy 

and  stay 
lug;  to  us, 

appeared 
to  explain 
ted.  This 
itch  some 
u  were  ou 

)r.  Kane's 
cir  settle- 
7  had  con- 
Captain 
he  course 
Id  return 
un  across 
|Ie  finally 
Dr.  Kane 
last,  they 
Melville 
on   the 
ih  fleet  in 
ion,  they 

incident 

rocks  to 

le  record 


of  our  want  of  huccohh.  Wc  next  ran  down  to  Suther- 
land iHland,  took  up  our  now  useless  fla^-slaff,  and  tore 
down  tho  cairn  we  had  {)lac('d  there  on  our  way  up. 
There  was  a  poor  little  wliite  fox  wat<;hin^  us  from  tho 
rocks  above,  while  we  were  at  work,  evidently  wonder- 
iuff  what  it  all  meant.  lie  came  so  ch)se  that  wo  could 
have  knocked  him  down  with  a  boat-hook,  but  we  let 
him  alone  ;  we  win'o,  not  short  of  provisions,  and  had 
no  time  to  convert  him  into  a  specnnen. 

"  We  pushed  on  throup^h  rain  atid  i'og  to  Ilakluyt 
Island,  where  we  found  our  comrades  of  the  Release, 
and  spent  a  few  hurried  hours  in  their  company. 

"Thanxl  anoiv,  that  Dr.  Kane  has  described  in  his 
narrative,  was  abundant  here  ;  and  wherever  between 
the  ledges  of  the  rock  there  was  a  chance  for  soil,  a 
tiny  little  horseradish  sprang  up  ambitiously  through 
the  frost,  with  leaves  no  bigger  than  your  thumb-nail. 
The  miniature  plant,  flower,  root,  and  all,  might  have 
filled  a  very  moderate  tea-cup.  -  «* 

"  It  is  hardly  worth  while  to  tell  of  our  efibrts  to  find 
Captain  Inglefield's  Esquimaux  settlement  in  Whale 
Sound.  It  was  the  old  story  of  fog  and  drizzle,  ice  and 
sleet.  We  gave  it  up,  and,  taking  the  Release  in  tow, 
bent  our  course  for  Lancaster  Sound. 

"  But  the  ice,  the  everlasting  ice  I  We  were  more 
than  two  hundred  miles  off  when  it  caught  us.  It  was 
lieavier  than  any  we  had  seen  even  in  Melville  Bay. 
For  some  days  it  held  us  like  flies  in  amber,  in  spite  of 
sails,  with  now  and  then  a  puff  to  fill  them,  and  all  the 
steam  that  Newell  could  raise  in  his  boiler.  It  was, 
indeed,  a  mercy  that  a  gale  caught  us  at  last,  or  we 
might  have  been  there  still.  We  drove  before  it,  the 
ice  keeping  us  company,  as  if  loth  to  lose  us,  and,  find- 
ing that  we  could  not  reach  Cape  Isabella,  made  a 
detour  to  Possession  Bay. 


468 


MR.  J.   K.   KANE'S  NARRAHVE. 


f) 


' 


1 

I     ! 

h 


'if  f 


Ih 


i\i 


!;f 


"  Pond's  Bay,  as  it  is  called,  seemed  to  all  of  us  noth- 
ing else  but  an  extension  of  Admiralty  Inlet.  We  kept 
along  its  north  coast  for  thirty-five  miles,  and  could 
see,  perhaps,  forty  miles  further,  but  without  finding  its 
westernmost  shore.  A  visit  to  an  Esquimaux  village, 
some  twenty  miles  up  the  bay,  was  the  only  incident. 
The  men,  with  a  single  exception,  were  out  on  their 
hunting-parties  ;  but  the  women  were  there,  at?  commu- 
nicative in  their  unknown  dialect  as  any  we  had  met  of 
the  grosser  sex.  They  were  certainly  no  beauties,  and 
their  costume  was  a  little  extravagant  even  for  the 
Esquimaux  fashions,  as  we  had  seen  them.  They  had 
their  faces  tattooed  with  lampblack,  in  a  set  of  dotted 
lines,  radiating  from  the  corners  of  the  mouth  ;  and  their 
very  long  wide  boots  were  hitched,  awkwardly  enough, 
by  a  loop  to  the  v/aistband  of  their  seal-skin  trousers. 

"  They  appeared  to  be  of  a  superior  race  to  the 
Greenland  natives.  They  were  larger  and  stronger, 
their  kayaks  were  better  built,  and  they  had  much  more 
roomy  tents. 

"  The  whole  of  Pond's  Bay  showed  one  dreary,  in- 
hospitable coast-line.  We  were  all  of  us  glad  when 
our  comm^ander  gave  the  order  to  make  for  the  eastern 
coast  of  Baffin's  Bay.  ■  ■  \  * 

"  We  had  an  eight-knot  breeze,  and  were  not  more 
than  two  hundred  miles  from  Upernavik.  There  was 
every  chance  of  the  wind  continuing,  so  that  we  confi- 
dently expected  to  reach  that  port  in  the  course  of  the 
week.  We  thought  we  were  to  the  southward  of  the 
pack  ;  and  the  heavy  sea,  which  made  us  all  sea-sick 
after  our  long  exemption  from  rough  water,  strengthened 
this  conviction.  But  we  wero  mistaken.  The  very 
next  day  it  was  before  us,  an  impenetrable  barrier. 
There  was  no  help  for  it ;  we  had  to  run  further  to  the 
south  —  how  much  further  it  was  hardly  worth  while  to 


MR.   J.   K.   KANES  NARRATIVE. 


469 


guoss.  It  was  no  very  difficult  matter,  you  would 
think,  to  run  along  the  edge  of  the  ice  till  we  came  to 
the  end  of  it,  and  then  run  across.  But  this  ice  had  all 
the  irregularities  of  a  coast :  large  inlets  and  bays  run- 
ning into  it,  and  capes  projecting  just  where  you  do  not 
expect  to  meet  them  ;  and,  over  and  over  again,  after 
running  for  a  whole  day,  just  as  we  were  sure  we  had 
reached -its  southern  boundary,  we  would  find  ourselves 
in  a  cul-de-sac,  with  the  ice  on  both  sides  of  us.  At 
last  we  came  to  a  dead  halt.  We  were  fairly  in  the 
pack  —  it  was  before  us,  behind  us,  and  on  both  sides 
of  us. 

"  Day  after  day  passed,  and  we  found  we  were  drift- 
ing to  the  south,  fairly  glued  in.  There  are  only  two 
incidents  that  I  speak  of  in  or  about  this  pleasant  little 
travel.  One  was  just  as  it  began.  It  was  a  meeting 
with  an  ancient  whaler,  the  Eclipse,  of  Peterhead,  with 
a  jolly  old  Captain  Gray,  who  insisted  on  all  hands 
making  a  trial  of  a  regular  Scotchman's  hospitality,  and 
tossed  half  a  dozen  hams  after  us  into  the  boat,  when 
we  refused  to  take  the  half  of  his  cabin  stores.  The 
other  was  the  gale  that  ended  it.  It  was  less  pleasant 
at  the  time  ;  but,  like  some  other  things  that  I  have 
met  with  in  this  world,  its  effects  were  better  than  its 
promise.  What  a  night  it  was  I  The  bark  ran  into  an 
iceberg,  and  came  very  near  being  lost.  She  fired 
thirteen  guns  for  assistance,  but  the  crashing  and  grind- 
ing was  so  tremendous  that,  though  we  were  not  three 
quarters  of  a  mile  off,  and  the  wind  was  blowing  directly 
towards  us,  we  did  not  hear  one  of  them.  I  never  shall 
forget  the  melancholy  figure  she  presented  on  joining 
us  next  morning.  We  felt  quite  a  glow  of  sympathy 
for  the  poor  Release,  till  Captain  Ilartstein's  hailing  our 
steamer  with  the  information  thut  our  cutwater  looked 
40 


I  i 


470 


MR.  J.   K.   KANE'S  NARIIAIIVE. 


like  a  prize-fighter's  nose.  We  then  remembered  that 
we,  too,  had  a  night  of  it, 

"  After  this  gale  we  had  little  or  no  more  trouble 
with  the  ice  ;  one  or  two  trifling  detentions  of  a  few 
days  brought  us  to  the  open  water.  We  had  drifted  so 
fur  to  the  south  that  Lievely  was  nearer  than  Upernavik, 
and  Captain  Ilartstein  determined  to  put  in  there.  We 
had  a  heavy  gale  the  night  after  we  left  the  ice  ;  but  so 
glad  were  we  all  to  get  clear  of  it,  that  I  heard  no  com- 
plaints about  rough  weather.  It  cleared  away  beauti- 
fully towards  morning,  and  we  were  all  on  the  deck, 
admiring  the  clear  water,  and  the  fantastic  shapes  of 
the  water- washed  icebergs.  All  hands  were  in  high 
spirits  ;  the  gale  had  blown  in  the  right  direction,  and 
in  a  few  hours  we  should  be  in  Lievely.  The  rocks  of 
its  land-locked  harbor  were  already  in  sight.  We  were 
discussing  our  news  by  anticipation,  when  the  man  in 
the  crow's  nest  cried  out,  '  A  brig  in  the  harbor  ! '  and 
the  next  minute,  before  we  had  time  to  congratulate 
each  other  on  the  chance  of  sending  letters  home,  that 
she  had  hoisted  American  colors  —  a  delicate  compli- 
ment, we  thought,  on  the  part  of  our  friends,  the 
Danes. 

''I  believe  our  captain  was  about  to  return  it,  when, 
to  our  surprise,  she  hoisted  another  flag,  the  veritable 
one  which  had  gone  ou'  with  the  Advance,  bearing  the 
name  of  Mr.  Henry  Grinnell.  At  the  same  moment, 
two  boats  were  seen  rounding  the  point,  and  pulling 
towards  us.  Did  they  contain  our  lost  friends  ?  Yes  ; 
the  sailors  had  settled  that.  '  Those  are  Yankees,  sir  ; 
no  Danes  ever  feathered  their  oars  that  way,'  said  an 
old  whaler  to  me.  '  vv' 

"  For  those  who  had  friends  among  the  missing  party, 
the  few  minutes  that  followed  were  of  bitter  anxiety  ; 
for  the  men  in  the  boats  were  long-bearded  and  weather- 


MR.  J.    K.  KANE'S  NARRATIVE. 


471 


beaten  ;  they  had  strange,  wild  costumes  ;  there  wus 
no  possibility  of  recognition.  Dr.  Kane,  standing  up- 
right in  the  stern  of  the  first  float,  with  his  spy-glass 
slung  round  his  neck,  was  the  first  identified  ;  then  the 
big  form  of  Mr.  Brooks  ;  in  another  moment  uU  hands 
of  them  were  on  board  of  us. 

"It  was  curious  to  watch  the  eflects  of  the  excite- 
ment in  diflerent  people,  — the  intense  quietude  of  some, 
the  boisterous  delight  of  others  ;  how  one  man  would 
become  intensely  loquacious,  another  would  do  nothing 
but  laugh,  and  a  third  would  creep  away  to  some  out- 
of-the-way  corner,  as  if  he  were  afraid  of  showing  how 
he  felt.  How  hungry  they  all  were  for  news,  and  how 
eagerly  they  tore  open  the  home  letters  ;  most  of  them, 
poor  fellows,  had  pleasant  tidings,  and  all  were  pre- 
pared to  make  the  best  of  bad  ones.  We  were  in  the 
harbor,  with  a  fleet  of  kayaks  dancing  in  welcome 
around  and  behind  us,  before  the  greetings  were  half 
ended,  for  they  repeated  themselves  over  ana  over 
again.  Sr=.,'.:. 

"  Our  old  friend,  Mr.  Olrik,  was  with  the  new  comers, 
and  as  happy  as  the  rest.  His  hospitality,  when  we 
reached  the  shore,  was  absolutely  boundless  ;  and  his 
house  and  table  were  always  at  our  service.  Altogether, 
I  never  passed  three  more  delightful  days  than  those 
last  days  at  Lievely.  Balls  every  night ;  feasts  and 
junketings  every  day  ;  and,  pleasantest  of  all,  those 
dear  home-like  tea-tables,  with  shining  tea-urn  and  clear, 
white  sugar,  round  which  we  sat,  waiting  for  the  water 
to  boil,  and  talking  of  Russia  and  the  Czar,  and  the 
world  outside  the  Circle  ;  while  Mrs.  Olrik  would  look 
up  from  her  worsted-work,  and  the  children  pressed 
round  me  to  see  the  horses  and  dogs  I  was  drawing  for 
them.  It  was  enough  to  make  one  forget  his  red  flannel 
shirt  and  rough  Arctic  rig ;  Melville  Bay  and  the  pack 


472 


MR.  J.  K.  KANE'S   NARRATIVE. 


n 


seemed  fables.  The  Danish  doctor,  too,  arrived  from 
Fiskernaes,  a  very  intelligent  gentleman,  and  we  talked 
away  bravely  to  him  in  bad  Latin.  He  brought  us  a 
present  of  reindeer-meat, — a  new  dish  for  some  of  us, 
tasting  like  a  cross  between  Virginia  mountain  mutton 
and  our  Pennsylvania  red  deer.  .    .  »      • 

But  our  stay  in  Lievely  ended.  The  propeller  got 
up  steam,  and,  taking  our  bark  and  the  Danish  brig 
Marianne  in  tow,  steamed  out  of  the  harbor.  All  the 
inhabitants  of  the  town  were  on  the  shore  to  see  the 
last  of  us.  Our  visit  had  been  as  memorable  an  incident 
to  them  as  to  ourselves.  Where  ten  dollars  is  a  large 
marriage  dower,  Jack's  liberality  of  expenditure  seemed 
absolutely  royal.  There  were  moistened  eyes  among 
them,  for  they  are  essentially  kind-hearted  ;  and  even 
the  roar  of  our  cannon,  in  answer  to  the  Danish  salute, 
though  it  resounded  splendidly  among  the  hills,  was 
scarcely  heeded,  as  they  stood,  with  folded  arms,  watch- 
ing us  disappear  in  the  distance.  We  carried  Mr.  Olrik 
quite  out  to  sea  before  we  bade  him  good-by  ;  and  it 
was  not  until  the  next  morning  that  the  Marianne  cast 
loose. 

"  We  reached  home  without  any  incident  worthy 
of  note,  except  that  the  Esquimaux  dogs  we  had  on 
board  did  nothing  but  howl  during  the  whole  voyage, 
—  an  amiable  peculiarity,  which  still  characterizes  the 
single  specimen  of  which  I  am  at  present  the  happy 
possessor.     There  he  goes  —  I  hear  him  now." 


The  return  of  Hartstein  with  the  survivors  of  Kane's 
expedition  closes  the  record  of  the  search  for  Sir  John 
Franklin. 

Never  was  there  such  a  disastrous  state  of  things  in 
the  Arctic  regions :  six  ships  left  in  the  ice  1  The 
Investigator  at  Mercy  Bay,  the  Resolute  and  Intrepid 


FINDING   OF  THE  RESOLUTE. 


473 


at  Melville  Island,  the  Assistance  and  Pioneer  in  Wel- 
lington Channel,  and  the  Advance  in  Smith's  Sound,  to 
be  added  to  the  Erebus  and  Terror,  which  we  have 
reason  to  believe  had  been  left  years  before  somewhere 
in  the  strait  of  James  Ross.  The  Arctic  archipelagc 
was  studded  with  abandoned  ships  1        '    ^ 

None  could  have  imagined  that  any  of  these  gallant 
ships  would  ever  carry  sail  again  ;  or  that  we  might  not 
truly  say  of  each  of  them,  in  the  words  of  Dr.  Kane, 
"  The  ice  is  round  her  still," 

But  of  ore  of  these  vessels  there  is  a  further  story  to 
tell ;  'md,  as  it  recounts  a  kindly  interchange  of  courte- 
sies between  the  two  nations  which  vied  with  each  other 
in  heroic,  though  fruitless  efforts,  to  rescue  the  missing 
navigators,  it  will  form  a  pleasant  finale  to  our  narra- 
tive. 

In  the  month  of  September,  1855,  the  whaler  George 
Henry,  Captain  Buddington,  of  New  London,  Connecti- 
cut, was  drifting  along,  beset  by  the  ice,  in  Baffin's  Bay, 
when  one  morning  the  captain,  looking  through  his 
glass,  saw  a  large  ship  some  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  dis- 
tant, apparently  working  her  way  towards  him.  Day 
after  day,  while  helplessly  imprisoned  in  the  pack,  he 
watched  her  coming  nearer  and  nearer.  On  the  seventh 
day,  the  mate,  Mr.  Quail,  and  three  men,  were  sent  to 
find  out  what  she  was.  '      i'  ''  «   -'^w^s^* 

After  a  hard  day's  journey  over  the  ice,  — jumping 
from  piece  to  piece,  and  pushing  themselves  along  on 
isolated  cakes,  —  they  were  near  enough  to  see  that  she 
was  lying  on  her  larboard  side,  firmly  imbedded  in  the 
ice.  They  shouted  lustily,  as  soon  as  they  got  within 
hailing  distance  ;  but  there  was  no  answer.  Not  a  soul 
was  to  be  seen.  For  one  moment,  as  they  came  along- 
side, the  men  faltered,  with  a  superstitious  feeling,  and 
hesitated  to  go  on  board.  A  moment  after,  they  had 
40* 


47i 


FINDING  OF  THE  RESOLUTE. 


n 


climbed  over  the  broken  ice,  and  stood  on  deck.  Every- 
thing was  stowed  away  in  order — spars  hauled  up  and 
lashed  to  one  side,  boats  piled  together,  hatches  calked 
down.  Over  the  helm,  in  letters  of  brass,  was  inscribed 
the  motto  "  England  expects  every  man  to  do  his  duty." 
But  there  was  no  man  to  heed  the  warning.     .    . 

The  whalemen  broke  open  the  companion-way,  and 
descended  into  the  cabin.  All  was  silence  and  darkness. 
Groping  their  way  to  the  table,  they  found  matches  and 
candles,  and  struck  a  light.  There  were  decanters  and 
glasses  on  the  table,  chairs  and  lounges  standing  around, 
books  scattered  about  —  everything  just  as  it  had  been 
last  used.  Looking  curiously  from  one  thing  to  another, 
wondering  what  this  deserted  ship  might  be,  at  last  they 
came  upon  the  log-book.  It  was  endorsed,  "  Bark  Res- 
olute, 1st  September,  1853,  to  April,  1854."  One  entry 
was  as  follows :  '*  H.  M.  S.  Resolute,  ITth  January, 
1854,  nine  a.  m.  —  Mustered  by  divisions.  People  tak- 
ing exercise  on  deck.     Five  p.  m.  — Mercury  frozen." 

This  told  the  story.  It  was  Captain  Kellett's  ship, 
the  Resolute,  which  had  broken  away  from  her  icy 
prison,  and  had  tlius  fallen  into  the  hands  of  our  Yan- 
kee whalemen. 

While  the  men  were  making  these  discoveries,  night 
came  on,  aud  a  gale  arose.  So  hard  did  it  blow  that  they 
were  compelled  to  remain  on  board,  and  for  two  days 
these  four  were  the  whole  crew  of  the  Resolute.  It 
was  not  till  19th  September  that  they  returned  to 
their  own  ship,  and  made  their  report. 

All  these  ten  days,  since  Captain  Buddington  had 
first  seen  her,  the  vessels  had  been  nearing  each  other. 
On  the  19th  he  boarded  her  himself,  and  found  that  in 
her  hold,  on  the  larboard  side,  was  a  good  deal  of  ice. 
Her  tanks  had  burst,  from  the  extreme  cold ;  and  she 
was  f\ill  of  water,  nearly  to  her  lower  deck.   Everything 


FINDING  OF  THE  RESOLUTE. 


475 


that  could  move  from  its  place  had  moved.  Everything 
between  decks  was  wet ;  everything  that  would  mould 
was  mouldy.  "  A  sort  of  perspiration"  had  settled  on 
the  beams  and  ceilings.  The  whalemen  made  a  fire  in 
Kellett's  stove,  and  soon  started  a  sort  of  shower  from 
the  vapor  with  which  it  filled  the  air.  The  Resolute 
had,  however,  four  fine  force-pumps.  For  three  days 
the  captain  and  six  men  worked  fourteen  hours  a  day 
on  one  of  these,  and  had  the  pleasure  of  finding  that 
they  freed  her  of  water,  —  that  she  was  tight  still. 
They  cut  away  upon  the  masses  of  ice  ;  and  on  the  23d 
of  September,  in  the  evening,  she  freed  herself  from  her 
encumbrances,  and  took  an  even  keel.  This  was  off"  the 
west  shore  of  Baffin's  Bay,  in  latitude  Q1°.  On  the  short- 
est tack,  she  was  twelve  hundred  miles  from  where  Kel- 
lett  left  her. 

There  was  work  enough  still  to  be  done.  The  rudder 
was  to  be  shipped,  the  rigging  to  be  made  taut,  sail 
to  be  set ;  —  and  it  proved,  by  the  way,  that  the  sail  on 
the  yards  was  much  of  it  still  serviceable,  while  a  suit  of 
new  linen  sails  below  were  greatly  injured  by  moisture. 
In  a  week  more,  she  was  ready  to  make  sail.  The  pack 
of  ice  still  drifted  with  both  ships  ;  but,  on  the  21st  Octo- 
ber, after  a  long  north-west  gale,  the  Resolute  was  free. 

Capt.  Buddington  had  resolved  to  bring  her  home. 
He  had  picked  ten  men  from  the  George  Henry,  and 
with  a  rough  tracing  of  the  American  coast,  drawn  on  a 
sheet  of  foolscap,  with  his  lever  watch  and  a  quadrant 
for  his  instruments,  he  squared  ofi"  for  New  London. 
A  rough,  hard  passage  they  had  of  it.  The  ship's  bal- 
last was  gone,  by  the  bursting  of  the  tanks  ;  she  was 
top-heavy  and  undermanned.  He  spoke  a  British  whal- 
ing-bark, and  by  her  sent  to  Captain  Kellett  his 
epaulets,  and  to  his  own  owners  news  that  he  was 
coming.     They  had  heavy  gales  and  head  winds,  and 


476 


RETURN  OF  THE  RESOLUTE. 


m 


■11' 


i,;i 


were  driven  as  far  down  as  the  Bermudas.  The  water 
left  in  the  ship's  tanks  was  brackish,  and  it  needed  all 
the  seasoning-  which  the  ship's  chocolate  would  give  to 
make  it  drinkable.  "For  sixty  hours  at  a  time,"  says 
the  captain,  "  I  frequently  had  no  sleep  ;  "  but  his  per- 
severance was  crowned  with  success,  at  last,  and,  on 
the  night  of  the  23d  of  December,  he  made  the  light  off 
the  harbor  from  which  he  sailed,  and  on  Sunday  morn- 
ing, the  24th,  dropped  anchor  in  the  Thames,  opposite 
New  London,  and  ran  up  the  British  ensign  on  the  shorn 
masts  of  the  Resolute. 

Her  subsequent  history  is  fresh  in  the  minds  of  our 
readers.  The  British  government  generously  released 
all  their  claim  in  favor  of  the  sailors.  Thereupon,  Con- 
gress resolved  that  the  vessel  should  be  purchased  and 
restored  as  a  present  to  her  majesty  from  the  American 
people.  This  design  was  fully  carried  out.  The  Reso- 
lute was  taken  to  the  dry-dock  in  Brooklyn,  and  there 
put  in  complete  order.  Everything  on  board  —  even  the 
smallest  article  —  was  replaced  as  nearly  as  possible  in 
its  original  position  ;  and,  at  length,  having  been  manned 
and  officered  from  the  United  States  navy,  and  placed 
under  the  command  of  Captain  Hartstein,  the  Resolute, 
stanch  and  sound  again,  from  stem  to  stern,  "with 
sails  all  set  and  streamers  all  afloat,"  once  more  shaped 
her  course  for  England. 

On  the  12th  of  December,  1856,  after  a  boisterous 
passage,  she  anchored  at  Spithead,  with  the  United 
States  and  British  ensigns  flying  at  the  peak.  "  Not- 
withstanding the  furious  gale  which  was  then  raging," 
says  Captain  Hartstein,  in  his  official  report,  "  we  were 
immediately  boarded  by  Captain  Peal,  of  her  Britannic 
Majesty's  frigate  Shannon,  who  cordially  offered  to  us 
every  civility  and  attention.  In  a  few  moments  after- 
wards, a  steamer  arrived  from  Vice-Admiral  Sir  George 


RETURN   OF  THE  RESOLUTE. 


47T 


3  water 
ded  all 
give  to 
I,"  says 
his  per- 
and,  on 
ight  off 
,y  morn- 
apposite 
he  shorn 

s  of  our 
released 
lon,  Con- 
ased  and 
American 
'he  Reso- 
nd  there 
even  the 
ssible  in 
manned 
placed 
e solute, 
"with 
shaped 

)isterous 
United 

"Not- 
aging," 

e  were 
ritannic 
d  to  us 
s  after- 
George 


Seymour  (commanding  officer  of  the  station),  with  a 
tender  of  services,  and  congratulations  upon  our  safe 
arrival.  Proceeding  to  Portsmouth  next  morning  (which 
I  did  in  a  government  steamer  provided  me  for  that 
purpose),  I  visited  the  United  States  Consulate,  and 
was  there  waited  upon  by  Sir  Thomas  Maitland,  who 
had  become  commanding  officer  of  the  naval  station  in 
the  absence  of  the  admiral,  Sir  George  Seymour,  and 
received  from  him  a  most  cordial  welcome,  with  proflers 
of  every  possible  service,  by  express  instruction  from 
the  Admiralty.  Accommodations  were  prepared  for  us 
at  the  first  hotel,  and  orders  for  a  bountiful  supply  of 
provisions  to  be  sent  on  board  the  Resolute  ;  also  a 
carle  blanche  for  the  railroad  to  London  for  myself  and 
the  officers  of  the  Resolute.  In  fact,  nothing  could 
exceed  the  kindness  and  courtesy  with  which  we  were 
treated  by  Captain  Sir  Thomas  Maitland,  who  seemed 
unwilling  that  any  means  of  adding  to  his  hearty  expres- 
sions of  welcome  should  pass  unexhausted.  That  morn- 
ing's post  brought  me  a  communication  from  Sir  Charles 
Wood,  first  lord  of  the  Admiralty  (which  I  herewith 
enclose),  whose  expressions  of  kindly  feeling  1  beg  may 
be  particularly  noticed.  At  noon  of  the  day  after  our 
arrival,  a  royal  salute  was  fired  from  the  Victory  (flag- 
ship), from  the  fortifications,  and  from  the  Shannon,  at 
Spithead." 

The  Queen  having  expressed  a  wish  to  visit  the  Reso- 
lute, and  a  desire  that  the  vessel  might  be  taken  to 
Cowes,  near  her  majesty's  private  palace,  the  ship  was 
towed  thither  by  the  government  steamer,  escorted  by 
two  other  steamers,  and  the  steam-frigate  Retribution. 

Meanwhile,  the  necessary  diplomatic  formalities  had 
been  exchanged  between  the  American  minister  and 
Lord  Clarendon. 

Of  the   Queen's  visit  to   the   Resolute,  which  took 


478 


RETURN   OF  THE  RESOLUTE. 


¥.Vr. 


plase  on  the  16th  of  December,  we  quote  the  following 
description  from  the  London  Times : 

"  The  Queen,  accompanied  by  Prince  Albert,  the 
Prince  of  Wales,  the  Princess  Royal,  and  the  Princess 
Alice,  left  Osborne  at  a  quarter  past  ten  o'clock,  and 
drove  to  the  sliip  in  an  open  carriage,  drawn  by  four 
gray  ponies.  Her  majesty  was  attended  by  a  distin- 
guished suite.  The  Resolute,  dressed  in  hrr  colors, 
was  lashed  alongside  of  the  royal  embarkation  place  at 
Trinity  Wharf,  Tiie  English  and  American  flags  were 
flying  at  the  peak  ;  and,  as  soon  as  the  Queen  set  her 
foot  on  the  deck,  the  royal  standard  was  hoisted  at  the 
main.  The  Retribution  fired  a  salute,  the  boats'  crews 
'  tossed '  their  oars,  and  the  ship's  company,  standing 
on  the  rail,  received  hav  majesty  with  three  rounds  of 
cheers.  Captain  ilartstcin  received  the  royal  party  at 
the  gangway,  and  the  officers,  in  full  uniform,  were 
grouped  on  either  side.  All  were  presented  to  the 
Queen  by  Captain  Ilartstein,  who  then  addressed  her 
majesty  in  the  following  words  : 

"  '  Allow  me  to  welcome  your  majesty  on  board  the 
Resolute,  and,  in  obedience  to  the  will  of  my  country- 
men and  the  President  of  the  United  States,  to  restore 
her  to  you,  not  only  as  an  evidence  of  a  friendly  feeling 
to  your  sovereignty,  but  as  a  token  of  love,  admiration, 
and  respect,  to  your  majesty  personally.'  >■• 

"  The  Queen  seemed  touched  by  the  manly  simplicity 
of  this  frank  and  sailor-like  address,  and  replied,  with  a 
gracious  smile,  'I  thank  you,  sir.'  The  royal  family 
then  went  over  the  ship,  and  examined  her  with  manifest 
interest."  -      - 

After  the  withdrawal  of  the  royal  party,  there  was  an 
elegant  dejeuner  in  the  ward-room,  at  which,  among 
other  toasts,  was  given,  "The  future  success  of  the 
Resolute,  and  may  she  be  again  employed  in  prosecuting 


RETURN   OF  THE  RESOLUTE. 


479 


llowing 

3rt,  the 
Princess 
)ck,  and 

by  four 

I  distin- 

•  colors, 

place  at 

igs  were 

set  her 
ed  at  the 
ts'  crews 
standing 
ounds  of 
I  party  at 
)rm,  were 
id   to  the 
3ssed  her 

)oard  the 
country- 
o  restore 
y  feeling 
miration, 

Simplicity 
|d,  with  a 
il  family 
manifest 

te  was  an 
.,  among 
Is  of  the 
Isecuting 


the  search  for  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his  comrades." 
This  sentiment  evoked  cordial  applause. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  same  day,  "  I  recei^  '^d,"  saya 
Captain  Ilartstein,  "a  note,  enclosing  a  check  for  one 
hundred  pounds,  with  a  request  from  her  majesty  that 
it  should  be  distributed  among  the  crew  ;  which  I  ac- 
cepted in  their  behalf. 

"On  the  morning  of  December  Itth,  the  Resolute 
wail  towed  up  to  the  harbor  of  Portsmouth,  escorted  by 
the  steam-frigate  Retribution  ;  and,  on  arriving  at  her 
anchorage,  was  received  by  another  royal  salute,  and 
with  such  an  outburst  of  popular  feeling  as  was  never 
knovni  before."  ' 

The  British  government  and  people  were  unremitting 
in  their  attentions  to  Captain  Ilartstein  and  his  officers, 
during  their  stay  in  England.  Three  splendid  Christ- 
mas cakes  were  forwarded  by  Lady  Franklin  to  Ports- 
mouth, to  be  presented  to  the  American  officers  and 
crew.  A  passage  to  the  United  States,  in  the  British 
steamer  Retribution,  was  tendered  them.  This,  how- 
ever, it  was  thought  best  to  decline.  On  the  30th  of 
December,  1856,  the  American  flag  was  hauled  down 
on  board  the  Resolute,  when  it  was  saluted  by  the 
Victory  with  twenty-one  guns.  The  union-jack  was 
then  hoisted,  and  the  ship  was  given  up  to  the  author- 
ities. The  next  day  the  American  officers  and  crew  left 
England,  on  their  return  to  the  United  States. 

By  late  Lnglish  papers,  we  learn  that  the  Queen  has 
commissioned  Mr.  William  Simpson,  the  artist  of  the 
Crimean  war,  to  paint  for  her  private  gallery  a  picture 
of  the  "Reception"  on  board  the  Resolute  —  a  very 
graceful  memorial  of  a  most  interesting  act  of  interna- 
tional courtesy. 

While  we  write,  the  expediency  of  sending  out  still 
other  expeditions  is  discussed  in  England.     "  There  is 


480 


ARCTIC  EXPLORATIONrf. 


now  little  or  no  doubt,"  sayH  the  United  Service  Jour- 
nal, "as  to  the  intention  of  the  goverrimorit  to  despatch 
final  expeditions  in  search  of  further  traces  of  Sir  John 
Franklin.  Tliey  will  probably  consist  of  three  parties : 
one  overland,  another  by  the  way  of  Behring's  Strait, 
and  a  third  by  the  way  of  Davis's  Strait  and  Baffin's 
Bay." 

Here  terminates  our  history  of  Arctic  adventure  and 
exploration.  The  results  hitherto  obtained  are  alto- 
gether different  from  those  of  a  pecuniary  nature. 
Through  their  means,  the  astronomer,  the  geographer, 
the  physicist,  the  naturalist,  the  chemist,  and  science 
at  large,  have  acquired  facts  which  could  have  been 
gained  in  no  other  way.  The  cost  has  been  great ;  the 
cost  of  the  expeditions  alone  in  search  of  Franklin  is 
estimated  at  upwards  of  four  millions  of  dollars  :  but 
the  consequences  will  be  permanent ;  and  the  record 
of  enterprising  hardihood,  physical  endurance,  and 
steady  perseverance,  displayed  in  overcoming  elements 
the  most  adverse,  will  long  remain  among  the  worthiest 
memorials  of  human  eflfort. 


'ervice  Jour- 
to  despatch 
of  Sir  John 
iroo  parties : 
ing's  Strait, 
and  Baffin's 

venture  and 
ed  are  alto- 
ary  nature, 
geographer, 
and  science 

have  been 
1  great ;  the 

Franklin  is 
iollars  :  but 

the  record 
irance,  and 
ig  elements 
le  worthiest 


m 


fe  _?.-^ 


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